Had the click no crank problem... Took the starter to a local shop, and the guy said it was the lug s in the solenoid part of the starter. He sold me two of the lugs (just L shaped copper terminals) that atached to the inside where the battery cable and cable to the starter motor attach..Cured my problem and he just charged me $2.00 for the parts...Never had any more problems...
Update 2019.. since mid 2019 I have not had any starter issues and my 1991 Toyota 4Runner starts every time. I found one of the wires behind the dash (coming off the ignition switch connector) had a section of the insulation removed to splice in either an aftermarket stereo system or alarm system (was removed by previous owner). Basically an exposed wire I suspect was grounding out on the body from time to time. I covered up the exposed wire with electrical tape and I haven't had the "No Start, starter click issue" since. I was at the point to where I was ready to bypass the entire system and install a starter switch directly off the starter relay. Sorry for no follow up video on this. [1-6-2020] [UPDATE: 4-2021] The no start issue returned summer of 2020. For some reason the no start issue seems to be easily replicated when it’s hot outside (triple digits type hot). First thing in the morning, no issue starting, fires up first try. After the temperature climbs past the 90’s, I’ll park the car to pick up some food, get back in after 5 minutes or so, and no start.. I have to cycle the ignition (key in the start position, then off, then immediately back to the start position) about 50 to 100 times (this is not an exaggeration), and suddenly the engine turns over and starts up without hesitation. While cycling the ignition for a couple minutes I would reach under the dash to move around the wire harness that plugs into the ignition switch (if it might be the once exposed wires grounding/shorting out on each other). This made zero difference. This happened every time I stopped for more than a couple minutes, 3 times in a row. When I got back to my girlfriends house I decided to do a quick off/on test. I shut off the vehicle and immediately started it back up, the engine cranked over first try. My next step is to replace the ignition switch. Hopefully I have a chance to replace the ignition switch and test it this summer. I plan on either making a part 2 video and linking it here, or leaving a new update (or both).
I bet my problem is the same , I've had past technicians attaching an auto page car alarm 18 years ago into my ignition system. I got the same issue Right now with starting as you did. Thanks so much..
@@timeforbigchange9417 hope this has helped with your troubleshooting process. If you read my update in the description and comments, I ended up having the issue return in the summer (triple digits in the summer), I believe it’s now the ignition switch as everything else (besides the wire harness) has been replaced. I haven’t had time to test this theory yet, but I’ll be sure to make a part 2 video and link it in the description of this video.
I'm experiencing the same thing with my '91 pickup (22RE, 4x4, DLX). She has a new starter (bad solenoid), and starter relay, but still wouldn't start and all of the voltages looked good. I had a feeling it was going to end up being the ignition switch -- and the previous owners of the truck also installed an after market car alarm. Thanks so much for the videos and updates! I'll be going after the ignition switch wiring tonight!
@@Austin-mi8tx I hope you find an easy fix. I’m sure you read my latest update (above), but the issue came back. I ordered the ignition switch and hope to have time to install it this weekend. I’m not convinced it’s the ignition switch, but I’ve practically replaced every other item in the starting system. I was doing some more research on old forums last week and found a workaround solution, possibly. This guy had the same issue after replacing everything and found that running new wire from the factory starter relay (behind the driver’s kick-panel under the dash), he was able to eliminate his starting issue completely. He found the relay contact that sends power between the battery and relay along with the contact that sends ignition on power to the starter, and ran new wire (12AWG I believe). I’ll see if I can find the link.. Edit: link> www.toyotanation.com/threads/tired-ignition-switch-and-starter-relay-fix.310278/
@@JPL2thousand9 DUDE! Thank you! I may do that first -- turns out the wire running from the relay to the starter was spliced and reconnected in the middle. This will be a cheaper fix than the new ignition switch.. Hope the ignition switch replacement works for you this weekend!
Same thing on my 86 22r. Going to try and figure it out more tomorrow. Spent a good deal of the day today messing with things trying to determine the issue.
My 89 22re has this problem, if I put it in 2or3 gear and rock the truck a foot or so the starter will hit. I'm in the mountains so sometimes with a load of wood on it can be a little hard to move. I think it has to be in the Bendix meeting with the flywheel. But it does work for me. Would like to fix it so I won't have to watch for a down slop to shut the truck off on.
Had same issue for years…been using a manual start switch direct to starter but easy to flood engine as key must be turned to start position to activate cold start injector prior to using starter switch
My 1990 Toyota pickup won’t start if I let it sit for a week. Found that charging the battery to max capacity will start the truck every time. It’s from voltage drop in the wires not being able to trigger the solenoid. It’s a new battery and starter/solenoid too.
