This is the best, I love it when you guys put your humor into the videos! Also, shop rule #1 on the board is just a great life tip in general and people should be aware of it.
I started using Osmo about 6 months ago & absolutely love it!! Plus, it IS food safe!! the smell goes away & the truth is it does such a good job I never even noticed it. I usually start with the thin & then use the Poly-x for the final coat!! Anyone worrying about how long it takes to put a finish on doesn't really care about the finish!! Results are all I care about.
Anyone worrying about how long it takes to put on a finish is doing it professionally to make money and time spent means either charging more money or making less money. Time is a real consideration for professionals.
Exactly. It’s lacquer or go home for me. Granted I’m very experienced with lacquer, altering sheens, etc… but given the dry time and protection it offers, none of these oils touch it.
... or there are other constraints, like finishing a floor where vacating an entire house for days on end isn't practical or possible. Or where there is a lack of space for finishing a large quantity of materials and they need to dry and get off the rack to make room for more...
Beautifully explained. I have used all of the finishes you demonstrated. I use Odie's exclusively. I use a car buffer to apply and buff it with beautiful results. It's quick too. My shop always smells great.
Really!? A car buffer.. that’s crazy. I thought they didn’t encourage application with a buffer because of the heat. I’ve been doing it by hand and now I don’t have to go to the gym anymore
@@WilliamDouglasCo Seriously! A car buffer. I got tired of looking like Popeye too. I use a 6" Ryobi buffer with micro pads. It works great. I usually do it 3 times 20-30 minutes apart (which only takes a few minutes). Then buff it off by hand in most cases unless it's a big tabletop. I found that the heat from the orbital buffing speeds the absorption. The results are always fabulous. I wait 2 days and use Odie's Wood Butter and use the buffer too. Done!
Big fan of these hard wax oils. I lean towards osmo polyx for most furniture due to being able to get a bit more sheen than either Rubio or Odies. Never noticed a smell issue with Osmo either. I do wear gloves when applying. No gloves required and the great smell with Odies keeps me coming back to it for certain projects though.
O.K....!!!... someone owes me for the time it's taking me cleaning up the coffee I blew out my nose when he said..."Ah...gasoline would be a great option for that..."...LMAO...This is now one of my favorite channels though outside the scope of woodworking I do...I still love it here!!! As for the recommended finishes...Well...Er...Uh...???...NO...!!!...Sorry...you lost me on this one too...BIG TIME!!! Simply put, the reason "antiques" have the unmatched patinas they developed (a big part of their value!!!) is the means, methods, and material applications of their finishes...and those are all-natural and traditional in context...Thus, one either makes their own NATURAL finishes from raw materials...or...gets them blended by someone that knows what traditional finishes are... For professional to hobbyists that haven't "gotten there" yet on this skill set...go with old recipes and experiments or a place like "Heritage Finishes." Worked with these folks for over 30 years for big projects and usually purchase stock in 50-gallon barrels to blend exactly what is needed... Core "work-horse" materials...beeswax...pine rosin (or one of the Middle Easter/Asin plant rosin)...flax oil...walnut oil...tung oil...citrus oil as a cutter/carrier. These form the foundation for some of the best and oldest finishes in the world still today and are found on pieces over 2000 years old!
The only one I was familiar with was the OSMO, which I picked up to refinish two small stool tops that are natural pine. Sanded the tops and sides down, applied two coats and got a clear natural pine finish minus the wet look of varnish or polyurethane. Like the flat finish over a gloss or semi gloss as well. Still looking perfect after 3-4 years. Not sure if you two favs are available in Canada but will keep an eye out. Enjoyed this vid (as well as others on your channel). I like the no stain approach to finishing as well as colourless finish products. Really enjoying your channel. Thank you for doing it. Rob
I have refinished my outdoor furniture with outdoor teak refinnishing oil;big fail, spar varnish; fail. I did 22 pieces at same time, they both failed in 1 year. Won't ever use again, waste of time and money. I next tried odies oil after sanding the finishes off completely and so far, it works. The finishes look great after 1 year. No peeling like the spar varnish, the color of the wood looks great. It's a lot more work, but is worth the effort. I am planning to refinish my whole very large deck with it next.....will see results in a year. I used it because it has been successful on my 6×6 ft island top which was unfinished raw butcherblock. It has done well for 2 years. Water and food spills, including oily foods, have not harmed it.
Ok, I've now watched a few of your videos and can't believe I didn't subscribe until now. I love the "no bull" attitude and tone of your content- keep it coming!
As someone who owns a finish shop and done full houses in rubio I would say you definitely need to wear a mask with it. The catalyzer is what is killing brain cells. I get worse headaches with that stuff than I do conversion varnish. You should try emmet’s good stuff
Like you, I spent resources on a can of each of the market leaders....did a bit of 'research' and bought a lab hotplate on Amazon for $50. Spent another $100 on a couple pounds of hard wax, pine resin and a quart of Limonene solvent. Had a can of Linseed oil. I've now got the makings for all the hard wax oil I'm going to need for a good long while. The sheen is adjustable by how much pine resin one uses. I also got some Japan Dryer and a small bottle of Cobalt....but have not found any info yet on just how to use them to hasten the curing time. I'm not doing work for clients, so cure time between coats is no problem. -Veteran '66-68
Just found your video. Both fun and informative - so I subscribed! Thanks! I'm retired but still spend a lot of time in my shop. I really dislike stains -- I like to let the wood speak for itself. So I've been using Odie's, and have liked the results. I haven't tried Odie's Dark yet, but will order that soon. I actually use a fair amount of elm and honeylocust, and I would like something that won't show yellow so much with age. Don't know yet how the dark will work, but trying is how I find out. Thanks again!
That definitely had me rolling, although I like working with resin so far although I don’t consider myself a true wood worker yet. Overall very helpful video as I work with a good deal of both blk walnut and ash, and have stuck with Osmo since discovering it after beginning with poly ( which I don’t think I’ll ever go back) but will definitely check out The others now. Especially for the ash
Glad you had so much fun putting this together. Too bad there is no performance review besides what the finisher likes applying. So how do they perform with wear and tear? Abrasion, water, alcohol were not even mentioned. So I can only assume the resistance to wear and tear is simply unmentionable due to poor performance. Food safe? I never mix my food with a finish and I never eat off of furniture without a plate or bowl, but I do see the damage done to furniture by spills and use.
Several questions and input for you: I only use Rubio on straight grain Doug fir interior trim outs. Absolutely love the stuff. No stink. No color change to the wood. Easy setup and clean up. And no sander’s fatigue. (Insert sparkle smile here). However, I have a super large (5x9) dining table build coming up and have been worrying about finish durability and life, 1) What has your experience been on finish life? 2) Next. A tip for you. I just bought a used 13” 4 head random orbital sander made by Surcar. Their core market are solid surface counter top fabricators. It makes short work out of big surface area sanding with high surface quality. And gives a dead flat surface as an added bonus. And has superior dust control. New they are several thousand bucks. Well worth the ROI. They are built rock solid. Mine is 15 years old and all it needed was new pads. 3) also am curious about your shop location and neighbor “relationship management”. It looks like your shop is in a house in a neighborhood. You use big loud tools daily. Do you get complaints? If so, how do you deal with it. 4) Anyway, love your channel, totally impressed with your mad design skills and build quality. Finally, major kudos to the thoughtful approach you take to managing the totally loaded cost impacts on profits. You rock.
