I am so glad I found this. This is what I searched for but had to go through too many non-related vids and adds before I got to you. You did it just as I thought except the bondo. Nice touch!
Thanks. By the way, I have done six doors like this. They are holding up pretty well. I also used a “green” bondo containing fiberglass. It was even stronger than the one I used in this video. Did take longer to sand it down. I used it on a door that had metal completely rusted away.
i have about 19 years experience in hollow metal doors and frames and i have to say you did a great job on the repair metal clad doors are not fun to work on and it is unbelievable that they don't use thicker woods and also a treated wood for exterior . most people do not think to use treated and i think it is a must. the bond was the only thing that shocked me but if you think about it is a form of glue because it sticks to everything but it will de-laminate if you do not add 1/8 " to 1/4" holes for it to grab to but i do not have any experience with the green stuff. 1 thing i think would be great is if they made caps for the tops like the door bottom weather striping that are u shaped for if you need to cut theme down but you did a great job on them
I agree with the need to use better materials. I have done six doors now. They all are holding up well. The “green” stuff is a fiberglass based Bondo that gets super hard. Almost too hard and takes longer to sand. Picking an adhesive was the biggest challenge. Some of the ones I looked into specifically said to not use on metal doors that are exposed to sunlight. I guess either heat or expansion would mess with the glue sticking. What adhesive have you found to work the best? Adding the holes is a good idea. Thanks for the comments.
@@FixItDepot yes it is the heat when i am working on guitars we use heat to break down the glues and they will just pull right apart. oh and steam too. but you did do a really great job on the doors.
I have repaired 6 doors. Some had almost no metal left but they all came out good. if there is a lot of rust try to use a grinder or something to remove as much as possible and also paint them quicky or the rust will bleed through the new paint. Good luck with it.
Same reason I started fixing them. Was going to cost around $3k for replacement of two doors at my son’s house, so we said let’s see if we can fix it. Glad we did.
@@hannahb2558 OMG… same here. My dad is a retired general contractor. He said they were “Masonite steel french/patio doors” & can be repaired, the hardware could be replaced & buy a new theatrical strip. Honestly, it sounded less stressful to just replace the doors until I priced the doors. It’s looking like we’ll be repairing the doors. If u repaired your patio doors, how did they turn out??
@@midlandstribullbabesmtbb309 my husband ended up using some kind of plastic wood and we Bondo'd the doors and replaced the weather strips at the bottom and so far so good! It was tedious, but worth the savings.
Thank you for sharing. I’m so glad I found this video. I’m gonna have to do this with my shed doors. They’re not metal clad however, I believe this will work.😊
Nice job have same issue here problem is water goes down outside side of plastic sweep rotting bottom, I will put a light film of sealant at edge of sweep after repair. Thanks for video!
Great video! Thanks for sharing this fix. Is there a particular type of bondo that you like to use? I am no expert at fixing doors, but watching you screw on the plastic casing on the bottom as the final step, I noticed how the plastic piece didn't seem to have sealed edges, which made me wonder if those things catch water somehow and leave it sitting on the wood (causing it to rot over time)? Either way your excellent fix will surely last many years to come, I am just wondering if there is anything else that can be done to prevent it from ever happening again. Thanks again, I learned a lot!
I used regular bondo. They make an extra strength also that could be used. The bondo worked really well and was very strong after curing overnight. I thought about using Liquid Nails also, but read that it should not be used on metal that is exposed to sunlight. What wasn’t shown in the video is that I sprayed the bottom of the doors with flex seal to help protect the wood more. I had some leftover from another project and used it because it was available. If I was going to buy something, I would get Redguard and waterproof the bottom wood with it. The weatherstripping wasn’t the type I wanted, but couldn’t find the original type that mounted underneath the door. I did seal the sides with silicone to try to keep the water from getting to the wood. You are smart to make sure to do everything you can to keep the water out.
Het zogenaamde Bondo is eigenlijk alleen maar geschikt voor binnenwerk. Voor dit soort reparaties is eigenlijk alleen maar Epoxy geschikt. Ook wordt vaak het schilderen van onder en boven zijde van de deur vergeten. Heel netjes gerepareerd, maar met Epoxy zou het beter zijn geweest. Met vriendelijke groet uit Nederland.
