Great job in identifying the diagnosis and pointing out what a short is. A lot of RUclips video are calling parasitic draws shorts, which is wrong. A parasitic draw drains, while a short burns things, such as fuses.
Dudes with real world skills like this Rule. I have no use for celebrities, pro athletes, politicians and ‘winners’ at the club. Stay Awesome Brother 😎🎩♠️💙
As an electrician i agree the is the most efficient way to find a short....yes having a tester that makes a sound is way better than a light. Voltmeter with an audio continuity feature. Always break the problem circuit in half test both sides, then open halfway again if possible... Helps isolate it faster...
An even easier way is to use a DVOM. Ground the negative lead of the meter and put the other end of the meter to the fuse output (this one will give you continuity to the ground). Select continuity on the DVOM (the one that makes noise when there is continuity). Then disconnect connectors or components until the DVOM does not give out a tone. This way you don't have to be looking at the light all the time you can go by sound when there is no more short to ground.
@@raynic1173 it's not too bad at all plus you don't have to keep going back and look at the light because sound travels all over but you have to go back and look at the light all the time.
Both ways are correct, just have to know how to read a meter is all. 0.1-0.3 is normal and you add a point for every module the circuit runs through so 0.6 or 7 is fine if it has the additional modules if not then you have a bad or shaky ground.
Nice job diagnosing the problem using a solid but simple and effective technique. Might add that whenever you have a (new) problem that appears to be a result of other work done on the vehicle, its a good general practice to do a solid visual inspection of the area where the work was done. It's very common for things not to be fully reassembled or properly reassembled when components are replaced. Especially if it required removing interior and/or dash assemblies. Thanks for the video and the tips.
One example of that that comes to mind is when you get a new radiator, then take your ride to someone else for something else entirely, and they tell you someone forgot to fill your new, empty radiator (after that--and it was a reputable place I've gone to for years that I will not slam because I'll probably keep going back--I do some checking after that one and I'm supposed to be the idiot when it comes to practical matters).
My uncle (electrician) taught me that trick when I was a kid. Definitely comes in handy. To one’s not understanding how it works it’s very simple at a fuse you shouldn’t have a strong enough ground to light an incandescent bulb. If it lights there is a short to ground in that circuit. Then old fashioned short tracing after that.
There could be loads down circuit which will cause the light to illuminate when the short is gone. A high current incandescent lamp such as a headlamp will reduce this possibility.
@JarheadDiagnostics how did you determine there is power running from fuse 12 to connector C3 ?? I get C2 but C3 is in a completely different location than C2 help please 😢
Thank you very much…. I watched this video long time ago, when you posted first time….. last week I received a Chavy impala with fuse emission 2 15 amp keep blowing, 2 workmates didn’t figure it out and they replaced that fuse….. my service manager handed to me… I figured out there is a short by using power probe and no tone or light on the ground side…. It was not convincing… I remembered your video and attached the light bulb and that helped me a lot…. Found the bank 2 sensor 2 O2 sensor rubbing against the CV axle…..Thank you
Been using that method FOREVER, back in the day, I would use a 4652 headlight and because of padded dash tops, I would lay the headlamp on a ceramic tile on top of the dash so I could see the light while pushing and tugging slightly harness.
Helpful. Have a short to ground in my beloved 1988 Cherokee Laredo 4.0. Spent many hours studying schematics and trying to track it down. DIY person. Will if I learned something here today.
As soon as you said it had a new heater core put in, I figured the problem would be in that area. If I know someone has previously worked on the car, I would give that area a quick visual first. Good way to show how to use a test light.
I've also seen guys use a noise maker of some type in place of the bulb. It would make it so you don't actually need to see the bulb each time. Nice and simple way to show this.
Yeah, and it doesn't help that so many content creators who make "educational" videos like this one assume that all viewers know what the video creator knows and so don't bother explaining things sufficiently as they go along. If I knew what this guy knows, I wouldn't need to watch his video. Like when he says "As you can tell... there's a short to ground...". Don't assume that the viewer can tell anything or even knows what's going on! Say WHY you know there's a short to ground... "The light is on which means there's a short to ground, possibly/probably caused by... etc." A little bit of explanation goes a long way and makes the video exponentially more useful to more viewers, the people he's supposedly trying to teach.
DMM input impedance too high; you'll read ghost voltage if there is leakage in circuit. Without a load, you might waste time following leakage paths. If you choose not to use a ballast lamp technique, then select an appropriate shunt resistor to substitute for fuse, and use DMM to measure voltage across that.
It's shorted out, all the way to the ground post , isolated , no ground hooked up. And I have 12.6 to ground post of the car frame , all the fuses is 12.6, alternator has 12.6 volts on the terminal side and the ground side. I reversed the process isolated the positive and of course it has ground all the way through. I pulled fuses and relays and no voltage drop. The only thing I did not unplug is the ECM. So I have closed relay or a exposed positive wire touching the frame. But I have a power probe 3 and a signal tester for breaks. It's a chrysler sebring 2006 2.7 litter . Be for the wife broke down the battery light came on, wife said smoke came from the passenger side of the engine.
