A few tips for you... I mow lawns professionally using a JD4105 with a flail (as well as other machines). Removing the FEL DRAMATICALLY lowers the center of gravity and makes it feels like a completely different tractor. If nothing else, I highly recommend adding front weights and removing the loader from the tractor for stability. But also, using a $15 ebay tyre water valve adapter, I fill my front tyres to 75% and my rear to 50% (extra ballist but with low center of gravity at steep side angles) and I haven't noticed any increase regarding leaving any tracks in the lawns on the properties I maintain - but every lawn will be different. Regarding suitcase weights: I got an engineering shop to lazer cut some suitcase weights from 2 inch thick steel, and weld a handle on top for me. They weight about the same as JD weights, and they work the the same, but cost me about 1/3 the price of what John Deere charge for theirs. Just draw the template shape that you want on a piece of cardboard and give it to the shop. It's a MUCH cheaper option for suitcase weights. Lastly regarding scalping: try lifting the 3PL (and flail) up higher, but adjust/lengthen your top 3PL arm, so the flail angle leans backwards and drops the rear roller onto the ground, which should also take some weight off from the tractor and help with stability. Good luck.
Awesome tips! Thanks much! I’ve avoided the filled tires but I’m thinking that might be ticket. The center of gravity point on the FEL is also one I hadn’t considered. I rarely take off the loader just the bucket. Again many thanks this is super helpful!
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors Remember to let the weight of the flailmower rest on the roller behind the flail. Every tractor will react slightly different, every loader will weigh a different amount regarding center if gravity, and every lawn/property will have different ground conditions. Just use common sense regarding your particular conditions, but I think the points I mentioned should help you. Just keep in mind that when removing the FEL, you will more than likely need to add a few weights to the NOSE of the tractor. Water in front tyres will help, but probably will not be enough weight by itself. Just experiment - if you are doing wheelies and can't steer... then add more weight!!! My flail weighs about 500kg (which has hydraulic side-shift, but is right behind my tractor), and I balance this with about 150kg of suitcase weights out on the nose of the tractor. This feels about right for me, but the further out backwards you extend your mower, the more weight on the nose you need to balance it. Each front tyre on MY TRACTOR holds 40 extra kg (80kg total) of plain water, but that weight is not out front as far as the nose weights. Adding water to your rear tyres (especially the left tyre) will help counterweight the mower which you are extending out to the right. It's all just a big balancing game. :) Always keep the roll bar up. Seat belt is optional because you are working beside water - seat belts can drown you.
@@southerndropbear5420 thank you sir for the advice... Agree on always with the ROPS and I think I usually opt out of the seat belt while mowing along the pond... Definitely respect the tractor and the potential dangers. Again, thanks for taking the time to reply and share the great info!
I am so happy to see this attachment. Every time I try to mow close to my pond with my ZTR, I risk sliding in. If the grass is even slightly wet, the ZTR wants to side-slip right into the pond. I've kept it out, just barely. More than once, I've had to stop the ZTR and go get my tractor to pull the ZTR away from the water. What a hassle! I love the look of this offset flail mower! It might be the way to go. I just wish it stuck out further, but then balance would be an issue.
I still want to love it but it feels a bit squirrely on the little slopes... i think a wider one is needed so I don't need to get so close, but wider is also heavier...
I think so too! the issue is at times it wants to drop which makes it feel like the tractor is going over. I'm about to test it out on the Solis H24 once i get the rear diverter installed and see if it performs any better. That lake was the selling feature when we pulled up the driveway; we absolutely love it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for doing this video. I have a 1025r right now and thinking about upgrading to a 2032r and get an offset flail mower or brush hog to mow my country road ditches. Great review thanks again.
Thank you AJ! I watched the Tractor Time with Tim video where he mows roadside ditches with his 2038R and he had a flat surface so it appeared a little more stable but still questionable somewhat. I had just hoped it would be a little more stable.
TTWT done a video with maschio offset flail mower, and I wonder if it sticks out further and is lighter than the titan model. I live in southern Ohio, with a 2038R and have a 3/4 acre pond that needs trimming very similar to yours. This spring I replaced the overflow and while the water was down I dredged the bank and added stone rock to help stabilize the bank. I also have tried trimming with a string trimmer, then push mower, and was considering a push string trimmer like you showed. Next year i'm going to find an easier solution and I was considering an offset flail mower. Now i'm seconding guessing. Thanks for the video
Hey Wyatt... Yep, I saw TTWT's video as well... Not sure if the weights are any different. Take a look at one of the earlier comments, someone recently pointed out some other options that are driven from the front end loader... Not sure if they would be a better option or not. I have a steeper portion that I just mowed by backing my brush hog down to it and back up... would take a long time to do the whole pond but it works for that section... My other approach has been to tolerate the grass on the bank a little more. It just makes it a pain when we are fishing and gives the snakes more area to hide out and scare my kids... well and me too. :-) I did new overflows last year but am in some major need of dredging and cleaning up the silt and sludge along my banks. Gotta find a low cost approach to that... Glad the video was helpful... just wish I had a better answer for you...
