Mike - You clever man. I love my Lintons. I'm old enough to have grown-up with wide baffle speakers & adore their sound. I've had the Jansen cap and Mundorf resistor in them for 48hrs. EXCELLENT. Everything you say is bang-on-correct. That is so clever. I am over the moon with your advice.
Hi Mike I have to thank you so much when I brought my Linton's I was disappointed with the sound no dynamics and lifeless top and mid very restrained your upgrade has made these speakers keepers your upgrade has produced an unbelievable transformation in sound which I would have never thought possible the Linton's have now erupted into a raging volcano of sound I am hearing all my CDs as if I had never heard them before, the amount of dynamic's and detail is mind blowing and they just keep getting better. thanks mike form a very happy Linton owner
Hi, thank you for this commentary. Very nice. yes, that is like the Druidic secret knowledge, it works :). Now imagine, I get a DAC or drive in my hands :) :) Have fun with your rocket Lintons and best regards from Germany, Cheers Mike
Hello Mike I upgraded my Lintons 85 and used your capacitor suggested and the Mundorf resistors and now the speakers are opening up. I am very pleased with the Sound. 👍🏻😀
Wow ! Listening to my studio monitors and switching back and forward, the difference in sound is clear. Even to my old ears. Now I am happy I have ordered both the Lintons, and new crossover resistors, caps and inductor s. Thanks a lot for your upgrade videos. I now am looking forward to when my new gear is here, and I can fix them. PS, your gear looks and sounds nice. Would have loved to tried out your large open baffle speakers on my tubes.
Dear Mike, To tell you that I upgraded my Lintons, I have placed the Jantzen Superior Z cap capacitors and the Mundorff Supreme Resistors, the result is magnificent. Thanks a lot!
Thanks Mike It's amazing to change speakers for so little money. They really look like much more vivid upstairs and more open speakers, with much more breadth. I love these Linton. Thank you very much
Mike, don't you have a more complete video about the process of tweaking the Lintons and how to do it, what to do exactly and where on the crossover. Maybe you can have a link to a PDF document made by yourself, a detailed explanation with documented pictures, parts reference etc... This could be a good idea ? ;-)
I Liked my Lintons before. Now I Love them. Again , Thank you Mike for this information. The upper end is much more Hi-end sounding now after the crossover fix.
Hi, Mike. I am very grateful to you. I didn't believe you even when I was changing the parts. I listen to a lot of Latin music, so I wanted to hear percussion sounds, but I was sad that Linton 85 couldn't do that, and I bought other speakers. After changing the parts, Linton 85 is giving me a new sound. Linton 85 is giving me a lot of pleasure now. Thank you very much.
Hi, I just said it at the end of my new video (Talk Talk), you can trust me :) I'm really happy that I was able to help, the Lintons are simply unbelievable for this price with tuning ... cheers Mike
I did the mod and wanted to share my experience. - I replaced the 2 caps as suggested with the blue Jantzen, i repalaced the resistor (the one where the signal comes in, that is the outer one where the two 2,2Ohm resistors are parallel to each other) and i soldered bass and mid driver. - I am not sure if soldering the cables the to drivers makes much difference, i couldn't hear it. - But, replacing the capacitor and possibly the resistor in the tweeter path really changed something. Treble is now clearer, more open, more extended. Before this mod i used an EQ of +2db from 10kHz up "to freshen things up", but i removed this now. Treble sounds improved and better to me now. Thanks to Mike, also the instructions where a bit confusing :-)
I have the Wharfedale Denton 85th and as you mentioned I have the same problem as your Linton's. You said you used to EQ +2 from 10kHz up to make the Treble clearer, more open, more extended. That's what I wanted to hear, especially the extended part. After reading I set my EQ to your specs, turned on some tunes and Wa-La, music to my ears. Thank you.
Hola Mike saludos desde España, por fin realice todas las modificaciones explicadas en tu vídeo y con tu ayuda. Solo puedo decir gracias, es impresionante como mejoraron las Linton, mas abiertas, musicales,con mucha más escena y el tweeter impresionante mucho más detallado, ahora si estoy enamorado de mis cajas, por cierto en la resistencia le puse unas mundorrf supreme. Gracias por tu trabajo un abrazo.
HOLA JUAN SOY DE CHILE Y QUIERO HACER UPGRADE DE MIS LINTON SABRAS CUALES SON LOS CAPS Y RESISTENCIAS QUE DEBO COMPRAR PARA CAMBIAR. GRACIAS POR TU AYUDA. SALUDOS
Hi Mike Thank you for your inspiring Tube I kinda followed your advise - but took it a little further - by replacing a little in the midrange as well - put in a Miflex there also. Linton is now SO much bettter - sound stage WOW . Details - but still very musical. I changed all together 3 resistors and 5 capacitors and added 2 Miflex in each. I can't beleve how much better it is. "out of the box" no burning in... Thank you Henning
Hi Henning, wonderful. Please watch my Surpreme Video too. Dont forget the coils, cheap ones too. I found a way for much better sound by changing the crossover in tweeter section... wow...cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Any more info on these changes? :) Is it possible to get a full guide for what I should do...? Or do I have to look through videos and comments? :) As stated earlier here it is a little bit unclear at times. Anyways - thank you so much for sharing all this info!
I've just finished upgrading the crossover with JANTZEN AUDIO SILVER Z-CAP Capacitor 800V 6.8μF and MOX Mundorf Supreme 20W 2.2 Ohm Metal Oxide resistor. Also soldered all cables directly to speaker drivers. Did both mods separately. Soldering cables brought slight improvement with resolution and dynamics. Definitely worth consideration even without the crossover mod. Crossover upgrade made them sound very neutral and much more detailed, maybe slightly brighter or lighter in middle frequencies. CD quality now sounds closer to what hi-res sounded before. Before the upgrade vocals and solo instruments often sounded too big or too fat, which made soundstage unrealistic. This is now fixed. Everything is more cohesive. Imaging in the center stage is better. It was kind of blurred before as vocals often prevailed in the center. If you don't want to risk a change in sound character, there is slight but for the better, you can try Jantzen Superior caps, which should sound less bright than Silver caps. Don't know the size of cheaper Jantzen caps but Silver are 5x bigger in volume than original caps. A bit of a hassle to make them fit. Couldn't fix them with hot glue as I intended.
Hi, wow very detailed review. Thanks. I can sign everything you write, just a little hint: Intertechnik Audyn Tri Reference with Russian Mica are then the affordable summit! Cheers Mike
Enjoying watching your video from middle USA. I'm glad you speak English, very well. And you are funny. [ there's no music in here, nope!]🎶 I have had my linton's for about 8 weeks. I've been hearing what you described on the upper range. Running a SVS sub along side. I really like them but anxious for the crossover upgrades. All four pieces should be arriving tomorrow. My friend with electronics knowledge is going to solder them in for me and solder the wire directly to the speaker terminal. Will update after the new goodies are installed.
@@gastonguev parts express.com they are in Ohio , U S. A. They have the capacitors , unsure if they have the resistors.
3 года назад
from what i understand the 5W2R2K is a 2.2 ohm resistor with 10 percent error. Therefore it is this one that i change at the end of the signal chain before going to the tweeter inputs.
Hi, who changes in the end something when the beginning sounds bad :) ?? Cheers Mike
3 года назад
@@headquarteraudio5388 always a puzzle and riddle your comments :) . The first resistor in the chain does the damage to the signal. But the value is 0.68 ohms. Can't find one. The new capacitor bumps it. Then the final resistor trims it? The Linton and Denton 85 have the same tweeters
@ Hi, I usually speak plain text, but I already said that I don't know the denton loudspeaker and the crossover, so I can't give any tips. I also don't have the time to devote myself more and more intensively to all tuning requests, there are dozen ... I only give tips that I tried 100% myself and was satisfied ... DIY :) cheers Mike
Jantzen capacitors from their basic line of Cross Cap to the highest ones Amber are not really about to change the sound signature itself, but have been developed on contrary to expand it with lots of detail my friend for sure! ;)
Hi, I don't disagree :), but there is more ... and there is more possible ... I'm already ready to say what I'm always looking for, holographic representation, real overtones that fascinate, hear instruments and voices around. Micro information ... etc. AND easier to follow each rhythmic influence separately, that's easy with the Miflex! Cheers Mike
Hi Mike! Just a few minutes ago I finished a rather big and exhausting job, updating all remaining resistors and capacitors, except 80uF electrolyte and the oblong/flat one bypass under-neath it. It is immediately obvious that this major upgrade I just finished , has brought several new layers of detail and clarity in midrange, and at the same time greatly improved allover "softness" and "silkyness". The harsh sibilant female voices and saxophone phrases are gone now Mike...! UPDATE 210831: No, harsh sibilant voices or instruments are not fully gone, but better. I am more and more thinking that problem is an unwanted midrange driver resonance or other unlucky characteristic. Will likely test that hypothesis by swapping for a traditional coated paper cone mid driver. They are well known to have very effective damping of resonances and a very soft and nice sounding roll off. Like VIFA M13SG or similar STILL the improvement of midrange detail and delicacy, resulting in immensely much better sense of life and presense of voices and instruments, is truly huge and make the upgrade worth every dollar and drop of sweat. Personally I believe removing the 22uF electrolytic in the midrange circuit may have been a major part of this. Also resistors and caps in series in midrange circuite have likely contributed. Danny at GR-Research has many, many years of experience of what component type and quality level of components in speaker crossovers do for sound quality, and says that the slow and unprecise discharge characteristics of electrolyte caps definitively smears detail and degrade soundstage etc. ruclips.net/video/8IQ4t1Y1mxo/видео.html If I had already built my planned new big-size crossover board, and had run it externally, I would have done the resistor and cap upgrades step by step to learn which component that was the biggest bottleneck, but the job is so awkward, and the risk of damaging connect- ions when handling such a big and heavy tweeter cap as the 6.8uF Audyn Tri-Ref, is considerable. Thus, I made all of it at the same time. It really did take some time to do it all also, and I had to do part of it yesterday, and the rest this morning. Anyway, I can hear no obvious negative effects so far, but HUGE midrange improvements , and will now take a good long listen and enjoy my successful job and the effort put int it. Component used in this last big component upgrade: Resistors: Mundordf M-resist Supreme: 2.2Ohm, 6.8Ohm, 47Ohm Caps: Jantzens Standard Z-Cap: 2.2 uF, 8.6uF, 15uF, 18uF, 22uF Cheers, Magnus
Hi Magnus, you did great work, again. Could you please clarify the details of the bypass-cap underneath the 80uF? I think the readings on Mikeˋs handout in his newest video are not correct for those two caps C11 and C12. Thank you very much, Christoph
@@christoph5799 Hi Christoph, and thanks for kind words! I actually never did bend the 80uF loose, and thus never saw the flat bypass cap specifications ( numbers/letters ). I thought that A) The caps for the bass circuite were likely less crucial for what I percieve as most important aspects of sound quality B) The 80uF cap would be a too HUGE and expensive one to replace, when not expecting major benefits. I might have been wrong though..., maybe someone proves that to me soon!
Hi Mike. I just done your crossover tweak and I am happy with the results. Much more details and space, BUT I lost a little forwardness and weight of the midrange. Is there anything more I can do to improve / give more weight to lower mids?
Hi Mike. This is a great upgrade. Same Linton sound signature but improved, more definition in highs and more open. I did your upgrade following your instructions. New Mundorf blue capacitor, Supreme resitor and all welds to all speaker terminals with Mundorf silver material. Do you recommend any other improvements maintaining the same sound signature? I’m very happy with the sound. I’m pairing these speakers with my Naim new 200 series system($27,000) and the sound is great!! Better than my Proacs D20R’s. Very difficult to understand!!!
Hi, I'm glad you like it. The Lintons really need a powerful amp. I've found that if you do more, you unfortunately have to do more and more... because other components can no longer keep up, they are simply overwhelmed. Then you go from puppy to stick, you have to do it like I did, build a whole new crossover. Very expensive and complex, the result is stunning and certainly better than the new big version Devondale. Enjoy your Linton a la Mike/Headquarter Audio... watch may video about laquer of the Linton, and remove the sheet metal protection of the tweeter... :) be careful there ....cheers Mike
Thank you very much Mike. I removed the sheet metal from the tweeters. The complete crossover upgrade is the one you show in the Tuning step 2 video or is a new design? If you have a new design could you show me? I am also interested in the lacquer for the membranes, where I buy it? Again, I am very happy with the upgrade and thank you very much Mike!
Hi can you tell me exactly where you ordered the parts from and how many of each are needed? I just purchased these speakers and am going to have someone perform this upgrade for me. Thank you
Hi. I saw a video and indeed the only way to removed the tweeter is by prising off the plastic surround and the screws are underneath. So it damages the speaker.....shame. The comparison sounds much clearer and more open after the mod. Sometimes it’s hard to tell on RUclips. Would be interested in the information if you can forward to me. Thanks. Tony
Yeah,, maybe it was a deiifernet manufacturer, but it is mox and better is the mudorf surpreme... have fun and tell me please the result... cheers Mike
Mike , Wow Wee ! I'm hearing the more Detailed side of my upper end now. My audio friend just installed them 2 hours ago. I'm having difficulty prying myself away from my speakers now , lol. Thank you for your knowledge. One thing we paused at was , he wasn't sure which " resistor " to remove. He figured out it was the one on the corner , away from the other two close together. I would never have figured that out. Thanks again.
I have Denton 85 and I would like to do same mod for better and detailed High Frequencyes. I am skilled with a soldering iron but I cannot recognize which are the resistor and the capacitor of the treble part. I think that a slightly smaller resistor would be needed because on the Denton 85th the high frequencies are rolled back a bit while maintaining the same crossover cut. I hope can you help me.
For those who have made this mod - do the highs increase to a level that induce listener fatigue? I'm thinking of the B&W sound signature that I can't take for more than a short while. Thanks!
