Some people might run their mouth about the first machinist that started the job. But i have respect for someone that recognises that they are in over their head and stop before destroying the part. Hardened steel with an interupted cut can be tricky. Especially if you dont have a stout machine. I wouldnt even attempt that job on my 13x40 at home.
When we had our well drilled I was out bending the guys ear and I always thought they spray water down the shaft, but he told me they shoot compressed air down it to keep the hole cleaned out. The water obviously comes with they hit water and their desired depth. Thank you for another great lesson Keith.
Depends on the type of drill rig I think, RC drilling they blow air down to clear the chips at the pneumatic head (and on the mines they keep track of the chips to know what it is that they're drilling). But in other cases they can use water and/or other chemicals (potassium etc to stabilize the surrounding sediment)
HEADDYNAMICS Yeah, it depends on the type of drilling. This is much larger than that they would had drilled your well with. They use a bentonite clay slurry to keep the hole from collapsing when drilling with larger drills like this one.
Ready Set Go big boy drill shaft I glaced at it yesterday thought it was some one else. Nice repair I enjoyed watching. I enjoy your work there are not any machinist shop in my area that show there work like you do Keith.
"re-double check again" = "once again, for the second time"? In addition to being a metalworking legend, you're quite the character Mr. Fenner! Please keep 'em coming :-)
Great job Keith, amazing to see how well you deal with tough materials and interrupted cuts without any chatter problems. I hope the guy who did the drawing for you took into consideration the wall thickness of the part especially in the snap ring groove, I imagine that this is a very high torque application and those ring grooves are a bit of a stress rise! Thanks for posting such interesting videos.
As a general rule, tapered thread that size are friction welded. I hauled hundreds of loads of drill pipe, and got to watch them install taper threaded ends one time in Alvin Texas. Very impressive and STONG
An airline and a hole brings the kid out in all of us, or is it just me? As this seemed to amuse you as much as it did me, I will send you a pack of different size holes for your whistleblowing antics. Keep up the great work and videos
Nice job Mr. Fenner looks good, glade to see your girls made it safe doesn't matter what it is I always see you taking a lot of pride and care into what you do.
Spent the last sixteen years cutting metal for the top oil companies here in the Houston area. I've cut so many top subs, packers, B.O.P.'s, inflatables, I could do that in my sleep. Reworking is a different animal as everything is sent thru heat treat, coatings, and then stressed by field use. Inserts and companies that make them each have a design, profile and grade that works best in different applications, as no one company makes the "best" for everything. From the get go a CNMG, or even DNMG with a large nose radius would have been my choice, especially with interrupted cuts, and the slowest surface speed. I've done this, and then had to come back and re-cut after inconel overlay.
Random chicken interlude .... LOVE IT. When I was growing up on the ranch, my dad made us go out and pick a chicken for dinner and then slaughter it. He said that we shouldn't eat anything that weren't willing to kill ourselves. He said our ancestors spent 4 million years climbing the food chain and we weren't going to climb back down now.
SSSSSSSSS AHHHH, I can smell the pipe dope in the room, (oil field for grease) Good memories, but im glad im an old guy now. Keith, Thank-you for all the hours you let us peasants come stand behind and watch. That goes for Adom79 and many others as well.
I had a piece of stock spittin out stringy blue bird nests yesterday and getting sucked up around the chuck and work...nasty stuff those chips. Nice result on the repair!
Hi Keith, Well done in hardened stuff, the worse is the top layer. Don't forget to feed your camera a good breakfast first thing in the morning so it doesn't faint in mid-day during an important part of the job..... lol Cheers, Pierre
Since nobody answered your question chrisandyoli you can feed in either direction, a majority of the tooling and a majority of the jobs are right hand tooling and right to left on the lathe. But you can use left hand tooling and cut left to right with some precautions (you putting tool pressure away from the chuck so you need to make sure it is extra secure, use a tail stop). Since most jobs that would require two directional cuts also require taking the part out of the chuck and turning it around, the need for left hand tooling is rather low and often only used on jobs where for some reason you need to chuck a part on one side and cut left to right, or you can complete all operations without taking it out of the chuck and can benefit from left hand tooling. For a good example, take a mushroom. Chucking on the round part of the mushroom would be incredibly hard, but you can easily chuck the stem, Then cut part of the shoulder left to right to shrink the dome.