Hey Jack, thanks for dropping us a line. As for finish durability.. I am happy with what I get out of any of these hard wax oils. They don’t last forever but they are easy to touch up, refinish, and spot repair. 90% of our furniture is solid wood so it’s kind of refreshing to revisit and re-finish a piece one afternoon after 5 years or so. I’ve never heard of it used that kind of sander although I am pretty intrigued. I think at that price point.. as a woodworker you would be better off with a fixed head drum sander. As for the shop location.. watch my latest video!! I talk about that in depth and I’m excited for you to see it. Thanks again!
@@WilliamDouglasCo thanks for getting back. Glad to find out you personally read and respond to comments. I am seriously considering joining your Patreon crew. Are the Magnums found on the “tool” list used as appreciation gifts for new members?
OSMO is food safe. Although not tested for U.S. standards when it was imported from Germany, it meets European and German standards: "When dry, finish is safe for humans, animals and plants and is suitable for children‘s toys as per EN 71.3 (European norm) and is saliva-resistant and sweatproof according to DIN 53160 (German industrial norm)."
The ONLY finish I’ll use is non- toxic! Thank for the comparisons. Which would you recommend if you want a matte finish, you don’t to darken the wood too much, but you want protection from heat and water for a dining table?
Rubio monocoat is a 2 part system. It has a hardener or “accelerator” that you add to speed up the curing process. It is truly 1 coat hence the name “Monocoat”. However.. if you didn’t sand well, you may find yourself benefitting from a second coat
He's alive! I'm a big fan of Danish oil, use tons of it, but I have to admit I've always felt some guilt on account of all the poor Danish souls that were pressed to make it.
@@WilliamDouglasCo It's actually a blend of oil with some amount of varnish in it. My other go to, especially for food safe, is pure Tung oil thinned with citrus solvent.
I love Rubio and Osmo for different things. I do hate mixing the rubio because theres always waist and thats money down the drain. A 2nd coat is usually needed for a great finish on more porous woods. I love that it has a hardener though... The smell of Osmo really isnt that bad. No waist, but maintenance is recommended sooner. Easier to reapply and sand to a mirror finish. Osmo does have more product lines for many different purposes. Good to know about the Odies.... Thanks for the info.
Where can I buy the soap finish? Depending on the wood/grain, Osmo and Rubio both make finished with lighteners in them that do an ok job of preserving light wood color. It's technically stain, but since all finishes amber wood, I don't really see the difference between a stain and a finish. I guess that's a different approach than trying to pass off poplar as cocobolo though...
In one comment below you “Hearted” a comment about using ArmRSeal, but I think you dont use any polyurethane - is ArmRSeal an exception? I’m just starting to make some furniture, several side tables, and my Manager-in-Chief says they need to be coffee cup safe. For these small tables would you still recommend Odies? Great videos!
I don’t know what armRSeal is amd have never used it. I’ve used Rubio monocoat for several coffee shop pieces I’ve made In past. No issues. I’m still kind of new to odies but have been using it a lot more. Haven’t had any issues like a lot of other people describe.. so far
I had the streaking issue with odies a couple weeks after finishing but I have found that as long as I wipe all of it off I dont have any issue, I keep hearing people say it ain’t good but I keep going back and checking projects and it seems great as long as I made sure to wipe with a clean towel till no residue appears on the towel
OSMO is food safe, it's also child's toy safe once cured. I love this video. Very informative and the fact that you tested the most popular oil finishes is really the ticket.
newer woodworker here... building a red-oak dining table. What would you finish it with? I was thinking Tried&True varnish oil, but I like a lighter wood look (the wife does too). Thanks for the video... love the sarcasm :)
I’ve honestly never tried soap finish on cherry. The lighter cherry would probably look great with soap. The darker and more rich cherry would probably look better with a hard wax oil
Nice you have made the choice to go no-stain and not try to make poplar look like cherry, honesty in wood appearance. Also takes a lot of the guesswork out of finishing things. My experience with Rubio and Osmo happens to involve attempts to recoat an old, formerly dark stained oak table with a light color from both manufacturers. Applying both Rubio and Osmo light colors, seemed to be a futile attempt. Of the four different light color samples tried, little difference was noticed once the excess was removed. Maybe I'll just go natural, pure, raw, or clear, which as you know are the no stain options for these two product lines. A stain is still a stain by any other name?
Awesome video. Loved the humour. So umm... what is the only finish you use exactly? 😜😂 Ok serious question: I’m a cabinet maker about to build a kitchen for my brother out of real zebra wood. (Solid wood trim and doors, veneer core plywood boxes). Am I crazy to use a hard wax oil like one of these on the kitchen? I’m not sold on traditional lacquers or varnishes for this job. Cost isn’t my biggest concern. Quality finish is top priority. I’ve worked with osmo polyx finish before on coffee tables and have some Rubio monocoat to try but haven’t used it myself yet. I’m leaning towards the osmo. The formula I have is not smelly and listed as food safe once fully dry. So far I’m very happy with it. I just don’t know how easy it would work into/wipe dry the corners, and if I’m crazy to try finishing an entire kitchen with a hardwax oil like this. If you have any thoughts for this application I would appreciate it. Thanks!
WD - I'd like to request a t-shirt with the Build logo on front and your shop rules on the back! I've got the original Build shirt, but this sir, would be an instant classic. Nice job on the video too! Like you, I'm partial to rubio because of the smell as well!
@@WilliamDouglasCo It's good, hunt it out. I use it a lot. Also, I'm pretty sure the PolyX Oil is food safe as well. Been a while since I checked the MSDS data sheet, but seem to recall that it's not toxic. Oh, hate river tables. Were interesting for maybe five minutes, then everyone was doing them.
I'm doing my first woodworking project a computer desk top which is solid maple board trimmed in purple heart. I'm considering using rubio monocoat however I'm concerned about preserving the look/ colour of purple heart for as long as possible. What is your though on using this to prevent further oxidisation and uv light colour change. Should I be worried, the desk will be in a basement with a decent amount of natural light but not in direct sunlight. Should I be looking at a spray on lacquer instead...it is much much cheaper to go that route and some do have uv protection. Also is it a good idea to glue a plywood board (1/4 thick ) under my maple board (3/4 thick) glue up for added rigidity and thickness. will it prevent or promote cupping this will we installed a solid metal base with wood screws however using 1/4 plywood would allow me to install those thread inserts.
Hey guys- I came upon your channel and have really enjoyed the videos. I’m a fan of your philosophy on your tools, business, videos, and craft. Keep up the good work :)
I think TnT and Odie's are easier to explain to customer being food safe. Like, TnT it's pure linseed oil polymerized and beeswax. I have a gallon of the TnT pure stuff too for mixing and generally it does an awesome job on turnings. And since I can friction polish on the lathe I actually get a coat of it first, then wet sand at 1000 grit, buff out with paper towel, rub some about 80% beeswax/20% carnauba wax mix while lathe is going, then burnish with a brown paper bag piece and I'm done. It's dry to touch then.
