EVERY 3D Printer I've Used Tier List
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2023
- I was recently asked by someone I worked with what 3D printer they should get. This discussion got me thinking about every printer I have used over the years. Today I look back on all the printers I have used and rank them based on my experience and if I would or would not buy them again.
Наука
My first printer was a CR-10. After a bit of upgrading i made a big step towards a v-core 3 500. It teached me a lot about wiring and proper assembly in general. The ability to print giant flawless parts at 500mm/s and 50mm³/s flowrate is awesome, but it required a lot of time and studying. My next goal is probably a Annex K2.
Thanks for the overview of all these printers. I have been considering a Bambu X1C. Videos like yours have helped me make that decision.
Honest rundown from a user perspective who doesn’t want to fix manufactures flaws.
I think this type of review or rundown is best for new users getting into hobby.
As a newbie of two weeks, I'm finding the P1S to be amazing and just works. The fact that you can order one online, receive it next day or buy in stores and you just plug it in and go and the quality and speed are great is huge. It's like buying and using any other kind of office printer and it makes 3d printing much easier and accessible to people that are new or don't want to spend time modding to get consistently good prints. My friends and family are blown away with some of the stuff I've printed and some of them have been 3d printing for years.
Well wait til you have issues. I went with the hype and kinda regret it now. Just make sure you do some research and be prepared. And be sure to join groups. I’m honestly happier with my k1 over the Bambu. Only thing that’s really great is the ams
@@lLoneRoninl why? What problems have you had?
If the issue is ringing slow the eff down on tall linear prints. Apparently some software and network bugs are the other issues being seen. I'm on a k1 max for 300mm cube volume. Love it to death its now the main work horse. Creality customer service blows and instructions tend to be unclear at best. But the k1 line has largely just worked like bambu. I just wish they'd make better use of the lidar as the 10 minute calibration can be a bit obnoxious, and only checking the first layer is meh. Wish we could dial it in to check every few layers where problems actually start. It has its uses its just under utilized.
Anything that's not bambu ain't it
@@TheFreestyleStorm You're highly unintelligent.
As a complete newbie who's thinking about getting into 3D printing you have my curiosity and my attention.
The Elegoo Neptune 3 and up, series of FDM printers, are really good.
I have the FLSUN Q5 great printer. Easy set up for newbies. I'm thinking of upgrading to the 400 or whatever their latest and greatest is. But haven't yet since the Q5 still works great for what I do. Mostly play.
Bambu. They are worth the hype.
Thank you for the suggestions guys, i'll look into these.
same, I have 100% anxiety about if I buy a bad printer
I have a Saturn not a Jupiter, but one thing that I've always envied about the Jupiter? It uses a door. When you're a bit space constrained (i.e., you have too many hobbies for your hobby room), it can be a real bummer dealing with finding space for a resin printer given that most of them have a removable top that has to clear the gantry. This means that while the printer may only be 20" tall, it needs about the same amount of height above it just to remove the top. I have seen some users create doors for the Saturn and Saturn 2, which has been a really tempting idea.
Thank you so much, I've been looking at upgrading from my first printer, maybe even looking at SLA. You've given me lots of ideas!
Most of Anet's issues were from back in the day, but they are nothing special now.
For the ender 7 it was really a stepping stone for them to make their new K1 printer that is more in line with the bamboo. Time will tell if it's any good.
Prusa is totally solid, and support for the US market is now done in the US.
I have spent some time with the Formlabs Form 3, while it is expensive I really like it. Resins auto fill mid print, material changing is really easy (with extra trays) and the resin smell is almost non existent. The software is super basic but works great (closed ecosystem) and we have not yet had an issue with it, other than not buying the wash and cure stations with the printer.
I have bought a Prusa MK3+ as my first printer what was a great experience. Expensive but good customer service, you learn a lot and now the printer went through 8900m of fillament with a print time of 1100days and it still runs without much maintenance. Now I also have a snapmaker Artisan which is also expensive but great but the Prusa will stay in use aswell.
I have been looking really hard at picking up a Bamboo P1S and this video pretty much sealed the deal for me.
@@gregferguson7737 I did end up picking up a P1S and so far it has been absolutely phenomenal. Compared to my old printer the quality and speed are an order of magnitude better. It has been so nice to have a machine that just works flawlessly pretty much every time.
The Anet A8 was my first. Learned a lot from scratch. After a little modding it was almost as good as a Prusa. Since I was busy with the firmware, it was not such a big problem for me to also install a touch sensor.
Today the BambuLab is actually an unrestricted recommendation. Especially also finally Multicolour easy to print.
Anet A8 was also my first. At some point, you get tired of tinkering and just want something that "just works" though. I'm seriously considering the P1S + AMS.
@@androiduberalles Get the P1S if you are tired of tinkering, I got the X1C and absolutely love it. At one point 3D printing became mainly a tool for me and not a hobby on it's own so the tinkering got a bit tiresome.
I initially started with the Anet A8 too, built it into an AM8 which I still have. Moved up through some Creality machines and eventually went up to the X1C, I will probably buy one or two P1S's soon as well since I need higher production volume.
