I cannot find that galaxy black filament anywhere on Ella goose website. Are you sure it is not made by a different manufacture? Or have they just not released yet?
Loving my Neptune 4 Max so far! Printed out a Flatbox and a CherryBox leverless controller from Printables and they both came out amazing using your OrcaSlicer profiles! Thank you so much for the great content!
As someone who is running older printers with a sonicpad to get klipper functionality. I am interested in seeing how these bed slingers compare to the core xy options that are out now. Hoping for a deeper dive into that. Awesome to see some promise already.
Hey, Jesse - have you continued using this printer since this review? I'm curious if they're still shipping it with the same problems, or if they've corrected them now (a year later). This machine is on sale for $350, which is crazy for something with this build volume, but if it's a nightmare to run, it's still not worth it. Just thought I'd ask. Thanks!
Elegoo is so weird, they are so fast with releasing hardware but the firmware and software is always needing to be upgraded or fixing somehow. It is like they barely test it before releasing it😂
I think cura is not ready for high speed printer.For example, speed is not adjustable for the first layer after support. You need to slow down whole top and bottom layers. If elegoo provide software support neptune 4 pro will become one of the best printers.
Since Elegoo announced the Giga with larger nozzles, I'm optimistic that they will be available at least by next Spring when that's supposed to be available. I have a 4Pro and was considering adding this, I'm using the Neptune for rough drafts before doing slow AF final prints in my BCN W50 and have had a ton of issues with supports, stringing and under extrusion so I think I'll be waiting for now to see the status of larger nozzles and sorting out slicer issues. I dislike Cura and will have to look into Orca, unfortunately the BCN also uses a skinned Cura and it's been hard to find an alternative that lets me do enough tweaking to supports to ensure successful prints and can support the IDEX on the BCN. Thanks for these reviews, it's super helpful to sort through all the options!
I also have this printer. Been having the same issue with the Z offset, and a myriad of other issues. The Z offset issue actually scratched up my print surface real bad, and I had to buy a replacement. This machine with that issue and the complete lack of profiles or info to make your own is truly not ready for release. The amount of hours and filament I have wasted to tune it, only to realize that no matter how well I tune it, I still have to be there to manually adjust the bed and Z offset at the start of every print, and if I’m not fast enough then I have to cancel the print and start over. I’m really disappointed. The hardware seems good, but this shouldn’t have been released, it’s half baked at best and a huge headache. I want it to get fixed, I want it to get good, but I’d suggest to others that it’s not ready yet so maybe hold out on buying until you hear these teething issues are fixed.
That Magneto Samurai mask was INSANE!! I'm sure it'll be beautiful when painted, but it looks incredible in that Galaxy Black! Wow!! Did Elegoo ever get back with you on the 0.6 nozzle issue? It's been 9 months, so I would assume they've got them to market by now, but you never know. Looks like Orca was the way to go with that printer, too. Amazing difference in the Silverhand statue between the 2 slicers. I'm gonna guess the "other" printer you compared it to in the video was an X1 Carbon, given the stats. Pretty comparable results. I thought I wanted a core X/Y for my first printer, but this bed slinger is impressive enough it might have changed my mind. Especially given the price point.
My Neptune 4 Pro has been running almost nonstop since I got it probably six weeks ago. It's great. The only issue was the LED on the print head dimmed to almost nonexistent after 100 hours of ABS prints directly over a 110 C print bed. I'm waiting for Elegoo to make a Neptune 4 Pro Max with steel rollers on steel rails. I think that will be a significant improvement for print quality and reliability on a fast large format printer that is accelerating a relatively heavy print bed. Elegoo should have used a Volcano compatible nozzle for all of the Neptune 4 series. They all print the same materials at the same speed. Making proprietary high flow nozzles when there is already a standard is not customer oriented. It's not as bad as some of the proprietary stunts Qidi has pulled that convinced me not to buy any more of their printers (I bought seven), but it's still needless market complexity and hassle that we don't need.
@@nanneborn4523 - I use PrusaSlicer. I loved being able to send G code directly to the Neptune 4 Pro via the Fluidd web browser tab rather than previous printers where I had to load the G code onto a micro SD card that was then plugged into the printer in the most awkward position imaginable. Then I started sending the G code to the Neptune 4 Pro directly from PrusaSlicer. It's as easy as 2D printing a document from LibreOffice. Why did it take so long before Klipper made this happen? I'm now a huge Klipper fan.
Offset changing like that is usually due to bad v-wheels. Try swapping them out for Triangle Labs v-wheels, they usually provide a much better experience on any v-wheel printer.
@@boulderdash555 how would that cause the offset to change in the way he describes? From what he said is happening, it SOUNDS more like the bearings in the wheels have come loose from the POM tires and are creating inconsistent movement...at least from what he said of the issue he's experiencing.
Great video! Which firmware version are you using on your machine? Also, would you be willing to share your Orca Slicer settings for the N4 Max, please?
I ordered a 4 Plus last night as my first 3D Printer. No idea how long it'll take to ship. Suffice it to say I'm looking forward to your review next week 😅 It was between 4+ and the SV06+ for me but Klipper+WiFi won out.
Thanks, Jesse! Had my eye on this printer for a bit. One thing I haven't been able to find is how much room front and back is needed for full extent bed movement... Base dimensions are available but not actual required useable space... Can you help out?
Just measured my 4 Max, the full sweep of the bed is 37 inches full back to full forward. It's 27.5 inches wide and 30 inches tall without the spool holder, I've got it on the bottom shelf of a 48" x 24" shelving unit and had to put a 2x4 on the floor in front of it to give it enough room to move. It's a beast.
