Hello Jan, I'm sorry I forgot to mention in the instructions that the cut-outs in the orange adapter are for the hex nuts. ;) Incidentally, there are also recesses on the back of the fastening corners for the base plate in the upper part, into which nuts can be inserted. You can then screw in countersunk screws from the outside, which are then flush with the surface. The only thing that bothers me a bit about my design is that the joystik feels too light. Maybe it should be lined with lead. Ok, i was kidding... ;) Christian
HI, I like the look of the joystick, can you put some more details on thingy to show what supports need to be used. It could do with a few small changes that can help easier printing. Do you know about blind holes ?
I really like the design. It’s been done in a way that looks sturdy and compensates for the 3D printing, but also neatness with captive nuts/etc. I might have a go myself (you know I like a bit of DIY), although I might look at a better way of where the cable goes in, to allow the use of the proper strain relief.
@@leesmithsworkshop Yeah, the part named "top" looks like itd produce some annoying support structure. I'd be tempted to do that as two separate bits and join then somehow.
It felt a bit irritating to me at first but after getting used to it I really like the shorter throw for quick action games. I’ve seen a couple of people building this joystick without the "dome" part to have a longer throw, too (which reportedly works well if you use the little washer plate that comes with the sticks). :)
One thing I always like to point out, as a user of the original competition pro (via a Kempston interface on my ZX Spectrum 48K) is that the red stick version is not the original but certainly seems to be the more common version seen these days.
If it doesn't overhang the plastic enclosure, the black dust cover that the joystick came with would improve appearances I think by hiding those two screws. About the only comment I can leave other than adding that it looks like a fun project and that I enjoyed watching it come together.
Awesome! I am going to add some resistors and a 4066 chip and build myself some Tandy joysticks for my 1000's and CoCo's, since those things are becoming so expensive that they're becoming unobtainium these days. Thanks for the video and inspiration. (IIRC there was a Tandy version of these joysticks back in the day, but may be mistaken.)
Nice Jan well done. I have a solution for lazy people or not so technical who are looking for a really good joystick for the C64 and Atari. A modern one for the record. ArcadeR is called it I have one and it is sublime is just a tip ;-)
Thanks for the video, this was a really cool project, I'm glad you got it working. I personally really dislike the Competition Pro joysticks, I hate how both buttons are assigned to Fire 1, I think the prevalence of these joysticks is largely responsible for the majority of Amiga games being gimped with single-button controls instead of taking advantage of two fire buttons which the Amiga is fully capable of utilising. I'd like to try one if it had two independent fire buttons, but I still don't think it's a comfortable stick to use compared to either a proper arcade stick or a single-handed stick with suction cups.
I would install an a/b switch one of the fire buttons to tie it to either the other fire button or joystick up, since that is sometimes used as jump in some games.
Nice project. I’ve seen this on thingiverse and wondered how the arcade stick would fit. The Stick you are using is it similar to some Santa models, but the one i have lying around seems to be much higher in the switch assembly (about 25mm - it’s an older model not sure which one though) Regarding the length of the stick, I’m pretty sure there are stick extensions available in like 1/2 and 1 inch lengths to screw between the base joystick and the ball handle. Also one can use those device rubber feet that have a hole to screw them on. Those were often found on older lab equipment like bench top meters, power supplies ant very old radios and 80‘s hifi equipment. They are available in different sizes. Many moons ago I Frankensteined an old Competition Pro the electronics of an NES joypad in because I suck at using the dpad and firebuttons grown up with joystick 😂. Greetings from Dresden. Merry Christmas to all!
Awesome might be a Christmas holiday mini project. One question what is that wire stripping tool you are using? I couldn’t see it listed on the tools you use page.
1. I think the base could've been been flatter - there is enough space for those leaf-spring buttons and the joystick. 2. I don't see the reason for the top cylinder part to be made from two parts - just use the single part and two longer screws and screw those into the arcade joystick original holes. 3. Second button should be wired as Commodore Button 2 (pin 9)! 4. No place for the Turbo switch. 5. Shorter cylindrical sleeve would feel better for such short-throw joystick. I am now thinking of ordering such a device (with the fixes mentioned afore) - impossible to get real Competition Pro joysticks in my neck of the woods.