Do you have any content on how to use the soap finish kit? Currently making some nightstands out of maple. That could be a great option but I don’t know how to apply it. Thanks!
Good info. Thorough and candid. Thanks for doing this. BTW: Rubio's marketing team should use your blurb: "Rubio Monocoat: it doesn't smell like I'm gonna die." And the "gasoline" line..... Ha! That was gold.
I've been using Tried & True Danish oil lately in my shop, mostly on walnut, and I like it quite a bit. The smell isn't offensive and I like how it goes on, also it's nontoxic and that adds keywords to marketing that you know what type of person appreciates... (though it makes me feel like I'm putting gluten free labels on apples)
@@WilliamDouglasCo Still waiting for this video on the soap finish. I have 3 large maple dressers and am nearing the finish choice point. Application, coverage, results, reasons, etc.
Hi thanks for the info , can I ask what do you think I should use on an oak mantle above a wood burner. It's a nice piece and has some drying splits in it that I want to keep for character, also should I put the oil or finish inside of the splits . Thanks very much
Can I put a more durable finish over the Soap finish for Dining table use/abuse. Of do you have another recommendation for keeping an ash table looking like a platinum blond.
Always love your vids Will. I’ve used Osmo before on a floor. The direction said to apply then wipe off all excess. Well, I didn’t want to walk back onto the floor because it was wet. And it took 3 days for the floor to dry. Shit.
Fack that sucks!! With all of the hard wax oils it’s really important to completely wipe off ALL of the excess. Especially odies and tried & true. It’s tempting to leaving a little sheen later but it actually really kills the potential of the finish
That was just the tip of the ice burg as far as disasters go with that floor. I wish I could tell customers to go f@ck themselves when the want to see stain samples and tell them the need to rip out all their oak and put in walnut. Back in the day that’s how it was. Now interior designers have pushed customers with crazy color schemes. All the ebonies, grays and weathered oaks! I hate them all Will!
I know this video's two years old And I know this Sounds stupid but i'm a complete noob do you use a pre coat or conditioner with the rubio? I didn't see you prepare the wood in the video so i'm assuming no?
I tried Livos which is totally natural and food safe, no odor like the Osmo I had before... and it works great on my cutting boards and tables... nice sheen and leave no marks after use, I would recommend guys 👌
Loved the video. Some additional questions as you only really cover smell, size of piece, and food safe-ness: - durability? I'm working on a chess board, for example, and wondered how these would hold up over time with pieces sliding over - water resistance - color difference (were your walnut pieces all the same, as some went much darker) - sheen differences between them
Hey John, I didn’t do a deep dive into durability testing. Being a hard wax oil finish they are all incredibly easy to touch up as they start to dull. They are all very durable and I believe strongly that people will see different results in terms of longevity and durability based on how they apply the finish. Some of the pieces did look darker but that was only because of the piece of wood. They all gave very similar results in terms of color. As for sheen they were slightly different but nothing too noticeable. My experience has been that you get a lower sheen from the osmo however over heard people say they opposite. In conclusion I think the important things to note are as follows: They are all really good finishes. They are all durable They are all easy to touch up They are all very similar aesthetically The two (T&T / odies) that look the best require a lot more physical labor but are lower in cost per sq/ft covered.
@@WilliamDouglasCo rock on and appreciate it. There's a fantastic video of someone leaving a sweating glass and a puddle of rum on boards finished with Osmo and Odie's (cured 2 weeks). No spots at all on Odies. That and your video sold me and I'll be trying it on my chess board (comes in the mail tomorrow). Can't wait to see that grain pop! ruclips.net/video/4OkL6Ec63aU/видео.html
@@WilliamDouglasCo Just coming back to say I went with it and dayum. I love this stuff. It's so great to have a finish that isn't sensitive to application (like worrying about inevitable dust or streaks in poly), and just looks so amazing. It's gorgeous but looks so natural. I do think it might require more than one coat, as after a few days I felt like certain areas of my board looked more dry than others? I found a guitar builder site who says he does multiples, so I'm going with that. Anyway, loved that I discovered this. It's so easy to use and is beautiful and makes you want to interact with the piece because it looks so natural!
Odie's looked good on some test pieces. Then used Odie's on some walnut tables. Looked good for about 2 weeks, then it got very blotchy. Especially on curly walnut. Had to strip and sand it completely off. Have not had that problem with Osmo 3054 on walnut. Thanks for the video.
Fossil thank you, that’s some great feedback! I have to ask.. did you follow their application process to a T or did you stray at all from the directions?
@@WilliamDouglasCo I read the label and looked over their website and youtube for application instructions. The website by Alexander Luthier had some pretty good information on application, and I followed that pretty close. I used a 3M white pad for application and waited the 30 to 45 minutes to wipe off the excess. Buffed by hand, did not use an electric buffer. This was about a year ago.
Fossil the way I did it was. Sanded to 320-400 grit. Apply with white scotchbrite pad rubbing in with hard pressure and putting on very little oil. The instructions said something among the lines of.. “the only way to do this part wrong is to put too much oil down. Only put as much as you need to cover the area”. After that I waited 30-45 mins and with a 100% cotton cloth I wiped off all excessive oil (with the grain) in a hard even stroke. I kept re-folding my cloth after each stroke and checking after each one making sure the cloth was clean before moving on to the next area. Then I let sit for 24 hours. Scuffed with 0000 steel wool and repeated the steps for a second coat. This process gave me a finish that has lasted a few month so far without any issues.
Can you talk more about your finish you sell? What is the cost? How many coats needed? If multiple coats, what is needed in between the coats? Also, what “type” of finish is it (oil based wax or other?). What type of project (besides light colored woods) would you use it with (large conference table, side table, etc?)? Absolutely love your work both as a RUclipsr and woodworker! I also really like the thought of not turning lighter woods I use into that stupid tan color! I hate that!
Hey Ben, I am going to have to do a video on it because I keep getting similar questions. It’s nothing a invented. I just made it accessible. It’s literally 100% natural soap and water. Nothing els. The trick is in making it. If you visit my website I have more info on its ideal use. Basically.. it’s not hard-wearing. It’s a mild finish that is incredibly easy to apply and completely safe. Your hands get clean as you apply! Anyway.. Williamdouglasco.com
Personally for my commissioned work I will stick to Conversion Varnish forever. There is simply no superior finish in terms of long lasting protection. I don't wanna sell something that will look bad in a year from wear, or force customers to have to add more finish or refinish, etc.
@@WilliamDouglasCo Marine sealer. wipe on Tung oil and other things that hardens, unlike plain tung oil. soaks in like crazy, builds wonderfully. go lo sheen, or keep adding. not a plastic-ie finish. really natural. Best thing for cherry
Do you have any recommendations for lumberyards in Phoenix? I’ve been going to timber woodworking in Mesa lately, but would like to check out some others if you have any favorites. Love the channel!
I’m about to finish some interior doors made of Spanish cypress which I’m told is a juniper that’s similar to a mahogany, though lighter in color. Now, I have no idea if that’s correct. The doors are mostly glass with dividers. They will get a fair amount of use. I’ve just started to research these hard oils. Would you do the Ofie’s or the Rubio? Or, would you go with the soap?
