Learned some more! Never would have thought of using the parting tool myself. Worked great ! Didn't understand why you were doing the friction drive until you explained at the end. About a year ago I made some replacement pulleys for my 50 inch mower deck. I used a old cast pulley and my antique screw press and stamped my on pulley halves then bored them to fit the original hubs. Took me about 2 long days, but didn't have to buy anything except for the new belts and the 39 year old mower is going strong. Stamped the pulleys from an old American made window a/c housing. Never throw anything away !
After all the mechanical work I've done and all the belts I've changed I've never thought about the geometry of belts and pulleys. This is some pretty cool information. Thanks Keith.
I just love the way that you say it is a "small and quickie" job.....it lasts for 46 minutes and that is with editing....thanks for taking the time to post.
every time i watch one of your videos i learn something !!! thanks for all the effort you put into them !!!! i just wish that as a one man band that you are you would show me how you have enough hours in the day to do all you do !!! because i can never find enough hours in the day !!!
Keith, I always wondered why there was a second 'witness' mark on the compound, all is now clear + I learned more, you have so much to offer and I really appreciate your contributions. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland.
Thanks for another great and instructive video Keith. I was aware that the angles varied with diameter but I really didn't know why. Your initial "class" explaining the theory made the light bulb come on. Thanks again!
Hi Keith Something new I have learned with using the friction drive it's always worth watching your videos just to pick up something to put in my memory tool box. Dave
thanks for the videos keith. i'm building a hotrod myself and at times you can't find the exact part you want so seeing these clips gives me an idea on how to do it. cheers and "GET IT DONE"
Great video Keith. For some time I have wondered how many more uses there are for the parting tool. Side load was one of the primary questions I always had. Thanks.
Very well done and very informative. Not an area I have a lot of experience with, so extremely valuable To Me. Once again a triumph of clarity. Thanks!
Good stuff Mr. Fenner. I always pick out something even on your mill videos that I can use. The lathe videos are just gold to me. I don't know what I'd do without friction driving sometimes and you showed me that. My only problem, maybe once in five times when I'm polishing a piece that close to the chuck I get a good bite from the jaws. I guess sometimes the machines get hungry.
When I had my shop, one of the jobs that we did on a regular basis was machining custom pulleys for alternator installation on emergency equipment and marine applications. We had a large inventory of pulley blanks. I had mandrels for most shaft sizes that I could mount he blanks on for turning.
great video keith, i would have spent a half hour grinding a special tool bit to widen the groove and then another half hour drilling and tapping the end of the mandrel for a clamp bolt. the friction drive and cutoff tool were real time savers. another lesson learned. thanks keith
Nice content, Kieth. Man, I used to love manual machining 20 years ago. I have arthritis in my hands now and it wears me out...mazak has spoiled me a bit as well. My challenge is programming the odd jobs that come through from time to time. The hands on manual experience sure helped me with my approach and ability to get accurate, chatter free threads and finishes.
If Keith has a minimum $50 shop charge, a new correct pulley has to be cheaper than the work he did. I have never experienced a pulley without either a keyway or a set screw for a flat on the shaft. This was a new one for me.
Thanks Keith, I never thought of the stub mandrel for flipping the pulley. Great! I've used the cut off tool trick but don't like the sharp edge, I usually use a rounded tool steel cutter but you have to be careful too much radius and you get chatter. Rob
+Juan Rivero I actually have the 28th edition of Machinery's Handbook, and the information is still there, listed under "classic vee belts". The later editions do have lots more stuff to do with more modern technology, which can make the info you want harder to find, and occasionally older technology like blacksmithing is removed.
I use a copy from around 1948 or so, it's not here with me right now so I can't be absolutely certain. It's all I bother with as a general rule. I figure if it was enough information to make a Sherman tank it's probably good enough for me.
Like so many other things, craftmanship must take second place to CAM. Nothing wrong with that -- except for those of us who want to do things old-school.
This video will be very useful to me when I replace the bearings in the shop sander and make a better set of pulleys for it at the same time. Thanks for the always perfect video
"Sharpie-Em", ha ha. Yeah, there is a little bit of info regarding V-belts: their width, taper, horsepower etc. Great to see you open up people's eyes to the V-belt world!