I have: 2 Powerplay (one Multi-Colour and one in Black) joysticks. 2 Zip Sticks, one with Pink buttons and with Yellow. My Competition Pro is Red and Clear. Also The Bug and a few Leaf spring crappy ones.
The construction is different from the ones I have used in the past. Would be interesting to test the long term reliability. The other ones have srew posts for self tapping screws, but those tend to break.
don't forget if you just want a modern joystick, there's the ArcadeR joystick... played on several at crash live last weekend and they are built like tanks. all microswitches I believe.
This is great! I am still looking for a good 3D printed version of an Atari paddle controller via USB for the new collection for example. Does anybody have a clue where I could find something like this?
IMO if you are into retro anything, you should invest in a decent 3D printer--or find a friend with one and bring them sealed spools of filament to print your stuff. They really do solve so many problems, and really good ones that do not need a ton of tinkering with (but we like tinkering in retro tech) are getting into sub-$200 price ranges.
Having bought three of the C64 DTV sticks, two of which are gutted and in the process of modding into other things, I have a couple of those empty shells just waiting for me to turn into Competition Pro sticks if I can get myself round to actually doing it, probably not as simple as this, but that's all part of the challenge of making stuff work... :D
I've just startet to print my own on my newly aquired 3D printer. I cam see that you need M3x7 screws on the 'manual'you are showing. Can you tell what size the other screws are? I would guess M3x15?
That may be the correct size. I’m not sure what I used because it was leftover stuff from my parts bin mostly. :/ Probably your best bet is to measure the length when the print is finished. The instructions (and my email conversation with the creator) only told me to use slightly longer M3 screws (without any exact measurements for those) I’m afraid. Hope yours turns out well!
Ah, the memories of Alpharoid, Penguin Adventure, Buck Rogers and Sorcery on the SVI 738 -- all played with a yellow-buttoned joystick just like this. But I seem to remember it was a QuickShot-branded one? Were they legit? It was a really good stick in any case.
I had heard from somewhere that Atari Paddles have to be changed somehow to properly work with Commodore 8-bit computers what is involved and could you do a possible video on how to convert Atari Paddles to more efficiently work with 8-bit Commodores?
I salvaged this one from a broken joystick. You can buy inexpensive DE-9 joystick extension cords from several places (I think even Amazon) though which you can use for the purpose.
Very cool project, and probably mechanically superior to the original. There is a part of me that kinda looks back and thinks that maybe a joystick just wasn't the best form factor for a controller for home machines. Yeah, they're perfect for flight sims, but for other stuff you would almost be better off with an NES style controller.
I think the microswitches in the original are easier to replace. I have one of this type joystick mechanism (or very similar) but it seems that the switches are soldered to a PCB. The Zippy brand is better (and costs a bit more) and it has replaceable microswitches too but it has different mounting so I'm afraid it would not fit into this case.
I have a replica and an original. The original is a bit knackered, but the replica is great! (I now realise this might be due to the different types of switches)
I swear I had a clear blue mini competition pro that had silver buttons , ball and auto fire switch , being smaller , to me made it quicker and more responsive. I can’t find any pictures online and unfortunately the stick is long gone .😢
It is sad that this can be done with genuine sanwa parts, as the joystick is more or less direct clone of Sanwa JLF and arcade button sizes are standardized more or less. The clone does have better header that goes down instead of side. You can also try to shop around for a clone or original JLF that has longer shaft that might match the original better, if you wish.
Es gibt recht kleine USB-Platinen, die passen könnten. Ich habe das allerdings nicht ausprobiert. Mein Ansatz war, einen externen Adapter zu basteln, der alte DE-9 Joysticks zu USB-Joysticks konvertiert, weil ich halt sehr viele Originale in der Sammlung habe. Funktioniert sehr gut. Irgendwo auf diesem Kanal gibt es auch ein Video dazu.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello Jan,
I'm sorry I forgot to mention in the instructions that the cut-outs in the orange adapter are for the hex nuts. ;)
Incidentally, there are also recesses on the back of the fastening corners for the base plate in the upper part, into which nuts can be inserted. You can then screw in countersunk screws from the outside, which are then flush with the surface.
