Regarding lens choice and camera: The most-asked question I get regarding virtual tours is if xx lens would work on yy camera. Since so many comments in this and the prior videos ask/answer that question, I'd suggest first browsing through the comments here and in the recent videos I posted on virtual tours to first see if you can find an answer to your particular lens/camera brand question. Also, this is a topic I cover it in great detail in the e-book at www.amazon.com/dp/B089SB3RY3 ...which can help answer more than that question as well. Thank you everyone for your support!
Great video. I have been shooting virtual tours for commercial clients professionally for almost 4 years. Really looking forward to seeing how you use flash with DSLR though!!
Hi Nathan. Just to let you know, I've learned so much from your videos, and your book Photography for Real Estate Interiors, that I own a printed copy. I'm moving to 360 as soon as my pano head arrives from Amazon. I'm undoubtedly interested in your upcoming video, where you'll explain the technique of photographing 360 using flash-looking forward to seeing it. Thank you for your clear an "to the point" educational videos.
Hi Nathan. Great video as always. One question… would using a Luminosity mask plug-in such as TK or Lumenzia be an option for creating the masks or is there a benefit to creating them manually as you demonstrate? Thanks!
Thanks! I don't like using 3rd-party plugins, I find it easier and more compatible with future releases of Adobe products to just use their tools like I showed here.
As always, super helpful! I would be interested in comparing the Z1 utilizing the dual fisheye plugin with 7 DNG /HDR image brackets to the DSLR method with out flash.
Thanks! And great suggestion; however, like the QooCam that has a similar multi-DNG option, these aren't HDR, but instead a means of trying to get sharper images by taking multiple RAWs, which the software then picks out the best pixels. Three problems I have with that: (1) This should be done in-camera, not left to 3rd party software to fix an OEM problem. (2) These are 3rd- party solutions, so support comes into question for the long term, putting the pro workflow/reliability into question. (3) This increases the processing time in post. After adding more time to attempt to fix an inherent OEM problem, I'd rather just use the luminosity blending technique for the portable cameras (shown a few videos ago), and/or the DSLR approach.
Nathan Cool Photo Feels fresh! Nathan, are you having any issues with the latest PS and LR update? I’ve spent hours with tech support and not one has been able to resolve mine. Open as Layers in Photoshop has now opens the last image in a totally separate workspace. Just curious. Someone from Adobe should be calling this week.
Thanks. I never update PS/LR right away just for this reason, and I only update one machine at a time (I use two workstations), making sure everything works on one before updating the other. One thing to consider is if you have plugins installed in LR or PS; most companies only test their ecosystem, but not the addition of 3rd party components. Would be interesting to hear what Adobe recommends for your issue.
More than happy to give you the update. Stay tuned. Also, I’m itching to get the Ninja, and I’ve always been a believer of returning favors. Your information has been quite a blessing. So, if you have a link to a provider that will give you commission, please let me know.
Nathan do you recommend using the Iguide camera setup compared to this process? Note, I am just starting out with 360/virtual and real estate photography. Do you have a tutorial on that setup? Thanks Leroy
Nathan sir are you going to add more of a comparison between the DSLR and Tetha Z1 where more than just single exposure is involved (luminosity masking w/ exposure blending on the Z1)? Quite liked the comparison, so thanks alot!
Thx for this video Nathan... Just a couple of questions.... 1/ is it necessary to shoot with a fisheye lens ? 2/ what about shooting in HDR in low light like a bar ? 3/ you took 1 shot of the top but nothing of the floor. Any reason for that ? what would happen if the viewer just decides to look down ? Thx in advance for your answer.