Hello! Having the same issue with my 1990 Toyota Pickup 22RE. Checked behind the steering column and all the wires are good. Checked all the other wires under the hood to the battery, starter relay and the starter and everything is good. Any thoughts? Starts up after 4 or 5 attempts.
This issue has returned for me. I haven’t had much time to dig into it, but I have noticed it gets worse when the vehicle is hot (in the triple digits during summer), and almost never happens in the winter. I’m going to order a replacement ignition switch and will provide an update after the install and testing the starting issue in the hot temperatures of summer when I notice the issue is almost 90% likely to occur.
Yota Doug's. So did it fix your problem or not. How about a follow up 1 year later. Just saying. I had the same click no start problem occasionally. Some times the 4runner started & some times it didn't...making a single clicking sound per turn of the ignition key. Since my starter was still under warranty, I removed it and tested it off the vehicle. It worked every time but I decided to still exchange it since it could be an intermitten problem just like with this video. So today I installed the new warranty replacement starter & it wouldn't turn on. I did a bypass directly to the individual wire then with the other end of the wire I tapped on the starter bolt with the nut that attaches to the battery positive and it cranked over nicely, turning on the engine. So I replaced the bypass wire with a long black wire & I routed it around the transmission & through the firewall to where I could easily grab it inside the driver compartment. Then I attached an equally long red wire to the positive terminal on the starter, where it holds the positive battery thick wire, routed the red wire also around the transmission, through the firewall till I can match it up with the black wire. Now I am able to scrape both the negative & positive wires with my ignition key on the on position & this is the way I was able to operate the starter to turn on the engine. Very dangerious though since the positive wire can ignite the vehicle if it touches any metal/ground. I immediately went to Autozone & I bought a push button switch to connect the positive & negative wire to it in order to prevent a fire. I used a rubber wire sealant so that the positive wire is not open to acidently touch & start a fire in case that it touches any bare metal. Tomorrow I will diagnose everything to do with the ignition electrical. I'm assuming its my key start ignition switch. People don't realize that attaching many keys together gets fairly heavy to the point where it will damage the ignition key switch.
Hi all, thank you for all the information , i have a truck Toyota 82 (Classic), same thing, a guy check all lines seems oll ok but just the hosing of the ignition cylinder have a cable who don’t pass electricity to the coil, this hapend sfter i just change the coil, just the coil, and my track is dead, i just remove the housing cylinder and buy a new one today , im not sure if this will help, my track still dead until today sunday dec 6 2020, if someone have ither ideas pls letme know thsnk you all
I found wires off my ignition switch connector were spliced with an alarm system that was removed by the previous owner. These wires were exposed and when I would move the wire while I was having the no start clicking issue it seemed to help, the starter would turn and start the car. I used electrical tape to isolate each wire and prevent possible shorting. This seemed to help as it would start on the first try every time for months. When I took it to the valley in the summer it started acting up and I would have to turn the key in the ignition about 50 times before it would start up. I’m now looking at replacing the ignition switch (less than $50 on Rock Auto). I’ll update this videos description summary after the part has been installed. The reason it takes so long for me to address these issues is because I’m remodeling my house and this is my spare vehicle (#3).
I replaced the starter twice and even installed a rebuild kit with new brush contacts. It’ll go months without a no start issue then randomly appear. I’m convinced it’s a wiring issue between the ignition switch and relay/starter/battery/controller. My 4Runner had an aftermarket alarm system at one point and was later removed. You can see a few spots where it was spliced into the stock wiring in the harness. I covered up everything I could find behind the dash (without removing the dash).. but I feel there might be a wire grounding out somewhere behind the dash or near the firewall.
@@JPL2thousand9 if you can hear the click of the relay w/ the key turned before start then the relay would be fine , mabey look at all the grounds if it's an EFI think there's 7 , ! Fuse box take out all the fuses one by one inspect and clean them check they have no resistance , resistance makes heat , other words make sure there tight in the fuse box metal connectors !
