Fixing the Ecoboost - Overheating - EP7: Towing Test with Full Race Cooling Upgrades
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Support the channel by using our Amazon Affiliate Link: amzn.to/3yPirhM
Instagram: NotSoQuaker
Email: notsoquaker@gmail.com
Before and after towing test on my 2013 Ford F-150 Ecoboost 3.5L.
Mods tested:
Full Race 2011-2014 Ford F-150 and Raptor Radiator Upgrade:
www.full-race....
2011-2014 Ford F-150 / Raptor 16 Row Transmission Cooler:
www.full-race....
Full Race 2011-2014 Ford F-150 EcoBoost Oil Cooler Kit:
www.full-race....
Awesome job with before and after. I know it took a bunch of time to put this all together for the video. It’s appreciated!
Appreciate the series of videos and the tests performed. I just received the full-race radiator today; will hopefully get it installed this weekend. Like many, I get frustrated seeing high temps when pulling our camper. Hoping to see good results! Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the support man
Josh,
How is the Full Race radiator working in your truck, any better?
Mine with stock radiator gets ups to the red line for a few seconds, then drops back to the middle, up & down, up & down.
Great series to document all the mods. I really enjoyed them.
Sweet results! Especially on 35s!
Best mod i did was trading it in for the V8. Problem fixed!
Maybe would have been smart at this point hahaha
Thanks for putting in time and effort for this video, much appreciated.
Great video, I'm sitting here getting ready to do the same mods to my truck minus the Manifolds. This test is exactly what I was looking for. I live in Utah too and need the help when pulling this trailer in the summer. I'm also doing a 170 thermostat, AFE larger Transmission pan, and an air/oil seperator. Might as well dump a bunch of money into this pig at 150k miles.
Great job with posting some data and working at keeping it pretty consistent around the testing parameters. A lot Eco's see high Coolant temps at altitude, the cooling system really seems to be under engineered for the extremes. I have a 2014 with a ton of work done to it and even did a delete of the factory oil cooler for a air-to-oil remote mounted cooler as I didn't like the "diverter" used in the lower rad hose to send water to the oil cooler.
i am a lurker in the Overheating While Towing thread on the forum. I believe that you are a frequent poster there lol
@@NSQGarage Lot's of great info in that thread!
It's good to experiment, your running 35s on 373 gears your towing is dramatically less , explaining thar to diesel owners with 38s they hated mpg
How many people put bigger tires on without changing gears is insane
@@tooltips9911yeah i have 35s with 3.73 s the power diffrence is crazy with that being said i bought 4.56s
Great series. Nice job!
Second run air temps were cooler and 1st run was either really hot outside or heat soaked since ait started at 120. Not conclusive enough to justify money spent. I know you can't control the weather . I do appreciate the data. Thank you for doing this! But can't wait to get a diesel truck man this blows .
Yeah a diesel might be a good option. Maybe many years down the road for me
And I guess I failed to see the difference in the iat. I honestly think the temp sensor gets heat soaked though.
My 2011 3.5 only overheats when it's 85 or higher outside. I tried to pull it to Bryce canyon last week from SLC and it was stressful to say the least. I'd like to see a test like this in the heat (90 plus) going up a big grade like Parleys canyon.
That is a scary hill. I am sure that would really stress the cooling system out. I havent had a reason to tow over that hill. But if I have a reason to tow up that, I will be sure to record some video and data
Lots of great info. I have the exact same issues on my 13 ecoboost. I was towing 8k when it was 100 out and I had to drop it into 2nd along with turning the ac off to keep it from overheating. Not fun lol.
We can cry together! 😂
Yes! Lol!!
I've been fighting the same thing on my '12.
Why does a lower gear and no ac make it run cooler? I have issues with my 5.0 trans running hot. Driving a moderately hilly road at 100km/h, empty, with ac on full in 86f weather I was running about 214f.
@@williamlogue a lower gear implies a higher RPM if you are at the same speed. A higher RPM on the Ecoboost generally means less boost. Additionally, the higher RPM means that the water pump is flowing faster. If the AC is on, the condenser is adding additional heat in front of the radiator as well as adding additional load on the engine. Running the heat instead of the AC will also draw additional heat from the cooling system.
Hey brother!! Love you. Didn't know you started a channel. I'm subscribed bro
Welcome! Hope you are doing well!
