Repair Trim Rot (Skirt Board and Corner Board)
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
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Skirt board and corner boards are areas that experience frequent trim rot. This video from The Honest Carpenter will explain how to cut out rotted portions of trim and replace them with new lumber that will be protected from future trim rot.
Tools:
Miter Saw
Oscillating Multi-tool
Brad Nailer
Compressor
Combination Square
Speed Square
Nail Puller
Hammer
Five-in-one
Materials:
Pine Trim Boards
Treated Pine Deck Board (5/4)
Caulk
Exterior Paint
Galvanized Brads
How-To:
1) Mark new cut lines around trim rot with a combination square or speed square and pencil.
2) Cut through marked lines with oscillating multi-tool.
3) Remove trim rot pieces with hammer and five-in-one.
4) Measure for replacement trim piece
5) Cut replacement trim piece.
6) Attach replacement trim piece with brads
7) Paint replacement trim pieces with exterior-grade paint.
FYI: Wood rot like this is commonly a problem that begins on original trim installation. Use of inferior products, such as any form of MDF trim, and fast construction techniques will inevitably lead to trim rot. While some areas of your home are more prone to this sort of wood rot, be sure to do frequent walkarounds and self-inspections of your house. If one area is showing trim rot like this, other parts of your house may be in similar phases of rot. If caught early enough, these trim rot repairs are mostly surface remediation--you can avoid penetrative wood rot that moves beyond trim, into the sheathing and framing of your home.
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I have made similar repairs to my trim when the rot was in a location where I didn't want to replace the entire trim board. In order to ensure a straight edge when cutting with the multi-tool, I screw in a piece of scrap wood along my pencil line to use as a guide for the blade. I screw it in using 2 screws making sure not to penetrate into the sheathing. Make sure to screw it in to the side of the wood you are removing. After you make your cut and pry off the "bad" section of trim, the screwed in guide comes with it leaving a perfectly straight cut.
❤
The rot on my corner trim boards is much higher up and it's bad. I haven't found a carpenter to do the job so I need to do the work myself.
Thanks for your thorough demonstration. It helps.
my wife and I are about to buy a house from my in laws that they have used as a rental property. some of the trim around the garage is rotted and I was convinced the whole piece needed to be replaced. Thanks for this video! I'm now confident I can do it on my own for cheap!
Good job.
I dip my cutted end pieces in wood preventives before assembly. That's the Achilles heels of wood near water contacts.
Thanks for the video. It does help me think about how to approach a similar repair. 2 things I've come to learn that I'd do differently: 1) the corner trim splice should be angled up and in, so any water drains down and away from house. 2) Prime before caulking. Something about better adhesion.
That's the technique I use, doesn't even need to be a 45° cut either. A 15° works just fine.
And always use and oil or lacquer base primer on treated wood
Thank you so much for this repair video, I was able to complete a small project I never believed I could do, it was truly appreciated!
@Michelle Ales You’re welcome! Thanks so much for watching. And congratulations on the repair! Successfully tackling carpentry projects is one of the most rewarding experiences out there. I’ve always found it empowering 🙂
The building paper should have been replaced as well with a vapor permeable membrane correctly tiled into the existing building paper.
The other and most important reason to back putting is to allow both faces of the board to aquire and dry out moisture at the same rate which prevents cupping curling and reduces face checking
Thanks for taking the time to do the job right. That siding wasn't caulked properly where it met the mdf trim board. I use dynaflex 230. I have a brand new home and I found all kinds of places on the exterior that weren't sealed. We have Sherwin Williams Superpaint on our house. Nice job.
This is a repair I need to do this spring. Thanks to you I feel a little more confident I will be able to do it. Thanks so much Ethan
You’re welcome maddog, good luck with the repair!
We normally angle the cut of the piece we install so water can't run down and in at the join when the cauking and paint fail...which they will
Thank you for this very important info, because this is my next home project.
I got your hints on replacing these type of timbers. Another hint you have without trying to is I have a saw like you used to cut the board and I loved how you used the saw to cut first track as guide, then you cut board deeper to allow sawdust escape then cut gradually into the timber until full cut complete. I was using my saw wrong all along being too impatient by expecting and trying to cut fully into each part as I moved along the wood. I must try your style tomorrow on small non important jobs for practice on wood before thinking of trying decent jobs that can be noticeable. Thanks I would love to see you do a video in the future on using these saws they are really great asset
Awesome thank you so much for the encouragement. Your video has been the best I’ve seen so far ❤️
Better what it used to be but can be even better if bottom edge of that skirt board is cut and slight angle which forms drip edge.
Also cut on that vertical piece can be on angle which prevent more to water seep in even though you used that caulking to seal end grain.
