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You should put some temporary plugs in the through hulls until you get to put her in the water, you can always come back and seal them off later. The locker in the cockpit could be easily done in a weekend to build a box and glass it inside and out, once the wood is sealed you should have a great locker. Keep the videos coming you have a great boat there.
Another Mac back from the brink!! I had an experience pretty close to yours 3 years ago, bought a '94 Mac 26C with a working 9hp motor for 500 bucks (basically free boat and trailer with purchase of motor). The guy had stored it in the woods for 8 years so it was a lovely shade of green and moss. I didn't use so much shoulder work to clean mine, though, just diluted some toilet cleaner and sprayed it on and hit the carwash nearby a few minutes later to reveal a bright shiny boat. I also completely bleached out the interior to kill any living mold and mildew (he hadn't emptied it so that included the cushions too). Water hadn't gotten beyond the bilge, but it's hot and humid down here (Louisiana) and the stuff creeps up anywhere it can sweat. I would check both thru-hulls for leaks and leave them both, and possibly add a second tap for fresh water and use a thru-hull depth/fishfinder in the rear (you'll need depth in the places macs can go that traditional sailboats can't). I converted my head area to a storage bin and just pull out the head (porta-potty) from the floor level if anyone needs to use it. I moved my water supply to the top shelf of the new storage so now it's gravity fed and doesn't have to be pumped. Also, if the yours is like mine, and that cutout opens to the rear birth, a quick/cheap fix to the cutout area is buy a cheap ice chest and cut the top to fit and glass in the edges and run a line from the ice chest drain to the cockpit deck drain tubing; instant cockpit cold drink storage. Another thing, there's three major rubber gaskets that you need to check, you did the one in the front porthole, there's also another one that's supposed to be around the lazarette access door (the lazarette drains into the bilge) and around the inside corner of the pop-top. I had to replace all three of mine. Some more things to point out about about the 26's- 1)MAKE SURE YOU ATTACH THE BALLAST PLUG TO SOMETHING!! That's the single most important thing, really. They're pretty much unsinkable otherwise, and they still may be unsinkable if all the original void foam is in good condition, but why risk it? 2)Paint the bottom. They blister even in fresh water. 3)Buy a couple of wheel chocks if you plan on beaching it. They are very beachable, and with empty ballasts can be hand pulled easily, but aren't stable without chocks of some sort. That's actually how I changed my centerboard, I hooked a rope onto the top of the mast and pulled it on it's side while beached, tied it down and changed it. Much easier than jacking it up 6 feet, and cheaper than paying a boat lift. 4) don't ever try to sail with an empty ballast. Hell, even boarding is a hair treacherous without at least some water in there. All I can say is "you'll see". I've boarded canoes with more side-to-side stability than an empty mac. 5)Noticed you had the 2 wheel trailer, same here. If you haven't taken it over 60 mph on the highway yet, you may want to put a couple of hundred pounds on the front of the trailer. The bow at 60 mph starts to create some pretty spectacular lift.
On the galley water supply situation, I usually rigged them with a second flipper style pump/water outlet on the opposite side of the sink. Seawater on one, potable fresh water on the other. Drinking water only out of one, use seawater for everything else.
There is a fourth option. By 2 part Liquid High Density Foam. You do a guess of the area and measure the foam liquid. When it mixes it GROWS or Expanses and would fill the void
great vids, another subscriber yay... I just finished rebuilding the swing keep on my mac venture 21, you did the right thing by buying one, what a hassle, anyway it's done now... imho remove all below waterline holes in the boat... you can take a water bladder onboard for a weekends supply of fresh water and you shouldn't be draining any used water back into the lake etc.. use a porta potty and empty at home... regarding the cockpit locker, get some marine ply and glass in a box with a vent out top... don't forget that if you put a fuel tank in there then it needs venting outside otherwise you risks the fumes entering your cabin and booooooom... looks like a great boat, you and your family have some great times coming up, how are the sails???
Thank you for the comment! Once the new daggerboard arrived (video coming soon!) i knew i made the right decisions, i couldn't have come close to making one as durable and with the correct foil shape. Like i said in the video, when the boat is a freebie, spending a little $ on something like that to save a major headache is well worth it. I just started the cockpit laz, and might have come up with a unique solution, hopefully it works, stay tuned for that one too. Thanks again for your comment and support!
If it's just a weekend boat, you don't need any through hulls at all. Just use a port a pottie and jugs of water. In most areas you can't dump untreated water overboard anyway
I had a 1987 same boat from the Seattle Boat show. Only difference was had a blue strip. It was a great boat and sailed it about 10 years with no problems. Even in high winds it did great. The first time I saw the whole front of the boat get submerged under water I panicked a bit, but it did great. I loved that boat! I too had to do many of the same things you are doing as well. Scrub brush worked great for mine. I got mine from the original owner who got it at the boat show.