Hi, you can also ask me:) ... the treble is not raised or amplified. The tuning is only expanded in the direction of more open and hearable, there are also more tones, the built-in capacitor costs 30 ct, the Jantzen around 6 €. If you then use the Mundorf Surpreme, you are on the safe side. no fatigueing. But after tuning the speaker is able to show what may not be right in the chain beforehand. B&W is a mainstream sound that should please everyone, real music is that for me not ... oops, please don't beat me ..: ) ... cheers Mike
Емкости проходят современные стадии производства: высокой плотности полипропилен отпаривается в вакуумном беспыльном пространстве, после чего покрывается алюминиево-оловянным сплавом (серебряной пленкой, в зависимости от линейки), затем термически обрабатывается в лабораторных условиях. На наш слух, самые конкурентно способные - это серии MKPA-B, MKPA-S, MKPA-C. Об особенностях звучания MKPA-B и C смотрите в наших других объявлениях. Серия MKPA-S отличается высоким уровнем звучания на всем диапазоне слышимых частот. При использовании на ВЧ полосе - в меру детальны, не спрячут ни одного нюанса в микро и макро динамике. Тембрально ровные, музыкальные, нежные, без грязи и шершавости, раскрывают аудиосигнал чисто и прозрачно, как родниковая вода. На СЧ - создают отличную контрастность вокала и разделение инструментов, хорошее вовлечение в музыкальный материал, на НЧ - точный, густой, фактурный и читаемый бас. Если сравнивать этот конденсатор с европейскими брендами, то такой же детальный как Jantzen Silver Z-cap, но не навязчивый и холодный в верхней границе частот. Такой же пространственный как ClarityCap серии CSA, формирует отличную музыкальную сцену, но не отстраненный. В целом конденсатор наряду с высокой прозрачностью, ясностью и детальностью обладает очень взвешенным и сбалансированным звучанием, что согласуется с его более высокой ценой. Конденсатор представляет собой неиндуктивную структуру, которая изготовлена из вакуумно-серебряной полипропиленовой пленки в виде комбинации диэлектрика и электрода. Электрод выводится серебряной проволокой и герметизируется эпоксидной смолой. Обладает свойством самовосстановления, так как металлизированное алюминиевое покрытие (около 0,03 мкм) очень тонкое и в случае мгновенного максимального заряда или при ударе большим током металлическое покрытие в области нарастания тока короткого замыкания испаряется, образуя область временной изоляции, так что функция емкости может сохраняется неповрежденной и затем восстанавливается.
Yuri Konev Die Behälter durchlaufen moderne Produktionsschritte: Hochdichtes Polypropylen wird im Vakuum, staubfrei gedämpft, anschließend mit einer Aluminium-Zinn-Legierung (Silberfolie, je nach Linie) beschichtet, anschließend im Labor thermisch verarbeitet Bedingungen. In unseren Ohren sind die wettbewerbsfähigsten die Serien MKPA-B, MKPA-S und MKPA-C. Sehen Sie sich unsere anderen Ankündigungen für MKPA-B- und C-Soundfunktionen an. Die MKPA-S-Serie zeichnet sich durch hohe Schallpegel über den gesamten hörbaren Frequenzbereich aus. Beim Einsatz im HF-Band sind sie mäßig detailliert, sie werden keine Nuance in der Mikro- und Makrodynamik verbergen. Klangfarben gleichmäßig, musikalisch, sanft, ohne Schmutz und Rauheit, geben das Audiosignal rein und transparent wie Quellwasser frei. Im Mitteltonbereich - sie erzeugen einen hervorragenden Stimmkontrast und die Trennung von Instrumenten, eine gute Einbindung in das musikalische Material, auf den niedrigen Frequenzen - präziser, dicker, strukturierter und lesbarer Bass. Vergleicht man diesen Kondensator mit europäischen Marken, dann ist er so detailliert wie der Jantzen Silver Z-Cap, aber nicht aufdringlich und kalt an der oberen Frequenzgrenze. So räumlich wie die ClarityCap der CSA-Serie, prägt sie eine großartige Musikszene, aber nicht distanziert. Generell hat der Kondensator neben hoher Transparenz, Klarheit und Detailtreue einen sehr ausgewogenen und ausgewogenen Klang, was seinem höheren Preis entspricht. Der Kondensator ist eine nicht-induktive Struktur aus vakuumsilberner Polypropylenfolie in Form einer Kombination aus Dielektrikum und Elektrode. Die Elektrode wird mit einem Silberdraht herausgeführt und mit Epoxid versiegelt. Besitzt die Eigenschaft der Selbstheilung, da die metallisierte Aluminiumbeschichtung (ca. 0,03 µm) sehr dünn ist und bei einer sofortigen Maximalladung oder bei einem hohen Stromstoß die Metallbeschichtung im Bereich des Anstiegs des Kurzschlussstrom verdampft und bildet einen temporären Isolationsbereich, so dass die Kapazitätsfunktion intakt erhalten und dann wiederhergestellt werden kann.Yuri Konev The containers go through modern stages of production: high-density polypropylene is steamed in a vacuum, dust-free space, after which it is coated with an aluminum-tin alloy (silver film, depending on the line), then thermally processed in laboratory conditions. To our ears, the most competitive ones are the MKPA-B, MKPA-S, MKPA-C series. See our other announcements for MKPA-B and C sound features. The MKPA-S series features high sound levels across the entire audible frequency range. When used in the HF band, they are moderately detailed, they will not hide a single nuance in the micro and macro dynamics. Timbre even, musical, gentle, without dirt and roughness, reveal the audio signal purely and transparently, like spring water. On the midrange - they create excellent vocal contrast and separation of instruments, good involvement in musical material, on the low frequency - accurate, thick, textured and readable bass. If we compare this capacitor with European brands, then it is as detailed as the Jantzen Silver Z-cap, but not intrusive and cold at the upper frequency limit. As spatial as the CSA Series ClarityCap, shapes a great music scene, but not detached. In general, the condenser, along with high transparency, clarity and detail, has a very balanced and balanced sound, which is consistent with its higher price. The capacitor is a non-inductive structure made of vacuum-silver polypropylene film in the form of a combination of a dielectric and an electrode. The electrode is led out with a silver wire and sealed with epoxy. Possesses the property of self-healing, since the metallized aluminum coating (about 0.03 μm) is very thin and in the case of an instant maximum charge or in case of a high current shock, the metal coating in the region of the rise of the short-circuit current evaporates, forming a temporary isolation area, so that the capacitance function can be preserved intact and then restored.😅
Привет, пожалуйста, назовите компанию / производителя, о котором вы пишете. Вы можете связаться с Headquateraudio.de для проверки конденсаторов. (Пожалуйста, используйте только все, что лучше или эквивалентно Miflex, или то, что кажется более подходящим по цене в других позициях.) С уважением, Майк.
@@headquarteraudio5388 I though you sold the finished product. Do you explain the upgrade in detail and do you have one for the evo 4.2? I have that speaker.
Great video and advice. Do you have any recommendations for how to open up the higher frequencies (top end) of the Wharfedale Denton 80th Anniversary speakers? Sonically part of the same anniversary line as the Lintons, but smaller bookshelf speakers.
Greetings…can I do this to the Wharfedale diamond 10.7 ? I changed all the capacitors with parts express caps ,but not the resistors The diamond has two capacitors for the tweeters 12uf and 6uf for the midrange . Do I change the resistor for both? Or just the tweeter? I don’t like the brick resistors…
Okay I did it. The Lintons sound awesome now. I can't believe how much better ,lol , I'm glad I saw Mike's video. Now I feel the music . 😊😊😊 All that sound that was in Capacitor Hell 👿 BUT ,Now it's Free🐎🎹 . Those somewhat grainy highs are much nicer now, yes. The capacitor being replaced is the one by itself, away from the 2 together. I believe that's right. I also put dampening putty on the backs of the speakers.
So is it the resistor next to "HF-" markings on board (also close to round coil) at 10:57 time (bottom left)? I though was the one of the two on top left from previous answers? :S
Im curious have you tried a mix of jantzen standard z and clarity cap csa in the tweeter section? I find the standard z to be detailed in higher frequency but a tad harsh compared ro the csa which is warmer and abit more mid centric to my ears. For this reason i think they will compliment each other nicely. Perhaps even add both and a cde 940c 0.01uf 3000v as a bypass to meld them nicely. Thoughts?
Hi, no.😁 Except that I tried the caps you mentioned and after the burn in time they didn't stand a chance against the combination I suggested. The CMR (one of my favorite caps) is much better, but also expensive...cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Yes, I read all the comments but, believe it or not, I still didn't understand it. So it's the one in the upper left corner. Got it now. Thanks! I now have to order the parts and find someone who can solder them because I have zero experience. I'm currently using Equalizer APO (a program that works at driver level) to slightly (!) enhance the upper mid-range which to my ears is the biggest flaw of the Lintons. Measurements show frequency roll-off already starts at 6K, which is very bad for 'presence' and 'snap', especially noticeable on drums and percussion. Hopefully the tweak has an effect on the upper mid-range/lower treble as well.
Can you show us finnished crossover after changing parts you passed away the most important bit there mate coz you showed us couple of parts than on the pictures you replaced 5 parts on each crossover kind of confusing you know. I know this subject is out of date but people still checking your videos to do upgrades today. Please be more specific For example where did you attached the KPCU01H410J - Kupferfolie Papier 0,1uF 600VDC 5% 24x50mm make another video and show us finnished cross over please Mike. Thank you in advance 😊
Hi, I found a Mundorf MResist MOX 10W 2% Resistors, is the same that you use? and the Jantzen capacitor that I found is 6.8uF 400V Z-Standard Capacitor, is correct?
hab zum entfernen des bleches vom hochtöner das dünne blech von einem heftstreifen genommen, also das mit den 2 löchern drin. das unten beim hochtöner blech in den schmalen schlitz zwischen holz und blecht schieben. aber nur so 1 - 2mm und nach unten drücken. dadurch lässt sich das blech vom hochtöner raus hebeln sozusagen. so an verschiedenen stellen rings um das blech vorgehen denn sollte es langsam raus kommen. das blech an sich ist nur mit 4 stiften im gehäuse befestigt, am gehäuse sind gummimuffen die denn das blech halten.
Before making any changes, did you check if that each of the speakers are on the proper side. The tweeters must be inside. They are not centered as you see. That make a big difference in sound. With the tweeters on the inside, the sound become a lot more focused with more prominent treble and quite a bit less midrange and bass.
Moin Maik, ich liebäugel schon länger mit dem Lintons. Nun ist es bei mir leider nicht so gut möglich sie weit weg von der Wand zu stellen. Daher hab ich überlegt die Bassreflex Rohre auf die Unterseite zu verlegen. Die Frequenzweiche würde dann an die Seite wandern. Denkst du das funktioniert ohne Einbußen? Grüße nach Köln.
Hi, wenn du nicht das entsprechende Messequipment hast, wird es schwer. Auch der Abstand zum Ständer oder Boden ist das eine Varaible, puh, ehrlich..nicht nicht gemacht...Weiche auf jeden Fall extern, auch klingen die Lintons wandnah nicht schlecht, da zählen andere Dinge mehr... cheers Mike
Hi Just Purchased a Pair of Wharfedale Linton 2 Speakers as a Do Upper Project,And Wanted to Replace the Capacitors in them,I'm not sure what Capacitors to replace them with, here is the old caps that were in the speakers maybe you could tell me what to replace them with.....el cap 10 mfd 50v and 25 mfd 50v ...Something not to expensive as im a Beginner and its my firs project.Your help would be very grateful. Thank you.
Hi, in this high value ranger i prefer the blue Jantzen standard zCaps ( not so big ), or, if you want it cheaper the Cross Caps ( mutiple in parallel is a way to added with a good cap like Miflex to reach the exact value ) try it out 😀... Cheers Mike
Hi, ok ok, i will say it... :) sure, you see the parts of connectors, i cut it all away and soldered it directly to the speakers but!!! NOT to the cable tongue, but direct to the soldering point of speakerwire!! Soldering must be fast, not to hot. Cheers Mike
Hello Mike, I have done mods from your video and I am very pleased with the sound. It certainly makes the improvments that you say it does. I found an easy way to remove the tweeter covers without damage.Use a stanley knife blade! My only problem is removing the nasty connectors from the tweeter I’m worried about damaging the tweeter connections themselves because the connectors are very tight, any ideas? Many thanks from an Englishman living in Spain.
Hi David, nice that you hear it as much as I do. These male connectors on the speakers are prohibited. I rarely get upset;), but solving them alone is punishable and then they punish the ear. You can bend them up with wire cutters, or you lift the tabs up with a small screwdriver. Or just hold the fastening point with the screwdriver and pull, all your risk :) :) good luck, Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Thanks Mike, Ive soldered the tweeters now and the results are fantastic.There is no grain at all in the music and pianos sound lovely.Thanks again.
Hi, Mike, I want to upgrade my Soundartist ls3/5a speaker crossover. So I disassembled the speaker and took a photo, The parts looks cheap. But I don't know how to start. Could you give me your advice?
Hi great videos, just was confused when I took a look at the Caps they put in parallel. For example the 68uf/50V with the 18uF/250V on the woofer. Same thing on the mid (8,2uf + 22uf) and tweeter (6,8 + 0,68). Do you know why they do this? And can I replace those two by a higher quality cap with the value of the sum of those two? With Bypass caps I usally thought they use something like a 0,1uf. Also I thought putting different caps in parallel introduces phase shift.
Hi, if you do that the tweeter will play louder, not brighter and it will be damaged uf you play loud. Change tje blue cap as shown and you will have more details, change the resistors to Mundorf Surpreme... cheers Mike
Schönes Video, ich habe die Diamond 11 und finde den Hochton zu bedämpft. Es kling im Vergleich zu meinen sonance so als ob sie hinter einem dicken Vorhang stehen. Hast du einen Tipp für mich?