Going to need a router for the profile edge on the boards. The rest could be cut with a hand saw if needed. Other option is to find a friend with tools or rent one. Good luck with it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Have the exact same issue with my shed double doors. Thanks for this! What brand/kind of Door Bottom Shoe did you wind up attaching at the end of the video?
I bought a standard u shaped one from Home Depot because I couldn’t find one that matched the original slots that were cut into the door. I don’t remember the brand. Recently I saw the original ones at Swisco.com for about $5.50 each. Checkout their web site. Thanks and good luck with it.
@@carlosmadrid6217 I think teak would probably last longer than most other wood. I couldn’t say if it is a better choice than pressure treated. Either one would be better than the original wood they used.
Not that much if you are doing it yourself and have the tools. I would use the high strength bondo which cost about $24 and a treated 2x4, and some sanding pads.
The slots were cut on my table saw. Set the depth of cut by adjusting the blade height and ran it two times. One cut each run. Side profiles were cut on router. I ended up not using the slots after all. I could not find that weather stripping and ended up using a different style.
I have not experienced the laminating issues. Bondo makes a fiberglass based product too that I have used. I don’t think it will have any issues. I looked at some other adhesives but some mentioned they should not be used on metal that is in direct sunlight. I agree that some epoxy products should work but I am not as knowledgeable about them. Thanks for commenting and sharing your thoughts.
Yes. Some construction adhesives cannot be used on metal that is in direct sunlight. Says it in the fine print of there instructions. I guess it can get to hot and ruin the bond.
Mine was 1 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch on the bottom piece and 1 1/2 by 13/16 on the side piece. Not every door is the same. I would measure from another edge on the door to make sure.
If I am doing surface repairs I will sand it after 20 mins. For the main repair(inside boards) I wanted to make sure it was fully cured so I let it cure overnight. On another repair. I couldn’t wait that long and only waited about 2 hours.
Most exterior paints are fine. Most of the problems around my home are because the contractor used iron nails that rusted out over time. Water gets in and then starts the wood rot issue. Paying better attention and touching up the paint would have prevented most of mine.
paint those edges and caulk where the threshold meets wood on each side of the door. mine was not painted and the door rotted like yours and the manufacture would not cover it under warranty because it wasn't painted and caulked. and they should have made the edges out of treated lumber to begin with IM0. and have more wood in the hinge area.
Always have multiple options. This repair is strong and should last a long time. Just have to choose the option that is better for you. Thanks for watching.
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I am so glad I found this. This is what I searched for but had to go through too many non-related vids and adds before I got to you. You did it just as I thought except the bondo. Nice touch!
Thanks. By the way, I have done six doors like this. They are holding up pretty well. I also used a “green” bondo containing fiberglass. It was even stronger than the one I used in this video. Did take longer to sand it down. I used it on a door that had metal completely rusted away.
Exactly what I was looking for,thank you sir. Awesome video
i have about 19 years experience in hollow metal doors and frames and i have to say you did a great job on the repair metal clad doors are not fun to work on and it is unbelievable that they don't use thicker woods and also a treated wood for exterior . most people do not think to use treated and i think it is a must. the bond was the only thing that shocked me but if you think about it is a form of glue because it sticks to everything but it will de-laminate if you do not add 1/8 " to 1/4" holes for it to grab to but i do not have any experience with the green stuff. 1 thing i think would be great is if they made caps for the tops like the door bottom weather striping that are u shaped for if you need to cut theme down but you did a great job on them
I agree with the need to use better materials. I have done six doors now. They all are holding up well. The “green” stuff is a fiberglass based Bondo that gets super hard. Almost too hard and takes longer to sand. Picking an adhesive was the biggest challenge. Some of the ones I looked into specifically said to not use on metal doors that are exposed to sunlight. I guess either heat or expansion would mess with the glue sticking. What adhesive have you found to work the best? Adding the holes is a good idea. Thanks for the comments.
