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Thank you for taking the time to put this video together. I had been putting off this job on a couple doors for too long and tackled them today. They look better than new. Before reading the comments, I also made a few modifications that have already been mentioned (45 degree horizontal cut, plunge vertical cut so the old/bad piece comes right out). But watching the video made the job go MUCH faster and problem-free. I realize that the video is 2 years old, but wanted you to know that it is still helping people! Thanks again.
After doing this job three times in 10 years on the same door, I finally ripped all that trim out and replaced it with vinyl. No more painting, no more rotting. Did the same thing for my garage surrounds, for the same reason, with the same result. Looks great, no more rot!
I was just wondering the the same thing. Why not replace with PVC. It cannot rot. Even pressure treated is more resistant to rot and water damage, but it’s still wood. The only downside I can see with using PVC is it’s not as durable as wood, it dents easily a door trim or window sill that shouldn’t be an issue, but a garage frame? In the winter months we get snow, and shoveling out around the doors could be an issue. How well has yours held up to life?
@@jamesmchugo9422 My door frame has been in for five years, my garage trim has been in for four. I did have to replace one piece of garage trim after I accidentally hit it with the auger on my snow blower. Other than that, it has been remarkable resilient.
Thanks for your video. I repaired a rotte door jam on our outbuilding using these instructions. Worked like a charm and looks professional! My husband was impressed. He said "now I don't have to hire someone." Hell, no, we can do it! Thanks to you!!!!
I called three separate carpenters for estimates on repairing my door jamb (walk in cellar). Both sides were rotted on the outside in the jamb to a height of 24". They all said the entire unit must be replaced (including a door) and quoted me $1200.00-$1450.00. I wasn't born yesterday, I could tell they were thieves. I bought a cheap oscillating multitool for $39.00 at Harbor Freight tools. I took out the weather exposed side cutting it by the door stop. I purchased PVC trim at HD. I'm old so I took my time. Took me about 6 hours of fussing. Total cost was $175.00. I was told it looked better than what a carpenter could do. It will last forever being made of PVC Veranda. So it matched, I did all three sides and used top quality stainless screws. I know I went a bit overboard on framing the door. But it looks so good. I kept the heavy steel door and there was not one bit of rust on it. I originally installed the unit 37 years ago.
I live in Douglasville Georgia and had the same idea. PVC will not rot.. But did you create a ledge with the hinged part of the casing? I can't ever find the right replacement because 34 yrs ago it must have been different. Its sad they didn't think ahead.
I'm new to doing my own home wood repairs, and for the last 2 months I have seen over fifty videos on door repairs and on this one video I learned a whole lot more. I feel like your in my head knowing all the question I have about this kind of work and you have all the answers, thanks and I have subscribed.
Thank you Hi-Yo! I always try to over explain a little bit because I know how many questions my clients usually have for me. I’m glad this was helpful. Thanks for subscribing!
To make it easier to cut a straight line, tack a guide strip to the lower part of the board. Let the multi-use tool blade rest on the guide strip while cutting. Even someone like me who's hands shake quite a bit can make a straight cut this way.
That's helpful as well! I was trying to hang cabinets the other day, and found the tip of putting a strip of straight 2x4 level as a shelf to make the cabinets easier to hold and easier to get level.
In addition it can be good to have the guide block be beveled so that it’s at say a 20:degree angle (ripped on a table saw or cut on a mitre saw). When you run the saw along tip it to the angled piece so the remaining jamb is angled down and the piece you put in is at the same angle also cut at the same angle on your table saw or mitre saw. That way it is flashed downward allowing water to be less likely ever to infiltrate the joint. Not a huge big deal but added protection.
You did a pretty good job on this jamb repair.... I've seen jambs rot like this for 4 decades now...and you only had two choices to repair it, either tear out the whole frame, or repair it like you did.... For the past 15 years or so, the Jamb materials have gotten better, and this type of repair should no longer be a problem....If the proper frame is used in the correct location.... I am a Door Builder by trade,, Building both standard and custom Exterior entry units.... And Currently there are 3 types of standard Jamb materials that we use... Primed fingerjoint pine jambs, Frame saver pine jambs, and Solid composite jambs.... The primed pine jambs should Ideally be installed in locations not exposed to direct weather, like a Garage, a Porch, or location that has a large over hang...... Frame saver jambs are our main sellers, because they pretty much Eliminate the type of rot that you just fixed... these are pine jambs, but the lower 4 inches are made of a Composite material to eliminate water penetration at the Jamb/sill joint... The all Composite frames are the best,, due to the fact of never having to worry about any rot,, but they are pretty pricey.....SOooo... As the old saying goes.... "You get what you pay for"....
@Ol' Moe Thanks for writing in! Awesome to hear you're a door builder. My grandfather built custom doors and windows, and he was a top outboard motor mechanic as well. I've definitely seen the frame saver jambs you mention--they just haven't caught on in my area yet! Lately I've been doing this same repair with PVC, as the price has dropped so drastically in this last year or two. But pine, especially finger joint, is so prone to failure in these areas. I've never really been a fan of fingerjoint anywhere outside--high humidity levels alone seem to make the joints express. Inside the home the stuff seems far more stable. Where do you build doors? Thanks again for writing in!
@@TheHonestCarpenter I live and work near the coast of Myrtle Beach South Carolina...Here the building industry is growing steadily every year, with more and more people moving into the area.... I also, have never been a fan of Finger Joint material,, when used for any frame work, doors or windows...Mainly due to each glue joint being a place for trouble to start.... As far as the Frame Saver jambs,,, The cost only adds a few more dollars to the price of the unit...But will save you from sill rot later on down the road.... Thanks for replying back...Keep up the good work....
Actually, there is a third choice that I have used many times on cheap rental properties in particular. Cut out the rotted areas with a chisel. Then fill in the area with concrete mortar. Before I put in the concrete mortar I usually paint all of the exposed areas with a termite killer. This is a fast and easy repair requiring very few tools.
Watched this video a long time ago but remembered it. I just came back to say thank you and tell you this video helped me fix my own issue here on my house. Thank you!!!!
Pro handyman here. I used to repair the same way. Will rot again. Clean up, remove rot, fill with foam, glue/nail pvc plank in front as you would a baseboard, silicone/call up to you...done in no time and will never rot again.
Used your video to do this today. Was able to find a three foot section of jamb at Home Depot. So didn't have to cut my own groove. I sealed the ends as you suggested which is a good tip even for treated wood. Thanks for putting this together and supporting DIYers.
Wow. I just came across you because I had other questions to ask and I'm watching your videos and all of a sudden there was my problem video. Thank you so much you are a saint. I'm a 55 year old female who had wood rot on these door jambs and first I thought it was termites it was termites but I guess it's not mine is pretty deep. But I'm going to do everything that you said again I'm a 55 year old female and I'm going to dig in. Thank you so much for all of your kindness and support and help for people who need you
And by the way, thank you SOOOOOO very much for recommending the PVC boards. Replacing most of my trim, and all of the sections that are sitting on the brick with it. Well worth the money.