Hahaha I def did that a few times myself in the past - - I get it bro - - keep at it, you'll get more confident. Took me messing up all kinds of electronics, guitar amps, stereos, microphones etc to learn from my mistakes, but automotive electrical is like a while different planet sometimes! Get a good old fashioned shop repair manual for your car and read the schematics and read the part that tells you HOW to read the schematics! That will help
There is also another way, to use a constant current supply set at about 10A and follow the heat with a thermal imager. The possible problem with that is that during the test it could cause the short to go away and then you can't find it until it comes back. I did a heater core on a Saturn and after wards you turn the key, the engine would start but when released to run position the engine would shut down. [It would only run during cranking.] Part of the procedure was to pull the center console and disconnecting some block connectors to remove the dash panel. I traced the problem to one of the connectors where during reassembly one of the pins got bent over. It was a long sliding mating with an 8mm bolt to draw the connectors together making it fool proof. [similar to a bulkhead or PCM connector] I have no idea how one of the pins could have bent over other than being slightly out of alignment so during the mating process it folded over. What ever, I found the problem, straightened the pin and everything was fine.
We were taught to do a half split on the circuitry to simplify the job. Basic trouble shooting here. And hint to save fuses while doing it, haa Good work, thanks.
Not only the easiest but the best way. If you don't have a test light you can make an emergency light yourself. You need to have a wire long enough to be cut in two. The other materials are already in the car. You can use the blown fuse and any working light bulb in the car.
I've been using a sealed beam light for decades. My shop foreman convinced me a test light is adequate as long as it's not LED. I found out this week that it is NOT adequate when looking at a bad relay. I put two supercharger coolant pumps on with same results until I went back to my sealed beam. It would light up my test light, not the sealed beam. Quite a few choice words fer that one lol
@@JarheadDiagnosticslolol you must be joking right?! Lolol fuses are pretty dang cheap I bought a box and I have constant electrical problems and i still have a few dozen left.... What is a pain in the ass is the TIME it takes pulling fuses.... At least that's how I feel lol
this is a great technique. I would very much appreciate a more complete explanation of how to hook up the tester, though. Do you put its leads across the fuse connectors? put one lead on one side of fuse, the other lead on chassis somewhere? if you get no light, then move the first lead to other side of fuse? I would assume some readers know very little to start.
You put the test lead into the battery + side of the fuse holder and the other lead in the load side of the fuse holder. If there is a short the light will light up because you will have current flow. The light acts like a resistor which limits the current. This keeps you from having to replace blown fuses constantly till you find the short. Hope that helps.
There shouldnt be voltage or a lit bulb across the fuse terminals if the the switch in the affected circuit is open thus completing a path back to ground.
Had an issue on a 89 chevy truck. Tried to find it by removing fuses no luck there finally tracked it down to a worn positive battery cable shorted to the battery tray intermittently draining the battery overnight.
You can buy an in-line fuse circuit tester at any auto part store, even Walmart. It has the 2 fins Ike a fuse but each end has a wire attached so you can then attach your test light or what have you
The EASIEST way to find a short to ground is to connect one probe of a taser to ground with a test lead, then connect the problem circuit to the other probe with a second test lead. Fire up your taser, and the short location will give off very obvious visual and audible cues. If you know what ozone smells like, you can even trace it down by smell. Next week, we will discuss module replacement...
After 40 years of smelling shop chemicals, my sniffer ain't working very well. What if i combine your method with my propane enrichment tool to locate the short? [jk]
MMMMMMMAN !!!! THATS SOME AWESOME DIO MY BROTHER . here is my story i been told to share with you . 1 yr 11 months ago i drive my((((((((((( 2011 BUICK LACROSSE CXS with 3.6L engine)))))))))))))) to the V.A. HODPITAL for my doctors appointment . after i was done 3 hrs later lol , you know this as a vet yourself lol , i came to my car ,when i opened my drivers door ,i heard what sounded like a machine gun going off under the hood .got in car , pushed the starter button and wouldnt crank or start . i got out went under the hood and began investigating . i finally called for a ride and later came with tools to diagnose . i found the # 10 fuse burnt and keeps burning everytime i try to start . what gets me ,everytime i push something on my remote , first connect the battery ,open doors,trunk i hear that very rapid clicking under the hood .i towed to house and i been working on it almost 2 years since , i get frustrated and stop a while then continue eventually lol . i notice when i pull the KR71 RELAY "MITCHELL 1 CALLS IT ,BUT CHILTON CALLS IT KR75 , MY FUSES DONT BURN ANYMORE . THE # 10 fuse goes to a junction that splits into 3 wires that goes to PCM(ECM).THIS RELAY ALSO FEEDS FIUSES 8, 9 ,11, AND 47 OR 46 DEPENDING ON WHAT VERSION YOU HAVE . ! i have never encounter such a terrible problem in 40 yrs my brother . i got a overwhelming good feeling you can help me brother , strange right ? . my CODES COME UP THEN AND NOW AS UO100 AND PO23F . THE DASH ALWAYS SAID ,SOMETHING WRONG WITH STABILTY TRACK AND OBJECT DETECTION . SO MANY strange things about this one brother . any tips or ideas you may have is greatly appreciated my brother ! thank you in advance for your reply ! i have a bluedriver mod and app , powerprobe "the hook" , pp3 and ect-2000 and several test lights different kinds especially found of the computer safe one i got from harbor fright lol ,shows ground and hot , online chilton and pro demand at my disposal ! i have put die-electric grease on a lot of connections fearing fretting the most .i dont want to be a parts changer thats why im still at it , please HELLLLLP ! LOL, I JUST SUBBED ALSO BROTHER !!!
