If you are making cuts in a conventional manner, standing over the workpiece and the saw and using your dominant hand, then the safety switch isn't too bad. But, if you are not using your dominant hand, or you are forced to cut at awkward angles, or you are cutting while reaching up or working upside down, the safety switch becomes a burden. In remodeling and repair I am frequently forced to use circular saws in awkward, uncomfortable positions while still trying to maintain a perfect cut. That's when the safety switch just gets in the way.
I’ve used my old 18 volt all day. I just used to only buy the old 18 volt lithium batteries and I’d have about 6 of them on the job. I just bought this new 20v and it’s a huge improvement from the the 18. It’s got way more RPM. The old 18 had like 3800 and this new B version, 20 volt has 5150 RPM. Big improvement. I hate my skill 77 because it’s so heavy so I’ve always tried To just use my cordless stuff
@@enduringcharm I feel like the last holdout on making the switch! Lol I’ve had a handyman business for the last 12 years and bought all this 18 volt stuff. I literally have so many of their tools. Shoot I have all the 18 volt impacts; circular saws, sawz all, porta band etc.. and I used to only use lithium 18 volt batteries that costed an obscene amount of money. And I didn’t think there’d be that much of a difference in power. I always hated the 18v sawz all because it just took forever to cut. It is really a slow rpm and would go thru lithium batteries like crazy just to use it for a short while. This new 20 volt stuff, (which is still actually 18 volt) is way more powerful. I think what they did was was just sped up the RPM’s on all their tools, and the new batteries have more amp hours so they hold a charge better. Like this new sawz all is damn near as good as my old porter cable corded one. I was so happy when I first used it last month while building a fence. Sometimes it’s just a big pain in the ass getting an extension cord out and finding power for just a couple cuts. Same with the circular saw. It’s way better than my old 18volt. But that adapter that Dewalt sells as a solution to the battery problem they created is just comical. No one wants to use that thing, it’s ridiculous. Anyways I’ve rambled enough 😃
I was in the same boat with the investment in batteries, I typically keep six or eight of them on my trailer. I also find myself using cordless tools more often now, although if I have a lot of ripping to do or some heavy demo work I'll still reach for a corded model.
No, it really doesn't. I think the delay might be related to the different battery technology but I'm not sure. For most people it won't be an issue, other than you need to pause half a second to let the blade spin up.
@@enduringcharm Yea with lithium battery the electronics in it are going to be more modern and capable so I was thinking the blade braking on it should be better too. Was thinking maybe thats why there is the delay because its releasing the brake when you pull the trigger? More than likely though if you say it isn't my guess than is they just figured out how to make the crappy trigger cheaper and thats where the delay is coming in. lol
Actually in the older tools the switch is inline with the power. On newer tool there is a microprocessor in it so the switch is nothing more than a button that tell the microprocessor you want it on. Could just be some engineer decided somewhere it should have so much delay for safety or something.
Yes, the 20 volt family all works the same, it's just that some of the batteries have longer run times. A higher "amp-hour" rating or number equates to a bigger battery and more run time.
Debating on this vs a 7-1/4. As a home owner & semi pro. My old 18v was only a 5-1/2 still turned out to be surprisingly useful because so light and handy. Of course still need a bigger saw at times but it would be a corded saw. 7 a bit hard to use one handed but would do it all. The 6-1/2 is about the same weight as the old 5 so can still one hand. Also for 7 really need a bigger like 8ah batt to get the most out of it, expensive, heavy. 7 is also blade right which I don't prefer. 6 finally much cheaper and 5ah batts I have would work fine.
I didn't even realize they made a 7 1/4 cordless. The price is preposterous! You didn't mention what you do with the saw. That's really the important factor. If you work in a shop environment cutting plywood or occasional framing lumber I'd say just skip the cordless and get a nice corded saw. I have an old Porter Cable Saw Boss I use for shop work on sheet goods. If you are doing framing work cutting 2x all day I would also push you toward a corded saw. But, if you are doing various DIY projects on weekends and need an all around saw with the convenience of battery, I'd say this saw in the video with a 5 amp hour battery will be just fine. Same goes for pro work when you want a convenient saw to keep on the truck.