Damn. I would consider myself to know quite a bit about home repair and remodeling. But I always learn something (usually several things) from every one of your videos. Thanks for taking the time to share.
I was taught by a professional carpenter to cut in a step pattern rather than cutting straight across. It would lock in better and be more supportive. Thanks for sharing!
Because all men should just automatically know how to do this. You should be honored, recognized, and rewarded for your courage, bravery, and ambition. You precious, perfect, honorable, courageous independent woman. We should have a parade in your honor.
Thanks for posting this great video. My parent's house needs this kind of repair, now I know what I need to do and how to do it. The only thing that I would do in your case is not use the shims but use long strips of would, the thickness needed and put them behind on each side of the new board in order to have an even backing. This video was very informative. Thanks again.
Good vid! Quick tip for you. The surgical line you speak of...if you want it to disapear, very slightly bevel the existing edge and new edge of the cut line with sand paper. Install your piece, and once adhesive sets up, use some automotive body filler over that area. Sand it flush once dry, and your ready for paint! You did a nice job, so might aswell take one more step to making it look invisible to the normal eye. The caulking shrinks back and you'll always see that cut line.
That was helpful to see how ours will be done. I thought I could handle it myself but after seeing all these details, there is no way I have the proper tools and abilities to do such a previously thought easy repair. You said in the video you've NEVER seen the inner door jamb with the rotten place, I have an inner door jamb on the underside of the hinge that has rotted out and so, I'm thinking either get a new door and have them just replace the entire door and thus the whole thing is repaired and replaced vs paying the carpenter the $800+ he wanted to do the lower jamb outside and the inner jamb below the hinge. Cheaper to get the door and install vs getting it repaired. So much for DIY.
Good idea, just make sure who you hire is qualified and insured, so worth having a good contractor do and wonderful installation, if they are really good they don't even mind you watching.
Get the door with the fake wood on the outside. A little more expensive , but worth it. Comes in white so you don't have to paint jambs, but you can paint if you want a different color.
Dude, for $800 he should replace the whole hung door and apologize for pulling your leg. That’s an astronomically overinflated estimated. Call another carp, please.
Nicely done! When purchasing a new door upgrade your jamb (Door frame) to composite bottom or complete composite jamb. Generally the first place water damage is found on an exterior door is at the bottom of the jamb as this video shows. A composite bottom jamb has the bottom 6-8 inches of the jamb and brickmould made from a composite material which won't rot. Or go with a complete composite jamb. Its a great investment for a little amount. Hmmm, I sound like a door salesman or something...LOL
I watched the video w/interest as I've spent 30+ years in the field as a residential finish carpenter/cabinet maker. I'd be the first to admit, none of us "old guys" possess all the answers or angles, however I feel there are a few outstanding issues yet addressed here that are a disservice to a homeowner(s) & ourselves, as craftsman that need consideration. Generally speaking, door & window manufacturers have, for the last 30-40+ years, supplied the trades w/finger jointed jambs for interior and exterior jamb applications. Clear wood jambs can be specified at the time of ordering, however, at a significant up charge, which typically was the exception and not the rule in application. In this particular instance, I'm not certain that yellow pine, (chiefly the wood used in pressure treated wood products), but also becoming more and more prevelant w/ interior millwork, that this is the material of choice for a exterior jamb repair - even "dried". y.p. moves (expands/contracts) at a different rate than the spruce/pine/fir finger joint jamb material which is commonly used today. Additionally, y.p. grows differently, faster, has a different density than white pine/spruce, is not as stable (much more brittle) and doesn't perform/hold up as well when introduced or exposed to moisture long term. To the point, look closely at any exterior y.p. decking material - vertical or horizontal in application. Whether it's treated for moisture and exposure - after the intial 6-8, or even 10 month drying time, to receive and absorb an applied sealant - it still checks, along the length of each board. That's why Trex decking & similiar products have surged as a go-to decking material. My experience early on is that in repair work, y.p., especially p.t., checks (cracks) similiarly along the length of the board over time in exterior applications. Whether you're using "dry treated" boards before priming/painting or not - y.p. inherently checks, in time, no matter how you treat it after installation ...take it to the bank...it just does. There's a reason you don't typically find finger jointed y.p. door jambs - treated or untreated wood, used on EXTERIOR applications, w/entry doors. Additionally, 2" finish nails, or even 3" nails for that matter will not keep a y.p. board flat - the board WILL MOVE, curl, with the grain and, eventually, resists being fixed/nailed, by checking (cracking) along grain lines. It must & will relieve inherent stresses within the board, it's the nature of y.p. This allows moisture in, which can lead to paint failure & eventually, decay. I've replaced more than a few of these y.p. "patch boards" through the years on doors AND windows - they will move and decay - even p.t. boards - more so than the regular pine f.j. board... they just do. Lastly, the repair does look cosmetically pleasing initially, but the sill is left unsecured to the bottom of the jamb & it will move out of place over time - foot traffic, constant opening/closing of the door, house movement - and the structure does move/settle over time, even minimally; caulking will not remedy the joint long term, causing potentially more damage beneath the sill and framing beyond the jamb. I know, as I've demo'd plenty of these type repairs, beyond the door unit itself. They do not hold up season after season and with foot traffic. They just don't... look, I understand the scope and intended purpose here - what's warrented in this instance; the economics, the time and labor ect.... but, if you want repeat business, and that's what this is about - business, then do it right, or don't do it - for the sake of sparing someone the heartburn of another re-do... I generally try and steer the homeowner towards total jamb replacement w/a clear wood (non-finger joint wood) repair, even utilizing those fiberglass bottom jambs & then prime the stuffing out of ALL sides/ends thoroughly & (2) top coats of quality exterior paint. I reconnect the rabbet/joint milled at the bottom of the jamb (made in the field) to the side or edge of the sill for a solid connection w/screws & apply a bead of caulk where the sill meets the shoulder of the rabbet, allowing a 1/8" gap between the top of the sill and the underside of the bottom of the jamb cut, to allow water to flow away. I have yet to have a call back due to a joint failure or water issue that is caused by failing paint/caulking at this reconnection. Lots of words, yes... but that TV commercial & the Midas man wasn't whistling Dixie when he told the customer, " you can pay me now - or pay me later." I'd rather walk away from work, having to forego income - than "paying a customer" to get off of a job, because my "repair" wouldn't remedy their issue. And if you don't quite understand how YOU end up paying a customer to get off a job - continue with the "practical patch work"... one day it'll come to you & outa-yo-back-pocket...
Pressure treated is not what I would have used. Something kiln dried and a harder pine like Douglas Fir. Great job on the instruction. I have replaced many rotten areas of door jams and not one has been a problem. An inexpensive repair can turn dreadful and cost more when you aren't willing to use better materials to begin with. Keep up the great videos!