The Bambu was the first printer I ever owned that just worked 100% out of the box, had it for a few months now with 500 hours of print time and still no adjustments or repairs. All it's ''needed'' is a quick wipe down of the carbon rods and greasing the Z screw, the instructions tell you how often you should do those things to minimize wear.
The whole ecosystem with Bambu Studio and Bambu Handy is also super nice.
@@androiduberalles I started on an ender 3 pro which I did a lot of modifications to. I just got an X1C plus AMS, it is so different. Prints just work, I have had no print failures yet and even managed a 15 % scale benchy with the 0.2 mm nozzle that turned out pretty perfect and I think with changing some settings like changing the wall mode to arachne it could go even lower. It is much faster too and the AMS is great. Using the AMS and Bambu filament with the RFID tags is good but not required and they have a good choice of filament, it seems high quality too.
My ender 3 pro is now going to be sort of a hobby or tinkering printer whereas the X1C will be my main printer. The X1C can print pretty much any filament a hobbyist can afford or justify, it will print everything up to 300 C and apparently the X1C chamber can get up to 60 C, beyond 300 C you are into the realm of PEI, PEAK, etc and those are very expensive, a couple of rolls would potentially cost as much as an X1C.
The P1S will be a good choice although from what I have read the X1C is better if you want to print unusual or higher temp plastics, like the carbon fibre nylons or polycarbonate although the P1S should be able to print most of those too. For most filaments the lidar is unnecessary but could be useful if printing any unusual or foaming filament.
the Anet A8 is a piece of shit tbh..ive had it for 7 years now, the bed leveling and the hotend block and nozzle drove me insane
While Anet A8 is trash, it was introduction to 3D printing for us poor folks, it was perfect, cheap 1st printer to learn alot about 3D printing and mainteance of our printers, it has a special place in 3D printing history.
I started with an Anycubic i3 which was recommended to me by a friend who was happy with it. It took me weeks to get the sample owl printed nicely and never got it to work reliably even after replacing and upgrading almost every part on the printer.
Next were two JGAurora A5s these printed ok, but they are very slow and printing bigger objects on the large 30x30cm bed would take days.
Then I got the the Prusa MK3 as a kit (highly recommend building your own) and later upgraded it to MK3+ and MK3S+. The direct drive makes a huge difference. It still prints very reliably, but I am looking forward to the upgrade kit to make it a MK4. The MMU2 option I added was a disaster and ruined the printing experience... so I removed the MMU2 again.
For small print jobs I used the Prusa Mini, which is ok for quick prototyping and when the MK3 was busy printing. The PFTE tubes in the hot end are a bit tricky, as they seem to change length over time resulting in frequent head clogs. Replacing the tube is fairly easy and done in a few minutes, but the length of the tube has to be perfect. I prefer direct drive over Bowden but that is just not a feasible option on a small printer like the Mini.
I also have the Prusa SL1s resin printer and have mixed results with it - sometimes the prints are amazing and sometimes they are bent and distorted
I often have to produce higher number of parts and therefore need a fast reliable printer capable of printing Nylon-Carbon Fiber. I purchased the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon combo. I hardly ever have a bad print with it even with PAHT-CF and the results are near perfect when using properly dried filaments. Meanwhile there are two X1C and one P1P running in my workshop and am very happy with them.
Anycubic i3 Mega - F Tier
JG Aurora A5 - D Tier
Prusa MK3S - A Tier (may become S Tier with the MK4 upgrade)
Prusa Mini - B Tier
Prusa SL1S - C Tier
Bambu Labs X1C combo - S Tier
Bambu Labs P1P - S Tier
Lol really the owl . You got a bad one. It was my first printer and the owl was the simple print. Sold it to my brotger and still its printing. Faulty one or user error.
Most compelling Tier List I've seen from any youtuber in years. Nice!
I have a Neptune 2s that I got new on sale for like $120, it’s been an awesome printer, I’ve never had any problems with it. I haven’t had to relevel the bed for several months and I rarely have prints fail. It’s a great entry level printer, it was my first fdm printer. I would definitely recommend the Neptune line of printers
Only one printer on the list that i've used, the fortus 250mc. Also at the office back in 2014. This machine was the second 3d printer i ever used. About one year later, i got my first printer.
I think it's very important to know the difference between industrial machines and consumer products.
My first and one I still use, printing behind at this moment is a Ender 3 v2 from Creality. Jeyers firmware upgrade. Added second Z axis motor. Printed a new Briss Fang head for it and added LEDs to it. Added the silent fans and CR touch. I’ve put a few hundred into it and a lot of work and it’s pretty awesome. Have used for years. That being said it was a lot of work and most people won’t want to go through it and I couldn’t blame them but it does work great with the Jeyers firmware. All my help was from RUclipsrs getting it set up.
What slicer do you use? I also upgraded the dual z Axis and the sprite extruder upgrade but I'm still a bit disappointed in the tops of my prints sides and shit are normally good
@@arcanehavok3388 I’ve been using Cura. Once you slice you can tab over and there’s a slider to view individual layers or set stops to stop on layers and change filament color if you want. My older laptop didn’t have a video card fast enough to download the latest update for Cura.