There’s about 10 electrical problems with my car. Literally. I hope doing this even helps at all considering my weakness with car mechanics is electrical stuff. The car is trash so I mean, what am I gonna lose possibly shorting something else out by trying this. (Accidentally doing or touching the wrong thing) lol
Interesting way I saw was test continuity on the circuit then unplug the loads on that circuit and the beeping should continue cause it’s shorted to ground. Then test spots until beep goes off. If you don’t have correct amperage bulb of course. But just another way I found interesting
Good video Thx , i have an old voltmeter with a bulb taped on it so can use the leads an of course working voltmeter lol an a pencil probe that pretty much covers anything anybody needs
As soon as you said new heater core the thought of pinched or crossed connection in the glove box was my first thought ….but being only shade tree level experience only ,idve gotten frustrated if I didnt notice the issue quickly ….😂
Lol, I am clueless here. I have a throttle issue that upon testing the harness. It shows short to ground. But no fuses are blown, and the relays are fine. What would you suggest I do here to the short to ground.
Great reminder to divide and conquer electrical diagram
4 месяца назад
so if your 05 suburban has crank but no start which ground do you refer to to start. ive already had two mechanics try to replace 3 sensors and also the fuel pump. no the truck kicks the starter when key is in the acessory position. however, it will not fire but will crank
He is putting one end of bulb into one leg of fuse, other bulb end to another leg of same fuse that is blowing. As there is positive short to ground it means that power supply is on one leg of same fuse , and on the other leg there should be only resistance of component or bulb or consumer if u like., but in this case there is direct connection to ground. That is how bulb he has connected to two legs of same fuse is lighting up , where under normal conditions it would not light up. Then acording to diagram he check what consumers are powered of same fuse, and disconnect them one by one until bulb stop lighting, so short to ground is eliminated. Sometimes wire can be wearing of metal chasi parts , which makes harder to find , but that is done by following the supply wire.
can anyone please help me so when you go wiggle wire harness and find the short does the bulb dim or go out completely as ive watched two vids of this method and both had light dim when found and other the bulb went out seen here?,i couldnt figure out why the bulb would go out because wouldnt this create a series circuit thus dimming both bulbs (pretend its a headlight circuit) as they now share the same circuit?
Damn!! New subscriber!! I have a 95 Roadmaster and the horn blows when the fuse is in and it goes off when I remove the fuse. It blows constantly while the fuse is in.
I have 1998 GMC Sierra c3500 I am having a problem with getting it to turn over, but I relay that my crank fuse is blown so will that stop the truck from starting.
Hi, have 2006 jeep liberty was working fine ,took keyfob from pants pocket to unlock it and the unlock button seemed stuck/depressed position ,wouldnt unlock , checked fob battery {good] used key to unlock and tried doorpad switches [didnt work either ]....would a stuck on position create a short in the power locks controller ? I then checked 20 amp fuse and it was blown replaced fuse and activated locks they work but when using unlock it blows the fuse , If i plug the test light into the fuse holder and try each switch to try and isolate def switch/motor or is it probably the wire in the door harness chafed /boken and grounding
Thanks for the excellent video. When you probed pin 7, was the lead on that probe just jumped from one side of the test light? Also, where are you located?
same question?did he jump from the test light or hook up to power from one side of the light then when he probed #7 that should be 12v power it lit up the light because the short was a path to ground.i want this to be my new method for locating shorts but need more info do you know any other vids that use the same method?
I suck at electrical, first of all. I have an 08 grand cherokee with several issues that all turned up at one time. All my brake lights, ABS, BAS traction control are all on as soon as I reach like 20mph. That was first. I took it into the shop to replace a water pump, weld up some exhaust flanges and an oil change. Picked it up and the rear door ajar light is on. Didn't think much of it. Couple days later both my power seats quit working. No movement and no heated seats. Then I noticed the pedal adjust isn't working either. I tracked down a seat/heater circuit breaker that is extremely hot. This makes me think a short somewhere but I don't know where to begin looking. I have a test light and basic home voltmeter. Any suggestions as to where to start looking?