Takes a lot of awareness to keep that open-topped oil can upright. If it were on my lathe I'd just dump it straight in the chip pan to get it out of the way.
Keith, it appears you're threatening my pension check ! [sarc] I know a bit about the stub you're working on ( I used to work for an drill OEM. ) and yeah its probably surface hardened becasue we knew what type of environment it was going to live in. Compressed feed air and an oil mix for the downhole hammer pass through those holes . DAng fine machining and a great video ! As always your commentary is great !
LOL! - WARNING! Man overboard! Man overboard! I hate it when your equipment tries to commit suicide. However, Good recovery; great video keep 'Em coming!
I'm always surprised by the range of jobs Keith receives: repairing a wood chipper for a tree cutting service ; repairing some guy's motorcycle engine ; making a sign for a local shop ; now, repairing a component of equipment for drilling water wells.
Everybody has their favorite tools and inserts, but if you do more jobs like this one, look into Mitsubishi MP9000 series inserts. I once had to face a 50" dia sprocket that somebody decided was cast iron (it wasn't) and welded all the worn surfaces with nickel rod and hard facing. Kennametal inserts would not last more than about 3 revolutions. I finished the job with only two Mitsubishi inserts in a Ikegai VT110 vertical lathe.
I used what our Kennametal rep brought to the shop. I blamed whoever welded the sprocket, not Kennametal. Hard facing on the teeth, then nickle rod on the face, welded from the hub out like sections of a pie. The weld was like mountains. I was not generalizing about Kennametal inserts, I was being specific for that job. Kennametal inserts did not work, Carbaloy inserts NO. Valenite inserts NO. Two others that I don't remember, but the Mitsubishi inserts held up, until I could get to a relatively smooth surface. I knew what I was doing, not a newbie. Started running manual machines in the 70's, transitioned to NC(G-code) in the 80's, and full on multi-axis mills and lathes in the 90's. I find Mr Fenner's and A-bom's shop jobs very interesting and kind of nostalgic.
That sounds to be work hardened. If you have ceramic inserts that will help, but all the heat will be passed back to the part. That threaded connection looks to be a 4 1/2 IF sized pin, I milled thousands of them that size when I worked in oil field machine shops around Houston. :)
That sure was a challenge for inserts Keith! I was almost cringing as things squeaked and squealed their way along! Tip temperature must have been incredible. A real Fenner "Gotter done" :-)
That is some pretty tough stuff you got to machine there. I have some cubic boron nitride tips for stuff like that. I got them to turn down some big hydraulic rams. Not sure what steel they were but looked like lots of chromium in it to help resist corrosion. Was not nice to turn.
For the camera, if you have some lead pipe around or just some lead bars, put a hook on on end and a length of chain, if you hook that to the center of the tripod and have it hanging almost touching the ground, it will make tipping a lot harder.
This looks so cool. I almost want to regret I started programming instead of machining (I did try, but my Dyscalculia dint help with my urge to be too precise.. could not be as fast as you or other awesome machinists.) Some nice work is done here :D great video (I subbed, im liking this)
Hello Mr Fenner Well another tuber maker has been shut down! Besides Adam , Billmaxxx has been shut down by employers.I know it's their right etc. but it's still a blow he did have a lot of subscribers. At least the only one that can shut you down is you,and thank you. You and others have been a great entertaining and learning past time for me. To me you and others,are by my standards, are better than most (all) pro sports. Again hope you and all the others have all the blessing you deserve. I'llsee all of you at this years Bash, yes I'll be there and can't wait to meet all of you in person even double boost what a funny man.
poor inserts man those did well on that cut and material, i had worse hardened and interrupted stuff @work but not that big... :D we ordered special inserts for that, still they did not live for long. great video!
Threaded joint looks to be what is called a 4 1/2 IF joint. Very common in the oil/gas drilling industry. Machined may of them, both single point and via thread milling machine. :)
I was never good at math but, I can relate to .005" and .010" numbers since they are guitar string gauge sizes. If instructors used things that students could relate to, some of us could overcome a learning disability. Also, I never get tired of seeing that gleaming metal after the Cutting.