+1 for temporary through hull plugs, particularly the speed transducer. Wait until you have hooked up the electrics and tested the knot meter. It's true that a GPS unit will give you speed over the ground but a knot meter is a big help in fine tuning sail trim and managing the effect of tides and currents on your progress.
Old Matelots thanks for the tips! That knot meter is in pretty rough shape and I would love to make use of of that paddle wheel transducer but I cannot seem to find an analog replacement anywhere? Everything seems to be digital and using gps. Even the west marine website didn't have anything. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places.
Im not a super smart boat guy but i would try to keep as much analog/mechanical stuff as you can. If you loose signal or battery/electric power for some reason it would be nice to still have working equipment.
There should be an o-ring on the plug for the knot meter. If it is still soft and flexible, you can use the plug. They are made to be water tight. You do not need to glass over that hole in your boat. However, the galley opening is very dangerous. That plastic looking pipe that sends raw water to the sink can be easily damaged by something in that galley locker; and if it does there is no shut-off. This is why most boats have sea-cocks for underwater fittings. PLEASE do not take your family out without fixing that issue! Best of luck. Sounds like a great way to get started!
Thanks for the tips Johnny. The o ring on the plug is in good shape, should be ok. the plastic you mentioned is PVC, its pretty strong, but sea-cocks will definitely be on my list.
The hatch as you call it is named a lazerette....I would box it with fiberglass and use it for ...life jackets, rope line, spare anchor, and fenders.....I would also make a new dagger board of fiberglass with the formed lead weights at the bottom.
You can use a pressure washer to completely wash the inside of your boat especially inside those lockers to clean them, then pump out the water with a portable pump as much as possible. Dry with sponge and towels.Open up the boat on hot summer days and use a fan to circulate the air to get the boat dry.
That would be easy to glass close. Was some of the foam removed from the bow area? It is all supposed to be there to provide positive buoyancy in the even of a capsize etc.
Mastiff Comms there is still a lot of foam under the v berth and a few other areas. The PO might have removed some. I have read mixed thoughts on the foam though. Some say it's just a marketing gimmick and the space is better if used creatively, others think it is necessary and shouldn't be removed. Right now though (while on dry land!) it is personally annoying me because there little foam balls all over the place that seem to reproduce before I can vacuum them all up! Also I think I have come up with a good solution for the cock pit, stay tuned.
Your gps would give speed over ground, the paddle wheel will give you speed over water so unless you're interested in currents the gps will serve fine. Paddle wheels, break foul and are inaccurate.
i would suggest you close and glass over all the true holes on the boat as you dont plan to use them maibe tape the hole loosely up on the outside brush the holes full with celcoat and fill with resin and a piece of fiberglass matting from the inside keeping the celcoat in place , if there arent any airbubbles in the celcoat and you get the right colour you might be able to flatten en polish the repair on the outside untill nothing shows and doesnt need paint i would make a thick walled fiberglass box to fit and totaly glass it into the underside of the seats so no water can get inside for the lid outside and keep the floor of the box level with or above the underside of the lid so any water just flows out over the edge then refoam everything under there for extra strength maibe you can make the box a little longer beyond the lid so you you can store a 5 hp outboard or fishingrods inside it the daggerboard you can make youreself with some elbowgrease and little cash outlay out of layers of 1/2 inch marine ply (make the bottom part hollow for the weight ) cut it intoo a plank of the size you need then shape it with an electric planer , angle grinder holding a flapperdisk and rasps , you need the rough undersized shape then fiberglass it all over then fineshape it to fit or build it like a surfboard with a foam core and carbon fiber stringers wish prolly is faster though will shatter when hitting bottom you could make a cardboard template from the space the daggerboard goes intoo
watahyahknow lots to think about for sure! I'm still undecided about the thru hulls, I may use them after all. The raw water under the galley actually looks really well sealed from the outside.
I'd suggest you purchase a new transducer. I put the Triton2 trial-transducer from B&G which gives you speed, depth and water temperature in one transducer. You can get the wind kit (which will come in very handle when sailing) and you'll have it in one unit for the readings. Very powerful, power effective piece of kit which will help you avoid running aground (depth) or damaging your mast/sails by knowing the wind you're working with (true & apparent). worth the bucks. Under the sink, you'll notice the pipe which should end above the waterline. this should avoid water coming in unless wanted. This is used for washing dishes and then you use a fresh water rinse. The other tap would be your fresh water for drinking. I'd suggest a new through hull and adding a seacock to be able to close it when not in use or in rough seas or healed. New through hulls and sea-cocks should be replaced throughout the vessel (drains included). you won't have much space for a fresh water tank so add an extra tap from a fresh water tank - you'll save fresh water when out for several days on the lake or sea and be able to wash without stressing about the autonomy of your resources (water in this case). Keep the hatch - just make it water tight from rain & waves. You always need space for storage on that kind of boat.
