Building Motorcycle Dashboard with AI - Fixing the Elefant - Episode #14
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- I need to build a new instrument cluster on my adventure motorcycle. The original instruments are not working, and I want a modern tablet style solution for getting navigation and all the latest modern stuff on my old Cagiva 750 Elefant from 1990.
This video is part of a video series where I am trying to get my Cagiva 750 Elefant fixed in quite a hurry! I have promised to go on a roadtrip together with my friend @tshansen - can I get my bike ready in time?
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#cagiva #adventure #motorcycle #hugerock
Music from RUclips Audio Library:
Minor Lament for Solo Bass - John Patitucci
Music from #Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
Poppin' Boxes by Pecan Pie
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License code: TTI2UCVPWVEOTLRG
Casually says "I also printed..." without mentioning anything of the hours of CAD work behind that - kudos Herr Hestad!!
You’re right, the 3D modelling takes some time. Starting to get hang of Autodesk Fusion 360, but yes - it’s time consuming 😏
@@kihestad Looks like you're more than "starting"..!!! 😆
Love the dash, proper restomod!!! Looking forward to the next chapter!
Thanks 🙏
Hahaha.... don't do a wheelie... trust me, I've tried 😂 Another incredible video mr.Hestad 👏🏻 the lever of details, how good you explain everything and yeah... I just feel like I had a class back in school but actually learned something. Well done my friend 👏🏻🎥
I don't even know how to do a wheelie, so I'll talk to my AI and ask him to get a grip 😂
Over the past ~27 years of working on motorcycles, I've come to enjoy the challenge of Electrical faults (something very few people do well). Here in the US, Wago connectors are pretty new, so I've never seen them used on a vehicle... but I've seen "wire nuts" used to catastrophic fire results, and even soldered connections seem overly prone to breaking and causing issue. The most robust, but still not infallible, solution is a proper Crimp connection ~ they're just the best method for the average person to apply well. From a pure theory point, it's the vibration that does the damage of loosening wire nuts and flexing stranded wires at connection points so if you're going to move forward with the Wagos, please cable-tie the wires to a FIXED member within a few inches of the connector to limit movement where the wire enters the connector. Heck, maybe a TPU cable-relief of a few inches would also do the trick... And should you have to do troubleshooting on the side of the road, hopefully you'll remember this comment and look to the Wago (and other added) connectors as a first point of failure.
@@ShootingAir Thanks a lot for sharing your experience and providing tips! I always listen more carefully to those with actual experience compared to those basing their claims on theory only.
WAGO connectors are German, and they are primarily made for and used in electrical installations in houses. I am pretty sure you are right when you say crimped connections are the safest choice. I'll pay close attention to them, probably add zip ties as you suggest to make sure it's not constant "stress" on them, and I will let you know how it goes!
Those WAGO connectors are not waterproof, he should have used WAGO Gelbox. The best method is to use the Crimp connection (with waterproof/shrink connectors).
Excellent ending! 😆👍
Haha 😂 AI can be both very helpful and totally useless 😝
The Wago connectors are fantastic for environments which are dry and have no vibration. They don’t provide any water protection and they can sometimes fatigue the strands of the wires.
I had to rewire an overland Land Rover where some of the connections were made with wagos
I use them to test the circuits then crimp and heat shrink or solder and heat shrink afterwards.
Amazing job though looks fantastic
Thanks for the insight! 👍 Others has told a similar story, so I'll pay close attention to them. I have thought about sealing them with silicon grease to make them more water resistant, and zip tie the cables so there is no strain on them. It's probably a safer solution to crimp them. Soldering can work well if there is no movement nearby, I have seen many solder joints snapping off because of repeated bending close by.
Another enjoyable video Ki. Clear explanations and good imagery. Some unusual camera positions too; loved your reflection in the wing mirror!
This bike is coming along very nicely.
Cool that you noticed my effort in creative video recording 😊 some few camera angles are just for fun and variations, and some of them happen just randomly 😁
How done you explain to your wife about all the hours you put into upgrading your bike I’ve had many a meal thrown in the bin over the years of restoring motorbikes great Chanel well done
@@Albie-f5k haha 😂 It can be a challenge for sure to balance time spent on work, family and own hobbies - never enough time 😔
Very cool. Love the holders for the wago - thingies. I have been using those connectors a lot and they are great.
Great video!
Thanks Jerome 😊 The flexible 3D print is very cool and super strong 💪
G'day from Darwin, Australia. I very much enjoy your channel and appreciate your attention to the detail of what you are doing. I would like to see a video on your 3D printer and what goes into making the different parts. I have very limited knowledge of how all this works and what it costs.