Mr. Wizeguy Thanks for writing in. Good call on the weather cut. A handful of folks have suggested it here, I’ll give it a try
Thanks for helping me do my own repairs
I wish you lived near me! You are so professional and go great work!
I’m preparing to do this exact project. Your video gave me some great tips on making the job go easier. Thanks for posting !
A constructive comment to you and the viewers. Never caulk unprimed wood. The latex/silicone caulk needs primer for the same reason latex finish or top coat paints need primer.
I actually learned this while working - I noticed that caulk did not adhere to bare wood at all (Alex Plus) and fill in the holes without having to keep pushing it into the hole. But when I primed first, the caulking adhered and filled in the holes with a single pass.
i've never had a problem caulking unprimed wood with dynaflex or similar caulks, nor is it required in the instructions. idk what caulk you are using.
@@hiker64 alex plus is horrible for damp areas.
Unless the caulk specifically says it’s made to adhere to wood! Which there are plenty on the market that do!
Spends on the type of caulk..
Ah, I’ve been using the oscillating cutter all wrong. Thanks for the tip!
You’re welcome, Susan! Work safe 🙂
@@TheHonestCarpenter
Wow !!! 6:21 - So bad job : you didnt remove this rotten part. Shame ...
Thank you very much for this video. It helped me do exactly what I needed.
Good job sealing the end grain, back priming, and using PT wood. I would have cut those splices with a 45 degree scarf.
Wouldn't it be extremely difficult to cut a scarf miter with an oscillating tool? Especially on the corner board as you'd want the top piece to lap over the replacement piece. I agree with the scarf doing this job from scratch, but for what he was doing, I think sealed butt joints like he did would be the most economical and aesthetic solution outside of replacing both entire trim boards.
@@marshmutt8975 Cut another similar board at a 45 degree angle and use it as a guide. Secure it against the old board and slide the oscillating blade along that edge and into the old board. Makes for an easy angled cut.
I have a few of those exact repairs to do around my house, only it's old wood and not MDF
A 45 degree joint on vertical trim sure prevents rot better than a flat one you got there...
Love these multi tool gadget. Saws all was the go too but was not nearly precise
I really prefer Bondo or Exterior Spackle over caulking for the splice with the new material as it sands better than caulking. Especially for the more expensive caulking with Silicone
Ever have any problems with it cracking or anything?
@@HomeGrownPyro1 If you are worried about cracking Bondo is your best bet. Don't forget it was intended to repair car dents and is extremely tough. It also hardens very fast (so don't mix too much at once!). It is best to buy the red additive because it makes it easier to know if it is mixed properly by noting the color.
How much did this repair cost the homeowner. Always curious how much things cost to get repaired
nice video. always caulk AFTER painting wood
A very good video. It's amazing how the splices almost disappear!
Thanks Jobacuda!
Beautiful work… I will try to do this myself 😊
I don't really trust mdf to hold up against the elements.I used cypress on my garage, and so far so good.And yes it was pricey.
This video helps a lot thank you. We are purchasing a new home and there is some rot around a window sill and the front pillars that needs to be replaced that were hoping to do ourselves.
I like to use a little bit of liquid nails in the back before nailing the trim down helps to keep nails and trim from wanting to pull up in time !
When your literally using real nails you shouldn't need liquid nails. His nail size was incorrect.
@@johnwaynebrooks You got that right. This guy I'd fire.
Your video n narration is excellent. Thank you 🙏🏼
Good job thanks! I’m thinking of fixing my friends trim on the roof line. This helped.
Way to cut that downspout
Awesome tips and tricks. Great job, easy to follow.
Lovely job ethan👍
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Evelyn Cutler You’re welcome! Thanks for watching 🙂
I would have used bondo where the seems show. Good job though.
Wish you could come over to replace the boards in my house. My estimates have been through the roof. I’d love to try and do it myself.
Great video. Just an idea. The cut piece of treated wood may not be useful for anything else. I would think about taking more of the cornerboard off and replacing it. I understand the risk of collateral damage. Again. Just an idea.
It only cause the home owner more $. Sure, the more replacement the better. If he or she is willing to pay for the extra expense.
I was a Builder back in the 80's and 90's .. even back then there were non-wood alternatives which I used. Unless you're living in the Sahara desert all your wood will eventually rot. My current Florida home has zero wood exposed to the exterior. Masonite is insane to put the outside, we knew it then... My neighbors are just now starting to replace soffits, exterior door trim, or you naming it, any wood on the outside just after a decade.