Nice hack (flipping) for working a symmetrical pulley. If I were doing that sort of work very often, I would make myself a parting blade with small radii on the corners. I think it would make for a smoother finish plus it would give a nice radius at the root of the groove.
Thanks for the video, just when I thought you couldn't do any better... you do this!! Thanks for explaining the second line on your angle marks. I was wondering if that was an error correction or something like that.
Great job very informative, this gave me some good ideas for some some pulleys I have to make. Only suggestion the camera was moving like you were on the ocean just a little bit but enough to give me that queasy feeling. Lol keep up the good job we appreciate.
My only comment is you should see some of the others. Hand held and there is so much movement might be off shore! Great video with nothing left out. I teach and am no where a good a you are. Thanks so much for sharing. Rick
I have ground form toolbits for every size V belts as in my 60+ years working in a machine shop you might make 20 pulleys a day and in all different belt sizes and I also have a belt gage set supplied to me from Gates Belts
Thanks for the video it is always good to see your work. I have a question on the two faces used to spin the part should they be smooth or be a little ruff? where smooth = close to ground. and ruff = something you could just feel with finger nail. Have a day
I looked through the comments and also online searched to see if/and why a belt isn't supposed to ride on the root of the V-groove, but couldn't find a suitable answer...or any answer really. So, am I correct in understanding you to say that the belt is supposed to only grip the pulley on the sides, and should have clearance at the root? Thanks in advance if you find the time to answer, I know how many questions you must get. Also, I liked the usage of your parting blade, very cool adaptation. I really need to get one of those insert blades for grooving and finicky work like this, so thanks for the push :) Thanks for everything, Aloha...Chuck.
+Knolltop Farms Hi Chuck, If the belt was able to bottom out in the grove, then is would only grip as if it was a 1/4" flat belt or so! It is like a pipe thread designed to always have a positive contact. ;{)-------
Ah-ha! See that makes total sense to me now, thank you for the perfect explanation, I really appreciate it. You are really an excellent teacher Keith...or should I call you Professor Fenner? LOL! Have a great weekend man...Aloha
+Knolltop Farms It works like a wedge. Tension on the belt pulls it down into the groove, and the steep angle of the sides generates a lot more pressure than if the same tension was just pulling it flat onto the pulley. That pressure creates the friction to transmit power without slipping.
I found your site in March and have watched all but a few which dealt with things I won't be doing. I like your teaching style. I am a beginner who has read books for about 10 years and then obtained a lathe. I have been playing with it for a coup[le years now have had a lot of questions. Your videos answer most of them. What type of oil do you use on the lathe? Could you do a demonstration on how to use a fly cutter? Thank you.
+Keith Fenner Thank you Keith for responding. I know you mention what type of oils you use but I have a slight hearing problem in that certain frequencies come out garbled. Its irritating to me and others at times. Again I appreciate your help.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. But I did notice before you modified the pulley it seemed to have a pretty substantial radius at the bottom of the groove. After widening, the bottom had two pretty sharp corners. Is there any concern with a possible fatigue crack starting there?
I think that I can see that the parting tool height is below centre but not how much. I know that tools cut better with better clearance like this but would like an expert comment on how you decide what tool height to use.
+dense505crew I use just enough to insure I am below on outside diameters and just above on most inside boring operations, so the chance of sucking the bit and causing tool failure or scraping the part, is a not a possibility. ;{)------
How did the customer know that they needed an "A" pulley is that something you had to educate them on Also I loved the use of the reference material the machinists handbook I think there should be more of this type of reference
Did you true up the blank off camera, or did it not matter since it was a one time job and you were machining the mandrill as true for the center of the pulley?
Question. When you deepened the bottom of the V-groove why didn't you just traverse towards the chuck and clean up the other side instead of rotating the obverse of pulley and doing it?
+Phil Deeds The transmission on a boat is called the gear, just forward, neutral and reverse, some my have a trolling attachment that gives a range of speed below a normal idle. The gear is made to handle the thrust in both directions. ;{)------
Wonder who is the jackass that gives us all thumb down on every video most of us creators do... He could just stop watching, so simple... lol Good project, like the approach... The newer handbooks are still very complete with pulley data...
If you absolutley have to, I guess its better to make the gap that hold the belt deeper, rather than shallower. I imagine, this is my own theory, that the grip on the belt will be better. To make it to shallow, I Picture to myself, that the sides wont grip and that there will be a slip that eventually will wear the belt out or burn it to oblivion.
