Siraya Tech Sculpt Resin Uses, Settings, Processing - best high heat 3D printer resin!
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- I have printed over 35 kg of Siraya Tech Sculpt and have to process down to be very repeatable. I share my thoughts on why (only 1 reason!) to use Sculpt, the settings I use for best results, and post processing of both the model and the resin in the printer.
I buy all my Sculpt direct from Siraya Tech - siraya.tech/pr...
Sculpt print settings and cleaning instructions from Siraya Tech - docs.google.co...
Great video discussing HDT - • Boedeker TECH Talk Epi...
Hi, Thanks for sharing. We just found out about this video. The tips on printing and cleaning are amazing. A lot of these could be applied We like to share a few feedback as well.
1) The best way to clean would be 2 separate baths, one dirty and one clean and use a brush made with hair to get resin off. Alcohol temperature also affects cleaning efficiency so watch for that if you live in a very cold area
2) It is good that you no longer use Acetone. While Acetone has a very strong cleaning ability, it is too dangerous when not handled properly
3) A lot of Sculpt's challenges can be from the heavy pigments. This is why we created Sculpt Clear that does not have any pigments and prints quicker. It is also easier to clean (no pigments to stick) and to cure.
4) lift speed is a bit high at 70mm/min and you dial it down to the 50 range and it should have lower peel force. You may also want to increase rest time to 2s since it takes longer to flow back. A lot of printing issues can be trace to rest not fully flow back and settle in.
5) We also carry NFEP and that should help with peel force too.
Thanks again for sharing your experience
Thanks for commenting and making a great resin! I will put these tips to use.
Im glad I watched this video. My wife bought me the gray sculpt and its 2 half failed prints back to back, really gummy, harder cleanup, overall messier. My settings were all wrong. I cleaned too long, I cured too short. Thanks for the info cause this has been tough trying to figure out. Im literally a week into printing from knowing nothing so this helps a bunch
Quick update. Using your settings (plus Siraya Techs below), I was able to make a successful print. Thanks again. It added 5 hours which I think I can reduce by two hours at least. Regardless I know these settings absolutely work for me.
Great video again Bill.
The post process part is perfectly explained. I'm about to post process a mould today so will be adding to your view count a couple more times 🤣
Thank you! I can't seem to find ANY info on sculpt or settings or knowledge on the subject. Thanks for making this video. I've been struggling with this stuff. ^U^
Glad you found it useful!
cool video, a tip for you is to use a hair dryer to warm the resin before printing, this will reduce the viscosity and get your resin up to temp.
Good tip! I have fermentation belts for all my printers now but the hair dryer method is a good one as well!
You have the body language of the classroom snitch.
I am totally telling on you 😆
This stuff gave me a headache for a few days. Definitely not as easy to print as the other resins I generally use. Thank you for the info.
Same for me too. I was hoping to just figure it out but after two times at 2.5 hours each....time for youtube
I use a silicon spatula from ikea to swirl the resin from the fep back up. Its way softer and cant damage the fep.
Great tip! I will have to steal one from the kitchen!
This is a good tip. I'll buy the same
Don’t ya just love the e10!?
Great workhorse printer!
Great information, Thank you. Checking your other videos out. Have you tried the Ultra version of Sculpt?
I have not. I had some but for me I did t need the extra HDT so I passed it along to someone trying to make molds for lead to use. I hear it is pretty great though.
Awesome video, I have over exposed my molds in the ipa and couldn't figure out why it was decomposing like you mentioned. One question, have you experienced your molds not printing properly? I had a few that deformed on the z axis when I printed them flat. Molds looked great just looked like it was smooshed a little. The injection port came out oval instead of round. Again awesome video thanks a bunch for the information!
Yes that is from the suction force. The best way I have found to prevent that is orient the print so that the injection port open is at the bottom of the print. Usually means the longest print time but best results
Have you tried Phrozen TR300 Ultra-High Temp? Heat deflection temperature is 190C. It's also a less expensive.
I will check it out thanks!