Hey D, thanks for writing in! I agree, exterior masonite is one of the worst ideas to come out of the 80's and 90's, a time period famed for bad/fast construction practices. Hardie and cellular PVC are great products for longevity--I can only imagine they're all the better in Florida. I still think paint upkeep probably plays the most important factor, regardless of materials used, just because seams around ANY material have to be in good shape to prevent water ingress. But if that's tended to routinely, you're correct, non-wood, inorganic materials will probably outlast the builder :)
@@TheHonestCarpenter .. Even then we had clad windows and doors, fibre cement siding, fiberglass doors, and so on. At the very least the Builders could vinyl and aluminum wrap any exposed wood.
Worse the Builders today still haven't learned. To me it's asinine especially in rainy states that are primarily built using concrete block and stucco to use any wood on the exterior. Actually it's one thing I hate about Florida, everything's concrete block and stucco .. crap I won't even use on a detached garage in Kentucky. But it is what it is.
You do fine work. Thanks
Nice job. Clean work.
Particle board were used on exterior? I would have replaced the disintegrated paper. Looks like the piece around the corner next to the bottom of the downspout was rotted but not replaced. Yep back side should be painted but why cut the section so long (4.5 feet)?
Truncate. I am using that one.
You mentioned using a paint plus primer. Im very doubtful of this product. I use a primer made bu Glidden called gripper. I have used it on a boat deck, left in the Florida sun and salt air for over a year before health and other factors allowed me to finish. There was no deterioration, none, zero. It will soak in, seal and repel water. Drys in about 20 min. Forget Kills. 2 coats even look like a pretty good topcoat.
Very nice job
You are better off using regular primmer, as there is no such thing as paint plus primer. It's just heavier paint so if water gets behind your repair the paint will just peal off. Other wise your repair is excellent.
I didn’t know that Rick. Thanks for the tip, and thanks for watching!
@@TheHonestCarpenter you let em have that one ? 😂😂😂
Nice job. Thanks for sharing.
Is there a video on different types of wood that should be used in various applications
You’re suppose to oil prime bare wood before caulking.
Just curious about how much you charged for this fix and how long it took you.... Would you share?
Have you ever used wood filler to fill between the old and new boards? Would make it be seamless.
What wood filler do you use. I’ve made similar trim repairs and I used minwax wood filler between the old and new boards. It’s not flexible enough and has started cracking. I’ve searched for a 2 step acrylic filler as suggested on This Old House but I’m having trouble finding one.
Nice work bud.
Can you do a video on how best to replace rotted drip edge above the skirt board? I am sure I am going to have to lift the hardy plank, but would like to see it done before I attempt it.
I want to get around to it soon Philip! You can sometimes rotate it out without removing siding or trim below
I'm going to have to be tackling this soon too.
Really good advice. I learned a bunch.
Why not use a pressure treated board seeing as this area comes into more contact with water than the rest of the trim board?
@Adonna Pruette Good question. It can be hard to find treated lumber in the 1x8 and 1x10 dimension, and the treatment process makes pine grain really pop out sometimes. If anything, I would probably go with cellular pvc in those dimensions, though it can still be crazy pricey 😬
2:39 Look at that cheap looking cardboard crap. They used that same garbage on my house siding and i had to replace it all with hardie board, because it was rotting off.
Subbed thanks G😊
We have cedar lap and gap (tongue and groove) siding and have been sealing the horizontal joints with Masterseal np1 caulk sealant. I have read in numerous places to not caulk between horizontal siding, because it needs to drain any water which could possibly get behind it and it has to move with expansion and contraction of the boards. The transition between the slab and skirt board have also allowed these small cridders into our house. The siding was installed correctly, but over the course of 30 plus years the boards have some gaps between the joints. Friends and family members who are carpenters have informed me as long as you keep the siding sealed and treated there shouldn't be a problem with water getting behind the siding and to seal these horizontal joints. By these boards not being sealed we have introduced carpenter ants, scorpions and other cridders. Does anyone have a suggestion please? Thanks
Thanks, I hVe that exact repair to be done on my house.
Nice work
@Wiley Sanders Thank you!
Thank you for all the great videos. Would like to know how to fix the rotting bottom of bat and board siding, no skirt board. And is there a way to add a skirt to the bottom of a bat and board home.
What was the caulk used ? 🤔
Good demo and very neat job! Congrats. God bless.
Looks great 👍
another beauty
Even on deck board, only the factory edges are treated. You need to seal any cut edges, especially end grain.
Pressure treated wood is a process where chemicals infused into the board using vacuum.
You are thinking of prestained decking
Good work
Great Video
Without being a professional construction worker, I would have preferred to see the whole boards replaced, and what's underneath inspected, washed and coated somehow. Is the house wrap adequate, broken, is there mold/rot underneath? Is the junction with the foundation leaking/wicking from the concrete into the wood? I understand working within the client's limitations, so I guess I'm more concerned about the client than your work.