This is so relevant to me. Im planning on gifting myself a 3d printer this coming holidays. thank you for this video.
My first 3D printer was the Anet A8. Looking back on it, I feel fortunate that I didn't burn my house down.
lol
My first half-dozen printers were A8's. I made the mistake of mentioning to my family I wanted a 3D printer and it seems like everyone bought an A8 for me.
I am STILL running two of them because they just won't quit turning out decent prints.
I feel kind of fortunate. What I've learned from making them safe(r) and reliable has served me well.
The mk2 anet he shows in the video was the remake with safety checks in the firmware and better design on the board that had better current handling.
People talk a lot of smack about the A8v1, and for good reason, but it had rigid linear bearings, repeatable kinematics and reasonable performance for the price. That's the benefit, I guess, of duplicating the Prusa but with cheaper materials.
im looking at qidi max 3 or the p1s or k1 max or 5m pro (unsure on BL with their CS and 1sdt party parts only and some sketch cloud stuff 9can print lan)
My office's first printer was the Formlabs Form 2. While the resin was pricey, it gave amazing prints and it didn't smell too much. It was always evolving, so the resins and tank were updated every 6 to 12 months. The only downside was the build volume, with was in line with most other resin printers on the market. This has been fixed with the Form 3L, which has a build volume of 335mm x 200mm x 300mm.
Nah, the downside is the cost of the resin, which is about 5x the price of commodity resin. Must have been nice to not have to pay for it at your office!
@ShihanQu We used both Formlab's resin and open source resins. They have an open system that allows you to use any resin you want. Given the specs of the final parts, the Formlabs resin was a better investment for us as we didn't have the breakage nor the higher support requirements than the available open source resins. The cured prints from the Formlabs engineering resins were much stronger, more ductile, and had a better finish. If this were a home hobby, your labor has no value. For a business, labor is the most expensive item.
@@jameslmorehead You're right, labor is the most expensive item, which is also why I'm swapping out my Form 2 for an Elegoo saturn 3. We can pack that build plate and things print 4x faster with an lcd rather than a laser and galvo. Just happens to be an added benefit that resins are 4x cheaper out of Formlabs' walled garden. No discernable difference in surface quality or dimensionional accuracy. The only thing formlabs sla has going for it is strength, so I'll still print certain high wear prototypes on Form. But Siraya tech engineering resin is no less than 80% as strong as PLA, which is plenty strong for 95% of all my prints.
the ender 7 issue sounds like the mapping for the settings saved in eeprom changed between versions and it tried to load random values as motor step/mm. you could just change the steps/mm and save to eeprom and it should work fine. or if it has the "load default settings" option, use that and then save to eeprom, it should fix things.
My thoughts as well, time to print a calibration cube and adjust it accordingly as described above.
Just build your own firmware so you don't get surprised by some other setting changing... don't bother waiting for the manufacturer to make a build with the features you want
The engineering classroom at my school has a load of various Makerbot 3D printers, as well as 4 FLSUN Super Racers. I'm currently in the middle of printing an air raid siren with the Super Racer, of which the circular bed makes perfect sense for.
Wow, this was quite a diverse collection of printers! I've been printing since 2009 and haven't even heard of 3/4 of those printers, most seem pretty obscure. I wondering if there was any community around those rarer printers? It's difficult when you are pioneering without any community support. I did want to mention that the Elegoo Neptune 2S version was able to be purchased on Amazon and there were quite a few people who did buy one,. It's still a pretty decent printer and has a lot of upgrades built into it, like the spring steel + magnetic + heated build platform, touch screen, and quality springs. I would recommend a Neptune 2S if you found a good deal on one.
So after reading your comment, I went and bought an Elegoo Neptune and have had it about two weeks now and can agree, it's a great first 3D printer. Well worth the little amount it cost. Cheers!
bro i laughed out loud when i saw the picture of you flipping off the ender 7 lol!! so funny
First printer was a Monoprice Mini Select - which was honestly a really great tool to get into 3D printing but couldn't handle much. Second was a CR-10S Pro which seemed great at first until I found myself spending more time trying to keep the thing level and fine-tuning retraction settings than actually printing components. Finally was fed up (THIS WEEK) and ordered the Bambu Labs X1-Carbon Combo with their AMS system and I am beyond excited to try this thing out.
I just made the jump to bambu a couple weeks ago. You won't regret it. I'm glad I started with cheap crappy printers because it taught me a lot, but now I don't mind a machine that just works. I have no idea how bambu managed to make them so fast without sacrificing quality.
Damn, was about to sleep, but this is actually something I wanna know. Thanks a lot mate, but I'll just watch later.
Have a great one, greetings from Czechia!
probably the most qualified person to make this kind of list.
Fan showdown was my gateway drug into buying an ender 5. I haven't needed to use their customer support yet. But I've been happy with the print quality.
That's good. I haven't heard great things about creality, but I am happy to hear it isn't causing you any grief.