I can't tell you if it will fit or if you'll have to fill or cut, but I use it in the North Atlantic and thus far, I'm very happy with it. I have it connected with my Zeus2 MFD and AIS so I squeeze a lot more out of it including showing AIS targets, etc. Bright display works really well too, even on sunny days. Well worth it I think. NMEA2000 so you can always grow your network and devices if you chose to.
I looked into the whole NMEA thing and got a little confused, it seems like its cool as hell though? can you explain it further in layman terms? is it just one display with a universal input for anything you want to add on?
Basically it's a computer network type of thing. like a water mains that your instruments tap into, the NMEA 2000 works off a backbone (mains) structure which includes power. the NMEA2000 is the most modern or adaptable and all good manufacturers use this protocol. You also have older protocols (NMEA 0183) or proprietary ones such as SIMNET. If you have an old VHF with DSC (very recommended) that will probably take it's GPS data from the network or MFD so you need to know what you have if you intent to grow your network. So the recommended Triton2 I recommended is NMEA2000 . For the moment, you'll just need the cable for the sensors you install. When you get a GPS or plotter, make sure it is NMEA2000 compatible and the instruments can share sensor data and you get a lot more out of your investment. Good luck!
To me the dagger board is no big deal. You can make another from wood and glass over it. You could probably make a far nicer one than it came with. On that 1st compartment I would again use wood and glass over AND put in a drain line. You need a speed over water reading to gauge the current speeds you will be dealing with. The through hull for the sink needs a cut off valve installed into it. I would install a cut off valve and decide later what to do with it. I would not glass over it though because in all likelihood you will be using that for something at a later date.
Your going to have to learn how to make things such as the dagger bored and you can run Elc wire to change out to L.E.Ds lighting. Save's big bucks also up great on your fuel tanks and water tanks I know you can do it.
That sink through hull looks like something he made from a hardware store . Lose it , or if you want it replace it with a proper one with a shut off from a marine supply store .
+Bill Connolly lol yes it's all going back in. Most of it will be re-finished, painted etc before going back in. I wanted to rip it all out and have a clean slate and plenty of room to start the refit with. Don't worry it will definitely become a family boat again.
Subscribed! Really looking forward to more vids, please keep them coming! By the way, did you get any interior fittings with it, or were they in really bad shape? Looking forward to the interior fit-out.
Welcome to the sailing community! Be very careful about how you deal with those thru hulls. That is how most boats sink, is a failed thru hull. All thru hulls should have some kind of shut off valve and I can't stress this enough PVC is not an apropriate material for anything below the water line, I wouldn't use it on anything going through the hull of my boat. Check out these. www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=forespar-marelon-93-series-ball-valve-mushroom-thru-hull-fitting-3-4inch&path=-1|51|2234277|2234282&id=199316 The appropriate materials for thru hulls and valves is, Bronze (not Brass), Stainless Steel or Marelon. One thing to remember is Sailboats lean! What is normally well above the water line on a calm day can be well below the waterline on a windy day, we aren't joking when we say were washing the decks.
Going Looping it's definitely on my radar and one of the biggest things keeping me from the water right now. Just gotta come up with the right plan and save up my allowance to do it right.
Well it looks like your on the right track. Watch some youtube videos on tuning your rig (standing rigging) Also you might take your old sails by a sail loft and have them looked over for rotten stitching or rips. The checkout and minor repairs are usually under $100.
how did you get the boat free and how can i get one i dont mind the work of fixing it up. and id live on it if it is bog enough. please give me some hints or info. thankyou very much
a boat is like a big hole in the garden, in which you keep throwing money in!. its a money pitt, better to rent a boat for a day or a weekend!. 13:48 thank you for that, my ear docter apreciates the business you bring him!.
Even if you use the through hulls I would replace the hardware back to a new ball valve entirely....they are statistically the largest percentile villain of of boat sinking
I think i would have tried to make a dagger board first,if it did not work out whats lost?glass up all un needed holes,happy safe sailing lies ahead..good luck 2 ya
Unfortunately I do not have the resources/ tools to make one properly. So I would end up paying just as much to build one and screw it up as I would for a brand new fiberglass one that I know will fit and perform properly. With the boat being free, spending a little money to save a bunch of time and a giant headache is well worth it to me. Thanks for your comment, I really love all the input I can get.