Is that soap finish food safe? Odies oil looks like it might be right up my alley for most applications. I make mostly food related items and those that aren't I generally want to still be made 100% food safe. Been looking at pure tung oil recently.
With Rubio if you don’t use the tannin primer first, you get white spots on oak because of the tannin when in contact with water. With Osmo I didn’t had that problem.
I thought the same thing about an epoxy finished countertop the first time I ran across one, then came the river tables, and my first experience was walking into a house with a dark light and a glowing table that looked like it was cut straight from the middle of the tree and they had Avatar streaming constantly in the background, man that was a long couple of days and I hated that movie for a while, I also thought to myself, rich people are weird. Fast forward a while and wouldnt you know it, the river table separated, the wood had checks all through it and gaps cracks etc. and I made the comment about how wood moves and will dry out etc. and they told me that contradicted what the guy that made the table for them said, and I laughed uncontrollably, to the point it came out my nose because I was trying to hold it in, they even said, he said it just adds to the "natural" look of the table and was normal, then I noticed a piece of corn stuck in a crevice and ask them if they wanted me to dig that out for them, but I stopped myself and said, "Oh yeah, it adds to the natural look of the table, never mind" and I havent been back to that house for anything, given the competition I was up against, and the fact, I have seen better made picnic tables, out of pine that held up better, and they were comparing my work to that.
How do u apply your soap finish, like how long wait after finish to put polish on do you wipe excess off like Rubio, I can’t find directions just bought some
I send out application instructions with the kit, did yours get missed? I’ll do a video on it soon but for now.. you want to wait 30 mins or longer between coats. It really depends on your area and the climate. Do not let any application streaks dry on the wood or you’ll have to buff out with a micro fiber. I typically do one coat of finish Scuff One coat of polish Scuff if needed. (Needed if rough to touch) 2nd coat of polish
Hmm, I'm not sure about the information being given out here. Osmo PolyX is food safe, as is their Top Oil. I've used both extensively, and beyond the usual "don't drink, careful with rags" caveats, it's friendly. Not easy to clean off skin without using unfriendly solvents, but still.
New subscriber here! Loving your videos so far. You’re really showing a side of the business of woodworking that I haven’t seen in other places. Well done, keep it up! As far as finishing goes.. might I recommend General Finishes Arm-R-Seal for you to try out. It’s a simple wipe on top coat. Makes wood grain really pop, it’s easy to apply (I like to sand between coats quickly for a nice smooth finish), and it dries hard and really protects projects. I got the recommendation from Matt Cremona via his RUclips channel. I’d love to hear your thoughts on this for a finish.
Interesting! I’ll look into it. There are so many different options out there it’s kind of crazy. Thank you for watching my vids, I’m happy to hear you’re enjoying them!
Dairy Barn Woodworking we came out of the gate exploding but then hit Covid and it stopped us dead in our tracks haha now we’re just kind of staying in the same spot 😁
Dairy Barn Woodworking yeah that’s what I thought would happen, but our patrons started canceling their memberships and our videos stopped getting promoted because the RUclips employees weren’t working
What kind of durability do each of them give? I’m planning on using Rubio for a large walnut dining table but am concerned about how it will hold up to wear and tear. How have you seen it perform in similar applications?
I have used Osmo before and like it but am considering using Rubio for a large project (big walnut kitchen island). I'm wondering about the length of time you have to use Rubio once it is mixed with the hardener. Is there a time limit?
![Lethal Company Music Video 🎵 "Follow The Orders" [VERSION A]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QeooZB4Z7RA/mqdefault.jpg)
The ultimate underrated woodworking channel!!
Angel Gabriel that’s us
Subscribed because of your comment
@@joninfect8681 haha I’ll take it!
I don’t think it’s under rated. It’s clearly a great channel
@@CraigularjJoeWoodworks i mean that is under-appretiated
"What am I going to use on my epoxy river table?
Fire would be good for that
Perfect
This is the best, I love it when you guys put your humor into the videos! Also, shop rule #1 on the board is just a great life tip in general and people should be aware of it.
Benny Doodson I didn’t mean for that to be in the video hahah
@@WilliamDouglasCo Haha I loved it man, gave me a good chuckle. Good video all up !
I started using Osmo about 6 months ago & absolutely love it!! Plus, it IS food safe!! the smell goes away & the truth is it does such a good job I never even noticed it. I usually start with the thin & then use the Poly-x for the final coat!! Anyone worrying about how long it takes to put a finish on doesn't really care about the finish!! Results are all I care about.
Anyone worrying about how long it takes to put on a finish is doing it professionally to make money and time spent means either charging more money or making less money. Time is a real consideration for professionals.
Exactly. It’s lacquer or go home for me. Granted I’m very experienced with lacquer, altering sheens, etc… but given the dry time and protection it offers, none of these oils touch it.
... or there are other constraints, like finishing a floor where vacating an entire house for days on end isn't practical or possible. Or where there is a lack of space for finishing a large quantity of materials and they need to dry and get off the rack to make room for more...
the odor is unbearable 😄
@@jeromechoquet2075 Osmo doesn't have hardly any odor at all
Beautifully explained. I have used all of the finishes you demonstrated. I use Odie's exclusively. I use a car buffer to apply and buff it with beautiful results. It's quick too. My shop always smells great.
Really!? A car buffer.. that’s crazy. I thought they didn’t encourage application with a buffer because of the heat. I’ve been doing it by hand and now I don’t have to go to the gym anymore
@@WilliamDouglasCo Seriously! A car buffer. I got tired of looking like Popeye too. I use a 6" Ryobi buffer with micro pads. It works great. I usually do it 3 times 20-30 minutes apart (which only takes a few minutes). Then buff it off by hand in most cases unless it's a big tabletop. I found that the heat from the orbital buffing speeds the absorption. The results are always fabulous. I wait 2 days and use Odie's Wood Butter and use the buffer too. Done!
Big fan of these hard wax oils. I lean towards osmo polyx for most furniture due to being able to get a bit more sheen than either Rubio or Odies. Never noticed a smell issue with Osmo either. I do wear gloves when applying. No gloves required and the great smell with Odies keeps me coming back to it for certain projects though.
That’s odd that you say that. The people I know that use polyx say they like it because you get more of a Matte finish out of it
O.K....!!!... someone owes me for the time it's taking me cleaning up the coffee I blew out my nose when he said..."Ah...gasoline would be a great option for that..."...LMAO...This is now one of my favorite channels though outside the scope of woodworking I do...I still love it here!!!
As for the recommended finishes...Well...Er...Uh...???...NO...!!!...Sorry...you lost me on this one too...BIG TIME!!!
Simply put, the reason "antiques" have the unmatched patinas they developed (a big part of their value!!!) is the means, methods, and material applications of their finishes...and those are all-natural and traditional in context...Thus, one either makes their own NATURAL finishes from raw materials...or...gets them blended by someone that knows what traditional finishes are...
For professional to hobbyists that haven't "gotten there" yet on this skill set...go with old recipes and experiments or a place like "Heritage Finishes." Worked with these folks for over 30 years for big projects and usually purchase stock in 50-gallon barrels to blend exactly what is needed...