@@NSQGarage doing good boo boo. Keep going bro! I want to see this channel blow up in the next coming years. Consistency!
Founds it, looks promising, only thing I dont have is the oil cooler. Are you running a tune of any sort?
Yeah I have been running one from 5 star for a while
I pulled my camper up to flaming gorge with my 2011 last year when it was 95 out and my water temp was riding right at the white line on the stock gauge (not sure what temp that is?). I’m putting an oil cooler on so hopefully it helps a little bit.
yeah, you must be in the same region I am. I hope that helps some!
How heavy was the camper?
Well done on the video.. Im working through overheating on my 2013 Ecoboost while towing in the Rocky MTNS..
You are in good company my friend
my 11 eco boost had the exhaust bolt snap two times. i got a '15 and blew the exhaust bolts at 75k miles, i wish they would fix it :(
yeah its a poor design. sounds like you had exceptionally bad luck
Any updates on your setup now that you've towed in hotter weather? Still getting too hot or has this fixed the issue?
It is much improved. It still gets warm if I'm going 80 mph up a hill. But it feels more manageable now
@@NSQGarage Awesome! I am in the process of finishing my oil cooling setup. I have all the other mods, but a different intercooler than you. It helped over the stock setup, but it's still too close to limp mode than I want to be. I am hoping the oil cooler will widen this gap a little more. Appreciate the series you made, it was very helpful and well done!
@@TheItalianDNA thanks, I hope it works out for you? Where are you located. Curious if you are also high altitude, low humidity
@@NSQGarage Yes. Pacific Northwest but inland. About 3,700 ft and dry, dry, dry.
Same question as below…Did you run it with just a new thermostat or everything together? I just replaced my thermostat to a 160 degree because I was overheating with my camp trailer. I also just had both exhaust manifolds done and my left turbo replaced. I’m headed out of town this weekend and super nervous about overheating. Do you think a full coolant flush will help at all?
Forgot to mention I’m also running MPT tunes with a SCT LiveWire Tuner. The thermostat is a Livernois 160 which I’m not sure is right for Utah either.
so i have had the 180 degree thermostat in for a while. this test was a comparison between stock radiator, trans cooler and oil cooler vs aftermarket radiator, trans cooler and oil cooler. the lower thermostat gets you a little more time as you start at a lower temperature at the bottom of the grade. but that only get you so much. a coolant flush may help a bit, but I wouldn't get your hopes up. if you want a little boost, you could run a 60/40 water to coolant ratio.
@nsqgarage
How has all the upgrades from fullrace been doing so far? I'm looking into doing all of the upgrades to help with heat and be able to tow with better cooking than factory. And have you seen the new formline stainless manifolds that they will be releasing soon? I tried asking them to use my truck for testing lol!
I saw the manifolds. They look sick! But I also heard that Ford has new manifolds that use more studs. Cooling is better with my set up. It still likes to get warm but it's more manageable now
I've read something about fords new replacements being better than the factory ones??
Bd diesel offers their new ones that are similar to the crp ones you installed on your truck, but utilize some extra holes in the heads for i think 3 additional studs per side.
I asked full race about that and they seem to find it interesting why they would use additional studs??? The new full race ones sure look sick and I'm sure will be the highest flowing.. maybe they won't warp like the cast iron ones and it won't be necessary to have additional studs anyways. Guess we'll see when they become available.
Thanks for the reply! I haven't been on RUclips for quite awhile. You've sure made alot more changes and upgrades to your truck. Liking your bed support and spare tire rack. I liked the 454 motorsports one like you mentioned, But that's badass how you designed and built yours to do both of those together and be easily remove able still!
@@dangibsonakadisasterdan7050 thanks I really appreciate the support. Yeah I feel like I would have got the full race ones if they were out when I needed them. I wish their design used more studs as I feel like that would absolutely have been the no compromise solution. Let me know if you end up using them!
The only test I want to see is that hill in Hatcher Pass
#neverforget
When's the 0-60 test coming? Haha. Interesting it didn't have to downshift running the same hill. The mods should have only been 20hp at best right (if you believe full race)? Maybe the exhaust leak was robbing you of more power than you thought.