Hi, klar, caps tauschen wenigstens auf Jantzen blue Standard Zcap, HT bypass mit 0,1 Miflex wie im Video beschrieben. Die Kabel entdämpfen, die Weiche auf Holzklötze montieren, Schaumstoff darunter entfernen... leider verwendet WD immer die selben mittelklasse Bauteile, der Hochtonkond. ist aber unterdurchschnittlich. Gerne mehr per Mail mit Bildern der Weiche...und Schaltplan, leider nix auf die Schnelle zu finden...auch kein gutes Zeichen...cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 ich schicke dir gerne eine Mail mit Bildern der Weiche, habe auch von der kleineren 11.0 (ich habe die 11.3) und entsprechenden Upgrades. Denke aber, dass diese sich nicht unterscheiden. Komme aus Herne 😃 danke dir schon mal
Hi Mike! do you think that my linton s 85th would have that much difference in dynamics and oppenedness with a mcintosh ma 252,ps im quite hesitant to work on the speaker but if as they all say have a big difference i would do it, i know how to solder, also should i use a special kind of solder thanks!!
Hi, use silver solder and believe me, you will be surprised hiw good the Lintons will play after tuning. Read comments for more informations cheers and have fun Mike
Hi, es geht um die Beseitigung des Problems des Lautsprechers. Und das Problem ist dieser Dreckskondensator in Weiss, die Gelben sind erstaunlich gut. Mehr machen kann man immer... :) ZB mit den neueren Rike QCap 3 :), schlimm ist der 22er Elko... cheers Mike
Good morning. At about 11 minutes ... you can see the two crossovers ... pre and post modification ... but I can't see where she removed that white block in the upgrade version from. Both in the first image and in the second there are always 6 white blocks, so I ask, has it been replaced or eliminated completely? thank you
Thank you very much, this video is very useful. I'd like to buy some Wharfedale Evo 4.4, but I've seen they have high harmonic distortion (also the Lintons). Do you think this or other changes can improve it? If you want I can send you the link with the measurements and the crossover pic
@@Jack181996 Hi, Jantzen Superior ZCap is for me the Eierlegendewollmilchsau.. ( you can use it everywhere :) ), others like silver or amber must match with your rig... cheers Mike
Could you tell me how many resistors did you change on the crossover ? What is the power of these Mundorf resistors ? 5w or 10w ? How many resistors for each crossover and I think only one Jentzen Audio cap per crossover.
Hi! A quick question. If I replace the bass coil of 2.4 mH with a 2.5 mH It will impact a lot the sound? It is ok or maybe not? For a 2.5 mH air coil to reach 2.4 how much of the wire should be taken off maybe somewhat around half a turn?
Hi, other coil other sound... buy a measuring device and make it exact..if you will hear the difference 2,5 to 2,4 maybe with different resistance of the coils?? Maybe with much expirience or check by 🙃Measurement...The danger is that by exchanging all coils and capacitors you will move away from the original sound through interactions and only poke around in nirvana ...cheers Mike
www.amazon.de/Kapazit%C3%A4t-Induktivit%C3%A4t-Widerstand-Batterie-Krokodilklemme/dp/B07DW4RNYR/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=lcr+meter&qid=1639660336&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFWNzRKV0JCVlI4SEwmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwNTI5NTUySUhaR0o0Nk9DNEwxJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5NzM5NjIzOFFCQVdZR1ZSSUc0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== or better :)
@@headquarteraudio5388 Still waiting for the coils to arrive this days, I purchased an cheap tester that can do also inductance. Beside that I want to share my bad experience with lintons after I upgraded the crossovers. It seems that the manufacturing design for the tweeters it is really poor and with sloppy QC. After upgrading the crossovers this could be a problem because it is going to be revealed. The tweeter has the diaphragm centered only by two protrusions on the magnet that match 2 holes on the plastic ring with the 2 ears that keep the contacts and the diaphragm itself. The holes not match perfectly the protrusions and the diaphragm will wave a lose play of almost an mm...then never will be perfectly centered on magnet.After upgrading the crossovers and opened the highs when testing each speakers individually noticed that one of them has much lower highs and also less resolutions. The first reaction was that I have done something wrong with the crossovers but quickly excluded all the reasons that could be wrong and also moved the tweeter between speakers and the problem moved with it...clear different performance from the bad one. Inspected it close and noticed that the screws that centered that plastic ring over diaphragm where inegal screwed and after taking apart noticed that even the diaphragm coil was glued crocked and has manufacturing defects. After speaking with the store from which I purchased them...even if already I invalidated the warranty they sent me a new tweeter ...a denton one...they should be in fact identical the same tweeter same model number...in linton also on the back of the tweeter is written denton...only difference is the contact ears they are same width ...the thinner one. Was happy that finally I will resolve the problem of bad linton tweeter but when it arrived and installed...I instantly drop face...the tweeter sounded almost the same as the bad one replaced :(. After different try with the same result , because noticed some different markings on the magnets between the 2 of them as a last resort I switched the more good diaphragm from the new denton one to the magnet of older one...and voila ...this was it ...now match the other one. Then as a warning modding the crossover to better one could reveal the quality of tweeters that are not so great as manufacturing and QC.
@@Sorin_F Hi, unfortunately you mix something up here. You had a tweeter that was defective, it was replaced for you. (I would have found it better if you would have been given 2 pieces) Now you have mixed new and old ... well, I would not have done that, not even a magnet swap. But that has nothing to do with the crossover, since this tuning is intended for functioning tweeters / loudspeakers and makes it sound much better. Greetings and have fun on your further tuning path, Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 The other one it was not old had only 3 weeks. The speakers are new purchased. What I want to underline is that we should pay more attention on the linton tweeters, because it seems that they are not so carefully done and had some large sound variations. Because, this upgrading crossovers could more easily and abruptly reveal this flaws that could be not so evident with less revealing crossovers. Now I am content with them after switching the magnets they sound pretty much the same matching the quality of the better one.
Hi Mike or anyone watching this thread. Do you happen to know the value of the other resisters on the crossover boards? I believe they are the next worst parts. When I finally modify my speakers I may change them as well if I have the parts. Thanks for any help. Mike G.
Mike my dear, I’ve found the songs you list down the description but do not match the music you’re playing …. Can you tell me what was the last song I really love it!
Hi honey, all song are from this cd.. www.amazon.de/-/en/Bill-Bourne/dp/B0009WFSXS/ref=sr_1_11?crid=38D664S84GQ6W&keywords=eivor&qid=1642802648&sprefix=eivor%2Caps%2C74&sr=8-11 Last song is song number one of the album :) ( the list is from youtube ) Cheers Mike
Hi everyone and thanks to Mike. I recently got lintons and I really like them (I used to have Denton 85s). I turn to those who have made the ugrade to the crossover because, soon, I would like to do it too, but I have a fear: I hate sibilant tweeters (I like the lintons precisely for the "sweet" tweeter), I would not want to change them at the crossover it made the tweeter harsh and sibilant (especially with vocals). Can you tell me something to dispel my doubts? Thanks
Hi, I hate that too, so don't worry ... but I have to tell you that mostly the tweeter reacts to inconsistencies in the system ... also a sign that the system is starving for power ...: ) ... more by mail or phone..cheers Mike
Hi, I'm dreaming about it... 😀no, it's all good, I enjoy it, only some of them get too personal, I sometimes lose my joy... (tuning videos for the Ares II) I'm still holding on... Thank you Cheers Mike
Hi, bitte lies die Videobeschreibung und sieh dir auch die weiteren Videos an. Wichtige Zusatzinfos findest du in den Kommentaren aller Videos cheers Mike Hola, lea la descripción del video y también vea los otros videos. Puedes encontrar información adicional importante en los comentarios de todos los videos saludos Mike
Whatever is changed inside the speaker regarding the crossover, you will be literally changing the end result of the speakers...there are no problems if you change the speakers as long as it’s for the “better”...
Hi, ohoh, but my experiences are different ... there are extreme sound differences with the same values but different manufacturers, and not every better (more expensive) component also sounds better, believe me, I have a box full of components worth thousands . :) Cheers Mike
guten Morgen Mike ich habe dich gerade entdeckt. Bitte empfiehlst du mir die Lin ton als gut Lautsprechern für jazz Klassik Music ,meine Wohnzimmer ist 30 m Quadrat und meine Abstand Von Lautsprechern Sitzplatz ist fast 4 m. Und welche Vollverstärker mit Streaming und Phone Anschlüsse als Kombination Wärst du mir empfehlen Max 1500€Was meinst du mit zum Beispiel eine linn ds1?Liebe Gruß danke
Hi, mit den Lintons kann man sehr lange sehr gut Musik hören, auch mal laut. Besser aber mit meinem Tuning. Ich würde mir nie ein Gerät kaufen, dass alles in sich vereint. Es kann alles, aber nichts richtig :) Lieber einzelen Geräte kaufen. Vollverstärker mit Empfehlung: Kinki Studio 2020 Version EX M1 Cheers Mike
No, i can only say, i did not like the sound of Superior Jantzens, its mmhhh how to say...smooth and without many overtones, boring for me. Better with Audyn Tri Reference with SSG01 or like my current solution Jantzen Standard ZCap with 0.68 Miflex KPCU shunt, but with Mundorf Superior resistors cheers Mike
Hello ! Great upgrade with this beautiful speakers. Bravo! On your photo of crossover after upgrade, where is the Mundorf resistance ? I can't see this part. And also, what's the 3 black screws with old parts ? Thanks a lot.
Hi, please read comments, there are more infos hidden :)That was seven months ago, maybe I just had it on the workbench ... or was it the terminal on the bass ... ?? Sorry getting old ... :) Cheers Mike
Hey Mike, well done. which cable (Manufacturer or type) was used for bass and midrange? Would it be better if the electrolytic capacitor had also been replaced? Thank you for the videos and the expertise they convey. thx m
Hi, the manufacturer of the cable is unknown, unfortunately the cable is too soft, but where the replacement is most worthwhile, you can't get it, with the tweeter. Elocap is bypassed with foilcap, so very good made crossover. Cheers Mike
😊Try removing the crossover and rolling the tweeter off with a 2mf cap on the tweeter.. Hard wire the bass speaker wire directly to the woofer.. It looks like a very complicated crossover... Russ Andrews did this 2 a pair of Spendor BC1S and he sells a simple kit which he says improves them considerably
@@headquarteraudio5388I have practiced what I preach and removed 1 of those white resistors from tweeters on my Tannoys... And just left the 2 mf cap in place.. The detail is exactly as u said.... I havent done the woofer yet because they are large
Hi Mike :) The capacitor and resistor only effect on the tweeter ? from the video its sound like all the speaker sound open now not just the tweeter thank you :)
Hi, yes, since instruments naturally sound over a wide frequency range (distributed across the chassis), it is important that the harmonics and sound quality of all chassis are equivalent. Since the treble branch was muffled, the instruments sound now more correct, faster, more open, simply more realistic after modifying the treble components via the tweeter. Music! Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Hi Mike, i just finish to upgrade the crossover and WOWWWWW what amazing change. all the sound open and the linton sound like Hi-End speaker. Thank you so much for all your support and sharing all your knowledge with us.
Hi Mike Although I don't have these speakers I have watched the "Linton" tweak videos several times. I bought the Wharfedale Evo 4.2 speakers. They are great looking speakers, seem very well made and have a great sound but I would be very interested to know if there were any similar tweaks that could be made to improve the sound. Although they sound very good they are not the most dynamic and seem lack a bit of punch in the upper bass / lower mid range. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, you have a new subscriber based in Ireland.
Hi, unfortunately, I can't find any pictures of the crossover on the Internet, which is strange. But there is also price pressure here, so no good and somewhat more expensive components will have been used here. Caution is also required here, as the tweeter is sensitive to changes. What you should do is solder the cable connections to the chassis, also straight on the back of the terminal. Then switch to singel wire right away, then you can remove the bridges on the outside (if you don't do biwireing) The thin metal sheets on the inside must best be removed completely and the bare wires soldered on with a strong soldering iron. Maybe that will bring you enough dynamics All at your own risk :) have fun Cheers Mike
Same here with 4.3's - Get rid of the terminal bridge like the man said! Improves dynamics.... I didn't resolder, just join the terminals with a 4 inch section of your cable, then I soldered on some tight fitting BFA connectors to the main speaker cable. I would love to know what's inside, quality wise. Not sure whether to keep them though!
@@peterlarkin762 Hi Peter, I made my own jumpers and was amazed at the difference it made. Haven't delved any further tweak wise. The Evos have a great sound and look but they are a little too laid back for my tastes. If I can find a worthy replacement I will have to find a new home for the Evo's.
Mike, a final question. In the image of your upgraded crossover I can easily identify the Jantzen cap, but I cannot see the Mundorf resistor. Maybe I’m too old to see it, but I would like to know which one of the resistors did you precisely changed. Is there a benefit of changing all the resistors since they seems to be of the same low quality of the chosen one? Thanks and regards!
Hi Mike! Das gleiche Problem habe ich leider auch. Wo genau du den Mundorf Resistor eingebaut/ausgetauscht hast, erschließt sich mir leider auch nicht. Das mag an meinem fehlenden Fachwissen liegen, trotzdem würde ich micht über eine weiterführende Erklärung sehr freuen. Ansonsten ein super Video, vielen Dank!