@@UncleJessy It makes for a GREAT filament to print things for the printer because it pretty closely matches the long extrusions that the bed rides on!
I have an Anycubic Chiron with a huge bed. My solution was to build a wooden wheeled cart with heavy locking wheels. That way you can roll it out of the way when not in use or wherever you have the space for it when you are printing. That way it does not take up valuable counter space. The shelf underneath can hold tools, filament, etc. Maybe you can collaborate with a woodworking creator like Bob from "I like to make stuff?"
I love seeing all the things i no longer have to deal with ... Your issues with Z offset tweaking with each print, powering off the printer between prints, stringing... So much stuff i dont have to deal with since getting my "other" printer. When i saw that klipper screen and heard you needed to add gcide to get the end stops to work, i shuddered with PTSD from those days.
Looks great! It would be good to see a comparison of print times, for the same model, with older machines, to get an idea of how much faster these prints can be - if that would be interesting.
Great video. :) I am disappointed with the nozzle. i was thinking about picking this up with a diamond nozzle but at this point it has changed my mind on purchasing the printer. maybe after a short time it would have one of those nozzles available but i am not confident that will happen anytime soon. with this video it has greatly helped me not make a mistake on getting a printer for cheap but not with the things i would want or need. Keep up the great work. :)
i occasionally get that z-offset glitch on my neptune 3 max... i noticed i get it when i print via usb directly from cura, and then print something with the micro SD card... when i go back to cura, the z-offset is either super high, or very low... it's so strange... i've asked several groups, but no one else gets this "glitch"... i'll level it again, and i know the number i use for my z-offset, i have it written down on a post it on my monitor... and then i'll adjust it again, start to print, and it's wrong... super strange...
The only issue I've run into with the fan module is with some tree supports on larger prints, printing at speed, they can flex and get caught on the fan. I ended up taking the module off and slowed the print speed down to about 225mm/s and haven't seen any negative results.
For anyone wondering: maximum quality print / resolution / layer height for the Neptune 4 max in the Elegoo Cura software is 0.12mm. Profiles are 0.12 High quality, 0.16 Normal Quality, 0.20 has 3 profiles: Fine Quality, Fine strength and Fine fast, 0.24 Medium Quality and finally 0.28 Draft Quality.
What you said about having to adjust the z-offset constantly made me instantly perk up. I've been having a similar (maybe the same?) issue on my Neptune 4 Pro and it's driving me absolutely nuts. I'll get one or two good prints out of it and then it seems like I just can't get the first layer to work at all even on the most basic print. Check the bed leveling and everything is fine, but if I adjust the z-offset manually beyond what it should be, it seems to help. Really hope they get out a fix for whatever that issue is. I'm going to try the power-cycling tip for sure and see if it helps.
I had the same issue and I had to hurry out and let it run without check and absolutely destroyed my tool head when the filament caked on it. It also caused the printer to go in error mode and the motherboard now needs firmware reflashed. Unfortunately there are no parts available for the 4 max yet and as of now no new firmware updates either. Don’t take me wrong it’s been a great printer and I love it. I made the mistake of not watching it for a few layers and adjusting the z-height and that’s on me.
On my Neptune 3 Max (running Klipper) I'm pretty sure this issue is just a thermal expansion situation. If you fire up the printer and start printing the moment the temp is stable the "gap" is different than if you let the printer sit "at temp" for 15min or so and then start printing. In any event, do the bed level at the temperature conditions you will be working at... always printing on first fire up? Do the bed level immediately after you've hit temp. In my case I ALWAYS let the printer idle at full bed temp for 15min before starting to print, and that is the point in time I did the bed level. That way if I abort a print shortly after starting, or immediately launch into another print, I don't have to worry about waiting for thermal expansion on a "cold" printer...
That could be. I have typically done my bed leveling after heating the bed to 60 and nozzle to something like 140 (so it doesn't ooze) but I haven't let it just soak heat at full temp for 15 minutes. I installed the latest firmware (turns out I was not on the latest) and still having some issues, but I actually now suspect there's more going on. I get a lot of gooeyness that strings and globs all over the bed even at lower temperatures and that's destroying adhesion. Once I get the initial layer down it's all fine from there, but that first layer is a doozy. I'm using Overture matte PLA filament fresh out of the box and it's consistently happened with six rolls ordered on different occasions. I get slightly better results at higher temperatures (225 nozzle / 70 bed) but then more stringing. So, I'm not sure if maybe it's the filament or retraction or bed leveling or flow or something else entirely. I'm just not experienced enough to know what I'm looking at when it's going wrong.
My Max is in an enclosure, and I run the bed at 100C printing ABS, so these thermal issues are even more magnified. I chased this issue for days when I first started printing, but having a consistent approach to WHEN I start printing vs WHEN I did the bed level was the key to success. Again, let the whole printer come to temp and stay there for 15min, then do a bed level, then always start your printing run after a 15min warm up and this Z offset issue will go away. I do have another alternate bed level profile in Klipper/Mainsail that was taken just at first bed warm-up to temp, but I only did that after I understood the full issue, and you darn well sure don't want to get the profiles mixed up... :)
I haven't been able to find an answer, is there a major difference, aside from the size, for the EN4Max and the EN4Pro? I really want the Pro, but it would be nice for larger prints on the Max. I am trying to replace my EN2S that got flooded.
I hope someone offers an enclosure for a machine this size. Long prints do much better in an enclosure, not to mention containing the VOCs/Nanoparticles that printing generates.