@@JPL2thousand9 on the 7 grounds if those grounds are green looking then they need to be cleaned phosphate works great w/ a tooth brush , the connecters and wires should be cooper looking after cleaned
@@JPL2thousand9 the solenoid wire on the starter make sure that it's actually plugged in ( male female ) some times the plastic clip forces the connector to one side hitting the body of the starter and the contact then you start the truck it get shook off
The answer is to have someone install a secondary starter relay which will bypass the solenoid on the starter. The reason I'm here is because I experienced the same problem in 1999 with my 1991 v6 pu. I had a different problem and removed the relay and cannot now figure out how to replug it into the system (poor me). Any COMPETENT automotive electrician can probably do this for you. I spent two years going click, click, click - up to 30 times before it would finally start. Imagine my frustration. Imagine that I have been click-free for 18 years. My problem must be related to the 25 year-old Ungo security system that's finally playing out. 20 batteries, alternators, and starters later, you might still have the same problem. The relay is the most simple fix.
Ben Bennett I actually corrected the issue recently. The root cause was exposed wires on the ignition switch. They were grounding out behind the plastic dash cover. The previous owner had spliced into the ignition wires (possibly when he setup a radio or alarm system). I taped up the wires and the problem has not returned since. After all this time, money wasted on starters, battery, relays, etc. The Toyota dealership couldn't even figure it out. It only took 5 minutes to fix. Just something to consider when experiencing a click-no-start issue.
As I said, my problem is most likely related to my elderly alarm. Incidentally, when I purchased mine with 88 test driven miles in 1992, It had problems which Toyota couldn't fix in six months of trying. Those problems still exist after 354,000 miles. At this point, it's called personality. I fired Toyota service in 2000 and I study my FSM to diagnose, fix, and maintain. Still lovin' it. 1991 2WD SR5 V6 5sp MT. BTW, thanks. There is another relay underneath the steering column plastic cover in my truck also. I'd forgotten about it.
JPL2thousand9 so it was simply just taping up any exposed wires under the steering column? I am having the issue right now, changing out 2 starters in 2 weeks. It’s frustrating.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Had the click no crank problem... Took the starter to a local shop, and the guy said it was the lug s in the solenoid part of the starter. He sold me two of the lugs (just L shaped copper terminals) that atached to the inside where the battery cable and cable to the starter motor attach..Cured my problem and he just charged me $2.00 for the parts...Never had any more problems...
Update 2019.. since mid 2019 I have not had any starter issues and my 1991 Toyota 4Runner starts every time.
I found one of the wires behind the dash (coming off the ignition switch connector) had a section of the insulation removed to splice in either an aftermarket stereo system or alarm system (was removed by previous owner). Basically an exposed wire I suspect was grounding out on the body from time to time. I covered up the exposed wire with electrical tape and I haven't had the "No Start, starter click issue" since.
I was at the point to where I was ready to bypass the entire system and install a starter switch directly off the starter relay.
Sorry for no follow up video on this. [1-6-2020]
[UPDATE: 4-2021] The no start issue returned summer of 2020. For some reason the no start issue seems to be easily replicated when it’s hot outside (triple digits type hot). First thing in the morning, no issue starting, fires up first try. After the temperature climbs past the 90’s, I’ll park the car to pick up some food, get back in after 5 minutes or so, and no start.. I have to cycle the ignition (key in the start position, then off, then immediately back to the start position) about 50 to 100 times (this is not an exaggeration), and suddenly the engine turns over and starts up without hesitation. While cycling the ignition for a couple minutes I would reach under the dash to move around the wire harness that plugs into the ignition switch (if it might be the once exposed wires grounding/shorting out on each other). This made zero difference. This happened every time I stopped for more than a couple minutes, 3 times in a row. When I got back to my girlfriends house I decided to do a quick off/on test. I shut off the vehicle and immediately started it back up, the engine cranked over first try. My next step is to replace the ignition switch. Hopefully I have a chance to replace the ignition switch and test it this summer. I plan on either making a part 2 video and linking it here, or leaving a new update (or both).
I bet my problem is the same , I've had past technicians attaching an auto page car alarm 18 years ago into my ignition system. I got the same issue Right now with starting as you did. Thanks so much..
@@timeforbigchange9417 hope this has helped with your troubleshooting process. If you read my update in the description and comments, I ended up having the issue return in the summer (triple digits in the summer), I believe it’s now the ignition switch as everything else (besides the wire harness) has been replaced. I haven’t had time to test this theory yet, but I’ll be sure to make a part 2 video and link it in the description of this video.
I'm experiencing the same thing with my '91 pickup (22RE, 4x4, DLX). She has a new starter (bad solenoid), and starter relay, but still wouldn't start and all of the voltages looked good. I had a feeling it was going to end up being the ignition switch -- and the previous owners of the truck also installed an after market car alarm. Thanks so much for the videos and updates! I'll be going after the ignition switch wiring tonight!