The esteps need changed on the ender 7. It'll work just fine after that. It sounds like they're set to 320 for the x and y axis, and need to be set to 80. Another potential issue is the steppers are not standard and need a change within firmware for them. If I had more information, specifically about that ender 7, I'd write you a custom firmware for it :)
"ESteps" is short for "Extruder Steps per Millimeter", so that is probably wrong as well, but in most firmware the setting that actually needs changing will be called something like "X steps pre mm", "Y steps per mm", etc
@@milolc correct. All the steps per mm may be wrong.
It's possible the wrong stepper driver is selected in the firmware.
It's indeed the wrong number of steps per mm. In Marlin you can change this with the M92 command.
I think it is more likely a zero point issue. If the 0, 0 is supposed to be in the corner of the bed, but it ends up getting set to the middle, it makes sense you could only print in 1/4th of it. I had the same issue with my ender 5. Couldn't be bothered to fix the firmware, so I made a little offset post-processor to run on the g code.
@@Rocketman1105Gaming If it was a zero point issue the printout shouldn't be scaled down to a quarter the size. Instead it would try to print full size and run into the limit switches and get an error.
The fact that the print out is scaled down makes it sound more likely to be a stepps per millimeter problem as described by @RubberSalt
Dude, I gotta ask. What camera setup do you use to film this? I am impressed with how the video 'feels'
I have an OG Elegoo Mars, and it's been one of the most ridiculously bulletproof printers i've ever had, and the only one that just... worked out of the box. Maybe I got lucky, but I really do enjoy how reliable it has been. The only issue that I fight is how picky it is with what USB you use to transfer files.
My experience with industrial printers is similar as your experience with the Fortus. I don't do 3D printing too often but we got an Arburg Freeformer 300-3X at my workplace and saying it is overpriced at >150k€ doesn't do it justice. Their marketing tells you all about the advantages: using plastic granulate instead of filament, multi-material printing, vacuum-sealed removable buildplates, heated chamber. But what they don't tell you is that their touchscreen is horrible, the GUI is unintuitive & buggy, you can barely customize anything more than the 3D object and temperature, they have no compatibility whatsoever with 3rd party software (slicers, etc.) and won't even allow you to use customized G-Code. The machine takes up a chunky 3-4m³ of space and the print quality is usually barely as good or worse than a 700€ Prusa i3 MK3. In summary the whole design screams that development was simly interrupted midway and is now sold for premium prices only because the company has some know-how in extruders. I guess when shopping for industrial 3D printers nothing beats a company with a lot of experience in the field.
5k for printer, 50k for brand sticker, 50k for "Pro" in marketing materials and 50k for chain of sales reps to shill it to unsuspecting and unqualified empty suits in company management 😂
I was gonna say "...well if that's like an earlier industrial printer, I can get that, these things have evolved pretty quickly...", then I googled it(what a concept in 2023) and saw that it [appears to have] come out in 2018. Yea, that's some garbage lol.
I got the Anycubic Photon Mono SE after you talked about it a few yearas ago.... and I still ahve it and love it still.... just a SOLID printer... and my first RESIN printer...
My first 3D printer was the Anycubic Mega X and it was and IS an awesome printer and I love it still... Upgraded the drivers, Marlin, BLTouch, and added OctoPi Raspberry PI to it and some relays and lighting and such and made is where when you turn it on, the Octo turns on and enabled the relay to power on the printer, and sits ready... Love it with the upgrade and Marlin was a HUGE upgrade and prints SO MUCH FASTER AND SMOOTHER!!!
Then I got a new Resin printer for BIGGER prints... Loved my PHOTON MONO SE so much, that I got the PHOTON M3 MAX with a MASSIVE build area.... Resin printer is a massive game changer and the layers are SO THIN that you can bearly see any layers even around a corner and SMOOTH corners and changers and hight and I swear it feels as good as injected molded plastic... also a trick with resin, never print perpendicular to the build plate, i.e. Up and down like you do on an FDM... Angle it like at 22.5° or 45° and it makes the layers much stronger. The issue with resin is it is brittle... thats my only issue.... But I love it..
I repaired one of those not long ago and couldn't understand why the test prints were as good a a Bambu Labs P1P. So much hype out there.
@@petercallison5765 Which one did you repair? the Photon SE or the M3 MAX?
Tht Photon SE quality is amazing when matched with the anycubic craftsman resin line. I've tried other resins and all the other ones have massive fumes and other issues they dont clean up nicely and stuff.
thank you for doing this, i follow your fan showdown for a while now, and was searching for a entry 3d printer, but everyone has a sponsor and i dont trust them .... i trust you because of your fan showdown, how you organize it all and do a community oriented show.. im so happy do decide my first 3d printer off your experiences ... thanks for pposting
Of all the printer gurus I follow, I value your opinion most. I'm currently printing on a stock Ender 3 v2 and there are a few things I wish it was capable of. I've had it for a while now and it does most things I need it to but I'd really appreciate some of the finer things in life - auto-leveling, multiple filaments, and printing speed to name a few. I appreciate your honest evaluation of the printers you've used and graded them based on more than the printer itself (creality 👀). Thanks brother, Cheers 🍻
My first printer was an Ender 3 V2. I wish people would stop recommending it as a first printer people should buy. It is garbage.