I did the same except backed the original and new both with shims. Yup, a door jam kit is about $50.00, but then, inside outside trim paint, etc. It all adds up! Labor and Time I have money we'll, I'm out of my pay grade if I gab a beer and couch it off😂😂. You are so right, though. I'll say a porch cover-overhang for doors will save your wood.
Rather than using a level cut as you did, I use a scarf cut sloping down to the outside so it will shed water. Silicone is not paintable so I use elastomeric caulk (Lexel, e.g.) at the bottom.
That makes a lot of sense! I fear that I would find making two slanted cuts that match more tricky than it's worth, but I might be willing to give it a shot on my next repair.
@@victorquesada7530 if the guide block is at the angle you can run the oscillating blade along the block but flat against the downward bevel. You can make the replacement piece, just keeping the same angle on the table saw or mitre saw that you made the guide block with.
So wish I would have seen this sooner. I pretty much did what you did. But I didn’t use the level tool you did to make sure i had a straight line, so I had to mess with the angle in my cuts to get it to fit. Glad that I at least did most of what you recommended.
very nice! subscribed...as a retired painter/handyman, i like to prime both side of repair wood before it is pinned in. in my day i didn't have those oscillating tools--what an improvement over the old days. i probably would have planed a thicker repair piece to avoid the shims, but this is quicker and a good idea. also, i like dynaflex for the caulking and anything else i can use it for!
I had this problem on my door. Couple of thoughts... I consider myself a handyman and trust me, it’s not as easy to do a quality job as this guy makes it look. For one, it’s hard to tell how the door jamb is really made until you cut in to it. You may find that it’s not so easy to replicate the wood that’s there (as I did). TBH, I have mine reassembled but it’s not like it was - it’s pretty evident that it’s been repaired. Which leads to my second comment - there’s really no need to remove that much material - you just want to remove the rotted portion so start with removing 3” or so and work your way up until you’ve removed all the rotted wood. That way if you can’t exactly replicate what was there it’s not so obvious. My project gave me a new respect for a good craftsman LOL. I think within the next 6 months I’m going to have a door company replace my entire front door assembly with something a bit more “fancy” and not made of pine.
Ethan, I always use an old chisel or a sharpened flat trim bar for jobs like you're showing in this video. I find that either of these tools work better than a "demolition" screw driver.
I think a chisel is better than a screwdriver for removing sections of wood, too. No matter what tool you use, you have to be really careful with the wood removal process.
Whenever I replace any vertical wood trim I put a 15° bevel aka weather cut instead of making a straight cut. To do this using the same tool you used just cut a 15°bevel on a scrap piece of wood same width as the piece you're removing and tack it to the piece you're cutting off. Short point on the face, using this as a guide for your saw. It will make the joint disappear use a small amount of caulk in the joint. Also leave an 1/8" gap at the bottom of the threshold to allow caulk to adhere to the piece you're installing. I use a nail puller to put upward pressure on the piece while nailing to get the joint tight. Sorry about the long comment but I'm very detailed when making exterior repairs. Hope you give this method a try.
Xtreme200302003 I don’t mind the long comment, I appreciate you writing in. Question though: is a weather cut necessary for this application? If underside of cut above is sealed, and top of new piece is sealed (something I didn’t do a good job of showing in this vid, but have put in other vids), what do you think the odds are of getting water penetration on a vertical jamb? Especially with surface caulk and paint to follow. I like the 1/8” short trick though! I tend to use my 5-in-1 to scoot under and lift a piece in similar situations. Let me know what you think...
@@TheHonestCarpenter The short answer is , just try it and see for yourself. I think the joint turns out better. Is it absolutely necessary....no. It is just what I was taught to do when installing new exterior trim. You do pay attention to detail and turn out good work, I'd hire ya in a heartbeat.
Xtreme200302003 Thanks buddy! I appreciate the advice and support. I’ll give the block guide a try on my next go round. I’m always up for learning new methods 🙂
Great job! I love this fix. I would probably tear the whole thing out just to make sure nothing else is rotten. I had this same type of situation and tore out the old door and frame to find the subfloor was also rotten.
Additional tip - use the caulking to seal the end grain on the bottom of the piece of wood. Put a small amount on the end grain and rub it in to the wood. Really helps it not rot in the future.
I see so many people not sealing the bottom edge of exterior trim wood in general. Its the most vulnerable area of the trim to rot. I also raise the trim up off the door sill so it's not sitting on it. The slight gap helps and caulk will cover the gap. And now the price of PVC trim has come down so I always try to use that when I can.
Often wondered if a repair like this could be done. Great how to video, and really explained it well. I have a garage side door with both sides doing the same thing. This is better than having to replace the whole door.
Just wanted to say well done. A number of comments (including by me) are helpful additions but I know from experience that this repair just as you did it is very good and will last. Take the comments as hopefully helpful additions but not as criticism or just being negative. I’m a contractor and find your channel very helpful. Subscribed.
I might add, a speed square comes in really handy on this repair. Slide it to the location you want your plunge cut and use it as a guide for your oscillating tool.
Ethan, you saved me five to $800 in fixing a rotten door jam at my house. I was able to get a broken door jam combination from Home Depot that they couldn’t sell for $15. That’s all the materials I spent.Thanks for the great tutorial and your videos. I wish I could buy you a couple of beers!
Funny, I just got new multi tool blades so I can repair my back door jamb. I subscribed earlier today and this just popped up. Good timing, good tips, thanks!
Nice looking repair. You can also buy PVC door frame pieces that are made for this. Kits usually include the entire frame (3 pieces), but I have used in the same way as your repair, i.e., replace just a section at the bottom of each vertical piece. With PVC, you never have to worry with doing it again.
I have three doors that need these repairs. I was planning on pulling the whole door frames/brick molds. Thanks. This type repair will probably last the rest of my life.
the multi tool is a really nice tool to have, it does wonders. It is one of the best tools for a great job, to remove a rotten door jam thanks for showing us a great vidio.
I did this same repair two days ago. I hadn't looked at any videos and today found this one. I did the same thing he did with a couple of differences. I cut the old wood out with my oscillating tool. I used a chisel instead of a screwdriver (a screwdriver, really?). I didn't glue the board in place since in a number of years that new piece may rot again and need to be taken out. I do like the idea of using the oscillating tool to create a space away from the concrete. I did think about that but haven't done it. I'll do it tomorrow. Over all really good video.
I did a whole video on the big screwdriver Anthony. I’ll take 3” extra leverage any day. Goes through pine easier than a chisel because the tip is so narrow. One of the first things ever taught to me on a construction site.
Here’s a tip I use… When using wood brick mould/jamb make sure your use a primer or paint on the bottom 3 inches BEFORE you install, to help seal it and “help” with future water repelling to assist with rot.
Great video, still contains valuable information. I was getting ready to replace my kitchen storm door when I removed my old one and noticed the rotten wood. Perfection video to saved me some valuable time and expense. Added a minor change, and 😉used Foam Insulation in the cavity, this should eliminate any future moisture issues. Used your last trick chalking the base of both sides of the jamb. Tomorrow just install my new storm door. Thanks again.