+new and old tech Most stamped out pulleys now a days are V shape to the bottom of the grove, a proper fit belt always has clearance under the belt. ;{)-----
For what it's worth Kieth, I've long considered myself the world's worst living hangglider pilot - like you I was overcome by common sense and got out of the sport before, well, you know....
Keith, not good to wear long sleeves so close to the lathe chuck. Too many accidents happen. And, get rid of the wrist watch. Safety first, don't be complacent.
Great to see another Tahiti Tiger Hatchback out there, let alone finding one while watching a machining video! I restored a 74' a few years back and my step Dad has a 75'. Great boats! Thousands of Tahiti's out there, but not very many of the hatchbacks with the engine cover. www.flickr.com/photos/125556024@N05/14444667806/in/album-72157645220236636/
+warlley nascimento sousa I'm glad you do and I check what you have to say in the translator. It may sometimes take an extra minute, but I enjoy the share, sometimes I even learn a little bit. Cheers, ;{)------
Learned some more! Never would have thought of using the parting tool myself. Worked great ! Didn't understand why you were doing the friction drive until you explained at the end. About a year ago I made some replacement pulleys for my 50 inch mower deck. I used a old cast pulley and my antique screw press and stamped my on pulley halves then bored them to fit the original hubs. Took me about 2 long days, but didn't have to buy anything except for the new belts and the 39 year old mower is going strong. Stamped the pulleys from an old American made window a/c housing. Never throw anything away !
After all the mechanical work I've done and all the belts I've changed I've never thought about the geometry of belts and pulleys. This is some pretty cool information. Thanks Keith.
Good job Mr. Fenner showing the correct way doing a job.
I love how you go in depth explaining what and how you do something, I wish the other guys did it like you
I like the friction drive setup.
More of those tips please.
Thanks for sharing your years of hard work.
I just love the way that you say it is a "small and quickie" job.....it lasts for 46 minutes and that is with editing....thanks for taking the time to post.
every time i watch one of your videos i learn something !!! thanks for all the effort you put into them !!!! i just wish that as a one man band that you are you would show me how you have enough hours in the day to do all you do !!! because i can never find enough hours in the day !!!
Keith, I always wondered why there was a second 'witness' mark on the compound, all is now clear + I learned more, you have so much to offer and I really appreciate your contributions. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland.
Thanks for another great and instructive video Keith. I was aware that the angles varied with diameter but I really didn't know why. Your initial "class" explaining the theory made the light bulb come on. Thanks again!
Hi Keith
Something new I have learned with using the friction drive it's always worth watching your videos just to pick up something to put in my memory tool box.
Dave
Keith always enjoy the chat before the video and reviewing your planning and research using the vintage machinist handbook. Thanks - Gary
Respect keith your videos are most detailed and most informative
thanks for the videos keith. i'm building a hotrod myself and at times you can't find the exact part you want so seeing these clips gives me an idea on how to do it. cheers and "GET IT DONE"
Great video Keith. For some time I have wondered how many more uses there are for the parting tool. Side load was one of the primary questions I always had. Thanks.
Good one Keith for the new people so they can think out of the box. Can't remember
buying a pulley, myself all done with a parting tool. sam
Very well done and very informative. Not an area I have a lot of experience with, so extremely valuable To Me. Once again a triumph of clarity. Thanks!
Good stuff Mr. Fenner. I always pick out something even on your mill videos that I can use. The lathe videos are just gold to me. I don't know what I'd do without friction driving sometimes and you showed me that. My only problem, maybe once in five times when I'm polishing a piece that close to the chuck I get a good bite from the jaws. I guess sometimes the machines get hungry.
excellent video Keith , i never knew about the v angle changing with the size of the pulley .learn something new every day !
When I had my shop, one of the jobs that we did on a regular basis was machining custom pulleys for alternator installation on emergency equipment and marine applications. We had a large inventory of pulley blanks. I had mandrels for most shaft sizes that I could mount he blanks on for turning.
Like the friction fitting and the use of cutoff tool. Good job thanks. Easier than grinding a tool
great video keith, i would have spent a half hour grinding a special tool bit to widen the groove and then another half hour drilling and tapping the end of the mandrel for a clamp bolt. the friction drive and cutoff tool were real time savers. another lesson learned. thanks keith
Very pedagogical, as usual, you're the best.
