Another excellent video. I tend to lurk rather than comment but your videos are a well-received education for someone like me who is self-teaching themselves to make things with their lathe. I have Super 7 back at my home but I work abroad most of the year so normally don't have access to it. I have a teaching workshop where I am (I teach design in China) but I don't have a full size lathe here. Thank you for your dedication and quality content.
Hi John, Thank you for watching and for your feedback. The Super 7 is an excellent lathe. My brother has one that's in great condition. You have a good job teaching design. Regards Steve
Good evening Steve. My comment about the oilers I made was dedicated to this video. I did almost the same but in order to simplify the process I machined the top part with o'rings (same than the lower parts). I used also small brass bleeder valve to allow an easy refill and easy opening/closing for venting. Thanks again for the great idea. Regards
Hi Steve great video ! Those oilers will be a great asset to your lathe I made some similar but with smaller diameter tube for my horizontal mill . I put the breather whole ontop and then made a thin brass slider pivoting on a 6 ba screw . This meant it could sit over the breather whole and stop the flow of oil . Great video !
Steve, this is going to solve the huge mess I get from my drip oiler on my surface grinder! I don't think it will work particularly well for my particular lathe, but it is incredibly useful to me nonetheless. Thank you!
Yes, I agree that the standard oilers are very touchy to adjust, and I would like to replace mine someday. Using a wick oiler sounds like a great idea! Isn't there enough air leakage where the top cap meets the clear tube to permit dripping even when the vent hole is sealed? Same thought for the top screw hole. Perhaps the oil that inevitably enters these narrow gaps provides enough of a seal through surface tension/capillary action? Also, what actually regulates the drip rate? I expect the oil confined (by surface tension) to the wick is essentially siphoning out of the reservoir, with viscous flow through the wick slowing the siphoning action. This would imply that a fatter wick, or one more loosely spun, would give a greater flow. More height difference between the reservoir level and the bottom end of the wick would increase flow as well, but only to a certain extent.
make 2 O-ring grooves in the cap. 1 in line with air hole and another below as a parking spot. Use O-ring as you would electrical tape to seal air inlet whenever lubrication isn't required.
I'd have been tempted to leave the center post longer and have the top cap threaded to screw onto it (With an O ring and groove in the top cap to seal against the top edge of the plastic tube), Then use the center post as the vent and fitting something like an acorn nut to the top of it to make it vacuum tight when not in use.......... Then again, We choose the best solution based on the tools at our disposal, And my selection of tools is still a long way off what I'd ultimately want them to be. :(
Nice video, good job. I have found Ebay o-rings not to be good quality, they didn't last long in my hydraulic jack so I went to my local hydraulic services place and bought some good ones. Also there are plenty of o-ring specialists online
Hello there. I have been watching your videos all evening and have to say they are all brilliant and the way you explain every detail is much appreciated. Subscribed!!I've been toying with the idea of getting an ML7 to rekindle my good old apprentice days as loved using lathes and you are certainly helping make my mind up that I should take the plunge. No idea what I would make mind you but would be a great addition out my workshop I'm sure.
Hi Thanks....The Myford lathes are excellent, you should get one!.... I have found they are easy to work on and maintain. Its great that there is hundreds of new and used spare parts readily available for them. Regards Steve
Many thanks for such a good explanations. The video guides you are doing are very well prepaired and done. Hope you will continue creating new useful stuff. Good luck!
HI , thanks for your response, having heard you state many times about drawings etc it now looks to me in hindsight like a bad request, My intended request really was based on the fact that your designs have brilliant proportion to them, so consider the message is learnt by my self , here is your template viewers now go learn by your own en-devours and only by not copying parrot fashion you may actually attain proportion and design, considerations that may not be found otherwise. My humble appologies and as with all your projects I cant wait for the next one,many thanks for what you share which is a free gift to people. With great respect S.W
Just an idea you know how a brake bleeder on your car works if you implement that idea to the breather hole and count how long the air inside will allow it to wick for example 2hours if you close it off 2 hours before you stop for the day you know when the oil will shutoff for you every time
Nice! I always struggle with the Myford ones that vex me as they can be great one day, bad the next. Perhaps very sensitive to temperature? Would never have thought to use a wick. Perhaps one could have a rotating/sliding control like the original to turn these on or off to save having to use tape. Always many ways to make things, but having something reliable is the best feature of any machine.