I need to make this same repair. Although I'm also replacing the entire brick moulding with PVC, as that's rotting at the base as well. The one issue I had was with the shims. Rather than just use small pieces, would it have been much more effort to make shims that go the width of the board? Seems like it would give the replacement piece a bit more stability and a more solid fit.
I did this same work on a customers garage access door here in Seattle about 4 months ago and yes, oscillating multitool here is the best thing to use. On top of replacing the piece I cut out, I also used wood hardener to treat the softened wood behind it. Then put in wood filler on top of that. then I used waterproof adhesive to put replacement piece in place, primed and painted it with marine paint and finally caulked the joints with marine caulk.
This is a great video for the home carpenter to repair their rotted door jam from weather damage. This seems to be a common problem for the Northern states and the Southeastern states where rain/snow did most of the damages. I'd agree, the exterior door jam should be much more resilient to weather for these locations, the manufacturers could just either seal the bottom of the door jam or splice in 6-12" of treat lumber at the bottom edge, the problem would not exist. Having said that, I'd do this repair a little differently as I did at my house. Since the damages to the door jam is really about less than 6" from the bottom, I'd only replace the bottom 6" not 16" to maintain the structural integrity of the door jam (note that the removed upper door jam is still solid wood). Cutting the door jam way above the bottom hinge weaken the entire door jam to carry the door weight. I'd not use the screwdriver to chisel the old damage part out either, I'd cut another straight line from the top down to the bottom while keeping the weather trip pocket and fry out the entire piece. Last but not least, I'd not glue the new door jam wood piece into the frame stud either, because you want to be able to replace the entire door at some point in time in the future, gluing the shim and the repair piece makes it more difficult to remove them later. Once you nail in the new piece and caulk it up, it is solid and not going anywhere and the old door jam is much more structural stable.
He made another video that addresses this point exactly! That's something that I did on the one repair I have made, but the windows will be another job worth completing with that in mind.
Great video and great workmanship. Alternative is available though... there is a product by Abatron called LiquidWood and WoodEpox that I just used that worked well. You dig out the dry rotted wood and vacuum what’s left. Then you mix the liquidwood and brush on several times until absorbed. You then use WoodEpox and mold that into place while the liquidwood is still wet. Then you sand a bit until it matches surrounding piece and you are done. Once cured the product can be sanded, painted, or stained. Many historic restorations are done with this stuff. Either method is good. I am not a fan of lazy manufacturers that create the problem in the first place by using pine or melamine which deteriorates rapidly when water comes into the picture. Have a great week!
@Mountain Creek Good tip! I haven't used Liquid Wood yet specifically, but I've tried a couple other comparable products and had some success. For small patch, I think it can be a good route for DIYers who might not have as much saw experience. Thanks for writing in!
That can be like a dentist who didn't drill out all tooth rot and then put a filling in. You cannot always see ALL the rot, and if you miss ANY, even a speck, it keeps spreading and rotting. I see painters doing that type of repair all the time on jambs and windows, usually fails. Also the expansion and contraction will be different on both materials, causing a crack, then water, then rot/failure. Don't get me started on fillers for rot.
Thanks for the info. Recently bought a house that has some rot by the back door I'm looking to fix soon. Haven't done this kind of work before so it's helpful to see how it's done.
All these “experts” and “perfectionists” should have their own YT channel. I’d bet if you visited their homes, they wouldn’t be so perfect. Thank you for the video.
Instead of caulking for replacement pieces I'll take real fine sawdust & mix with wood glue to fill in joined gap. When it dries sand smooth & paint. Sometimes it makes replacement joint almost impossible to detect. Great video!!
For those who may have a hard time cutting a straight line. You can take a scrap piece of wood with a straight edge and screw it below your line. This will give you something to rest your tool on. It won’t just help with a level line but keep your pitch too. With this repair he’s already ripping with a table saw. No harm in ripping down a scrap piece of 2x6 etc and avoid the shims. He’s doing a cheap repair for those who can’t afford a whole door. Use what materials you have. Cut your height and angle and width as he showed. Insert the 2x6, scribe a line for your depth and run through a table saw.
Semper Fi , I agree. Some above complained about the method. Replace the whole board, pull the door etc. no need for that unless the rot made it into the framing. People don’t always know what’s involved in replacing a whole door and the expense.
I have exactly this problem on a front porch door. I was wondering if this was possible. Apparently, it is! Thank you for the help. Now I can get this nuisance fixed and in short order, too.
Epoxy injection and consolidation are much easier and will not rot again (assuming you took care of original water source--otherwise the wood will rot away from the epoxy next time)
I design doors and windows for a living and the repair you did will work for a while. The real problem is that unless you buy a fiberglass or other composite door with a composite threshold the jamb stock will wick water again. Under the actual threshold is probably less than a number 2 pine grade pine board. What you kept calling the jamb is actually the "stop" the rest that you dug out is the actual jamb. When installing a new door even with a composite jamb, always use a rubber membrane on the floor that is sticky on the down side to prevent water wicking. It's good to run that up the rough opening about 6 inches and run it past the door and around the corner like flashing. The other beating doors take is no storm door. Every door should be covered by a storm door. The other issue that door jamb had was likely water splashing on it. If your door faces south or west get a venting storm door, otherwise the door can reach 400 degrees. I've seen the plastic surrounds that hold glass in them melt. Home Depot sells the jamb stock with the stop attached so you can cut all the way through to the rough opening and not have to pick out the jamb in pieces. Not trying to dog your work, but make your life easier in the future.
Oscillating tools are the greatest tool ever made. From my experience, the Dewalt XR are the best and you can find them (with batteries, charger, and bag) for $99 all over the place. (But it must be the XR... the other version from Dewalt suuuuuck. And tge Dewalt XR oscillating tool is also the best tool in Dewalt's line. So for $200 you can get the tool, and the small piece wood to fix door.
Great job. I would like to recommend that you do something else in addition to adding the cut at the bottom to cause it to clear and stay dry off the concrete at the ground level. I would also prime both the bottom edge as well as the entire backside so that it is further protected and not likely to soak up water (like raw wood would). Thanks and keep em coming!!
I don’t like encapsulating wood with barrier. If just a pinhole allows water inside it will rot out more quickly because oxygen is low and no way to dry. Leave inside surface alone and provide downward angled weep holes. Not as aesthetically pleasing but who cares
Just use PVC or composite instead of more wood that will eventually fail again. Pressure treated wood is not rot proof and since he didn’t seal the end that’s on the sill moisture will eventually get up in there again. I did mine with PVC or Aztec and after paint you can’t tell the difference!
Don't use painters caulk to seal water out. If it says easy water cleanup it's not for outdoors where I come from. Also, a little pre priming or azek/PVC boards adds life. We always use composite jambs or doors with jamb savers here on the Oregon coast anymore, wood ones last about 2 years
This is why I have a Larson heavy duty storm door. With the lock on the storm door it is additional protection for you as you answer your door. If someone wanting to rush in they have to deal with heavy duty storm door while you close your main door and lock it.