Excellent job done by someone who understands exactly how to tackle it, but would it have been kinder to the cutting tool if some coolant was continuously flowing onto the surface.
could make a bumperring for the lens welded to a piece of flat bar that goes underneat the cam and mount between the cam and the tripod , if it drops the bumper should catch most of the brunt of it
When I was a kid in the mid 70s I remember an aircraft plant near my house that had long "Stringers" of metal in piles outside their shop. I would guess that the metal stringers were at least 3-4 feet. And they would rust so they weren't aluminum. Just curious if thoughts about chip breaking had changed over time.
Keith, I understand why you put the tool post block against the shaft to get it perpendicular to the work. But what if the front edge of the grooving (parting?) took is ground at an angle? Wouldn't that cause the groove to be cockeyed? Eric
Keith; A few months back you did a video about building a steady rest with rollers. You said the rollers were cam followers. I can't seem to find them anywhere. Do you have a part number or at least which car they come from? Thanks Nik
Great job Keith. Do you do any spray welding and if so why couldn't that process been done on this part? Why couldn't the other shop finish this piece?
I don't do flame spray, but have worked at shops where we did, the best was ceramic spraying on marine shafts. They were just gun shy on the material hardness, playing it safe. ;{)------
you could use that insert that got tasted to skim down that 7018 weld beat : there is a higher risk to break the good/new insert on that weld 7018 beat
"Wright" or wrong, the customer always has the last word (until he comes back to say that his last word wasn't actually the last). You may see that come back for seal surface repair. LOL - That wouldn't be a bad slogan for your shop: "Wright or wrong," or maybe "Done Wright or done wrong."
I wonder if it would have been a good idea to actually know how tight the press fit would be ahead of time by checking the ID of those sleeves before hand? Turned out great but kind of scary?
They had .004" to .005" press fit and when the customer came in to pick up the job, I installed them, with heat and green loctite. Photos will be posted on Facebook. ;{)-------
Thats because I don't follow the job out in the fields after it leaves shop, once in a great while I do get that chance and do take the cameras along. ;{)------
Why didn't you have to cut a snap ring grove for the sleeve that butted up to the shoulder ?? I also don't get how this works,as I have worked many years on drilling/work over Riggs. the shaft is for the swivel atop your drill string, okay so the weight of the string hangs from it. as from what I see if you do that you'll pull this shaft right out of the outside case of the swivel head?? Unless he has a top drive that holds and rotates the drill string pipe. So this screws into the top of the top drive.So it is like a (chick-sand brand name) type of full rotating assembly he hooks his Kelly hose to. So question is to prove this is the tapper pipe thread on end of the shaft,left handed??
I didn't ask how it fits or seen it in place on the rig, so I have no information there. The spec. drawing for the rubber seal kit he already runs on his spare swivel and we are performing on this one, doesn't ask for the third groove which would be inline with the port hole as well. ;{)------
Strange that only one sleeve is retained by snap rings and the other is free to move down over the port if things loosen up. Can't do any more than the drawing, even it it is wrong. Nice turning of some hard material .......
The second ring is fitted with a 0.010" interference it will also be leaning against the shoulder and last but not least, 400 to 600 psi of pressure pushing it against the shoulder... Uhhhmmm Forget the snap ring... ;)
My first ever job on at a drilling company was to hand file the threads on one of those took three damn days to get it to go in and thread up smh this was way before I knew a damn thing about machining today I’d make them let me bring it home and recut the suckers two light passes setup with a taper attachment and done two hours max
Some people might run their mouth about the first machinist that started the job. But i have respect for someone that recognises that they are in over their head and stop before destroying the part.
Hardened steel with an interupted cut can be tricky. Especially if you dont have a stout machine. I wouldnt even attempt that job on my 13x40 at home.
Exactly, if I wouldn't of been able to getter done, I would of made that decision in the first pass across also. ;{)------
When we had our well drilled I was out bending the guys ear and I always thought they spray water down the shaft, but he told me they shoot compressed air down it to keep the hole cleaned out. The water obviously comes with they hit water and their desired depth.
Thank you for another great lesson Keith.
