I really appreciate the time you take to post these videos. I am in the early stages of reverting from power tools towards traditional hand tools and you have been helping me along this journey. Great stuff 👍
It's all so easy isn't it. Back to basics ,no fancy expensive products. I bought a litre of pure tung oil from Bunnings for 70 bucks. I use it straight or diluted with turps . It gives me a wonderful finish. I have beeswax and will make some paste wax as your recipe but not linseed oil. Geoff from Tasmania
Geoff - hi, I'm in Tassie too. Thought I'd ask you if you know of a good paste wax for wooden floors. I just need to sand mine, and want to apply something that will be easy to sweep or vacuum, and wash. Do you know if Gilly's Floor Polish is good, or is it best used with something else? Lots of questions but keen to avoid varnish. My floorboards were laid in 1911, so maybe quite dry and hard.
Just started using paste wax as my main finish. Mine is based on mineral oil. Definitely my favourite finish. Super easy to apply, no chemical smell, soft on hands. You cant mess it up. Easilly beats youtubes favourite danish oil.
I've seen it made with a bit of coconut oil instead of linseed. I add orange essential oil to mine and it smells amazing. I'm going to try it today with beeswax, coconut oil, cocoa butter and orange essential oil. Hope it works!
Glad you got some value out of the video. I have never done a mineral oil version, would love to know how it turns out. Also if you check out the Katz- Moses RUclips link in the description he makes a paste wax using mineral oil, if that helps. Thanks for watching
I use a very similar method, except I do the mixture in a glass jam pot and I double boil it. I simply put water in a pot, and the linseed oil/wax mixture in a jam pot in the water. I use a small electrical stove. I think it is very safe since there is no flame, and the water can't possibly get hot enough to ignite the mixture. It takes a while to melt (and to cool back down), but that's OK. I also use raw linseed oil, it is much more common here and I don't think the drying times are too bad. I love how it feels and looks on wooden tool handles, you get a really nice patina IMO.
Your method does sound safer than mine, might have to improve my setup. I agree the drying time of raw linseed is not too bad and i also like the patina it produces. Thanks for the comment.
Great lesson! Fortunately, I kept a couple of beehive wax beds from my beekeeper adventures. Thanks and greetings from Brazil to the beautiful Aussie outback!
For me there is nothing that compares to the touch of wax finish. I have depended on Johnson’s paste wax on wood and metal tools, sliding parts until they discontinued it. I used poly on things that i cant re-apply wax to later, such as complicated items or going to other people. Thank you so much for the recipe! Probably healthier than Johnsons too. Cheers mate!
It my pleasure to share it, i use this paste wax for a lot of tasks, from a main finish, top coat finish over film finishes, and also to help prevent rust on metal tools its pretty useful stuff. Enjoy making your own.
Thanks mate - that was great. You could also use a portable single induction stove (Aldi has them occasionally, and I think IKEA has one) instead of the open flame while heating flammable liquids. I know you said you take extreme care - made me a bit twitchy. Anyway. I’m going to use your recipe - thanks!
You're not the first person to mention using an induction cooker, i will look into it and thanks for suggesting where to buy them. Hope you enjoy the paste wax!
I use beeswax, mineral oil, and coconut oil, works great and has a nice pong, great for cutting boards etc. I also use a double boiler, slow cooker so no naked flame and cheap from Kmart. Cheers from Perth
I've got a few blocks of beeswax and a bottle of BLO from Bunnings sitting in the garage for ages now. Got to get off my bum and start making some paste wax!
I did this but changed it up a bit. Ratio was 10% wax & 5% d-limonene... it ended up a quite firm paste. Wax-wise it was 50/50 beeswax and carnuaba. Bit more work because the mix is a bit stiff.
The exact type of paste wax I was looking for. Many people just use minearal oil, but the most natural and healthy one is raw linseed oil for sure. However you could heat the oil before using it for wood, to make a kind of boiled linseed oil without chemicals, which fastens the drying process (Woodbywright made a video about it)
Thanks Durman, the main reason i made this video was because i wanted to show the most natural version i could. You're exactly right about the heating of the oil, it was the traditional way it was made before chemical driers were created. I too have seen woodbywrights video and wish to try it for myself at some point. Thanks for the comment, enjoy your all natural paste wax.
Thank you abbasduman6963 and AussieWoodshed. I'm going to be trying warming the beeswax and cold-pressed (not boiled) linseed oil as shown, but then use a syringe to suction the warm fluid and apply it quickly onto the wood before it becomes paste. Main reason isn't drying time but because I think there will be more penetration that way.