This is true! A number of good suggestions have been made here (including several I made) but I can guarantee that this repair, exactly as he’s done it, will last a very long time. I’ve done it similarly and seen it last for years. The door unit will likely be replaced before anything goes wrong with this repair imho.
Had a similar problem and used a similar method. A lot of rot in behind that I couldn’t totally correct. Used a lot of wood hardened and Great Stuff. So far so good.
After more than 45 years as a craftsman in the restoration field, I recommend Abatron epoxy injection and epoxy consolidant for this and forget the dutchman scab.
Awesome! Thank you! It's basically advanced LEGOs and understanding materials and building science. Knowing how to use a multi-tool and table saw helps!
This seems to be more geared toward professionals to get the job done faster or for major damage worse than what was shown. An average person doing this at their home I would think would be to use a paint able epoxy after cleaning out the rotted ends using a dremel or die grinder. This Old House has a good tutorial on the other method, but this always seems to be the most popular method found online.
English Vietnamese With Mimi is you are Vietnamese you should be more respectful of family. Please rethink before saying hurtful things especially during this time.
@@rbrtck He showed in the video he shoots silicone underneath to prevent moisture from getting there. He showed it on the original piece and not the new one. You can't believe he would seal the bottom on the old wood and not do the same to the new piece he just replaced.
Expansion and contraction is different in PVC compared to timber which would lead to caulk and paint cracking along the joints where it meets the timber....which will allow rain water to enter and rot the remaining timber.
So I'm facing this same repair, but my doorway is just 20' off a very busy street corner. So I'm afraid of tearing apart the doorway and screwing up in front of dozens of people. But I found this very instructive video, it's so understandable! Thanks! I'll just blame you if I screw up. :o)
They also sell pre hung units with a jamb saver this comes with a composite material finger joined to the bottom of each leg. That’s all I order for clients or full composite
@gregwolters2 That’s a good point. A lot more milling companies are starting to add composite bottoms, so you can even get single side jambs with the 5 degree cut in place if you look around 🙂
My clients get jamb savers, I don’t give them an option, it’s something like $20 more. I used to do those jamb repairs and discovered that replacing the entire jamb side is faster and the finished product looks better. My local Millwork shop sells the jamb legs milled or unmilled for the hinges.
Great info! I did this same repair years ago, but in my case, the brick mold had rotted too. I actually bought another door jam (the whole thing) because it wasn't that much, and I cut about a foot out of the bottom section that I needed. I cut the existing jam with one of those circular rotozip tools, but I think using the oscillator tool would be easier.
Thanks Jay Man! I'm using pvc a lot these days for this repair, and I do the same thing you did--just buy a pvc door jamb and use that for components :)
If it’s a 4 9/16” jamb, Lowe’s sells treated prefabricated jamb legs that you can install (just cut to size) that has the weatherstripping groove. Just make sure to cut below the bottom hinge so you don’t have to mortise it out.
I've been watching several videos on entry door repairs and basically the best answer really is build a porch with a roof for your front entry! Keep the water out and away from your door entirely!
Daniel Smith yeah that was my thought. 45 with a circular saw to make a straight and quick cut then switch to the oscillating multitool to finish cutting all the way through.
needed to see this thank you. though im scared mine might have a little more damage then in your video. though as soon as i get mine fixed im getting me a storm door to further protect it.
Iv done this repair many times and not always because of rot actually. My leading reason of this repair is actually storm door damage. I do it slightly different with the same goal, just different approach. I continue the "control cut" as you call it right down the interior stop. Once new jamb fits flush with the existing jamb, I run a pencil line along the back of my patch " representing the weather stripping" and run a rip. It will take two passes to open the kerf correctly. Most of the time it is approximately 5/32 or a blade and a half. Too tight and the stripping the never fit into loose and it will not stay in place. Then to finish everything off I've always used epoxy wood filler so I can sand Prime and paint within an hour
My saw blades hate PVC. I don’t like it either. There is a soda ash composite that can be submerged if you’re after something esoteric with limited availability and application...
@@TheHonestCarpenter cost of material shouldn't contribute to choice it's charged to customer anyway. ALWAYS use best materials for ALL work & not cutting corners sacrificing durability of repair
looks good, you did a good job ...I have a couple of tips.I only cut out a few inches above the rot don't see a need to bring it up higher. When you bring it up higher your bringing it up closer to eye level where the joint can be seen. Also about that joint I would use wood filler or bondo not calk . The calk will shrink in and that joint will be visible. With wood filler or bondo you can make it disappear...
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Thank you for taking the time to put this video together. I had been putting off this job on a couple doors for too long and tackled them today. They look better than new. Before reading the comments, I also made a few modifications that have already been mentioned (45 degree horizontal cut, plunge vertical cut so the old/bad piece comes right out). But watching the video made the job go MUCH faster and problem-free. I realize that the video is 2 years old, but wanted you to know that it is still helping people! Thanks again.
45 degrees going upwards or downwards? And what is plunge vertical cut, please? Thank you!
After doing this job three times in 10 years on the same door, I finally ripped all that trim out and replaced it with vinyl. No more painting, no more rotting. Did the same thing for my garage surrounds, for the same reason, with the same result. Looks great, no more rot!
You should've learned your lesson the second time and used treated wood lol
I was just wondering the the same thing. Why not replace with PVC. It cannot rot. Even pressure treated is more resistant to rot and water damage, but it’s still wood. The only downside I can see with using PVC is it’s not as durable as wood, it dents easily a door trim or window sill that shouldn’t be an issue, but a garage frame? In the winter months we get snow, and shoveling out around the doors could be an issue. How well has yours held up to life?
@@Steelheart624 I did...and the treated wood rotted as well, which is why I went with PVC the third time.
@@jamesmchugo9422 My door frame has been in for five years, my garage trim has been in for four. I did have to replace one piece of garage trim after I accidentally hit it with the auger on my snow blower. Other than that, it has been remarkable resilient.
Ah nvm then... Unusual for treated wood to rot but it is still wood I guess
Thanks for your video. I repaired a rotte door jam on our outbuilding using these instructions. Worked like a charm and looks professional! My husband was impressed. He said "now I don't have to hire someone." Hell, no, we can do it! Thanks to you!!!!
Sorry....meant rotteD and jamB. Talking to a computer to type is nonsense. Reminds me of why I do not do it often.