Hi, sorry, I'm not getting any younger ... :) of course the resistor is missing in the photo, I only decided later to swap it because I only had this value in stock. In front of the blue Jantzen there are 2 resistors shown (on the other side behind it is a round air coil), of which it is the 2.2 Ohm resistor. Please report the result here :) Cheers Mike
@@davidgomorrah2977 Hi, sorry, ich werde auch nicht jünger... :) natürlich fehlt der Widerstand auf dem Foto, hatte mich erst später dazu entschlossen, diesen zu tauschen, da ich auch nur genau diesen Wert vorrätig hatte. Vor dem blauen Jantzen sind 2 Widerstände abgebildet ( auf der anderen Seite dahinter ist eine runde Luftspule ), davon ist es der 2.2 Ohm Widerstand. Bitte berichtet hier um das Ergebnis :) Cheers Mike
wollte noch fragen welchen 2,2 ohm widerstand du geändert hast auf der platine ? und warum hast du die kabelbinder entfernt von den spulen ? macht das sound mäßig einen unterschied ? danke für die antwort schonmal ^^
Hi, äußerer oberer rechter Widerstand rechts neben dem Jantzen, und bitte lies die Kommentare. Da steht dann noch mehr.. ,:) Ich entferne immer die Kabelbinder, weil man es nicht schafft beim festzurren immer die gleiche Spannung zu erreichen, daher klingen die Bauteile links und rechts immer unterschiedlich. Wenn sie dann zu fest angezogen wurden, wird das Klangbild klein bis stressig.. Viele Grüße Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 ah okay vielen dank für die Antwort :) okay das wusste ich noch nicht daß sich dadurch der Klang verändert, wieder was dazu gelernt :D Gruß Sven
The Wharfedale Denton 85th Anniversary badly needs a crossover tweak because it's too bright and fatiguing, especially with ride cymbals, hi-hats, brushes and female voices. Speaker designer Peter Comeau of Wharfedale says he doesn't like speakers that want to impress you with bass and treble, yet the treble of the Denton 85th is overly strong. It's activating my tinnitus. What's your take on it, Headquarter Audio? Have you auditioned the Denton 85th Anniversary?
Hi, to buy the Lintons ? :) Sometimes there is something wrong in the rig, maybe Sherlock is needed. Never heard the Dentons, but they have i think the same cap as the Lintons,and they never sound bright...cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Yes, the Lintons are not bright (thank god!) but Dentons 85th are. I know because I have both Linton and Denton. Some people even put a 1 Ohm resistor between the bi-wire connection of the Denton to make the treble less overwhelming. I never heard of this tweak (can't find any info on the internet either) and that's probably why I was wondering about a crossover tweak. The Dentons need it more than the Lintons.
@@cremersalex Hi, i found this comment: They are only bright when you connect them according to Wharfedale’s recommendations, which is diagonal wiring. However, when you connect them using only the HF connectors (bridged to LF), the sharpness in the treble is gone. Do this and you’ll have very good speakers. Maybe try it. I dont have the Dentons and cant find a sheet of the crossover...cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Hehehe ... That advice came from me, and while it helps, it is still somewhat too bright and there seems to be less depth to the music. Of course, differences are just subtle. Anyway, thank you for giving it some thought, HEADquarter Audio. Who knows, maybe the speakers will eventually change (smoothen) over time.
Hi, na klar. Allein das anlöten der Kabel ist schon ein Sprung, endlich keine stressigen Höhen, kein ausgezehrtes Klangbild mehr. Leider habe ich diese nicht hier, sonst hätte es mich schon in den Fingern gejuckt...Cheers Mike
Bought a pair of Linton 85 a week ago at local dealer. It was a demo pair so fairly "broken in". I listened to them in the shop with a Cambridge EVO 150 class D amp. I fell in love with the sound directly. So I took them home and connected them to my Caiyn MT-35 tube amp. Greatly disappointed! Not at all as in shop. Tested with a Monacor STA-125 studio amp. No difference. Tested with Naim Uniti2. No difference (or at least not satisfied). So I hook it to my Carver Cinema 2x400W amp using Naim as pre amp. Much better, but still not great and far from what I liked in the shop. Must be the acoustic treatment of my room then, because moving the speakers around with any of the amps did'nt help. Strange because other speakers sound good in my listening room. The sound could best be described as "meh"! Flat and boring, no punch and grainy mids and highs. So finally, I use my Crown XLS 2502, 2x775W/4ohms, class D, as last try before returning speakers to shop. BANG.....I get exactly that sweet and wonderful sound we heard in the shop. Super tight, controlled, non sibliant, airy and punchy sound. Just like being there. Now they sound far better than my Martin Logans or any other expensive speakers I've had. I think those speakers are suckers for high power, or rather control. The class D type may be a factor here? Usually I don't care much for class D as I have heard them, but in this case it made all difference in the world. I will soon move on with capacitor and resistor upgrade and see what that will bring me, but first I had to do something to make the originals sound decent. And now, man they do!
Hi, of course, but remember that the Mundorf Surpreme have load-bearing capacity. Before they burn out, the driver will burn out (possibly). I would do it and take the risk, but all without a guarantee.🤗 Cheers Mike
Master, good afternoon, I am impressed with you. Thanks for sharing your talent. Can you give us more details on the two components you changed or suggest better ones? Thanks a lot. Best regards from Perú.
Hi, I only changed two components because I didn't want to change the set-up too much. If you want to take more and use expensive parts, welcome, but you can also do too much;), then it's more towards taste ... Cheers Mike (please read the comment and the description)
@@headquarteraudio5388 thanks for reply, My question is, since I can't find the standard Z-CAP, can I use the superior Z-CAP? the capacitor voltage, it is relevant??
@@gastonguev Hi, yes, of course you can use that. It can only be a little big in size that it doesn't fit on the board, but there is enough space next to it. The Superior sounds a bit finer with more timbres, but costs almost 10 times as much ... Cheers Mike
Hi, thanks for the nice work. Just to confirm, the 2.2 ohm resistor to change is the one at the left bottom corner when looking at your “completed” crossover in the video?
@@headquarteraudio5388 thank you. Just to be doubly sure, it is one of the pair of resistors that are just beside the Jantzen cap, the one that is at the very edge of the pcb?
Good work👍🏻😉 to remove the tweeter you can try a saugy (Saugnapf). I'm sure it will work. An other tuning option would be to fill the struts of the mid driver with a hot glue pistol or metal knead. Cheers from Berlin.
Hi, no never use damping mat, rubber or glue. If you want to get rid of metal tone of the struts use TESA or Tape, just a little piece on every strut-no damping...cheers Mike
To be honest, they still sound overly warm and too rich in the low mids. I bought these speakers too and feel they could do with a little more 'air' and the low mids need to be severely 'tamed' (reduced). I tried several amps, different cables, changed their position, even played with tone controls, but I can't get them to sound better. And I can't hear any difference with your tweak either but that could be due to your mic.
Hi, sure, the tweeter will profit there too... but i never heard the dentons..is there a lack of details und depth? Cheers Mike
3 года назад
@@headquarteraudio5388 i have nothing to compare it to. but I assume it would. curiosity is driving me to try. what if i change all of the resistors? is the tweeter resistor on the HF bit? The dentons are bi wired. does this complicate things?
@ Hi, of course, you can swap all of the resistors, but the voicing can change. Therefore, look for the resistor or resistors in front of the white capacitor and exchange them, and the wihte cap for Jantzen Standard or Superior same value. Since it is a recommendation of mine to solder the cables and I am not a friend of biwirering, you can only choose one input and solder the cables inside and place them on the lower two terminals ( + and - ), for example, with a extern normal cable the sheet metal bridges are omitted . That is a great sound advantage. Have fun, no guarantee from me, as I don't know the speaker and don't know how fit you are in this area :) Cheers Mike
3 года назад
@@headquarteraudio5388 hi mike. do you mean in front of as in the first resistor on the HF that the signal from the amp meets?
Thanks for the Great advice, Mike. I have a pair of Wharfedale Denton 80th anniversary speaker and it suffers the exact problems described by you: lack of details, clarity, airiness and finesse in the tweeter, the sound becomes compressed at high volume. I am going to do the same modification to the Denton to see how much it can improve from the upgrade .
interressantes Video Mike, ich fand die Lintons für den Preis scho immer sehr lecker und optisch äüßerst ansprechend. Das Ergebnis für so ein "einfaches" Tuning ist beachtlich. Musik auch sehr gut, kannt ich noch nit. Warum machs du deine Videos eigtl. nicht in deutsch oder in deutsch /englisch ? Auf jedenfall weiter so tolle Tips und Tricks, viel Spass beim Musikhören und schöne Feiertage nach Kölle . Gruß Chris aus Wuppertal
Hi, danke. Leider ist das alles schon sehr viel Arbeit. Der Output ist so gering, reicht nicht mal zum Essen gehen, daher bleibt es auf kleiner Flamme...Frohes Neues und beste Grüße cheers Mike
Really good video.! - I bought a pair of Linton SP2 but they do not work, they sound terrible. They looked in amazing condition I only paid £20 in charity shop in England. Maybe they are blown from previous owner or it is something wrong in the crossover? Greetings from England my friend. Your system sounds incredible just with these Linton speakers!
HI Mike! I have just studied the circuit a little and for the tweeter, you can also replace the yellow capacitor (684J) because it is mounted with the one you changed. Basically, it serves as a filter. Its value is 0.68uf. So much for the info. Don't you plan to change all the other resistances? I think the sound would be much more liberated. Have a good time with these jewels!
Hi, thank you very much, I know that. You can find many more good tips in the comments. The more you change, the more the sound changes, whether it is correct and sounds good, only you can decide, but then it has nothing to do with the planned manufacturer sound ... I just tried to eliminate the drop in height and details that I noticed . Cheers Mike
Mike - You clever man.
I love my Lintons. I'm old enough to have grown-up with wide baffle speakers & adore their sound.
I've had the Jansen cap and Mundorf resistor in them for 48hrs. EXCELLENT.
Everything you say is bang-on-correct.
That is so clever.
I am over the moon with your advice.
@@DJM626 A quick Google search should give you your best options. Parts express looks favourable.
Did you only change the 2 parts that Mike recommended or did you do the complete as Mike does later?
Hi Mike
I have to thank you so much when I brought my Linton's I was disappointed with the sound no dynamics and lifeless top and mid very restrained your upgrade has made these speakers keepers your upgrade has produced an unbelievable transformation in sound which I would have never thought possible the Linton's have now erupted into a raging volcano of sound I am hearing all my CDs as if I had never heard them before, the amount of dynamic's and detail is mind blowing and they just keep getting better. thanks mike form a very happy Linton owner
Hi,
thank you for this commentary. Very nice. yes, that is like the Druidic secret knowledge, it works :). Now imagine, I get a DAC or drive in my hands :) :) Have fun with your rocket Lintons and best regards from Germany, Cheers Mike
Total bullshit
Hello Mike
I upgraded my Lintons 85 and used your capacitor suggested and the Mundorf resistors and now the speakers are opening up.
I am very pleased with the Sound. 👍🏻😀
Wow ! Listening to my studio monitors and switching back and forward, the difference in sound is clear. Even to my old ears. Now I am happy I have ordered both the Lintons, and new crossover resistors, caps and inductor s. Thanks a lot for your upgrade videos. I now am looking forward to when my new gear is here, and I can fix them. PS, your gear looks and sounds nice. Would have loved to tried out your large open baffle speakers on my tubes.
Halo , can i know how do you the inductor value and gauge to buy this item ? tq
Dear Mike, To tell you that I upgraded my Lintons, I have placed the Jantzen Superior Z cap capacitors and the Mundorff Supreme Resistors, the result is magnificent. Thanks a lot!
Yeah ! :) Wondeful, Surpreme is a good step in the right direction... cheers Mike
did you change all of the resistors?
Thanks Mike
It's amazing to change speakers for so little money. They really look like much more vivid upstairs and more open speakers, with much more breadth. I love these Linton. Thank you very much
Hi, yes, its better to mod the lintons as to spend 1000s for more expensive versions... :) Cheers Mike
Mike, don't you have a more complete video about the process of tweaking the Lintons and how to do it, what to do exactly and where on the crossover. Maybe you can have a link to a PDF document made by yourself, a detailed explanation with documented pictures, parts reference etc... This could be a good idea ? ;-)
I Liked my Lintons before. Now I Love them. Again , Thank you Mike for this information. The upper end is much more Hi-end sounding now after the crossover fix.
Hi, super! Have fun! Cheers Mike
Have you done a before and after measurement to justify the improvements?
@@kevincheong1516can’t you hear the difference? 😅
@@lssht lol, I bet your super hearing only exist when you can see. 🤣
@@kevincheong1516 i’m Sorry, but try an ear wax remover :) i use it time to time. The difference on this simple tweak is VERY clear.
I have done it and got very good result. TQ Mike
niiiice 🙂cheers Mike
Any chance you want to describe exactly what you did? 😊
Hi, Mike. I am very grateful to you.
I didn't believe you even when I was changing the parts. I listen to a lot of Latin music, so I wanted to hear percussion sounds, but I was sad that Linton 85 couldn't do that, and I bought other speakers.
After changing the parts, Linton 85 is giving me a new sound.
Linton 85 is giving me a lot of pleasure now.
Thank you very much.
Hi, I just said it at the end of my new video (Talk Talk), you can trust me :)
I'm really happy that I was able to help, the Lintons are simply unbelievable for this price with tuning ... cheers Mike
I did the mod and wanted to share my experience. - I replaced the 2 caps as suggested with the blue Jantzen, i repalaced the resistor (the one where the signal comes in, that is the outer one where the two 2,2Ohm resistors are parallel to each other) and i soldered bass and mid driver. - I am not sure if soldering the cables the to drivers makes much difference, i couldn't hear it. - But, replacing the capacitor and possibly the resistor in the tweeter path really changed something. Treble is now clearer, more open, more extended. Before this mod i used an EQ of +2db from 10kHz up "to freshen things up", but i removed this now. Treble sounds improved and better to me now. Thanks to Mike, also the instructions where a bit confusing :-)
Hi, sorry for that, but the result Hopefully compensates :) Cheers Mike
I have the Wharfedale Denton 85th and as you mentioned I have the same problem as your Linton's. You said you used to EQ +2 from 10kHz up to make the Treble clearer, more open, more extended. That's what I wanted to hear, especially the extended part.
After reading I set my EQ to your specs, turned on some tunes and Wa-La, music to my ears.
Thank you.