Hi Philippe, that's a lot to explain and those questions scrape the surface of a lot more that's required...and why...but I do explain all of that in detail in my guide to virtual tour photography, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/41VFeoO
Hi Nathan. I'm getting a fantastic amount of info and advice from your no-nonsense videos. Thanks for your hard work. I wondered if you could help? I've just bought a used Samyang 8mm f3.5 lens to shoot VTs with a Nikon APS-c DSLR. It's is nice and sharp but I'm getting a lot of flare spots when I point it anywhere near a window. Is this a characteristic of the lens or have I been sold a dud? I'd be grateful for any advice. Thanks
Fisheye lenses have bulbous front elements making them prone to flair. Control the exposure and consider incorporating flash like I talk about in the virtual tour book. Not sure if you have that one, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/3pzPWAs
I like the narrated video along with the ebook. I'm wondering about the comparison with the Xphase Pro S. I've seen videos reviews of the Xphase Pro S that show better detail than a DSLR. I'm trying to decide which 360 camera to buy.
Since the Xphase is hard to get (just a few sites, not the big ones like BH/Ador/Amz) and made by a small company with spotty support (at best), I have stayed away from that option.
Thanks Andrew. The reason is the same as I discuss in the interiors e-book (see amzn.to/3fN4PJp ), which is mostly predicated on the eventual introduction of flash, which is the next step in this particular video series (next vid is at ruclips.net/video/4hZRlPyMyd4/видео.html ) and also in my virtual tour e-book (see amzn.to/33nc6uH). Good DSLR/mirrorless cameras have little to no noise below ISO 500 (check DxoMark for your camera), and with a slightly higher ISO you gain benefits for AWB with flash power.
great video. thank you for providing the information. Question for you. I noticed that you didn't shoot down? Why wouldn't you shoot the nadir and then photoshop out the tripod.. just curious. once again, thank you for providing rich information. I am trying to make the transition from using the simple Insta360 One X, to a DSLR workflow to capture better details
Hi Rick, that's known as the "nadir". I talk about why I don't shoot that as well as how I add patches to it in the new book, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: www.amazon.com/dp/B089SB3RY3
Thank you for your very informative tutorials. They led me to take the first steps in this type of photography. From these I noticed you put the camera at about chest height. However, when I do the same with a FF camera at 14 or 16mm and try to have the verticals as vertical as possible right off the camera (...as you recommend) I end up with too much ceiling on the composition. Should I point the camera slightly down and then deal with the converging verticals later on, in post?. Thanks for any input.
Don't be deceived by how much ceiling is in the image. This is a 360 spherical view, and a lot of ceiling/sky will show naturally. For small spaces, I recommend an angled-down comp, something I talk about in the new book, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: www.amazon.com/dp/B089SB3RY3
Nathan, just bought your book re: to 360 ... great help. When you looked back at your pano after making it, what program did you use to see the 360 pano? Or were you doing a 360 spherical in photoshop and viewing it there. Second question: with 16 bit, the pano goes darker than if it's an 8bit file ... any reason for this. Keep up the great tutorials.
Thanks Nathan...first, like your url placement. Nice vid. couple of qs; did you use the z1 hdr mode? With the zoom at normal, z1 pretty good. CA more than dslr as expected. what is your pricing in your area for z1 and dslr 360s? i live in socal also. What platform do you use for the 360s?
Question on your sample images you used in this video. The format you are bringing into PTGUI are Tif's, but the Nikon D610 only saves in JPG and/or Raw. Did you convert the NEF to TIF in photoshop prior to bringing them into PTGUI? Thank you ahead of time for your answer.
That's the most-asked question I get on this topic :) You can find various comments and answers in the comment sections of this and the other recent videos with various suggestions for lens/camera brand, and I also cover it in greater detail in the e-book. Here's a link to that if you'd like to check it out: www.amazon.com/dp/B089SB3RY3
hello Nathan thanks for the video! i've got an issue on Marzipano, when i try to upload my panorama image it just says: "1 file isgnored, images not 1:1 cubic or 2:1" but why? the image i'm trying to upload is a panorama done on PTGui... thanks in advance!