@@KayKay0813 you
@@KayKay0813 you can do the
I called three separate carpenters for estimates on repairing my door jamb (walk in cellar). Both sides were rotted on the outside in the jamb to a height of 24". They all said the entire unit must be replaced (including a door) and quoted me $1200.00-$1450.00. I wasn't born yesterday, I could tell they were thieves. I bought a cheap oscillating multitool for $39.00 at Harbor Freight tools. I took out the weather exposed side cutting it by the door stop. I purchased PVC trim at HD. I'm old so I took my time. Took me about 6 hours of fussing. Total cost was $175.00. I was told it looked better than what a carpenter could do. It will last forever being made of PVC Veranda. So it matched, I did all three sides and used top quality stainless screws. I know I went a bit overboard on framing the door. But it looks so good. I kept the heavy steel door and there was not one bit of rust on it. I originally installed the unit 37 years ago.
Will ya come fix mine? I’ll be waiting by the mailbox for ya!
@@e.conboy4286 I'll gladly do the fix for you. I'll give you a break on the price. Give me $1,000 plus airfare.
Any pictures?
I live in Douglasville Georgia and had the same idea. PVC will not rot.. But did you create a ledge with the hinged part of the casing? I can't ever find the right replacement because 34 yrs ago it must have been different. Its sad they didn't think ahead.
@@electronic476 no
I'm new to doing my own home wood repairs, and for the last 2 months I have seen over fifty videos on door repairs and on this one video I learned a whole lot more. I feel like your in my head knowing all the question I have about this kind of work and you have all the answers, thanks and I have subscribed.
Thank you Hi-Yo! I always try to over explain a little bit because I know how many questions my clients usually have for me. I’m glad this was helpful. Thanks for subscribing!
To make it easier to cut a straight line, tack a guide strip to the lower part of the board. Let the multi-use tool blade rest on the guide strip while cutting. Even someone like me who's hands shake quite a bit can make a straight cut this way.
That's helpful as well! I was trying to hang cabinets the other day, and found the tip of putting a strip of straight 2x4 level as a shelf to make the cabinets easier to hold and easier to get level.
In addition it can be good to have the guide block be beveled so that it’s at say a 20:degree angle (ripped on a table saw or cut on a mitre saw). When you run the saw along tip it to the angled piece so the remaining jamb is angled down and the piece you put in is at the same angle also cut at the same angle on your table saw or mitre saw. That way it is flashed downward allowing water to be less likely ever to infiltrate the joint. Not a huge big deal but added protection.
Absolutely. A speed square works too.
@@alexmacdonald1998 yeah that's what I use
Ditto. You can even put an angle to it and will match up rather decent.
You did a pretty good job on this jamb repair....
I've seen jambs rot like this for 4 decades now...and you only had two choices to repair it, either tear out the whole frame, or repair it like you did....
For the past 15 years or so, the Jamb materials have gotten better, and this type of repair should no longer be a problem....If the proper frame is used in the correct location....
I am a Door Builder by trade,, Building both standard and custom Exterior entry units....
And Currently there are 3 types of standard Jamb materials that we use...
Primed fingerjoint pine jambs, Frame saver pine jambs, and Solid composite jambs....
The primed pine jambs should Ideally be installed in locations not exposed to direct weather, like a Garage, a Porch, or location that has a large over hang......
Frame saver jambs are our main sellers, because they pretty much Eliminate the type of rot that you just fixed... these are pine jambs, but the lower 4 inches are made of a Composite material to eliminate water penetration at the Jamb/sill joint...
The all Composite frames are the best,, due to the fact of never having to worry about any rot,, but they are pretty pricey.....SOooo...
As the old saying goes.... "You get what you pay for"....
@Ol' Moe Thanks for writing in! Awesome to hear you're a door builder. My grandfather built custom doors and windows, and he was a top outboard motor mechanic as well. I've definitely seen the frame saver jambs you mention--they just haven't caught on in my area yet! Lately I've been doing this same repair with PVC, as the price has dropped so drastically in this last year or two. But pine, especially finger joint, is so prone to failure in these areas. I've never really been a fan of fingerjoint anywhere outside--high humidity levels alone seem to make the joints express. Inside the home the stuff seems far more stable. Where do you build doors? Thanks again for writing in!
@@TheHonestCarpenter I live and work near the coast of Myrtle Beach South Carolina...Here the building industry is growing steadily every year, with more and more people moving into the area....
I also, have never been a fan of Finger Joint material,, when used for any frame work, doors or windows...Mainly due to each glue joint being a place for trouble to start....
As far as the Frame Saver jambs,,, The cost only adds a few more dollars to the price of the unit...But will save you from sill rot later on down the road....
Thanks for replying back...Keep up the good work....
@Ol' Moe Thanks buddy! I've spent a lot of time down in Myrtle over the years. Tons of great memories :)
Actually, there is a third choice that I have used many times on cheap rental properties in particular. Cut out the rotted areas with a chisel. Then fill in the area with concrete mortar. Before I put in the concrete mortar I usually paint all of the exposed areas with a termite killer. This is a fast and easy repair requiring very few tools.
Great work !! From a retired high end custom home builder !!! I have seen these situations a million times !!!
Watched this video a long time ago but remembered it. I just came back to say thank you and tell you this video helped me fix my own issue here on my house. Thank you!!!!
Pro handyman here. I used to repair the same way. Will rot again. Clean up, remove rot, fill with foam, glue/nail pvc plank in front as you would a baseboard, silicone/call up to you...done in no time and will never rot again.
Can you see a transition from the wood to the PVC plank once it's all painted overtime?
Used your video to do this today. Was able to find a three foot section of jamb at Home Depot. So didn't have to cut my own groove. I sealed the ends as you suggested which is a good tip even for treated wood. Thanks for putting this together and supporting DIYers.
do you have a link by chance?
Wow. I just came across you because I had other questions to ask and I'm watching your videos and all of a sudden there was my problem video. Thank you so much you are a saint. I'm a 55 year old female who had wood rot on these door jambs and first I thought it was termites it was termites but I guess it's not mine is pretty deep. But I'm going to do everything that you said again I'm a 55 year old female and I'm going to dig in. Thank you so much for all of your kindness and support and help for people who need you
And by the way, thank you SOOOOOO very much for recommending the PVC boards. Replacing most of my trim, and all of the sections that are sitting on the brick with it. Well worth the money.
Damn. I would consider myself to know quite a bit about home repair and remodeling. But I always learn something (usually several things) from every one of your videos. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Thank you, Clark! I learned a lot about parenting from your National Lampoon movies 😁
I was taught by a professional carpenter to cut in a step pattern rather than cutting straight across. It would lock in better and be more supportive. Thanks for sharing!
75 yr old woman doing this all by myself. And yes i have my own multi oscillating toolq
Because all men should just automatically know how to do this. You should be honored, recognized, and rewarded for your courage, bravery, and ambition. You precious, perfect, honorable, courageous independent woman. We should have a parade in your honor.
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Thanks for posting this great video. My parent's house needs this kind of repair, now I know what I need to do and how to do it. The only thing that I would do in your case is not use the shims but use long strips of would, the thickness needed and put them behind on each side of the new board in order to have an even backing. This video was very informative. Thanks again.
Cuervo Vallejo Thanks for watching! That’s a good call. You’ll get pretty much fail proof support that way 👍
Good vid!