Hi 😊 funny you should ask about that, I have actually planned for my next video to briefly show and tell a about the 3D printing fabrication process. Now that you ask about it, I might even show a bit more in detail the whole process how I do it.
@@kihestad Thanks that would be very much appreciated.
The new connectors look like Superseal connectors. They are good . I used one on my Bimota to replace the connector under the bodywork for the tail light to replace the standard awful connector.
Stock connectors are Molex 0.093” ones. They were quite common. RS stock them.
Not sure I would use Wago connectors for final use (I would happily use them when prototyping the system). I tend to use the U shape crimps (which you can find inside many original looks)
The Freccia has a similar bracket to hold the connector blocks. It is brilliant.
Looks good!
Thanks for all the tips 🙏 I'll pay attention to the WAGO's. I'll just keep them if they can cope with vibrations and moisture, but it's quite an easy job to replace them with a permanent joint as you suggested
be careful about the heat. will do melt your 3d print part. print with more heat resistant filament.
I don't think it's gonna be very hot in the dashboard area. Bit you are right: 3D print has its limitation when it comes to strength and durability. I normally use PETG, but for these parts I want a better finish and plan to sand and paint the parts. I'll test using PLA for now 🤞 if it deforms due to vibrations and heat/sun I'll have to test more expensive filament 😊
I had a black PLA part on my motorcycle warp just being parked out in the sun, so definitely look into different materials
(I really hate doing the wiring😠 🤣 ) you demonstrate good tips, keep the videos coming 👍
Thanks 😊 I think most people hate doing the wiring. Not sure why it's like this. At least on older bikes it's not that complicated, although troubleshooting can take some time
Looking forward to seeing how you implement the final dashboard. I hope you get to enjoy the elefant before "the summer" ends. :D
Crossing fingers here, there is still time 🤞
Really nice video. Appreciate the details, i'd suggest having a look at the wago gelbox to waterproof the connectors and still retain the flexibility. (Currently 3d printing a custom dashmount for my gasgas 700 rally build, also using fusion360 ;) but with a T865 tab :) will be very fun to follow this exquisite build 😁
Thanks for the tip! 🙏 I had thought about applying silicon grease, I did not know WAGO had its own product. Sounds like we have very similar projects 😊 the gasgas 700 is very cool, and by the way: gasgas is just the best name for a motorcycle brand - ever - end of discussion 😁
@@kihestad 😆👏👏👏 cheers mate!
You continue to do amazing work on this project! Well done with the ending 😂.
Thanks 🙏 Quite nice to finally get a reply when talking to my Elefant 😅
@@kihestad😂
I would recomend you to put som vaseline grease or silicone grease inside the Wago:s to keep the moisture out of them. Just to make them better for automotive use.
That sounds like a great tip 🙏 I do have a tube of silicon grease. I remember the cable connectors for the outdoor cables for my electric lawnmower charging station had grease built into the connectors. I checked them after three years (laying in the ground, constantly wet soil) and they were good as new 👍
Du får det til du. Artig å følge deg. Hilsen en custombygger på østlandet.
Hey, kjekt å høre, takker så meget 😊 Hvilket prosjekt holder du på med?
@@kihestad flere. GSX 1100. Men det går smått. Og jeg kjører DragRace så stadig litt mod der også. Ta en kikk på kanalen min om du vil. Driver med det meste av mc. Alt fra H-D til Japan. Men ingen stor youtuber enda.
I think the wago 221 clamps are rated for 20A of current. In a 12V system its pretty easy to get high current.
Just a heads up so you dont melt the wago.
20amps should be plenty, the fuses I use are 10 and 15. The heated jacket is what pulls most current, it's 3.5amp. Using one Wago for all current on the bike might be a stretch. I use several of them, but the one under the seat is probably the one that transfers most current. Do you know how much the bigger one for 6m2 cable is rated for? 🤔
The bigger one fore 6mm2 is rated for 30 or 41 A it depend on what classification system.
I guess the starter draws the most current and that is for a real short time.
This rating is for continues use i think.
Nothing to really worry about.
@@Intesanoga Thanks 🙏 I know the starter can pull more than 100watts, perhaps even 200w. I'll not use WAGO on that cable, it's btw a 10m2 cable 😊 30-40 amps sounds very safe, I actually use a 6m2 cable from battery to the "main" WAGO under the seat. The one I used is for 4m2 so I had to slim down the end of the cable to make it fit 😊
I'm very impressed with your 3d printed items - they look like OE equipment. I wonder, could you include a raised CAGIVA logo on the ignition support for that proper factory look? 🤔 8:44 Those Superseal connectors are very neat, and you'll find them all over modern Ducatis. You do need the proper ratchet crimper when assembling them, of course.
That is a good idea 😊 I have actually thought about adding some kind of pattern on the final print so it's not looking too 'home made'.