Nice content, Kieth. Man, I used to love manual machining 20 years ago. I have arthritis in my hands now and it wears me out...mazak has spoiled me a bit as well. My challenge is programming the odd jobs that come through from time to time. The hands on manual experience sure helped me with my approach and ability to get accurate, chatter free threads and finishes.
If Keith has a minimum $50 shop charge, a new correct pulley has to be cheaper than the work he did. I have never experienced a pulley without either a keyway or a set screw for a flat on the shaft. This was a new one for me.
Great vid. The Master is back! Really liked your prensentation.
Outstanding tutorial in multiple procedures! Sweet job!!! Thanks Keith!!!
Great job on the pulley. It is good to see that no job is too small to check the book and get it done right. Keep on keeping on.
Good for my next project, right on time. As always thanks. Alot to learn, you make it much easier.
That was a nice little job there Keith.
Thanks Keith,
I never thought of the stub mandrel for flipping the pulley. Great!
I've used the cut off tool trick but don't like the sharp edge, I usually use a rounded tool steel cutter but you have to be careful too much radius and you get chatter.
Rob
The more I see the more I think that with Machinery's Handbook, it's like wine. Vintage is better.
+Juan Rivero I actually have the 28th edition of Machinery's Handbook, and the information is still there, listed under "classic vee belts". The later editions do have lots more stuff to do with more modern technology, which can make the info you want harder to find, and occasionally older technology like blacksmithing is removed.
I use a copy from around 1948 or so, it's not here with me right now so I can't be absolutely certain. It's all I bother with as a general rule. I figure if it was enough information to make a Sherman tank it's probably good enough for me.
Like so many other things, craftmanship must take second place to CAM. Nothing wrong with that -- except for those of us who want to do things old-school.
This video will be very useful to me when I replace the bearings in the shop sander and make a better set of pulleys for it at the same time.
Thanks for the always perfect video
"Sharpie-Em", ha ha. Yeah, there is a little bit of info regarding V-belts: their width, taper, horsepower etc. Great to see you open up people's eyes to the V-belt world!
السلام عليكم ورحمة الله وبركاته
جيد جدا
Lots of good tips here! Thanks Keith!
As always another very good video, thanks Keith.
I learn so much from you . Thank you! Great job
Really like the friction drive technique :-) Simple and effective, and I will be using it in the future!!
Thanks!
Oldie but Goodie Video, always great Keith, Chers form Florida, Paul
Nice work Keith.
Nice hack (flipping) for working a symmetrical pulley.
If I were doing that sort of work very often, I would make myself a parting blade with small radii on the corners. I think it would make for a smoother finish plus it would give a nice radius at the root of the groove.
I enjoyed Keith , I might give this a try on my lathe ..Thumbs up !!
Keith, please do a video or a series of videos when you do the "tune up' on your lathe.
Turned out real nice.
Hi Keith, I'm glad that I had my safety glasses on because you were throwingchips off of the pulley all over my keyboard. >Joe, BaltoMD.
Great stuff Keith, thank you
Thanks for the video, just when I thought you couldn't do any better... you do this!! Thanks for explaining the second line on your angle marks. I was wondering if that was an error correction or something like that.
Love the labor sign, I always hang an old sign i found at a garage sale saying 25/hr if i fix it, 35/hr if you watch, 55/hr if you help lol.
nice work Keith!
neat with the parting tool!
thanks for the vid,
-toly
I wait for the vids, keep them coming!!!
Thanks Keith for your video's. will you be adding a video on how to get work done at turnwright?
Keith I'm still flipping my rule over to figure the thousands you must know what every 32nd is on the rule, good video as always
I made a complete new pulley from some home casted aluminium. Wasn't that hard I think. Thanks for the video.
Thankyou Keith
Thanks for the videos Keith. By the sound of the lathe motor it's a bit tired.
+Duncan “DunMac” Mac Straight spur gear lathe has that sound from get go! 58 years old. ;{)------
58 years and running strong, I wish I could say the same thing about myself! lol.
Awesome info,great vid!
always learning something here
Great informative video keep them coming!
Enjoyed...thanks for the lessons!