Enjoy your videos. I am looking into the 125FLAILDB. I can't find any info as to what hydraulics connections are needed on the back of my tractor. I even called Titan and their customer support person couldn't even tell me. Can you tell me since you have one that is working. Thank you
I had to install the dual SCVs from John Deere. Cost me around $1200 installed. I think I’m the video I show them and list the pet numbers. Let me know I’d you need more info.
I would think whatever you need to do to keep the tractor on stable ground, but that puts you further away from what needs to be cut if that thing doesn't extend further out to the side. Then of course the further out you go the more unstable it is. Looks like it just doesn't work for your application. Thanks for the video though, I was looking at these to use on logging roads but now I know there's no way it would work. It also seemed a little slow if your doing a 4 acre pond. It would be faster though if you didn't have to be so careful of falling in. I bought a tow behind flail mower for my quad that offsets. I wonder if that would work???
Yes you hit all the challenges... needs to be longer reach... i've seen other videos were people were flying along the pond but I was definitely going slow for safety reasons... the 4 acre pond only has one side that gets mowed, the other is all hillside and trees. Part of the issue is the bank is constantly soft... if it rains and the water rises the bank is wet... I'm checkin on a few options for sickle mowers. I sometime wonder if I would have been okay going with a much wider version, say 60-72" vs 48" but this was the one rated for my tractor. Thanks for watching and commenting...
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors a sickle bar mower would certainly be lighter but not sure how it would work on green grass. A lot depends on how often you have to do it and the time you want to spend on the chore. I might even entertain an aquatic herbicide for the hard part. Maybe do the edge as far as you can reach comfortably and spray the rest. You may only have to do it once or twice a year. A product called rodeo or roundup custom aquatic are very affective.
so i have 3" wheel spacers and I'd be surprised if I'm getting 30 of the 48 inches past the tires. I'd have to measure it again. Pretty sure I had it fully out during the video but don't recall for sure. I think I'd go up in size to get the extra reach of say a 60" offset but that's even more weight which will likely make it even more unstable.
I have 2½ acre pond q I use a sickle bar mower that I converted with a hydraulic cylinder so I can control the bar up and down. Works great other than it doesn't mulch like a flail mower.
@@kurtvance1320 I'm using that flail mower and due to my pond bank angle, the reach of the flail and weight, it feels very unstable... also due to the undulations of my bank it scalps down to the dirt...
Don't know anyting about flail mowers, but if you extend the top link as far as it'll go I think it should put more weight on the rear roller in turn raising your cutter head in height
Thanks for the suggestion! I do have it back pretty far and assumed the same... there is one adjustment where you can move the roller to one of two placements... I'm going to try moving it back and see if maybe I made the wrong adjustment. I'm pretty sure i just need to get it dialed in. Thanks for commenting!
Jim, thanks for the comment. Honestly, I had never heard of either of these options nor did I realize the technology even existed for my size tractor. I had done quite a bit of research and never saw anyone mention mowing pond banks with a front end loader hydraulic driven brush hog. I'm curious if it would work better or if I'd face the same counterweight issues. Are you using one these options? Also, looks like they may cost a bit more in total cost of ownership, but definitely an interesting option.
I'm just going by what I've seen others on RUclips demonstrating how they work. I think Trail Blazer is a better and safer one because of how they built theirs. A really good video on RUclips is with Messick out in Pennsylvania.
They are pricey, but they can do several jobs with just that implement. We aren't getting any younger with our property and we will probably eventually get one since it can do offset mowing around our pond and creek, brush hog from the front under trees, and articulate to go up to cut down limbs and brush that gets in our way on our paths. I like the idea of being able to do it all from a tractor and not have to run around with weed eaters, push line trimmers, pole chain saws and back up to mow down things with our rear brush hog.
Have you tried mowing without the FEL and using suitcase weights on the front? Do you have ballast in your rear tires? The mower from the rear view seems tilted forward when it is cutting. Otherwise I think you are doing a great job. Best wishes
Hey Tim thanks for the comment really appreciate it. No tire weights or ballast because I’m afraid it will rut my yard up too much. I do have wheel spacers. I’ve considered having the tires filled but I think it would cause me to sink along the pond. Don’t have any suitcase weights so haven’t tried that yet either but all good suggestions. I need to try to fine tune the top link and the sway bars as well. Definitely more to learn. Will try to post an update in the future once I get it dialed in.
Tim Ziegler I haven’t. Looked into them but they were pretty pricey so I went this route. It gets mowed about 4-5 times a year now not with each mowing. Still Better than the hours with the weed eater.
