Project log cabin | Dovetail joint and carving
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- Опубликовано: 10 июн 2019
- Timelapse video about making the dovetail joint and carving the logs. A few joints done already and looking good so far.
Check out a timelapse video about the whole cabin build process here: • Project log cabin | Ha...
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For me, the ideas in ruclips.net/user/postUgkxAfqpMLyFn37qcqUl0FAzqkkycQeXqrhP Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
I have seen your other videos, and i never realized you actually cut these by hand. I thought they were pre-manufactured and purchased that way!! so much respect.
Good Luck with the Build. Looks Beautiful.
Looks great. Keep everyone updated with a finished build video. Subbed
Well done ‘ a solution made simple’ keep it coming
This looks like such a fun project! I was contemplating how to do a scaled version, and I think common 2x4's to make a dog / cat house would be perfect.
Exactly, that would work perfectly!
Beautiful joints!
cool. I wish I had your knowledge, patients, and the use of that sawmill.
Very good man!
Thank you. Bravo!
Please keep it up!
Very nice
👍
👍 👍
double angle dovetail. seems much more sturdy than the appellation style with only one angle
The dovetails look amazing and I've managed to convince my wife to let me upgrade my new shed to a cabin with a similar style to this using 200mm X 100mm sleepers. Do you have measurements for the dovetails or how did you calculate it? I can only find information online that leaves a chinking gap. Anyway, your videos are always a joy to watch 👍
Looks like you're doing a really nice job and just like other people I'm wondering about that template. Could you put up a video explaining more about how you made it the way you did?
Idk where he got his template from but i came across a site who allows you to put in any dimension and they calculate the template (cut, angle, length etc..)
www.blocklayer.com/woodjoints/log-dovetaileng.aspx
I love your compound dovetail joints. Can you share the Angles and measurements of your templates? Tks
Where can I purchase the jigs you used to make the cuts?
I'm catching up on your build!!! Great craftsmanship, congratulations!!! May I ask what are the measurements of your cabin? Just curious! Thanks
3,6 x 2,5 meters
Great project! I plan to build a similar cabin too!
What are the dimensions of the planks?
10x20cm.
Finnish Playground Thank you!
What timber is that? Looks so easy to work with
Looks like Pine (Pinus sylvestris). Common tree and building materials here.
It's soft, light, straight, minimal amount of branches and has good resistance for rotting.
You can see them in the background of the video. Bottom is darker brown grey and the top is lighter, more orange brown.
@@vonantero9458 Exactly. It's been drying about a year now.
What size logs did you use to make your cabin looking for ideas on building mine
10 x 20 cm, or 4 x 8 “
What is the angle from horizontal is your dovetail jig, or template?
Since a lot of people asked this, and I don't see a definitive answer, I thought I'd give it a crack, and maybe editorialize a bit.
I tried to eyeball from a still shot of the end of the pin (log) at about 2:35. Holding my sheet metal protractor up to the monitor shows 13 or 14 degrees, but because of the elevated angle of the camera relative to the log in this view, the angle appears a bit larger than the actual angle if viewed from end-on (in the limit, if viewed from directly above, the angle would appear to be 180 degrees - a straight line - as both edges would be co-linear; actually, one edge would project as a point, but I digress).
I'm going to guess the end-on angle is something like 11 or 12 degrees, which is pretty typical for structural dovetails in wood.
Half-dovetailed though tenons in timber framing are often laid out at 1:5, which works out to just a shade over 11 degrees (11.31 degrees, approximately). The matching locking wedges for a half-dovetailed through tenon would then usually be laid out at 1:10, because the tangent of the wedge's angle needs to be safely less than the (static) coefficient of friction of wood on wood to assure that the wedge stays in place and won't "squirt" out (0.1 being less than the static coefficient of friction of unpolished softwoods by a large margin - even dynamic friction for wood on wood is usually listed at 0.2, with static friction higher yet, sometimes listed as high as 0.5). Thus, you can see that even 1:5 (tangent=opposite/adjacent=1/5=0.2) theoretically should not lead to failure of a half-dovetail joint by slippage at the surface where the two logs meet when a spreading force is applied horizontally - something else would give, instead. The true angle of a full-dovetail will be slightly greater (the plane of the joint surface relative to a horizontal plane, that is), but for shallow angles like this I really doubt there is very much practical difference in resistance to slip failure between half-dovetail and full-dovetail. Arguably, there may be a difference in long term rot resistance, but capillarity probably negates that, also, for joints fitted closely enough to be useful on other counts.