It depends on what you mean by "tool", but I break down gear based on budget and such in my ebook on virtual tours, which you can download from: amzn.to/3GBaSgX
Has anyone here tried this on a FF Canon camera using the Canon 11-24 Lens? It's rectilinear and not fisheye which I"m not sure will work right....I happen to have one laying around. I"ll experiment with it, but just curious if anyone here had experience using it for 360 Pano to be used in virtual tours. It's an unusual lens.
It depends, and there are a lot of options, each with pluses and minuses, depending on what you want to deliver. I talk about this in detail in the new e-book, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: www.amazon.com/dp/B089SB3RY3
Regarding lens choice and camera: The most-asked question I get regarding virtual tours is if xx lens would work on yy camera. Since so many comments in this and the prior videos ask/answer that question, I'd suggest first browsing through the comments here and in the recent videos I posted on virtual tours to first see if you can find an answer to your particular lens/camera brand question. Also, this is a topic I cover it in great detail in the e-book at www.amazon.com/dp/B089SB3RY3 ...which can help answer more than that question as well. Thank you everyone for your support!
Great videos. I'm a fan now!
Great work Nathan you have helped my Real Estate work enormously! Thanks you.
Nathan you rock! First RUclips notification ive immediately tapped! Thank you for everything!
Excellent information
I learn very much in youre video's 👌🔥❤
Great video. I have been shooting virtual tours for commercial clients professionally for almost 4 years. Really looking forward to seeing how you use flash with DSLR though!!
Hi Nathan. Just to let you know, I've learned so much from your videos, and your book Photography for Real Estate Interiors, that I own a printed copy. I'm moving to 360 as soon as my pano head arrives from Amazon. I'm undoubtedly interested in your upcoming video, where you'll explain the technique of photographing 360 using flash-looking forward to seeing it. Thank you for your clear an "to the point" educational videos.
Great Post
Thank you for this video! I've already read the book and got my NN6 yesterday. Hope I can do this...BTW your home is beautiful :)
Thanks bro!
Thank you
Hi Nathan. Great video as always. One question… would using a Luminosity mask plug-in such as TK or Lumenzia be an option for creating the masks or is there a benefit to creating them manually as you demonstrate? Thanks!
Thanks! I don't like using 3rd-party plugins, I find it easier and more compatible with future releases of Adobe products to just use their tools like I showed here.
I like the link on the wall.
As always, super helpful! I would be interested in comparing the Z1 utilizing the dual fisheye plugin with 7 DNG /HDR image brackets to the DSLR method with out flash.
Thanks! And great suggestion; however, like the QooCam that has a similar multi-DNG option, these aren't HDR, but instead a means of trying to get sharper images by taking multiple RAWs, which the software then picks out the best pixels. Three problems I have with that: (1) This should be done in-camera, not left to 3rd party software to fix an OEM problem. (2) These are 3rd- party solutions, so support comes into question for the long term, putting the pro workflow/reliability into question. (3) This increases the processing time in post. After adding more time to attempt to fix an inherent OEM problem, I'd rather just use the luminosity blending technique for the portable cameras (shown a few videos ago), and/or the DSLR approach.
HEY!!! You painted the dining room! 😄 I would love to see a video comparing the DSLR to the Z1.
Thanks! I actually painted the whole house that color :)
Nathan Cool Photo Feels fresh! Nathan, are you having any issues with the latest PS and LR update? I’ve spent hours with tech support and not one has been able to resolve mine. Open as Layers in Photoshop has now opens the last image in a totally separate workspace. Just curious. Someone from Adobe should be calling this week.
Thanks. I never update PS/LR right away just for this reason, and I only update one machine at a time (I use two workstations), making sure everything works on one before updating the other. One thing to consider is if you have plugins installed in LR or PS; most companies only test their ecosystem, but not the addition of 3rd party components. Would be interesting to hear what Adobe recommends for your issue.