Core "work-horse" materials...beeswax...pine rosin (or one of the Middle Easter/Asin plant rosin)...flax oil...walnut oil...tung oil...citrus oil as a cutter/carrier. These form the foundation for some of the best and oldest finishes in the world still today and are found on pieces over 2000 years old!
The only one I was familiar with was the OSMO, which I picked up to refinish two small stool tops that are natural pine. Sanded the tops and sides down, applied two coats and got a clear natural pine finish minus the wet look of varnish or polyurethane. Like the flat finish over a gloss or semi gloss as well. Still looking perfect after 3-4 years. Not sure if you two favs are available in Canada but will keep an eye out. Enjoyed this vid (as well as others on your channel). I like the no stain approach to finishing as well as colourless finish products. Really enjoying your channel. Thank you for doing it.
Rob
I have refinished my outdoor furniture with outdoor teak refinnishing oil;big fail, spar varnish; fail. I did 22 pieces at same time, they both failed in 1 year. Won't ever use again, waste of time and money. I next tried odies oil after sanding the finishes off completely and so far, it works. The finishes look great after 1 year. No peeling like the spar varnish, the color of the wood looks great. It's a lot more work, but is worth the effort. I am planning to refinish my whole very large deck with it next.....will see results in a year. I used it because it has been successful on my 6×6 ft island top which was unfinished raw butcherblock. It has done well for 2 years. Water and food spills, including oily foods, have not harmed it.
I totally agree with this, Rubio is used for the majority of my projects. Rubio + Black Walnut= winning
Ok, I've now watched a few of your videos and can't believe I didn't subscribe until now. I love the "no bull" attitude and tone of your content- keep it coming!
As someone who owns a finish shop and done full houses in rubio I would say you definitely need to wear a mask with it. The catalyzer is what is killing brain cells. I get worse headaches with that stuff than I do conversion varnish. You should try emmet’s good stuff
Like you, I spent resources on a can of each of the market leaders....did a bit of 'research' and bought a lab hotplate on Amazon for $50. Spent another $100 on a couple pounds of hard wax, pine resin and a quart of Limonene solvent. Had a can of Linseed oil. I've now got the makings for all the hard wax oil I'm going to need for a good long while. The sheen is adjustable by how much pine resin one uses. I also got some Japan Dryer and a small bottle of Cobalt....but have not found any info yet on just how to use them to hasten the curing time. I'm not doing work for clients, so cure time between coats is no problem. -Veteran '66-68
Just found your video. Both fun and informative - so I subscribed! Thanks! I'm retired but still spend a lot of time in my shop. I really dislike stains -- I like to let the wood speak for itself. So I've been using Odie's, and have liked the results. I haven't tried Odie's Dark yet, but will order that soon. I actually use a fair amount of elm and honeylocust, and I would like something that won't show yellow so much with age. Don't know yet how the dark will work, but trying is how I find out. Thanks again!
Get that sponsorship dude, we believe in you.
Gasoline!! love it man. You know if you flog those knotheads more they will listen better
Hahaha just raising awareness
That definitely had me rolling, although I like working with resin so far although I don’t consider myself a true wood worker yet. Overall very helpful video as I work with a good deal of both blk walnut and ash, and have stuck with Osmo since discovering it after beginning with poly ( which I don’t think I’ll ever go back) but will definitely check out The others now. Especially for the ash
Just stumbled on this channel this morning. Informative and hilarious. Subscribed. Great sense of humor!
Glad you had so much fun putting this together. Too bad there is no performance review besides what the finisher likes applying. So how do they perform with wear and tear? Abrasion, water, alcohol were not even mentioned. So I can only assume the resistance to wear and tear is simply unmentionable due to poor performance. Food safe? I never mix my food with a finish and I never eat off of furniture without a plate or bowl, but I do see the damage done to furniture by spills and use.
Several questions and input for you: I only use Rubio on straight grain Doug fir interior trim outs. Absolutely love the stuff. No stink. No color change to the wood. Easy setup and clean up. And no sander’s fatigue. (Insert sparkle smile here). However, I have a super large (5x9) dining table build coming up and have been worrying about finish durability and life,
1) What has your experience been on finish life?
2) Next. A tip for you. I just bought a used 13” 4 head random orbital sander made by Surcar. Their core market are solid surface counter top fabricators. It makes short work out of big surface area sanding with high surface quality. And gives a dead flat surface as an added bonus. And has superior dust control. New they are several thousand bucks. Well worth the ROI. They are built rock solid. Mine is 15 years old and all it needed was new pads.
3) also am curious about your shop location and neighbor “relationship management”. It looks like your shop is in a house in a neighborhood. You use big loud tools daily. Do you get complaints? If so, how do you deal with it.
4) Anyway, love your channel, totally impressed with your mad design skills and build quality. Finally, major kudos to the thoughtful approach you take to managing the totally loaded cost impacts on profits. You rock.
Hey Jack, thanks for dropping us a line.
As for finish durability.. I am happy with what I get out of any of these hard wax oils. They don’t last forever but they are easy to touch up, refinish, and spot repair. 90% of our furniture is solid wood so it’s kind of refreshing to revisit and re-finish a piece one afternoon after 5 years or so.
I’ve never heard of it used that kind of sander although I am pretty intrigued. I think at that price point.. as a woodworker you would be better off with a fixed head drum sander.
As for the shop location.. watch my latest video!! I talk about that in depth and I’m excited for you to see it.
Thanks again!
@@WilliamDouglasCo thanks for getting back. Glad to find out you personally read and respond to comments. I am seriously considering joining your Patreon crew. Are the Magnums found on the “tool” list used as appreciation gifts for new members?
@@Jacksterific bahahahah that would be a power move!
Love your videos. Can these be used on furniture that is already stained and finished? I want to bring back the beauty of my china cabinet.
OSMO is food safe. Although not tested for U.S. standards when it was imported from Germany, it meets European and German standards: "When dry, finish is safe for humans, animals and plants
and is suitable for children‘s toys as per EN 71.3 (European norm) and is saliva-resistant and sweatproof
according to DIN 53160 (German industrial norm)."
Thank you for the info!
Great intro skit on this video! Nice work fellas 👏👌
The ONLY finish I’ll use is non- toxic! Thank for the comparisons. Which would you recommend if you want a matte finish, you don’t to darken the wood too much, but you want protection from heat and water for a dining table?
Great video! As far as the monocrat, you just put on finish on it and its good to go? No other product goes over it? Never used it before.
Rubio monocoat is a 2 part system. It has a hardener or “accelerator” that you add to speed up the curing process. It is truly 1 coat hence the name “Monocoat”. However.. if you didn’t sand well, you may find yourself benefitting from a second coat
He's alive! I'm a big fan of Danish oil, use tons of it, but I have to admit I've always felt some guilt on account of all the poor Danish souls that were pressed to make it.
North Road Woodwork thank you for watching! I haven’t used danish oil before. Is it similar to a hard wax oil?
@@WilliamDouglasCo It's actually a blend of oil with some amount of varnish in it. My other go to, especially for food safe, is pure Tung oil thinned with citrus solvent.