@@iamjamieq nothing but problems with the v2. hated that thing
If your looking for printers to try... im kinda a fan of my Adventurer 3c as a starter printer. I paid about £125 second hand/ refurbished from the company a year or two ago. Then all i needed to do was order a better nozzle and new bowden.
They can be picked up second hand now for about £50. A very under-rated printer as small build size and parts are a little pricey, but easy to maintain and prints pretty much everything but flexible filaments.
As a crazy kind of connection... I machined and maintained the mold used to make the front cover of the Fortus printer you had at work.
You seem to have a knack for Qidi, so maybe try out their X-max 3.
It's basically a 330mm Bambu that runs clipper and uses regular nozzles.
It also has a heated chamber, built in filters, and can do some engineering grade stuff for around $900.
No multi-material stuff, though. Bambu has the market cornered for that.
FYI - you can upgrade the nozzle in the Bambu P1S for about $50 (I did mine abou a month ago. I can;t remember the exact price, but it was not expensive at all). I also upgraded the touchscreen to match the X1. It cost me $10).
What screen?
Bambu sells a "Hotend with Nozzle" in hardened steel for $15 and a "Hardened Steel Extruder Gear Assembly" for $20. They also sell a "Stainless Steel Extruder Unit - P1 Series" for $35 and "Complete Hotend Assembly - P1 Series" for $35, but you only need the hardened steel nozzle and gear to print carbon fiber AFAICT.
im still on my printrbot play (with 8-inch heated bed upgrade). it still runs great and as much as i want a larger build area, its never given me any reason to upgrade. it kind of falls into the "toy" category though its incredibly solid.
Elegoo Neptune 2 was a popular printer on Amazon 2 years ago. Happens to be the model I own and it has worked great for me.
After seeing your video about the Neptune 2, I was able to buy one and it has been a great printer ever since. I have been curious about getting the newer versions.
I had the Elegoo Neptune 2s, after getting a BL-touch for it, glass plate with a PEI-sheet glued on. It prints amazing minatures, as good as ive seen them being done on an fdm printer. Im using the Elegoo Neptune 3 plus the most now, large build volume, exceptional print quality out of the box, only gripe is no linear rails (they added those in the 4 series).
I almost bought the Neptune 3 max, but one I don't have a lot of money to throw around. Two, I had never owned or used a 3d printer before. ...And three, The giant build volume would be great, but it also takes up a lot of space and I don't have a lot of space either.
Oh, the 4 is mechanically different as well?
Go buy a Neptune 4 Pro with linear rails, I bet you won't see a difference.
sir, i came and found you because of the tarantula Tevo, thank you for so much amazing videos since then
My first printer was an Anet A8. At the moment I am working with a Tevo Tarantula. Yes, nothing more, just that name. The printer isn't even mentioned anymore on Tevos website. And it's complicated to get the Marlin firmware compiled properly but recently I was able to upgrade it. It works somehow but of course could be better and more sturdy.
Does the jupiter connect to your pc wirelessly or wired or is it still using storage devices I gotta haul back and forth?
Just got the Neptune 4+ and its going very well
What are ur thoughts on the p1p,
I'm deciding on if I should get the p1p or the p1s @Major Hardware
My heavily customized Anet A6 bit the dust a while back so I upgraded to an Ender 3 S1. It's a beast! But I don't use the included software, and it'll be due for a mainboard swap-out soon. So I get why an Ender might not be a great out-of-the-box experience for everyone; for instance, mine has auto-bed-leveling, but I strongly suspect that it's not being utilized due to my workflow (Cad-->Prusa Slicer-->Octoprint). Right away, it would not print until I set the default printing depth to -3.1mm, even after using the automatic bed-leveling feature, so yeah. Not Ender's fault, but not exactly what I had in mind of an upgrade.
The build quality seems pretty great though so far, except I'm noticing a bit of excessive wear on the belts after ~4 months of use, so I'll have to keep an eye on that. Also I never got the hang of those magnetic flexible build plates and immediately switched back to glass (it's what I had been using for years). The steppers are WHISPER quiet but there's no real way to control the cooling fan, it's loud and always on 100%, which isn't ideal as I can't set it with Prusa Slicer. Just another reason I'll be swapping out the main board at some point to a custom solution and rolling my own flavor of Marlin.
But that's the kind of 3D printer I am. YMMV.
THE VIDEO I REALI NEEDED. THANK YOU SO MUCH, LUV YA XOXO
So i got a anycubic i3 s i believe and i want to print larger things, the printer i used is stock and very solid so i want to stick with a anycubic, my question is, should i get a kobra plus or kobra 2 plus?
My Creality Ender 3 Pro is a tank. I've moved multiple times, completely disassembling it and reassembling it each move. Each time I just rebuild the printer, let the bltouch I added realign it, change my nozzle, and off it goes. I've had no problems in the 3 years I've owned it.