The only thing that bothers me a bit about my design is that the joystik feels too light. Maybe it should be lined with lead. Ok, i was kidding... ;)
Christian
HI, I like the look of the joystick, can you put some more details on thingy to show what supports need to be used. It could do with a few small changes that can help easier printing. Do you know about blind holes ?
@@leesmithsworkshop Done! :)
@@Christian-qf8rk thanks :)
I really like the design. It’s been done in a way that looks sturdy and compensates for the 3D printing, but also neatness with captive nuts/etc. I might have a go myself (you know I like a bit of DIY), although I might look at a better way of where the cable goes in, to allow the use of the proper strain relief.
it's not a nice easy print with some funny overhangs in places like the 4 corners for the nuts that hang mid air on the top.
@@leesmithsworkshop Yeah, the part named "top" looks like itd produce some annoying support structure. I'd be tempted to do that as two separate bits and join then somehow.
Looks like a great little project. You should wire the second button to up on the joystick, so you can have a separate jump button.
Love the shorter throw!
It felt a bit irritating to me at first but after getting used to it I really like the shorter throw for quick action games. I’ve seen a couple of people building this joystick without the "dome" part to have a longer throw, too (which reportedly works well if you use the little washer plate that comes with the sticks). :)
One thing I always like to point out, as a user of the original competition pro (via a Kempston interface on my ZX Spectrum 48K) is that the red stick version is not the original but certainly seems to be the more common version seen these days.
I do love the grey case though.
It is a very nice construction. There are, BTW, length extension rods for this kind of joystick.
Can't wait to print this!
I am planning to build a diy joystick for playing Kick-off on Amiga and this video came just in time :) Thanks Jan.
Very nice design, and a great video.
Beautiful. Love it. Thank you!
Excellent work!
Nice Joystick.
Thanks for the fantastic content, Jan! Keep up the great work!
Very cool! Kind of like a mix between a tac2 (with the shorter stick) and a competition pro. I like it! Nice job👍
Tac II is the king of joysticks... ;)
@@jukkahast937 Agreed
@@jukkahast937 indeed! 👍
Tac-2, the masterpiece! How many did you break? I think a couple per year for me. Damn Summer Games !
@@MacMelmac I probably broken one or two Tac-IIs when I was young.
But also at least a dozen others.
Looks pretty cool!!
I like this design and using the captive nuts to fix everything together. Going to give this a try.
If it doesn't overhang the plastic enclosure, the black dust cover that the joystick came with would improve appearances I think by hiding those two screws. About the only comment I can leave other than adding that it looks like a fun project and that I enjoyed watching it come together.
Been thinking about doing a two button version of this to replace my trusty zipstick. Great video, that's a lovely model!
Go for it! Should be easy to implement the second button with a suitable cable! :)
I have a leave switch button in black/red.
Bought at Kaufhof back in the day.
Psygnosis' Menace became a breeze to play. Truly the best Joystick.
That's awesome! The clone competition pro with clone arcade parts make a pretty impressive joystick!
You can get a Extended Sanwa JLF stick shaft too.
There is extensions you can buy to these joysticks if you want longer a shaft. Each extension is 15mm.
Absolutely a lifesaver when I used one of these sticks to home-make a gear-shifter for sim games.
fantastic project!
Nice project but I would get a joystick shaft extension so that the ball can be higher.
You can buy stick extenders from places like arcadeworld to make your stick longer
Still have one from back in the day. Also still have my zipstick with the yellow square buttons.
Awesome! I am going to add some resistors and a 4066 chip and build myself some Tandy joysticks for my 1000's and CoCo's, since those things are becoming so expensive that they're becoming unobtainium these days. Thanks for the video and inspiration. (IIRC there was a Tandy version of these joysticks back in the day, but may be mistaken.)
It was available - you are not mistaken.
Great build Jan! Looks very nice.
RetroRadionics have a similar one, using arcade parts, called the ArcadeR
Nice Jan well done.