@@Austin-mi8tx I hope you find an easy fix. I’m sure you read my latest update (above), but the issue came back. I ordered the ignition switch and hope to have time to install it this weekend. I’m not convinced it’s the ignition switch, but I’ve practically replaced every other item in the starting system.
I was doing some more research on old forums last week and found a workaround solution, possibly. This guy had the same issue after replacing everything and found that running new wire from the factory starter relay (behind the driver’s kick-panel under the dash), he was able to eliminate his starting issue completely. He found the relay contact that sends power between the battery and relay along with the contact that sends ignition on power to the starter, and ran new wire (12AWG I believe). I’ll see if I can find the link..
Edit: link>
www.toyotanation.com/threads/tired-ignition-switch-and-starter-relay-fix.310278/
@@JPL2thousand9 DUDE! Thank you! I may do that first -- turns out the wire running from the relay to the starter was spliced and reconnected in the middle. This will be a cheaper fix than the new ignition switch.. Hope the ignition switch replacement works for you this weekend!
I had same problems on my 87 4runner. I put a 78 ford bronco starter relay in it and have had no more issues with it.
Yeah I did the same and it works on top of that the bronco relay seems alot more durable.
Same thing on my 86 22r. Going to try and figure it out more tomorrow. Spent a good deal of the day today messing with things trying to determine the issue.
My 89 22re has this problem, if I put it in 2or3 gear and rock the truck a foot or so the starter will hit. I'm in the mountains so sometimes with a load of wood on it can be a little hard to move. I think it has to be in the Bendix meeting with the flywheel. But it does work for me. Would like to fix it so I won't have to watch for a down slop to shut the truck off on.
Had same issue for years…been using a manual start switch direct to starter but easy to flood engine as key must be turned to start position to activate cold start injector prior to using starter switch
I had this problem and i followed lc engineering fix with the 78 ford bronco starter relay and it worked and starts up stronger.
My 1990 Toyota pickup won’t start if I let it sit for a week. Found that charging the battery to max capacity will start the truck every time. It’s from voltage drop in the wires not being able to trigger the solenoid. It’s a new battery and starter/solenoid too.
I have same issue on my 87 pickup. If I push start it, itll work for a week or two and then happen again. I believe it is the solenoid
Having this issue from having the truck parked for 2 years. Started fine when I parked it last. Fresh battery terminals.
my 94 pick up has power to the lights but doesn't click, any suggestions on what could it be or what can i check?
Check your battery voltage first. If your battery voltage and load test good check power to your starter and starter relay.
Hello! Having the same issue with my 1990 Toyota Pickup 22RE. Checked behind the steering column and all the wires are good. Checked all the other wires under the hood to the battery, starter relay and the starter and everything is good. Any thoughts? Starts up after 4 or 5 attempts.
This issue has returned for me. I haven’t had much time to dig into it, but I have noticed it gets worse when the vehicle is hot (in the triple digits during summer), and almost never happens in the winter. I’m going to order a replacement ignition switch and will provide an update after the install and testing the starting issue in the hot temperatures of summer when I notice the issue is almost 90% likely to occur.
Have you tried the starter relay under the dash? I have this same issue im waiting for a relay to come.
Yota Doug's. So did it fix your problem or not. How about a follow up 1 year later. Just saying. I had the same click no start problem occasionally. Some times the 4runner started & some times it didn't...making a single clicking sound per turn of the ignition key. Since my starter was still under warranty, I removed it and tested it off the vehicle. It worked every time but I decided to still exchange it since it could be an intermitten problem just like with this video. So today I installed the new warranty replacement starter & it wouldn't turn on. I did a bypass directly to the individual wire then with the other end of the wire I tapped on the starter bolt with the nut that attaches to the battery positive and it cranked over nicely, turning on the engine. So I replaced the bypass wire with a long black wire & I routed it around the transmission & through the firewall to where I could easily grab it inside the driver compartment. Then I attached an equally long red wire to the positive terminal on the starter, where it holds the positive battery thick wire, routed the red wire also around the transmission, through the firewall till I can match it up with the black wire. Now I am able to scrape both the negative & positive wires with my ignition key on the on position & this is the way I was able to operate the starter to turn on the engine. Very dangerious though since the positive wire can ignite the vehicle if it touches any metal/ground. I immediately went to Autozone & I bought a push button switch to connect the positive & negative wire to it in order to prevent a fire. I used a rubber wire sealant so that the positive wire is not open to acidently touch & start a fire in case that it touches any bare metal. Tomorrow I will diagnose everything to do with the ignition electrical. I'm assuming its my key start ignition switch. People don't realize that attaching many keys together gets fairly heavy to the point where it will damage the ignition key switch.