@@FixItDepot yes it is the heat when i am working on guitars we use heat to break down the glues and they will just pull right apart. oh and steam too. but you did do a really great job on the doors.
Thanks, I used the video to fix my mom's exterior garage door.
Glad to hear the video helped. Thanks for watching.
Good job repairing those two doors!
Thanks!
Super similar to our rotten french doors, thanks for posting.
I have repaired 6 doors. Some had almost no metal left but they all came out good. if there is a lot of rust try to use a grinder or something to remove as much as possible and also paint them quicky or the rust will bleed through the new paint. Good luck with it.
@@FixItDepot thank you so much! It's going to save us so much to repair instead of completely replace.
Same reason I started fixing them. Was going to cost around $3k for replacement of two doors at my son’s house, so we said let’s see if we can fix it. Glad we did.
@@hannahb2558 OMG… same here. My dad is a retired general contractor. He said they were “Masonite steel french/patio doors” & can be repaired, the hardware could be replaced & buy a new theatrical strip. Honestly, it sounded less stressful to just replace the doors until I priced the doors. It’s looking like we’ll be repairing the doors. If u repaired your patio doors, how did they turn out??
@@midlandstribullbabesmtbb309 my husband ended up using some kind of plastic wood and we Bondo'd the doors and replaced the weather strips at the bottom and so far so good! It was tedious, but worth the savings.
Thank you for this helpful video. I have 2 exterior doors to repair.
Good luck with the repairs. Once repaired the doors are very strong and should last for a long time.
Thank you for sharing. I’m so glad I found this video. I’m gonna have to do this with my shed doors. They’re not metal clad however, I believe this will work.😊
It should work on others too. Good luck with it.
Nice job have same issue here problem is water goes down outside side of plastic sweep rotting bottom, I will put a light film of sealant at edge of sweep after repair. Thanks for video!
Where are you located. I live in Gulf Breeze FL. And my metal door was replaced just 3 years ago and is rotted.
Awesome Video! and great camera too btw
Thank You for a good video. Getting ready to do MY front door.
Thanks for watching. Hope your repair goes well.
Thank you for the video!
Thanks for sharing, your instructions are clear & concise🤗
Thanks for watching!
Well done! Thanks.
Great video! Thanks for sharing this fix. Is there a particular type of bondo that you like to use? I am no expert at fixing doors, but watching you screw on the plastic casing on the bottom as the final step, I noticed how the plastic piece didn't seem to have sealed edges, which made me wonder if those things catch water somehow and leave it sitting on the wood (causing it to rot over time)? Either way your excellent fix will surely last many years to come, I am just wondering if there is anything else that can be done to prevent it from ever happening again. Thanks again, I learned a lot!
I used regular bondo. They make an extra strength also that could be used. The bondo worked really well and was very strong after curing overnight. I thought about using Liquid Nails also, but read that it should not be used on metal that is exposed to sunlight.
What wasn’t shown in the video is that I sprayed the bottom of the doors with flex seal to help protect the wood more. I had some leftover from another project and used it because it was available. If I was going to buy something, I would get Redguard and waterproof the bottom wood with it. The weatherstripping wasn’t the type I wanted, but couldn’t find the original type that mounted underneath the door. I did seal the sides with silicone to try to keep the water from getting to the wood. You are smart to make sure to do everything you can to keep the water out.
@@FixItDepot Thanks for the reply. Good thinking on the flex seal and silicone!
How about adhesive glue that you put countertops down with that's what looks like what used from the factory
Thanks
Very Good Video - Thank you!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Het zogenaamde Bondo is eigenlijk alleen maar geschikt voor binnenwerk. Voor dit soort reparaties is eigenlijk alleen maar Epoxy geschikt. Ook wordt vaak het schilderen van onder en boven zijde van de deur vergeten. Heel netjes gerepareerd, maar met Epoxy zou het beter zijn geweest. Met vriendelijke groet uit Nederland.
Looking for a professional to do this exact thing for my door. Most door repair companies only offer to replace the whole door.
I think it might be hard to find someone. They all want the easier jobs.