@@passerby6168Try it out ;) I'd still boil the linseed oil before, as I think it will be more effective, but let us know your results! I'd love to know how it turns out
Hey mate I’ve got all products to make my own wax , but I see in these comments that a few people have recommended Tung oil , I can go get some Tung oil but if your recommendation is still linseed ide rather use linseed , I don’t mind the smell of it at all . I’m guessing that’s why these guys want Tung oil for a different smell maybe 🤔. Let me know cheers great vid I subbed so I can learn more from ya , I’m in tweed heads 👍
Hi! Thanks for a great video! Is this safe to use on cutting boards and other things that come in direct contact with food and drinks? I’m a novice to woodworking and trying to find something to use on a wooden beer mug and some other things I’ve made, I would really appreciate any advice☺️ Please regard that English is my second language and I’m from Scandinavia so we might not have the same brands here as you do elsewhere in the world, so a little extra explanation about certain products is appreciated as well, thank you in advance and have a nice day!😊
Sorry it's taken so long for me to respond. I am planning to release a video next week to answer this question along with a few others as it's going to be easy for me to show you rather than explain it.
@@AussieWoodshed oh thank you so much! Perfect timing since I’m going to have some free time in the “workshop” (not sure it’s the right word?😅) tomorrow!😁
It does still smell like linseed oil, but the smell is not as strong. Personally i haven't really noticed the smell when I've used it on items, but that may be because i am used to the smell.
Hi, thank you so much❣️ Suppose, it'll never go rancit as it has the beeswax in it? How often do you have too re-apply it? Is it usable on ordinary normal used kitchen utensils too? Keep up the good work👍💝🤩 Is it usable for leather too?
Glad you liked the video. Linseed oil doesn't tend to go racid so with the wax i have never had it go rancid. You re-apply it when the work starts to look a bit dry or rough if you like your work to feel smooth to the touch. I have only used it on wooden chopping boards, but never on utensils, but i suspect it should be fine. I have also never used it on leather, not sure if Linseed oil paste wax oil is a good idea on leather as linseed oil is a polymerizing oil. I would suggest some research first. Hope this helps
Generally for paste wax linseed oil or mineral oil is used due to it being stable and not going bad. My understanding is that olive oil would go rancid, but i have not made it using olive oil so i can't say for sure. I have heard others say it goes rancid but once again i can't confirm this. Maybe i should do a video on testing other common oils?
I've never used paste was on cane furniture, but i don't see it being a problem. You could try it on a small hidden part to try first, if no on else has tried it.
@@kiranmajid9577 I have never used it over chalk paint but have over milk paint and it was fine. I believe it would be fine as the 2 paints are similar but as i haven't tried it i can't say yes for sure. It may be best to do a trial first to know for sure.
An idea would to heat upt the mix in a pot filled with water on low heat. You don't need boiling water as bee's wax melts at way cooler temperature. But it's still hot, though.
Another word to look for is cold-pressed (linseed oil). Cold-pressed means it hasn't been boiled (to which they add chemicals) and is actually raw. Different parts of the world have different terms for the same thing.
I haven't used this paste wax directly on a stain, so I don't know. I don't think it would. I could do some tests and get back to you, but it could vary between stain brands also. But right now i won't recommend it since i haven't used it for this.
@@wayneknetter I haven't made any myself, but i have looked at making it before. The ingredients it found used most was denatured alcohol, shellac and boiled linseed oil. either 1:1:1 ratio or 1part alcohol:3 parts shellac : 2 parts BLO. I have linked a video below which i watched when i was researching ruclips.net/video/8PFmrJRpV8M/видео.html Hope this helps and is what you are looking for.
As far as I know, the addition of the bees wax means it won't spontaneously combust as it no longer acts as a curing oil with the wax present. As i have not tested this and don't know this for sure i take the same care i do with raw linseed oil when disposing of the rags by letting them dry before dumping.
Im not sure, i have never used candle wax. I have always used bees wax. I believe most candles are paraffin wax, i have never seen anyone use it in a paste wax. Hope this helps. When i get the time i will try some and see what happens to try and get a better answer for you.
I was referring to linseed oil being flammable, and being heated over an open flame. I might not have made that clear enough, hope this clears that up. There is no problem heating the linseed oil and bees wax together, just don't overheat the linseed oil or splash it on the flame.