Hey i got a 5A battery parasitic drain on my 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8. I don't see any blown fuses at all. I pulled fuse #8 and the 5A draw went down to 0.59A (spec says max is 0.05A) so I'm still 10x higher draw than normal with fuse 8 left out. How do i test the wires with a multimeter, i don't have any back probes for multimeter. Fuse 8 diagram online says it protects: Overhead Console, Rear Wiper, ip lights (instrument panel where speedometer is), rear flipper glass solenoid(have no clue) I looked inside overhead console and rear wiper and the giage cluster and checked its light bulbs for warning lights and around 7 bulbs are missing, i assume previous owner. Could these missing bulbs cause this Amp drain from battery? My other question is if it's drawing power with vehicle off, and key off whats causing that? I don't think instrument panel lights or the overhead console is ever powered without key on? Does that mean it has to be rear wiper or the rear flipper glass solenoid?
Is this safe to do always and wont fry something else? I have a blown 15A ECM fuse where thebwire goes to the ECM. Fuse blows anytime the door is opened (car wakesbup I guess). Just dont want to fry my ECM or other components using this method. But im having trouble finding where to search next!
I have a problem with a 2008 chevy tahoe Wolf power seats are not working also the Windows the fuse keep shorting out i can't find the issue on that you think you can help me finding out what you think might be the problem
In those years of the Grand Cherokees you have to remove the dash to replace the heater core. If the job was given to a low quality tech they usually ended up that way or worse with dash rattles that required the dash to be removed again. Check your work boys, if your customer has to check your work you won't have many customers left.
If you don't have a light bulb, two wires out of the fuse, cut a potato in Half and peel it, stick wire on one half of the peeled potato and stick the other one on the other half of the potato, which ever half gets dark that's your hot side. My grandfather was an engineer in the USSR, red army WW2 1939. Jokes aside. Yes he had tools. He didn't carry vegetables along.😅
I had a wire burn out on a 1998 Lexus ls400 in the kick panel fuse box i have no power on car all the fuses are good under the hood and inside the fuse box in kick panel check starter and alternator it is good have no clue what is going on can you help me
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Great job in identifying the diagnosis and pointing out what a short is. A lot of RUclips video are calling parasitic draws shorts, which is wrong. A parasitic draw drains, while a short burns things, such as fuses.
Dudes with real world skills like this Rule. I have no use for celebrities, pro athletes, politicians and ‘winners’ at the club. Stay Awesome Brother
😎🎩♠️💙
As an electrician i agree the is the most efficient way to find a short....yes having a tester that makes a sound is way better than a light. Voltmeter with an audio continuity feature. Always break the problem circuit in half test both sides, then open halfway again if possible... Helps isolate it faster...
An even easier way is to use a DVOM. Ground the negative lead of the meter and put the other end of the meter to the fuse output (this one will give you continuity to the ground). Select continuity on the DVOM (the one that makes noise when there is continuity). Then disconnect connectors or components until the DVOM does not give out a tone. This way you don't have to be looking at the light all the time you can go by sound when there is no more short to ground.
but have tht think buzzing the whole time? Not sure that's worth it.
@@raynic1173 it's not too bad at all plus you don't have to keep going back and look at the light because sound travels all over but you have to go back and look at the light all the time.
No go. You have to draw current through the test lamp to eliminate "weak" earth/ground through motors, bulbs other "consumers."
The DVOM is not enough of a load. I've had circuits that the DVOM said had 12v but would not carry the load
Both ways are correct, just have to know how to read a meter is all. 0.1-0.3 is normal and you add a point for every module the circuit runs through so 0.6 or 7 is fine if it has the additional modules if not then you have a bad or shaky ground.
Nice job diagnosing the problem using a solid but simple and effective technique. Might add that whenever you have a (new) problem that appears to be a result of other work done on the vehicle, its a good general practice to do a solid visual inspection of the area where the work was done. It's very common for things not to be fully reassembled or properly reassembled when components are replaced. Especially if it required removing interior and/or dash assemblies. Thanks for the video and the tips.
One example of that that comes to mind is when you get a new radiator, then take your ride to someone else for something else entirely, and they tell you someone forgot to fill your new, empty radiator (after that--and it was a reputable place I've gone to for years that I will not slam because I'll probably keep going back--I do some checking after that one and I'm supposed to be the idiot when it comes to practical matters).
My uncle (electrician) taught me that trick when I was a kid. Definitely comes in handy. To one’s not understanding how it works it’s very simple at a fuse you shouldn’t have a strong enough ground to light an incandescent bulb. If it lights there is a short to ground in that circuit. Then old fashioned short tracing after that.
Very true!
There could be loads down circuit which will cause the light to illuminate when the short is gone. A high current incandescent lamp such as a headlamp will reduce this possibility.
@JarheadDiagnostics how did you determine there is power running from fuse 12 to connector C3 ?? I get C2 but C3 is in a completely different location than C2 help please 😢
Then old fashioned short tracing after that.? please tell me how..
@@shaquillemajor1520He used a Wiring Diagram.😉🇺🇸
Thank you very much…. I watched this video long time ago, when you posted first time….. last week I received a Chavy impala with fuse emission 2 15 amp keep blowing, 2 workmates didn’t figure it out and they replaced that fuse….. my service manager handed to me… I figured out there is a short by using power probe and no tone or light on the ground side…. It was not convincing… I remembered your video and attached the light bulb and that helped me a lot…. Found the bank 2 sensor 2 O2 sensor rubbing against the CV axle…..Thank you
Awesome find!