I have turned down 3 free boats so far. One was 36' and actually looked good, but HUNTER. I like Pearson, Bristol, and Cape Dory, but will consider others, especially Swedish boats. But, absolutely NO HUNTERS.
Put seacocks on all thru hull fittings, That under sink one is asking for trouble! A seacock with a cap is 100% and you can decide what to use it for later. That dagger board looks like a cheap job. Shocking! It needs to be Teak or Aluminium or Fibreglass/Carbon fibre. The loads on it are immense! Also check the area where the dagger board box joins the hull, look for cracking etc. You may need to reinforce this area and fair it back into the hull thickness. Just think ' would I trust my life to this?'
Overall our 1969 39ft Pearson has cost us about 15,000 so far. Including the 7,500 we paid for the boat and the dingy. It's all worth it though for this lifestyle! Check out our videos too if you'd like , Episode 2 shows our refitting and even though after 8 years she sat in water, when we finally pulled her out of the water in Episode 4 she didn't even have a single blister! ruclips.net/video/bqxyZAEbnMs/видео.html
Sorry for not responding sooner! This comment was apparently stuck in my "likely spam" tab!!! (maybe because of the links??) But thanks for commenting and I'll definitely go over to your channel right now!!
Daggerboard is no big deal. just make a new one. Keep the hatch and seal up the interior with fiberglass tabbing and install a drain into the cockpit. don't fool around, replace all through hulls. Seal up the speed sensor through hull, your not racing, you don't need it.
i did decide to keep the through hulls, replaced the raw water with something pretty awesome, may use it down the road, but will just keep the valve closed for the time being (can even be locked closed for extra security) and I would like to know my speed still so I know I have proper sail trim, racing or not I would like to be using the wind as efficiently as possible. Thanks for your comments!
I know it would be a shame to get a boat and never take it out. But, restoring an old sailboat would rock. Though I would most likely never get to take her out. It still would be fun to make her shine.
I think from what i have found out you dont want run your head out ,you need a black water tank, as far as getting water flush it thats works saves on fresh water use,
Yea that was my first thought, raw water to flush into a holding tank somewhere to save on the fresh stuff. another viewer also suggested just having to faucets at the sink, one for raw for doing dishes and stuff and another for fresh for drinking... we'll see what happens.
+prayfawind when you do meet someone with a boat, you will be the 136,873,900 person to say that to them and they will probably want to slap you. Your much better off just saying something along the lines of "hey nice boat!" It could save you from getting slapped 😉
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What happened to you? No more sailing? I am missing your videos
You should put some temporary plugs in the through hulls until you get to put her in the water, you can always come back and seal them off later. The locker in the cockpit could be easily done in a weekend to build a box and glass it inside and out, once the wood is sealed you should have a great locker. Keep the videos coming you have a great boat there.
Another Mac back from the brink!! I had an experience pretty close to yours 3 years ago, bought a '94 Mac 26C with a working 9hp motor for 500 bucks (basically free boat and trailer with purchase of motor). The guy had stored it in the woods for 8 years so it was a lovely shade of green and moss. I didn't use so much shoulder work to clean mine, though, just diluted some toilet cleaner and sprayed it on and hit the carwash nearby a few minutes later to reveal a bright shiny boat. I also completely bleached out the interior to kill any living mold and mildew (he hadn't emptied it so that included the cushions too). Water hadn't gotten beyond the bilge, but it's hot and humid down here (Louisiana) and the stuff creeps up anywhere it can sweat.
I would check both thru-hulls for leaks and leave them both, and possibly add a second tap for fresh water and use a thru-hull depth/fishfinder in the rear (you'll need depth in the places macs can go that traditional sailboats can't). I converted my head area to a storage bin and just pull out the head (porta-potty) from the floor level if anyone needs to use it. I moved my water supply to the top shelf of the new storage so now it's gravity fed and doesn't have to be pumped. Also, if the yours is like mine, and that cutout opens to the rear birth, a quick/cheap fix to the cutout area is buy a cheap ice chest and cut the top to fit and glass in the edges and run a line from the ice chest drain to the cockpit deck drain tubing; instant cockpit cold drink storage.
Another thing, there's three major rubber gaskets that you need to check, you did the one in the front porthole, there's also another one that's supposed to be around the lazarette access door (the lazarette drains into the bilge) and around the inside corner of the pop-top. I had to replace all three of mine.
Some more things to point out about about the 26's-
1)MAKE SURE YOU ATTACH THE BALLAST PLUG TO SOMETHING!! That's the single most important thing, really. They're pretty much unsinkable otherwise, and they still may be unsinkable if all the original void foam is in good condition, but why risk it? 2)Paint the bottom. They blister even in fresh water.