You probably will be disappointed with the 0-60 test haha
Hey there - how has this been holding up? Hoping to use you for a point of comparison. Same cooling mods on my end albeit different brands (Mishimoto radiator & intercooler, Saudi-style trans cooler and custom oil cooler (actually not truly custom - using the OEM that Full Race uses). 160 degree thermostat as well (and tune compensated to kick fans on earlier) - though tbh I think that was a wasted mod.. once you're hot/overheating and that thermostat is open.. it's open.. so a bit pointless in solving this problem.
Anyway, the other mods definitely helped but I still get hot if it's over ~80 degrees out. I'm towing very steep (6-7%), long (15 miles sustained at that grade), high heat (90-105). Towing a 30' travel trailer for reference - about 7000lb loaded. But it even does it when towing my 4500lb boat. Doesn't seem to do any better/worse between the trailer and boat as far as heat goes.
I have NOT swapped the radiator hose - that's my next step. Have you had a chance to tow in hotter climates (same 6-7% grade?) - if so how is it doing? I'm trying to determine if this hose swap makes a significant difference. I'll admit the results you got here were more drastic than what I saw, so I'm HOPING that hose might be the smoking gun.
My next step after the hose might then be followed by moving the oil cooler up higher and fitting its own fan to it.
Yeah your conditions sound like they fit the bill. I haven't towed in super hot conditions yet. We sold the camper and are waiting to get something bigger. Unfortunately I didn't do the mods in steps so I have no way of really knowing how much that hose makes a difference. With my setup, I would still like to see cooler temps. So I have considered regearing. I think the bigger tires that drive lower RPMs might have a big impact.
@@NSQGarage My truck started as 3.31's and I regeared a few years ago to 4.11's for that exact reason (I'm on 34's). It helped a lot in off-the-line tug and overall drivability, but honestly didn't help the temps really at all. Or maybe it did and was just too small to notice.
I'll try the hose mod I suppose then go on to adding that fan in front of the oil cooler and see how things go from there. Will report back if it makes a major difference!
@@yoster77 good luck man! I remember you from the Ecoboost forums!
Its been a Year later, how are you liking it? What's you hottest summer temperatures. We get to 116 degrees
I would say that the mods definitely helped. However the truck still gets warmer than I prefer and I still watch it closely. I haven't towed in anything close to 116, but that would probably give the Ecoboost some trouble. Long, steady uphills with no periods to cool off still require you to pay attention to temps.
@@NSQGarage Thanks for the info. Yeah, my truck never had heating problems while towing the first couple of years. Its a 2013 F150 FX4 from Canada Bought in St George, Utah in July 2016. Now it overheats on small hills. And we've got tons of big hills in Utah.
Ford recommended I replace the radiator (already replaced the thermostat & that didn't help). Another mechanic buddy says he's only seen the problem in Tuned F150's & to get it set back to stock.
I just want it fixed & not have to worry like before.
@@MatthewsFabrication interesting you mention the tune. I feel like everyone on the forums who had the same issue also had a tune. Maybe it's worth a shot. I'm up in the Ogden/Logan area btw lol
@@NSQGarage That's good to know about the forums. I'll have to ask ford to schedule to see if it was tuned. I never got it tuned, but did have something in the engine fixed, as it was leaking, can't think of it right now, but the fixed both sides. Made the eco boost power horrible.
Ever since then I've had the problem it seems like. They took the entire top front cab off to fix it, they said it was easier.
It reset it to Canadian Km, etc. So maybe it happened then???
@@NSQGarage Right on, we used to live in Logan, then Nibley, before moving to St George.
Like engineeringexplained but with trucks
Was that the stock thermostat both runs? Or did you put a colder one in with the new radiator
185 degree thermostat both runs
@@NSQGarage specifically 185? The oem one is 195
@@firebry23 yeah I put the motocraft 185 t-stat in. I think its out of a mustang gt. I can find the part number if you need it
@@NSQGarage they sell a 160 thermostat also. Ive been looking at this radiator and the Mishimoto one.
I've got a 2011 eco
Cr performance manifolds, Ams Adapters, 3" catless dp, 3.5" flow though exhaust, raptor trans cooler, thermal bypass in the trans, and a Livernois tune. Id like the get a upgraded intercooler for it also
@@firebry23 it sounds like you have a pretty similar truck to mine. i definitely recommend the FR unit. about the thermostat, 160 seems really low. idk if you want the engine running that cool on a normal basis