Hola Mike saludos desde España, por fin realice todas las modificaciones explicadas en tu vídeo y con tu ayuda. Solo puedo decir gracias, es impresionante como mejoraron las Linton, mas abiertas, musicales,con mucha más escena y el tweeter impresionante mucho más detallado, ahora si estoy enamorado de mis cajas, por cierto en la resistencia le puse unas mundorrf supreme. Gracias por tu trabajo un abrazo.
Hola Juan que Tanta diferencia te pareció cuando lo hicisteis. pedí todos los caps me llegan manana para hacer el upgrade.
Hola Norberto cómo te fue, merece realmente la pena el upgrate. Gracias.
Hola Juan Pedro,te llevo mucho tiempo hacer la mejora? Y aprox. por cuanto te salió,un saludo y gracias.
HOLA JUAN
SOY DE CHILE Y QUIERO HACER UPGRADE DE MIS LINTON
SABRAS CUALES SON LOS CAPS Y RESISTENCIAS QUE DEBO COMPRAR PARA CAMBIAR.
GRACIAS POR TU AYUDA.
SALUDOS
@@RodrigoMartinez-qj8oj Hola Rodrigo, hiciste el upgrade? saludos, también de Chile
Hi Mike
Thank you for your inspiring Tube
I kinda followed your advise - but took it a little further - by replacing a little in the midrange as well - put in a Miflex there also.
Linton is now SO much bettter - sound stage WOW . Details - but still very musical.
I changed all together 3 resistors and 5 capacitors and added 2 Miflex in each.
I can't beleve how much better it is. "out of the box" no burning in...
Thank you
Henning
Hi Henning, wonderful. Please watch my Surpreme Video too. Dont forget the coils, cheap ones too. I found a way for much better sound by changing the crossover in tweeter section... wow...cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Hi! How do changed the highs crossovers? you changed the cross point?
Hi, no it stays the same... i changed a lot, that needs other resistor value and even much more... cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Any more info on these changes? :) Is it possible to get a full guide for what I should do...? Or do I have to look through videos and comments? :) As stated earlier here it is a little bit unclear at times. Anyways - thank you so much for sharing all this info!
You answered my question at the end of your video. Job well done.
I've just finished upgrading the crossover with
JANTZEN AUDIO SILVER Z-CAP Capacitor 800V 6.8μF and
MOX Mundorf Supreme 20W 2.2 Ohm Metal Oxide resistor. Also soldered all cables directly to speaker drivers. Did both mods separately.
Soldering cables brought slight improvement with resolution and dynamics. Definitely worth consideration even without the crossover mod.
Crossover upgrade made them sound very neutral and much more detailed, maybe slightly brighter or lighter in middle frequencies. CD quality now sounds closer to what hi-res sounded before. Before the upgrade vocals and solo instruments often sounded too big or too fat, which made soundstage unrealistic. This is now fixed. Everything is more cohesive. Imaging in the center stage is better. It was kind of blurred before as vocals often prevailed in the center.
If you don't want to risk a change in sound character, there is slight but for the better, you can try Jantzen Superior caps, which should sound less bright than Silver caps. Don't know the size of cheaper Jantzen caps but Silver are 5x bigger in volume than original caps. A bit of a hassle to make them fit. Couldn't fix them with hot glue as I intended.
Hi, wow very detailed review. Thanks. I can sign everything you write, just a little hint: Intertechnik Audyn Tri Reference with Russian Mica are then the affordable summit! Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Thank you for the tips and support.
Enjoying watching your video from middle USA. I'm glad you speak English, very well. And you are funny.
[ there's no music in here, nope!]🎶
I have had my linton's for about 8 weeks. I've been hearing what you described on the upper range. Running a SVS sub along side. I really like them but anxious for the crossover upgrades. All four pieces should be arriving tomorrow. My friend with electronics knowledge is going to solder them in for me and solder the wire directly to the speaker terminal. Will update after the new goodies are installed.
Hi, thanks for the comment. There is a new video out, Tweeter Mod. ! :) Please write the reuslt here... :) Cheers Mike
Dear friend, good afternoon, please, where did you buy the parts? Greetings from Peru!
@@gastonguev Hi, maybe here? www.partsconnexion.com/cgi-bin/sc/productsearch.cgi?search_field=jantzen%20standard Cheers Mike
@@gastonguev parts express.com they are in Ohio , U S. A. They have the capacitors , unsure if they have the resistors.
from what i understand the 5W2R2K is a 2.2 ohm resistor with 10 percent error. Therefore it is this one that i change at the end of the signal chain before going to the tweeter inputs.
Hi, who changes in the end something when the beginning sounds bad :) ?? Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 always a puzzle and riddle your comments :) . The first resistor in the chain does the damage to the signal. But the value is 0.68 ohms. Can't find one. The new capacitor bumps it. Then the final resistor trims it? The Linton and Denton 85 have the same tweeters
@ Hi, I usually speak plain text, but I already said that I don't know the denton loudspeaker and the crossover, so I can't give any tips. I also don't have the time to devote myself more and more intensively to all tuning requests, there are dozen ... I only give tips that I tried 100% myself and was satisfied ... DIY :) cheers Mike
Jantzen capacitors from their basic line of Cross Cap to the highest ones Amber are not really about to change the sound signature itself, but have been developed on contrary to expand it with lots of detail my friend for sure! ;)
Hi, I don't disagree :), but there is more ... and there is more possible ... I'm already ready to say what I'm always looking for, holographic representation, real overtones that fascinate, hear instruments and voices around. Micro information ... etc. AND easier to follow each rhythmic influence separately, that's easy with the Miflex! Cheers Mike
Excellent job Mike!! Congrats
Thank you !! :) Cheers Mike
Hi Mike!
Just a few minutes ago I finished a rather big and exhausting job, updating all remaining resistors and capacitors, except 80uF electrolyte and the oblong/flat one bypass under-neath it.
It is immediately obvious that this major upgrade I just finished , has brought several new layers of detail and clarity in midrange, and at the same time greatly improved allover "softness" and "silkyness". The harsh sibilant female voices and saxophone phrases are gone now Mike...!
UPDATE 210831: No, harsh sibilant voices or instruments are not fully gone, but better. I am more and more thinking that problem is an unwanted midrange driver resonance or other unlucky characteristic.
Will likely test that hypothesis by swapping for a traditional coated paper cone mid driver. They are well known to have very effective damping of resonances and a very soft and nice sounding roll off. Like VIFA M13SG or similar
STILL the improvement of midrange detail and delicacy, resulting in immensely much better sense of life and presense of voices and instruments, is truly huge and make the upgrade worth every dollar and drop of sweat.
Personally I believe removing the 22uF electrolytic in the midrange circuit may have been a major part of this. Also resistors and caps in series in midrange circuite have likely contributed.
Danny at GR-Research has many, many years of experience of what component type and quality level of components in speaker crossovers do for sound quality, and says that the slow and unprecise discharge characteristics of electrolyte caps definitively smears detail and degrade soundstage etc.
ruclips.net/video/8IQ4t1Y1mxo/видео.html
If I had already built my planned new big-size crossover board, and had run it externally, I would have done the resistor and cap upgrades step by step to learn which component that was the biggest bottleneck, but the job is so awkward, and the risk of damaging connect- ions when handling such a big and heavy tweeter cap as the 6.8uF Audyn Tri-Ref, is considerable. Thus, I made all of it at the same time.
It really did take some time to do it all also, and I had to do part of it yesterday, and the rest this morning.
Anyway, I can hear no obvious negative effects so far, but HUGE midrange improvements , and will now take a good long listen and enjoy my successful job and the effort put int it.
Component used in this last big component upgrade:
Resistors: Mundordf M-resist Supreme: 2.2Ohm, 6.8Ohm, 47Ohm
Caps: Jantzens Standard Z-Cap: 2.2 uF, 8.6uF, 15uF, 18uF, 22uF
Cheers,
Magnus
Hi Magnus, you did great work, again. Could you please clarify the details of the bypass-cap underneath the 80uF? I think the readings on Mikeˋs handout in his newest video are not correct for those two caps C11 and C12. Thank you very much, Christoph
@@christoph5799 Hi Christoph, and thanks for kind words! I actually never did bend the 80uF loose, and thus never saw the flat bypass cap specifications ( numbers/letters ). I thought that A) The caps for the bass circuite were likely less crucial for what I percieve as most important aspects of sound quality B) The 80uF cap would be a too HUGE and expensive one to replace, when not expecting major benefits. I might have been wrong though..., maybe someone proves that to me soon!
Hi Mike. I just done your crossover tweak and I am happy with the results. Much more details and space, BUT I lost a little forwardness and weight of the midrange. Is there anything more I can do to improve / give more weight to lower mids?
Hi, let it burn in and settle, maybe change the midrange caps too...but if you go further much more is coming to do... :) cheers MIke
@@headquarteraudio5388 It would also help to change out MID iron inductors for air coil
I agree whit the missing forwardnes and i only did the resistor supreme.
Hi Mike. This is a great upgrade. Same Linton sound signature but improved, more definition in highs and more open. I did your upgrade following your instructions. New Mundorf blue capacitor, Supreme resitor and all welds to all speaker terminals with Mundorf silver material. Do you recommend any other improvements maintaining the same sound signature? I’m very happy with the sound. I’m pairing these speakers with my Naim new 200 series system($27,000) and the sound is great!! Better than my Proacs D20R’s. Very difficult to understand!!!
Hi, I'm glad you like it. The Lintons really need a powerful amp. I've found that if you do more, you unfortunately have to do more and more... because other components can no longer keep up, they are simply overwhelmed. Then you go from puppy to stick, you have to do it like I did, build a whole new crossover. Very expensive and complex, the result is stunning and certainly better than the new big version Devondale. Enjoy your Linton a la Mike/Headquarter Audio... watch may video about laquer of the Linton, and remove the sheet metal protection of the tweeter... :) be careful there ....cheers Mike
Thank you very much Mike. I removed the sheet metal from the tweeters. The complete crossover upgrade is the one you show in the Tuning step 2 video or is a new design? If you have a new design could you show me? I am also interested in the lacquer for the membranes, where I buy it? Again, I am very happy with the upgrade and thank you very much Mike!
Hi can you tell me exactly where you ordered the parts from and how many of each are needed? I just purchased these speakers and am going to have someone perform this upgrade for me. Thank you
Did you only replace one capacitor and one resistor in each speaker?
Hi. I saw a video and indeed the only way to removed the tweeter is by prising off the plastic surround and the screws are underneath. So it damages the speaker.....shame. The comparison sounds much clearer and more open after the mod. Sometimes it’s hard to tell on RUclips. Would be interested in the information if you can forward to me. Thanks. Tony
Hi, thank you very much for the information, I was afraid of it. No good solution. As soon as I have a solution, I will contact you. Cheers Mike
I ordered the mundorf resistors but mine are green. Waiting on the other capacitor to get here then we will be in business. Thank you Mike.
Yeah,, maybe it was a deiifernet manufacturer, but it is mox and better is the mudorf surpreme... have fun and tell me please the result... cheers Mike
Mike , Wow Wee ! I'm hearing the more Detailed side of my upper end now. My audio friend just installed them 2 hours ago. I'm having difficulty prying myself away from my speakers now , lol. Thank you for your knowledge.
One thing we paused at was , he wasn't sure which " resistor " to remove. He figured out it was the one on the corner , away from the other two close together. I would never have figured that out. Thanks again.
Hi Mike. Great job. Very informative video. Well worth the watch. Happy, Healthy Prosperous New year to you and your family. 😊🎉🌟. From Mike.
Hi, I also wish from the bottom of my heart! All the best! And thank you very much! Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Thank you Mike. 😊👍🏻🌟
I have Denton 85 and I would like to do same mod for better and detailed High Frequencyes. I am skilled with a soldering iron but I cannot recognize which are the resistor and the capacitor of the treble part. I think that a slightly smaller resistor would be needed because on the Denton 85th the high frequencies are rolled back a bit while maintaining the same crossover cut. I hope can you help me.
sorry, i dont have the Dentons... cheers Mike
For those who have made this mod - do the highs increase to a level that induce listener fatigue? I'm thinking of the B&W sound signature that I can't take for more than a short while. Thanks!
Hi, you can also ask me:) ... the treble is not raised or amplified. The tuning is only expanded in the direction of more open and hearable, there are also more tones, the built-in capacitor costs 30 ct, the Jantzen around 6 €. If you then use the Mundorf Surpreme, you are on the safe side. no fatigueing. But after tuning the speaker is able to show what may not be right in the chain beforehand. B&W is a mainstream sound that should please everyone, real music is that for me not ... oops, please don't beat me ..: ) ... cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Thanks Mike! I've been enjoying your videos. Cheers!
Емкости проходят современные стадии производства: высокой плотности полипропилен отпаривается в вакуумном беспыльном пространстве, после чего покрывается алюминиево-оловянным сплавом (серебряной пленкой, в зависимости от линейки), затем термически обрабатывается в лабораторных условиях.
На наш слух, самые конкурентно способные - это серии MKPA-B, MKPA-S, MKPA-C. Об особенностях звучания MKPA-B и C смотрите в наших других объявлениях.
Серия MKPA-S отличается высоким уровнем звучания на всем диапазоне слышимых частот. При использовании на ВЧ полосе - в меру детальны, не спрячут ни одного нюанса в микро и макро динамике. Тембрально ровные, музыкальные, нежные, без грязи и шершавости, раскрывают аудиосигнал чисто и прозрачно, как родниковая вода. На СЧ - создают отличную контрастность вокала и разделение инструментов, хорошее вовлечение в музыкальный материал, на НЧ - точный, густой, фактурный и читаемый бас.
Если сравнивать этот конденсатор с европейскими брендами, то такой же детальный как Jantzen Silver Z-cap, но не навязчивый и холодный в верхней границе частот. Такой же пространственный как ClarityCap серии CSA, формирует отличную музыкальную сцену, но не отстраненный. В целом конденсатор наряду с высокой прозрачностью, ясностью и детальностью обладает очень взвешенным и сбалансированным звучанием, что согласуется с его более высокой ценой.