More than happy to give you the update. Stay tuned. Also, I’m itching to get the Ninja, and I’ve always been a believer of returning favors. Your information has been quite a blessing. So, if you have a link to a provider that will give you commission, please let me know.
Nathan do you recommend using the Iguide camera setup compared to this process? Note, I am just starting out with 360/virtual and real estate photography. Do you have a tutorial on that setup?
Thanks
Leroy
Nathan sir are you going to add more of a comparison between the DSLR and Tetha Z1 where more than just single exposure is involved (luminosity masking w/ exposure blending on the Z1)? Quite liked the comparison, so thanks alot!
Thx for this video Nathan... Just a couple of questions....
1/ is it necessary to shoot with a fisheye lens ?
2/ what about shooting in HDR in low light like a bar ?
3/ you took 1 shot of the top but nothing of the floor. Any reason for that ? what would happen if the viewer just decides to look down ?
Thx in advance for your answer.
Hi Philippe, that's a lot to explain and those questions scrape the surface of a lot more that's required...and why...but I do explain all of that in detail in my guide to virtual tour photography, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/41VFeoO
Hi what is the best program today to do sewing and navigation.
I used Kolor and stopped manufacturing
Hi Nathan. I'm getting a fantastic amount of info and advice from your no-nonsense videos. Thanks for your hard work.
I wondered if you could help? I've just bought a used Samyang 8mm f3.5 lens to shoot VTs with a Nikon APS-c DSLR. It's is nice and sharp but I'm getting a lot of flare spots when I point it anywhere near a window. Is this a characteristic of the lens or have I been sold a dud? I'd be grateful for any advice. Thanks
Fisheye lenses have bulbous front elements making them prone to flair. Control the exposure and consider incorporating flash like I talk about in the virtual tour book. Not sure if you have that one, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/3pzPWAs
Thanks for your reply Nathan. I'll check it out!
Can you just crop the bottom out instead of the black bar? Thanks for all the great videos!
Nope, you need to maintain the 2:1 perspective ratio to host this as a spherical pano.
I like the narrated video along with the ebook. I'm wondering about the comparison with the Xphase Pro S. I've seen videos reviews of the Xphase Pro S that show better detail than a DSLR. I'm trying to decide which 360 camera to buy.
Since the Xphase is hard to get (just a few sites, not the big ones like BH/Ador/Amz) and made by a small company with spotty support (at best), I have stayed away from that option.
Thanks for these clear and informative videos.
Quick question: why ISO 320 and not 100?
Thanks Andrew. The reason is the same as I discuss in the interiors e-book (see amzn.to/3fN4PJp ), which is mostly predicated on the eventual introduction of flash, which is the next step in this particular video series (next vid is at ruclips.net/video/4hZRlPyMyd4/видео.html ) and also in my virtual tour e-book (see amzn.to/33nc6uH). Good DSLR/mirrorless cameras have little to no noise below ISO 500 (check DxoMark for your camera), and with a slightly higher ISO you gain benefits for AWB with flash power.
@@NathanCoolPhoto Thank you so much for your reply.
Once you have the jpeg created how do you display the continous 360 motion for the jpeg? Thanks great educational tools.
Screen capture
@@NathanCoolPhoto Thanks ! Also I don't recall how to set focus ever being mentioned. Do you just set on infinity or another way? Thanks
I cover that and similar topics in my virtual tour photography guide, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: amzn.to/3GKesGv
great video. thank you for providing the information. Question for you. I noticed that you didn't shoot down? Why wouldn't you shoot the nadir and then photoshop out the tripod.. just curious. once again, thank you for providing rich information. I am trying to make the transition from using the simple Insta360 One X, to a DSLR workflow to capture better details
Hi Rick, that's known as the "nadir". I talk about why I don't shoot that as well as how I add patches to it in the new book, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: www.amazon.com/dp/B089SB3RY3
@@NathanCoolPhoto thanks I'll look at your book
Great video Nathan! For the ambient interior VT what WB is the camera set to? Auto?