@@WilliamDouglasCo it's basically another version of a wiping varnish.
I love Rubio and Osmo for different things. I do hate mixing the rubio because theres always waist and thats money down the drain. A 2nd coat is usually needed for a great finish on more porous woods. I love that it has a hardener though... The smell of Osmo really isnt that bad. No waist, but maintenance is recommended sooner. Easier to reapply and sand to a mirror finish. Osmo does have more product lines for many different purposes.
Good to know about the Odies.... Thanks for the info.
A waist is a terrible thing to waste.
Really loved the content, also trying to get away from poly's. Only used hardwax once and I am moving into that direction. Very informative.
Does your finish (for light wood) repel water rings?
Also great video, always funny and original
Where can I buy the soap finish? Depending on the wood/grain, Osmo and Rubio both make finished with lighteners in them that do an ok job of preserving light wood color. It's technically stain, but since all finishes amber wood, I don't really see the difference between a stain and a finish. I guess that's a different approach than trying to pass off poplar as cocobolo though...
In one comment below you “Hearted” a comment about using ArmRSeal, but I think you dont use any polyurethane - is ArmRSeal an exception? I’m just starting to make some furniture, several side tables, and my Manager-in-Chief says they need to be coffee cup safe. For these small tables would you still recommend Odies? Great videos!
I don’t know what armRSeal is amd have never used it. I’ve used Rubio monocoat for several coffee shop pieces I’ve made In past. No issues. I’m still kind of new to odies but have been using it a lot more. Haven’t had any issues like a lot of other people describe.. so far
I had the streaking issue with odies a couple weeks after finishing but I have found that as long as I wipe all of it off I dont have any issue, I keep hearing people say it ain’t good but I keep going back and checking projects and it seems great as long as I made sure to wipe with a clean towel till no residue appears on the towel
OSMO is food safe, it's also child's toy safe once cured. I love this video. Very informative and the fact that you tested the most popular oil finishes is really the ticket.
newer woodworker here... building a red-oak dining table. What would you finish it with? I was thinking Tried&True varnish oil, but I like a lighter wood look (the wife does too). Thanks for the video... love the sarcasm :)
Thank you for posting great content! I would consider Cherry light, would you recommend the soap finish or the Osmo/Rubio?
I’ve honestly never tried soap finish on cherry. The lighter cherry would probably look great with soap. The darker and more rich cherry would probably look better with a hard wax oil
Nice you have made the choice to go no-stain and not try to make poplar look like cherry, honesty in wood appearance. Also takes a lot of the guesswork out of finishing things. My experience with Rubio and Osmo happens to involve attempts to recoat an old, formerly dark stained oak table with a light color from both manufacturers. Applying both Rubio and Osmo light colors, seemed to be a futile attempt. Of the four different light color samples tried, little difference was noticed once the excess was removed. Maybe I'll just go natural, pure, raw, or clear, which as you know are the no stain options for these two product lines. A stain is still a stain by any other name?
Awesome video. Loved the humour. So umm... what is the only finish you use exactly? 😜😂
Ok serious question: I’m a cabinet maker about to build a kitchen for my brother out of real zebra wood. (Solid wood trim and doors, veneer core plywood boxes). Am I crazy to use a hard wax oil like one of these on the kitchen? I’m not sold on traditional lacquers or varnishes for this job. Cost isn’t my biggest concern. Quality finish is top priority. I’ve worked with osmo polyx finish before on coffee tables and have some Rubio monocoat to try but haven’t used it myself yet. I’m leaning towards the osmo. The formula I have is not smelly and listed as food safe once fully dry. So far I’m very happy with it. I just don’t know how easy it would work into/wipe dry the corners, and if I’m crazy to try finishing an entire kitchen with a hardwax oil like this. If you have any thoughts for this application I would appreciate it. Thanks!
How many coats of gasoline should I put on my epoxy river table again?
Fantastic video. I learned and you earned a subscriber.
Thanks so much!
That quick pan to the dollar and powder was so funny 😂😂
Hahahah so funny
Thanks for taking the time to make this video
Thank you for taking the time to watch and drop a comment!
Finally! We need more videos!
Chas Bonar I need more patrons!!
Excellent video! Good information delivered in a funny & concise way!
WD - I'd like to request a t-shirt with the Build logo on front and your shop rules on the back! I've got the original Build shirt, but this sir, would be an instant classic. Nice job on the video too! Like you, I'm partial to rubio because of the smell as well!
Rob Middleton those damn shop rules slipped in there! I didn’t know they were in the video until someone said something hahah
Rob Middleton also.. that’s a great idea for the shirt haha I just might do that
Love the comment at 9:21, “I’m probably just going to use Rubio because it doesn’t smell like I’m gonna die.”, lmao
Not on the wood.. but maybe i should
Have you tried Osmo Top Oil? Food safe and no mask required. Lovely finish.
David Boyce no I haven’t heard of that one!
@@WilliamDouglasCo It's good, hunt it out. I use it a lot. Also, I'm pretty sure the PolyX Oil is food safe as well. Been a while since I checked the MSDS data sheet, but seem to recall that it's not toxic.
Oh, hate river tables. Were interesting for maybe five minutes, then everyone was doing them.
I'm doing my first woodworking project a computer desk top which is solid maple board trimmed in purple heart. I'm considering using rubio monocoat however I'm concerned about preserving the look/ colour of purple heart for as long as possible. What is your though on using this to prevent further oxidisation and uv light colour change. Should I be worried, the desk will be in a basement with a decent amount of natural light but not in direct sunlight. Should I be looking at a spray on lacquer instead...it is much much cheaper to go that route and some do have uv protection.
Also is it a good idea to glue a plywood board (1/4 thick ) under my maple board (3/4 thick) glue up for added rigidity and thickness. will it prevent or promote cupping this will we installed a solid metal base with wood screws however using 1/4 plywood would allow me to install those thread inserts.
Granted I am old school but I prefer a mixture of Beeswax, Boiled linseed oil and tung oil! Easy to apply and easy to repair and durable
Which is probably what some of these are made of.
Hey guys- I came upon your channel and have really enjoyed the videos. I’m a fan of your philosophy on your tools, business, videos, and craft. Keep up the good work :)
Thank you so much!! Really appreciate it!
Im so happy i found this Channel. Thank you guys for amazing content. It already helped me a lot.
That’s awesome to hear! Thank you for watching
I think TnT and Odie's are easier to explain to customer being food safe. Like, TnT it's pure linseed oil polymerized and beeswax. I have a gallon of the TnT pure stuff too for mixing and generally it does an awesome job on turnings. And since I can friction polish on the lathe I actually get a coat of it first, then wet sand at 1000 grit, buff out with paper towel, rub some about 80% beeswax/20% carnauba wax mix while lathe is going, then burnish with a brown paper bag piece and I'm done. It's dry to touch then.
We don’t snort the soap! Lmao. Great video! Very informative.
Mario Garcia haha thank you for watching
Omg I’m in stitches and also enlightened
Do you have any content on how to use the soap finish kit? Currently making some nightstands out of maple. That could be a great option but I don’t know how to apply it. Thanks!