Конденсатор представляет собой неиндуктивную структуру, которая изготовлена из вакуумно-серебряной полипропиленовой пленки в виде комбинации диэлектрика и электрода. Электрод выводится серебряной проволокой и герметизируется эпоксидной смолой. Обладает свойством самовосстановления, так как металлизированное алюминиевое покрытие (около 0,03 мкм) очень тонкое и в случае мгновенного максимального заряда или при ударе большим током металлическое покрытие в области нарастания тока короткого замыкания испаряется, образуя область временной изоляции, так что функция емкости может сохраняется неповрежденной и затем восстанавливается.
Yuri Konev
Die Behälter durchlaufen moderne Produktionsschritte: Hochdichtes Polypropylen wird im Vakuum, staubfrei gedämpft, anschließend mit einer Aluminium-Zinn-Legierung (Silberfolie, je nach Linie) beschichtet, anschließend im Labor thermisch verarbeitet Bedingungen. In unseren Ohren sind die wettbewerbsfähigsten die Serien MKPA-B, MKPA-S und MKPA-C. Sehen Sie sich unsere anderen Ankündigungen für MKPA-B- und C-Soundfunktionen an. Die MKPA-S-Serie zeichnet sich durch hohe Schallpegel über den gesamten hörbaren Frequenzbereich aus. Beim Einsatz im HF-Band sind sie mäßig detailliert, sie werden keine Nuance in der Mikro- und Makrodynamik verbergen. Klangfarben gleichmäßig, musikalisch, sanft, ohne Schmutz und Rauheit, geben das Audiosignal rein und transparent wie Quellwasser frei. Im Mitteltonbereich - sie erzeugen einen hervorragenden Stimmkontrast und die Trennung von Instrumenten, eine gute Einbindung in das musikalische Material, auf den niedrigen Frequenzen - präziser, dicker, strukturierter und lesbarer Bass. Vergleicht man diesen Kondensator mit europäischen Marken, dann ist er so detailliert wie der Jantzen Silver Z-Cap, aber nicht aufdringlich und kalt an der oberen Frequenzgrenze. So räumlich wie die ClarityCap der CSA-Serie, prägt sie eine großartige Musikszene, aber nicht distanziert. Generell hat der Kondensator neben hoher Transparenz, Klarheit und Detailtreue einen sehr ausgewogenen und ausgewogenen Klang, was seinem höheren Preis entspricht. Der Kondensator ist eine nicht-induktive Struktur aus vakuumsilberner Polypropylenfolie in Form einer Kombination aus Dielektrikum und Elektrode. Die Elektrode wird mit einem Silberdraht herausgeführt und mit Epoxid versiegelt. Besitzt die Eigenschaft der Selbstheilung, da die metallisierte Aluminiumbeschichtung (ca. 0,03 µm) sehr dünn ist und bei einer sofortigen Maximalladung oder bei einem hohen Stromstoß die Metallbeschichtung im Bereich des Anstiegs des Kurzschlussstrom verdampft und bildet einen temporären Isolationsbereich, so dass die Kapazitätsfunktion intakt erhalten und dann wiederhergestellt werden kann.Yuri Konev
The containers go through modern stages of production: high-density polypropylene is steamed in a vacuum, dust-free space, after which it is coated with an aluminum-tin alloy (silver film, depending on the line), then thermally processed in laboratory conditions. To our ears, the most competitive ones are the MKPA-B, MKPA-S, MKPA-C series. See our other announcements for MKPA-B and C sound features. The MKPA-S series features high sound levels across the entire audible frequency range. When used in the HF band, they are moderately detailed, they will not hide a single nuance in the micro and macro dynamics. Timbre even, musical, gentle, without dirt and roughness, reveal the audio signal purely and transparently, like spring water. On the midrange - they create excellent vocal contrast and separation of instruments, good involvement in musical material, on the low frequency - accurate, thick, textured and readable bass. If we compare this capacitor with European brands, then it is as detailed as the Jantzen Silver Z-cap, but not intrusive and cold at the upper frequency limit. As spatial as the CSA Series ClarityCap, shapes a great music scene, but not detached. In general, the condenser, along with high transparency, clarity and detail, has a very balanced and balanced sound, which is consistent with its higher price. The capacitor is a non-inductive structure made of vacuum-silver polypropylene film in the form of a combination of a dielectric and an electrode. The electrode is led out with a silver wire and sealed with epoxy. Possesses the property of self-healing, since the metallized aluminum coating (about 0.03 μm) is very thin and in the case of an instant maximum charge or in case of a high current shock, the metal coating in the region of the rise of the short-circuit current evaporates, forming a temporary isolation area, so that the capacitance function can be preserved intact and then restored.😅
Привет, пожалуйста, назовите компанию / производителя, о котором вы пишете. Вы можете связаться с Headquateraudio.de для проверки конденсаторов. (Пожалуйста, используйте только все, что лучше или эквивалентно Miflex, или то, что кажется более подходящим по цене в других позициях.) С уважением, Майк.
wow what a sound !!! I own a pair of Lintons too and I will probably upgrade too.
Hi, yeah try it!! :) Cheers Mike
Also, like the tweeter tuning. Is there a short and practicable version? Want not see every step.
How much for the modified speaker.
Hi, its diy :) cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 I though you sold the finished product. Do you explain the upgrade in detail and do you have one for the evo 4.2? I have that speaker.
@@vicg5323 it is only diy, please read comments for more information...no further upgrades planned...cheers MIke
Great video and advice.
Do you have any recommendations for how to open up the higher frequencies (top end) of the Wharfedale Denton 80th Anniversary speakers? Sonically part of the same anniversary line as the Lintons, but smaller bookshelf speakers.
Hi, i think it is the same white capacitor in the tweeter part.. pls send me picture of crossover per email. Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Thanks Mike - will do!
Greetings…can I do this to the Wharfedale diamond 10.7 ? I changed all the capacitors with parts express caps ,but not the resistors
The diamond has two capacitors for the tweeters 12uf and 6uf for the midrange . Do I change the resistor for both? Or just the tweeter? I don’t like the brick resistors…
Of course you can, but if I'm a beginner, I would practice with a cheaper speaker.
Okay I did it. The Lintons sound awesome now. I can't believe how much better ,lol , I'm glad I saw Mike's video. Now I feel the music . 😊😊😊 All that sound that was in Capacitor Hell 👿
BUT ,Now it's Free🐎🎹 . Those somewhat grainy highs are much nicer now, yes. The capacitor being replaced is the one by itself, away from the 2 together. I believe that's right.
I also put dampening putty on the backs of the speakers.
Hi, yes....wonderful...have fun ans all the best...cheers Mike
So is it the resistor next to "HF-" markings on board (also close to round coil) at 10:57 time (bottom left)? I though was the one of the two on top left from previous answers? :S
Thanks for these videos, but it is not clear to me which speaker that capacitor affects. Tweeter, mids or woofer?
Hi, its the tweeter...cheers Mike
Im curious have you tried a mix of jantzen standard z and clarity cap csa in the tweeter section? I find the standard z to be detailed in higher frequency but a tad harsh compared ro the csa which is warmer and abit more mid centric to my ears. For this reason i think they will compliment each other nicely. Perhaps even add both and a cde 940c 0.01uf 3000v as a bypass to meld them nicely. Thoughts?
Hi, no.😁 Except that I tried the caps you mentioned and after the burn in time they didn't stand a chance against the combination I suggested. The CMR (one of my favorite caps) is much better, but also expensive...cheers Mike
So it's the resistor at the bottom left of the photo (11:00) that needs to be replaced?
Hi, no please read all comments for much more helpful informations. Upper left 2.2 Ohm ( of two side by side) resistor at the edge. Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Yes, I read all the comments but, believe it or not, I still didn't understand it. So it's the one in the upper left corner. Got it now. Thanks! I now have to order the parts and find someone who can solder them because I have zero experience. I'm currently using Equalizer APO (a program that works at driver level) to slightly (!) enhance the upper mid-range which to my ears is the biggest flaw of the Lintons. Measurements show frequency roll-off already starts at 6K, which is very bad for 'presence' and 'snap', especially noticeable on drums and percussion. Hopefully the tweak has an effect on the upper mid-range/lower treble as well.
Can you show us finnished crossover after changing parts you passed away the most important bit there mate coz you showed us couple of parts than on the pictures you replaced 5 parts on each crossover kind of confusing you know. I know this subject is out of date but people still checking your videos to do upgrades today. Please be more specific For example where did you attached the KPCU01H410J - Kupferfolie Papier 0,1uF 600VDC 5% 24x50mm make another video and show us finnished cross over please Mike. Thank you in advance 😊
ruclips.net/video/abb05uGsn-U/видео.html
halo , sir can i know how to the inductor for woofer and tweeter value gauge if buy anew quality product ? tq
Hi, I found a Mundorf MResist MOX 10W 2% Resistors, is the same that you use? and the Jantzen capacitor that I found is 6.8uF 400V Z-Standard Capacitor, is correct?
Hi, i told it to you :) Cheers Mike
Видео полезное . jantzen конденсатор хороший выбор .
Hi Thank you! Cheers Mike
Hello! Please tell me , I don 't see in the video which resistor needs to be changed ?
Please read comments and discription, maybe atwch newer Linton videos...cheers MIke
Hi Mike you are a real engineer
Thanks, sometimes pioneer engineer... :) Cheers Mike
hab zum entfernen des bleches vom hochtöner das dünne blech von einem heftstreifen genommen, also das mit den 2 löchern drin. das unten beim hochtöner blech in den schmalen schlitz zwischen holz und blecht schieben. aber nur so 1 - 2mm und nach unten drücken. dadurch lässt sich das blech vom hochtöner raus hebeln sozusagen. so an verschiedenen stellen rings um das blech vorgehen denn sollte es langsam raus kommen. das blech an sich ist nur mit 4 stiften im gehäuse befestigt, am gehäuse sind gummimuffen die denn das blech halten.
Hi, also echt: Vielen Dank! :) Ich habe es sofort umgesetzt und ein Video dazu gemacht :) herzliche Grüße an den Master Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 kein problem, schön wenn ich helfen konnte =)
Ни чего не понял ? Что нужно поменять или убрать или заменить.Можно по подробней пожалуйста ? Спасибо
Bitte sieh dir als Grundlage meinen anderen Linton Videos an, cheers Mike
Before making any changes, did you check if that each of the speakers are on the proper side. The tweeters must be inside. They are not centered as you see. That make a big difference in sound. With the tweeters on the inside, the sound become a lot more focused with more prominent treble and quite a bit less midrange and bass.
Hi, but that was not the problem... :) Cheers Mike
Moin Maik, ich liebäugel schon länger mit dem Lintons. Nun ist es bei mir leider nicht so gut möglich sie weit weg von der Wand zu stellen. Daher hab ich überlegt die Bassreflex Rohre auf die Unterseite zu verlegen. Die Frequenzweiche würde dann an die Seite wandern. Denkst du das funktioniert ohne Einbußen? Grüße nach Köln.
Hi, wenn du nicht das entsprechende Messequipment hast, wird es schwer. Auch der Abstand zum Ständer oder Boden ist das eine Varaible, puh, ehrlich..nicht nicht gemacht...Weiche auf jeden Fall extern, auch klingen die Lintons wandnah nicht schlecht, da zählen andere Dinge mehr... cheers Mike
Hi Just Purchased a Pair of Wharfedale Linton 2 Speakers as a Do Upper Project,And Wanted to Replace the Capacitors in them,I'm not sure what Capacitors to replace them with, here is the old caps that were in the speakers maybe you could tell me what to replace them with.....el cap 10 mfd 50v and 25 mfd 50v ...Something not to expensive as im a Beginner and its my firs project.Your help would be very grateful. Thank you.
Hi, in this high value ranger i prefer the blue Jantzen standard zCaps ( not so big ), or, if you want it cheaper the Cross Caps ( mutiple in parallel is a way to added with a good cap like Miflex to reach the exact value ) try it out 😀... Cheers Mike
Did you solder wires directly to the speakers?
Hi, ok ok, i will say it... :) sure, you see the parts of connectors, i cut it all away and soldered it directly to the speakers but!!! NOT to the cable tongue, but direct to the soldering point of speakerwire!! Soldering must be fast, not to hot. Cheers Mike
Hello Mike, I have done mods from your video and I am very pleased with the sound. It certainly makes the improvments that you say it does. I found an easy way to remove the tweeter covers without damage.Use a stanley knife blade! My only problem is removing the nasty connectors from the tweeter I’m worried about damaging the tweeter connections themselves because the connectors are very tight,
any ideas? Many thanks from an Englishman living in Spain.
Hi David, nice that you hear it as much as I do. These male connectors on the speakers are prohibited. I rarely get upset;), but solving them alone is punishable and then they punish the ear. You can bend them up with wire cutters, or you lift the tabs up with a small screwdriver. Or just hold the fastening point with the screwdriver and pull, all your risk :) :) good luck, Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Thanks Mike, Ive soldered the tweeters now and the results are fantastic.There is no grain at all in the music and pianos sound lovely.Thanks again.
Hi, Mike, I want to upgrade my Soundartist ls3/5a speaker crossover. So I disassembled the speaker and took a photo, The parts looks cheap. But I don't know how to start. Could you give me your advice?
Sorry, i can only recommend things i have seen and heard.. cheers Mike
And what is you opinión of the Linton after the upgrading ?
Hi, finally the necessary details that the original lacks. Cheers Mike
Very interesting, will you share the buildingplan and value's of the components?
Hi, please watch my newer video about Lintons...Surpreme ....and read all comments 😉 cheers Mike
Hi great videos,
just was confused when I took a look at the Caps they put in parallel. For example the 68uf/50V with the 18uF/250V on the woofer.
