NEW CUSCO DIFFERENTIALS for the Gymkhana Grid GR Corolla!! (DRIFTING MACHINE)
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- We got new cusco fifferentials for the Gymkhana grid GR Corolla! this new Diffs are gonna make drifting and do donuts so much easier and we are super excited to ge them in the car. We are also getting the cylinder head back from the machine shop as we speak so next weeks video we will have a lot in store so stay tuned!
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You guys are literally the only channel that has dived this deep into a GRC. I'm loving every step of the way, hoping for new subs in the process! Keep up the work man I love this car so much.
Hoping to do mine soon also, love these guys though!
Great job guys. Bulletproofing with some resulting hp gains will be exactly what i will be trying to achieve. So excited for this car
I'm seriously so stoked on your guys' build and it's current progress. LOVE to see this machine getting proper treatment with the main goal being fatty AWD drifts. Big ups y'all 🙌 I'll be watching every step of the way
🙏🙏🙏
Instead of a rear diff oil cooler, to resolve the overheating issue... just replace the diff all together! Brilliant!
I’ve been thinking about that would be an interesting endeavor
It's the temp sensor
@@NemtecRacingi think you are both confused. He thought the issue was the rear limited slip differential, and you were changing it so as to solve the problem... but no, the rear differential is not the center coupling/differential that is heating up. There is three points where power is distributed, and the two ends are being changed out, while the center one is the issue... and nemtec thought that insom was suggesting changing that center differential...
But hey, why not. Change out the center diff to a honda civic unit that's being used to make over 1000whp... but, then you'll have to make sure the syvecs ecu & awd controller is able to handle not having the toyota center diff & sensors.
so I guess this is a good reason to get the core edition rather than the circuit or morizo with the "upgraded" diffs
This install is definitely a pricey option but either way the upgrades stock difs are a must in my opinion
They are building everything to go to over 500whp immediately, and for drifting. The stock diffs will probably hold just fine to 500whp, definitely 400whp. The block does not need the headgasket, the valve guides, and the removal of the head to go over 500whp either, definitely good at 400whp... which therefore also means that you don't need to pull the motor. These guys are going for the amount they needed, they are not going step by step and seeing what's needed at what power level like the guys in Austraila did... therefore, the core is all you need, but with the diffs (performance package). Then, you change the valvesprings, cams, retainers, along with taking apart the timing components and everything under the valve cover. The springs can be changed without removing the head, definitely without removing the engine from the car. Plenty of youtube videos show how to do it. I like the string method. Enjoy.
Nemtec did discover that by changing the rear diff to stronger aftermarket, the rear diff heats up less, which then the rear end is much happier because they share the fluid, and the disconnect of the rear end happens when the fluid is hot. So, for serious tracking of the car, aka race teams, then changing the rear diff to stronger aftermarket is a must. Stock rear [limited slip] diff is fine for the average driver/owner that does occassional track/autocross/canyon carving. I would definitely be fine with the optional [limited slip] diffs in the performance package. Core non-performance diffs, are not limited slip diffs (aka LSDs), they are open diffs.
The work involved with changing a diff in a transmission is a lot of work (remove transmission, open transmission, remove all the shafts w/gears, swap diffs, then reassemble and reinstall trans), better to just get the optional diffs... unless it's too late and you already have a GR Corolla without them.
worth changing the brake lines to SS, some of stock lines have failed on track.
Yeah for sure we are changing them once we install a hand brake
Loving all these videos, makes me want to mod my GRC.
Question: when you guys have it all together, could you do a video with how to change the front diff oil, transmission, transfer case, and rear differential? Would love to see a full walk through of the main drive train fluid swap. Also, what are your go to fluids for that?
For sure we can go through what oil we use!! It is alittle complicated lol. And you definitely can use the wrong oil!!!
Sounds like you need more people, nemtec. How to videos would really make the channel explode, with what you already have.
I'm very jealous seeing all this work, and GRC's all over online, and mine still isn't here yet 😢 On a positive note, I'll have a better idea of what works and what doesn't by the time it finally arrives.
When it arrives and you want to mod it reach out to John on Instagram and he can hook you up!!!
Nice work guys 👌🏾👌🏾
14:04 gunkless threads...key
Bad ass!
Nice insight into how it comes apart. Although not as exciting as a Cusco locking diff, I’ve got a Quaife ATB rear differential I need to install on my GR Yaris. Did you have any problems removing the driveshaft/hub nuts? Seen others with issues stripping the thread on the driveshaft etc.
No it was pretty easy for us!
11:25 Gear/transmission casing to bell housing, not gear casing to transfer case. The transfer case is what sends the power to the rear end.
Did you have to Shim bearings etc. when setting up the rear LSD? Looking to do exact same diff in rear of GR Yaris but can’t find any videos on how to properly fit one and set it up
Cheers 🤘🏽
yes you do have to shim them. kind of hard to explain iver text on how to do it but cusco i believe had a spec sheet with how tight it should be shimmed
This is another great video! Looking forward to the rest. I wonder what it would look like if you had the non torsen diffs and tried to swap in the cuscos? Do you think it would still be "plug and play" with the cuscos?
I believe so. I will do some research and ask around
Honest question, how did you manage to drift this thing without the new diff? Jason Camisa and multiple other media claim it is basically impossible to drift on dry condition
It’s not if you have the sports package from factory that comes with the factory LSDs. I have some videos of drifting mine in the dry
But basically you want to put it in sport mode, then track mode, then traction control off which activates expert mode with no restriction. From there just rip the e brake and gas it
The upgraded diffs from factory help a lot but we drift in any mode in 30:70 dif mode it’s easier to drift but we’ve done it in every mode. You just gotta send it!! It’s all about weight transfer and knowing how to use the weight of the car to get it sideways
You can easily drift this car if you know how to drift. Overcorrect one direction for a flick and send it...LSD doesn't matter
I don't know how to drift. That is not my thing... EVER... but it looks cool on video
Where is the GRC content 😢😢
We have Fall in behind because of availability of parts aswell as we had a race this past weekend that set us back
Hopfully Friday there will be an update
E40, intake and a tune will get you around 335whp with no other mods.
You got proof?
@@NemtecRacingyes tuning is done by Boosted Performance Tuning through Limit+1. Dyno graphs are posted on the Facebook page. A friend of mine made 335whp with their E40 tune and Eventuri intake. No other mods.
Must be that the power is made below 6k rpms, because valve float happens above that with 22-23psi. I'd love to see that also.
JB4 was able to get 317whp using e30, intake, and a tune. If you can get some really light wheels and tires... then, yes, I can see 335whp...
JB4 claims 317whp is 50hp over stock and from just their JB4. That's a stretch, over a stretch, over a stretch. Stock is not 268whp. The car is inconsistent on a dyno, probably due to lack of airflow being on the dyno. 278whp is more realistic (nemtec got 279whp on a cold start). Then, they also had an intake, not just JB4 for the 317whp. Then 317 minus 268 is 49whp gain. So, JB4 actually gave 304whp without the intake. So, 304 minus 279, is 25hp. Wow! Seriously! Not 50!
It's about $700 for the JB4 with the extra amount for wireless smartphone connection. Not bad for 25hp. You can just chuck it when you're done with it, and $700 for 25hp is still worth it... but you can probably sell it in the used market for $500.