I love 80crv2, I make swords and test them and from my tests even with a light straw temper it took ALOT to break. For swords Dark straw color to a bronze temper has superior edge retention and toughness. With a proper blue temper it will be Un breakable, and still boast a hardness of 55hrc.
The downside of that is that when tempering in the blue zone (500F-550F) lands you in the embrittlement zone. I don’t know if it applies to euctectoid steels like 1080CrV2, but I wouldn’t risk it either way. 400F will get you over 60HRC easily and it will still be very tough.
Thank you for proving my point and stating what I've been saying for years, even though you had no intentions and are probably confused right about now. But recently I ran into couple knife makers and during a discussion I told them I can generally get a good idea of the blades hardness just by taping on it and listening to the sound. I was shocked that they both looked at me and said it was total nonsense. I'm not a experienced knife maker although I have made some knives, but mostly a collector. But I felt like I was in a twilight zone, hearing both makers who supposedly have over 35 years of knifemaking experience between them claim that thats impossible. I didn't argue since I figured im not in any position to argue with 2 people who have far more experience than me. However it left me confused and perplexed cause that method had always worked for me sometimes more accurately than what the blade was advertised as its RC level. I'm not saying i can distinguish between 59rc and 60rc or 61rc and 63rc but if there is a significant margin of error i can tell. I can definitely tell a difference in a sound between a blade in low to mid 50rc to 60rc and higher. I can also tell if the blade is lower than 50. Just to clarify I'm not claiming I can tell the exact RC level but I can definitely tell if its in the ball park or way off. For example I had a knife made by a relatively known maker and the blade was advertised at 56-58rc. But everytime i tapped it, it sounded much harder almost like yours did, thus I figured his heat treat was off. A little while later I tried batton that knife through a hard log and grabbed a small hammer to tap the knife through since it got wedged. After maybe 3 hits, a massive chunk of the blade snapped off. And this was not a thin blade, the spine was not quite 1/4 inch but thicker than 3/16. So I'm certain that knife was tempered to way higher than 56-58rc.My point is an experienced knife maker should have a good idea how hard the blade is just by taping on the edge and listening to the sound. Hard steels will verberate and ping almost like a glass cup. Softer steels will not reflect most of the sound back and you'll generally end up with a thud. Now you have to keep in mind that a handle thats attached to the blade could alter the result of the test, so this is best done when the blade is not attached yet. There are other factors like gripping the knife hard will void the test, but other than that a sound the blade makes should be your first indicator. Do you think I'm off my rocker, or did those guys not know what they were talking about. Cause it really really bugged me, and I just happen to watch your video and saw you do the same thing.
definitely have a ring to them. I like to hang them upside down and flick the side, and there is a ring no matter the thickness before tempering, and after tempering, there is a different sound. Since this video I have bought some HRC files specifically for checking hardness and they’re much more accurate so I can get the HRC within 3 to 4 points now very accurately still I need a actual HRC tester but they’re like 1000 bucks lol i’m just a hobbyist I don’t make them to sell them or some type of side gig. This is just for fun
I've also noticed the finer the grain just like the grain on the blade you broke the more likely they tend to break in the same manner your blade broke. Clean breaks often happen on knives that are really hard borderline brittle, but every knife that was extremely tough almost always breaks by tearing a piece of steel off. Its almost like the metal is so tough it tears and gets ripped rather than just snap. I've noticed is now on multiple blades that exhibit great toughness so I don't think its a coincidence.
@@voltsoftruthBSbuster excellent excellent point now that you mention that I’ve noticed the same thing. The Harder more brittle blades that are easier to break do brake flush, and the ones that give you a hard time almost rip. Thank you for that information and I actually explained one of my questions on this video that I just now got answered. I don’t know how old this video is but thank you for that.
