Same caliper as the early Aprilia AF1 (and Cagiva Freccia I think - later Freccia has the gold version). For the steel parts Bilt Hamber make a product to remove mild corrosion and old plating. A powder, which is mixed with hot water and then the items soak in it for a while. Works well. The brake disks are cast iron and will rust rapidly. I have wondered whether to try replating them and passivating in yellow again, but for brake parts hydrogen embrittlement worries me.
Yes, I have looked into that as well, it's the exact same process. I have actually ordered some nickel plates and will try it out. Could not find anyone selling pure nickel here locally, zinc was a bit easier to find. Seems like the finish is better when using nickel, not needed to polish the part after plating.
@@kihestad Old cooking pots are sometimes made of pure nickel,it's stamped on it. i scrapped one few years ago. Take a look at yard sales,and shops that sell old stuff.
I was kind of looking forward to the ultrasonic cleaning part. It's always very satisfying :( Still, another great video! I literally have to do all these things om my '87 bifaro as well.
The sound from the ultrasonic cleaner is just horrible 😝 and most of the magic happens under the lid, the process is not very camera friendly 😅 the result is always satisfying though
Socket hex and tap it's head for minute or two and it would've come lose very easily. One of the first things very old maintenance mechanic told me is that virtually any "black metal" fastener _will_ ease up if you just shock it for long enough. Tap the head and if possible from sides. Works remarkably well.
Aha, that is something I will try. I have sometimes given the bolt a tap when I have pressure on it, and sometimes that is just what is needed to get it to start going. I have never heard or tried the tapping method you suggest, will give it a try next time. Thanks a lot for the tips!!! 👍👍👍
@@kihestad It works quite nicely. My friend disassembled old really seized, but worn ball joint from his car that just turned on the hub. Can't recall what he worked, but it was must to get it off intact as he needed to move car few km's after the job. Mentioned this to him and he began to hammer (="firm tapping") sides of that nut from all sides and got it eventually out bit by bit. I've also used it successfully multiple times. Needs patience though. But as usual, bit of everything combined can eventually help. It's in same category as getting bearing out from blind hole. Pack it full with grease and insert cloth or paper very tightly into center hole and punch it in. Creates nice hydraulic effect bit by bit to drive bearing out. Stuff that is needed like once in 10 years, but when in need, might help gravely 🙂
Great vid. Keep them coming, I subscribed to see the whole series and am catching up on the older episodes... Fascinating motorcycle, the Elefant. Just a small correction; 49 cm2 is 4900 mm2, not 490 (1 cm2 = 10 by 10 mm2 = 100 mm2)
Great, happy to have you onboard 😊 You are totally correct, I noticed my miscalculation when I measured my first piece and tried to calculate the current 😬 that clever formula turned out to be not so clever 😓 Well done to notice it 👍 Planned to correct it in my upcoming video. I also found the current to be a bit too high even with the number of zeros adjustment. I have now corrected and improved my formula to be even simpler: surface area measured in mm2 / 10 = milliamps 😊
If you have all that stuff for zinc plating, is there any reason why you did not use electrolysis to remove the rust? It would only be one extra tub of liquid.
Maybe something got ‘lost in translation’ but you should NEVER put oil into or onto your braking system. Great video though. So many videos lately on zinc plating old parts, perhaps I need this zinc plating kit in my life! Thank you. Looking forward to part 2. Les
You're right, oiling the brakes to make them slippery is not a good advice 😝 I have bought a tube of brake caliper "grease" for assembly, it's some kind of heat resistant silicone lubrication.
i live in Bergen and im dealing with the same problem whit my byke, great to see that its posible to find those products on the local supplier, what could you could use for getting a black/chrome finish for others parts? tussen takk
Hi, funny you should ask 😊 I am trying to find a way to get a black finish as well. I have a lot of bolts that I wish to get black finish on the heads, but I have not found any easily available chemicals or smart methods so far. To get a chrome like result I will try nickel plating. It has a tiny hint of warmth to the color, but looks pretty nice. Could not find pure nickel plates locally either, ordered some on eBay.
Take a look at how this guy uses the same few (cheap!) products to clean, rust-proof, and coat his restored metal parts. ruclips.net/video/UEM2_5ybF4U/видео.html Rust removal: Hydrochloric Acid (24-35%) to completely remove rust from bolts and small parts without grinding. A LOT of Brunox Epoxy spray rust converter Prosol silicone remover. I've seen him use aceton as well (@ &t=616) or @ &t=616)* Metal Protection/Primer: 2 layers of Brantho Korrux "nitrofest" Rust preventer (Not sure what goes in-between the two layers) they come in black and other colors as well. @ &t=677 @ &t=1862 It's a a really incredible two hour video in its own right with lots of great tips. Like using a can of camping gas with a torch adapter to heat-up and loosen bolts @ &t=435 Cheers * just add the timestamps to the video URL
@@kihestadI watched a video from Edd china (wheelers dealers) using great method to remove rust (evaporust) and as usual 😢 I can’t find it in Norway, also there is a few “easy” methods but included some chemicals and I don’t even know if they are legal on Norway or what are the Norwegian names.
Same caliper as the early Aprilia AF1 (and Cagiva Freccia I think - later Freccia has the gold version).
For the steel parts Bilt Hamber make a product to remove mild corrosion and old plating. A powder, which is mixed with hot water and then the items soak in it for a while. Works well.
The brake disks are cast iron and will rust rapidly. I have wondered whether to try replating them and passivating in yellow again, but for brake parts hydrogen embrittlement worries me.
Cool, received the disc and brake pads today 😊
Nickel plating is just as easy, and shiny. Geoff Croker has a great guide to home plating on here.