How do i get wiring fiagrams like you have here on ur laptop ? @@JarheadDiagnostics
This kind of electrical diagnostics ability is hard to find. Nice job explaining it.
it is like true voodoo to me
Been using that method FOREVER, back in the day, I would use a 4652 headlight and because of padded dash tops, I would lay the headlamp on a ceramic tile on top of the dash so I could see the light while pushing and tugging slightly harness.
They call that the wiggle test.
Thanks!
Well…definitely not a video for the average guy who has no experience with mechanical/electrical work.
That would be me@@Hulk-mc7bp
Helpful. Have a short to ground in my beloved 1988 Cherokee Laredo 4.0. Spent many hours studying schematics and trying to track it down. DIY person. Will if I learned something here today.
wow, you made that look real easy when its actually a pain. someones lucky to have you around.
The best ACTUAL short to ground video I've seen..needed a refresher. Youre awesome. Subbing.
As soon as you said it had a new heater core put in, I figured the problem would be in that area. If I know someone has previously worked on the car, I would give that area a quick visual first.
Good way to show how to use a test light.
I fully agree with you!
A semi tractor low air warning beeper also works well . If it is too loud place layers of electrical tape over the audio hole .
I COULD ONLY IMAGINE HOW SWEET A TOUR OF THAT VAN WOULD BE. GREAT TIP AND THANKS FOR YOUR TIME !
I've also seen guys use a noise maker of some type in place of the bulb. It would make it so you don't actually need to see the bulb each time. Nice and simple way to show this.
Our updated video has that in it! Excellent use for sure!
The Best Way To Find A Shorted Circuit!!
ruclips.net/video/Lfk-vmeK4G0/видео.html
Thanks! I'll have to watch that one also.@@JarheadDiagnostics
Took me watching videos on these topics for a year for it to finally sink in 🤯
Well, stated, these shorts can be a hard find without this training. Thank you! Liked and subscribed!
Yeah, and it doesn't help that so many content creators who make "educational" videos like this one assume that all viewers know what the video creator knows and so don't bother explaining things sufficiently as they go along. If I knew what this guy knows, I wouldn't need to watch his video. Like when he says "As you can tell... there's a short to ground...". Don't assume that the viewer can tell anything or even knows what's going on! Say WHY you know there's a short to ground... "The light is on which means there's a short to ground, possibly/probably caused by... etc." A little bit of explanation goes a long way and makes the video exponentially more useful to more viewers, the people he's supposedly trying to teach.
You can set your DMM on DC voltage in place of the light. And as long as there is a short to ground it will show the circuit voltage.
True. But a light is good, simple, and easily seen from a distances.
DMM input impedance too high; you'll read ghost voltage if there is leakage in circuit. Without a load, you might waste time following leakage paths. If you choose not to use a ballast lamp technique, then select an appropriate shunt resistor to substitute for fuse, and use DMM to measure voltage across that.
Only if all other loads are removed and there are many on this circuit it's a fake vidio
Brilliant just what needed thanks big love❤
It's shorted out, all the way to the ground post , isolated , no ground hooked up. And I have 12.6 to ground post of the car frame , all the fuses is 12.6, alternator has 12.6 volts on the terminal side and the ground side. I reversed the process isolated the positive and of course it has ground all the way through. I pulled fuses and relays and no voltage drop. The only thing I did not unplug is the ECM. So I have closed relay or a exposed positive wire touching the frame. But I have a power probe 3 and a signal tester for breaks. It's a chrysler sebring 2006 2.7 litter . Be for the wife broke down the battery light came on, wife said smoke came from the passenger side of the engine.
Damn, you are one of my heroes ;-) . I usually make the sign of the cross when it comes to electrical problems.
Hahaha I def did that a few times myself in the past - - I get it bro - - keep at it, you'll get more confident. Took me messing up all kinds of electronics, guitar amps, stereos, microphones etc to learn from my mistakes, but automotive electrical is like a while different planet sometimes! Get a good old fashioned shop repair manual for your car and read the schematics and read the part that tells you HOW to read the schematics! That will help
I didn't understand what you were saying until you showed the harness was short to ground on the frame. But I appreciate your information thanks
There is also another way, to use a constant current supply set at about 10A and follow the heat with a thermal imager. The possible problem with that is that during the test it could cause the short to go away and then you can't find it until it comes back. I did a heater core on a Saturn and after wards you turn the key, the engine would start but when released to run position the engine would shut down. [It would only run during cranking.] Part of the procedure was to pull the center console and disconnecting some block connectors to remove the dash panel. I traced the problem to one of the connectors where during reassembly one of the pins got bent over. It was a long sliding mating with an 8mm bolt to draw the connectors together making it fool proof. [similar to a bulkhead or PCM connector] I have no idea how one of the pins could have bent over other than being slightly out of alignment so during the mating process it folded over. What ever, I found the problem, straightened the pin and everything was fine.