Hey there Aaron Johnson! In germany this steel (80CrV2 or according to the german Steel Key (Stahlschlüssel): 1.2235) is quite popular, but also most often quite expensive. There are shops that wanna have for a flat bar (1000mm long, 60mm wide, 6,2mm thick) approximately 50 Dollar + the delivery costs. It is sold here as an good allrounder that is very shock resistant and quite tough in general because of the higher Vanadium content. I use most often ball bearing steel (100Cr6) from old ball bearings. The Problems with that steel is that the unhardening takes it's time and that you often have to put quite an effort into it (especially for bigger ball bearings) to bring them into a bar shape that fits your ideas. Besides that 100Cr6 is often easy and cheap available and gives amazing results when treated correctly. I was really amazed to see what this steel is capable to do when heat treated correctly! The Lifespan of a steel rises and falls with it's heat treatment, as you can have the best steel but with bad forging and bad heat treatment you can be lucky when it survives an hour of work or even the hardening, while properly heat treated pieces can last decades. Some of my first swords have been made from that steel and were easily capable to cut through quite big Broomsticks without rolling or chipping. Here the actual Temperature Treatment Data for 80Crv2 that was given to me by the Professional Shop i buy my steel: Hardening: 840°C - Quench Medium: Oil Tempering: 200°C 2 x 1 hour (I personally temper directly over the open fire(put a 3mm flat bar in the fire and lay the blade onto it) and not in an oven - had always good results with that!) Maximum Hardness in Oil: 60 HRC Color in Damascus: Grey Used for: Hunting Knifes, Swords, Bushcraft, Outdoor Knifes The Steel that i receive is completely softend and unhardend so it is easy to file it, grind it, etc. Thanks for this amazing video and sacrificing your steel to show us how to treat it and what to expect of that steel. I personally think that you did alot of things absolutely right, as: 1. Your grain was outstanding! 2. Your Heat treatment was controlled 3. Your Knife showed even under extreme stress a very high resistance 4. The cutting ability of your knife was outstanding and it even cutted through Steel without rolling/chipping Combining all this together i would say that you did an outstanding job and got the maximum out of the steel! Best Regards! P.S. My favorite Steel: C75! Easy to get your hands on, easy to heat treat but still very tough and good results - i.m.o the best steel to start with but also an often completely underestimated steel and a real allrounder (tools, Knifes, Swords,..)!
I know a shop in France where you can get 80crv2 and many other steels cheap. EUROTECHNI I have quenched this steel at 850 ºc in fast oil (cold) and it gave me around 65 HRC, very fine grain and surprisingly difficult to break even without temper. I've found there are several types of 80crv2 and vary heat treatments depending on the supplier.
According to knife steel nerds the sweet spot for 80crv2 steel for max toughness is a tempering of 450degF. More or less than 450 reduces toughness slightly.
Tempering is definitely the key. I like the oil temper technique. Maybe a couple of cycles at 400° - 450°. Maybe pre-heat the oil, instead of placing it in cold oil and bringing it to temp inside the oven. One other thing, maybe place the knife in the oil spine down. Instead of laying flat on one side. Still, your blade took a beating. Nice job.
One of the best steels for fixed blades! Not many steels, combine that toughness, with decent edge retention and ease of sharpening! I like ballbearing steel more, but 80crv2, is up there with the most suitable steels for fixed blades!
Probably 8670, It’s cheaper 8670 has nickel so you could make light layer, Damascus. 8670 doesn’t warp during quench 80crv2 can give you problems if you try to make Damascus with it because anything with chromium doesn’t like to forge welded to itself it is possible but it’s harder. Not to mention on paper, 8670 is much tougher not that you would notice a difference. 8670 has a little less edge retention, it would be hard to notice a difference with that either..
At this time I was experimenting on different ways of tempering if you don’t have a kiln use a thermometer with a prob Put the knife in some tinfoil put the probe in the tinfoil with the knife then put it in your toaster oven
I love my pukko knife from Finland made of 80crv2carbon steel,mine I've not been able to break it,good edge retention, decent steel,I'm not trying to break it,but I was really impressed at how the DBK guys had the same knife as me an couldn't break it,I mean hell they even shot it with a rifle,easy to field sharpen or strop too.
Says alot about a craftsman/knifesmith when you do all this testing and breaking of your own blades to perfect your methods much respect sir.... Are these for sale by chance and where can I find them?