Hey Bob and Kim, I have not tried a sickle bar mower, but that was my original thought... I couldn't find one that wasn't over $5k so went the route of the flail... I think it would work and will keep an eye out for a used one, but also couldn't really find any videos of others using it so questioned the cut. My hope was to be able to maintain more regularly but I'm still letting it grow up quite a bit due to the hassle of the offset flail. Thanks for the suggestion and comment!
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors ruclips.net/video/WqCNtndAJwc/видео.html Cut quality different but probably more stable / safer for tractor and operator. Price might be an bit hard to swallow but maybe used?
Going to pick a 5 ft titan up to tomorrow looks just like yours hope it cuts as good as yours. If so the finish mower is up for-sale. Great video. Thanks.
I've stayed diligent on trapping them in my pond but that is what caused a number of the soft spots and low spots in my bank. They are easy to trap if you do any trapping. In terms of the mowing I think I'm going to try a scythe attachment for my new Stihl trimmer. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video. I was considering something like that. Have a Dr 3pt trimmer that im not impressed with. Now considering a Sabre samurai sickle bar to mount on FEL.
I had considered a trimmer like that from Titan Attachments but was concerned it wouldn't have the reach I needed. I also considered a sickle bar but the costs were super high. I haven't seen the samurai but will check it out. If you do it get it, let me know how it works! Thanks!
Pond is about 50 years old I believe... It's very healthy but has quite a bit of muck and sediment... average depth of probably 4-5' with deepest at 12 near where we swim... Did you build yours?
Why is it so high off the ground? Most flails work better with roller on ground and top link all the way out to avoid scalping. Also, filled tires and left wheel weight will help with the tippy feeling.
I'll have to review again, but scalping was the main issue i've faced and also with the pond edge it can quickly grab and pull the implement and tractor into toward the water/mud. I'm honestly still trying to find the sweet spot with this thing... only two positions on the roller and the toplink has a float position and a fixed position... Will be trying it again soon once things dry out a bit. I've held off on filled tires as my yard is often soft, but I've reached out to RimGuard to find local companies that can fill them, and also the left wheel weight is probably a must to help counter balance. Need to look into those.
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors I ran a slope mower 30+ years ago, a DLB Case. In addition to the huge hydro tank for the mower mounted on opposite side, we had 4 100# weights on left tire. Did a lot of steep ditch/lake bank mowing with it. And yes, your butt would try and rip the seat off the tractor sometimes. 😉😉
@@arlisspropertyservicesllc5943 lol... i'm on a slight slope and I can relate to that pucker factor comment... haha... i put my little Massey into the edge 3 times... this tractor has a much higher center of gravity and may not be so easy to remove... I really want to love this attachment but sounds like i need some tractor modifications to make it work for me. Thanks for the perspective, it is much appreciated!
Sickle mower on a two wheeled tractor like a BCS might work good in this application. Light footprint and can put the end of the sickle into the water.
Same issues, same sized pond, same state, went through the same progression of equipment besides the offset....looking for solutions. Something about flipping a tractor into the pond scares the crap out of me...
You and me both. I still have the offset and I use it 1-2 times a year but haven’t used it this year and will likely go back to the weed eater. I so wanted this to be the answer but for now it still makes me super uneasy.
Excavator with a mulching head is the right tool for that pond bank! That big heavy tractor within 6 feet of the bank is going to be squirrelly. Even a big bad Ventrac sporting duals, running their offset sickle bar mower will have challenges if you drive too close to the edge (as will a track loader). When you feel like you're going to tip toward the mower, lower it (and cut power), rather than raise it. Then figure out the next course of action as appropriate. But this is a good review and I am considering an offset flail mower also. I think your scalping problem is more your terrain than the flail mower. Bush hogs will scalp too if set too low.
Great feedback and I agree on all points. I just cut again the other day and the uneven terrain resulted in all sorts of scalping. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Looks like they are currently priced at $2199 from Titan. Here is my affiliate link so you can check them out... ibit.ly/uAwI Don't forget that you need two rear remote hydraulics to use this... that cost me another $1200 from John Deere to buy and have installed. Let me know if you have any questions!
Yessir, you could say that... :-) and with the fact that I'm getting old and i'm managing too many properties... I need an easy solution! :-). Thanks for watching and commenting!
If the mower is in the ground it will be more stable. I don't think you have it adjusted correctly when your having as many issues as you are having. I run a double flail in the fall for work
Thanks for the feedback, I definitely don’t feel I have it dialed in yet. When you see it riding high those are areas where I could feel it dipping down too low into the pond and it seems to dig in and pull the tractor. Will keep at it because I want it to be the quickest and easiest method; especially after the investment. Lol.
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors I think once you get it dialed in it should work great for your needs . I watched it again and there are no skid shoes.......so I'm guessing it needs to be leveled with links. On the big ones at work they have shoes and just ride on the roller and shoe......don't feel tippy till you start lifting then you can feel it. Sorry if my comment came off harsh was not my intent
Hey Mike, not harsh at all I really appreciate the feedback. I’m still learning and I love that folks like yourself are able to provide some insights, it’s what I love about RUclips. Again really appreciate you taking the time to share your experience and suggestions. I’m gonna be mowing with it again soon and will spend some time trying to dial it in better.