stunning oillers steve I know you dont do drawings and what you have shown gives good instruction , the only thing I would ask is what length is the perspex when cut ready to fit and what is the depth of the brass bottom obviously minus the given internal o ring etc and the same for the top as minus the 5mm if it is poss for you to give them you will have helped a novice who has all ready completed 2 of your brilliant constructions .Thanks for sharing achiveable projects that do not cost the earth. By a funny coinceidence I had all ready made the plexi motor cover as I have the same ml7 and motor and the similarity of covers are uncanny , how ever I wish i shared all of your machining skills S.W
Hi Diane, You can make these oilers easily to whatever dimensions you want, there is no need for specific dimensions. I only give some dimensions in the video and do not give plans or drawings to anyone. This is because there are people on RUclips that collect this information, get enough details to make up drawings and then sell on the plans from their websites, as if it is their own designs and drawings. I have come to the conclusion that if machinists really want to make the tools I show then they will endeavour to have a go themselves, as making things like this would be relatively easy even for a novice, if they take they are careful and take their time. Regards Steve
Hi Steve and thankyou for your videos! What is the best possible belts that you would recommend for a Myford ML7? Im looking at Fenner Powertwist Plus for both motor and headstock. Guess its Z(10mm) and A (13 mm) right? Cheers
Thanks for this, very useful. It looks to me like a great first project for my soon to be running ML7. Can I use aluminium instead of brass, and are pipe cleaners OK as wicks?
Hi Ant, Yes you could use aluminium, but I would choose a good grade like 6082T6, which is really nice to machine. This grade is used in the aerospace industry. You can get it for reasonable prices on Ebay. I was thinking of using pipe cleaners for wicks, myself. I see they used them in a lot of the older wick feed oilers. My Regards Steve.
steve.. how do i get the outside jaws for my sanou 5"/125mm 6 jaw chuck i thought when i ordered the chuck a set of out side jaws would be included .....but no..can you help me in this dilemma... yors sincerly laurence..
Another excellent video. I tend to lurk rather than comment but your videos are a well-received education for someone like me who is self-teaching themselves to make things with their lathe. I have Super 7 back at my home but I work abroad most of the year so normally don't have access to it. I have a teaching workshop where I am (I teach design in China) but I don't have a full size lathe here. Thank you for your dedication and quality content.
Hi John, Thank you for watching and for your feedback. The Super 7 is an excellent lathe. My brother has one that's in great condition. You have a good job teaching design. Regards Steve
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Good evening Steve. My comment about the oilers I made was dedicated to this video. I did almost the same but in order to simplify the process I machined the top part with o'rings (same than the lower parts). I used also small brass bleeder valve to allow an easy refill and easy opening/closing for venting. Thanks again for the great idea. Regards
Nicely done. I now know that I must have a drip oiler tester... my friends will pull their hair trying to figure out what it's function is!
Hi Steve,
I just got a Myford lathe this week and remembered this video. I will be making some of these wick oil feeder for it.
Thanks
Paul,,
Hi Steve great video ! Those oilers will be a great asset to your lathe I made some similar but with smaller diameter tube for my horizontal mill . I put the breather whole ontop and then made a thin brass slider pivoting on a 6 ba screw . This meant it could sit over the breather whole and stop the flow of oil . Great video !
Hi Thanks. They sound good. Great idea having a brass slider!
Regards Steve
SOME EXCELLENT TOOL SALES:-
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Steve, this is going to solve the huge mess I get from my drip oiler on my surface grinder! I don't think it will work particularly well for my particular lathe, but it is incredibly useful to me nonetheless. Thank you!
Hi Jon, Thanks.
Very elegant Steve - nice job.
Your ML7 must be the most pampered one ever - so many nice touches. :)
Hi Chris, Yes I think it is........:)...Thanks.
Yes, I agree that the standard oilers are very touchy to adjust, and I would like to replace mine someday. Using a wick oiler sounds like a great idea!
Isn't there enough air leakage where the top cap meets the clear tube to permit dripping even when the vent hole is sealed? Same thought for the top screw hole. Perhaps the oil that inevitably enters these narrow gaps provides enough of a seal through surface tension/capillary action?