Great video
Great job very informative, this gave me some good ideas for some some pulleys I have to make. Only suggestion the camera was moving like you were on the ocean just a little bit but enough to give me that queasy feeling. Lol keep up the good job we appreciate.
+1973mre It was hanging about 7 feet down from the ceiling, and the breeze was causing a little movement.
;{)------
My only comment is you should see some of the others. Hand held and there is so much movement might be off shore! Great video with nothing left out. I teach and am no where a good a you are.
Thanks so much for sharing.
Rick
Great camera shots on this one Keith. Don't think you could have filmed this better.
I have ground form toolbits for every size V belts as in my 60+ years working in a machine shop you might make 20 pulleys a day and in all different belt sizes and I also have a belt gage set supplied to me from Gates Belts
keith great info.-----------bob
i love the sign that was behind you .LMAO
I still don't quite get it.
Great video! I learn something every time I watch one. I see your drink Pepsi with real sugar "It is better" My opinion anyway.
Thanks for the video it is always good to see your work.
I have a question on the two faces used to spin the part should they be smooth or be a little ruff? where smooth = close to ground. and ruff = something you could just feel with finger nail.
Have a day
+E Hiebert Depends on the quality of the part maerial, i soft, I would lean towards a smother face and if hard I wouldn't worry so much. ;{)------
+Keith Fenner Thanks for the fast reply and info
Have a day
Will you be doing a video on the repairs to the clausing?
my friend why you risked to work with the long handle on your lathe, but thank you to share video
I looked through the comments and also online searched to see if/and why a belt isn't supposed to ride on the root of the V-groove, but couldn't find a suitable answer...or any answer really. So, am I correct in understanding you to say that the belt is supposed to only grip the pulley on the sides, and should have clearance at the root? Thanks in advance if you find the time to answer, I know how many questions you must get.
Also, I liked the usage of your parting blade, very cool adaptation. I really need to get one of those insert blades for grooving and finicky work like this, so thanks for the push :)
Thanks for everything, Aloha...Chuck.
+Knolltop Farms Hi Chuck, If the belt was able to bottom out in the grove, then is would only grip as if it was a 1/4" flat belt or so! It is like a pipe thread designed to always have a positive contact. ;{)-------
Ah-ha! See that makes total sense to me now, thank you for the perfect explanation, I really appreciate it. You are really an excellent teacher Keith...or should I call you Professor Fenner? LOL!
Have a great weekend man...Aloha
+Knolltop Farms It works like a wedge. Tension on the belt pulls it down into the groove, and the steep angle of the sides generates a lot more pressure than if the same tension was just pulling it flat onto the pulley. That pressure creates the friction to transmit power without slipping.
Love your shop rate sign. Where did you get it?
Hi Keith could you show us how to knurl a bold shape or round object. thanks
Keith, do you think that the first measurement of 18 degrees was due to the wear on the old surface of the vee?Nice video, as always Thanks
+Tom Bellus Yes, I believe I stated something to that fact when going through the first skim cut. ;{)------
I found your site in March and have watched all but a few which dealt with things I won't be doing. I like your teaching style. I am a beginner who has read books for about 10 years and then obtained a lathe. I have been playing with it for a coup[le years now have had a lot of questions. Your videos answer most of them. What type of oil do you use on the lathe? Could you do a demonstration on how to use a fly cutter? Thank you.
+paul duffey In a lot of the comments in the video among my earlier videos I answer the oil question, dark sulfur based cutting oil. ;{)------
+Keith Fenner Thank you Keith for responding. I know you mention what type of oils you use but I have a slight hearing problem in that certain frequencies come out garbled. Its irritating to me and others at times. Again I appreciate your help.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. But I did notice before you modified the pulley it seemed to have a pretty substantial radius at the bottom of the groove. After widening, the bottom had two pretty sharp corners. Is there any concern with a possible fatigue crack starting there?
+Second Wind Music No it is a solid steel pulley, and the parting tool does have about a .032" radius on it. ;{)-----
I think that I can see that the parting tool height is below centre but not how much. I know that tools cut better with better clearance like this but would like an expert comment on how you decide what tool height to use.