Have this printer myself and love the results but had a couple of issues. First the gantry wasn't square, I actually had to shim it to get it truly square. This was causing me to have inconsistent layer heights as the print got higher. 2nd the bed sensor doesn't give a consistent z on home. I frequently have to change the offset +/- .1mm to get a good first layer. 3rd... they used a very old distro of Debian that will not support updated versions of Klipper and the Fuidd interface they have chosen gives incorrect data like stating the start time of the print is the projected end time. Of course because Debian is so out of date, the arguably best choice for camera support, Crowsnest can't be installed. The included camera support will keep the camera up for an hour or so but will need a system reboot to bring it back once the camera is shut off by the system. I put in a ticket with Elegoo and they were very insistent that nothing of the software be changed and the z sensor is working as intended. With all that being said, it's a good printer, it just needed a little more tech savviness on the software end in my opinion.
I have the neptune 4 pro and the quality is about the same as my bambu. The only difference is you have to manually set the bed and z off axis. The bambu is almost plug and play. It takes a lot of the manual adjustments out of the equation with all the sensors they pack in them. For a new person like my self only 4 months in the hobby.... The bambu is way better. I haven't had a bad print and anything that didn't work out was user error.
I honestly couldnt tell the difference between one and the other. The bambu clearly will print faster but im still super impressed with what elegoo has bene able to do with this huge bed slinger
@@cStatixI'm new to the 3D printing scene as well, so maybe I'll go for either the P1P or P1S to start with. I'm going to be printing a lot of D&D terrain and miniatures, so I thought something bigger like the Neptune 4 Max would be nice for some larger terrain and scenery. The Bambu Lab stuff seems like a no-brainer though, so I'll probably go with that first. If I decide I need a larger print bed, I'll get the Neptune later down the road and run them both at the same time. I also want to pick up a resin printer for the miniatures though.
@Vortex1988 for the price of a p1s you could get a neptune 4 and a Mars 3 (and have change to get the wash and cure). Use one neptune for terrain and Mars for minis lol. The Bambus are amazing though. I have the x1c and love it.
So just a counter to the “mystery” $1200 printer: 1.) it’s sibling can be bought for much less with pretty much the same performance and 2.) Elegoo’s biggest problem is in their eagerness to release new machines, they tend to forget the printers that have come before them. Firmware updates, upgrades etc? Forget about it. If you want that you’ll need to buy their new machine. Make no mistake, elegoo can make some impressive machines, I was blown away by their Neptune 3. Less blown away by them dumping the product like a hot coal 3 months after release so they could support the Neptune 3 Pro. It’s something they have to really work on in my opinion. That said, I still think bang for buck, considering size, this printer is hard to beat. Just please support them better Elegoo!
Awesome video. Should i purchase from AZN or Directly from Elegoo, as I thinking if there is an issue and getting a new one. How is Elegoo with returns? Also, Does AZN have newer or older models in stock?
I have a Neptune 4 max. Nothing but issues. I am on the current firmware loaded 3 times to try and fix my issues. 1. Input shaper errors out. 2. Printer stops randomly before finishing model, print head just stops where it’s at. The digital display does not show an error it still thinks it’s printing the temp still shows 215 and 70 on the bed. But the bed and print head are cold. 3. Elegoo rapid filament broke of in the extruded and in the tube below the gear melted in the extruder. I am not able to get it out with out breaking the extruder. I have been working with support for over 2 weeks I am currently waiting on extruder replacement. But I believe that that they need to send me a mains board because of my issues. Well it looks like I the part will not show up until next year sometime. Right now I have $500 paper weight. If you are interested in this 3d printer wait 2 - 3 months to see if the issues are fixed.
I am looking at this for my first FDM printer. My second in general. I am wary of any of them due to all the adjusting crap and failures I see posted on FB. Have the issues been resolved now?
Hey Jessy, would like to get your profile for the Max4. I've had mine for over 6 weeks and am struggling to see the point. A machine this large needs an enclosure, and it will never print fast due to the mass of the print bed being slammed violently back and forth. This is causing the y axis motor to skip, layer shifting, etc. Bed-slingers and speed do not mix. I note in your video that your speeds are very medium. Try those in sport mode....
I am still setting up my new Neptune 4 Max printer but I also have been watching various videos such as yours. When I ordered the printer I also ordered Multi-Sizes Nozzles for Neptune 4PLUS/4MAX which you had mentioned in your video. I am wondering if you would be willing to do another video talking about the advantages and disadvantages when using the different sized nozzles?
basically smaller nozzles much more detail, but take much more time to print, bigger nozzle faster print, smaller detail, but depending on what you want to print like simple shape, doesn't benefit smaller nozzle, it safe a lot of time print bigger thing using big nozzle
That looks like the sv06 plus nozzle.... I think I saw some where that someone identified that nozzle as a nozzle specific to another Creality printer (K1 maybe?), but that might be wrong. Anyway, would be interested to see if it's actually the same as the Sovol.
Hello, I really like your video and I ordered the Neptune 4 Max printer. I really liked your printed T-Rex. Could you please clarify which filament was used for it? It looks like it was a rainbow filament, but I can't find the exact one anywhere. Could you please tell me the specific type of filament that was used for the T-Rex? Thank you.