Also, what actually regulates the drip rate? I expect the oil confined (by surface tension) to the wick is essentially siphoning out of the reservoir, with viscous flow through the wick slowing the siphoning action. This would imply that a fatter wick, or one more loosely spun, would give a greater flow. More height difference between the reservoir level and the bottom end of the wick would increase flow as well, but only to a certain extent.
You could cut a shallow groove at the same height as the vent hole and stretch an O ring around the cap when not in use. Very nice video. Thank you.
Hi Richard Thanks....That is a great idea.....Regards Steve
make 2 O-ring grooves in the cap. 1 in line with air hole and another below as a parking spot. Use O-ring as you would electrical tape to seal air inlet whenever lubrication isn't required.
Hi Jim....Great Idea.... Thanks.
Regards Steve
I'd have been tempted to leave the center post longer and have the top cap threaded to screw onto it (With an O ring and groove in the top cap to seal against the top edge of the plastic tube), Then use the center post as the vent and fitting something like an acorn nut to the top of it to make it vacuum tight when not in use.......... Then again, We choose the best solution based on the tools at our disposal, And my selection of tools is still a long way off what I'd ultimately want them to be. :(
Nice video, good job. I have found Ebay o-rings not to be good quality, they didn't last long in my hydraulic jack so I went to my local hydraulic services place and bought some good ones. Also there are plenty of o-ring specialists online
Hi John, yes I get proper industrial grade type for my air rifles online. I measure the original ones and buy plenty of spares as well.
Hello there. I have been watching your videos all evening and have to say they are all brilliant and the way you explain every detail is much appreciated. Subscribed!!I've been toying with the idea of getting an ML7 to rekindle my good old apprentice days as loved using lathes and you are certainly helping make my mind up that I should take the plunge. No idea what I would make mind you but would be a great addition out my workshop I'm sure.
Hi Thanks....The Myford lathes are excellent, you should get one!.... I have found they are easy to work on and maintain. Its great that there is hundreds of new and used spare parts readily available for them. Regards Steve
Nice oilers. The test stand is very well done.
Thanks.
Many thanks for such a good explanations. The video guides you are doing are very well prepaired and done. Hope you will continue creating new useful stuff. Good luck!
Hi Nikolay.....Many Thanks.....I hope to do some more videos soon....Regards Steve
HI , thanks for your response, having heard you state many times about drawings etc it now looks to me in hindsight like a bad request, My intended request really was based on the fact that your designs have brilliant proportion to them, so consider the message is learnt by my self , here is your template viewers now go learn by your own en-devours and only by not copying parrot fashion you may actually attain proportion and design, considerations that may not be found otherwise. My humble appologies and as with all your projects I cant wait for the next one,many thanks for what you share which is a free gift to people.
With great respect S.W
Very unpredictable is the right description :-)
Great video.
Merry christmas Steve !
Hi Eddy.....Thanks
awsome guess what I'm making for my 1939 9"southbend thanks for sharing this one
Hi Wade, Thanks.
Hi nice work had you thought about an adjustable air vent to meter the flow or just as a shut off.
As usual Steve, very well done! Hope you have a Happy and Prosperous New Year.
Hi Glenn, Thanks....Hope you have a Happy New Year as well!!
Regards Steve
Those would be lovely on my old lathe. Well done.
Thanks
Great stuffs! You do fine work, Sir. Thank you for sharing this.
Fantastic work fairplay, going to attempt to make some myself
Merry Christmas
Paul
Hi Paul, Thanks.
What a great design. This has given me ideas....Thanks!
Just an idea you know how a brake bleeder on your car works if you implement that idea to the breather hole and count how long the air inside will allow it to wick for example 2hours if you close it off 2 hours before you stop for the day you know when the oil will shutoff for you every time
Very nice job, Steve. Great work.
Thanks
Nice! I always struggle with the Myford ones that vex me as they can be great one day, bad the next. Perhaps very sensitive to temperature? Would never have thought to use a wick. Perhaps one could have a rotating/sliding control like the original to turn these on or off to save having to use tape. Always many ways to make things, but having something reliable is the best feature of any machine.
Hi Thanks, Sorry for the late reply.