Hi all, thank you for all the information , i have a truck Toyota 82 (Classic), same thing, a guy check all lines seems oll ok but just the hosing of the ignition cylinder have a cable who don’t pass electricity to the coil, this hapend sfter i just change the coil, just the coil, and my track is dead, i just remove the housing cylinder and buy a new one today , im not sure if this will help, my track still dead until today sunday dec 6 2020, if someone have ither ideas pls letme know thsnk you all
I found wires off my ignition switch connector were spliced with an alarm system that was removed by the previous owner. These wires were exposed and when I would move the wire while I was having the no start clicking issue it seemed to help, the starter would turn and start the car. I used electrical tape to isolate each wire and prevent possible shorting. This seemed to help as it would start on the first try every time for months. When I took it to the valley in the summer it started acting up and I would have to turn the key in the ignition about 50 times before it would start up. I’m now looking at replacing the ignition switch (less than $50 on Rock Auto). I’ll update this videos description summary after the part has been installed.
The reason it takes so long for me to address these issues is because I’m remodeling my house and this is my spare vehicle (#3).
Contacts in the starter
I replaced the starter twice and even installed a rebuild kit with new brush contacts. It’ll go months without a no start issue then randomly appear. I’m convinced it’s a wiring issue between the ignition switch and relay/starter/battery/controller. My 4Runner had an aftermarket alarm system at one point and was later removed. You can see a few spots where it was spliced into the stock wiring in the harness. I covered up everything I could find behind the dash (without removing the dash).. but I feel there might be a wire grounding out somewhere behind the dash or near the firewall.
@@JPL2thousand9 if you can hear the click of the relay w/ the key turned before start then the relay would be fine , mabey look at all the grounds if it's an EFI think there's 7 , ! Fuse box take out all the fuses one by one inspect and clean them check they have no resistance , resistance makes heat , other words make sure there tight in the fuse box metal connectors !
@@JPL2thousand9 on the 7 grounds if those grounds are green looking then they need to be cleaned phosphate works great w/ a tooth brush , the connecters and wires should be cooper looking after cleaned
@@JPL2thousand9 the solenoid wire on the starter make sure that it's actually plugged in ( male female ) some times the plastic clip forces the connector to one side hitting the body of the starter and the contact then you start the truck it get shook off
thank you very much I was very useful
Nice truck
I got the same problem man👎 dang it
The answer is to have someone install a secondary starter relay which will bypass the solenoid on the starter. The reason I'm here is because I experienced the same problem in 1999 with my 1991 v6 pu. I had a different problem and removed the relay and cannot now figure out how to replug it into the system (poor me).
Any COMPETENT automotive electrician can probably do this for you. I spent two years going click, click, click - up to 30 times before it would finally start. Imagine my frustration. Imagine that I have been click-free for 18 years. My problem must be related to the 25 year-old Ungo security system that's finally playing out.
20 batteries, alternators, and starters later, you might still have the same problem. The relay is the most simple fix.
Ben Bennett I actually corrected the issue recently. The root cause was exposed wires on the ignition switch. They were grounding out behind the plastic dash cover. The previous owner had spliced into the ignition wires (possibly when he setup a radio or alarm system). I taped up the wires and the problem has not returned since. After all this time, money wasted on starters, battery, relays, etc. The Toyota dealership couldn't even figure it out. It only took 5 minutes to fix. Just something to consider when experiencing a click-no-start issue.
As I said, my problem is most likely related to my elderly alarm. Incidentally, when I purchased mine with 88 test driven miles in 1992, It had problems which Toyota couldn't fix in six months of trying. Those problems still exist after 354,000 miles. At this point, it's called personality. I fired Toyota service in 2000 and I study my FSM to diagnose, fix, and maintain. Still lovin' it. 1991 2WD SR5 V6 5sp MT.
BTW, thanks. There is another relay underneath the steering column plastic cover in my truck also. I'd forgotten about it.
Wow. Good job figuring it out.
Hi, please and where is fault? I have same problem. Thank you
JPL2thousand9 so it was simply just taping up any exposed wires under the steering column? I am having the issue right now, changing out 2 starters in 2 weeks. It’s frustrating.
It’s unrelated but I have a lawnmower with the same issue
Typically you would see the issue with a bad solenoid/starter or bad/low battery.. unfortunately my issue isn't typical. Hope this helps.
Throw it in the back of your truck for the next dump run ?
N