Oh, I just fixed that z offset issue on klipper. My start_print macro was setting z offset to zero. Check your macros, maybe that's what's causing your issue
I feel so much better reading these comments. I thought I was the only one struggling with my 4 max. I messed up my print surface as well. Ive run into multiple issues and im only 1 month into my 3d printing gig with now 3 printers on my farm. My elegoo neptune 3 plus is my workhorse, my ender s1 pro is a dud along with my 4 max. I refuse to give up on the max. If any of you could reach out with help on this firmware or patch I'd really appreciate it
I’m fairly new to 3d printing. I’ve been using the Bambu x1c but really want to get into a much larger build volume for work. Would I have a rough time with this big guy?
Where is the Neptune 4 Max firmware update? I checked their website. Nothing for the Plus or Max. I checked Elegoo's (and other) Github repos and came up empty their as well. I'm guessing this is a custom using modified files from this and other Neptune printers?
You called out same the issues I’ve had with mine. I’m liking the machine but really want to switch over to Orca. After living with Bambu Studio for the last year Cura just feels like a step backwards.
I just boughtthis printer and I want to print a helmet what is the best setting for a Marrok Helet that is in 6 pieces? By the way all six pieces will fit the build plate at once.
I was thinking about getting a printer and really enjoyed the video. I was wondering if you had any videos on using or how to use the programs you mention in the video.
Can you Tell me, with how much Speed do you Print There with the New Printer? Or can you Tell me a good Speed Number What will Print fast and dont kill the quality? It Looks so good..
@@UncleJessy Will be awesome to see! Only thing that disappoints me is how slow it is. I was hoping with a HUGE printer they would get the speed even higher especially with corexy. Wonder if they will have adjustment wheels 😑
I'm using your Patron profile for this printer and also getting a lot of stringing so any updates / advice would be appreciated. Excellent video and printer (so far!)
in order to level small portions of the bed, try putting notecards or small slips of paper (obviously smaller is better) between the build plate and the magnet where you have low spots.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
13:50 - that should be a hour Longer! not an hour less 🤦♂ Can you tell I dont script out any of my videos 😂
could i checkout the profiles you used?
I cannot find that galaxy black filament anywhere on Ella goose website. Are you sure it is not made by a different manufacture? Or have they just not released yet?
Loving my Neptune 4 Max so far! Printed out a Flatbox and a CherryBox leverless controller from Printables and they both came out amazing using your OrcaSlicer profiles! Thank you so much for the great content!
Heck yeah! Excited to hear that and glad to hear they worked good!
@@johannesbatzersame
What tier are the profiles on? Or where can I find them?
How do I get the orca slicer profiles? I am about to get my neptune 4 max this week and I wanna get started on the right foot.
I have the same profile but the prints are ugly my I have to put more slow?
I'm glad you mentioned the z offset issue, I'm having the same and thought I was going crazy
As someone who is running older printers with a sonicpad to get klipper functionality. I am interested in seeing how these bed slingers compare to the core xy options that are out now. Hoping for a deeper dive into that. Awesome to see some promise already.
What Core XY printers will do 400mm x 400mm prints???
A custom built one
Hey, Jesse - have you continued using this printer since this review? I'm curious if they're still shipping it with the same problems, or if they've corrected them now (a year later). This machine is on sale for $350, which is crazy for something with this build volume, but if it's a nightmare to run, it's still not worth it. Just thought I'd ask. Thanks!
Elegoo is so weird, they are so fast with releasing hardware but the firmware and software is always needing to be upgraded or fixing somehow. It is like they barely test it before releasing it😂
4.8 Cura is fine and they have new firmware for the 4 and 4 Pro get the Bed leveled an let it ripppppp
Yes Support and Firmware very Bad ...
@@umutkucuk7213thats correct i return my neptune 4 max
i use prusaslicer on the neptune 4 and no issues. idk why they even bother with elegoo cura
I think cura is not ready for high speed printer.For example, speed is not adjustable for the first layer after support. You need to slow down whole top and bottom layers. If elegoo provide software support neptune 4 pro will become one of the best printers.
Since Elegoo announced the Giga with larger nozzles, I'm optimistic that they will be available at least by next Spring when that's supposed to be available. I have a 4Pro and was considering adding this, I'm using the Neptune for rough drafts before doing slow AF final prints in my BCN W50 and have had a ton of issues with supports, stringing and under extrusion so I think I'll be waiting for now to see the status of larger nozzles and sorting out slicer issues. I dislike Cura and will have to look into Orca, unfortunately the BCN also uses a skinned Cura and it's been hard to find an alternative that lets me do enough tweaking to supports to ensure successful prints and can support the IDEX on the BCN. Thanks for these reviews, it's super helpful to sort through all the options!
What are you make if you don’t mind me asking and are they all one tone
I also have this printer.
Been having the same issue with the Z offset, and a myriad of other issues.
The Z offset issue actually scratched up my print surface real bad, and I had to buy a replacement.
This machine with that issue and the complete lack of profiles or info to make your own is truly not ready for release.
The amount of hours and filament I have wasted to tune it, only to realize that no matter how well I tune it, I still have to be there to manually adjust the bed and Z offset at the start of every print, and if I’m not fast enough then I have to cancel the print and start over.
I’m really disappointed. The hardware seems good, but this shouldn’t have been released, it’s half baked at best and a huge headache.
I want it to get fixed, I want it to get good, but I’d suggest to others that it’s not ready yet so maybe hold out on buying until you hear these teething issues are fixed.
Thank your for this feedback
Have they fixed this with a firmware update?
Is it ok to buy plus or max now ?
@@seaofcuriosity I have been running mine for a week now and the prints are nice.
@@MrDixonSyder this will be my first printer ever. So i want to be sure. Many reviewers are having all sorts of strange problems.