3)Buy a couple of wheel chocks if you plan on beaching it. They are very beachable, and with empty ballasts can be hand pulled easily, but aren't stable without chocks of some sort. That's actually how I changed my centerboard, I hooked a rope onto the top of the mast and pulled it on it's side while beached, tied it down and changed it. Much easier than jacking it up 6 feet, and cheaper than paying a boat lift.
4) don't ever try to sail with an empty ballast. Hell, even boarding is a hair treacherous without at least some water in there. All I can say is "you'll see". I've boarded canoes with more side-to-side stability than an empty mac.
5)Noticed you had the 2 wheel trailer, same here. If you haven't taken it over 60 mph on the highway yet, you may want to put a couple of hundred pounds on the front of the trailer. The bow at 60 mph starts to create some pretty spectacular lift.
Also props on the Wicked Salty shout out. Those guys need to get back on the water, asap.
plebiansociety thanks! So much useful information there! Can't wait to get it back in the water!
On the galley water supply situation, I usually rigged them with a second flipper style pump/water outlet on the opposite side of the sink. Seawater on one, potable fresh water on the other. Drinking water only out of one, use seawater for everything else.
I ended up doing something similar except the raw water will actually be accessed in the head.
There is a fourth option. By 2 part Liquid High Density Foam. You do a guess of the area and measure the foam liquid. When it mixes it GROWS or Expanses and would fill the void
great vids, another subscriber yay... I just finished rebuilding the swing keep on my mac venture 21, you did the right thing by buying one, what a hassle, anyway it's done now... imho remove all below waterline holes in the boat... you can take a water bladder onboard for a weekends supply of fresh water and you shouldn't be draining any used water back into the lake etc.. use a porta potty and empty at home... regarding the cockpit locker, get some marine ply and glass in a box with a vent out top... don't forget that if you put a fuel tank in there then it needs venting outside otherwise you risks the fumes entering your cabin and booooooom... looks like a great boat, you and your family have some great times coming up, how are the sails???
keel not keep whoops...lol
Thank you for the comment! Once the new daggerboard arrived (video coming soon!) i knew i made the right decisions, i couldn't have come close to making one as durable and with the correct foil shape. Like i said in the video, when the boat is a freebie, spending a little $ on something like that to save a major headache is well worth it. I just started the cockpit laz, and might have come up with a unique solution, hopefully it works, stay tuned for that one too. Thanks again for your comment and support!
Finally someone tells the truth NOTHING IS FREE. Good work Dude.
If it's just a weekend boat, you don't need any through hulls at all. Just use a port a pottie and jugs of water. In most areas you can't dump untreated water overboard anyway
Muriatic Acid words good on calcium and hard water crust as well. and is safe for fiberglass plastic and metal
I had a 1987 same boat from the Seattle Boat show. Only difference was had a blue strip. It was a great boat and sailed it about 10 years with no problems. Even in high winds it did great. The first time I saw the whole front of the boat get submerged under water I panicked a bit, but it did great. I loved that boat! I too had to do many of the same things you are doing as well. Scrub brush worked great for mine. I got mine from the original owner who got it at the boat show.
That’s awesome Bill! I’m pretty excited, I think I got pretty lucky with this one.
+1 for temporary through hull plugs, particularly the speed transducer. Wait until you have hooked up the electrics and tested the knot meter. It's true that a GPS unit will give you speed over the ground but a knot meter is a big help in fine tuning sail trim and managing the effect of tides and currents on your progress.
Old Matelots thanks for the tips! That knot meter is in pretty rough shape and I would love to make use of of that paddle wheel transducer but I cannot seem to find an analog replacement anywhere? Everything seems to be digital and using gps. Even the west marine website didn't have anything. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places.
Im not a super smart boat guy but i would try to keep as much analog/mechanical stuff as you can. If you loose signal or battery/electric power for some reason it would be nice to still have working equipment.
There should be an o-ring on the plug for the knot meter. If it is still soft and flexible, you can use the plug. They are made to be water tight. You do not need to glass over that hole in your boat. However, the galley opening is very dangerous. That plastic looking pipe that sends raw water to the sink can be easily damaged by something in that galley locker; and if it does there is no shut-off. This is why most boats have sea-cocks for underwater fittings. PLEASE do not take your family out without fixing that issue! Best of luck. Sounds like a great way to get started!
Thanks for the tips Johnny. The o ring on the plug is in good shape, should be ok. the plastic you mentioned is PVC, its pretty strong, but sea-cocks will definitely be on my list.
The hatch as you call it is named a lazerette....I would box it with fiberglass and use it for ...life jackets, rope line, spare anchor, and fenders.....I would also make a new dagger board of fiberglass with the formed lead weights at the bottom.
