Thank you, I really appreciate that. I keep recording ones and then scrapping the idea as I don’t feel there is a useful lesson. I’m glad I didn’t scrap this one. Thanks for watching!
I've been using the ECT3000 for about 10 years and it has worked very well for me. I know some people say it doesn't work, but they're obviously not using it correctly. I use that along with a 5 amp test light and amp clamp to find shorts. But that tool has been good to me and finding opens with it is extremely easy.
For me it puts me in the general vicinity, but I’ll agree on the the fact that I’m not using it correctly. Do you have any videos showing you using it to find open circuits?
@@TiosAutoDiagnostics I don't make videos, but power probe makes a video demonstrating it. Opens/cut wires are easy because it stops beeping where it's cut and only beeps on that specific wire on high or low sensitivity..,The short to ground is more difficult, because it'll beep on anything that's ground, which is the whole body and other ground wires, however, adjusting the sensitivity to very low sensitivity causes it to beep on only your wire. I hope you continue making videos, I enjoy watching people do electrical diagnostics and there's not too many doing it.
nice talk on circuit design and how to use it ,find a fault,wierd how i fix cars all day ,come home ,have my dinner,watch people fix cars,can never know to much ,got keep learning ,i see people change parts on a po number ,but i tell them its in 3 parts,module,wire/plug,sensor, have used light bulb for a fuse as well,plug light into fuse holder on 2 wires,would love to spend the day with you ,be great,learn lots stuff,got pass your skills on to the next generation
I would like to talk to you. I’ve been having trouble with my 2004 GMC Yukon going into limp mode. I have changed the throttle body, tac module, gas pedal sensor, and the pcm idk what else to do
One of your modules is seeing a value out of range. Even if momentary, it will stay in limp mode until fixed. The trick is to find the reporting sensor or module and then test back to the source. I had a gm once that was in limp mode and it coded for the app sensor, cam sensor and a few others, all components listed in the scan report were replaced by the shop but the EGR solenoid was the root cause which never coded in the computer so the shop didn’t know. It’s all about knowing the system and what you expect to see when testing and then determining why the system doesn’t agree with your findings. I hope that makes sense, it’s just really difficult to diagnose without testing.
Really like the step by step. Not just showing what the fix is. Actually showing how you found the fix. This is continuing education.
Thank you, I really appreciate that. I keep recording ones and then scrapping the idea as I don’t feel there is a useful lesson. I’m glad I didn’t scrap this one. Thanks for watching!
This is shaping up to be an awesome channel!
Thank you
I've been using the ECT3000 for about 10 years and it has worked very well for me. I know some people say it doesn't work, but they're obviously not using it correctly. I use that along with a 5 amp test light and amp clamp to find shorts. But that tool has been good to me and finding opens with it is extremely easy.
For me it puts me in the general vicinity, but I’ll agree on the the fact that I’m not using it correctly. Do you have any videos showing you using it to find open circuits?
@@TiosAutoDiagnostics I don't make videos, but power probe makes a video demonstrating it. Opens/cut wires are easy because it stops beeping where it's cut and only beeps on that specific wire on high or low sensitivity..,The short to ground is more difficult, because it'll beep on anything that's ground, which is the whole body and other ground wires, however, adjusting the sensitivity to very low sensitivity causes it to beep on only your wire. I hope you continue making videos, I enjoy watching people do electrical diagnostics and there's not too many doing it.
I have the same Power Probe kit and like using the tone generator as well. Like you said it gets you in the area which saves a lot of time.
Back in the 70s all you needed was an overrated fuse and water hose lol boy how times have changed
Nice Diag!
nice talk on circuit design and how to use it ,find a fault,wierd how i fix cars all day ,come home ,have my dinner,watch people fix cars,can never know to much ,got keep learning ,i see people change parts on a po number ,but i tell them its in 3 parts,module,wire/plug,sensor, have used light bulb for a fuse as well,plug light into fuse holder on 2 wires,would love to spend the day with you ,be great,learn lots stuff,got pass your skills on to the next generation
I would like to talk to you. I’ve been having trouble with my 2004 GMC Yukon going into limp mode. I have changed the throttle body, tac module, gas pedal sensor, and the pcm idk what else to do
One of your modules is seeing a value out of range. Even if momentary, it will stay in limp mode until fixed. The trick is to find the reporting sensor or module and then test back to the source. I had a gm once that was in limp mode and it coded for the app sensor, cam sensor and a few others, all components listed in the scan report were replaced by the shop but the EGR solenoid was the root cause which never coded in the computer so the shop didn’t know. It’s all about knowing the system and what you expect to see when testing and then determining why the system doesn’t agree with your findings. I hope that makes sense, it’s just really difficult to diagnose without testing.
Discard the parts canon and partner up with a qualified technician to save money before you end up replacing the rest of the vehicle.