Mostly make knives for fun just as a hobby I work construction so in the summertime it's hard for me to get time to get out in the garage when work is busy but every now and then I'll throw a few knives on Etsy. One day I'll get more serious about selling them but right now I'm just having fun trying to make the best knife I possibly can with what equipment I have I think I have more fun testing them than anything and dialing it in
The heat treat and temper can be tricky on 80crv but once you get it it's strong as shit. Good chopper, slicer and holds an edge but will rust easy. Not as much as 1084 but its like an upgraded 1084 steel
Steve it depends on the steel and the look u want. Right now I'm kind of moving over to this new kind of Steel and I'm trying to learn through testing and trial and error how to achieve the perfect heat treat something like this you're going to want to do stock removal at first Once you master the heat treat then you can start playing around and forging and trying to do Forge welds but when you forge a blade you create stress and the grain will grow because of the high temperatures required to forge so it adds extra steps and extra problems. Once I master the steel I will definitely Forge some blades from it it's supposed to be one of the best steals to forge with I guess it moves under the hammer like Play-Doh
Yeah you can do that I seen guys use coal too pretty effectively Tempering. Lately I’ve been using tinfoil wrapping up tonight with a temperature probe and putting it in the toaster oven seems to be working pretty good
@@AaronJohnson1979 how hard is the steel to work I’ve never done any of that I’ve been think about making a a full tang hatchet/axe for camping but I’d have to learn and work my way up to that skill
Now this is testing knife steel. Not one stupid hemp rope cut in the whole video. I can’t stand watching someone cut rope 1000 times. It doesn’t matter what really matters is if your edge can cut though hard shit like bone antler or mild steel. Also looks like your blade was holding up pretty good at the end. What ever you did with that torch seemed to work. Stick with that I’d say. Also maybe try doing just an edge quench that way the spine won’t get hard and it might be able to bend more without breaking. Just be sure to leave the edge in the oil until there is no colour in the spine then cool the whole blade off. Otherwise if you the spine will temper the edge to much as soon as you pull it out. I myself have had trouble doing extreme testing like this. Maybe iam just not tempering enough ether. Anyway great video.
I’m having one made in this steel so just for safe measure what can I do when it’s here I’m deffo going to mention it to my smithy but should I do it too for giggles as it’s going to get used outdoors I need it tough
@@AaronJohnson1979 thank you to be fair I don’t think I’m ever going to be chopping bolts in half! Especially not with a forging hammer on the top hahaha I guess I just saw this and decided it’s gotta be able to do it 🤣
@@AaronJohnson1979 what I mean is should I ask him when it’s forged quenched to then give it some extra tempering? He is going to cold blue it after so I wouldn’t ideally wanna take a heat gun to it when it’s posted to me all done looking right ya know?
@@Trac3r. 80crv2 will get very dark, there’s many ways to do it and I doubt you’re going to take it over 400° with a heat gun anytime I ever cold blued A knife I would clean the knife very good wipe the cold bluing on Let it sit in a couple minutes then wash it off with soap and water than lightly buffet with zero grit steel wool that’s it I never used a gun
@@AaronJohnson1979 oh I know but I’m not the one building it haha should I push him to do the extra temper to a straw like colour then have him blue it and I’m happy it’s dark I’m ex military a shiny knife is a lesson on how to get... sort of deal so it’s all sounding good but then not ideal i temper the edge after all the works done myself ruining the finish of what it does have
Maybe the oil tempering had a minimal case hardening effect on it 🤔 you'd have to try and break a piece that is tempered with and without the oil in order to figure out if that was what did it 🤷♂️
Honestly I never did figure out why it broke like that. But I broke about 20 or 30 test pieces and blades from 80crv2. Tempered all different ways and sometimes they break funny like that I’ve had other pieces break the same. I know that oil temper was very stinky and stunk up the whole house I don’t suggest doing it that way lol
@@AaronJohnson1979 note taken lol, appreciate the heads up! I've got some 80crv2 in route as I've never really messed with it myself looking forward to seeing how far I can stretch it and what I'm able to do with it...
@@kevinAuman1 your going to love it, Easy to grind Easy to polish Very forgiving heat treating Super fine grain Crazy tough!! Lol Easy to sharpen Gets nice and DARK Easy to move forging Very consistent steel. And it's Jason Knight's favorite can't go wrong there LoL
Yeah that oil tempering I didn’t really like doing, it stunk up the whole house And it took forever for the oil to get up to temperature. I’ve been using tinfoil And a temperature probe lately and it’s been working a lot better I feel it’s more accurate
@@S.Vallieres at the time I couldn’t sustain a steady temperature oil will hold a steady temperature. It doesn’t fluctuate, but I don’t suggest doing it this way it makes your house stink, but it does work.