You can use a pressure washer to completely wash the inside of your boat especially inside those lockers to clean them, then pump out the water with a portable pump as much as possible. Dry with sponge and towels.Open up the boat on hot summer days and use a fan to circulate the air to get the boat dry.
before you glass over your thru hull fitting make sure you know which ones are for filling/draining ballast tanks these boats use water ballast.
Old saying: "There is nothing more expensive than a free boat."
Sell the mast, sink the boat. Boom profit :D
B.O.A.T stands for Break out another thousand
@@dejayrezme8617 sell the lead
@@keeganvanhoven7226 Buoyancy Operated Aquatic Transport BO-AT
Reuse the one thru hull for your head, install a foot pump for your water whale gusher tiptoe mk4 Ebay about $60
That would be easy to glass close. Was some of the foam removed from the bow area? It is all supposed to be there to provide positive buoyancy in the even of a capsize etc.
Mastiff Comms there is still a lot of foam under the v berth and a few other areas. The PO might have removed some. I have read mixed thoughts on the foam though. Some say it's just a marketing gimmick and the space is better if used creatively, others think it is necessary and shouldn't be removed. Right now though (while on dry land!) it is personally annoying me because there little foam balls all over the place that seem to reproduce before I can vacuum them all up! Also I think I have come up with a good solution for the cock pit, stay tuned.
I would play it safe and seal up all through hull protrusions that previous owner put in. any factory ones I would replace.
Your gps would give speed over ground, the paddle wheel will give you speed over water so unless you're interested in currents the gps will serve fine. Paddle wheels, break foul and are inaccurate.
Right on Dennis
i would suggest you close and glass over all the true holes on the boat as you dont plan to use them
maibe tape the hole loosely up on the outside brush the holes full with celcoat and fill with resin and a piece of fiberglass matting from the inside keeping the celcoat in place , if there arent any airbubbles in the celcoat and you get the right colour you might be able to flatten en polish the repair on the outside untill nothing shows and doesnt need paint
i would make a thick walled fiberglass box to fit and totaly glass it into the underside of the seats so no water can get inside for the lid outside and keep the floor of the box level with or above the underside of the lid so any water just flows out over the edge
then refoam everything under there for extra strength
maibe you can make the box a little longer beyond the lid so you you can store a 5 hp outboard or fishingrods inside it
the daggerboard you can make youreself with some elbowgrease and little cash outlay out of layers of 1/2 inch marine ply (make the bottom part hollow for the weight ) cut it intoo a plank of the size you need then shape it with an electric planer , angle grinder holding a flapperdisk and rasps , you need the rough undersized shape then fiberglass it all over then fineshape it to fit or build it like a surfboard with a foam core and carbon fiber stringers wish prolly is faster though will shatter when hitting bottom
you could make a cardboard template from the space the daggerboard goes intoo
watahyahknow lots to think about for sure! I'm still undecided about the thru hulls, I may use them after all. The raw water under the galley actually looks really well sealed from the outside.
Craigslist valdosta. Need free boat. Please contact me e mail. Thanks
I'd suggest you purchase a new transducer. I put the Triton2 trial-transducer from B&G which gives you speed, depth and water temperature in one transducer. You can get the wind kit (which will come in very handle when sailing) and you'll have it in one unit for the readings. Very powerful, power effective piece of kit which will help you avoid running aground (depth) or damaging your mast/sails by knowing the wind you're working with (true & apparent). worth the bucks.
Under the sink, you'll notice the pipe which should end above the waterline. this should avoid water coming in unless wanted. This is used for washing dishes and then you use a fresh water rinse. The other tap would be your fresh water for drinking. I'd suggest a new through hull and adding a seacock to be able to close it when not in use or in rough seas or healed. New through hulls and sea-cocks should be replaced throughout the vessel (drains included). you won't have much space for a fresh water tank so add an extra tap from a fresh water tank - you'll save fresh water when out for several days on the lake or sea and be able to wash without stressing about the autonomy of your resources (water in this case).
Keep the hatch - just make it water tight from rain & waves. You always need space for storage on that kind of boat.
I agree, I was thinking about getting that whole kit and having it all in one unit, I believe the transducer will fit that through hull too.
I can't tell you if it will fit or if you'll have to fill or cut, but I use it in the North Atlantic and thus far, I'm very happy with it. I have it connected with my Zeus2 MFD and AIS so I squeeze a lot more out of it including showing AIS targets, etc. Bright display works really well too, even on sunny days. Well worth it I think. NMEA2000 so you can always grow your network and devices if you chose to.