24 hours for that full helmet is not bad at all, with that insane detail ~chefs kiss~
That Magneto Samurai mask was INSANE!! I'm sure it'll be beautiful when painted, but it looks incredible in that Galaxy Black! Wow!! Did Elegoo ever get back with you on the 0.6 nozzle issue? It's been 9 months, so I would assume they've got them to market by now, but you never know. Looks like Orca was the way to go with that printer, too. Amazing difference in the Silverhand statue between the 2 slicers. I'm gonna guess the "other" printer you compared it to in the video was an X1 Carbon, given the stats. Pretty comparable results. I thought I wanted a core X/Y for my first printer, but this bed slinger is impressive enough it might have changed my mind. Especially given the price point.
My Neptune 4 Pro has been running almost nonstop since I got it probably six weeks ago. It's great. The only issue was the LED on the print head dimmed to almost nonexistent after 100 hours of ABS prints directly over a 110 C print bed. I'm waiting for Elegoo to make a Neptune 4 Pro Max with steel rollers on steel rails. I think that will be a significant improvement for print quality and reliability on a fast large format printer that is accelerating a relatively heavy print bed.
Elegoo should have used a Volcano compatible nozzle for all of the Neptune 4 series. They all print the same materials at the same speed. Making proprietary high flow nozzles when there is already a standard is not customer oriented. It's not as bad as some of the proprietary stunts Qidi has pulled that convinced me not to buy any more of their printers (I bought seven), but it's still needless market complexity and hassle that we don't need.
Hello, I also want to buy a neptune 4 but there are a lot negatieve reviews. What slicer to you use?
@@nanneborn4523 - I use PrusaSlicer. I loved being able to send G code directly to the Neptune 4 Pro via the Fluidd web browser tab rather than previous printers where I had to load the G code onto a micro SD card that was then plugged into the printer in the most awkward position imaginable. Then I started sending the G code to the Neptune 4 Pro directly from PrusaSlicer. It's as easy as 2D printing a document from LibreOffice. Why did it take so long before Klipper made this happen? I'm now a huge Klipper fan.
Offset changing like that is usually due to bad v-wheels. Try swapping them out for Triangle Labs v-wheels, they usually provide a much better experience on any v-wheel printer.
It is actually due to Interpolate setting set to True and stealthchop set to 999999 in 26 firmware. 43 has some stuff addressed, but not fully.
@@boulderdash555 how would that cause the offset to change in the way he describes? From what he said is happening, it SOUNDS more like the bearings in the wheels have come loose from the POM tires and are creating inconsistent movement...at least from what he said of the issue he's experiencing.
@@Geoff_W it also can be a contributing factor, ELEGOOs klipper settings are not great.
Great video! Which firmware version are you using on your machine? Also, would you be willing to share your Orca Slicer settings for the N4 Max, please?
I 2nd this
What brand was the rainbow filament?
I'd like to know this too
I ordered a 4 Plus last night as my first 3D Printer. No idea how long it'll take to ship. Suffice it to say I'm looking forward to your review next week 😅 It was between 4+ and the SV06+ for me but Klipper+WiFi won out.
I'm excited for you. You picked a good time to enter the fray.
fwiw my 3 max took about half a year. stock was low at all suppliers at the time
I ordered one 8 days ago, and it has already shipped, so hopefully his has too.
Thanks, Jesse! Had my eye on this printer for a bit. One thing I haven't been able to find is how much room front and back is needed for full extent bed movement... Base dimensions are available but not actual required useable space... Can you help out?
Just measured my 4 Max, the full sweep of the bed is 37 inches full back to full forward. It's 27.5 inches wide and 30 inches tall without the spool holder, I've got it on the bottom shelf of a 48" x 24" shelving unit and had to put a 2x4 on the floor in front of it to give it enough room to move. It's a beast.
@@leeball4 THANKS!!!
I have this and use Orcaslicer but, can't get settings for bigger layer heights. Using a .8mm nozzle and can't get than .28mm. Help?
I’m still new to Orca, but when you set up your printer profile did you make sure to set it to that nozzle size?
Everything looks so smooth, and layer lines are non-existent, what are your settings in orca? Please. Awesome Video!!!
Can you make it change filament during a print?
That Galaxy Black PLA has produced some amazing prints for me too. It's just uncanny how good stuff printed with it looks!
I just ordered 5 more rolls of it 🤣😂 I’m obsessed
@@UncleJessy It makes for a GREAT filament to print things for the printer because it pretty closely matches the long extrusions that the bed rides on!
Got a link for the filament you used?
Odd elegoo told me its not for sale and i dont see it on the website, how did you get it?
I have an Anycubic Chiron with a huge bed. My solution was to build a wooden wheeled cart with heavy locking wheels. That way you can roll it out of the way when not in use or wherever you have the space for it when you are printing. That way it does not take up valuable counter space. The shelf underneath can hold tools, filament, etc. Maybe you can collaborate with a woodworking creator like Bob from "I like to make stuff?"
I am having a problem of my prints not staying on the bed. Any ideas. I have tried leveling several times. Tried hair spray etc.
What was the solution here ? I'm having similar issues.
what filament is the t-rex made from?!?
I love seeing all the things i no longer have to deal with ... Your issues with Z offset tweaking with each print, powering off the printer between prints, stringing... So much stuff i dont have to deal with since getting my "other" printer. When i saw that klipper screen and heard you needed to add gcide to get the end stops to work, i shuddered with PTSD from those days.
Looks great! It would be good to see a comparison of print times, for the same model, with older machines, to get an idea of how much faster these prints can be - if that would be interesting.