IF YOU really want an 80crv2 katana.. Zombie tools will make you one for $1000. That sword was made for a nuclear holocaust or something that Michael the Ark angel carries.
Well a lot of it is geometry I have a very thick edge on this With a 20° primary edge. On a mora it’s a true Scandi grind, Scandi grinds are excellent for wood carving but not toughness. And 80crv2 is probably 2x as Tough as 1095 that helps to
@@dimmacommunication That’s a good question I think because 1095 was used so much in the government during world war two Vietnam war and this is just my opinion I also know a lot of factories make 1095 it was used in automobiles and it was used in Files far as 80crv2 It’s pretty much from Germany I don’t know how many factories in Germany make it but that’s why the steel is so consistent it’s always the same no matter where I get it from and that is very important in knife making & not all 1095 is the same
Good vid. I started out with just 1084 and 1095 when I began making knives about 3 years ago. Have made a few camp choppers in CPM-4V but I always send them to Peter's for heat treating in an argon rich oven as well as their ability to cryo temp. The past 6 months I have become enamored with 80CRV2 and love it. Have never done an oil temper but I might suggest going a little higher with your temp to between 400 and 425. Have had excellent results in that range. Give up just a smidge in hardness but gain some toughness. It's just what I have found works for me. Keep up the good work.
Thank you I appreciate it and yeah I don’t temper in the oil anymore,,stinks up the house too bad lol. I’ve been wrapping the knives in tinfoil and putting a temperature probe in the tinfoil with the knife in my toaster oven and it’s been working pretty good. I actually ordered a heat treat oven and it should be here in 10 weeks can’t wait
@@AaronJohnson1979 Awesome about the heat treat oven. I have been wanting to buy one for 2 years now. Even after saving up for one I decided to build one instead and use the extra money for more steel and other supplies. Which one did you go with? I was looking at getting the Evenheat KO 22.5. The one I am building is 22" deep. The bricks are due to arrive this Tuesday. Looking forward in see a video of your oven when you get it.
@@nyukknivesandleather889 I got the KH418 That’s the one big brown bear recommended I like it because it’s a 110 I don’t have to run extra power also through USAA knife maker I financed it so it’s like 40 bucks a month which will definitely work for me
If your cutting bolts with no edge damage I think your on the right track. I remember reading about a Japanese guy cutting a rifle barrel in half with a samurai sword
I love 80crv2, I make swords and test them and from my tests even with a light straw temper it took ALOT to break. For swords Dark straw color to a bronze temper has superior edge retention and toughness. With a proper blue temper it will be Un breakable, and still boast a hardness of 55hrc.
Thank you for sharing all that I want to learn all I can about this steel
The downside of that is that when tempering in the blue zone (500F-550F) lands you in the embrittlement zone. I don’t know if it applies to euctectoid steels like 1080CrV2, but I wouldn’t risk it either way. 400F will get you over 60HRC easily and it will still be very tough.
man I appreciate this video. This really shows something in the tempering nuances that are easily overlooked.
