2012 Honda Accord brake fluid change and more!
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- I help a friend change the brake fluid in his car and as is typical when we work on his projects, there is always more to it. Not saying that doesn't happen on my own projects, but with him it's a guarantee which always makes for a memorable story.
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I had NO CLUE about the empty threaded holes on the rotors used to detach a stuck rotor. I've always just beat them off with a mallet or hammer but hate doing it that way as I dont want to cause stud damage or break something else. That's an awesome tip. THANKS!!!
Hey guys - that is a great work! I just recently found out that the bleeding sequence should be decided by the ABS System position. So, as it is located in front right, then, the bleeding order must be: 1. Left rear 2. Right rear 3. Left front 4. Right front. Honda’s Owner’s Manual says this!
You guys should buy an impact driver for the rotor screws. Absolutely magical tool if you know how to apply it.
Those rotor retainer screws can be a real pain to get out. Thankfully they are very cheap to replace if damaged and many mechanics dont even bother to put them back in since the rotor is held in place after assembly by the 5 lug nuts. Many people say the rotor retainer screws are really just used on the assembly line when the car is being built to hold the rotors in place. I've put them back together without the screws and never had an issue but they are helpful just to hold the rotor in place while doing a brake job. Anyway another tip/trick when the screw strips or is seized is to use a center punch and hammer. First hold the punch straight on and level and give it a hard hit with hammer to make a deep indentation/hole in the screw head towards the outer edge of the screw head. Then tilt the punch in a counter clockwise direction and holding it very firm with the tip of the punch in the hole you made start to tap the punch with a hammer and this will rotate the stripped or seized screw enough to begin backing it out. If the screw head is totally stripped you can continue tapping until enough of the screwhead is extracted so you can use pliers or vice grips or even your fingers to turn it the rest of the way. If not stripped once it breaks loose use Philips or flat to remove. I do this if I do not have a power impact or manual impact tool available since they are almost always too tight to loosed with just a hand screwdriver.
When bolts get stuck I have different lengths of metal tube that I slide my wrench or ratchet handle into and the metal tube gives you all the additional leverage you need to break the bolt or nut loose. Just make sure your wrench and especially your sockets and ratchet are strong enough to handle the additional leverage and force. But this method is much better and tool friendly then the force and impact of using a hammer or other tool to hit the handle. It also allows you to apply smooth precise and controlled force rather then the impact of hitting it with something. Also when you cant use a wrench I recommend using half inch ratchet with impact rated drop forged sockets if available. I've broken a few standard ratchets and sockets this way.
Another tip if your trying to turn a stuck bolt you can take a regular hammer and give the bolt head a good hard hit then after each hit try to loosen the bolt head. The impact of the hammer blow on the bolt head can be enough to break the bolt free. It works fairly often.
2 other methods are to use either a propane torch to heat the stuck bolt or even screw as long as the heat wont damage the surrounding parts. If the heat might damage something extreme cold can be used.
They sell this in an aerosol can at most auto parts stores. But in a pinch or as a cheaper option you can find compressed air in electronic or computer stores used to clean sensitive electronics. If you pull the canned air trigger while the can is upright the liquid gas inside the can comes out in the form of compressed air/gas. But if you flip the can upside down the liquified nitrogen gas is now at the top of the can at the discharge point and pulling the trigger releases what is essentially liquid nitrogen. USE CAUTION as the liquid gas comes out fast and can cause almost instant frost bit or cold-burn on unprotected skin. I recommend wearing proper PPE when using the hot or cold methods.
Also...Even though the caliper pistons twist to compress they are not supposed to twist back out as this can cause the pads to shift while braking and create unnecessary movement that can result in uneven pad wear or even pad damage. They just push back out without turning 😀
Hey Guys ... good job. I did not see how you emptied the old brake fluid from the ABS system. There is quite a bit of brake fluid within the ABS unit. It is strongly recommended that you also get that old fluid out of there otherwise you are going to keep that old fluid sitting inside the ABS pump and the new fluid behind it. I had a BMW 750LI and I asked the Dealership to let me watch how they removed the old fluid from the ABS unit. They begrudgingly allowed me to watch and that had a device that constantly ran the ABS unit until all the old brake fluid ran through and was replace by the new brake fluid. That's when I knew I had to get rid of that damn BMW.. by the time they finished changing all the fluids (Transmission, Brakes, Power steering, etc.) is was over $2K and that was back in 2011. Ouch!!!
but I really enjoyed your video ...
We did not cycle the ABS, you would need a scanner capable of doing that. We still improved things by replacing most of the fluid which means we got most of the contaminants out.
@@ThingsBreak Thanks for responding, it was still a concise and well done "How to".
My JIS Screws(the one holding rotors) didn't come out at all. I have JIS Impact screwdriver and did my best to hit and twist without luck on both front rotors. Just changed pads for now and will give it a try in few years=)
P.s. 2011 accord, still original rotors at 108k miles and 3pads front(100%)\ 2pads rear(at 50-60%atm)
I suppose the screw heads can always be drilled out to get the rotors off and then maybe you can grap the remaining part of the screws with pliers.
The worst brake video ever
Least helpful comment ever