Great video. :) I am disappointed with the nozzle. i was thinking about picking this up with a diamond nozzle but at this point it has changed my mind on purchasing the printer. maybe after a short time it would have one of those nozzles available but i am not confident that will happen anytime soon. with this video it has greatly helped me not make a mistake on getting a printer for cheap but not with the things i would want or need. Keep up the great work. :)
This was a large 3D printer. The Orange Storm Giga is about to make this thing look like a tiny toy. 😮
Yeah got that email today. Wonder what the kickstarter price point will be.
I’ve heard rumors of $1400ish but that seems low considering the price of similarly-sized TronXY printers. I’d bet closer to $2000-2500?
On their recent video they say in the description that it will be starting at just 1250$
i occasionally get that z-offset glitch on my neptune 3 max... i noticed i get it when i print via usb directly from cura, and then print something with the micro SD card... when i go back to cura, the z-offset is either super high, or very low... it's so strange... i've asked several groups, but no one else gets this "glitch"... i'll level it again, and i know the number i use for my z-offset, i have it written down on a post it on my monitor... and then i'll adjust it again, start to print, and it's wrong... super strange...
The only issue I've run into with the fan module is with some tree supports on larger prints, printing at speed, they can flex and get caught on the fan. I ended up taking the module off and slowed the print speed down to about 225mm/s and haven't seen any negative results.
For anyone wondering: maximum quality print / resolution / layer height for the Neptune 4 max in the Elegoo Cura software is 0.12mm. Profiles are 0.12 High quality, 0.16 Normal Quality, 0.20 has 3 profiles: Fine Quality, Fine strength and Fine fast, 0.24 Medium Quality and finally 0.28 Draft Quality.
What you said about having to adjust the z-offset constantly made me instantly perk up. I've been having a similar (maybe the same?) issue on my Neptune 4 Pro and it's driving me absolutely nuts. I'll get one or two good prints out of it and then it seems like I just can't get the first layer to work at all even on the most basic print. Check the bed leveling and everything is fine, but if I adjust the z-offset manually beyond what it should be, it seems to help. Really hope they get out a fix for whatever that issue is. I'm going to try the power-cycling tip for sure and see if it helps.
I thought I heard there was a new Neptune 4 firmware update that helped resolve that. I haven’t checked to be honest though
I had the same issue and I had to hurry out and let it run without check and absolutely destroyed my tool head when the filament caked on it. It also caused the printer to go in error mode and the motherboard now needs firmware reflashed. Unfortunately there are no parts available for the 4 max yet and as of now no new firmware updates either. Don’t take me wrong it’s been a great printer and I love it. I made the mistake of not watching it for a few layers and adjusting the z-height and that’s on me.
On my Neptune 3 Max (running Klipper) I'm pretty sure this issue is just a thermal expansion situation. If you fire up the printer and start printing the moment the temp is stable the "gap" is different than if you let the printer sit "at temp" for 15min or so and then start printing. In any event, do the bed level at the temperature conditions you will be working at... always printing on first fire up? Do the bed level immediately after you've hit temp. In my case I ALWAYS let the printer idle at full bed temp for 15min before starting to print, and that is the point in time I did the bed level. That way if I abort a print shortly after starting, or immediately launch into another print, I don't have to worry about waiting for thermal expansion on a "cold" printer...
That could be. I have typically done my bed leveling after heating the bed to 60 and nozzle to something like 140 (so it doesn't ooze) but I haven't let it just soak heat at full temp for 15 minutes. I installed the latest firmware (turns out I was not on the latest) and still having some issues, but I actually now suspect there's more going on. I get a lot of gooeyness that strings and globs all over the bed even at lower temperatures and that's destroying adhesion. Once I get the initial layer down it's all fine from there, but that first layer is a doozy. I'm using Overture matte PLA filament fresh out of the box and it's consistently happened with six rolls ordered on different occasions. I get slightly better results at higher temperatures (225 nozzle / 70 bed) but then more stringing. So, I'm not sure if maybe it's the filament or retraction or bed leveling or flow or something else entirely. I'm just not experienced enough to know what I'm looking at when it's going wrong.
My Max is in an enclosure, and I run the bed at 100C printing ABS, so these thermal issues are even more magnified. I chased this issue for days when I first started printing, but having a consistent approach to WHEN I start printing vs WHEN I did the bed level was the key to success. Again, let the whole printer come to temp and stay there for 15min, then do a bed level, then always start your printing run after a 15min warm up and this Z offset issue will go away. I do have another alternate bed level profile in Klipper/Mainsail that was taken just at first bed warm-up to temp, but I only did that after I understood the full issue, and you darn well sure don't want to get the profiles mixed up... :)
Hey Awesome video can't wait to see more. Thought you should know at 15:30 your volume changed and went quieter.
Can a computer-savvy beginner use this machine?
15:29 I'd love to hear any updates on fixes for the Z offset issue. Seems pretty annoying.
I haven't been able to find an answer, is there a major difference, aside from the size, for the EN4Max and the EN4Pro? I really want the Pro, but it would be nice for larger prints on the Max. I am trying to replace my EN2S that got flooded.
I hope someone offers an enclosure for a machine this size. Long prints do much better in an enclosure, not to mention containing the VOCs/Nanoparticles that printing generates.