Same thing on the mid (8,2uf + 22uf) and tweeter (6,8 + 0,68).
Do you know why they do this? And can I replace those two by a higher quality cap with the value of the sum of those two?
With Bypass caps I usally thought they use something like a 0,1uf. Also I thought putting different caps in parallel introduces phase shift.
Speed :) and space... never heard phase shift...cheers Mike
There are resistor 2.2ohm right before the tweeter. I really want to get it out for the tweeter more brighter. Did you do did before sir?
Hi, if you do that the tweeter will play louder, not brighter and it will be damaged uf you play loud. Change tje blue cap as shown and you will have more details, change the resistors to Mundorf Surpreme... cheers Mike
Schönes Video, ich habe die Diamond 11 und finde den Hochton zu bedämpft. Es kling im Vergleich zu meinen sonance so als ob sie hinter einem dicken Vorhang stehen. Hast du einen Tipp für mich?
Hi, klar, caps tauschen wenigstens auf Jantzen blue Standard Zcap, HT bypass mit 0,1 Miflex wie im Video beschrieben. Die Kabel entdämpfen, die Weiche auf Holzklötze montieren, Schaumstoff darunter entfernen... leider verwendet WD immer die selben mittelklasse Bauteile, der Hochtonkond. ist aber unterdurchschnittlich. Gerne mehr per Mail mit Bildern der Weiche...und Schaltplan, leider nix auf die Schnelle zu finden...auch kein gutes Zeichen...cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 ich schicke dir gerne eine Mail mit Bildern der Weiche, habe auch von der kleineren 11.0 (ich habe die 11.3) und entsprechenden Upgrades. Denke aber, dass diese sich nicht unterscheiden. Komme aus Herne 😃 danke dir schon mal
Hi Mike! do you think that my linton s 85th would have that much difference in dynamics and oppenedness with a mcintosh ma 252,ps im quite hesitant to work on the speaker but if as they all say have a big difference i would do it, i know how to solder, also should i use a special kind of solder thanks!!
Hi, use silver solder and believe me, you will be surprised hiw good the Lintons will play after tuning. Read comments for more informations cheers and have fun Mike
Hi,
warum bleibt der 15uF Kondensator im Hochtonzweig unangetastet?
wäre dort ein Z-cap nicht wirklich besser?
hery
Hi, es geht um die Beseitigung des Problems des Lautsprechers. Und das Problem ist dieser Dreckskondensator in Weiss, die Gelben sind erstaunlich gut. Mehr machen kann man immer... :) ZB mit den neueren Rike QCap 3 :), schlimm ist der 22er Elko... cheers Mike
Hi, can anyone provide me with the brands and right specifications for the resistors and capacitors for this upgrade? Thank You
Please read the comments you will find more to do...cheers Mike
Good morning. At about 11 minutes ... you can see the two crossovers ... pre and post modification ... but I can't see where she removed that white block in the upgrade version from. Both in the first image and in the second there are always 6 white blocks, so I ask, has it been replaced or eliminated completely? thank you
Hi, please watch my later videos and read all comments, much more good informations...cheers Mike
if I put an 68uf instead of 80 one on to bass section this will impact sound? in witch way?
Hi, you change the Crossover point, if you will hear it ? I dont know..measure it, sure...stay with original value, maybe 2 in parallel cheers Mike
Thank you very much, this video is very useful.
I'd like to buy some Wharfedale Evo 4.4, but I've seen they have high harmonic distortion (also the Lintons). Do you think this or other changes can improve it?
If you want I can send you the link with the measurements and the crossover pic
Hi, sure change the tweeter caps and resistors as with the lintons. Sorry, no time to check all this out... Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Thank you! Can you recommend some Jantzen capacitors with a neutral sound? It doesn't matter the price
@@Jack181996 Hi, Jantzen Superior ZCap is for me the Eierlegendewollmilchsau.. ( you can use it everywhere :) ), others like silver or amber must match with your rig... cheers Mike
Could you tell me how many resistors did you change on the crossover ? What is the power of these Mundorf resistors ? 5w or 10w ? How many resistors for each crossover and I think only one Jentzen Audio cap per crossover.
Hi! A quick question. If I replace the bass coil of 2.4 mH with a 2.5 mH It will impact a lot the sound? It is ok or maybe not? For a 2.5 mH air coil to reach 2.4 how much of the wire should be taken off maybe somewhat around half a turn?
Hi, other coil other sound... buy a measuring device and make it exact..if you will hear the difference 2,5 to 2,4 maybe with different resistance of the coils?? Maybe with much expirience or check by 🙃Measurement...The danger is that by exchanging all coils and capacitors you will move away from the original sound through interactions and only poke around in nirvana ...cheers Mike
www.amazon.de/Kapazit%C3%A4t-Induktivit%C3%A4t-Widerstand-Batterie-Krokodilklemme/dp/B07DW4RNYR/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=lcr+meter&qid=1639660336&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFWNzRKV0JCVlI4SEwmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwNTI5NTUySUhaR0o0Nk9DNEwxJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5NzM5NjIzOFFCQVdZR1ZSSUc0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
or better :)
@@headquarteraudio5388 Still waiting for the coils to arrive this days, I purchased an cheap tester that can do also inductance. Beside that I want to share my bad experience with lintons after I upgraded the crossovers. It seems that the manufacturing design for the tweeters it is really poor and with sloppy QC. After upgrading the crossovers this could be a problem because it is going to be revealed. The tweeter has the diaphragm centered only by two protrusions on the magnet that match 2 holes on the plastic ring with the 2 ears that keep the contacts and the diaphragm itself. The holes not match perfectly the protrusions and the diaphragm will wave a lose play of almost an mm...then never will be perfectly centered on magnet.After upgrading the crossovers and opened the highs when testing each speakers individually noticed that one of them has much lower highs and also less resolutions. The first reaction was that I have done something wrong with the crossovers but quickly excluded all the reasons that could be wrong and also moved the tweeter between speakers and the problem moved with it...clear different performance from the bad one. Inspected it close and noticed that the screws that centered that plastic ring over diaphragm where inegal screwed and after taking apart noticed that even the diaphragm coil was glued crocked and has manufacturing defects. After speaking with the store from which I purchased them...even if already I invalidated the warranty they sent me a new tweeter ...a denton one...they should be in fact identical the same tweeter same model number...in linton also on the back of the tweeter is written denton...only difference is the contact ears they are same width ...the thinner one. Was happy that finally I will resolve the problem of bad linton tweeter but when it arrived and installed...I instantly drop face...the tweeter sounded almost the same as the bad one replaced :(. After different try with the same result , because noticed some different markings on the magnets between the 2 of them as a last resort I switched the more good diaphragm from the new denton one to the magnet of older one...and voila ...this was it ...now match the other one. Then as a warning modding the crossover to better one could reveal the quality of tweeters that are not so great as manufacturing and QC.
@@Sorin_F Hi, unfortunately you mix something up here. You had a tweeter that was defective, it was replaced for you. (I would have found it better if you would have been given 2 pieces) Now you have mixed new and old ... well, I would not have done that, not even a magnet swap. But that has nothing to do with the crossover, since this tuning is intended for functioning tweeters / loudspeakers and makes it sound much better. Greetings and have fun on your further tuning path, Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 The other one it was not old had only 3 weeks. The speakers are new purchased. What I want to underline is that we should pay more attention on the linton tweeters, because it seems that they are not so carefully done and had some large sound variations. Because, this upgrading crossovers could more easily and abruptly reveal this flaws that could be not so evident with less revealing crossovers. Now I am content with them after switching the magnets they sound pretty much the same matching the quality of the better one.
Hi Mike or anyone watching this thread.
Do you happen to know the value of the other resisters on the crossover boards? I believe they are the next worst parts. When I finally modify my speakers I may change them as well if I have the parts.
Thanks for any help.
Mike G.
Hi, no sorry, Lintons are out of the house, the customer is happy...Cheers Mike
Hi Mike! Wondering on this crossover upgrade; is this something you can perform if the parts are send to you?
Mike my dear, I’ve found the songs you list down the description but do not match the music you’re playing …. Can you tell me what was the last song I really love it!
Hi honey, all song are from this cd.. www.amazon.de/-/en/Bill-Bourne/dp/B0009WFSXS/ref=sr_1_11?crid=38D664S84GQ6W&keywords=eivor&qid=1642802648&sprefix=eivor%2Caps%2C74&sr=8-11
Last song is song number one of the album :) ( the list is from youtube ) Cheers Mike
Hi everyone and thanks to Mike. I recently got lintons and I really like them (I used to have Denton 85s). I turn to those who have made the ugrade to the crossover because, soon, I would like to do it too, but I have a fear: I hate sibilant tweeters (I like the lintons precisely for the "sweet" tweeter), I would not want to change them at the crossover it made the tweeter harsh and sibilant (especially with vocals). Can you tell me something to dispel my doubts? Thanks
Hi, I hate that too, so don't worry ... but I have to tell you that mostly the tweeter reacts to inconsistencies in the system ... also a sign that the system is starving for power ...: ) ... more by mail or phone..cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Thanks Mike :)
@@faustocatalioti739 Gerne!! Please watch my new video today about fresh!!! ( no burn in ) Linton Tuning Cheers MIke
@@headquarteraudio5388 Hi Mike, please write a link for new video :)
So many repetitive questions. I don't know how you put up with it Mike.
Hi, I'm dreaming about it... 😀no, it's all good, I enjoy it, only some of them get too personal, I sometimes lose my joy... (tuning videos for the Ares II) I'm still holding on... Thank you Cheers Mike
Hola
me podria decir alguien que componentes debo comprar para el upgrade de las linton?
Gracias
Hi, bitte lies die Videobeschreibung und sieh dir auch die weiteren Videos an. Wichtige Zusatzinfos findest du in den Kommentaren aller Videos cheers Mike
Hola, lea la descripción del video y también vea los otros videos. Puedes encontrar información adicional importante en los comentarios de todos los videos saludos Mike
Whatever is changed inside the speaker regarding the crossover, you will be literally changing the end result of the speakers...there are no problems if you change the speakers as long as it’s for the “better”...
Hi, ohoh, but my experiences are different ... there are extreme sound differences with the same values but different manufacturers, and not every better (more expensive) component also sounds better, believe me, I have a box full of components worth thousands . :) Cheers Mike
Hi Mike!
How do Mundorf M-Resist Supreme resistors sound?
Also, do you think there are better resistors with a similar price? Thank you!
Hi, they sound near not, like a piece of wire :), maybe better is a foil resistor with heatsink... cheers Mike
guten Morgen Mike ich habe dich gerade entdeckt. Bitte empfiehlst du mir die Lin
ton als gut Lautsprechern für jazz Klassik Music ,meine Wohnzimmer ist 30 m Quadrat und meine Abstand Von Lautsprechern Sitzplatz ist fast 4 m. Und welche Vollverstärker mit Streaming und Phone Anschlüsse als Kombination Wärst du mir empfehlen Max 1500€Was meinst du mit zum Beispiel eine linn ds1?Liebe Gruß danke
Hi, mit den Lintons kann man sehr lange sehr gut Musik hören, auch mal laut. Besser aber mit meinem Tuning. Ich würde mir nie ein Gerät kaufen, dass alles in sich vereint. Es kann alles, aber nichts richtig :) Lieber einzelen Geräte kaufen. Vollverstärker mit Empfehlung: Kinki Studio 2020 Version EX M1 Cheers Mike
HI Mike, If I use Jantzen Cap Superior, does it change the sound completely? Thank You!
No, i can only say, i did not like the sound of Superior Jantzens, its mmhhh how to say...smooth and without many overtones, boring for me. Better with Audyn Tri Reference with SSG01 or like my current solution Jantzen Standard ZCap with 0.68 Miflex KPCU shunt, but with Mundorf Superior resistors cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 thank you Mike !
Hello ! Great upgrade with this beautiful speakers. Bravo! On your photo of crossover after upgrade, where is the Mundorf resistance ? I can't see this part. And also, what's the 3 black screws with old parts ? Thanks a lot.
Hi, please read comments, there are more infos hidden :)That was seven months ago, maybe I just had it on the workbench ... or was it the terminal on the bass ... ?? Sorry getting old ... :) Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Ok no problem ! :) Thanks
Hey Mike, well done.
which cable (Manufacturer or type) was used for bass and midrange?
Would it be better if the electrolytic capacitor had also been replaced?
Thank you for the videos and the expertise they convey.
thx
m
Hi, the manufacturer of the cable is unknown, unfortunately the cable is too soft, but where the replacement is most worthwhile, you can't get it, with the tweeter. Elocap is bypassed with foilcap, so very good made crossover. Cheers Mike
😊Try removing the crossover and rolling the tweeter off with a 2mf cap on the tweeter.. Hard wire the bass speaker wire directly to the woofer.. It looks like a very complicated crossover... Russ Andrews did this 2 a pair of Spendor BC1S and he sells a simple kit which he says improves them considerably
Thanks, watch my super duper crossover upgrade video.. cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388I have practiced what I preach and removed 1 of those white resistors from tweeters on my Tannoys... And just left the 2 mf cap in place.. The detail is exactly as u said.... I havent done the woofer yet because they are large
Hi Mike :) The capacitor and resistor only effect on the tweeter ? from the video its sound like all the speaker sound open now not just the tweeter
thank you :)
Hi, yes, since instruments naturally sound over a wide frequency range (distributed across the chassis), it is important that the harmonics and sound quality of all chassis are equivalent. Since the treble branch was muffled, the instruments sound now more correct, faster, more open, simply more realistic after modifying the treble components via the tweeter. Music! Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Today i notice i order 2.2R 20W Mundorf M-Resist Supreme Resistor . is this ok ? i ask because it 20W .
thank you
@@nircohen7080 hi, thats ok, best solution at this point, enjoy! Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Hi Mike, i just finish to upgrade the crossover and WOWWWWW what amazing change. all the sound open and the linton sound like Hi-End speaker. Thank you so much for all your support and sharing all your knowledge with us.