When I said it's an "occasional use" saw, I didn't mean that it isn't professional grade. I meant that, as a battery operated saw with limited depth of cut, it is appropriate for occasional use during the work day. If I know I'll be on a job and I'll need to make a handful of cuts on during the day this is a great option. Maybe I'm cutting some plywood down to size or cutting off a couple of door bottoms. This is quick to set up and the batteries will easily last through that work. However, if I know I'll be doing framing or sheathing all day, or laying new plywood underlayment, or cutting up an existing floor for demo, then I'll pack a corded circular saw. A corded saw simply has more power, greater depth of cut, and better durability.
why wouldnt you be able to reno a bathroom with this? How much cutting are you doing with a circular saw i nthe bathroom? even cutting out the subfloor is fine with a single 5 amp battery
I don't always use a circular saw in removing underlayment (a subfloor is the first layer of plywood over the joists and I rarely need to remove that). When I do, however, I use a disposable corded saw dedicated to the task. The process is physically demanding on the saw not just because the blade is cutting through nails, staples, thinset and pieces of tile, but because the shoe of the saw is catching on tile remnants and debris. I often need to force the saw through the mess, and it's important that the depth setting of the shoe does not change while I'm wrestling with the saw or else I will cut through to the subfloor. A $30 corded circular saw with a demo blade is not something I worry about, but I wouldn't risk an expensive corded or cordless saw on demo. Even if the saw survives, you risk a bent shoe or other damage which will make the saw useless for precision work. Another factor is the length of the saw. A $30 corded circular saw is compact and can get started close to a wall. The cordless saw has a battery sticking out the back which limits close quarters. A modest sized bath I'll demo alone in half a day, a large master bath will take nearly a whole day, so I don't have time to baby tools during that phase. Better, more expensive tools I save for construction phases.
@@enduringcharm a ok thanks, i have one hamer drill xr whit a 20 volts max battery, but the battery is 2 amps, can i use that battery for this saw or i need to buy another battery whit more amps
You can use any dewalt 20 volt system battery. They come in various amp-hour sizes, and your 2.0 amp hour is the smallest of the bunch, if I remember correctly. That just means that you won't get as long out of a single charge as a larger battery like a 4.0 or 5.0 amp hour. These saws do tend to require a lot of power so you'll probably want to get a bigger battery at some point, or else you'll be sitting by the charger a lot!
There is no adjustment stop, but the accuracy is good from the factory. I mean, on a hand-held circular saw perfect accuracy is an illusion anyway, unless you have been fitted with a robotic arm. These saws are meant for field work, after all. For engineering-level ripping accuracy a table saw is a better choice.
I have the DCS391B that's practically new and has no power. It literally takes about 30 seconds to get 12 inches into a sheet of OSB. It is constantly bogging on anything (although I haven't tried it much). Frustrating at best. I have 4 batteries, all 1.5AH that came with my two new drills. So, these are new batteries. I don't think it's the batteries. Did I get a dud? This saw has good reviews. My cheap BD corded runs circles around this thing.
Unfortunately, it is your batteries. Those 1.5 Amp hour batteries are a joke, and included in a tool package just so DeWalt can say they gave you a battery. Other youtubers have done testing which shows that there is a power difference with larger capacity batteries, not just a longer run time. I run 5 amp hour batteries for my Dewalt cordless tools, which have been very good. They make a 6 amp hour battery as well. If you purchase a 5 amp hour version I think you'll find your saw more useful. That said, no cordless circular saw is going to match the torque of a good corded saw. The physics just aren't there.