I didn't even KNOW the word "Flail Mower" about 2 weeks ago, so take this with a grain of salt. I have, however, been watching a TON of videos and trying to learn as much as I can about them, because I'm really interested in getting one. In fact, for the money, I think the one you have is the one I'll end up going with (The Titan one). I think I'll go with the 65" though just so I can get a little longer reach. The 65" is a little less than 200 lbs more in weight. Anyway, it seems like your roller is not touching the ground alot of the time in your video while you're cutting. I *think* the roller is an integral part of the process AND helps lessen some of the constant load on the 3 point, which would probably lessen some of your pucker factor and the feeling of tipping over, since most of its weight would be riding on the roller. I also am wondering if because the tip of yours rides down in the water alot if it's kicking up water onto the bank, making it soft and then chopping it up giving it that scalped look? Like, maybe it's the perfect storm to keeping you not 100% satisfied? I have a creek that passes through my property that most of the year only has a small amount of (constant) water trickling by.....well, that creek likes to grow out of control so that's what I'll be using this for. In most places along the creek it is deep (not the water, just the bottom of the creek bed is deep down there) so I'm hoping I can tilt this flail mower and cut along that creek bank. I'm like you where I have used the trimmer, now we have tried to use the push mower and were considering the push trimmer..........then I found the Flail Mower. We shall see......good luck!
Hey thanks for the comments and suggestions. I've not figured out how to get it dialed in for sure... the roller only has two positions and the prior one i was getting scalping and this one it seems if i lower it so its rolling I get scalping... i've noticed that any commercial unit has a counterbalance weight system on the opposite side of the flail... be careful with your deep ditches it won't take much, a small hole or something, to possibly cause a tip. It's almost dry enough for me to give it another try here soon. The wet issues are because of the rains and the proximity to the pond edge... i hope to figure it out this year. would love to use it more often but now I only use it maybe 3 times per year.
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Looks like they are currently selling for $3800... I wanna say mine was closer to $2800 when I bought it but I also had $1000 in putting in the rear remotes on my JD. I wish I had bought a wider one to get more reach but the 48" one was what was rated for my tractor.
I have the spacers but no weights. I’m not sure I mentioned it in the video but did in a recent FB post that I’m concerned about the weights sinking me in near the ponds edge. I’ve stayed away from filled tires and weights as my time to mow is usually on the weekends when I’m here so I’ve not wanted to rut the yard anymore that it already does. But will check into the recommend, thanks!
LOL, you are right on the money... I just mowed again the other day, video forthcoming, and I concluded I'm not going to solve this issue without some major change... more reach on the mower possibly would help but that means a new one, or regrading could work. It is just too soft closer to the pond.
72" be great but I don't think my tractor could handle it, even just transporting it around... they are heavy and definitely offset the balance on the tractor...
You are degrading your pond by mowing to the waters edge and blowing the grass clippings into the water. The phosphorus from the grass clippings supports algae growth and if the pond water is not flushed over time it will supply internal loading of phosphorus. Do a little research on impaired waters.
Thanks for the comment Joe. I actually am pretty careful to minimize the amount of grass that goes into the pond and have found that one of the benefits of the flail mower is that it doesn’t throw much of it like the trimmers do. The pond is over 50 years old and is quite healthy but has a fair amount of muck as a result of all the surrounding trees and leaves that drop each year. I also only mow like this about 3-4 times a year. I’ll read up on impaired waters.
A few tips for you... I mow lawns professionally using a JD4105 with a flail (as well as other machines).
Removing the FEL DRAMATICALLY lowers the center of gravity and makes it feels like a completely different tractor. If nothing else, I highly recommend adding front weights and removing the loader from the tractor for stability.
But also, using a $15 ebay tyre water valve adapter, I fill my front tyres to 75% and my rear to 50% (extra ballist but with low center of gravity at steep side angles) and I haven't noticed any increase regarding leaving any tracks in the lawns on the properties I maintain - but every lawn will be different.
Regarding suitcase weights: I got an engineering shop to lazer cut some suitcase weights from 2 inch thick steel, and weld a handle on top for me. They weight about the same as JD weights, and they work the the same, but cost me about 1/3 the price of what John Deere charge for theirs. Just draw the template shape that you want on a piece of cardboard and give it to the shop. It's a MUCH cheaper option for suitcase weights.
Lastly regarding scalping: try lifting the 3PL (and flail) up higher, but adjust/lengthen your top 3PL arm, so the flail angle leans backwards and drops the rear roller onto the ground, which should also take some weight off from the tractor and help with stability.
Good luck.
Awesome tips! Thanks much! I’ve avoided the filled tires but I’m thinking that might be ticket. The center of gravity point on the FEL is also one I hadn’t considered. I rarely take off the loader just the bucket. Again many thanks this is super helpful!