@kihestad Don't worry! They already look as good as, if not better, than a lot of standard fitments!
The old dashboard connectors, without seeing them in detail, appear to be "Universal MATE-N-LOK" made by AMP back then, and Tyco electronics now.
Aha, thanks for the tips 🙏 I have searched high and low to find similar ones but gave up, will take a look!
Pay a lot of attention on those wires and cables and how they rub when you turn the steering. Even a small change can give you a sticky throttle or cabling that wears through and short circuits while on road.
Yes, I am testing it a lot. I have had, and still have, several old motorcycles where cables are broken in this area because the movement back and forth when turning the handlebar. Luckily there is a lot of space on this bike because it's a rather big and plenty of room in the front fairing. This is an even bigger problem when building a naked bike, like a cafe racer 😬
I designed a AMPS adapter for the Arca-Swiss mounts, which is the perfect sollution for mounting the Hugerock nice and flush to your dash!
Had to Google what an AMPS adapter is 😆 That is exactly what I need 👍 Thanks for the tips!
@@kihestad if you need one, I'd gladly send you one for free!
Thanks for the offer! What is it made of? The tablet is quite heavy, and it needs to hold it even in rough terrain 😬
@@kihestad it is made of PETG, really durable and works like a charm
Okay, got it. I would not dare to use a 3D printed mount for this, even with PETG. It has to be a metal mount. The Hugerock rugged tablet is really heavy, and even though I am not an Enduro rider, I expect to ride on quite rough terrain from time to time.
That operation room level clean Garage looks almost AI generated..or is it flight attendant/ electrical engineer level tidy?
I would otherwise contribute this to Scandinavia but Norwegian " two stroke stuffing" YT channel and his garage contradicts this ! Beware of nervous breakdown after going off road and all gets really dirty!😂Excellent work though and thank you for sharing.
Hehe, it’s just how I like it. I have found it more enjoyable and more efficient working in a tidy and structured workspace. It also reduces accidents and time spent on searching for things that’s somewhere around… 😁 It also gives me some level of “premium feeling” or what to say, and makes it feel that the work I am doing is more valuable. This again leads to me doing the job more carefully and the result gets better. Perhaps I’m just fooling myself, but it seems to work 😝
@@kihestad I agree fully and I would think that all viewers are happy for a role model garage and work ethic to aspire to.😊 Thank you also for using genuine German made WAGO products, I also am a big fan of these.
@@dipling.pitzler7650 WAGO is the best!!! I tried once a knock off product, it was just clumsy and wiggly, never again 😝
@@kihestad 👍💯
Wow, those wago holders are great. Any change you will share the file so i can have a friend print some for my build?😊
@@antonnielsen1225 I can absolutely share the files! Will the way I have designed them work for your build? One is to be bolted on with a M6 bolt, the other hangs on a 14mm pipe.
So germanly efficient :) Wow! Are all German mechanics so finicky? Great job!
Haha 😅 I am not German though, but being mistaken for one is an honor 🙏
@@kihestad Soz! :)
I think it is a shame you took out the old dash. So here is my crazy idea (since it seems that you did not finish it already): Take the old tachometer and speedometer apart, remove the clocks and put the new lights and indicator in the old housing. You preserve the classic look of the bike and you don't have to butcher the dash. ;;) . I also don't think you need the GPS unit inside the cockpit cover. It can go lower on the center of the handle bar itself where there it becomes a lot more stable and convenient to operate/take out. It is waterproof right?
Yea, It would have been nice to keep the retro look 😔 I did actually temporary mount a tablet as you describe, but it was not very good. I could not see it because of the helmet without nodding my head. Now it will be a bit higher than the original, and it's so much better to see the tablet screen (= map and road direction) by just looking a tiny bit downward.
looking good. as always super content! not sure if your Cagiva comes with a main and side stand, as you are using a paddock stand...if you had to choose to keep a side or main stand, out of curiosity what you choose? Also...big up tick in views this video...wonder why?
Thanks 😊 Not sure why RUclips suddenly started to promote my videos more, both my last two videos have got a lot more views compared to what I am used to, perhaps because I now have made 100 videos and recently got 10k subs 🤔 It's very fun and very motivating for sure 😁 Adventure bikes dos normally not have a center stand because of ground clearance, weight and danger of it come loose when driving off road. It's practical to use the canter stand, but I can manage without. I definitely think bikes look best without, although some really big bikes manage to hide it completely, and then it's OK 😊
Have you ever tried using lidar on your phone to scan/clone a part and use that as the basis for your 3D printed model?
I don’t really know anything about 3D printing/modeling but in theory it seems like it could help skip a couple iterations on the 3D printer.