The Bambus are great but I really want that flsun V400 for my next printer.
I ended up getting a weedo tina2 and didn't really realize till after I got it that it wasn't that stellar of a deal at $140, but I also don't have any complaints about it either. It just happens to work good for my situation in a smaller room printing smaller pla parts, it's been consistent and prints have been good so eh if it's reliable then I can't really dock it besides being a little expensive for what it is.
I have been thinking about getting into 3D Printers for years & started my research this evening. Your tips in this video are very much appreciated. On a side note, I could not help but notice the mouse that you are using. Which I am 90% sure of is a Logitech G604 Gaming Mouse. I have the same mouse & I absolutely love it. However, the reviews were not that great & I feel it was amazingly underrated. Since you have one, I would be very interested in your opinion regarding Logitech G604 Gaming Mouse? Keep up the great reviews!
My experience with Creality is I bought an ender 5 plus in the mindset that I was going to mod the crap out of it and not use anything but the printer structure. It's been amazing to have such a large build volume for the price.
All my friends who print are adamant that I should just buy the Creality 5 plus. Are you still happy with yours? This would be my first foray into 3D printing.
Still rocking a (heavily modified) FLSun Q5, partially because of your review as my first ever and still only printer. I was looking for a printer with a small footprint (excluding height) and delta's fit the bill with one of the cheapest, still, being the Q5.
Put klipper on it using an old phone as klipper host, klipper screen and webcam. As well as converting it to a direct drive printer on a budget using the stock extruder with a titan aero heatsink and designed a backplate myself to fit a pancake stepper and align the holes on the effector plate. I did lose a tiny corner of the buildplate because it interferes with the rods, but for me a small price to pay.
I am tempted to retrofit the v400 direct drive extruder to my Q5, but first I'm working on fitting a zonestart 3 in 1 out mixing hotend on it for some multicolor printing...
So far the Q5 never disappointed me! That being said I really like to tinker, so for me it's a never ending project, I wouldn't recommend it to absolute beginners as there are better/cheaper alternatives out there.
Did you ever work with the Makergear M3-SE or any Makergear printer?
I just can't get past Bambu and their cloud hosting. No way I'm sending my designs to them. For that reason it's Prusa for me always.
Same. I can't stand that Apple mentality when it comes to tech. "Use our stuff the way WE want you to, or not at all." The other thing that irks me is how every other printer manufacturer nowadays is coming out with their own slicer.
You don’t have to. You can use lan only mode or sd card. Eventually, Everything is going to go to the cloud.
Hahah what will they do with your shitty pokeballs 🤣
I'm still using a Printrbot Simple Metal with the heated bed option and a E3D V6 hot end, it is nearly 10 years old and has been an absolute workhorse and the print quality has been superb, however it is slow by today's standards and has a pretty small build plate. So I think I'll buy myself a new printer, I thought this would be an easy task but there are so many printers on the market I just do not know where to begin!
Long story-short, Elegoo and the Neptune 3 Pro are awesome. My first 3D printer is the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. I broke it the first week I had it, because I didn’t know how to clean it properly and stripped/broke a nozzle off in the hot end. Then while replacing the hot end I pinched the bed sensor and broke it. I emailed Elegoo to ask to buy a new sensor, told them what happened, and they sent me an entire new print head for free. Plus, everything was very easy to fix/understand. The only issues I’ve had were me, model, or filament related. It is also really well priced for a beginner, in my opinion. I think my next will be a Bambu Labs P1 or X1.
What debur tool is sitting there? I want one. I also have two Ender 3 Pros - Modded the hell out of one, upgraded the firmware but it took me a solid year. One of them I got as a junk ebay "someone failed to put it together and get it working" printer - the bed is warped to hell and back. Glass build plate fixed that.
I think the P1S is the best bang for buck because you don't need most things of the X1C that make it 1/3 more expensive and you can easily retrofit a hardened nozzle. Getting it with one AMS in a bundle is probably the best and most capale 3D printer on the market at this time. What a time to be printing!
Just upgraded from a Ender 3 V2 to that thing and i have spent less time tinkering with it in the month i have had it than i did setting the ender up for the first time, the prints are WAY better and i have probably printed more filament than i did the last year with the ender. and it takes 1/3rd the time to print and comes out better and more accurate
I wouldn’t say best but definitely a good printer. If the k1 had ams then I’d honest get rid of my Bambu. Can’t really do as much with Bambu , especially when it comes to 2a printing. Rather not have Bambu seeing all my stuff.
@@lLoneRoninl while it is not as convenient, I think you can operate a bambu completely offline or on a local only network. Should work especially with orca slicer
you should do a showcase of the month's best fans. id love that more than how much your head shines.
It's interesting how Bambu came on to the scene with the P1S and X1C and has quickly become the best FDM value.
Regarding the SLA resin printers (Elegoo Jupiter).. would this be the better choice for automotive parts?
BTW, what software did you use to make the tier graphics?
Between the hanging LEDs and the roaring fire, it looks like Christmas over at Maj. Hardware's place.