Have this printer myself and love the results but had a couple of issues. First the gantry wasn't square, I actually had to shim it to get it truly square. This was causing me to have inconsistent layer heights as the print got higher. 2nd the bed sensor doesn't give a consistent z on home. I frequently have to change the offset +/- .1mm to get a good first layer. 3rd... they used a very old distro of Debian that will not support updated versions of Klipper and the Fuidd interface they have chosen gives incorrect data like stating the start time of the print is the projected end time. Of course because Debian is so out of date, the arguably best choice for camera support, Crowsnest can't be installed. The included camera support will keep the camera up for an hour or so but will need a system reboot to bring it back once the camera is shut off by the system. I put in a ticket with Elegoo and they were very insistent that nothing of the software be changed and the z sensor is working as intended.
With all that being said, it's a good printer, it just needed a little more tech savviness on the software end in my opinion.
I keep getting layer shifts on mine. I updated the firmware, tightened the belts, switched to Orca, and it still gives me giant layer shifts.
How is the print quality compared to the "other printer?"
I have the neptune 4 pro and the quality is about the same as my bambu. The only difference is you have to manually set the bed and z off axis. The bambu is almost plug and play. It takes a lot of the manual adjustments out of the equation with all the sensors they pack in them. For a new person like my self only 4 months in the hobby.... The bambu is way better. I haven't had a bad print and anything that didn't work out was user error.
I honestly couldnt tell the difference between one and the other. The bambu clearly will print faster but im still super impressed with what elegoo has bene able to do with this huge bed slinger
@@cStatixI'm new to the 3D printing scene as well, so maybe I'll go for either the P1P or P1S to start with. I'm going to be printing a lot of D&D terrain and miniatures, so I thought something bigger like the Neptune 4 Max would be nice for some larger terrain and scenery. The Bambu Lab stuff seems like a no-brainer though, so I'll probably go with that first. If I decide I need a larger print bed, I'll get the Neptune later down the road and run them both at the same time. I also want to pick up a resin printer for the miniatures though.
@Vortex1988 for the price of a p1s you could get a neptune 4 and a Mars 3 (and have change to get the wash and cure).
Use one neptune for terrain and Mars for minis lol.
The Bambus are amazing though. I have the x1c and love it.
@@billfred_tg all of this! It all comes down to what you need & your budget.
So just a counter to the “mystery” $1200 printer:
1.) it’s sibling can be bought for much less with pretty much the same performance and
2.) Elegoo’s biggest problem is in their eagerness to release new machines, they tend to forget the printers that have come before them. Firmware updates, upgrades etc? Forget about it. If you want that you’ll need to buy their new machine.
Make no mistake, elegoo can make some impressive machines, I was blown away by their Neptune 3. Less blown away by them dumping the product like a hot coal 3 months after release so they could support the Neptune 3 Pro. It’s something they have to really work on in my opinion. That said, I still think bang for buck, considering size, this printer is hard to beat. Just please support them better Elegoo!
How long would it take to build a 4 or 6" tall action figure?
My last 3D printer was an Ender 3 & im in the market to start again. How far 3D printing has come is incredible 🤯
Awesome video. Should i purchase from AZN or Directly from Elegoo, as I thinking if there is an issue and getting a new one. How is Elegoo with returns? Also, Does AZN have newer or older models in stock?
I have a Neptune 4 max. Nothing but issues. I am on the current firmware loaded 3 times to try and fix my issues. 1. Input shaper errors out. 2. Printer stops randomly before finishing model, print head just stops where it’s at. The digital display does not show an error it still thinks it’s printing the temp still shows 215 and 70 on the bed. But the bed and print head are cold. 3. Elegoo rapid filament broke of in the extruded and in the tube below the gear melted in the extruder. I am not able to get it out with out breaking the extruder. I have been working with support for over 2 weeks I am currently waiting on extruder replacement. But I believe that that they need to send me a mains board because of my issues. Well it looks like I the part will not show up until next year sometime. Right now I have $500 paper weight. If you are interested in this 3d printer wait 2 - 3 months to see if the issues are fixed.
Have u had any luck with your yet?
If you have to choose between the k1 max and the neptune 4 pro or max. What will be your option to buy ??
Where can I get the stl for your prints? Mainly the dinosaur for my grandson. Thank you.
What filament are you using at 2:15 ? It looks beautiful
What kind of padding do you typically use for your helmets?
My hair 🤣😂 or harbor freight foam floor mats
Are the bed leveling & flexing issues fixed ? I'm close to pulling the trigger on this
im buying a 3d printer soon as was wondering, do you have to build it yourself after buying it? or do they come prebuilt?
Plus or max? What do you recommend. Just in general, take size and cost of the decision
I am looking at this for my first FDM printer. My second in general. I am wary of any of them due to all the adjusting crap and failures I see posted on FB. Have the issues been resolved now?
Hey Jessy, would like to get your profile for the Max4. I've had mine for over 6 weeks and am struggling to see the point. A machine this large needs an enclosure, and it will never print fast due to the mass of the print bed being slammed violently back and forth. This is causing the y axis motor to skip, layer shifting, etc. Bed-slingers and speed do not mix. I note in your video that your speeds are very medium. Try those in sport mode....
Yes. The dual and tri color filaments will cause those lines when they twist.
I am still setting up my new Neptune 4 Max printer but I also have been watching various videos such as yours. When I ordered the printer I also ordered Multi-Sizes Nozzles for Neptune 4PLUS/4MAX which you had mentioned in your video. I am wondering if you would be willing to do another video talking about the advantages and disadvantages when using the different sized nozzles?
basically smaller nozzles much more detail, but take much more time to print, bigger nozzle faster print, smaller detail, but depending on what you want to print like simple shape, doesn't benefit smaller nozzle, it safe a lot of time print bigger thing using big nozzle
would be awesome if you could share your own orca slicer profile :)
That looks like the sv06 plus nozzle.... I think I saw some where that someone identified that nozzle as a nozzle specific to another Creality printer (K1 maybe?), but that might be wrong. Anyway, would be interested to see if it's actually the same as the Sovol.