The rotating/slide control would be a good idea, thanks. Regards Steve
stunning oillers steve I know you dont do drawings and what you have shown gives good instruction , the only thing I would ask is what length is the perspex when cut ready to fit and what is the depth of the brass bottom obviously minus the given internal o ring etc and the same for the top as minus the 5mm if it is poss for you to give them you will have helped a novice who has all ready completed 2 of your brilliant constructions .Thanks for sharing achiveable projects that do not cost the earth.
By a funny coinceidence I had all ready made the plexi motor cover as I have the same ml7 and motor and the similarity of covers are uncanny , how ever I wish i shared all of your machining skills S.W
Hi Diane, You can make these oilers easily to whatever dimensions you want, there is no need for specific dimensions.
I only give some dimensions in the video and do not give plans or drawings to anyone. This is because there are people on RUclips that collect this information, get enough details to make up drawings and then sell on the plans from their websites, as if it is their own designs and drawings.
I have come to the conclusion that if machinists really want to make the tools I show then they will endeavour to have a go themselves, as making things like this would be relatively easy even for a novice, if they take they are careful and take their time. Regards Steve
Realy nice ! Thanks !
(From France)
Thanks.
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. Wishing you a blessed New Year
Hi Norm, Thanks......Have a great new year as well
Regards Steve
Thanks so much for sharing. Great Job, Great Design. Impeccably done sir.
Hi Dave, Thanks
Really nice project, I will have to make some of these my self, keep up the good work xD.
Hi Colin.....Thanks
Nice work Steve.
Hi John.....Thanks
Very nice oilers. Congratulations!
Hi Nilton, Thanks.
nice video, easy listening, good project.
Hi Noel......Thanks for watching...Regards Steve
How do these go if your lathe use is limited and your oiler drains before next use? Does it result in excessive oil mess?
THANK YOU...for sharing.
what a great job😅this is what i need for my 9ibch hercus lathe
Hi Steve and thankyou for your videos!
What is the best possible belts that you would recommend for a Myford ML7?
Im looking at Fenner Powertwist Plus for both motor and headstock. Guess its Z(10mm) and A (13 mm) right?
Cheers
Hi yes that is what I bought for mine. They are the best belts I have used and have no problems whatsoever with them. Regards Steve
Nice design ------ I will have to make a couple for my home made Mill ---- thanks
Thanks for this, very useful. It looks to me like a great first project for my soon to be running ML7. Can I use aluminium instead of brass, and are pipe cleaners OK as wicks?
Hi Ant, Yes you could use aluminium, but I would choose a good grade like 6082T6, which is really nice to machine. This grade is used in the aerospace industry. You can get it for reasonable prices on Ebay.
I was thinking of using pipe cleaners for wicks, myself. I see they used them in a lot of the older wick feed oilers.
My Regards Steve.
Thanks for the info Steve. I have watched quite a few of your videos now - thanks for all the hard work.
Does running the machine create a bit of a vacuum that makes the oil drip faster?
Hi Yes I think it does, because if I leave the lathe off the oil seems to stay in the oilers, even overnight. Regards Steve
Don't use EPR a E PDM as the elastomer those O-rings they swell with Oil... Nice idea !
Hi Jerry....Thanks
Hi Steve what is the additive that you are using to add ot your iso32 please let me know thanks
Hi I use it neat without any additives.
Nice work. The oil steel button on top. is that bought at myford?
Hi I got them from here.
www.lathespares.co.uk/myford-oil-nipple-concaved
Regards Steve
steve.. how do i get the outside jaws for my sanou 5"/125mm 6 jaw chuck i thought when i ordered the chuck a set of out side jaws would be included .....but no..can you help me in this dilemma... yors sincerly laurence..
Hi Laurence, I really don't know. I see the chuck is only sold on eBay and they don't mention the outside jaws on the listings? Regards Steve
EXCELLENT
Excellent
Hi Thanks
I'm guessing that this can't be used on the mini lathe Steve?? I don't recall seeing any oil point on mine??
Hi Steve, No there aren't any at the moment, but maybe sometime soon......I am considering an upgrade at the moment! ..........Regards Steve
If anyone can do such a mod, I'm sure that it's you Steve.
Can you advise on the grade of oil please ?
+moriwaki1105 The Myford lathe headstock bearing oil must be ISO 32 Hydraulic oil