Good info. Thorough and candid.
Thanks for doing this.
BTW: Rubio's marketing team should use your blurb: "Rubio Monocoat: it doesn't smell like I'm gonna die."
And the "gasoline" line..... Ha! That was gold.
Haha I should join a marketing team!
I've been using Tried & True Danish oil lately in my shop, mostly on walnut, and I like it quite a bit. The smell isn't offensive and I like how it goes on, also it's nontoxic and that adds keywords to marketing that you know what type of person appreciates... (though it makes me feel like I'm putting gluten free labels on apples)
thanks for the tip on soap finish for light woods, just ordered them from you
Hello and thanks for your great videos. I'm working on vintage audio systems what is the best option for side wood panels ?
I'd love to see a video on your finishing soap!
I’ll do one!
@@WilliamDouglasCo Still waiting for this video on the soap finish. I have 3 large maple dressers and am nearing the finish choice point. Application, coverage, results, reasons, etc.
Hi thanks for the info , can I ask what do you think I should use on an oak mantle above a wood burner. It's a nice piece and has some drying splits in it that I want to keep for character, also should I put the oil or finish inside of the splits .
Thanks very much
Can I put a more durable finish over the Soap finish for Dining table use/abuse. Of do you have another recommendation for keeping an ash table looking like a platinum blond.
I have never tried that but I would think not. The soap finish would likely keep anything from hardening and bonding to it.
Glad to see you share my disdain for stain!
Always love your vids Will. I’ve used Osmo before on a floor. The direction said to apply then wipe off all excess. Well, I didn’t want to walk back onto the floor because it was wet. And it took 3 days for the floor to dry. Shit.
Fack that sucks!! With all of the hard wax oils it’s really important to completely wipe off ALL of the excess. Especially odies and tried & true. It’s tempting to leaving a little sheen later but it actually really kills the potential of the finish
That was just the tip of the ice burg as far as disasters go with that floor. I wish I could tell customers to go f@ck themselves when the want to see stain samples and tell them the need to rip out all their oak and put in walnut. Back in the day that’s how it was. Now interior designers have pushed customers with crazy color schemes. All the ebonies, grays and weathered oaks! I hate them all Will!
Any recommends for wood floor refinishing. I also try to preserve brain cells, and don't really like thick glass-like finishes.
Osmo makes a food safe version of their product specifically for use on cutting boards, counter tops etc.
Good video! I appreciate the honest opinion and advice.
Kevin Springer there’s nothing like unbiased comparisons!
I am planning out a build for a yellow birch farm table. Which would recommend for the table top?
I know this video's two years old And I know this Sounds stupid but i'm a complete noob do you use a pre coat or conditioner with the rubio? I didn't see you prepare the wood in the video so i'm assuming no?
I tried Livos which is totally natural and food safe, no odor like the Osmo I had before... and it works great on my cutting boards and tables... nice sheen and leave no marks after use, I would recommend guys 👌
Loved the video. Some additional questions as you only really cover smell, size of piece, and food safe-ness:
- durability? I'm working on a chess board, for example, and wondered how these would hold up over time with pieces sliding over
- water resistance
- color difference (were your walnut pieces all the same, as some went much darker)
- sheen differences between them
Hey John,
I didn’t do a deep dive into durability testing. Being a hard wax oil finish they are all incredibly easy to touch up as they start to dull. They are all very durable and I believe strongly that people will see different results in terms of longevity and durability based on how they apply the finish.
Some of the pieces did look darker but that was only because of the piece of wood. They all gave very similar results in terms of color. As for sheen they were slightly different but nothing too noticeable. My experience has been that you get a lower sheen from the osmo however over heard people say they opposite.
In conclusion I think the important things to note are as follows:
They are all really good finishes.
They are all durable
They are all easy to touch up
They are all very similar aesthetically
The two (T&T / odies) that look the best require a lot more physical labor but are lower in cost per sq/ft covered.
@@WilliamDouglasCo rock on and appreciate it. There's a fantastic video of someone leaving a sweating glass and a puddle of rum on boards finished with Osmo and Odie's (cured 2 weeks). No spots at all on Odies. That and your video sold me and I'll be trying it on my chess board (comes in the mail tomorrow). Can't wait to see that grain pop!
ruclips.net/video/4OkL6Ec63aU/видео.html
@@WilliamDouglasCo Just coming back to say I went with it and dayum. I love this stuff. It's so great to have a finish that isn't sensitive to application (like worrying about inevitable dust or streaks in poly), and just looks so amazing. It's gorgeous but looks so natural. I do think it might require more than one coat, as after a few days I felt like certain areas of my board looked more dry than others? I found a guitar builder site who says he does multiples, so I'm going with that.
Anyway, loved that I discovered this. It's so easy to use and is beautiful and makes you want to interact with the piece because it looks so natural!
@@johnhendy1281 love to hear this! I’m happy it worked out for you! Odies is typically 2 coats
Odie's looked good on some test pieces. Then used Odie's on some walnut tables. Looked good for about 2 weeks, then it got very blotchy.
Especially on curly walnut. Had to strip and sand it completely off. Have not had that problem with Osmo 3054 on walnut. Thanks for the video.
Fossil thank you, that’s some great feedback! I have to ask.. did you follow their application process to a T or did you stray at all from the directions?
@@WilliamDouglasCo I read the label and looked over their website and youtube for application instructions.
The website by Alexander Luthier had some pretty good information on application, and I followed that pretty close.
I used a 3M white pad for application and waited the 30 to 45 minutes to wipe off the excess. Buffed by hand,
did not use an electric buffer. This was about a year ago.
Fossil the way I did it was. Sanded to 320-400 grit. Apply with white scotchbrite pad rubbing in with hard pressure and putting on very little oil. The instructions said something among the lines of.. “the only way to do this part wrong is to put too much oil down. Only put as much as you need to cover the area”. After that I waited 30-45 mins and with a 100% cotton cloth I wiped off all excessive oil (with the grain) in a hard even stroke. I kept re-folding my cloth after each stroke and checking after each one making sure the cloth was clean before moving on to the next area. Then I let sit for 24 hours. Scuffed with 0000 steel wool and repeated the steps for a second coat. This process gave me a finish that has lasted a few month so far without any issues.
In terms of gloss, have you compared Rubio and Osmo? I need to find out which can be buffed to the highest gloss. Thanks!
I’m pretty sure you can choose the sheen when buying osmo. Rubio has a sheen but it’s mild. The osmo I used in this video was low sheen.
Can you talk more about your finish you sell? What is the cost? How many coats needed? If multiple coats, what is needed in between the coats? Also, what “type” of finish is it (oil based wax or other?). What type of project (besides light colored woods) would you use it with (large conference table, side table, etc?)? Absolutely love your work both as a RUclipsr and woodworker! I also really like the thought of not turning lighter woods I use into that stupid tan color! I hate that!
Hey Ben, I am going to have to do a video on it because I keep getting similar questions. It’s nothing a invented. I just made it accessible. It’s literally 100% natural soap and water. Nothing els. The trick is in making it. If you visit my website I have more info on its ideal use. Basically.. it’s not hard-wearing. It’s a mild finish that is incredibly easy to apply and completely safe. Your hands get clean as you apply! Anyway..