Big time!!! Lol tempering part is the part I messed up the most lol
Thank you for proving my point and stating what I've been saying for years, even though you had no intentions and are probably confused right about now. But recently I ran into couple knife makers and during a discussion I told them I can generally get a good idea of the blades hardness just by taping on it and listening to the sound. I was shocked that they both looked at me and said it was total nonsense. I'm not a experienced knife maker although I have made some knives, but mostly a collector. But I felt like I was in a twilight zone, hearing both makers who supposedly have over 35 years of knifemaking experience between them claim that thats impossible. I didn't argue since I figured im not in any position to argue with 2 people who have far more experience than me. However it left me confused and perplexed cause that method had always worked for me sometimes more accurately than what the blade was advertised as its RC level. I'm not saying i can distinguish between 59rc and 60rc or 61rc and 63rc but if there is a significant margin of error i can tell. I can definitely tell a difference in a sound between a blade in low to mid 50rc to 60rc and higher. I can also tell if the blade is lower than 50. Just to clarify I'm not claiming I can tell the exact RC level but I can definitely tell if its in the ball park or way off. For example I had a knife made by a relatively known maker and the blade was advertised at 56-58rc. But everytime i tapped it, it sounded much harder almost like yours did, thus I figured his heat treat was off. A little while later I tried batton that knife through a hard log and grabbed a small hammer to tap the knife through since it got wedged. After maybe 3 hits, a massive chunk of the blade snapped off. And this was not a thin blade, the spine was not quite 1/4 inch but thicker than 3/16. So I'm certain that knife was tempered to way higher than 56-58rc.My point is an experienced knife maker should have a good idea how hard the blade is just by taping on the edge and listening to the sound. Hard steels will verberate and ping almost like a glass cup. Softer steels will not reflect most of the sound back and you'll generally end up with a thud. Now you have to keep in mind that a handle thats attached to the blade could alter the result of the test, so this is best done when the blade is not attached yet. There are other factors like gripping the knife hard will void the test, but other than that a sound the blade makes should be your first indicator. Do you think I'm off my rocker, or did those guys not know what they were talking about. Cause it really really bugged me, and I just happen to watch your video and saw you do the same thing.
definitely have a ring to them. I like to hang them upside down and flick the side, and there is a ring no matter the thickness before tempering, and after tempering, there is a different sound. Since this video I have bought some HRC files specifically for checking hardness and they’re much more accurate so I can get the HRC within 3 to 4 points now very accurately still I need a actual HRC tester but they’re like 1000 bucks lol i’m just a hobbyist I don’t make them to sell them or some type of side gig. This is just for fun
I've also noticed the finer the grain just like the grain on the blade you broke the more likely they tend to break in the same manner your blade broke. Clean breaks often happen on knives that are really hard borderline brittle, but every knife that was extremely tough almost always breaks by tearing a piece of steel off. Its almost like the metal is so tough it tears and gets ripped rather than just snap. I've noticed is now on multiple blades that exhibit great toughness so I don't think its a coincidence.
@@voltsoftruthBSbuster excellent excellent point now that you mention that I’ve noticed the same thing. The Harder more brittle blades that are easier to break do brake flush, and the ones that give you a hard time almost rip. Thank you for that information and I actually explained one of my questions on this video that I just now got answered. I don’t know how old this video is but thank you for that.
Great video mate...I love my 80crv2 knives. Very interesting to see if tested. Thank you.
Yeah once you get the tempering down and you get it dialed in this sucker will cut bolts in half lol
Hey there Aaron Johnson!
In germany this steel (80CrV2 or according to the german Steel Key (Stahlschlüssel): 1.2235) is quite popular, but also most often quite expensive. There are shops that wanna have for a flat bar (1000mm long, 60mm wide, 6,2mm thick) approximately 50 Dollar + the delivery costs. It is sold here as an good allrounder that is very shock resistant and quite tough in general because of the higher Vanadium content.
I use most often ball bearing steel (100Cr6) from old ball bearings. The Problems with that steel is that the unhardening takes it's time and that you often have to put quite an effort into it (especially for bigger ball bearings) to bring them into a bar shape that fits your ideas. Besides that 100Cr6 is often easy and cheap available and gives amazing results when treated correctly.
I was really amazed to see what this steel is capable to do when heat treated correctly! The Lifespan of a steel rises and falls with it's heat treatment, as you can have the best steel but with bad forging and bad heat treatment you can be lucky when it survives an hour of work or even the hardening, while properly heat treated pieces can last decades. Some of my first swords have been made from that steel and were easily capable to cut through quite big Broomsticks without rolling or chipping.
Here the actual Temperature Treatment Data for 80Crv2 that was given to me by the Professional Shop i buy my steel:
Hardening: 840°C - Quench Medium: Oil
Tempering: 200°C 2 x 1 hour (I personally temper directly over the open fire(put a 3mm flat bar in the fire and lay the blade onto it) and not in an oven - had always good results with that!)
Maximum Hardness in Oil: 60 HRC
Color in Damascus: Grey
Used for: Hunting Knifes, Swords, Bushcraft, Outdoor Knifes
The Steel that i receive is completely softend and unhardend so it is easy to file it, grind it, etc.