I don’t know if I would trust supplying current enough to have it register on a thermal imager. Doesn’t seem as safe.
@@JarheadDiagnostics Simply do not exceed the CC supply value greater than the original fuse rating.
Thank you my brother you're the greatest I like your calm demeanor
We were taught to do a half split on the circuitry to simplify the job. Basic trouble shooting here. And hint to save fuses while doing it, haa Good work, thanks.
I have neither the experience nor the knowledge to perform this task. But I sure like to learn new things! Thanks!
Quick and easy to comprehend video, thank you! 👍👍
Was there a specific fuse cavity that you placed the test light before pulling the connectors?
Not only the easiest but the best way. If you don't have a test light you can make an emergency light yourself. You need to have a wire long enough to be cut in two. The other materials are already in the car. You can use the blown fuse and any working light bulb in the car.
Your a liar
Seems like a great idea, can’t wait to try it out.
I've been using a sealed beam light for decades. My shop foreman convinced me a test light is adequate as long as it's not LED. I found out this week that it is NOT adequate when looking at a bad relay. I put two supercharger coolant pumps on with same results until I went back to my sealed beam. It would light up my test light, not the sealed beam. Quite a few choice words fer that one lol
First? My favorite method as well! 5A test light works well. Sweet diag van 😁👍
Thank man! And yeah, it’s great way to save money on fuses. Lol
@@JarheadDiagnostics Keith DeFazio always used a Pulsar tool for shorts, but they are hard to find and kind of bulky
@@JarheadDiagnosticslolol you must be joking right?! Lolol fuses are pretty dang cheap I bought a box and I have constant electrical problems and i still have a few dozen left.... What is a pain in the ass is the TIME it takes pulling fuses.... At least that's how I feel lol
@@patmurch6184But why spend the money at all on fuses when ya don't have to. Make money, don't spend it.😉😁🇺🇸
@@thor68372rockon agreed mayn
this is a great technique. I would very much appreciate a more complete explanation of how to hook up the tester, though. Do you put its leads across the fuse connectors? put one lead on one side of fuse, the other lead on chassis somewhere? if you get no light, then move the first lead to other side of fuse? I would assume some readers know very little to start.
Yup, that would be me. Watched this video and got nothing because how the test leads were hooked up wasn’t explained.
You put the test lead into the battery + side of the fuse holder and the other lead in the load side of the fuse holder. If there is a short the light will light up because you will have current flow. The light acts like a resistor which limits the current. This keeps you from having to replace blown fuses constantly till you find the short. Hope that helps.
There shouldnt be voltage or a lit bulb across the fuse terminals if the the switch in the affected circuit is open thus completing a path back to ground.
Please explain how you hook up the test light, I know nothing...lol
How do you know the battery side from the load side
Had an issue on a 89 chevy truck. Tried to find it by removing fuses no luck there finally tracked it down to a worn positive battery cable shorted to the battery tray intermittently draining the battery overnight.
awesome! very simple once you lay it out like that. thank you, much appreciated
A blown fuse and a buzzer soldered to it works great to find a short too.
That's a great idea.
i'M BUMMED rADIO sHACK ISN'T AROUND FOR THE SHORT TRIP TO GET COMMON ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS. nOW IT'S A DDRAG
How did you wire up and make your test light that can be put in the fuse locations????
a light and one wire end to one of the fuse side and the other wire to the other side .
You can buy an in-line fuse circuit tester at any auto part store, even Walmart. It has the 2 fins Ike a fuse but each end has a wire attached so you can then attach your test light or what have you
The EASIEST way to find a short to ground is to connect one probe of a taser to ground with a test lead, then connect the problem circuit to the other probe with a second test lead. Fire up your taser, and the short location will give off very obvious visual and audible cues. If you know what ozone smells like, you can even trace it down by smell.
Next week, we will discuss module replacement...
After 40 years of smelling shop chemicals, my sniffer ain't working very well. What if i combine your method with my propane enrichment tool to locate the short? [jk]
@@hightttech I’d recommend stepping up to hydrogen to make sure you find it. Lol
Any of you guys have a match?
I like the light bulb trick, I'll be using that!
Thanks for sharing this brother, I’m dealing with this issue in my car.
Greatly appreciated and I’m your newest subscriber 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great short informative video. Where can I get wire diagram schematics
You would have to remove any loads in the circuit or th bulb would light up which in many cases such as lighting would be alot
Just depends on what loads are in the system vs where the short is in the circuit. But that is a good point.
Any load would complete circuit
Beautifully done.