This is extremely helpful information. Thank you so much! New sub. 😊👍
If I have all the tools to do this job already then what do I need this video for. Cut out and replace..ok
did you treat the rot before sealing up?
Why would anyone use MDF trim on the outside of a house?? That stuff sucks up water like a sponge. My home is all Hardie Plank siding and trim. The only wood I have outside is the heart redwood tounge and groove soffit under the prow eaves, and side overhangs. It is not exposed to the weather, and is still in great shape after 20 years. Good that you are sealing up all six sides of your repair pieces. Most don’t take the time to do that, especially when replacing T11 siding.
Would PVC have worked for this repair instead of wood?
We have a water trim table that is rotted. Do you have a video that shows how to repair that element of the trim and siding?
Need to address the damaged flashing paper.
Nice, butI don’t have strength or tools to do this. I need patch.
Your craftmanship and teaching abilities are awesome! Your nail choice is ok but I would go with a longer nail and bigger head, brad nailers should only be used for decorative pieces on the exterior trim, not shear panels. Your wood choice is a problem. Cedar and smart panel would of been a better longer lasting option. Pine is a poor choice for rot and bug resistance and treated wood often sweats chemicals which stains and warps after installation due to curing. I wouldn't of patched the vertical piece but replace the entire thing so it didn't always look like a scabbed piece and I would of replaced the part behind the gutter because it was showing signs of rot also (better patch candidate). Have a great day!
Is it better to do a straight cut or an angled cut when joining the boards together?
great video, learned some tips to help my house "repairs" :) thanks!
Good video and I love the tools that you were using for the job!
Have you ever tried the penetrating epoxy sealers and/or rot fix epoxy putty products by System Three and others?
Nice. Thanks for doing this video.
I have a question: I noticed a few tears in the vapour barrier - did you do anything to seal up the vapour barrier ?
Ty
Nice video but SAFETY GLASSES!
Do you recommend primed pine or PVC for rotted trim replacement? Also, for replacing rotted clapboard, would you also use primed pine (all sides) or cedar? And if cedar, primed or not? No carpenter I talk to agrees on this. What would you use?
Pvc for high water contact areas, Mary. Primed cedar will last a crazy long time too. Pine, even back-primed, will fail the soonest. But if you can keep water from splashing on it constantly, it can still last a long time.
@@TheHonestCarpenter Thank you! You just helped me a lot. I very much appreciate it!
Great work. I'm evaluating whether to replace entire vertical trim or section around French Sliders on deck. Any ideas on how to make the splices look more seamless since this will be more visible than skirt and trim repair shown? Thanks again!
Hey Daniel, thanks for watching! For vertical casings, you may want to replace the whole piece, especially if it's brick mold. That's pretty much the only way to guarantee a seamless look I'm afraid. But, if the casing is flat, I do think there's a good chance you could cut and splice in a new piece in similar fashion to how I did it here, though you may want to use cellular pvc for anything that sits closer to the ground than this skirt board :)
Did you repaint all the trim on this one
hi, i m wondeing how much will it cost to replace entire house exterior skirt board and corner board. the house is 3000 sqft
Your videos are really helpful, thank you!
Thank you John!
Did you wipe away the mildew under the corner piece?
I’ve seen several of your repairs you use”dried deckboard “ wood how long do you let the deck board dry?
If the new board warps it will look bad at the seam correct?
Wouldn’t a piece of flashing, housewrap or tarpaper under that corner help to keep the eventual leak from getting to the house?
What would you recommend to secure the new 1x10 (in my case) since I don’t have a nail gun?
I was thinking small drill holes as not to crack when screwing in the 2 1/2” wood screws. That should do it right?
You are hired haha
Can you use an oscillating cutter to remove lap siding?
why not? They cut through anything.
I recently bought a house, and this was one of them 'problems' that came with the house. How much would you typically charge for what you've done in the video?
@Gaming Mimo It’s a little hard to say because pricing differs drastically by place. But in my area you could probably expect to pay about $400-600
Rip off.
@@engalvan Rip off as in $400 - $600 is to little to charge for a contractor to survive, or to much to charge a home owner?
Better then under bidding yourself like I did on the current job I’m working on.
I’m replacing a couple small pieces of trim like in the video, as well as replacing the old wooden soffit and fascia on the left side of a 2 story house (about 35ft long) for $800 🤣
This is my first season working for myself and def need some practice to get better with the estimates, because this job is taking a lot longer then I anticipated. So I’m not making anything on this job. But that is my own fault, can’t go back and tell the customer I need more money because my estimate was off