Thanks for this amazing video and sacrificing your steel to show us how to treat it and what to expect of that steel. I personally think that you did alot of things absolutely right, as:
1. Your grain was outstanding!
2. Your Heat treatment was controlled
3. Your Knife showed even under extreme stress a very high resistance
4. The cutting ability of your knife was outstanding and it even cutted through Steel without rolling/chipping
Combining all this together i would say that you did an outstanding job and got the maximum out of the steel!
Best Regards!
P.S. My favorite Steel: C75! Easy to get your hands on, easy to heat treat but still very tough and good results - i.m.o the best steel to start with but also an often completely underestimated steel and a real allrounder (tools, Knifes, Swords,..)!
I know a shop in France where you can get 80crv2 and many other steels cheap. EUROTECHNI
I have quenched this steel at 850 ºc in fast oil (cold) and it gave me around 65 HRC, very fine grain and surprisingly difficult to break even without temper.
I've found there are several types of 80crv2 and vary heat treatments depending on the supplier.
Heat your parks 50 to 120 before the quench, temper at 405 for 2 hours, then 390 for 1.
According to knife steel nerds the sweet spot for 80crv2 steel for max toughness is a tempering of 450degF. More or less than 450 reduces toughness slightly.
Awesome video, I’ve been recently playing with 80crv2 as well.
80CRV2 is my favorite steel after CPM 3v.
I used kiln for heat treatment
And the result is very good
80crv2 my love 😍
Mine is on the way lol. Can’t wait
Tempering is definitely the key.
I like the oil temper technique.
Maybe a couple of cycles at 400° - 450°. Maybe pre-heat the oil, instead of placing it in cold oil and bringing it to temp inside the oven. One other thing, maybe place the knife in the oil spine down. Instead of laying flat on one side.
Still, your blade took a beating. Nice job.
Yeah, the oil smoked so bad. It burns your eyes in the house so I wouldn’t suggest doing it, but it seemed to be tough as hell that way. Lol
One of the best steels for fixed blades! Not many steels, combine that toughness, with decent edge retention and ease of sharpening! I like ballbearing steel more, but 80crv2, is up there with the most suitable steels for fixed blades!
I 💯 agree with that!
GREAT Experiments..
If you were choosing....... would it be 80crV2 or 8670? Thanks.
Probably 8670,
It’s cheaper
8670 has nickel so you could make light layer, Damascus.
8670 doesn’t warp during quench
80crv2 can give you problems if you try to make Damascus with it because anything with chromium doesn’t like to forge welded to itself it is possible but it’s harder. Not to mention on paper, 8670 is much tougher not that you would notice a difference.
8670 has a little less edge retention, it would be hard to notice a difference with that either..
If you don’t mind me asking why do you temper in vegetable oil? That’s very interesting never thought of doing that
At this time I was experimenting on different ways of tempering if you don’t have a kiln use a thermometer with a prob Put the knife in some tinfoil put the probe in the tinfoil with the knife then put it in your toaster oven
Oil tempering sucks all of our eyes were burning in the house
I love my pukko knife from Finland made of 80crv2carbon steel,mine I've not been able to break it,good edge retention, decent steel,I'm not trying to break it,but I was really impressed at how the DBK guys had the same knife as me an couldn't break it,I mean hell they even shot it with a rifle,easy to field sharpen or strop too.
I’m 205 pounds and it took all of my weight with a prybar pipe and a bench vice multiple attempts to break
@@AaronJohnson1979 ,damn
Nice.
Thank you
Says alot about a craftsman/knifesmith when you do all this testing and breaking of your own blades to perfect your methods much respect sir.... Are these for sale by chance and where can I find them?
Mostly make knives for fun just as a hobby I work construction so in the summertime it's hard for me to get time to get out in the garage when work is busy but every now and then I'll throw a few knives on Etsy. One day I'll get more serious about selling them but right now I'm just having fun trying to make the best knife I possibly can with what equipment I have I think I have more fun testing them than anything and dialing it in
The heat treat and temper can be tricky on 80crv but once you get it it's strong as shit. Good chopper, slicer and holds an edge but will rust easy. Not as much as 1084 but its like an upgraded 1084 steel
Your videos are getting better and better... are you forging your blades now a days? Or are you using stock steel blanks?