+dense505crew I use just enough to insure I am below on outside diameters and just above on most inside boring operations, so the chance of sucking the bit and causing tool failure or scraping the part, is a not a possibility. ;{)------
great stuff!
that was awesome. thanks
How did the customer know that they needed an "A" pulley is that something you had to educate them on Also I loved the use of the reference material the machinists handbook I think there should be more of this type of reference
hi Keith.
There is a new sound on your lathe when you start it.Sounds like something needs fixing/replacing
+LoomisRex That is the new squeak of the belts that I mentioned in the video. ;{)------
Did you true up the blank off camera, or did it not matter since it was a one time job and you were machining the mandrill as true for the center of the pulley?
+soulcatch The only area that needed to be adjusted was the grove, the OD was not a concern.
;{)-------
+Keith Fenner Thanks for the prompt reply Keith.
+Keith Fenner has everything true even he's dinner plates, you should know that by now
Simple but interesting
Great information Keith. Thank you very much.
Question. When you deepened the bottom of the V-groove why didn't you just traverse towards the chuck and clean up the other side instead of rotating the obverse of pulley and doing it?
sharpie ..... genius!
How do you control the thrust on a prop shaft? Does the transmission handle it all or is there a special bearing on the shaft that deals with it?
+Phil Deeds The transmission on a boat is called the gear, just forward, neutral and reverse, some my have a trolling attachment that gives a range of speed below a normal idle. The gear is made to handle the thrust in both directions. ;{)------
OK, Thanks, that's been bugging me for some time.
good job
Wonder who is the jackass that gives us all thumb down on every video most of us creators do... He could just stop watching, so simple... lol
Good project, like the approach... The newer handbooks are still very complete with pulley data...
+pierre beaudry I use to think it was my X, but then I figured I'd done picked up an unfan! LOL God bless them, PLEASE. ;{)------
I'd like to know what is so unpleasant to her or him, so, I could do lots of it... :)
SittingMoose Shaman
lol
+SittingMoose Shaman There's got to be a job for you in the Trump administration! You need to be the Secretary of Education.
Seems to few to be mostly deliberate. Accidental mostly would be my guess. You should see the trouble my cat causes by stepping on my keyboard.
If you absolutley have to, I guess its better to make the gap that hold the belt deeper, rather than shallower. I imagine, this is my own theory, that the grip on the belt will be better. To make it to shallow, I Picture to myself, that the sides wont grip and that there will be a slip that eventually will wear the belt out or burn it to oblivion.
+new and old tech Most stamped out pulleys now a days are V shape to the bottom of the grove, a proper fit belt always has clearance under the belt. ;{)-----
your junk file seems to be better than my best file.
For what it's worth Kieth, I've long considered myself the world's worst living hangglider pilot - like you I was overcome by common sense and got out of the sport before, well, you know....
Sublime.
i would have used a armature from a generator or alternator to chuck with ,but i have lots of them
There's someone at your door at 8:30, Keith.
+MrShobar My son, waiting for a hug before he heads out to work! A ritual. ;{)-----
Keith, not good to wear long sleeves so close to the lathe chuck. Too many accidents happen. And, get rid of the wrist watch. Safety first, don't be complacent.
cooltron2 that’s good advice for a novice like Keith. Since he is so early in his career.
Great to see another Tahiti Tiger Hatchback out there, let alone finding one while watching a machining video!
I restored a 74' a few years back and my step Dad has a 75'. Great boats! Thousands of Tahiti's out there, but not very many of the hatchbacks with the engine cover.
www.flickr.com/photos/125556024@N05/14444667806/in/album-72157645220236636/
Existe aí no seu país macho para fazer roscas 5/8" 16 FPP ?
Suggest your customer get a AX belt
6" and 90 thousandths????
Minha barba está quase desse tamanho Da sua.
Tenho um projeto de carro no meu canal da uma olhada lá.
+warlley nascimento sousa "My beard is almost as long as yours", courtesy of JuanTranslate.
Não sou obrigado a escrever em inglês amigo se vira e traduz, isso mostra que um cara de outro país assisti os vídeos dele, ze mané( traduz essa)
Como habra' usted entendido, non falo portugues. Espa~nol, si. Pero traduccion facil, vale la pena.!
+warlley nascimento sousa I'm glad you do and I check what you have to say in the translator. It may sometimes take an extra minute, but I enjoy the share, sometimes I even learn a little bit.
Cheers, ;{)------