Hello mike did the upgrades but I don’t hear any difference does it need burn in time ?
Hi, of course, but you should hear the difference right away ... Cheers Mike
Hi Mike
Although I don't have these speakers I have watched the "Linton" tweak videos several times. I bought the Wharfedale Evo 4.2 speakers. They are great looking speakers, seem very well made and have a great sound but I would be very interested to know if there were any similar tweaks that could be made to improve the sound. Although they sound very good they are not the most dynamic and seem lack a bit of punch in the upper bass / lower mid range.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, you have a new subscriber based in Ireland.
Hi, unfortunately, I can't find any pictures of the crossover on the Internet, which is strange. But there is also price pressure here, so no good and somewhat more expensive components will have been used here. Caution is also required here, as the tweeter is sensitive to changes. What you should do is solder the cable connections to the chassis, also straight on the back of the terminal. Then switch to singel wire right away, then you can remove the bridges on the outside (if you don't do biwireing) The thin metal sheets on the inside must best be removed completely and the bare wires soldered on with a strong soldering iron. Maybe that will bring you enough dynamics All at your own risk :) have fun Cheers Mike
Same here with 4.3's - Get rid of the terminal bridge like the man said! Improves dynamics.... I didn't resolder, just join the terminals with a 4 inch section of your cable, then I soldered on some tight fitting BFA connectors to the main speaker cable. I would love to know what's inside, quality wise. Not sure whether to keep them though!
@@peterlarkin762 Hi Peter, I made my own jumpers and was amazed at the difference it made. Haven't delved any further tweak wise. The Evos have a great sound and look but they are a little too laid back for my tastes. If I can find a worthy replacement I will have to find a new home for the Evo's.
@@garethbrownlee5457 Hi, tweak them, you can save a lot of money..:) cheap resistors will kill dynamics... Cheers MIke
Mike, a final question. In the image of your upgraded crossover I can easily identify the Jantzen cap, but I cannot see the Mundorf resistor. Maybe I’m too old to see it, but I would like to know which one of the resistors did you precisely changed.
Is there a benefit of changing all the resistors since they seems to be of the same low quality of the chosen one? Thanks and regards!
Hi Mike! Das gleiche Problem habe ich leider auch. Wo genau du den Mundorf Resistor eingebaut/ausgetauscht hast, erschließt sich mir leider auch nicht. Das mag an meinem fehlenden Fachwissen liegen, trotzdem würde ich micht über eine weiterführende Erklärung sehr freuen. Ansonsten ein super Video, vielen Dank!
Hi, sorry, I'm not getting any younger ... :) of course the resistor is missing in the photo, I only decided later to swap it because I only had this value in stock. In front of the blue Jantzen there are 2 resistors shown (on the other side behind it is a round air coil), of which it is the 2.2 Ohm resistor. Please report the result here :) Cheers Mike
@@davidgomorrah2977 Hi, sorry, ich werde auch nicht jünger... :) natürlich fehlt der Widerstand auf dem Foto, hatte mich erst später dazu entschlossen, diesen zu tauschen, da ich auch nur genau diesen Wert vorrätig hatte. Vor dem blauen Jantzen sind 2 Widerstände abgebildet ( auf der anderen Seite dahinter ist eine runde Luftspule ), davon ist es der 2.2 Ohm Widerstand. Bitte berichtet hier um das Ergebnis :) Cheers Mike
wollte noch fragen welchen 2,2 ohm widerstand du geändert hast auf der platine ? und warum hast du die kabelbinder entfernt von den spulen ? macht das sound mäßig einen unterschied ? danke für die antwort schonmal ^^
Hi, äußerer oberer rechter Widerstand rechts neben dem Jantzen, und bitte lies die Kommentare. Da steht dann noch mehr.. ,:) Ich entferne immer die Kabelbinder, weil man es nicht schafft beim festzurren immer die gleiche Spannung zu erreichen, daher klingen die Bauteile links und rechts immer unterschiedlich. Wenn sie dann zu fest angezogen wurden, wird das Klangbild klein bis stressig.. Viele Grüße Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 ah okay vielen dank für die Antwort :) okay das wusste ich noch nicht daß sich dadurch der Klang verändert, wieder was dazu gelernt :D Gruß Sven
Hi Mike, do you have any experience with Dynaudio crossover, more specifically the entry level?
Hi, unfortunately not.... sorry... :) Cheers Mike
Hi Mike do you offer this service .ie can I get Linton s to you and have the mod/tweak be performed?
Hi, sure......please write me per email 3w.headquarteraudio.de, or see here in the account discription Cheers Mike
The Wharfedale Denton 85th Anniversary badly needs a crossover tweak because it's too bright and fatiguing, especially with ride cymbals, hi-hats, brushes and female voices. Speaker designer Peter Comeau of Wharfedale says he doesn't like speakers that want to impress you with bass and treble, yet the treble of the Denton 85th is overly strong. It's activating my tinnitus. What's your take on it, Headquarter Audio? Have you auditioned the Denton 85th Anniversary?
Hi, to buy the Lintons ? :) Sometimes there is something wrong in the rig, maybe Sherlock is needed. Never heard the Dentons, but they have i think the same cap as the Lintons,and they never sound bright...cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Yes, the Lintons are not bright (thank god!) but Dentons 85th are. I know because I have both Linton and Denton. Some people even put a 1 Ohm resistor between the bi-wire connection of the Denton to make the treble less overwhelming. I never heard of this tweak (can't find any info on the internet either) and that's probably why I was wondering about a crossover tweak. The Dentons need it more than the Lintons.
@@cremersalex Hi, i found this comment: They are only bright when you connect them according to Wharfedale’s recommendations, which is diagonal wiring. However, when you connect them using only the HF connectors (bridged to LF), the sharpness in the treble is gone. Do this and you’ll have very good speakers. Maybe try it. I dont have the Dentons and cant find a sheet of the crossover...cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Hehehe ... That advice came from me, and while it helps, it is still somewhat too bright and there seems to be less depth to the music. Of course, differences are just subtle. Anyway, thank you for giving it some thought, HEADquarter Audio. Who knows, maybe the speakers will eventually change (smoothen) over time.
Kann man bei den EVO 4.4 auch noch was raus holen?
Hi, na klar. Allein das anlöten der Kabel ist schon ein Sprung, endlich keine stressigen Höhen, kein ausgezehrtes Klangbild mehr. Leider habe ich diese nicht hier, sonst hätte es mich schon in den Fingern gejuckt...Cheers Mike
Bought a pair of Linton 85 a week ago at local dealer. It was a demo pair so fairly "broken in". I listened to them in the shop with a Cambridge EVO 150 class D amp. I fell in love with the sound directly. So I took them home and connected them to my Caiyn MT-35 tube amp. Greatly disappointed! Not at all as in shop. Tested with a Monacor STA-125 studio amp. No difference. Tested with Naim Uniti2. No difference (or at least not satisfied). So I hook it to my Carver Cinema 2x400W amp using Naim as pre amp. Much better, but still not great and far from what I liked in the shop. Must be the acoustic treatment of my room then, because moving the speakers around with any of the amps did'nt help. Strange because other speakers sound good in my listening room. The sound could best be described as "meh"! Flat and boring, no punch and grainy mids and highs. So finally, I use my Crown XLS 2502, 2x775W/4ohms, class D, as last try before returning speakers to shop. BANG.....I get exactly that sweet and wonderful sound we heard in the shop. Super tight, controlled, non sibliant, airy and punchy sound. Just like being there. Now they sound far better than my Martin Logans or any other expensive speakers I've had. I think those speakers are suckers for high power, or rather control. The class D type may be a factor here? Usually I don't care much for class D as I have heard them, but in this case it made all difference in the world. I will soon move on with capacitor and resistor upgrade and see what that will bring me, but first I had to do something to make the originals sound decent. And now, man they do!
Nice review, thanks. Class d is the future, some manufacturer did it 10 years ago... control and speed is all... with the right harmonics cheers Mike
Hi Mike, can we changed all the resistors to mundoff.
Hi, of course, but remember that the Mundorf Surpreme have load-bearing capacity. Before they burn out, the driver will burn out (possibly). I would do it and take the risk, but all without a guarantee.🤗 Cheers Mike
Master, good afternoon, I am impressed with you. Thanks for sharing your talent. Can you give us more details on the two components you changed or suggest better ones? Thanks a lot. Best regards from Perú.
Hi, I only changed two components because I didn't want to change the set-up too much. If you want to take more and use expensive parts, welcome, but you can also do too much;), then it's more towards taste ... Cheers Mike (please read the comment and the description)
@@headquarteraudio5388 thanks for reply, My question is, since I can't find the standard Z-CAP, can I use the superior Z-CAP? the capacitor voltage, it is relevant??
@@gastonguev Hi, yes, of course you can use that. It can only be a little big in size that it doesn't fit on the board, but there is enough space next to it. The Superior sounds a bit finer with more timbres, but costs almost 10 times as much ... Cheers Mike
Hi, very interesting. Do you know some mod for Wharfdale Evo 4.2?
Hi, no, sorry, i dont have them here...and i am buisy this time because of the development of new suspension for Jays Audio CDT2 Mk3. Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Thanks
Beautiful sounds coming out of your Lintons. What artist did you use to showcase your upgrade? Such beautiful music. Job well done friend.
Hi, thanks for the nice work. Just to confirm, the 2.2 ohm resistor to change is the one at the left bottom corner when looking at your “completed” crossover in the video?
Hi, it is the one of the two at right side of the blue Jantzen at the outside of the crossover cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 thank you. Just to be doubly sure, it is one of the pair of resistors that are just beside the Jantzen cap, the one that is at the very edge of the pcb?
@@patrickgoh493 yes, as i said or better i tried it... :) Cheers Mike
HI Mike, can i use 8.2uF instead 6.8Uf ? thank you
Hi, sorry, no! You will change the tuning of the speaker, maybe the driver is driven too low and you destroy it. Cheers Mike
Did you do a before and after measurement to justify the improvements?
Hi, sure, with my ears.. and my customers, read the comments please... :) Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 lol...
Good work👍🏻😉 to remove the tweeter you can try a saugy (Saugnapf). I'm sure it will work.
An other tuning option would be to fill the struts of the mid driver with a hot glue pistol or metal knead.
Cheers from Berlin.
Hi, no never use damping mat, rubber or glue. If you want to get rid of metal tone of the struts use TESA or Tape, just a little piece on every strut-no damping...cheers Mike
To be honest, they still sound overly warm and too rich in the low mids. I bought these speakers too and feel they could do with a little more 'air' and the low mids need to be severely 'tamed' (reduced). I tried several amps, different cables, changed their position, even played with tone controls, but I can't get them to sound better. And I can't hear any difference with your tweak either but that could be due to your mic.
Hi, try my mod and read the comments please :) tweeter mod will effect the complete speaker...cheers Mike
Hi, would you do this on the denton 85?
Hi, sure, the tweeter will profit there too... but i never heard the dentons..is there a lack of details und depth? Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 i have nothing to compare it to. but I assume it would. curiosity is driving me to try. what if i change all of the resistors? is the tweeter resistor on the HF bit? The dentons are bi wired. does this complicate things?
@ Hi, of course, you can swap all of the resistors, but the voicing can change. Therefore, look for the resistor or resistors in front of the white capacitor and exchange them, and the wihte cap for Jantzen Standard or Superior same value. Since it is a recommendation of mine to solder the cables and I am not a friend of biwirering, you can only choose one input and solder the cables inside and place them on the lower two terminals ( + and - ), for example, with a extern normal cable the sheet metal bridges are omitted . That is a great sound advantage. Have fun, no guarantee from me, as I don't know the speaker and don't know how fit you are in this area :) Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 hi mike. do you mean in front of as in the first resistor on the HF that the signal from the amp meets?
Thanks for the Great advice, Mike. I have a pair of Wharfedale Denton 80th anniversary speaker and it suffers the exact problems described by you: lack of details, clarity, airiness and finesse in the tweeter, the sound becomes compressed at high volume.
I am going to do the same modification to the Denton to see how much it can improve from the upgrade .
interressantes Video Mike, ich fand die Lintons für den Preis scho immer sehr lecker und optisch äüßerst ansprechend. Das Ergebnis für so ein "einfaches" Tuning ist beachtlich. Musik auch sehr gut, kannt ich noch nit. Warum machs du deine Videos eigtl. nicht in deutsch oder in deutsch /englisch ? Auf jedenfall weiter so tolle Tips und Tricks, viel Spass beim Musikhören und schöne Feiertage nach Kölle . Gruß Chris aus Wuppertal
Hi, danke. Leider ist das alles schon sehr viel Arbeit. Der Output ist so gering, reicht nicht mal zum Essen gehen, daher bleibt es auf kleiner Flamme...Frohes Neues und beste Grüße cheers Mike
I've travelled on the mono-rail in visit to Wuppertal, it was great but very busy.
Really good video.! - I bought a pair of Linton SP2 but they do not work, they sound terrible. They looked in amazing condition I only paid £20 in charity shop in England. Maybe they are blown from previous owner or it is something wrong in the crossover? Greetings from England my friend. Your system sounds incredible just with these Linton speakers!
Yeah, thank you!! :) Cheers Mike
HI Mike! I have just studied the circuit a little and for the tweeter, you can also replace the yellow capacitor (684J) because it is mounted with the one you changed. Basically, it serves as a filter. Its value is 0.68uf. So much for the info. Don't you plan to change all the other resistances? I think the sound would be much more liberated. Have a good time with these jewels!
Hi, thank you very much, I know that. You can find many more good tips in the comments. The more you change, the more the sound changes, whether it is correct and sounds good, only you can decide, but then it has nothing to do with the planned manufacturer sound ... I just tried to eliminate the drop in height and details that I noticed . Cheers Mike
@@headquarteraudio5388 Ok I understand your position. The proof that it's a very good speaker pair so ! 👍