I looked into the whole NMEA thing and got a little confused, it seems like its cool as hell though? can you explain it further in layman terms? is it just one display with a universal input for anything you want to add on?
Basically it's a computer network type of thing. like a water mains that your instruments tap into, the NMEA 2000 works off a backbone (mains) structure which includes power. the NMEA2000 is the most modern or adaptable and all good manufacturers use this protocol. You also have older protocols (NMEA 0183) or proprietary ones such as SIMNET. If you have an old VHF with DSC (very recommended) that will probably take it's GPS data from the network or MFD so you need to know what you have if you intent to grow your network.
So the recommended Triton2 I recommended is NMEA2000 . For the moment, you'll just need the cable for the sensors you install. When you get a GPS or plotter, make sure it is NMEA2000 compatible and the instruments can share sensor data and you get a lot more out of your investment.
Good luck!
To me the dagger board is no big deal. You can make another from wood and glass over it. You could probably make a far nicer one than it came with. On that 1st compartment I would again use wood and glass over AND put in a drain line. You need a speed over water reading to gauge the current speeds you will be dealing with. The through hull for the sink needs a cut off valve installed into it. I would install a cut off valve and decide later what to do with it. I would not glass over it though because in all likelihood you will be using that for something at a later date.
Those storage areas could also be a Sleeping area
Your going to have to learn how to make things such as the dagger bored and you can run Elc wire to change out to L.E.Ds lighting. Save's big bucks also up great on your fuel tanks and water tanks I know you can do it.
That sink through hull looks like something he made from a hardware store . Lose it , or if you want it replace it with a proper one with a shut off from a marine supply store .
Oh yea, it was pretty scary for sure. Check out my other videos for the episode where I replace it!
Knock a wood plug in the thru hull trim it flush an fiberglass over, doing the same thing to my westerly right now, keep the cockpit locker
All those panels you ripped out? Some of these were what made this boat a family cruiser. Privacy and all that. Any plans for reinstalling?
+Bill Connolly lol yes it's all going back in. Most of it will be re-finished, painted etc before going back in. I wanted to rip it all out and have a clean slate and plenty of room to start the refit with. Don't worry it will definitely become a family boat again.
Subscribed! Really looking forward to more vids, please keep them coming! By the way, did you get any interior fittings with it, or were they in really bad shape? Looking forward to the interior fit-out.
Tony Campbell all the interior stuff was removed and stored in a garage loft the whole time and it's all in great shape!
Welcome to the sailing community! Be very careful about how you deal with those thru hulls. That is how most boats sink, is a failed thru hull. All thru hulls should have some kind of shut off valve and I can't stress this enough PVC is not an apropriate material for anything below the water line, I wouldn't use it on anything going through the hull of my boat. Check out these. www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=forespar-marelon-93-series-ball-valve-mushroom-thru-hull-fitting-3-4inch&path=-1|51|2234277|2234282&id=199316 The appropriate materials for thru hulls and valves is, Bronze (not Brass), Stainless Steel or Marelon. One thing to remember is Sailboats lean! What is normally well above the water line on a calm day can be well below the waterline on a windy day, we aren't joking when we say were washing the decks.
Going Looping it's definitely on my radar and one of the biggest things keeping me from the water right now. Just gotta come up with the right plan and save up my allowance to do it right.
Well it looks like your on the right track. Watch some youtube videos on tuning your rig (standing rigging) Also you might take your old sails by a sail loft and have them looked over for rotten stitching or rips. The checkout and minor repairs are usually under $100.
Is that an old MacGregor Venture?
+Michael Ferguson 1989 26D
@@SailingFreeStyle same boat as mine! Love it. do wish for more room actually. oh well.
how about the engine?
how did you get the boat free and how can i get one i dont mind the work of fixing it up. and id live on it if it is bog enough. please give me some hints or info. thankyou very much
Hey Shane please check out the rest of my channel! The first video is the whole story of how I got this boat for free! Thanks for watching!!
Keep looking at Craigslist, where I got my first boat free.
a boat is like a big hole in the garden, in which you keep throwing money in!.
its a money pitt, better to rent a boat for a day or a weekend!.
13:48 thank you for that, my ear docter apreciates the business you bring him!.
Even if you use the through hulls I would replace the hardware back to a new ball valve entirely....they are statistically the largest percentile villain of of boat sinking
+tazmun check out episode 10! 😉 ruclips.net/video/m1hI4jq-j70/видео.html
I think i would have tried to make a dagger board first,if it did not work out whats lost?glass up all un needed holes,happy safe sailing lies ahead..good luck 2 ya
Unfortunately I do not have the resources/ tools to make one properly. So I would end up paying just as much to build one and screw it up as I would for a brand new fiberglass one that I know will fit and perform properly. With the boat being free, spending a little money to save a bunch of time and a giant headache is well worth it to me. Thanks for your comment, I really love all the input I can get.