Wecome to the confusion that is wood finishing. There are a million recipes and they mostly work fine. I now avoid commercial products, most of which contain a small amount of oil or wax or scellac etc thinned down with some sort of solvent which evaporates into the air we breath. Hardening oil like tung or linseed oil are what seals the wood. Whether the wax is mixed in or applied after i don't know. In fact i don't know much at all. Floor finish is totally out of my experience. I do think some sort of oil finish and buffing with a wax might be what i would try. Good luck keep experimenting. Geoff.... Ulverstone
@@carolmoore3706 Im not sure as i have made it using coconut oil. I am planning to make a video comparing different oils used soon hopefully, so i may have an answer for you after that
Awesome can’t wait to see the video from what I heard read on the internet some say yes and others say no. I also read that the fractionated coconut oil is better as it penetrates the wood better than that harder substance that you could cook with some I am happy to see what you come up with as I’m in two minds about using it
Hi, I've never made paste wax with those combinations of oils before, so i can't recommend it but it should still work. I wasn't sure what indian clubs were so i googled them, as long as they're wooden i don't see why it wouldn't be fine for them.
I would ditch the open flame stove and grab a $40 induction thingy form Kmart or Hardly Normal. That's what I have been using since I had one of those butane cans go feral and nearly burn my shed down🤣 With my recipe, (basically the same as yours), I add a teaspoon of Caranuba wax to make a hard wax version as well.
i don't full understand, but got 1Kg or raw beeswax for about $40 AUD. The name of the oil is raw linseed oil, however you can also use boiled linseed oil. I prefer raw linseed. Hope this helps
Johnson's has discontinued its paste wax as they seem to be more focused on profit with their Minwax/which has no wax in it. They will go down the toilet with this decision. Will this product be as good as Johnson's paste wax?
As i have never used Johnson's paste wax i am not sure if its as good as it. However it does leave a nice smooth surface after applying it. Wood by Wright or Paul Sellers, 2 other youtubers i believe both of them have used Johnson's paste wax and have made either own, they maybe in a better situation to answer your question.
Hello... From Malaysia.... Can I use beeswax for a tabletop cutting board I'm making? Will it provide some degree of waterproofing? I was thinking to soak the wood in mineral oil, then after a few days and coats, cover in several thin coats of beeswax. Any thoughts?
Bees wax will provide a degree of waterproofing. It won't be the most durable, however I've done the same on chopping boards before and i reapply some more paste wax every 6 months or when ever needed
I can't find linseed oil to save my life so I made it with olive oil. I hope my 1920s curbside treasure dining table likes it, it needs something to feed it NOW before it splits.😬🤞 oh and i added a few drops of eucalyptus oil too, smells so good with my raw beeswax🤌
I've never made it with olive oil hopefully it turns out great, and I'm sure it will help rehydrate the timber. If you're in Australia Bunnings has raw linseed oil marketed as timber oil raw concentrate made by DIGGERS
@@AussieWoodshed I actually saw that one! But didn't know it was linseed oil and I've been trying to avoid buying stuff with other additives in it so I avoided it! Anyway I didn't wax the table yet because I still can't decide if it needs a more heavy duty finish or what to do, but I gave it an oil with the oilve oil and it feels and looks so nice.
@@AussieWoodshed Thanks a lot for replying. ☺ If I put beeswax paste on it now would I still be able to do like a marine poly/danish oil coat later if I decide to? Something more heavy duty since it's gonna be a dinner table/worktable and get a lot of use. Or is there a finish you would reccomend? Appreciate your help, you seem to know what you're doing.
@@boop7313 It is possible to remove paste wax after it has been applied, usually something like mineral spirit or naphtha are the 2 recommend products to do this, however I've never attempted that myself but have seen other recommend those 2 products. Generally most people will recommend some sort of poly for a hard wearing durable surface such as a dining table. I don't have much experience with poly's as i tend to use natural products where possible. There are lot of youtubers are using hard wax oil finishes as they usually all nature are easy to apply and look great. The hard wax oil finishes isn't as durable as poly's but are easy to repair when damaged with a simple quick sand and then reapplying. I have some experience with a hard wax oil sample pot i got from Bunnings a few years ago (not sure if they still sell it) which I've used a few times, it really is easy to use. The main 3 finishes i use are raw linseed oil (to avoid chemical driers), paste wax and shellac. I would suggest shellac but its usually not recommend for a dining table as its not very durable when heavily used where its possibly exposed to heat and/or alcohol. I have heard some mentions of shellac with a hardener in it which can prevent heat and alcohol spill causing issues, but I'm not sure what is used for this hardener (some sort of epoxy or poly i suspect) and i have not used it. So after all of that i believe the 2 most common finishes are either a ploy of some kind or a hard wax oil. I'm sure if you ask 100 woodworkers you could end up with 100 different answer with their own mixture to use as a finish. If it was me i'd just stick to a natural finish and deal with the downsides of whatever i used. Hope this helps
Easiest way to flake up the beeswax is to place it on you bench hook and shave it off using a 25 or 35mm chisel. Much quicker, safer, gives more control, and finer flakes
In the opening lines of your video you said, "So the first process in making the beeswax we need to chop up this beeswax." What you should have said is, "To make the paste wax we need to chop up this beeswax." Only bees can make beeswax!