Usually whatever cordless tool I retire from the field gets sent to my shop, where it gets less critical use. I don't have too much need for a cordless circular saw in my shop, but maybe I'll keep it on hand as a backup until my supply of 18 volt batteries finally dies out.
DeWalt just came out with a New "Brushless" 6.5" blade left circular saw dcs565, its basically identical to the dcs391, except it has a led light and a rafter hook.....👍👍🍻🍻👌👌
Most disappointing thing about this saw is that it only cuts a bit under 2 inches. So, it only cuts a 2x4 on the long side. A simple offset motor would have given it that perfect 2.5 inch depth it needs to be a real saw. It's still an expensive toy saw, for light duty and only two specific functions. Cutting plywood and cutting flat-laid 2x4s. The blades are grippy and drift and bind easily too. Hard to get a good alignment on the blade with the guide being so far away from the actual cut and the view of the blade being obscured by the guard and the handle. A trick they surely did, to make the saw look beefy, at the sacrifice of actual function.
I hope DeWalt makes a new version of this circular saw with a brushless motor, LED light and raft hook soon.
YES they were Listening to yOU !!!
DCS565B- Less RPM than this one ???
Thanks just bought one!
the bevel screw on my saw was a joke as well.. I like your wing nut idea.. good video...
I find the newer one to be a lovely tool
I have used this tool for several years, I don’t see how the safety switch is awkward. Definitely agree the adjustment knob should be changed.
If you are making cuts in a conventional manner, standing over the workpiece and the saw and using your dominant hand, then the safety switch isn't too bad. But, if you are not using your dominant hand, or you are forced to cut at awkward angles, or you are cutting while reaching up or working upside down, the safety switch becomes a burden. In remodeling and repair I am frequently forced to use circular saws in awkward, uncomfortable positions while still trying to maintain a perfect cut. That's when the safety switch just gets in the way.
I’ve used my old 18 volt all day. I just used to only buy the old 18 volt lithium batteries and I’d have about 6 of them on the job.
I just bought this new 20v and it’s a huge improvement from the the 18. It’s got way more RPM. The old 18 had like 3800 and this new B version, 20 volt has 5150 RPM. Big improvement. I hate my skill 77 because it’s so heavy so I’ve always tried
To just use my cordless stuff
Yeah, the new battery system is unquestionably more powerful and longer lasting.
@@enduringcharm I feel like the last holdout on making the switch! Lol
I’ve had a handyman business for the last 12 years and bought all this 18 volt stuff. I literally have so many of their tools. Shoot I have all the 18 volt impacts; circular saws, sawz all, porta band etc.. and I used to only use lithium 18 volt batteries that costed an obscene amount of money. And I didn’t think there’d be that much of a difference in power.
I always hated the 18v sawz all because it just took forever to cut. It is really a slow rpm and would go thru lithium batteries like crazy just to use it for a short while. This new 20 volt stuff, (which is still actually 18 volt) is way more powerful. I think what they did was was just sped up the RPM’s on all their tools, and the new batteries have more amp hours so they hold a charge better. Like this new sawz all is damn near as good as my old porter cable corded one. I was so happy when I first used it last month while building a fence. Sometimes it’s just a big pain in the ass getting an extension cord out and finding power for just a couple cuts. Same with the circular saw. It’s way better than my old 18volt.
But that adapter that Dewalt sells as a solution to the battery problem they created is just comical. No one wants to use that thing, it’s ridiculous. Anyways I’ve rambled enough 😃
I was in the same boat with the investment in batteries, I typically keep six or eight of them on my trailer. I also find myself using cordless tools more often now, although if I have a lot of ripping to do or some heavy demo work I'll still reach for a corded model.
Hi, John , great video. When you say ‘regular’ saw, you referred to corded saw or bigger sized one?
I'd have to go listen again--I was probably referring to a standard corded circular saw.
I like mine pretty well. I'd like it better if it was a right handed saw.