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors Remember to let the weight of the flailmower rest on the roller behind the flail.
Every tractor will react slightly different, every loader will weigh a different amount regarding center if gravity, and every lawn/property will have different ground conditions. Just use common sense regarding your particular conditions, but I think the points I mentioned should help you.
Just keep in mind that when removing the FEL, you will more than likely need to add a few weights to the NOSE of the tractor. Water in front tyres will help, but probably will not be enough weight by itself. Just experiment - if you are doing wheelies and can't steer... then add more weight!!!
My flail weighs about 500kg (which has hydraulic side-shift, but is right behind my tractor), and I balance this with about 150kg of suitcase weights out on the nose of the tractor. This feels about right for me, but the further out backwards you extend your mower, the more weight on the nose you need to balance it. Each front tyre on MY TRACTOR holds 40 extra kg (80kg total) of plain water, but that weight is not out front as far as the nose weights. Adding water to your rear tyres (especially the left tyre) will help counterweight the mower which you are extending out to the right. It's all just a big balancing game. :)
Always keep the roll bar up. Seat belt is optional because you are working beside water - seat belts can drown you.
@@southerndropbear5420 thank you sir for the advice... Agree on always with the ROPS and I think I usually opt out of the seat belt while mowing along the pond... Definitely respect the tractor and the potential dangers. Again, thanks for taking the time to reply and share the great info!
I am so happy to see this attachment. Every time I try to mow close to my pond with my ZTR, I risk sliding in. If the grass is even slightly wet, the ZTR wants to side-slip right into the pond. I've kept it out, just barely. More than once, I've had to stop the ZTR and go get my tractor to pull the ZTR away from the water. What a hassle! I love the look of this offset flail mower! It might be the way to go. I just wish it stuck out further, but then balance would be an issue.
I still want to love it but it feels a bit squirrely on the little slopes... i think a wider one is needed so I don't need to get so close, but wider is also heavier...
Looks like the float setting is better, nice lake!
I think so too! the issue is at times it wants to drop which makes it feel like the tractor is going over. I'm about to test it out on the Solis H24 once i get the rear diverter installed and see if it performs any better. That lake was the selling feature when we pulled up the driveway; we absolutely love it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for doing this video. I have a 1025r right now and thinking about upgrading to a 2032r and get an offset flail mower or brush hog to mow my country road ditches. Great review thanks again.
Thank you AJ! I watched the Tractor Time with Tim video where he mows roadside ditches with his 2038R and he had a flat surface so it appeared a little more stable but still questionable somewhat. I had just hoped it would be a little more stable.
TTWT done a video with maschio offset flail mower, and I wonder if it sticks out further and is lighter than the titan model. I live in southern Ohio, with a 2038R and have a 3/4 acre pond that needs trimming very similar to yours. This spring I replaced the overflow and while the water was down I dredged the bank and added stone rock to help stabilize the bank. I also have tried trimming with a string trimmer, then push mower, and was considering a push string trimmer like you showed. Next year i'm going to find an easier solution and I was considering an offset flail mower. Now i'm seconding guessing. Thanks for the video
Hey Wyatt... Yep, I saw TTWT's video as well... Not sure if the weights are any different. Take a look at one of the earlier comments, someone recently pointed out some other options that are driven from the front end loader... Not sure if they would be a better option or not. I have a steeper portion that I just mowed by backing my brush hog down to it and back up... would take a long time to do the whole pond but it works for that section... My other approach has been to tolerate the grass on the bank a little more. It just makes it a pain when we are fishing and gives the snakes more area to hide out and scare my kids... well and me too. :-)
I did new overflows last year but am in some major need of dredging and cleaning up the silt and sludge along my banks. Gotta find a low cost approach to that...
Glad the video was helpful... just wish I had a better answer for you...
Enjoy your videos. I am looking into the 125FLAILDB. I can't find any info as to what hydraulics connections are needed on the back of my tractor. I even called Titan and their customer support person couldn't even tell me. Can you tell me since you have one that is working. Thank you
I had to install the dual SCVs from John Deere. Cost me around $1200 installed. I think I’m the video I show them and list the pet numbers. Let me know I’d you need more info.
I would think whatever you need to do to keep the tractor on stable ground, but that puts you further away from what needs to be cut if that thing doesn't extend further out to the side. Then of course the further out you go the more unstable it is. Looks like it just doesn't work for your application. Thanks for the video though, I was looking at these to use on logging roads but now I know there's no way it would work. It also seemed a little slow if your doing a 4 acre pond. It would be faster though if you didn't have to be so careful of falling in. I bought a tow behind flail mower for my quad that offsets. I wonder if that would work???
Yes you hit all the challenges... needs to be longer reach... i've seen other videos were people were flying along the pond but I was definitely going slow for safety reasons... the 4 acre pond only has one side that gets mowed, the other is all hillside and trees. Part of the issue is the bank is constantly soft... if it rains and the water rises the bank is wet... I'm checkin on a few options for sickle mowers. I sometime wonder if I would have been okay going with a much wider version, say 60-72" vs 48" but this was the one rated for my tractor. Thanks for watching and commenting...