Depends on the type of drill rig I think, RC drilling they blow air down to clear the chips at the pneumatic head (and on the mines they keep track of the chips to know what it is that they're drilling). But in other cases they can use water and/or other chemicals (potassium etc to stabilize the surrounding sediment)
HEADDYNAMICS Yeah, it depends on the type of drilling. This is much larger than that they would had drilled your well with. They use a bentonite clay slurry to keep the hole from collapsing when drilling with larger drills like this one.
Andrew Delashaw air drilling or fluid drilling, both can use this size of drill pipe depending on application and customer requirements.
You are one of the best teacher on machine operations.
Thank you for all of machine shop videos.
Ready Set Go big boy drill shaft I glaced at it yesterday thought it was some one else. Nice repair I enjoyed watching. I enjoy your work there are not any machinist shop in my area that show there work like you do Keith.
"re-double check again" = "once again, for the second time"? In addition to being a metalworking legend, you're quite the character Mr. Fenner! Please keep 'em coming :-)
Great job Keith, amazing to see how well you deal with tough materials and interrupted cuts without any chatter problems. I hope the guy who did the drawing for you took into consideration the wall thickness of the part especially in the snap ring groove, I imagine that this is a very high torque application and those ring grooves are a bit of a stress rise! Thanks for posting such interesting videos.
I was thinking that it looked like scrap until you said 54:00.
I bet that mariner was very grateful for you saving the day!
Good to see an old style project again Keith! Nice job.
Nice job Keith , I grew up in a small town and the Machine shop kept everybody working !
I love seeing that new 4 jaw in the lathe. Looks like it's serving you well.
Watching that lathe peel off metal shavings is like watching a campfire. Ya can't stop looking at it.
Nice job.
Really enjoyed your videos, better than telly anyday.
As a general rule, tapered thread that size are friction welded. I hauled hundreds of loads of drill pipe, and got to watch them install taper threaded ends one time in Alvin Texas. Very impressive and STONG
An airline and a hole brings the kid out in all of us, or is it just me? As this seemed to amuse you as much as it did me, I will send you a pack of different size holes for your whistleblowing antics. Keep up the great work and videos
Nice job Mr. Fenner looks good, glade to see your girls made it safe doesn't matter what it is I always see you taking a lot of pride and care into what you do.
Love those close shots of the insert cutting.
I love rough and tough. This is right down my alley from when I was working. Great visit Keith.
that treat in the middle. wow. you are a lucky man Keith.
Spent the last sixteen years cutting metal for the top oil companies here in the Houston area. I've cut so many top subs, packers, B.O.P.'s, inflatables, I could do that in my sleep. Reworking is a different animal as everything is sent thru heat treat, coatings, and then stressed by field use. Inserts and companies that make them each have a design, profile and grade that works best in different applications, as no one company makes the "best" for everything. From the get go a CNMG, or even DNMG with a large nose radius would have been my choice, especially with interrupted cuts, and the slowest surface speed. I've done this, and then had to come back and re-cut after inconel overlay.
Thank you for the chips and chicks episode. Nice mix of machining and raising. Looking forward to the next video - Annie
Random chicken interlude .... LOVE IT.
When I was growing up on the ranch, my dad made us go out and pick a chicken for dinner and then slaughter it. He said that we shouldn't eat anything that weren't willing to kill ourselves. He said our ancestors spent 4 million years climbing the food chain and we weren't going to climb back down now.
It's a Great Saturday morning when you have a new video for us to watch
SSSSSSSSS AHHHH, I can smell the pipe dope in the room, (oil field for grease) Good memories, but im glad im an old guy now. Keith, Thank-you for all the hours you let us peasants come stand behind and watch. That goes for Adom79 and many others as well.
hard stuff, right choice of feed & speeds as well as insert geometry and Keith got done what the others could/would not do.
2 thumbs up
I had a piece of stock spittin out stringy blue bird nests yesterday and getting sucked up around the chuck and work...nasty stuff those chips. Nice result on the repair!
Thank you for another lesson in quality work.
Hi Keith,
Well done in hardened stuff, the worse is the top layer.