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
I know I’m late to the party but I’m going with this guy
I really appreciate the time you take to post these videos.
I am in the early stages of reverting from power tools towards traditional hand tools and you have been helping me along this journey. Great stuff 👍
My pleasure glad to help. Enjoy your transition to hand tools
It's all so easy isn't it.
Back to basics ,no fancy expensive products.
I bought a litre of pure tung oil from Bunnings for 70 bucks. I use it straight or diluted with turps . It gives me a wonderful finish. I have beeswax and will make some paste wax as your recipe but not linseed oil.
Geoff from Tasmania
Yes, it is definitely easy to make and gives a great finish.
Geoff - hi, I'm in Tassie too. Thought I'd ask you if you know of a good paste wax for wooden floors. I just need to sand mine, and want to apply something that will be easy to sweep or vacuum, and wash. Do you know if Gilly's Floor Polish is good, or is it best used with something else? Lots of questions but keen to avoid varnish. My floorboards were laid in 1911, so maybe quite dry and hard.
@@jogrant38512 parts turpentine to 1 part melted beeswax.
When it cools, it'll solidify into a varnish.
@@Madonnalitta1 Thank you!! 🙂
Just started using paste wax as my main finish. Mine is based on mineral oil. Definitely my favourite finish. Super easy to apply, no chemical smell, soft on hands. You cant mess it up. Easilly beats youtubes favourite danish oil.
Thanks for sharing. I completely agree, paste wax is a great finish.
Wow i just bought a can of Danish oil the other day, need to try making paste wax
I've seen it made with a bit of coconut oil instead of linseed. I add orange essential oil to mine and it smells amazing. I'm going to try it today with beeswax, coconut oil, cocoa butter and orange essential oil. Hope it works!
Can't wait to try this out. Might even do a mineral oil version for cutting boards... Thanks for the lesson and keep up the good work!
Glad you got some value out of the video. I have never done a mineral oil version, would love to know how it turns out. Also if you check out the Katz- Moses RUclips link in the description he makes a paste wax using mineral oil, if that helps. Thanks for watching
I use a very similar method, except I do the mixture in a glass jam pot and I double boil it. I simply put water in a pot, and the linseed oil/wax mixture in a jam pot in the water. I use a small electrical stove. I think it is very safe since there is no flame, and the water can't possibly get hot enough to ignite the mixture. It takes a while to melt (and to cool back down), but that's OK. I also use raw linseed oil, it is much more common here and I don't think the drying times are too bad. I love how it feels and looks on wooden tool handles, you get a really nice patina IMO.
Your method does sound safer than mine, might have to improve my setup. I agree the drying time of raw linseed is not too bad and i also like the patina it produces. Thanks for the comment.
What would be the benefit of double boiling? I would do it, but I like to understand why.
Great lesson! Fortunately, I kept a couple of beehive wax beds from my beekeeper adventures. Thanks and greetings from Brazil to the beautiful Aussie outback!
@@igornapoleao4120 Thanks, definitely a win already having the bees wax
Thank you very much for a wonderful video on making paste wax. You certainly save us a lot of money.
My pleasure, glad i could help
I just ordered paste wax on Amazon literally a few hours ago and then saw this afterwards 😂 thank you for the info ❤
Unlucky on the timing. Glad the video was useful though
That’s the great part of YT it will last forever. God bless
That is true, thanks
For me there is nothing that compares to the touch of wax finish. I have depended on Johnson’s paste wax on wood and metal tools, sliding parts until they discontinued it. I used poly on things that i cant re-apply wax to later, such as complicated items or going to other people. Thank you so much for the recipe! Probably healthier than Johnsons too. Cheers mate!