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors a sickle bar mower would certainly be lighter but not sure how it would work on green grass. A lot depends on how often you have to do it and the time you want to spend on the chore. I might even entertain an aquatic herbicide for the hard part. Maybe do the edge as far as you can reach comfortably and spray the rest. You may only have to do it once or twice a year. A product called rodeo or roundup custom aquatic are very affective.
If fully extended, how much past the rear tire can you get with the flail?
so i have 3" wheel spacers and I'd be surprised if I'm getting 30 of the 48 inches past the tires. I'd have to measure it again. Pretty sure I had it fully out during the video but don't recall for sure. I think I'd go up in size to get the extra reach of say a 60" offset but that's even more weight which will likely make it even more unstable.
@@hardybrothersproductreviews surprised it feels that tippy with wheel spacers even. Ground doesn't even look that unlevel.
@@andybowman9697 yep it’s not that steep but man it feels like it’s going over
I have 2½ acre pond q I use a sickle bar mower that I converted with a hydraulic cylinder so I can control the bar up and down. Works great other than it doesn't mulch like a flail mower.
That is what I need. I mowed again the other day and realized this just Isn’t the right solution for my pond.
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors what were you using?
A flail mower like these and if so why don't you like it?
@@kurtvance1320 I'm using that flail mower and due to my pond bank angle, the reach of the flail and weight, it feels very unstable... also due to the undulations of my bank it scalps down to the dirt...
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors
Thanks for your input i might just keep my sickle bar mower for my pond.
Don't know anyting about flail mowers, but if you extend the top link as far as it'll go I think it should put more weight on the rear roller in turn raising your cutter head in height
Thanks for the suggestion! I do have it back pretty far and assumed the same... there is one adjustment where you can move the roller to one of two placements... I'm going to try moving it back and see if maybe I made the wrong adjustment. I'm pretty sure i just need to get it dialed in. Thanks for commenting!
Try adding a restrictive Orfice to slow down the hydraulic fluid, for a smoother adjustment When raising and lowering the lift
Thanks will have to look into that... it is pretty jarring if not careful. Thanks for watching and the suggestion!
I was curious on why you decided on this more rather than the front brush cutters that articulate from TrailBlazer and Lane Shark?
Jim, thanks for the comment. Honestly, I had never heard of either of these options nor did I realize the technology even existed for my size tractor. I had done quite a bit of research and never saw anyone mention mowing pond banks with a front end loader hydraulic driven brush hog. I'm curious if it would work better or if I'd face the same counterweight issues. Are you using one these options? Also, looks like they may cost a bit more in total cost of ownership, but definitely an interesting option.
I'm just going by what I've seen others on RUclips demonstrating how they work. I think Trail Blazer is a better and safer one because of how they built theirs. A really good video on RUclips is with Messick out in Pennsylvania.
They are pricey, but they can do several jobs with just that implement. We aren't getting any younger with our property and we will probably eventually get one since it can do offset mowing around our pond and creek, brush hog from the front under trees, and articulate to go up to cut down limbs and brush that gets in our way on our paths. I like the idea of being able to do it all from a tractor and not have to run around with weed eaters, push line trimmers, pole chain saws and back up to mow down things with our rear brush hog.
Have you tried mowing without the FEL and using suitcase weights on the front? Do you have ballast in your rear tires? The mower from the rear view seems tilted forward when it is cutting. Otherwise I think you are doing a great job. Best wishes
Hey Tim thanks for the comment really appreciate it. No tire weights or ballast because I’m afraid it will rut my yard up too much. I do have wheel spacers. I’ve considered having the tires filled but I think it would cause me to sink along the pond. Don’t have any suitcase weights so haven’t tried that yet either but all good suggestions. I need to try to fine tune the top link and the sway bars as well. Definitely more to learn. Will try to post an update in the future once I get it dialed in.
Have you ever tried a sickle mower to mow around your pond areas? Keep at it; you will get it. Best wishes!
Tim Ziegler I haven’t. Looked into them but they were pretty pricey so I went this route. It gets mowed about 4-5 times a year now not with each mowing. Still Better than the hours with the weed eater.
Have you tried a Sickle Bar mower? Longer reach with a lighter tool.... finish cut not so great.
Hey Bob and Kim, I have not tried a sickle bar mower, but that was my original thought... I couldn't find one that wasn't over $5k so went the route of the flail... I think it would work and will keep an eye out for a used one, but also couldn't really find any videos of others using it so questioned the cut. My hope was to be able to maintain more regularly but I'm still letting it grow up quite a bit due to the hassle of the offset flail. Thanks for the suggestion and comment!
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors ruclips.net/video/WqCNtndAJwc/видео.html
Cut quality different but probably more stable / safer for tractor and operator. Price might be an bit hard to swallow but maybe used?