Don't forget to feed your camera a good breakfast first thing in the morning so it doesn't faint in mid-day during an important part of the job..... lol
Cheers,
Pierre
It was on top of the stool with the legs out about 10" diameter and the fan blew it over. LOL ;{)------
I'm impressed with how well it refocussed!
Since nobody answered your question chrisandyoli you can feed in either direction, a majority of the tooling and a majority of the jobs are right hand tooling and right to left on the lathe. But you can use left hand tooling and cut left to right with some precautions (you putting tool pressure away from the chuck so you need to make sure it is extra secure, use a tail stop).
Since most jobs that would require two directional cuts also require taking the part out of the chuck and turning it around, the need for left hand tooling is rather low and often only used on jobs where for some reason you need to chuck a part on one side and cut left to right, or you can complete all operations without taking it out of the chuck and can benefit from left hand tooling. For a good example, take a mushroom.
Chucking on the round part of the mushroom would be incredibly hard, but you can easily chuck the stem, Then cut part of the shoulder left to right to shrink the dome.
I believe it"s called a water swivel. nice project enjoyed this content.
that hole didnt stop you !!!! good work !!!!!
Another great video thanks again for sharing all your awesome work, you have gotten me out of a pickle countless times. You the man!
Hi Keith
Enjoyed the whole video but the addition of the chicks was a very nice bonus ! :-)
regards
vic
Takes a lot of awareness to keep that open-topped oil can upright. If it were on my lathe I'd just dump it straight in the chip pan to get it out of the way.
Keith, it appears you're threatening my pension check ! [sarc] I know a bit about the stub you're working on ( I used to work for an drill OEM. ) and yeah its probably surface hardened becasue we knew what type of environment it was going to live in. Compressed feed air and an oil mix for the downhole hammer pass through those holes . DAng fine machining and a great video ! As always your commentary is great !
You can hear the sound of his finger going across the surface finish at 36:40 pretty cool.
I see why you quit smoking cigarettes. You just smoke oil now... Great video! Thanks Keith
LOL! - WARNING! Man overboard! Man overboard! I hate it when your equipment tries to commit suicide.
However, Good recovery; great video keep 'Em coming!
The old adage my good friend taught me seems to apply: "it was used to much when it was new"
I like that: "it was used to much when it was new". or I guess you could say "They broke the NEW out of it."
I'm always surprised by the range of jobs Keith receives: repairing a wood chipper for a tree cutting service ; repairing some guy's motorcycle engine ; making a sign for a local shop ; now, repairing a component of equipment for drilling water wells.
Superb close camera work.
You caught us laying down on the job
and...keels over...that was like a flash back for me last night...
Memorable Memorial Day Keith. Waiting for your next video.
The screeching sound coming from the tool bit cutting make me think that this is very abrasive metal.
Everybody has their favorite tools and inserts, but if you do more jobs like this one, look into Mitsubishi MP9000 series inserts. I once had to face a 50" dia sprocket that somebody decided was cast iron (it wasn't) and welded all the worn surfaces with nickel rod and hard facing. Kennametal inserts would not last more than about 3 revolutions. I finished the job with only two Mitsubishi inserts in a Ikegai VT110 vertical lathe.
I used what our Kennametal rep brought to the shop. I blamed whoever welded the sprocket, not Kennametal. Hard facing on the teeth, then nickle rod on the face, welded from the hub out like sections of a pie. The weld was like mountains. I was not generalizing about Kennametal inserts, I was being specific for that job. Kennametal inserts did not work, Carbaloy inserts NO. Valenite inserts NO. Two others that I don't remember, but the Mitsubishi inserts held up, until I could get to a relatively smooth surface. I knew what I was doing, not a newbie. Started running manual machines in the 70's, transitioned to NC(G-code) in the 80's, and full on multi-axis mills and lathes in the 90's. I find Mr Fenner's and A-bom's shop jobs very interesting and kind of nostalgic.
Steve little bitch keyboard commando
That sounds to be work hardened. If you have ceramic inserts that will help, but all the heat will be passed back to the part.
That threaded connection looks to be a 4 1/2 IF sized pin, I milled thousands of them that size when I worked in oil field machine shops around Houston. :)
That sure was a challenge for inserts Keith! I was almost cringing as things squeaked and squealed their way along! Tip temperature must have been incredible.