Thank you.
happy watching for reviewing,thanks sir❤❤
MMMMMMMAN !!!! THATS SOME AWESOME DIO MY BROTHER . here is my story i been told to share with you . 1 yr 11 months ago i drive my((((((((((( 2011 BUICK LACROSSE CXS with 3.6L engine)))))))))))))) to the V.A. HODPITAL for my doctors appointment . after i was done 3 hrs later lol , you know this as a vet yourself lol , i came to my car ,when i opened my drivers door ,i heard what sounded like a machine gun going off under the hood .got in car , pushed the starter button and wouldnt crank or start . i got out went under the hood and began investigating . i finally called for a ride and later came with tools to diagnose . i found the # 10 fuse burnt and keeps burning everytime i try to start . what gets me ,everytime i push something on my remote , first connect the battery ,open doors,trunk i hear that very rapid clicking under the hood .i towed to house and i been working on it almost 2 years since , i get frustrated and stop a while then continue eventually lol . i notice when i pull the KR71 RELAY "MITCHELL 1 CALLS IT ,BUT CHILTON CALLS IT KR75 , MY FUSES DONT BURN ANYMORE . THE # 10 fuse goes to a junction that splits into 3 wires that goes to PCM(ECM).THIS RELAY ALSO FEEDS FIUSES 8, 9 ,11, AND 47 OR 46 DEPENDING ON WHAT VERSION YOU HAVE . ! i have never encounter such a terrible problem in 40 yrs my brother . i got a overwhelming good feeling you can help me brother , strange right ? . my CODES COME UP THEN AND NOW AS UO100 AND PO23F . THE DASH ALWAYS SAID ,SOMETHING WRONG WITH STABILTY TRACK AND OBJECT DETECTION . SO MANY strange things about this one brother . any tips or ideas you may have is greatly appreciated my brother ! thank you in advance for your reply ! i have a bluedriver mod and app , powerprobe "the hook" , pp3 and ect-2000 and several test lights different kinds especially found of the computer safe one i got from harbor fright lol ,shows ground and hot , online chilton and pro demand at my disposal ! i have put die-electric grease on a lot of connections fearing fretting the most .i dont want to be a parts changer thats why im still at it , please HELLLLLP ! LOL, I JUST SUBBED ALSO BROTHER !!!
There’s about 10 electrical problems with my car. Literally. I hope doing this even helps at all considering my weakness with car mechanics is electrical stuff. The car is trash so I mean, what am I gonna lose possibly shorting something else out by trying this. (Accidentally doing or touching the wrong thing) lol
Link to the tools used to connect to the fuse box?
Thank you, this helped solve my problem.
Interesting way I saw was test continuity on the circuit then unplug the loads on that circuit and the beeping should continue cause it’s shorted to ground. Then test spots until beep goes off. If you don’t have correct amperage bulb of course. But just another way I found interesting
Love the van!
Good video Thx , i have an old voltmeter with a bulb taped on it so can use the leads an of course working voltmeter lol an a pencil probe that pretty much covers anything anybody needs
It may have been short but, it was good.
She was just being nice 😂
Nice diagnostic process.
Interesting and informative, at least what you could hear of it -
Where do you get the schematics to find out which connector youre looking ar
As soon as you said new heater core the thought of pinched or crossed connection in the glove box was my first thought ….but being only shade tree level experience only ,idve gotten frustrated if I didnt notice the issue quickly ….😂
I place a wire in the fuse position and turn on the juice. Follow the melted wire and you have found your short.
Lol, I am clueless here. I have a throttle issue that upon testing the harness. It shows short to ground. But no fuses are blown, and the relays are fine. What would you suggest I do here to the short to ground.
i want this to be my go to method but a few things confusing would you be willing to make another video when you do another short to ground?
Great video! Hoping for your help on a Toyota Highlander 2006. High beam come on with the switch in low beam. Low beam doesn't work.
The light is a cool trick. Thanks
Exactly the approach I use, after deciding which circuit it is.
I have been waiting for this all of my life. Thank you and God Bless AmeriCawCaw!!! *FLIES AWAY ON BALD EAGLE*
Great reminder to divide and conquer electrical diagram
so if your 05 suburban has crank but no start which ground do you refer to to start. ive already had two mechanics try to replace 3 sensors and also the fuel pump. no the truck kicks the starter when key is in the acessory position. however, it will not fire but will crank
Super simple and effective ! I like it!
Not understanding what your touching with pin 7. Ground? 12v?
He is putting one end of bulb into one leg of fuse, other bulb end to another leg of same fuse that is blowing. As there is positive short to ground it means that power supply is on one leg of same fuse , and on the other leg there should be only resistance of component or bulb or consumer if u like., but in this case there is direct connection to ground. That is how bulb he has connected to two legs of same fuse is lighting up , where under normal conditions it would not light up. Then acording to diagram he check what consumers are powered of same fuse, and disconnect them one by one until bulb stop lighting, so short to ground is eliminated.
Sometimes wire can be wearing of metal chasi parts , which makes harder to find , but that is done by following the supply wire.
Could you have done the same thing with a DMM? Set to oms with the test tone.
You can set your DMM on DC voltage. And as long as there is a short to ground it will show the circuit voltage.
Hi, you have inserted the plug inside the fuse connected with bulb, what does it call and from where can i buy it?
Those are front probes. They’re available from many different manufactures.
can anyone please help me
so when you go wiggle wire harness and find the short does the bulb dim or go out completely as ive watched two vids of this method and both had light dim when found and other the bulb went out seen here?,i couldnt figure out why the bulb would go out because wouldnt this create a series circuit thus dimming both bulbs (pretend its a headlight circuit) as they now share the same circuit?