Steve it depends on the steel and the look u want. Right now I'm kind of moving over to this new kind of Steel and I'm trying to learn through testing and trial and error how to achieve the perfect heat treat something like this you're going to want to do stock removal at first Once you master the heat treat then you can start playing around and forging and trying to do Forge welds but when you forge a blade you create stress and the grain will grow because of the high temperatures required to forge so it adds extra steps and extra problems. Once I master the steel I will definitely Forge some blades from it it's supposed to be one of the best steals to forge with I guess it moves under the hammer like Play-Doh
Great vid, how bout torch tempering?
Yeah you can do that I seen guys use coal too pretty effectively Tempering. Lately I’ve been using tinfoil wrapping up tonight with a temperature probe and putting it in the toaster oven seems to be working pretty good
Dude...that sh!t is effin impressive!!😲
Toughest knife I ever tried to break this steel is crazy. Don't know why anyone would want anything tougher
Then your heat treat already is on point mate. Then you temper it as you like mate 😁
At first we were 90% there then 95% there now we're 98% there
Lol this is normal shop talk
love this shit
Thank you it was starting to really turn into a fight they’re glad I won, well kinda lol
I liked the video
Thank you i try
@@AaronJohnson1979 how hard is the steel to work I’ve never done any of that I’ve been think about making a a full tang hatchet/axe for camping but I’d have to learn and work my way up to that skill
@@chancevinson3923 80crv2 is great to work with forge or stick removal
Grinding and sharpening & even polishing
Now this is testing knife steel. Not one stupid hemp rope cut in the whole video. I can’t stand watching someone cut rope 1000 times. It doesn’t matter what really matters is if your edge can cut though hard shit like bone antler or mild steel. Also looks like your blade was holding up pretty good at the end. What ever you did with that torch seemed to work. Stick with that I’d say. Also maybe try doing just an edge quench that way the spine won’t get hard and it might be able to bend more without breaking. Just be sure to leave the edge in the oil until there is no colour in the spine then cool the whole blade off. Otherwise if you the spine will temper the edge to much as soon as you pull it out. I myself have had trouble doing extreme testing like this. Maybe iam just not tempering enough ether. Anyway great video.
Did you normalize 3 times? How long did you soak for ?
I’m having one made in this steel so just for safe measure what can I do when it’s here I’m deffo going to mention it to my smithy but should I do it too for giggles as it’s going to get used outdoors I need it tough
Leave it over 60-63 HRC it does just fine and grind it thin it’s tough it can handle a thin hard edge
@@AaronJohnson1979 thank you to be fair I don’t think I’m ever going to be chopping bolts in half! Especially not with a forging hammer on the top hahaha I guess I just saw this and decided it’s gotta be able to do it 🤣
@@AaronJohnson1979 what I mean is should I ask him when it’s forged quenched to then give it some extra tempering? He is going to cold blue it after so I wouldn’t ideally wanna take a heat gun to it when it’s posted to me all done looking right ya know?
@@Trac3r. 80crv2 will get very dark, there’s many ways to do it and I doubt you’re going to take it over 400° with a heat gun anytime I ever cold blued
A knife I would clean the knife very good wipe the cold bluing on Let it sit in a couple minutes then wash it off with soap and water than lightly buffet with zero grit steel wool that’s it I never used a gun
@@AaronJohnson1979 oh I know but I’m not the one building it haha should I push him to do the extra temper to a straw like colour then have him blue it and I’m happy it’s dark I’m ex military a shiny knife is a lesson on how to get... sort of deal so it’s all sounding good but then not ideal i temper the edge after all the works done myself ruining the finish of what it does have
Maybe the oil tempering had a minimal case hardening effect on it 🤔 you'd have to try and break a piece that is tempered with and without the oil in order to figure out if that was what did it 🤷♂️
Honestly I never did figure out why it broke like that. But I broke about 20 or 30 test pieces and blades from 80crv2. Tempered all different ways and sometimes they break funny like that I’ve had other pieces break the same. I know that oil temper was very stinky and stunk up the whole house I don’t suggest doing it that way lol
@@AaronJohnson1979 note taken lol, appreciate the heads up! I've got some 80crv2 in route as I've never really messed with it myself looking forward to seeing how far I can stretch it and what I'm able to do with it...