A real Fenner "Gotter done" :-)
11:55 "These are the ones that reach out and grab you". Yep, and everything else...coolant line, indicators, etc.
Great video, thanks for sharing.
For a second there it looked like one of my first Cub Scout Campfires; tinder & smoke!
Keith, you're a wizard.
That is some pretty tough stuff you got to machine there. I have some cubic boron nitride tips for stuff like that. I got them to turn down some big hydraulic rams. Not sure what steel they were but looked like lots of chromium in it to help resist corrosion. Was not nice to turn.
great job Keith , That was some hard stuff to cut man .. Thumbs up !!
gorgeous camera work Keithy
For the camera, if you have some lead pipe around or just some lead bars, put a hook on on end and a length of chain, if you hook that to the center of the tripod and have it hanging almost touching the ground, it will make tipping a lot harder.
Even if it is up on a stool, the fan is blowing on it and the legs are only spread out in a 10" diameter? LOL ;{)------
This looks so cool. I almost want to regret I started programming instead of machining (I did try, but my Dyscalculia dint help with my urge to be too precise.. could not be as fast as you or other awesome machinists.)
Some nice work is done here :D great video (I subbed, im liking this)
Well done Keith nice work.
Hello Mr Fenner Well another tuber maker has been shut down! Besides Adam , Billmaxxx has been shut down by employers.I know it's their right etc. but it's still a blow he did have a lot of subscribers. At least the only one that can shut you down is you,and thank you. You and others have been a great entertaining and learning past time for me. To me you and others,are by my standards, are better than most (all) pro sports. Again hope you and all the others have all the blessing you deserve. I'llsee all of you at this years Bash, yes I'll be there and can't wait to meet all of you in person even double boost what a funny man.
Love them yellow faced indicators
as always thanks for another great video!
poor inserts man those did well on that cut and material, i had worse hardened and interrupted stuff @work but not that big... :D we ordered special inserts for that, still they did not live for long. great video!
great job kieth good to see
Great stuff. The last time I saw aroom tilt lick that was at a wedding with an open bar. Love your vidios
Threaded joint looks to be what is called a 4 1/2 IF joint. Very common in the oil/gas drilling industry. Machined may of them, both single point and via thread milling machine. :)
nice one Kieth........
Didn`t you need a third groove, one for the second ring that goes up to the shoulder?
Followed the drawing for the modification to the T, I believe the working pressure and the .005" interference fit may be enough! LOL ;{)------
I was never good at math but, I can relate to .005" and .010" numbers since they are guitar string gauge sizes. If instructors used things that students could relate to, some of us could overcome a learning disability. Also, I never get tired of seeing that gleaming metal after the Cutting.
A piece of paper is around .004. Is a guitar string that size?
The thinnest I have seen for guitars is .007. That's what Billy Gibbons of ZZ TOP, uses. He doesn't like the extra work when he plays.
that moment you look away to sip some coffee while keith turns a well drill adapter look back and he's baptising chicks !!!!!
Excellent job done by someone who understands exactly how to tackle it, but would it have been kinder to the cutting tool if some coolant was continuously flowing onto the surface.
Keith Fenner very informative videos keep it up, also I would love to have opportunity to learn such a craft
Why wasn't there a snap ring groove for the inner sleeve? It certainly will not move with that kind of press fit, but either will the outer sleeve.
could make a bumperring for the lens welded to a piece of flat bar that goes underneat the cam and mount between the cam and the tripod , if it drops the bumper should catch most of the brunt of it
I was waiting for Keith to say "Hey, you've fallen, and you can get up"
16:32 Man down! ;)
comedy gold. i laughed so hard. glad he kept that in
It was like one of those dreams where you're falling. Except I didn't wake up.
Very nice job. What happened when camera was tipped over?
it was up on a stool, the fan is blowing on it and the legs are only spread out in a 10" diameter? LOL ;{)------
great job keith
10:48 mesmerizing stuff
When I was a kid in the mid 70s I remember an aircraft plant near my house that had long "Stringers" of metal in piles outside their shop. I would guess that the metal stringers were at least 3-4 feet. And they would rust so they weren't aluminum. Just curious if thoughts about chip breaking had changed over time.