My first printer I ever seriously worked with was a Robo R1. Glass build plate, USB control only (so you needed a computer hooked up to it while it printed, not the newfangled SD cards or USB sticks), it was... not bad for the price since it had a heated bed, but otherwise the lack of part cooling really hurt it.
I've now worked with a Prusa MK3 that I've upgraded to MK3S+, a Prusa Mini is at home, a Raise3D Pro2 (which was OK, but way overpriced), and a couple of Markforged Onyx Ones. The best one out of them all is probably the MK3S+, it's just the best bang for the buck and you can always repair it or upgrade it.
So, I bought a Neptune 3 Pro because you liked the 2, and the 4 came out immediately after I did. So... Would those be A tier? Would the Neptune 4 max be S tier? Or should S tier be reserved for multi-extruder enabled, self-contained, multi-dimensional, all-in-one, industrial scale printers?
...If I put a hotter extruder on it so I could print Poly Carbonate (like I plan to), will the 3 be A tier?
Just like we owe Microsoft to bring a PC into most households, we owe the same to Creality and the Ender 3. To this day it's the model most copied. I just bought a used one for $75 cdn and after $32 for a dual lead screw kit, some self printed upgrades, and klipper it prints excellent at a respectable 120mm/s. The Ender 7 had some potential but failed in the mainboard and firmware. Throw in a BTT skr mini, flash klipper, and it rocks. btw, my first printer was a hotend controlled by a dimmer switch bolted to my cnc router back when mendle was first out. Worked ok at an acceptable 30mm/s which was acceptable back in those days.
I started with an anyyibic cobra, upgraded to a bambu P1S then got a QIDI X plus-3 becausr the P1S wasnt sufficient when printing larger prints in warp-prone filaments. I wasnt expecting to use it as mich as the P1S but its my go-to now, it's wuite a lot quieter, its much brighter which is useful when printing dark filaments which i normally do, the filament it stored in an airtight box with a dessicant pouch which makes life so much easier. I find the print quality to be at least equal to the P1S too and you can also print quite a few nore engineering grade materials which is more useful to me than the AMS. Bambu lab printers are kings for prototyping but the Qidi X 3 series give you much more bang for your buck than anything else if you're wanting to print parts for demanding applications.
My first printer was the Weedo, I liked it a lot, it was easy to set up and easier to use, the only issue I had with it was the Ethernet connection, Never could get it to work, My second printer was the Neptune 2, I have printed a LOT of worthless stuff on it, I upgraded the build plat so that I have a removable print surface, only PETG likes to eat the print surface. my only complaint is the time it takes to print, then again that can be said about all 3D printers, I have not used a liquid resin printer, I need a few things first
I’d be interested in where you would put the newer makerbots.
ill try building you a firmware for your ender 7 if youd down? lmk the mainboard and if youd ike any custom bits thrown in there
00:50 Tevoup Tarantula Pro
2:06 Prusa i3 MK3S+
2:46 Flsun Q5
3:31 Biqu B1
3:58 Labist ET4
4:20 Anet ET4
4:50 Elegoo Neptune 2
5:31 Ender 7
7:48 Flsun Super Racer (SR)
8:28 Qidi Tech I-Fast
9:08 Weedo Tina2
9:35 Qidi X-CF Pro
10:09 Flsun V400
10:52 Fortus 250mc
13:12 Bambu Lab X1C
14:00 Bambu Lab P1S
14:24 Elegoo Mars
15:15 Elegoo Mars 3
15:35 Anycubic Photon Mono SE
15:55 Nova3D Bene4 Mono
16:13 Elegoo Saturn
16: 35 Elegoo Jupiter
Glad that you liked Delta's. Would have loved to see more like ultimaker original, lulzbot etc, which, btw were pretty good.
Also on the resin Formlabs. Demon paper😂❤👍
100% I would recommend that anybody interested in 3D printing and design get a Bambu for their first printer. Stupid easy and fast without any need for tinkering, but it is extremely capable
6:40 I had the exact same problem with my Ender 3 V2 after compiling the firmware for the BL Touch. I had to redo it like 3 times before it would work. Was very strange.
Ended up using one of Jyers firmwares instead.
Actually im using Ender 3 Pro and im quite satisfied. Id did require assembly and some calibration from time to time but most of the time it prints fine. At least for my needs. That said im thinking about an upgrade to something new and "rebuulding" the ender to something else (this is still to be decided)
Ender 3 is fun because it's so hackable and there are a ton of mods, but I wouldn't get it unless you need a super cheap printer or for fun.
What is best budget friendly one for newbies?
The Ender7 seems to be completely fine except it has messed up E-steps. You can just hook it up to a computer via USB cable and send standard G-code commands to it to change these values.
Just the the fan showdown, I would suggest we should have the ultimaker S5 in the FDM printing and the FORM 3 SLA printer as the industry standard reference point. I think with those 2 machines in the list, it would be much more representable.