Yes, I have looked into that as well, it's the exact same process. I have actually ordered some nickel plates and will try it out. Could not find anyone selling pure nickel here locally, zinc was a bit easier to find. Seems like the finish is better when using nickel, not needed to polish the part after plating.
@@kihestad Old cooking pots are sometimes made of pure nickel,it's stamped on it.
i scrapped one few years ago.
Take a look at yard sales,and shops that sell old stuff.
@@michaelovitch hey, thats a good idea! 💡👍
I was kind of looking forward to the ultrasonic cleaning part. It's always very satisfying :(
Still, another great video! I literally have to do all these things om my '87 bifaro as well.
The sound from the ultrasonic cleaner is just horrible 😝 and most of the magic happens under the lid, the process is not very camera friendly 😅 the result is always satisfying though
A video so quick! Nice, that gets an instead like 😊
I just have to keep it going now for a while, to get the bike fixed in time 😬
Socket hex and tap it's head for minute or two and it would've come lose very easily. One of the first things very old maintenance mechanic told me is that virtually any "black metal" fastener _will_ ease up if you just shock it for long enough. Tap the head and if possible from sides. Works remarkably well.
Aha, that is something I will try. I have sometimes given the bolt a tap when I have pressure on it, and sometimes that is just what is needed to get it to start going. I have never heard or tried the tapping method you suggest, will give it a try next time. Thanks a lot for the tips!!! 👍👍👍
@@kihestad It works quite nicely. My friend disassembled old really seized, but worn ball joint from his car that just turned on the hub. Can't recall what he worked, but it was must to get it off intact as he needed to move car few km's after the job. Mentioned this to him and he began to hammer (="firm tapping") sides of that nut from all sides and got it eventually out bit by bit. I've also used it successfully multiple times. Needs patience though. But as usual, bit of everything combined can eventually help. It's in same category as getting bearing out from blind hole. Pack it full with grease and insert cloth or paper very tightly into center hole and punch it in. Creates nice hydraulic effect bit by bit to drive bearing out. Stuff that is needed like once in 10 years, but when in need, might help gravely 🙂
Tips like this are just extremely valuable 👍👍👍👍
Another good viseo Ki. Nice clear presentation too. Looking forwards to the next one.
Glad you enjoyed it, I am on it already 😎
Thanks for sharing, looking forward to the next one 👍
I am already on it, half way with the zinc plating now 😊
Excellet as always 😀
Takk-takk 😊
Very interesting!
I love your videos,thank you👍
Glad to hear that 😊
Great vid. Keep them coming, I subscribed to see the whole series and am catching up on the older episodes... Fascinating motorcycle, the Elefant.
Just a small correction; 49 cm2 is 4900 mm2, not 490 (1 cm2 = 10 by 10 mm2 = 100 mm2)
Great, happy to have you onboard 😊 You are totally correct, I noticed my miscalculation when I measured my first piece and tried to calculate the current 😬 that clever formula turned out to be not so clever 😓 Well done to notice it 👍 Planned to correct it in my upcoming video. I also found the current to be a bit too high even with the number of zeros adjustment. I have now corrected and improved my formula to be even simpler: surface area measured in mm2 / 10 = milliamps 😊
You can also take the weight of the Zinc as you progress.
If you have all that stuff for zinc plating, is there any reason why you did not use electrolysis to remove the rust? It would only be one extra tub of liquid.
That is a good idea, I have just not thought about it 🤔
Maybe something got ‘lost in translation’ but you should NEVER put oil into or onto your braking system. Great video though. So many videos lately on zinc plating old parts, perhaps I need this zinc plating kit in my life! Thank you. Looking forward to part 2. Les
You're right, oiling the brakes to make them slippery is not a good advice 😝 I have bought a tube of brake caliper "grease" for assembly, it's some kind of heat resistant silicone lubrication.
i live in Bergen and im dealing with the same problem whit my byke, great to see that its posible to find those products on the local supplier, what could you could use for getting a black/chrome finish for others parts? tussen takk
Hi, funny you should ask 😊 I am trying to find a way to get a black finish as well. I have a lot of bolts that I wish to get black finish on the heads, but I have not found any easily available chemicals or smart methods so far. To get a chrome like result I will try nickel plating. It has a tiny hint of warmth to the color, but looks pretty nice. Could not find pure nickel plates locally either, ordered some on eBay.
Take a look at how this guy uses the same few (cheap!) products to clean, rust-proof, and coat his restored metal parts. ruclips.net/video/UEM2_5ybF4U/видео.html
Rust removal:
Hydrochloric Acid (24-35%) to completely remove rust from bolts and small parts without grinding.
A LOT of Brunox Epoxy spray rust converter
Prosol silicone remover. I've seen him use aceton as well (@ &t=616) or @ &t=616)*
Metal Protection/Primer:
2 layers of Brantho Korrux "nitrofest" Rust preventer (Not sure what goes in-between the two layers) they come in black and other colors as well.
@ &t=677
@ &t=1862
It's a a really incredible two hour video in its own right with lots of great tips. Like using a can of camping gas with a torch adapter to heat-up and loosen bolts @ &t=435
Cheers
* just add the timestamps to the video URL
@@theyshouldhavenevergivenme5439 you just only advertising, not good men. we are talking about something completely different
@@kihestadI watched a video from Edd china (wheelers dealers) using great method to remove rust (evaporust) and as usual 😢 I can’t find it in Norway, also there is a few “easy” methods but included some chemicals and I don’t even know if they are legal on Norway or what are the Norwegian names.
Hei, interessant video! Men vær obs på at 49 cm2 = 4900 mm2.
Takker, og yes - en liten regnefeil der 😝🥴 skal kommenteres i neste video, bra observert 👍