It my pleasure to share it, i use this paste wax for a lot of tasks, from a main finish, top coat finish over film finishes, and also to help prevent rust on metal tools its pretty useful stuff. Enjoy making your own.
Can I please ask if you know of a good paste wax recipe that is an alternative to Johnsons?
Great video, clearly explained :) Thank you!
@@DeltaWolf2451 Thanks for watching
Thanks mate - that was great. You could also use a portable single induction stove (Aldi has them occasionally, and I think IKEA has one) instead of the open flame while heating flammable liquids. I know you said you take extreme care - made me a bit twitchy. Anyway. I’m going to use your recipe - thanks!
You're not the first person to mention using an induction cooker, i will look into it and thanks for suggesting where to buy them.
Hope you enjoy the paste wax!
Thanks for that. I added drops of cinnamon oil for a light aroma.
I don't mind the smell of linseed oil, but adding scented oils is a great idea if you don't like the smell of it.
Had no idea how that was made, thanks!
My pleasure, glad you enjoyed the video
Am new here but thanks for the update and I miss alot to understand what you mix with candle
I mixed Linseed oil with the bees wax (not candle wax, which tends to be paraffin wax) 1 part wax to 4 parts linseed oil
Gave this a go this weekend. Cheers mate take care
Thanks. How did it go?
I use beeswax, mineral oil, and coconut oil, works great and has a nice pong, great for cutting boards etc. I also use a double boiler, slow cooker so no naked flame and cheap from Kmart. Cheers from Perth
Interesting mix, the slow cooker is a good idea. Thanks for sharing
@@AussieWoodshed It's sold in shops as Walrus oil. So I had a go at it, works well. Cheers
@@darrylbuckett5380 ahh right, i have seen walrus oil at Timbecon. Thanks again
@@AussieWoodshed That's where I first saw it. Cheers
@@darrylbuckett5380 What ratio do you use mate? 1/3 of each beeswax,mineral and coconut oils?
Nice work, I'll try it myself
Thanks, let me know how it turns out
I've got a few blocks of beeswax and a bottle of BLO from Bunnings sitting in the garage for ages now. Got to get off my bum and start making some paste wax!
Its great to make your own finish, and even better its really easy
I did this but changed it up a bit. Ratio was 10% wax & 5% d-limonene... it ended up a quite firm paste. Wax-wise it was 50/50 beeswax and carnuaba. Bit more work because the mix is a bit stiff.
@@sajbuckby Sounds like and interesting mixture, thanks for sharing it.
Exactly how I do it. Thanks for sharing and confirming I'm not doing it wrong 😊😂😂
My pleasure
Can this act as a final finish on wood if I want it natural?
@@lorv8628 Yes, you can 100% use this as a final natural finish.
Thanks mate first well explained video, can I use this wax on leather jacket ?
I would like to say yes, but since i have never used it on a leather jacket i can't recommend it. You could maybe try it on a small hidden spot first?
Fantastic, going to make this myself this weekend!
Already have the supplies needed so why not?
Thanks!
Great! Glad you like the video. I can't think i reason not to, if you already have the supplies.
The exact type of paste wax I was looking for. Many people just use minearal oil, but the most natural and healthy one is raw linseed oil for sure.
However you could heat the oil before using it for wood, to make a kind of boiled linseed oil without chemicals, which fastens the drying process (Woodbywright made a video about it)
Thanks Durman, the main reason i made this video was because i wanted to show the most natural version i could. You're exactly right about the heating of the oil, it was the traditional way it was made before chemical driers were created. I too have seen woodbywrights video and wish to try it for myself at some point.
Thanks for the comment, enjoy your all natural paste wax.
Thank you abbasduman6963 and AussieWoodshed. I'm going to be trying warming the beeswax and cold-pressed (not boiled) linseed oil as shown, but then use a syringe to suction the warm fluid and apply it quickly onto the wood before it becomes paste. Main reason isn't drying time but because I think there will be more penetration that way.
@@passerby6168Try it out ;)
I'd still boil the linseed oil before, as I think it will be more effective, but let us know your results! I'd love to know how it turns out
@@passerby6168 Yes definitely keen to hear how it turns out
Hey mate I’ve got all products to make my own wax , but I see in these comments that a few people have recommended Tung oil , I can go get some Tung oil but if your recommendation is still linseed ide rather use linseed , I don’t mind the smell of it at all . I’m guessing that’s why these guys want Tung oil for a different smell maybe 🤔. Let me know cheers great vid I subbed so I can learn more from ya , I’m in tweed heads 👍
@@charliemaddock3459 Thanks for the question, i know some people like using Tung Oil, but personally I still use and like linseed oil for paste wax.