Im getting into mold making, designs are good but when i go to print im getting deformation on my sprew hole as well as the molds them self being misaligned. What resin settings are you using? My printer is a creality halot mage 8k. Thanks
Go to Siraya’s website and download the settings file for your printer. Generally spot on.
I'm curious if you have ever printed actual masters to be used in the vulcanizing of silicone molds for spincasting using sculpt resins.
I have not, I print mold masters, then use Mold Max 60 to make the molds. I have printed masters from sculpt for someone that does spincasting. He mentioned that they worked well but we needed to upscale by 10% to account for shrinkage. Hope that helps!
Thank you. This does help.
About how many molds can you make with 1 5kg container?
Not really a specific number as it totally depends on the size of your molds and if you design to be sturdy or if you really want to save resin you can design like this - ruclips.net/video/GRPBCwUHc-c/видео.htmlsi=vOw7r7B4saxpvc3h&t=454
What about post-cure bakeing? they bake PCB resin for 7 times at 180 or 250 degrees C in ovens so that it is the highest temp fiberglass resin result on the market. If you oven bake it 1-2 hours it can then handle super high temps?
Interesting I will see about that!
I've been having massive cracking issues with post cure baking my moulds above 100*C, have you had any experience with that?@@WMBayouLures
What print settings would you choose for Sculpt in a Elegoo Jupiter? at .5 and temp 77F and higher
Siraya has a Jupiter profile for all there resins on there site.
Hello, what kind of materials are you inject to these molds? As i can see in the video it's very fluid and you inject them with syringe, so i'm guessing not a thermoplastic?
It is plastisol for making soft plastic fishing lures. ModBot has a video on using Sculpt and injecting Thermoplastics - ruclips.net/video/HZWur0ilVsA/видео.html
@@WMBayouLures I've never heard of plastisol, do you have a video about how to prepare and inject plastisol? Thank you for the reply :)
Have you had any experience using simple green when post processing your molds?
I used mean green a few times but it was awhile ago. It didn't seem to clean Sculpt as well as denatured alcohol but of course it is a lot nicer to work with.
what are your settings for the saturn? tried twice so far with molds and they failed sticking to the fep. Im using siraya techs settings of like 4.2 exposure time and 45s bottom exposure time. Also using a magnetic plate
You could try to download the config file for the Saturn from Siraya Tech located here - docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1x7C0EGoT6PBUJXf3Mk_FFLEfXUAP9Z9SOTX19fMH15A/edit#gid=0
Those numbers sound reasonable(even a bit hig) I had a magnetic build plate on my Saturn and I could never get it to work for molds, I think it is too much pull force. I could be wrong but once I removed the magnetic plate I got got prints.
@@WMBayouLures hmm ok I might have to remove the magnet than because I think that's the file I downloaded and have in chitubox last year, was a whole bunch of profiles from sirayatech for the Saturn
Hi, i want to print large moulds with 0,8 mm layers, to increase speed, which setting you suggest? Also it would be enough 7 mm of wall thickness to withstand 120 degrees temperature?
You will need to test exposure, I can't give you an answer other than longer exposure the ticker the layer.
7mm might work but I would be concerned about the strength and rigidity of the mold. Resin is fairly flexible compared to metals and you sometimes need to apply pressure to get it to lay flat in certain areas. with thin walls this could be an issues.
Don't let me stop you from trying though, I would love to hear your results!
@@WMBayouLures i am planning about printing hollowed pieces, with 7 mm wall thickness and fullfill them with sand, what you think about it?
@@giulioindio worth a try for sure! Just make sure you get all the resin cured inside the hollow area. Can’t wait to see the results!
What is the hardware you are using to join the two sides of the mold together?
I use M5 bolts and rivet nuts. Overview in the mold making process is here - Let's make a lure mold in Fusion 360! Step-by-step
@@WMBayouLures Thank you. I may not be making lures but I am making 3d printed molds. You've been a tremendous help. Greatly appreciate you taking the time to make these videos.
I'm presuming you use a Mono screen printer - what's your normal exposure?
Yes Epax E10 Mono screen, setting are at 03:47
@@WMBayouLures Thanks buddy
First comment dub
Thanks man great spending time with you and your classmates today! You guys where awesome!