I have not, the reason is probably because I don't have an iPhone 😌 I have thought about getting a 3D scanner, and I have the possibility to borrow one as well. You're right about it could save me some time 🤔
@@kihestad I’ve been thinking of upgrading my 1999 Honda Valkyrie’s full fairing dashboard. And scanning the plastic bits seemed like the easiest way of getting a base that would look most factory like. But that’s only a hunch. Have you tried the 3D scanner, is it useful?
The old key's keychain bring me back like 25 years. My grandma had the same one (foam bike) for the house keys. She didn't even know how to ride bicycle, let alone the motorcycle. Do you know where it comes from?
Everything looks great.
My two worries would be: how wagos handle vibrations and exposure to water and dirt as they are made to be kept in electrical boxes.
I think the TPU dampers for relays might be too flexible. Well atleast it doesn't take to much effort to print new ones incase I'm right.
@@Sloykas hehe, sorry but I have no idea where the "original" keychain comes from. It was there when I bought the bike 😅
I know others have successfully used WAGO's on motorcycles, this is my first. I'll pay attention to them!
The rubber mount for the original turn signal relay on the bike is even softer than the ones I made. My first attempt was too firm and I had to make it 'weaker' to get them more flexible. It's very easy to change how compact the thickness and infill of the 3D printed part. 100% infill and it's hard as tire rubber, 5% infill and it's soft as a sponge. Regardless, it's extremely strong, no chance of ripping it apart by hand even if the print is just 1mm thickness 💪
Where's the wheelie or burnout? 😂
@@juststeve5542 haha, my AI is fired! I can't do any of it 😝
Those WAGO connectors are not waterproof, he should have used WAGO Gelbox.
Yes, I have just recently heard about them. It a very good tips! 👍 They are not very exposed to water though, the original ones are not waterproof either. I might put on thick silicone grease or 3D print a protective cap though
@@kihestad mmm...water finds a way, always. That's why vehicle connectors are so expensive.
didnt expect to see AI generated content on this channel, but I guess it was cool hahahahaha just kidding
@@DanelonNicolas AI infiltrate everything 😬😝😅
Great video as always!
Are you familiar with the DR650 for instance? Cheers
Thanks, I am very well aware of the DR650. It's a legendary bike 🤩 I have never owned one or tried one though. I had a Suzuki ER50 when I was younger, that's the only Suzuki I have owned
Awesome great small bike! Yeah I thought you maybe have owned one and could help me with an issue…😁 because I literally have now lights in the back…
P.S I am very bad at electrical stuff🥲
@@iDrxn It's not as difficult as you think 😊 Don't say you're bad at it. Everyone is bad at everything at first. You can fix it if you want, it's much more fun than you think and not as difficult as you believe 👍
@@kihestadI know, but I have tried so many thinks (I believe)…but sure restoring a bike the first time isn’t that easy as aspected😁 especially when the person before completely ruined the wire loom…
But thanks for your positivity! Hopefully I can ride this summer!
Just be patient, download and print the wiring diagram, check one light at the time and one cable at the time. Remember, the main tail light has just two cables, plus and minus (ground). Fokus on only these first, don't try to fix everything at once.
where is the Honda? have you sold it? It used to be in the corner of your garage I think.
@@jontefels It's currently in my shed. I wanted to fix my adventure bike this summer. I'll continue the project in a couple of months (I hope 🤞😬)
It would have been nice to have kept the original connectors on the wire harnass side and cut off the ones from the instrument panel to make wire modifications, and plug them back together .. 🤔
Totally agree, I did try to find these types of connector so I could keep the original and just retrofit the new solution using the same type of connectors as original. I gave up after a while, did not manage to find any 🙁 I am keeping the ones I cut off, if I want to redo back to original, I can re-pin them and put them back on, the cables will just be 1cm shorter.
thanks for your reply! Yes, given that the instrument panel itself is broken (but could be swapped from a donor), the cables cut from it would have allowed extra length/flexibility attaching new plugs/etc. In my experience, wires always end up 1 cm too short.. 😅
@@swenbos7760 haha, that's true 😂
22:30 ahh but do you have enough power from the stator (generator)?
That is a very good question 😬 I did charge a tablet (not the Hugerock X70 though) and used my heated jacket on the trip I did earlier this summer, the voltmeter still displayed around 13V. I might switch to LED highlight bulb to save som watts there. Time will show 🤞
@@kihestad Yeah I know the older Ducs had pretty poor stator outputs but if you have a voltmeter on your new dash then you can monitor and take care of that 👍🏼😎
@@Farlig69 yes, I will integrate a voltmeter as well in the new dash. Best to keep an eye on it
@@kihestadyou can possibly save a bit of electrical power using LED indicator and tail light bulbs