Going to pick a 5 ft titan up to tomorrow looks just like yours hope it cuts as good as yours. If so the finish mower is up for-sale. Great video. Thanks.
Make sure to check all the hydraulic connections at the cylinders... first thing. Good luck!
you sure pissed off a load of frogs!
FEL?? Is that front-end loader??
Yep Front end loader
We had a muskrat den and a huge sink in today
I've stayed diligent on trapping them in my pond but that is what caused a number of the soft spots and low spots in my bank. They are easy to trap if you do any trapping. In terms of the mowing I think I'm going to try a scythe attachment for my new Stihl trimmer. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video. I was considering something like that. Have a Dr 3pt trimmer that im not impressed with. Now considering a Sabre samurai sickle bar to mount on FEL.
I had considered a trimmer like that from Titan Attachments but was concerned it wouldn't have the reach I needed. I also considered a sickle bar but the costs were super high. I haven't seen the samurai but will check it out. If you do it get it, let me know how it works! Thanks!
Did you build the pond or was it pre-existing?
Pond is about 50 years old I believe... It's very healthy but has quite a bit of muck and sediment... average depth of probably 4-5' with deepest at 12 near where we swim... Did you build yours?
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors the two smalls ones were preexisting. I’m attempting to navigate the hoops to build a 4 acre pond.
@@CairnCreek nice. Mine is somewhere between 3-4... was a damned up ravine.
Why is it so high off the ground? Most flails work better with roller on ground and top link all the way out to avoid scalping. Also, filled tires and left wheel weight will help with the tippy feeling.
I'll have to review again, but scalping was the main issue i've faced and also with the pond edge it can quickly grab and pull the implement and tractor into toward the water/mud. I'm honestly still trying to find the sweet spot with this thing... only two positions on the roller and the toplink has a float position and a fixed position... Will be trying it again soon once things dry out a bit. I've held off on filled tires as my yard is often soft, but I've reached out to RimGuard to find local companies that can fill them, and also the left wheel weight is probably a must to help counter balance. Need to look into those.
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors I ran a slope mower 30+ years ago, a DLB Case. In addition to the huge hydro tank for the mower mounted on opposite side, we had 4 100# weights on left tire. Did a lot of steep ditch/lake bank mowing with it. And yes, your butt would try and rip the seat off the tractor sometimes. 😉😉
@@arlisspropertyservicesllc5943 lol... i'm on a slight slope and I can relate to that pucker factor comment... haha... i put my little Massey into the edge 3 times... this tractor has a much higher center of gravity and may not be so easy to remove... I really want to love this attachment but sounds like i need some tractor modifications to make it work for me. Thanks for the perspective, it is much appreciated!
Sickle mower on a two wheeled tractor like a BCS might work good in this application. Light footprint and can put the end of the sickle into the water.
That might just be the answer. Thanks foe the suggestion!
Same issues, same sized pond, same state, went through the same progression of equipment besides the offset....looking for solutions. Something about flipping a tractor into the pond scares the crap out of me...
You and me both. I still have the offset and I use it 1-2 times a year but haven’t used it this year and will likely go back to the weed eater. I so wanted this to be the answer but for now it still makes me super uneasy.
I am looking at a Lane Shark now...do not know much about them but so far looks promising. @@HardyBrothersOutdoors
Yes I’ve considered that route too. I’ll need to get a 3rd function which I’ve not done yet.
Attach chain on the pto cover.
I’ll take a look at that; not sure why I didn’t... usually do. Thanks for pointing that out.
Excavator with a mulching head is the right tool for that pond bank!
That big heavy tractor within 6 feet of the bank is going to be squirrelly. Even a big bad Ventrac sporting duals, running their offset sickle bar mower will have challenges if you drive too close to the edge (as will a track loader). When you feel like you're going to tip toward the mower, lower it (and cut power), rather than raise it. Then figure out the next course of action as appropriate.
But this is a good review and I am considering an offset flail mower also. I think your scalping problem is more your terrain than the flail mower. Bush hogs will scalp too if set too low.
Great feedback and I agree on all points. I just cut again the other day and the uneven terrain resulted in all sorts of scalping. Thanks for watching and commenting.
What is the price point on these babies?
Looks like they are currently priced at $2199 from Titan. Here is my affiliate link so you can check them out... ibit.ly/uAwI Don't forget that you need two rear remote hydraulics to use this... that cost me another $1200 from John Deere to buy and have installed. Let me know if you have any questions!
The problems all began with the Ryobi string trimmer.
Yessir, you could say that... :-) and with the fact that I'm getting old and i'm managing too many properties... I need an easy solution! :-). Thanks for watching and commenting!