The ultimaker costs more than 5k has bowden extruders and a glas build plate. The only advantage is the dual nozzle. I dont think Bambu in sny way killed prusa but they shure did quite a number on ultimaker. Both are nice looking, easy to use and fast printers that work out of the box. Both mainly desinged for the prosumer and office work. But bambu has the AMS and there products are significantly cheaper even the X1E with AMS only costs 2700€ whereas an S5 is 5k without any accesories and going over 10k as an bundle. And they have a wider range of products, from the small A1mini to the X1E that is a great printer for light industrial work. I have seen an X1E that has printed mor than 100kg of glass fiber nylon.
Started with an old Folgertech 2020 kit here. She's still a workhorse but the X1C gets most of the jobs these days.
I bought an Ender 7 as my first printer (was on sale for less than the Ender 5 I was going to buy) and installed a BL touch without any crazy issues like that, so maybe they released a new firmware for the BL Touch.
You should try klipper with the ender 7. Maybe it is a software only issue and you can save it.
I had the same problem with the Elegoo Mars, left it unused for ages, turned out the film was just shipped not taut enough. Never had any contact with customer services for any of my printers, I recently found my original Wanhao Duplicator i3 rusting away damaged in my shed, somehow it actually still prints without me doing anything to it. It did clog half way into the print, hardly surprising, probably just needs a new nozzle on it though, and a nice clean.
I've also had trouble with Creality service. I can't even order replacement parts from them. So, here i am searching for a new printer. I won e sent 6 follow-up emails to them regarding replacing my non functional filament sensor. (They sent a new sensor after the first mail, but the problem was with the board not the sensor). Their phone line is non functional, the chat function does not work, and they removed the forums because they were full of people asking questions with no support.
Now you need to get the prusa xl with the 5 extruders and prusa sl1s resin printer and test them out.
the modern creality firmware for cr/bl touch is still broken, I tried it and extruders on my e3 stopped working, installed marlin works great.
Torn between the x1c or the prusa mk4… thoughts?
I'm so glad I get to rant about Creality customer service.
So I bought the prebuilt Ender 3 V2 Neo the week it came out for my research lab (HORRIBLE MISTAKE). When I got it nothing worked. The extruder wouldn't push the nozzle through, the z axis gantry was jittery, and the wheels were so tight on the gantry that It would get stuck and wouldn't move. I tried to return it (they wouldn't let me) and eventually I just bought new everything. New nozzle, new hotend, new gantry wheels, an extra z axis gantry, new extruder. I FINALLY got it working, but nothing on the printer is original anymore (except BL touch). Needless to say, wont buy from them again, but I did learn a lot about how 3D printers work. LOL
I agree, I thought by buying an Ender 3 V2 I was getting into 3D Printing. Boy was I wrong. What I actually was doing was getting into tinkering with 3D printers.
Sure this will go un-noticed but I sure would like that Ender-7 I love fixing problems like that and have been pretty good at it over the years lol.
Did me dirty on the elegoo neptune 2, bought in UK for £150 gbp over 2.5 years ago, serving me well to this day.
I had similar issues with creality firmware. Just compile your own, I learned how to in about 2 hours. It isn't hard.
I have an ender 3 that i tried to add a BL Touch to and it bricked the board too. had to replace the board, didn't try adding a touch again afraid to brick it.
creality ender 3 v2 neo...constant headache, yet still love it. Not sure why, but it did teach me how to compile firmware...it's a 300c beast now...could have just got a sv06 and been good to go, but I love a headache apparently.
@MajorHardware If this doesn't sound too weird... I'm an engineer and local. I'd love to take a look at the Ender 7 and see if I could sort out the issue with it. Or if you just want to get rid of it, I wouldn't mind adding it to my stable and trying to get it working. I am running a couple Ender 3 Pros right now off octoprint, and I think I could probably get that Ender 7 working.
I got a neptune 4 pro recently - as someone who has never 3d printed before I can highly recommend it. Has always been painless and fast
Hi Andrew. How's been your experience with it? Really thinking about the Neptune 4 Pro
I totally want that ender 7. New board and klipper and it's good to go.
How can you claim the X1C is the same as like the i-Fast? The X1C only has one nozzle, so how do you print completely disparate materials, like TPU and PLA on the same print? Or water soluble supports and PLA?
Been following the channel for the fan showdown and the random pc cooling experiments, and even though I have little interest in 3d printers, I've ended up learning quite a bit from your channel about them.
I did work at the makerbot factory assembly line for a little while, and when they laid off everyone they raffled off 10 printers to employees and I ended up getting one. It's a rep 2 (I'm sure its beyond outdated at this point) and it's extruder is leaking. I know how to fix it since I probably put thousands of the extruders together (needs new "bar mount") but for now it collects dust, and rust. Worth fixing? Sell it busted? I'm afraid if I fix it I'll have a new hobby I don't have space for right now (it's on top of my fridge LOL)
fix it and just keep it around for those weird items you might want to print.. i went into it just to print models and have something fun to do with the kids to realizing i could use it to fix all kinds of stuff around the house.. hell it's great for printing those stupid ikea dowel's and plastic locking clip things that always break or get lost. :)