@@kevinAuman1 your going to love it,
Easy to grind
Easy to polish
Very forgiving heat treating
Super fine grain
Crazy tough!! Lol
Easy to sharpen
Gets nice and DARK
Easy to move forging
Very consistent steel.
And it's Jason Knight's favorite can't go wrong there LoL
Id look at winkler knives they are the king of using this steel see how they do it
Never heard of these guys I’ll check it out
Wow there are knives that cut cut 1/4 steel. Galvanized nail is not too good
The colors run because it’s a thin layer of oxide. Submerged in oil, there’s no access to the air that makes it oxidize. It probably was tempered...
Yeah that oil tempering I didn’t really like doing, it stunk up the whole house And it took forever for the oil to get up to temperature. I’ve been using tinfoil And a temperature probe lately and it’s been working a lot better I feel it’s more accurate
Why tempering in vegetable oil?
@@S.Vallieres at the time I couldn’t sustain a steady temperature oil will hold a steady temperature. It doesn’t fluctuate, but I don’t suggest doing it this way it makes your house stink, but it does work.
@@AaronJohnson1979
I see.
Thanks a lot for replying and helping.
Have a nice day!
@@S.Vallieres anytime
IF YOU really want an 80crv2 katana.. Zombie tools will make you one for $1000. That sword was made for a nuclear holocaust or something that Michael the Ark angel carries.
Lol well hell yeah! I don't know if I was going to pay someone I like that pirate forge guy he makes some pretty bad ass big blades and swords.
meanwhile my mora in 1095 gets rolled edge while cutting an aluminium can 🙄
Well a lot of it is geometry I have a very thick edge on this With a 20° primary edge. On a mora it’s a true Scandi grind, Scandi grinds are excellent for wood carving but not toughness. And 80crv2 is probably 2x as Tough as 1095 that helps to
@@AaronJohnson1979 So why does nobody uses it ?
@@dimmacommunication That’s a good question I think because 1095 was used so much in the government during world war two Vietnam war and this is just my opinion I also know a lot of factories make 1095 it was used in automobiles and it was used in Files far as 80crv2 It’s pretty much from Germany I don’t know how many factories in Germany make it but that’s why the steel is so consistent it’s always the same no matter where I get it from and that is very important in knife making & not all 1095 is the same
Good vid. I started out with just 1084 and 1095 when I began making knives about 3 years ago. Have made a few camp choppers in CPM-4V but I always send them to Peter's for heat treating in an argon rich oven as well as their ability to cryo temp. The past 6 months I have become enamored with 80CRV2 and love it. Have never done an oil temper but I might suggest going a little higher with your temp to between 400 and 425. Have had excellent results in that range. Give up just a smidge in hardness but gain some toughness. It's just what I have found works for me. Keep up the good work.
Thank you I appreciate it and yeah I don’t temper in the oil anymore,,stinks up the house too bad lol. I’ve been wrapping the knives in tinfoil and putting a temperature probe in the tinfoil with the knife in my toaster oven and it’s been working pretty good. I actually ordered a heat treat oven and it should be here in 10 weeks can’t wait
@@AaronJohnson1979 Awesome about the heat treat oven. I have been wanting to buy one for 2 years now. Even after saving up for one I decided to build one instead and use the extra money for more steel and other supplies. Which one did you go with? I was looking at getting the Evenheat KO 22.5. The one I am building is 22" deep. The bricks are due to arrive this Tuesday. Looking forward in see a video of your oven when you get it.
@@nyukknivesandleather889 I got the
KH418 That’s the one big brown bear recommended I like it because it’s a 110 I don’t have to run extra power also through USAA knife maker I financed it so it’s like 40 bucks a month which will definitely work for me
If your cutting bolts with no edge damage I think your on the right track. I remember reading about a Japanese guy cutting a rifle barrel in half with a samurai sword
I wish he made a video of that lol that would be freaking awesome
@@AaronJohnson1979 yea that would be cool. Kind of hard to believe but still alway possible.