Yipee...for my viewing pleasure with my coffee. Thank you
wasn't there supposed to be another ring groove for the first bush to go on?
Sounds like a boat whistle, it does!
Keith, don't show Adam how to quickly dial in the 4 jaw! LOL
That's some tough material. Dig the chickens!
Thanks for the video.
At 16:33.... Remind me to wear safety glasses while watching you.
keith nice work .
That metal sounds like it is some kind of work hardened / case hardened. Been there, done that when reworking drilling tools. :)
Take note Adam, I thought the chips reached out and got you when camera fell, that is some really hard turning.
Great stuff Keith
Keith, I understand why you put the tool post block against the shaft to get it perpendicular to the work.
But what if the front edge of the grooving (parting?) took is ground at an angle?
Wouldn't that cause the groove to be cockeyed?
Eric
The inserts are square on the end. ;{)------
Keith; A few months back you did a video about building a steady rest with rollers. You said the rollers were cam followers. I can't seem to find them anywhere. Do you have a part number or at least which car they come from? Thanks Nik
Great job Keith. Do you do any spray welding and if so why couldn't that process been done on this part? Why couldn't the other shop finish this piece?
I don't do flame spray, but have worked at shops where we did, the best was ceramic spraying on marine shafts. They were just gun shy on the material hardness, playing it safe. ;{)------
THANKS FOR THE RIDE
you could use that insert that got tasted to skim down that 7018 weld beat : there is a higher risk to break the good/new insert on that weld 7018 beat
Keith I think you will find that you can't polish a turd .....but you can roll it in glitter !!!!
I have a buddy since the 80's I've heard the polish a turd comment, but never the "roll it in glitter! " that's funny!!
"Wright" or wrong, the customer always has the last word (until he comes back to say that his last word wasn't actually the last). You may see that come back for seal surface repair.
LOL - That wouldn't be a bad slogan for your shop: "Wright or wrong," or maybe "Done Wright or done wrong."
I wonder if it would have been a good idea to actually know how tight the press fit would be ahead of time by checking the ID of those sleeves before hand? Turned out great but kind of scary?
They had .004" to .005" press fit and when the customer came in to pick up the job, I installed them, with heat and green loctite. Photos will be posted on Facebook. ;{)-------
Keith Fenner nice to see all assembled or back in service. most of the time we only get to see the machine shop work .
Thats because I don't follow the job out in the fields after it leaves shop, once in a great while I do get that chance and do take the cameras along. ;{)------
Why didn't you have to cut a snap ring grove for the sleeve that butted up to the shoulder ?? I also don't get how this works,as I have worked many years on drilling/work over Riggs. the shaft is for the swivel atop your drill string, okay so the weight of the string hangs from it. as from what I see if you do that you'll pull this shaft right out of the outside case of the swivel head?? Unless he has a top drive that holds and rotates the drill string pipe. So this screws into the top of the top drive.So it is like a (chick-sand brand name) type of full rotating assembly he hooks his Kelly hose to. So question is to prove this is the tapper pipe thread on end of the shaft,left handed??
I didn't ask how it fits or seen it in place on the rig, so I have no information there. The spec. drawing for the rubber seal kit he already runs on his spare swivel and we are performing on this one, doesn't ask for the third groove which would be inline with the port hole as well. ;{)------
wonder how they would handle that in the days before the insert tooling, could material that hard be cut with HSS
They would anneal it do the machine work and then re-heat treat it, after using cobalt tooling. ;{)--------
Strange that only one sleeve is retained by snap rings and the other is free to move down over the port if things loosen up. Can't do any more than the drawing, even it it is wrong. Nice turning of some hard material .......
The second ring is fitted with a 0.010" interference it will also be leaning against the shoulder and last but not least, 400 to 600 psi of pressure pushing it against the shoulder... Uhhhmmm Forget the snap ring... ;)
My first ever job on at a drilling company was to hand file the threads on one of those took three damn days to get it to go in and thread up smh this was way before I knew a damn thing about machining today I’d make them let me bring it home and recut the suckers two light passes setup with a taper attachment and done two hours max
The hole makes a nice chip breaker
I'd thought the same thing while I was watching it :)