My thoughts too. The old daggerboard would have been perfect as a pattern. I hear you though! Good luck. Binge viewing 😳
I have turned down 3 free boats so far. One was 36' and actually looked good, but HUNTER. I like Pearson, Bristol, and Cape Dory, but will consider others, especially Swedish boats. But, absolutely NO HUNTERS.
Put seacocks on all thru hull fittings, That under sink one is asking for trouble! A seacock with a cap is 100% and you can decide what to use it for later.
That dagger board looks like a cheap job. Shocking! It needs to be Teak or Aluminium or Fibreglass/Carbon fibre. The loads on it are immense! Also check the area where the dagger board box joins the hull, look for cracking etc. You may need to reinforce this area and fair it back into the hull thickness. Just think ' would I trust my life to this?'
I did just that! Check out this video here ruclips.net/video/m1hI4jq-j70/видео.html
Overall our 1969 39ft Pearson has cost us about 15,000 so far. Including the 7,500 we paid for the boat and the dingy. It's all worth it though for this lifestyle!
Check out our videos too if you'd like , Episode 2 shows our refitting and even though after 8 years she sat in water, when we finally pulled her out of the water in Episode 4 she didn't even have a single blister!
ruclips.net/video/bqxyZAEbnMs/видео.html
Sorry for not responding sooner! This comment was apparently stuck in my "likely spam" tab!!! (maybe because of the links??) But thanks for commenting and I'll definitely go over to your channel right now!!
Haha yeah I’m not trying to spam you 😂
Daggerboard is no big deal. just make a new one. Keep the hatch and seal up the interior with fiberglass tabbing and install a drain into the cockpit. don't fool around, replace all through hulls. Seal up the speed sensor through hull, your not racing, you don't need it.
i did decide to keep the through hulls, replaced the raw water with something pretty awesome, may use it down the road, but will just keep the valve closed for the time being (can even be locked closed for extra security) and I would like to know my speed still so I know I have proper sail trim, racing or not I would like to be using the wind as efficiently as possible. Thanks for your comments!
I know it would be a shame to get a boat and never take it out. But, restoring an old sailboat would rock. Though I would most likely never get to take her out. It still would be fun to make her shine.
+Darren Watson fix one up and flip it!
Ya know. That's not a bad ideal.
I think from what i have found out you dont want run your head out ,you need a black water tank, as far as getting water flush it thats works saves on fresh water use,
Yea that was my first thought, raw water to flush into a holding tank somewhere to save on the fresh stuff. another viewer also suggested just having to faucets at the sink, one for raw for doing dishes and stuff and another for fresh for drinking... we'll see what happens.
all good stuff ,I am right here with guy hope any help we give helps out ,keep on the path and have fun
you should turn off auto steady cam it warps your video in weird ways
Good tip Ethan.
Fantastic!
Thanks!
Oh Man This video is a while ago.
Can't wait to see her on the water!
+mpenrose thanks for your comment! We're really really close to getting a test sail!
Jomax and bleach, same as Vinal siding
Good idea.
Sailing FreeStyle I live on the gulf and the two are a necessity.
You just scrath the gelcoat using the fiber sponge ....buddy.
Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo 😭
Im subscriber number 15 i cant wait for more videos
FLX SUKI thank you!
from England !!!! good stuff !!!!
a wise old man told me if it fucks , fly's , or floats rent the son of a bitch ,, and he was right !
+John Wells ummmmmmmm ok
You can make a new one
make it yourself material cost would be real cheap. Old One Legged Joseph T.
subbed too mate, best of luck
Thanks so much!
just make a new daggerboard out of marine ply & fiber-glass over it ....no biggie!
B.O.A.T: break out another thousand
+prayfawind you're the first person I've ever heard say that. 🙄
Sailing FreeStyle always wanted to say that but don't know anyone with a boat lolol
+prayfawind when you do meet someone with a boat, you will be the 136,873,900 person to say that to them and they will probably want to slap you. Your much better off just saying something along the lines of "hey nice boat!" It could save you from getting slapped 😉
just glass it
BOAT = Break Out Another Thousand
selfie selfie and selfie
Jesus Peter throw your turtle pool away bro
+Scooter 2kool I did brah! Got a new one! Shit was gross dude.
Sailing FreeStyle ha keep being u man. Like your channel lotta hard work keep it up.
Boats are money pits
I've never heard anybody else say that before!
Sub #80
Thanks so much, I can't believe how many people are watching already!
Love what you doing fro. SOUTH Africa