Damn!! New subscriber!! I have a 95 Roadmaster and the horn blows when the fuse is in and it goes off when I remove the fuse. It blows constantly while the fuse is in.
Excellent video Brandon.
I have 1998 GMC Sierra c3500 I am having a problem with getting it to turn over, but I relay that my crank fuse is blown so will that stop the truck from starting.
Good video, how about CAN is short to the ground issue?
You failed to explain how you had your test light hooked up at 3:32 as it looks like you changed it
Hi, have 2006 jeep liberty was working fine ,took keyfob from pants pocket to unlock it and the unlock button seemed stuck/depressed position ,wouldnt unlock , checked fob battery {good] used key to unlock and tried doorpad switches [didnt work either ]....would a stuck on position create a short in the power locks controller ? I then checked 20 amp fuse and it was blown replaced fuse and activated locks they work but when using unlock it blows the fuse , If i plug the test light into the fuse holder and try each switch to try and isolate def switch/motor or is it probably the wire in the door harness chafed /boken and grounding
Absolute legend. Can you recommend someone to do this level of diagnosing in San Antonio texas?
Thanks for the excellent video. When you probed pin 7, was the lead on that probe just jumped from one side of the test light? Also, where are you located?
same question?did he jump from the test light or hook up to power from one side of the light then when he probed #7 that should be 12v power it lit up the light because the short was a path to ground.i want this to be my new method for locating shorts but need more info do you know any other vids that use the same method?
So, you were connecting the light to the left or right terminal of the fuse?
Both. The light is going in line to act as the fuse.
nice find
I suck at electrical, first of all. I have an 08 grand cherokee with several issues that all turned up at one time. All my brake lights, ABS, BAS traction control are all on as soon as I reach like 20mph. That was first. I took it into the shop to replace a water pump, weld up some exhaust flanges and an oil change. Picked it up and the rear door ajar light is on. Didn't think much of it. Couple days later both my power seats quit working. No movement and no heated seats. Then I noticed the pedal adjust isn't working either. I tracked down a seat/heater circuit breaker that is extremely hot. This makes me think a short somewhere but I don't know where to begin looking. I have a test light and basic home voltmeter. Any suggestions as to where to start looking?
I Love this Channel!! Good Stuff. Thanks!
Hey i got a 5A battery parasitic drain on my 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8.
I don't see any blown fuses at all. I pulled fuse #8 and the 5A draw went down to 0.59A (spec says max is 0.05A) so I'm still 10x higher draw than normal with fuse 8 left out.
How do i test the wires with a multimeter, i don't have any back probes for multimeter.
Fuse 8 diagram online says it protects:
Overhead Console, Rear Wiper, ip lights (instrument panel where speedometer is), rear flipper glass solenoid(have no clue)
I looked inside overhead console and rear wiper and the giage cluster and checked its light bulbs for warning lights and around 7 bulbs are missing, i assume previous owner. Could these missing bulbs cause this Amp drain from battery?
My other question is if it's drawing power with vehicle off, and key off whats causing that? I don't think instrument panel lights or the overhead console is ever powered without key on?
Does that mean it has to be rear wiper or the rear flipper glass solenoid?
Is this safe to do always and wont fry something else? I have a blown 15A ECM fuse where thebwire goes to the ECM. Fuse blows anytime the door is opened (car wakesbup I guess). Just dont want to fry my ECM or other components using this method. But im having trouble finding where to search next!
I have a problem with a 2008 chevy tahoe Wolf power seats are not working also the Windows the fuse keep shorting out i can't find the issue on that you think you can help me finding out what you think might be the problem
In those years of the Grand Cherokees you have to remove the dash to replace the heater core. If the job was given to a low quality tech they usually ended up that way or worse with dash rattles that required the dash to be removed again. Check your work boys, if your customer has to check your work you won't have many customers left.
How to find an intermittent short like say in a sensor or a module?
Great Job, Brandon!
Where do you get the wire schematics ?
i'm sure he's using
all-data ..
that was awesome dude
If you don't have a light bulb, two wires out of the fuse, cut a potato in Half and peel it, stick wire on one half of the peeled potato and stick the other one on the other half of the potato, which ever half gets dark that's your hot side. My grandfather was an engineer in the USSR, red army WW2 1939. Jokes aside. Yes he had tools. He didn't carry vegetables along.😅
Great information and video.Thank You!
I have an issue with a 2011 Honda Ridgeline the electric seats do not work the heated electric seats do not work I wanted to see if you had a video
I had a wire burn out on a 1998 Lexus ls400 in the kick panel fuse box i have no power on car all the fuses are good under the hood and inside the fuse box in kick panel check starter and alternator it is good have no clue what is going on can you help me
Well done
Thank you!
Nice Diag!
Great Job. Hope You Charge Accordingly
Ooorah outstanding work
What dig do you prefer? Ladder or actual?
great vid i have a problem my right brake light and right turn signal don't work on my 2000 blazer and ideas would be great thanks