Williamdouglasco.com
I found your video looking for Walrus Oil Furniture Butter reviews. Have you tried that one?
I have not used that one before
Personally for my commissioned work I will stick to Conversion Varnish forever. There is simply no superior finish in terms of long lasting protection. I don't wanna sell something that will look bad in a year from wear, or force customers to have to add more finish or refinish, etc.
Nathan Terepocki to each there own! I personally don’t like it.
I totally get your opening comments, "we don't use that (crap) in this shop".... so where do you stand on Waterlox? I'm going to try Rubio, Thanks!
I’ve never heard of waterlox. What is it?
@@WilliamDouglasCo Marine sealer. wipe on Tung oil and other things that hardens, unlike plain tung oil. soaks in like crazy, builds wonderfully. go lo sheen, or keep adding. not a plastic-ie finish. really natural. Best thing for cherry
Waterlox is not natural oil based. It is very chemy. I don't bring it in my home or shop.
Do you have any recommendations for lumberyards in Phoenix? I’ve been going to timber woodworking in Mesa lately, but would like to check out some others if you have any favorites.
Love the channel!
I use peterman lumber primarily
Great review. Learnt a lot about where and when to apply the different finishes. Thank you!
Which of the four do you comb into that glorious moustache?
The one that smells like poison
Great vid, informative and pretty funny. Thanks for the help!
I’m about to finish some interior doors made of Spanish cypress which I’m told is a juniper that’s similar to a mahogany, though lighter in color. Now, I have no idea if that’s correct. The doors are mostly glass with dividers. They will get a fair amount of use. I’ve just started to research these hard oils. Would you do the Ofie’s or the Rubio? Or, would you go with the soap?
I would use Rubio for that specific application
Is that soap finish food safe? Odies oil looks like it might be right up my alley for most applications. I make mostly food related items and those that aren't I generally want to still be made 100% food safe. Been looking at pure tung oil recently.
What do you recommend for a butcher block countertop something with a hard Janka like Oak
We just did one for a customer and used odies oil. It was beautiful and no complaints from the customer
Excellent info. What I needed to know.
Thanks🏁
That was as awesome. Thank you for the info!
Can I add rubios to a walnut lazy Susan that was treated with Danish oil previously
I usa rubio for furniture and osmo for tables, because its more durable against staining., which can happen to a table.
Daniel J. I find them all very durable
With Rubio if you don’t use the tannin primer first, you get white spots on oak because of the tannin when in contact with water. With Osmo I didn’t had that problem.
I thought the same thing about an epoxy finished countertop the first time I ran across one, then came the river tables, and my first experience was walking into a house with a dark light and a glowing table that looked like it was cut straight from the middle of the tree and they had Avatar streaming constantly in the background, man that was a long couple of days and I hated that movie for a while, I also thought to myself, rich people are weird. Fast forward a while and wouldnt you know it, the river table separated, the wood had checks all through it and gaps cracks etc. and I made the comment about how wood moves and will dry out etc. and they told me that contradicted what the guy that made the table for them said, and I laughed uncontrollably, to the point it came out my nose because I was trying to hold it in, they even said, he said it just adds to the "natural" look of the table and was normal, then I noticed a piece of corn stuck in a crevice and ask them if they wanted me to dig that out for them, but I stopped myself and said, "Oh yeah, it adds to the natural look of the table, never mind" and I havent been back to that house for anything, given the competition I was up against, and the fact, I have seen better made picnic tables, out of pine that held up better, and they were comparing my work to that.
AaronCo29 ah man thanks for sharing that story. I needed a good laugh. Now every time I see an epoxy river table I’m just going to think of corn
How do u apply your soap finish, like how long wait after finish to put polish on do you wipe excess off like Rubio, I can’t find directions just bought some
I send out application instructions with the kit, did yours get missed? I’ll do a video on it soon but for now..
you want to wait 30 mins or longer between coats. It really depends on your area and the climate. Do not let any application streaks dry on the wood or you’ll have to buff out with a micro fiber. I typically do
one coat of finish
Scuff
One coat of polish
Scuff if needed. (Needed if rough to touch)
2nd coat of polish
@@WilliamDouglasCo might have got missed or if it was outside of the box and in the delivery box I could have thrown it out
Just found this channel..... Gold 👌🏻
Thank you for watching!!
Great vid! I use Osmo topsoil because it is mostly natural - not chemical. Odour is important I guess, but hardly scientific.
“Mostly natural” is a fun way of saying “offers poor protection.”
Real talk, though- which one tastes the best?
Hmm, I'm not sure about the information being given out here. Osmo PolyX is food safe, as is their Top Oil. I've used both extensively, and beyond the usual "don't drink, careful with rags" caveats, it's friendly. Not easy to clean off skin without using unfriendly solvents, but still.
Which one would be recommended for a surface that comes i to contact with alcohol? I’m making some bourbon flight boards.
Any of them would be good for that application 😀
New subscriber here! Loving your videos so far. You’re really showing a side of the business of woodworking that I haven’t seen in other places. Well done, keep it up!
As far as finishing goes.. might I recommend General Finishes Arm-R-Seal for you to try out. It’s a simple wipe on top coat. Makes wood grain really pop, it’s easy to apply (I like to sand between coats quickly for a nice smooth finish), and it dries hard and really protects projects. I got the recommendation from Matt Cremona via his RUclips channel. I’d love to hear your thoughts on this for a finish.
Interesting! I’ll look into it. There are so many different options out there it’s kind of crazy.
Thank you for watching my vids, I’m happy to hear you’re enjoying them!
Can someone please explain why this channel is not exploding!? Great content and funny as hell.
Dairy Barn Woodworking we came out of the gate exploding but then hit Covid and it stopped us dead in our tracks haha now we’re just kind of staying in the same spot 😁
@@WilliamDouglasCo strange. I would have thought Covid would have boosted you with everyone staying home.
Dairy Barn Woodworking yeah that’s what I thought would happen, but our patrons started canceling their memberships and our videos stopped getting promoted because the RUclips employees weren’t working
@@WilliamDouglasCo Bummer man.
Dairy Barn Woodworking all good man
Awesome content, awesome humor as well! You deserve more subscribers bro ;)
Greetings from Spain
Thank you so much! Don’t know how I missed this comment!
Love your humor. New subscriber.
Thank you so much!! Really appreciate the support 🙏🏼
What kind of durability do each of them give? I’m planning on using Rubio for a large walnut dining table but am concerned about how it will hold up to wear and tear. How have you seen it perform in similar applications?
They all are great in terms of durability. I just used Rubio on a massive walnut bar.
@@WilliamDouglasCo It’s true. Dylan poured soda all over it and it didn’t even fall apart.
What are those sponge pads you’re using to put the finishes on?
The black ones are pads that I have made. I sell them on my website if you are interested! Williamdouglasco.com
I have used Osmo before and like it but am considering using Rubio for a large project (big walnut kitchen island). I'm wondering about the length of time you have to use Rubio once it is mixed with the hardener. Is there a time limit?
I think its 2-4hrs
What’s good for aromatic eastern red cedar? I’m not concerned with keeping it aromatic.