I have a solution for lazy people or not so technical who are looking for a really good joystick for the C64 and Atari.
A modern one for the record.
ArcadeR is called it I have one and it is sublime is just a tip ;-)
That actually looks great!
Thanks for the video, this was a really cool project, I'm glad you got it working. I personally really dislike the Competition Pro joysticks, I hate how both buttons are assigned to Fire 1, I think the prevalence of these joysticks is largely responsible for the majority of Amiga games being gimped with single-button controls instead of taking advantage of two fire buttons which the Amiga is fully capable of utilising. I'd like to try one if it had two independent fire buttons, but I still don't think it's a comfortable stick to use compared to either a proper arcade stick or a single-handed stick with suction cups.
The one on the right was THE BEST joystick I ever used on my Commodore 64.
I would install an a/b switch one of the fire buttons to tie it to either the other fire button or joystick up, since that is sometimes used as jump in some games.
I really like that new design and shorter ball shaft. The original ball always felt too long.
Nice project. I’ve seen this on thingiverse and wondered how the arcade stick would fit. The Stick you are using is it similar to some Santa models, but the one i have lying around seems to be much higher in the switch assembly (about 25mm - it’s an older model not sure which one though) Regarding the length of the stick, I’m pretty sure there are stick extensions available in like 1/2 and 1 inch lengths to screw between the base joystick and the ball handle. Also one can use those device rubber feet that have a hole to screw them on. Those were often found on older lab equipment like bench top meters, power supplies ant very old radios and 80‘s hifi equipment. They are available in different sizes. Many moons ago I Frankensteined an old Competition Pro the electronics of an NES joypad in because I suck at using the dpad and firebuttons grown up with joystick 😂. Greetings from Dresden. Merry Christmas to all!
Sanwa not santa.
Awesome might be a Christmas holiday mini project. One question what is that wire stripping tool you are using? I couldn’t see it listed on the tools you use page.
1. I think the base could've been been flatter - there is enough space for those leaf-spring buttons and the joystick.
2. I don't see the reason for the top cylinder part to be made from two parts - just use the single part and two longer screws and screw those into the arcade joystick original holes.
3. Second button should be wired as Commodore Button 2 (pin 9)!
4. No place for the Turbo switch.
5. Shorter cylindrical sleeve would feel better for such short-throw joystick.
I am now thinking of ordering such a device (with the fixes mentioned afore) - impossible to get real Competition Pro joysticks in my neck of the woods.
When you have finished the improvments in your constructions let me know! I will print your version, too!
I have:
2 Powerplay (one Multi-Colour and one in Black) joysticks.
2 Zip Sticks, one with Pink buttons and with Yellow.
My Competition Pro is Red and Clear.
Also The Bug and a few Leaf spring crappy ones.
The construction is different from the ones I have used in the past. Would be interesting to test the long term reliability. The other ones have srew posts for self tapping screws, but those tend to break.
don't forget if you just want a modern joystick, there's the ArcadeR joystick... played on several at crash live last weekend and they are built like tanks. all microswitches I believe.
This is great! I am still looking for a good 3D printed version of an Atari paddle controller via USB for the new collection for example. Does anybody have a clue where I could find something like this?
Great Project can you provide us with a wiring diagram ? Bit confused as to where each wire goes
IMO if you are into retro anything, you should invest in a decent 3D printer--or find a friend with one and bring them sealed spools of filament to print your stuff. They really do solve so many problems, and really good ones that do not need a ton of tinkering with (but we like tinkering in retro tech) are getting into sub-$200 price ranges.
You can make the shaft longer, with an extension.. they are cheap on aliexpress..
I'm going to look into that!
Awesome work! 🤩👌 Wish they would produce new (9pin) ones again.
Having bought three of the C64 DTV sticks, two of which are gutted and in the process of modding into other things, I have a couple of those empty shells just waiting for me to turn into Competition Pro sticks if I can get myself round to actually doing it, probably not as simple as this, but that's all part of the challenge of making stuff work... :D
Very nice project...I like it a lot \o/
I prefer the original black leaf switch version, it's much faster and adjustable, but nice build. Definitely something different.