Re: the reference in another comment to the calculator at www.blocklayer.com/woodjoints/log-dovetaileng.aspx - it is fun to play with, but is built for calculating half-dovetail ends, not the full-dovetails being cut on this cabin. It also does not allow for a 1:5 angle (the smallest angle permitted is 12 degrees), and 1:5 is pretty easy to lay out consistently with a framing square or dividers - 12 degrees, not so much. Again, we could argue about the relative merits of the two methods - half-dovetail versus full-dovetail - but the calculator would only be slightly helpful (with some additional tinkering) for laying out full-dovetail templates as seen in this video. It is a very nice tool for exploring "what if" scenarios for half-dovetails, though.
You could also go whole hog and buy or build one of the fancy dovetailing jigs that will let you whack these out with a chainsaw, presto pronto. The jigs are either pricey to purchase or require a bit of rough cabinetwork to construct. Ed Miller and Fred Beal (ruclips.net/user/LogNotching and logdovetailjig.com/, respectively) represent both ends of the spectrum. Fred's is strictly half-dovetail; Ed will apparently cook up anything you want, for a price (2-ish large, denominated in USD, is in the ballpark I've heard). Fred is asking for USD25, which he promises to refund if you send photos of your finished cabin made using the jig - contingently free-ish, in other words. I have no experience with either of these gentlemen, but they both have a lot of instructive RUclips videos you can watch. Given the amount of free content they have both put up, their demeanors in the videos, and the fact that they've both been around for a while, they strike me as straight shooters aiming at two very different markets. The price points reflect that.
With straight logs of consistent thickness and height, as Finnish Playground has here right off the mill, the two template method should be pretty easy to apply. If you were leaving a chinking gap (to accommodate variable height logs or because you preferred that aesthetic), I'd think you'd want to set out the template locations from a central snapped chalk or ink line as your datums, rather than the bottom (or top) face datum seen in this video, though you could also account for the gap by using a spacer. If your thickness varied from log to log, you'd probably want to lay out one side, transfer the angles across the (squared) end of the log, then lay out the dovetail angles on the opposite side (the opposite of what he does in this video, since he lays out both sides, then connects them on the end face, using the back of his saw as a straight edge). With enough inconsistency either locally on a given log or from log to log, it's probably just easier to scribe fit the upper log to the lower log.
Choosing a method of layout is analogous to the choice between mill rule (assume everything is straight and true); mill rule with mapping (keeping track of dimensional variations of the timbers, but assume everything is square, a la Tedd Benson); square rule (layout off of one well-chosen arris per timber); line rule (layout off of a chalk or ink line on one face); and scribe rule (fit each to the other, perhaps using a full scale layout as the datum) for timber framing. Here, he's able to do the log cabin version of mill rule (more-or-less - he effectively lays out from two different arrises, which assumes geometric relationships between both the two arrises and the three faces which define them) because his logs are straight and consistently sized. Depending on the logs and tools you have at your disposal, you may want to choose a different layout method. Scribing will always work (and needs only a few relatively inexpensive tools), whether for cabin joints or timber framing, but it will also be the most labor intensive. The fancy jig (Ed Miller's or similar) will be super fast if your materials and budget allow (I think Ed says 2 minutes per log in one of his videos, but it may be 2 minutes per joint - either way, he's pretty quick). Even with the fancy jig, Ed's datum for setting up the jig is a snapped chalk line (line rule). Horses for courses...
Not that I have any practical experience in these matters, but I have been noodling on this problem lately - a small cabin may be in the offing. Or, maybe not. But be forewarned that I haven't yet skinned my knuckles doing any of this; I'm still cleaning up garage sale and junk shop tools, sharpening them and hopefully my mind, preparatory to the assault. So, do your own homework, rather than taking this as if it came down from the mountain on tablets of stone or something.
TL;DR - probably 1:5 or a bit over 11 degrees.
@@kevinolson1102 Wow! Great info!
@@markcummings6856 I'm glad you found it helpful.
Wish you had given dimensions and angles of your templates.
Thats my issue. Everyone has a jig or templates. Yes, i know theyre needed and how to use them. I want tight fitting logs, not the chinked frontier style. If you watch an instructional video made by a man he's going to show you him doing it, but not teaching you how. Watch a cooking or sewing video made by a woman. It sounds sexist and weird but, they actually want you to succeed and share an interest. If the reverse was the case, thered be a video explaining how to get an end result for touching and non touching logs. There has to be a formula or ratio for the log height vs dovetail. That's all i got to say bout that. Haha
@@miguelmarquez4192 Here is video animation of double angeld joint with proportions for any size of a log: ruclips.net/video/_M9UZorYi74/видео.html
tell me about that flax insulation. what are the spec's? manufacturer? I'm in the States...
Here's the product. I'm not sure about the availability in the US: www.isolina.com/gb/insulation-products.cfm
"i am going to show how ... USING MY HAND TOOLS", 10 sec after, "i drawing the the dovetails using the model I did using a 3d printer" c'mon!
Nice video and skills!
I prefer to build with Stodoys plans.