Quick tip for you.
The surgical line you speak of...if you want it to disapear, very slightly bevel the existing edge and new edge of the cut line with sand paper. Install your piece, and once adhesive sets up, use some automotive body filler over that area. Sand it flush once dry, and your ready for paint!
You did a nice job, so might aswell take one more step to making it look invisible to the normal eye. The caulking shrinks back and you'll always see that cut line.
A home repair guy suggested the Bondo Fast Dry Filler. I plan to use that. Thanks.
That was helpful to see how ours will be done. I thought I could handle it myself but after seeing all these details, there is no way I have the proper tools and abilities to do such a previously thought easy repair. You said in the video you've NEVER seen the inner door jamb with the rotten place, I have an inner door jamb on the underside of the hinge that has rotted out and so, I'm thinking either get a new door and have them just replace the entire door and thus the whole thing is repaired and replaced vs paying the carpenter the $800+ he wanted to do the lower jamb outside and the inner jamb below the hinge. Cheaper to get the door and install vs getting it repaired. So much for DIY.
Good idea, just make sure who you hire is qualified and insured, so worth having a good contractor do and wonderful installation, if they are really good they don't even mind you watching.
Get the door with the fake wood on the outside. A little more expensive , but worth it. Comes in white so you don't have to paint jambs, but you can paint if you want a different color.
Bill Rehm warranty void if not painted ALL 6 sides. Gotta read the fine print
Dude, for $800 he should replace the whole hung door and apologize for pulling your leg. That’s an astronomically overinflated estimated. Call another carp, please.
Nicely done! When purchasing a new door upgrade your jamb (Door frame) to composite bottom or complete composite jamb. Generally the first place water damage is found on an exterior door is at the bottom of the jamb as this video shows. A composite bottom jamb has the bottom 6-8 inches of the jamb and brickmould made from a composite material which won't rot. Or go with a complete composite jamb. Its a great investment for a little amount. Hmmm, I sound like a door salesman or something...LOL
I watched the video w/interest as I've spent 30+ years in the field as a residential finish carpenter/cabinet maker. I'd be the first to admit, none of us "old guys" possess all the answers or angles, however I feel there are a few outstanding issues yet addressed here that are a disservice to a homeowner(s) & ourselves, as craftsman that need consideration.
Generally speaking, door & window manufacturers have, for the last 30-40+ years, supplied the trades w/finger jointed jambs for interior and exterior jamb applications. Clear wood jambs can be specified at the time of ordering, however, at a significant up charge, which typically was the exception and not the rule in application.
In this particular instance, I'm not certain that yellow pine, (chiefly the wood used in pressure treated wood products), but also becoming more and more prevelant w/ interior millwork, that this is the material of choice for a exterior jamb repair - even "dried". y.p. moves (expands/contracts) at a different rate than the spruce/pine/fir finger joint jamb material which is commonly used today. Additionally, y.p. grows differently, faster, has a different density than white pine/spruce, is not as stable (much more brittle) and doesn't perform/hold up as well when introduced or exposed to moisture long term. To the point, look closely at any exterior y.p. decking material - vertical or horizontal in application. Whether it's treated for moisture and exposure - after the intial 6-8, or even 10 month drying time, to receive and absorb an applied sealant - it still checks, along the length of each board. That's why Trex decking & similiar products have surged as a go-to decking material.
My experience early on is that in repair work, y.p., especially p.t., checks (cracks) similiarly along the length of the board over time in exterior applications. Whether you're using "dry treated" boards before priming/painting or not - y.p. inherently checks, in time, no matter how you treat it after installation ...take it to the bank...it just does. There's a reason you don't typically find finger jointed y.p. door jambs - treated or untreated wood, used on EXTERIOR applications, w/entry doors.
Additionally, 2" finish nails, or even 3" nails for that matter will not keep a y.p. board flat - the board WILL MOVE, curl, with the grain and, eventually, resists being fixed/nailed, by checking (cracking) along grain lines. It must & will relieve inherent stresses within the board, it's the nature of y.p. This allows moisture in, which can lead to paint failure & eventually, decay. I've replaced more than a few of these y.p. "patch boards" through the years on doors AND windows - they will move and decay - even p.t. boards - more so than the regular pine f.j. board... they just do.
Lastly, the repair does look cosmetically pleasing initially, but the sill is left unsecured to the bottom of the jamb & it will move out of place over time - foot traffic, constant opening/closing of the door, house movement - and the structure does move/settle over time, even minimally; caulking will not remedy the joint long term, causing potentially more damage beneath the sill and framing beyond the jamb. I know, as I've demo'd plenty of these type repairs, beyond the door unit itself. They do not hold up season after season and with foot traffic. They just don't... look, I understand the scope and intended purpose here - what's warrented in this instance; the economics, the time and labor ect.... but, if you want repeat business, and that's what this is about - business, then do it right, or don't do it - for the sake of sparing someone the heartburn of another re-do...
I generally try and steer the homeowner towards total jamb replacement w/a clear wood (non-finger joint wood) repair, even utilizing those fiberglass bottom jambs & then prime the stuffing out of ALL sides/ends thoroughly & (2) top coats of quality exterior paint. I reconnect the rabbet/joint milled at the bottom of the jamb (made in the field) to the side or edge of the sill for a solid connection w/screws & apply a bead of caulk where the sill meets the shoulder of the rabbet, allowing a 1/8" gap between the top of the sill and the underside of the bottom of the jamb cut, to allow water to flow away. I have yet to have a call back due to a joint failure or water issue that is caused by failing paint/caulking at this reconnection.
Lots of words, yes... but that TV commercial & the Midas man wasn't whistling Dixie when he told the customer, " you can pay me now - or pay me later." I'd rather walk away from work, having to forego income - than "paying a customer" to get off of a job, because my "repair" wouldn't remedy their issue. And if you don't quite understand how YOU end up paying a customer to get off a job - continue with the "practical patch work"... one day it'll come to you & outa-yo-back-pocket...
David I like your idea better, do it right the first time. My back door looked like that too and I knew it needed to be replaced.
Thanks Dean 🙂
Pressure treated is not what I would have used. Something kiln dried and a harder pine like Douglas Fir. Great job on the instruction. I have replaced many rotten areas of door jams and not one has been a problem. An inexpensive repair can turn dreadful and cost more when you aren't willing to use better materials to begin with.
Keep up the great videos!
I did the same except backed the original and new both with shims. Yup, a door jam kit is about $50.00, but then, inside outside trim paint, etc. It all adds up! Labor and Time I have money we'll, I'm out of my pay grade if I gab a beer and couch it off😂😂. You are so right, though. I'll say a porch cover-overhang for doors will save your wood.
Rather than using a level cut as you did, I use a scarf cut sloping down to the outside so it will shed water. Silicone is not paintable so I use elastomeric caulk (Lexel, e.g.) at the bottom.
I prefer polyurethane.