If you didn’t have a table saw or a router, as I do not, how would you fit a replacement piece of wood?
Going to need a router for the profile edge on the boards. The rest could be cut with a hand saw if needed. Other option is to find a friend with tools or rent one. Good luck with it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Have the exact same issue with my shed double doors. Thanks for this! What brand/kind of Door Bottom Shoe did you wind up attaching at the end of the video?
I bought a standard u shaped one from Home Depot because I couldn’t find one that matched the original slots that were cut into the door. I don’t remember the brand. Recently I saw the original ones at Swisco.com for about $5.50 each. Checkout their web site. Thanks and good luck with it.
@@FixItDepot I thank you for the quick response and all the sound advice!
How do you stop the rot before it gets too bad, polyurethane or maybe paint?
Either one should help.
If instead of pressure treated wood, what do you think if I use teak wood instead?
@@carlosmadrid6217 I think teak would probably last longer than most other wood. I couldn’t say if it is a better choice than pressure treated. Either one would be better than the original wood they used.
Good job, any idea o how much that job will cost?
Not that much if you are doing it yourself and have the tools. I would use the high strength bondo which cost about $24 and a treated 2x4, and some sanding pads.
Nice job. How did you go about cutting the kerf slots on the bottom piece? Thanks
The slots were cut on my table saw. Set the depth of cut by adjusting the blade height and ran it two times. One cut each run. Side profiles were cut on router. I ended up not using the slots after all. I could not find that weather stripping and ended up using a different style.
For a repair like this an epoxy putty should have been used. Bondo is polyester based, known to delaminate in humid conditions.
I have not experienced the laminating issues. Bondo makes a fiberglass based product too that I have used. I don’t think it will have any issues. I looked at some other adhesives but some mentioned they should not be used on metal that is in direct sunlight. I agree that some epoxy products should work but I am not as knowledgeable about them. Thanks for commenting and sharing your thoughts.
Any reason you used Bondo over something like construction adhesive?
Yes. Some construction adhesives cannot be used on metal that is in direct sunlight. Says it in the fine print of there instructions. I guess it can get to hot and ruin the bond.
Where did u get the wood that fit so perfectly
That was cut from a treated 2x4 to fit the gap in the door.
Great video !!! what was the bottom size of the door wood?
Mine was 1 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch on the bottom piece and 1 1/2 by 13/16 on the side piece. Not every door is the same. I would measure from another edge on the door to make sure.
@@FixItDepot Your awesome man! love the videos... Thank you
Should have coated the wood with marine epoxy to make it water tight
I agree. That’s a good idea.
Any idea on what size router cut you did?
I think it was approximately 3/16” x 3/16”.
This was so helpful! How long do you leave the bondo to dry?
If I am doing surface repairs I will sand it after 20 mins. For the main repair(inside boards) I wanted to make sure it was fully cured so I let it cure overnight. On another repair. I couldn’t wait that long and only waited about 2 hours.
Thank you! This is so helpful! I’m fixing my door this weekend and I am a new DYI’er!
Do you have any suggestions for sealing the wood to prevent rot before it starts? I was thinking an epoxy paint.
Most exterior paints are fine. Most of the problems around my home are because the contractor used iron nails that rusted out over time. Water gets in and then starts the wood rot issue. Paying better attention and touching up the paint would have prevented most of mine.
@@FixItDepot thank you
paint those edges and caulk where the threshold meets wood on each side of the door. mine was not painted and the door rotted like yours and the manufacture would not cover it under warranty because it wasn't painted and caulked. and they should have made the edges out of treated lumber to begin with IM0. and have more wood in the hinge area.
I wish they would use treated wood too. For a few more bucks for treated wood and it would last much longer.
That should not even be allowed to be sold in this country.
If its damaged/broke/rotten/water damaged/been on fire/submerged/blown up/ hurricane damaged/ in the eyes of some BONDO is the answer.
Rot Repair? A waste of time. I find it best to replace the door. More expensive? Yes, but better going foward. JMO
Always have multiple options. This repair is strong and should last a long time. Just have to choose the option that is better for you. Thanks for watching.