With the delay in the start, does the blade slow down faster than the older saw?
No, it really doesn't. I think the delay might be related to the different battery technology but I'm not sure. For most people it won't be an issue, other than you need to pause half a second to let the blade spin up.
@@enduringcharm Yea with lithium battery the electronics in it are going to be more modern and capable so I was thinking the blade braking on it should be better too. Was thinking maybe thats why there is the delay because its releasing the brake when you pull the trigger? More than likely though if you say it isn't my guess than is they just figured out how to make the crappy trigger cheaper and thats where the delay is coming in. lol
Actually in the older tools the switch is inline with the power. On newer tool there is a microprocessor in it so the switch is nothing more than a button that tell the microprocessor you want it on. Could just be some engineer decided somewhere it should have so much delay for safety or something.
I think that's the real issue--the microprocessor has either a programmed or innate delay.
will any dewalt 20v battery work with these thanks
Yes, the 20 volt family all works the same, it's just that some of the batteries have longer run times. A higher "amp-hour" rating or number equates to a bigger battery and more run time.
@@enduringcharm ok thank you i.have the slim ones didnt know if they would work
Debating on this vs a 7-1/4. As a home owner & semi pro. My old 18v was only a 5-1/2 still turned out to be surprisingly useful because so light and handy. Of course still need a bigger saw at times but it would be a corded saw. 7 a bit hard to use one handed but would do it all. The 6-1/2 is about the same weight as the old 5 so can still one hand. Also for 7 really need a bigger like 8ah batt to get the most out of it, expensive, heavy. 7 is also blade right which I don't prefer. 6 finally much cheaper and 5ah batts I have would work fine.
I didn't even realize they made a 7 1/4 cordless. The price is preposterous! You didn't mention what you do with the saw. That's really the important factor. If you work in a shop environment cutting plywood or occasional framing lumber I'd say just skip the cordless and get a nice corded saw. I have an old Porter Cable Saw Boss I use for shop work on sheet goods. If you are doing framing work cutting 2x all day I would also push you toward a corded saw. But, if you are doing various DIY projects on weekends and need an all around saw with the convenience of battery, I'd say this saw in the video with a 5 amp hour battery will be just fine. Same goes for pro work when you want a convenient saw to keep on the truck.
@@enduringcharm DCS565B Brushless Version 6 1/2" or the 7 1/2 " Version
You're wrong about an occasional use saw, this saw is a professional grade saw and I love mine
When I said it's an "occasional use" saw, I didn't mean that it isn't professional grade. I meant that, as a battery operated saw with limited depth of cut, it is appropriate for occasional use during the work day. If I know I'll be on a job and I'll need to make a handful of cuts on during the day this is a great option. Maybe I'm cutting some plywood down to size or cutting off a couple of door bottoms. This is quick to set up and the batteries will easily last through that work. However, if I know I'll be doing framing or sheathing all day, or laying new plywood underlayment, or cutting up an existing floor for demo, then I'll pack a corded circular saw. A corded saw simply has more power, greater depth of cut, and better durability.
why wouldnt you be able to reno a bathroom with this? How much cutting are you doing with a circular saw i nthe bathroom? even cutting out the subfloor is fine with a single 5 amp battery
I don't always use a circular saw in removing underlayment (a subfloor is the first layer of plywood over the joists and I rarely need to remove that). When I do, however, I use a disposable corded saw dedicated to the task. The process is physically demanding on the saw not just because the blade is cutting through nails, staples, thinset and pieces of tile, but because the shoe of the saw is catching on tile remnants and debris. I often need to force the saw through the mess, and it's important that the depth setting of the shoe does not change while I'm wrestling with the saw or else I will cut through to the subfloor. A $30 corded circular saw with a demo blade is not something I worry about, but I wouldn't risk an expensive corded or cordless saw on demo. Even if the saw survives, you risk a bent shoe or other damage which will make the saw useless for precision work. Another factor is the length of the saw. A $30 corded circular saw is compact and can get started close to a wall. The cordless saw has a battery sticking out the back which limits close quarters. A modest sized bath I'll demo alone in half a day, a large master bath will take nearly a whole day, so I don't have time to baby tools during that phase. Better, more expensive tools I save for construction phases.