@@AussieWoodshed I made the batch and I added about 15 ml of quality sandlewood oil burner oil to an 80 gram batch by weight and it smells amazing 👌
Hi! Thanks for a great video! Is this safe to use on cutting boards and other things that come in direct contact with food and drinks? I’m a novice to woodworking and trying to find something to use on a wooden beer mug and some other things I’ve made, I would really appreciate any advice☺️ Please regard that English is my second language and I’m from Scandinavia so we might not have the same brands here as you do elsewhere in the world, so a little extra explanation about certain products is appreciated as well, thank you in advance and have a nice day!😊
Sorry it's taken so long for me to respond. I am planning to release a video next week to answer this question along with a few others as it's going to be easy for me to show you rather than explain it.
@@AussieWoodshed Oh that’s amazing! Thank you, I will click the bell so I won’t miss it then, much appreciated!😄
The video answering your question and a few others has just gone live found here ruclips.net/video/Zuij1D3cKVc/видео.html
@@AussieWoodshed oh thank you so much! Perfect timing since I’m going to have some free time in the “workshop” (not sure it’s the right word?😅) tomorrow!😁
@@nea.m5405 'workshop' is the right word i think
Greetings, I build folk instruments and want to use a more natural polish on my creations. does the oil over power the beeswax in odor?
It does still smell like linseed oil, but the smell is not as strong.
Personally i haven't really noticed the smell when I've used it on items, but that may be because i am used to the smell.
Hi, thank you so much❣️
Suppose, it'll never go rancit as it has the beeswax in it?
How often do you have too re-apply it? Is it usable on ordinary normal used kitchen utensils too?
Keep up the good work👍💝🤩
Is it usable for leather too?
Glad you liked the video.
Linseed oil doesn't tend to go racid so with the wax i have never had it go rancid. You re-apply it when the work starts to look a bit dry or rough if you like your work to feel smooth to the touch. I have only used it on wooden chopping boards, but never on utensils, but i suspect it should be fine. I have also never used it on leather, not sure if Linseed oil paste wax oil is a good idea on leather as linseed oil is a polymerizing oil. I would suggest some research first.
Hope this helps
Can i use any other carrier oil? Here in Greece we have a lot of olive oil for example
Generally for paste wax linseed oil or mineral oil is used due to it being stable and not going bad.
My understanding is that olive oil would go rancid, but i have not made it using olive oil so i can't say for sure. I have heard others say it goes rancid but once again i can't confirm this.
Maybe i should do a video on testing other common oils?
@@AussieWoodshed ok thanks a lot
Does anyone know if you can use paste wax on cane furniture? I plan to use paste wax to make some antiquing wax. Thankyou to anyone in advance.
I've never used paste was on cane furniture, but i don't see it being a problem. You could try it on a small hidden part to try first, if no on else has tried it.
It can also use for plaster handmade product?❤
I don't think it would be great for plaster, but i haven't tried it
Can we use this wax over chalkpaint?
@@kiranmajid9577 I have never used it over chalk paint but have over milk paint and it was fine.
I believe it would be fine as the 2 paints are similar but as i haven't tried it i can't say yes for sure. It may be best to do a trial first to know for sure.
An idea would to heat upt the mix in a pot filled with water on low heat. You don't need boiling water as bee's wax melts at way cooler temperature. But it's still hot, though.
Yes, that is probably the best solution and safer, essentially a double boiler i think it is called. Thanks for the suggestion.
Can you tell me the ingredients used to make this wex?
Natural bees wax & raw linseed is what i used
Another word to look for is cold-pressed (linseed oil). Cold-pressed means it hasn't been boiled (to which they add chemicals) and is actually raw. Different parts of the world have different terms for the same thing.
Can this finish be applied to a stained surface without messing up the color?
I haven't used this paste wax directly on a stain, so I don't know. I don't think it would. I could do some tests and get back to you, but it could vary between stain brands also. But right now i won't recommend it since i haven't used it for this.
would you use this on the paint finish of a auto?
I have never used it on car paint, and i don't know what effect it might have, so i have to say no.
Would Danish oil work instead Of linseed oil?
I haven't used danish oil to make this, but the 2 oils should be very similar so it should work fine. But i can't say for sure
what would you add to wax to make a grip polish for bowls?