Jan, this wire stripping tool looks handy but its not listed in your tools list, do you remeber maybe where you have got it?
@@nemesis2264 yeah it might be it, thanks mate
Hey Jan, would it help to add a metal plate inside, over the bottom plate, to add some heft to it?
How about supporting a true second button in C64GS-style?
So basically you build an ArcadeR :D
I've just startet to print my own on my newly aquired 3D printer. I cam see that you need M3x7 screws on the 'manual'you are showing. Can you tell what size the other screws are? I would guess M3x15?
That may be the correct size. I’m not sure what I used because it was leftover stuff from my parts bin mostly. :/ Probably your best bet is to measure the length when the print is finished. The instructions (and my email conversation with the creator) only told me to use slightly longer M3 screws (without any exact measurements for those) I’m afraid. Hope yours turns out well!
The print finish looks kind of rough. Maybe a couple of coats of paint and sand paper would make it nice and polished :)
Ah, the memories of Alpharoid, Penguin Adventure, Buck Rogers and Sorcery on the SVI 738 -- all played with a yellow-buttoned joystick just like this. But I seem to remember it was a QuickShot-branded one? Were they legit? It was a really good stick in any case.
greetings from java island
I had heard from somewhere that Atari Paddles have to be changed somehow to properly work with Commodore 8-bit computers what is involved and could you do a possible video on how to convert Atari Paddles to more efficiently work with 8-bit Commodores?
Jan, how did you connect the auto fire button? The joystick PCB must support it?
DS9 and Voyager, eh?
No screws included with the joystick? 😢
I 3d printed 2 of these 3 years ago. Different thing, the one I done was just two peices.
Yup, there's quite a few different models around. I haven't tried any other ones but this one feels pretty good. :)
ciao, where did you buy 9 pin cable?
I salvaged this one from a broken joystick. You can buy inexpensive DE-9 joystick extension cords from several places (I think even Amazon) though which you can use for the purpose.
@@JanBeta thank you! And could you tell me where I have to connect 5V? Or not necessary?
If you just build a simple joystick without autofire etc you don’t have to connect the 5V.
@@JanBeta do you have a project for c64 paddles?
Very cool project, and probably mechanically superior to the original.
There is a part of me that kinda looks back and thinks that maybe a joystick just wasn't the best form factor for a controller for home machines. Yeah, they're perfect for flight sims, but for other stuff you would almost be better off with an NES style controller.
I think the microswitches in the original are easier to replace. I have one of this type joystick mechanism (or very similar) but it seems that the switches are soldered to a PCB. The Zippy brand is better (and costs a bit more) and it has replaceable microswitches too but it has different mounting so I'm afraid it would not fit into this case.
I have a replica and an original. The original is a bit knackered, but the replica is great! (I now realise this might be due to the different types of switches)
I swear I had a clear blue mini competition pro that had silver buttons , ball and auto fire switch , being smaller , to me made it quicker and more responsive. I can’t find any pictures online and unfortunately the stick is long gone .😢
Remember to always screw down,not up.
It is sad that this can be done with genuine sanwa parts, as the joystick is more or less direct clone of Sanwa JLF and arcade button sizes are standardized more or less. The clone does have better header that goes down instead of side.
You can also try to shop around for a clone or original JLF that has longer shaft that might match the original better, if you wish.
Eine USB Version würde nicht hineinpassen, oder?
Es gibt recht kleine USB-Platinen, die passen könnten. Ich habe das allerdings nicht ausprobiert. Mein Ansatz war, einen externen Adapter zu basteln, der alte DE-9 Joysticks zu USB-Joysticks konvertiert, weil ich halt sehr viele Originale in der Sammlung habe. Funktioniert sehr gut. Irgendwo auf diesem Kanal gibt es auch ein Video dazu.
The very last Jan video with a twitter link.
Indeed.
i know i'd have wired it up in reverse lolol
First 😂
You win a cookie. ;)
Here it is ... "username=John Doe; expires=Thu, 18 Dec 2013 12:00:00 UTC; path=/"; unfortunately its expired ... hope it wont be too stale
horrible joystick.
wasted money
Get Sanwa.