Thanks! Yep.
Hi Nathan! Nice video! Have you ever used 6 lens cameras? Like Kandao Obsidian or Insta 360? Thanks for the video.
Thanks! I talk about this in the new book, and when/why I'd use them.
Thank you for your very informative tutorials. They led me to take the first steps in this type of photography. From these I noticed you put the camera at about chest height. However, when I do the same with a FF camera at 14 or 16mm and try to have the verticals as vertical as possible right off the camera (...as you recommend) I end up with too much ceiling on the composition. Should I point the camera slightly down and then deal with the converging verticals later on, in post?. Thanks for any input.
Don't be deceived by how much ceiling is in the image. This is a 360 spherical view, and a lot of ceiling/sky will show naturally. For small spaces, I recommend an angled-down comp, something I talk about in the new book, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: www.amazon.com/dp/B089SB3RY3
Nathan, just bought your book re: to 360 ... great help. When you looked back at your pano after making it, what program did you use to see the 360 pano? Or were you doing a 360 spherical in photoshop and viewing it there. Second question: with 16 bit, the pano goes darker than if it's an 8bit file ... any reason for this. Keep up the great tutorials.
Thanks! (1) Used Photoshop with keyframes on spherical 3d import (2) Never saw that problem, and I work with 16 bit exclusively.
Thanks Nathan...first, like your url placement. Nice vid. couple of qs; did you use the z1 hdr mode? With the zoom at normal, z1 pretty good. CA more than dslr as expected. what is your pricing in your area for z1 and dslr 360s? i live in socal also. What platform do you use for the 360s?
Thanks! I cover all of this in the new VT guide, here's a link if you like to check that out: www.amazon.com/dp/B089SB3RY3
Hey Nathan, What camera and lens combo is this that you used? :)
You can use any camera and lens, here's my video on that: ruclips.net/video/NdFWWJ6oYYI/видео.html
Question on your sample images you used in this video. The format you are bringing into PTGUI are Tif's, but the Nikon D610 only saves in JPG and/or Raw. Did you convert the NEF to TIF in photoshop prior to bringing them into PTGUI? Thank you ahead of time for your answer.
Hi Rick, in the video I mentioned that I converted these to TIFF first, but you can certainly do RAW. I only save as JPG as the very last step.
@@NathanCoolPhoto ahhh thank you
Thanks Nathan, would a 14mm be wide enough? Could you do 5 exposures or does that get too complicated...
That's the most-asked question I get on this topic :) You can find various comments and answers in the comment sections of this and the other recent videos with various suggestions for lens/camera brand, and I also cover it in greater detail in the e-book. Here's a link to that if you'd like to check it out: www.amazon.com/dp/B089SB3RY3
hello Nathan thanks for the video! i've got an issue on Marzipano, when i try to upload my panorama image it just says: "1 file isgnored, images not 1:1 cubic or 2:1" but why? the image i'm trying to upload is a panorama done on PTGui... thanks in advance!
That's something I talk about in the new virtual tour book, in particular the aspect ration that Marzipano expects: www.amazon.com/dp/B089SB3RY3
Link for the 360 tool?
It depends on what you mean by "tool", but I break down gear based on budget and such in my ebook on virtual tours, which you can download from: amzn.to/3GBaSgX
Has anyone here tried this on a FF Canon camera using the Canon 11-24 Lens? It's rectilinear and not fisheye which I"m not sure will work right....I happen to have one laying around.
I"ll experiment with it, but just curious if anyone here had experience using it for 360 Pano to be used in virtual tours.
It's an unusual lens.
You can shoot a 360 pano using any camera and any lens, here's my video on that: ruclips.net/video/NdFWWJ6oYYI/видео.html
What tour hosting do you use? Thx!
It depends, and there are a lot of options, each with pluses and minuses, depending on what you want to deliver. I talk about this in detail in the new e-book, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: www.amazon.com/dp/B089SB3RY3