Hello, I really like your video and I ordered the Neptune 4 Max printer. I really liked your printed T-Rex. Could you please clarify which filament was used for it? It looks like it was a rainbow filament, but I can't find the exact one anywhere. Could you please tell me the specific type of filament that was used for the T-Rex? Thank you.
I have this printer on its way. So to prepare, i have been playing with Orcaslicer. The print times are really long so far, how can i speed them up?
I was on the fence on buying this, but now you have convinced me to pull that Triger.
Oh, I just fixed that z offset issue on klipper. My start_print macro was setting z offset to zero. Check your macros, maybe that's what's causing your issue
I have a a1 mini on order should I get this one instead
What table can you recommend that can take the high speeds of these printers and minimize the shaking that occurs?
I feel so much better reading these comments. I thought I was the only one struggling with my 4 max. I messed up my print surface as well. Ive run into multiple issues and im only 1 month into my 3d printing gig with now 3 printers on my farm. My elegoo neptune 3 plus is my workhorse, my ender s1 pro is a dud along with my 4 max. I refuse to give up on the max. If any of you could reach out with help on this firmware or patch I'd really appreciate it
I’m fairly new to 3d printing. I’ve been using the Bambu x1c but really want to get into a much larger build volume for work. Would I have a rough time with this big guy?
Uncle J...Any comment on the Elegoo OrangeStorm Giga and it being on KickStarter? I find that a little confusing.
Yeah, I’m not thrilled with that either. Excited about that machine / pricing is wild…… coming soon 🙃🤘
I Loove the T-Rex! Can I ask what the filament you used on him was? Thanks!
I preordered this machine and my biggest issue is that I just got it last week and they drop the giga is coming out. I may send this back for the giga
How does Neptune 4 plus compare to bamboo p1p for helmet prints speed wise?? I'm having a hard time deciding which one to get
Where is the Neptune 4 Max firmware update? I checked their website. Nothing for the Plus or Max. I checked Elegoo's (and other) Github repos and came up empty their as well. I'm guessing this is a custom using modified files from this and other Neptune printers?
I think I saw it on the elegoo discord. I haven’t actually updated my firmware. Let me ping elegoo about it. Thanks for the headsup!
Thanks, UJ!
Are there CHT nozzles for these already ? Also could you not print faster with CHTs instead of normal nozzles ?
I'm getting my first 3d printer I'm think this is the one would it be begginer friendly
@UncleJessy wich one do you think is bether Elegoo N4 Max or the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max ?
I just got a membership to Flexi Factory But I can't find that T-Rex. Your link doesn't work. How can I get it?
You called out same the issues I’ve had with mine. I’m liking the machine but really want to switch over to Orca. After living with Bambu Studio for the last year Cura just feels like a step backwards.
Might be time to update my Artillery Sidewinder X1?
So did you get an OrangeStorm Giga and testing it? I backed it, know tons have.
I suggest a dryer box for your filament. A dual one is my suggestion. I got mine from Amazon I think.
I would like to print CF materails like NylonX, is this nozzle replacable with steel nozzle to print such CF filaments ?
Where can we get the updated firmware? My 4 max is absolutely needing it but no idea how to get it and put it on this printer.
just ordered mine last night, cant wait to set it up, been awhile since i had a 3d printer
I have this, been printing helmets with it. It's a beast!
Would you recommend it for beginners? Looking to print helmets as well
@@dralex4121 If you can afford it, go for it. I've printed a lot of helmets and body armor panels and whatnot. This printer can print huge items.
Do you have a comparison between the Neptune 4 Max and the 3 Max?
I just boughtthis printer and I want to print a helmet what is the best setting for a Marrok Helet that is in 6 pieces? By the way all six pieces will fit the build plate at once.
Im glad I’m not the only one why has been having major issues with the tree supports in Elegoos version of cura.
What brand of multicolor PLA did you use to print the t-rex? It looked great!
Klipper already installed right out of the box??
Are there any better large print base printers out in the market?
I was thinking about getting a printer and really enjoyed the video. I was wondering if you had any videos on using or how to use the programs you mention in the video.
How do u like this over the k1 max?
What slicer does this printer come with? I'm looking for new printer with 1.75mm filiment I'm done with creality stuff
Weird i emailed about the galaxy black filament and they said its not for sale.......
How does this compare to the Mingda Magician Max2 which is what I got.
What's that gold filament? It looks amazing!
I'm really impressed with my Neptune 3 pro, cant go wrong with it for a beginner!!!
Can you Tell me, with how much Speed do you Print There with the New Printer? Or can you Tell me a good Speed Number What will Print fast and dont kill the quality? It Looks so good..
Can't wait to see what you will do with the Orange GigaStorm
Clearing some space for it ;)
@@UncleJessy Will be awesome to see! Only thing that disappoints me is how slow it is. I was hoping with a HUGE printer they would get the speed even higher especially with corexy. Wonder if they will have adjustment wheels 😑
I'm using your Patron profile for this printer and also getting a lot of stringing so any updates / advice would be appreciated. Excellent video and printer (so far!)
in order to level small portions of the bed, try putting notecards or small slips of paper (obviously smaller is better) between the build plate and the magnet where you have low spots.
try using aluminium foil folded. transfers the heat better.
Try adding M420 S1 at the start at the print to load the bed leveling mesh.