If the mower is in the ground it will be more stable. I don't think you have it adjusted correctly when your having as many issues as you are having. I run a double flail in the fall for work
Thanks for the feedback, I definitely don’t feel I have it dialed in yet. When you see it riding high those are areas where I could feel it dipping down too low into the pond and it seems to dig in and pull the tractor. Will keep at it because I want it to be the quickest and easiest method; especially after the investment. Lol.
@@HardyBrothersOutdoors I think once you get it dialed in it should work great for your needs . I watched it again and there are no skid shoes.......so I'm guessing it needs to be leveled with links. On the big ones at work they have shoes and just ride on the roller and shoe......don't feel tippy till you start lifting then you can feel it. Sorry if my comment came off harsh was not my intent
Hey Mike, not harsh at all I really appreciate the feedback. I’m still learning and I love that folks like yourself are able to provide some insights, it’s what I love about RUclips. Again really appreciate you taking the time to share your experience and suggestions. I’m gonna be mowing with it again soon and will spend some time trying to dial it in better.
I didn't even KNOW the word "Flail Mower" about 2 weeks ago, so take this with a grain of salt. I have, however, been watching a TON of videos and trying to learn as much as I can about them, because I'm really interested in getting one. In fact, for the money, I think the one you have is the one I'll end up going with (The Titan one). I think I'll go with the 65" though just so I can get a little longer reach. The 65" is a little less than 200 lbs more in weight. Anyway, it seems like your roller is not touching the ground alot of the time in your video while you're cutting. I *think* the roller is an integral part of the process AND helps lessen some of the constant load on the 3 point, which would probably lessen some of your pucker factor and the feeling of tipping over, since most of its weight would be riding on the roller. I also am wondering if because the tip of yours rides down in the water alot if it's kicking up water onto the bank, making it soft and then chopping it up giving it that scalped look? Like, maybe it's the perfect storm to keeping you not 100% satisfied? I have a creek that passes through my property that most of the year only has a small amount of (constant) water trickling by.....well, that creek likes to grow out of control so that's what I'll be using this for. In most places along the creek it is deep (not the water, just the bottom of the creek bed is deep down there) so I'm hoping I can tilt this flail mower and cut along that creek bank. I'm like you where I have used the trimmer, now we have tried to use the push mower and were considering the push trimmer..........then I found the Flail Mower. We shall see......good luck!
Hey thanks for the comments and suggestions. I've not figured out how to get it dialed in for sure... the roller only has two positions and the prior one i was getting scalping and this one it seems if i lower it so its rolling I get scalping... i've noticed that any commercial unit has a counterbalance weight system on the opposite side of the flail... be careful with your deep ditches it won't take much, a small hole or something, to possibly cause a tip. It's almost dry enough for me to give it another try here soon. The wet issues are because of the rains and the proximity to the pond edge... i hope to figure it out this year. would love to use it more often but now I only use it maybe 3 times per year.
that would work for me an you said $2300!?
Looks like they are currently $2179... here is my affiliate link if you want to check them out; titanattachments.sjv.io/xk2EVy
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What is the cost of a flail on an arm, would seem much safer and more flexible...?
Looks like they are currently selling for $3800... I wanna say mine was closer to $2800 when I bought it but I also had $1000 in putting in the rear remotes on my JD. I wish I had bought a wider one to get more reach but the 48" one was what was rated for my tractor.
Try wheel spacers,weights
I have the spacers but no weights. I’m not sure I mentioned it in the video but did in a recent FB post that I’m concerned about the weights sinking me in near the ponds edge. I’ve stayed away from filled tires and weights as my time to mow is usually on the weekends when I’m here so I’ve not wanted to rut the yard anymore that it already does. But will check into the recommend, thanks!
Maybe regrade your pond edge
LOL, you are right on the money... I just mowed again the other day, video forthcoming, and I concluded I'm not going to solve this issue without some major change... more reach on the mower possibly would help but that means a new one, or regrading could work. It is just too soft closer to the pond.
beats draggng your tractor out of tha pond but 72 inch would do a better job gota stay away from them muskrat holes
72" be great but I don't think my tractor could handle it, even just transporting it around... they are heavy and definitely offset the balance on the tractor...
Should of bought a cycle mower
They were 3x the price but I may still end up doing that. Do you have one?
ventrac will solve all your problems
yeh that would be nice to have for sure... I've seen the ads but haven't ever really looked at them closely.
Will not do it this way because I don’t want to kill any hibernating creatures
You don’t have a pond, do you?
You are degrading your pond by mowing to the waters edge and blowing the grass clippings into the water. The phosphorus from the grass clippings supports algae growth and if the pond water is not flushed over time it will supply internal loading of phosphorus. Do a little research on impaired waters.
Thanks for the comment Joe. I actually am pretty careful to minimize the amount of grass that goes into the pond and have found that one of the benefits of the flail mower is that it doesn’t throw much of it like the trimmers do. The pond is over 50 years old and is quite healthy but has a fair amount of muck as a result of all the surrounding trees and leaves that drop each year. I also only mow like this about 3-4 times a year. I’ll read up on impaired waters.