Is grip polish the same as friction polish?
@@AussieWoodshed I would say yes, so what are you thinking?
@@wayneknetter I haven't made any myself, but i have looked at making it before.
The ingredients it found used most was denatured alcohol, shellac and boiled linseed oil. either 1:1:1 ratio or 1part alcohol:3 parts shellac : 2 parts BLO.
I have linked a video below which i watched when i was researching ruclips.net/video/8PFmrJRpV8M/видео.html
Hope this helps and is what you are looking for.
I bet i could use this on my bike chain too to lube without grabbing hold of dirt
Maybe, i hadn't considered that
Can it be used for car body shining?
I've never used it for that so i can't give you an answer.
Hi! Is there a risk for selfignition of the polish?
As far as I know, the addition of the bees wax means it won't spontaneously combust as it no longer acts as a curing oil with the wax present.
As i have not tested this and don't know this for sure i take the same care i do with raw linseed oil when disposing of the rags by letting them dry before dumping.
Also, thankyou for your videos.
My pleasure
Can you use candle wax
Im not sure, i have never used candle wax. I have always used bees wax. I believe most candles are paraffin wax, i have never seen anyone use it in a paste wax. Hope this helps.
When i get the time i will try some and see what happens to try and get a better answer for you.
@@AussieWoodshed thank you
you said it may be dangerous placing the bees wax at the same time with the oil... why? 🤔
I was referring to linseed oil being flammable, and being heated over an open flame. I might not have made that clear enough, hope this clears that up. There is no problem heating the linseed oil and bees wax together, just don't overheat the linseed oil or splash it on the flame.
Wecome to the confusion that is wood finishing. There are a million recipes and they mostly work fine.
I now avoid commercial products, most of which contain a small amount of oil or wax or scellac etc thinned down with some sort of solvent which evaporates into the air we breath.
Hardening oil like tung or linseed oil are what seals the wood. Whether the wax is mixed in or applied after i don't know. In fact i don't know much at all.
Floor finish is totally out of my experience. I do think some sort of oil finish and buffing with a wax might be what i would try. Good luck keep experimenting.
Geoff.... Ulverstone
It's just a very basic paste wax it's not that confusing, or shouldn't be.
Would this work with coconut oil by any chance
@@carolmoore3706 Im not sure as i have made it using coconut oil. I am planning to make a video comparing different oils used soon hopefully, so i may have an answer for you after that
Awesome can’t wait to see the video from what I heard read on the internet some say yes and others say no.
I also read that the fractionated coconut oil is better as it penetrates the wood better than that harder substance that you could cook with some I am happy to see what you come up with as I’m in two minds about using it
Superb, now can you make some sanding sealer please..?
Just released a video on sanding sealer. ruclips.net/video/fz2jhsRQ7jE/видео.html
can i make this paste wax with neem oil+castor oil+mustard oil ? can i apply this to indian clubs
Hi, I've never made paste wax with those combinations of oils before, so i can't recommend it but it should still work. I wasn't sure what indian clubs were so i googled them, as long as they're wooden i don't see why it wouldn't be fine for them.
@@AussieWoodshed thank you
I always thought that terpentine was part of it ? I will research a bit more
Some recipes might, but the one i use here is a standard base recipe, and since it works so well i have stayed with it
Wait, beard balm too!
Not sure about that one, maybe
I would ditch the open flame stove and grab a $40 induction thingy form Kmart or Hardly Normal. That's what I have been using since I had one of those butane cans go feral and nearly burn my shed down🤣 With my recipe, (basically the same as yours), I add a teaspoon of Caranuba wax to make a hard wax version as well.
Thanks for the stove suggestion, I'll look into it.
Use coconut oil... that way you can use it on your body. I made a pot yesterday. Wow!
Interesting adaptation, but would not be suitable for a woodworking finish.
Hi could i add a pigment to this wax?
I'm not sure, you maybe able to, however i have never done it.
Sir How Price bease waxe and How are simple name is oil.
i don't full understand, but got 1Kg or raw beeswax for about $40 AUD. The name of the oil is raw linseed oil, however you can also use boiled linseed oil. I prefer raw linseed. Hope this helps
1 to 4 . I
1 part Beeswax. Tung oil. Linseed oil dries fast then Tung oil. But Tung oil I like better. Tung oil is expensive.
@@YanniTheSpartan Thank for sharing your mixture
Use Tung Oil.