@@enduringcharm
That makes sense thank you
Can i use 18 volts batterys in this Saw? How ir works
No, the 18 volt system is the older one which is no longer sold.
@@enduringcharm a ok thanks, i have one hamer drill xr whit a 20 volts max battery, but the battery is 2 amps, can i use that battery for this saw or i need to buy another battery whit more amps
You can use any dewalt 20 volt system battery. They come in various amp-hour sizes, and your 2.0 amp hour is the smallest of the bunch, if I remember correctly. That just means that you won't get as long out of a single charge as a larger battery like a 4.0 or 5.0 amp hour. These saws do tend to require a lot of power so you'll probably want to get a bigger battery at some point, or else you'll be sitting by the charger a lot!
@@enduringcharm ok ok, thanks for your attention bro
Great tool for light work,a lil over a hunid bucs.well worth it. N thanx.
In the case of an out of the box discrepancy, is there any factory adjustment to zero the shoe/blade @ 90³?
There is no adjustment stop, but the accuracy is good from the factory. I mean, on a hand-held circular saw perfect accuracy is an illusion anyway, unless you have been fitted with a robotic arm. These saws are meant for field work, after all. For engineering-level ripping accuracy a table saw is a better choice.
I have the DCS391B that's practically new and has no power. It literally takes about 30 seconds to get 12 inches into a sheet of OSB. It is constantly bogging on anything (although I haven't tried it much). Frustrating at best. I have 4 batteries, all 1.5AH that came with my two new drills. So, these are new batteries. I don't think it's the batteries. Did I get a dud? This saw has good reviews. My cheap BD corded runs circles around this thing.
Unfortunately, it is your batteries. Those 1.5 Amp hour batteries are a joke, and included in a tool package just so DeWalt can say they gave you a battery. Other youtubers have done testing which shows that there is a power difference with larger capacity batteries, not just a longer run time. I run 5 amp hour batteries for my Dewalt cordless tools, which have been very good. They make a 6 amp hour battery as well. If you purchase a 5 amp hour version I think you'll find your saw more useful. That said, no cordless circular saw is going to match the torque of a good corded saw. The physics just aren't there.
@@enduringcharm Thanks so much. I’ll try a larger battery.
Corded saws still work well for consistent power delivery.
Yeah, not every tool is a good candidate for battery power. Still, this has it's uses in some circumstances.
Selling your old one?
Usually whatever cordless tool I retire from the field gets sent to my shop, where it gets less critical use. I don't have too much need for a cordless circular saw in my shop, but maybe I'll keep it on hand as a backup until my supply of 18 volt batteries finally dies out.
@@enduringcharm nuts
Sheesh, too much talking and obsessing with the trigger! Just cut to the chase, get it? Pun intended! LOL. Good video. Peace dude! 👍😁🇺🇸
DeWalt just came out with a New "Brushless" 6.5" blade left circular saw dcs565, its basically identical to the dcs391, except it has a led light and a rafter hook.....👍👍🍻🍻👌👌
Most disappointing thing about this saw is that it only cuts a bit under 2 inches. So, it only cuts a 2x4 on the long side. A simple offset motor would have given it that perfect 2.5 inch depth it needs to be a real saw. It's still an expensive toy saw, for light duty and only two specific functions. Cutting plywood and cutting flat-laid 2x4s. The blades are grippy and drift and bind easily too. Hard to get a good alignment on the blade with the guide being so far away from the actual cut and the view of the blade being obscured by the guard and the handle. A trick they surely did, to make the saw look beefy, at the sacrifice of actual function.