I've always been curious about paste wax with resin. The Woodworker's Pocket Book from Lost Art Press mentions it, but doesn't say how much resin to add. I've heard carnauba wax can be a bit brittle. The brittleness can be reduced by mixing in polysorbate 60, not sure about ps 20 and ps 80 (according to Zhang et al DOI: 10.1016/j.polymer.2016.01.033) What are your thoughts on carnauba and carnauba mixed with beeswax? This was an interesting video, thank you. The results are pretty good for both of them.
Misconception, as many over the counter finishes fully cured, becomes food safe. Fully cured means, wait till the carrier has fully evaporated and left behind only the solids, in form of wax, and/ or oils ( if the oils are pure, raw linseed, tung, mineral), and/or acrylics, which is approximately 30 days. With the caveat, you don’t want acrylic or varnish (hard) finishes for cutting boards, yet fine for wooden food containers, as well as table or counter tops. Cutting boards are coated with a mix of or combination of, only oils, raw linseed, mineral, or pure tung oil, with wax. You will probably need 3 to 4 coats, allowing to dry and buff in between each coat. Then top up every month or two depending on usage and wash technique. The weakest being mineral oil, as it doesn’t really dry. Most people are too lazy to put that many coats on, or have no idea. Shrugs. Cheers
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The stain tests the oil to the extreme since it's highly penetrative
even to the point of staining some plastics
Excellent demonstration, thanks!
Thanks for sharing. I make a beeswax paste using the Lost Art Press recipe with orange oil. Love it. Will have to try your recipe.
You do amazing work such a talent 👏👏
thanks for sharing! what brand of urethane did you use?
Thanks for showing this! Did you used boiled linseed oil or pure linseed oil?
Did you use off the shelf urethane ?
where did you buy the urethane ?
Can you use tung oil rather than linseed oil?
Yes, I think it's might be even better than linseed oil
I've always been curious about paste wax with resin. The Woodworker's Pocket Book from Lost Art Press mentions it, but doesn't say how much resin to add.
I've heard carnauba wax can be a bit brittle. The brittleness can be reduced by mixing in polysorbate 60, not sure about ps 20 and ps 80 (according to Zhang et al DOI: 10.1016/j.polymer.2016.01.033)
What are your thoughts on carnauba and carnauba mixed with beeswax?
This was an interesting video, thank you. The results are pretty good for both of them.
What are you spraying at the end to clean off the stain? Is that just water? Thank you for this video!
Yes it is just water.
I too am interested in your source for urethane
I used alkyd urethane varnish but polyurethane will work too, might be even better.
Obviously not food safe...
Misconception, as many over the counter finishes fully cured, becomes food safe. Fully cured means, wait till the carrier has fully evaporated and left behind only the solids, in form of wax, and/ or oils ( if the oils are pure, raw linseed, tung, mineral), and/or acrylics, which is approximately 30 days.
With the caveat, you don’t want acrylic or varnish (hard) finishes for cutting boards, yet fine for wooden food containers, as well as table or counter tops. Cutting boards are coated with a mix of or combination of, only oils, raw linseed, mineral, or pure tung oil, with wax. You will probably need 3 to 4 coats, allowing to dry and buff in between each coat. Then top up every month or two depending on usage and wash technique. The weakest being mineral oil, as it doesn’t really dry.
Most people are too lazy to put that many coats on, or have no idea. Shrugs.
Cheers