I prefer linseed oil and tried tung oil and still prefer linseed oil
Where do you get your bees wax from? Asking as an Aussie
I got it from a website called Restorers Choice based in NSW. The link is restorerschoice.com.au/shop/wax/pure-australian-beeswax-100-natural-1kg
Can this wax be used on cars?
I'm not sure, i have never used it on a car and am unsure if it would affect the paintwork.
Johnson's has discontinued its paste wax as they seem to be more focused on profit with their Minwax/which has no wax in it. They will go down the toilet with this decision. Will this product be as good as Johnson's paste wax?
As i have never used Johnson's paste wax i am not sure if its as good as it. However it does leave a nice smooth surface after applying it.
Wood by Wright or Paul Sellers, 2 other youtubers i believe both of them have used Johnson's paste wax and have made either own, they maybe in a better situation to answer your question.
@@AussieWoodshed Roger that and Thanks for the recommendation.
Hello...
From Malaysia....
Can I use beeswax for a tabletop cutting board I'm making?
Will it provide some degree of waterproofing?
I was thinking to soak the wood in mineral oil, then after a few days and coats, cover in several thin coats of beeswax.
Any thoughts?
Bees wax will provide a degree of waterproofing. It won't be the most durable, however I've done the same on chopping boards before and i reapply some more paste wax every 6 months or when ever needed
@@AussieWoodshed Thank you for your response.
nice
Thankyou
🙂🙂
Thanks
Chicago guy is doing this. Way far away
I can't find linseed oil to save my life so I made it with olive oil. I hope my 1920s curbside treasure dining table likes it, it needs something to feed it NOW before it splits.😬🤞 oh and i added a few drops of eucalyptus oil too, smells so good with my raw beeswax🤌
I've never made it with olive oil hopefully it turns out great, and I'm sure it will help rehydrate the timber.
If you're in Australia Bunnings has raw linseed oil marketed as timber oil raw concentrate made by DIGGERS
@@AussieWoodshed I actually saw that one! But didn't know it was linseed oil and I've been trying to avoid buying stuff with other additives in it so I avoided it! Anyway I didn't wax the table yet because I still can't decide if it needs a more heavy duty finish or what to do, but I gave it an oil with the oilve oil and it feels and looks so nice.
@@AussieWoodshed Thanks a lot for replying. ☺ If I put beeswax paste on it now would I still be able to do like a marine poly/danish oil coat later if I decide to? Something more heavy duty since it's gonna be a dinner table/worktable and get a lot of use. Or is there a finish you would reccomend? Appreciate your help, you seem to know what you're doing.
@@boop7313 It is possible to remove paste wax after it has been applied, usually something like mineral spirit or naphtha are the 2 recommend products to do this, however I've never attempted that myself but have seen other recommend those 2 products.
Generally most people will recommend some sort of poly for a hard wearing durable surface such as a dining table. I don't have much experience with poly's as i tend to use natural products where possible.
There are lot of youtubers are using hard wax oil finishes as they usually all nature are easy to apply and look great. The hard wax oil finishes isn't as durable as poly's but are easy to repair when damaged with a simple quick sand and then reapplying. I have some experience with a hard wax oil sample pot i got from Bunnings a few years ago (not sure if they still sell it) which I've used a few times, it really is easy to use.
The main 3 finishes i use are raw linseed oil (to avoid chemical driers), paste wax and shellac. I would suggest shellac but its usually not recommend for a dining table as its not very durable when heavily used where its possibly exposed to heat and/or alcohol. I have heard some mentions of shellac with a hardener in it which can prevent heat and alcohol spill causing issues, but I'm not sure what is used for this hardener (some sort of epoxy or poly i suspect) and i have not used it.
So after all of that i believe the 2 most common finishes are either a ploy of some kind or a hard wax oil. I'm sure if you ask 100 woodworkers you could end up with 100 different answer with their own mixture to use as a finish. If it was me i'd just stick to a natural finish and deal with the downsides of whatever i used.
Hope this helps
Try an art supply store for linseed oil
And may I say I love the Ausies. Shite life or limb
Easiest way to flake up the beeswax is to place it on you bench hook and shave it off using a 25 or 35mm chisel. Much quicker, safer, gives more control, and finer flakes
Thanks for the tip, i will try it next time
straya
In the opening lines of your video you said, "So the first process in making the beeswax we need to chop up this beeswax." What you should have said is, "To make the paste wax we need to chop up this beeswax." Only bees can make beeswax!
Nice pickup 😄
Great. ABO & Like