That makes a lot of sense! I fear that I would find making two slanted cuts that match more tricky than it's worth, but I might be willing to give it a shot on my next repair.
@@victorquesada7530 if the guide block is at the angle you can run the oscillating blade along the block but flat against the downward bevel. You can make the replacement piece, just keeping the same angle on the table saw or mitre saw that you made the guide block with.
I was going to say the same thing!
@@victoryak86 Smart!
So wish I would have seen this sooner. I pretty much did what you did. But I didn’t use the level tool you did to make sure i had a straight line, so I had to mess with the angle in my cuts to get it to fit. Glad that I at least did most of what you recommended.
very nice! subscribed...as a retired painter/handyman, i like to prime both side of repair wood before it is pinned in. in my day i didn't have those oscillating tools--what an improvement over the old days. i probably would have planed a thicker repair piece to avoid the shims, but this is quicker and a good idea. also, i like dynaflex for the caulking and anything else i can use it for!
I had this problem on my door. Couple of thoughts... I consider myself a handyman and trust me, it’s not as easy to do a quality job as this guy makes it look. For one, it’s hard to tell how the door jamb is really made until you cut in to it. You may find that it’s not so easy to replicate the wood that’s there (as I did). TBH, I have mine reassembled but it’s not like it was - it’s pretty evident that it’s been repaired. Which leads to my second comment - there’s really no need to remove that much material - you just want to remove the rotted portion so start with removing 3” or so and work your way up until you’ve removed all the rotted wood. That way if you can’t exactly replicate what was there it’s not so obvious. My project gave me a new respect for a good craftsman LOL. I think within the next 6 months I’m going to have a door company replace my entire front door assembly with something a bit more “fancy” and not made of pine.
Ethan, I always use an old chisel or a sharpened flat trim bar for jobs like you're showing in this video. I find that either of these tools work better than a "demolition" screw driver.
I think a chisel is better than a screwdriver for removing sections of wood, too. No matter what tool you use, you have to be really careful with the wood removal process.
Whenever I replace any vertical wood trim I put a 15° bevel aka weather cut instead of making a straight cut. To do this using the same tool you used just cut a 15°bevel on a scrap piece of wood same width as the piece you're removing and tack it to the piece you're cutting off. Short point on the face, using this as a guide for your saw. It will make the joint disappear use a small amount of caulk in the joint. Also leave an 1/8" gap at the bottom of the threshold to allow caulk to adhere to the piece you're installing. I use a nail puller to put upward pressure on the piece while nailing to get the joint tight. Sorry about the long comment but I'm very detailed when making exterior repairs. Hope you give this method a try.
Xtreme200302003 I don’t mind the long comment, I appreciate you writing in. Question though: is a weather cut necessary for this application? If underside of cut above is sealed, and top of new piece is sealed (something I didn’t do a good job of showing in this vid, but have put in other vids), what do you think the odds are of getting water penetration on a vertical jamb? Especially with surface caulk and paint to follow. I like the 1/8” short trick though! I tend to use my 5-in-1 to scoot under and lift a piece in similar situations. Let me know what you think...
@@TheHonestCarpenter The short answer is , just try it and see for yourself. I think the joint turns out better. Is it absolutely necessary....no. It is just what I was taught to do when installing new exterior trim. You do pay attention to detail and turn out good work, I'd hire ya in a heartbeat.
Xtreme200302003 Thanks buddy! I appreciate the advice and support. I’ll give the block guide a try on my next go round. I’m always up for learning new methods 🙂
Awesome advice extreme person
@@Xtreme200302003 I can appreciate the value of that angle & the integrity of the joint on the surface
Great job! I love this fix. I would probably tear the whole thing out just to make sure nothing else is rotten. I had this same type of situation and tore out the old door and frame to find the subfloor was also rotten.
Thank you super!
Additional tip - use the caulking to seal the end grain on the bottom of the piece of wood. Put a small amount on the end grain and rub it in to the wood. Really helps it not rot in the future.
I see so many people not sealing the bottom edge of exterior trim wood in general. Its the most vulnerable area of the trim to rot. I also raise the trim up off the door sill so it's not sitting on it. The slight gap helps and caulk will cover the gap. And now the price of PVC trim has come down so I always try to use that when I can.
Often wondered if a repair like this could be done. Great how to video, and really explained it well. I have a garage side door with both sides doing the same thing. This is better than having to replace the whole door.
Thanks Trebor! This repair definitely works great for garage doors, which tend to have larger but even simpler jambs :)
Just wanted to say well done. A number of comments (including by me) are helpful additions but I know from experience that this repair just as you did it is very good and will last. Take the comments as hopefully helpful additions but not as criticism or just being negative. I’m a contractor and find your channel very helpful. Subscribed.
I might add, a speed square comes in really handy on this repair. Slide it to the location you want your plunge cut and use it as a guide for your oscillating tool.
Yes, I used a clamp to hold it in place got a straight cut going with the multitool and then did more of a plunge than back and forth.
Ethan, you saved me five to $800 in fixing a rotten door jam at my house. I was able to get a broken door jam combination from Home Depot that they couldn’t sell for $15. That’s all the materials I spent.Thanks for the great tutorial and your videos. I wish I could buy you a couple of beers!
you think that the job you saw was a five to $800 job?
@@rfd66 yep I do, and can’t thank you enough for your idea and videos!
Very nice and informative. I’ll take a pound of confidence before I start sawing into my door jambs.
A six-pack is the minimum. By sever or eight beers you'll be able to rebuild your entire house in 20 minutes.
Funny, I just got new multi tool blades so I can repair my back door jamb. I subscribed earlier today and this just popped up. Good timing, good tips, thanks!
Nice looking repair. You can also buy PVC door frame pieces that are made for this. Kits usually include the entire frame (3 pieces), but I have used in the same way as your repair, i.e., replace just a section at the bottom of each vertical piece. With PVC, you never have to worry with doing it again.
Planning to do this very thing in coming weekends on my rotten jambs & brick mould.
I have three doors that need these repairs. I was planning on pulling the whole door frames/brick molds. Thanks. This type repair will probably last the rest of my life.
the multi tool is a really nice tool to have, it does wonders. It is one of the best tools for a great job, to remove a rotten door jam thanks for showing us a great vidio.
Thanks Mark! Totally agree, I use the multi-tool on nearly every job. A lot of these repairs I wouldn’t even attempt if I didn’t have one!
@@TheHonestCarpenter Time to get a cordless, love my M18 Milwaukee.
I did this same repair two days ago. I hadn't looked at any videos and today found this one. I did the same thing he did with a couple of differences. I cut the old wood out with my oscillating tool. I used a chisel instead of a screwdriver (a screwdriver, really?). I didn't glue the board in place since in a number of years that new piece may rot again and need to be taken out. I do like the idea of using the oscillating tool to create a space away from the concrete. I did think about that but haven't done it. I'll do it tomorrow. Over all really good video.
I did a whole video on the big screwdriver Anthony. I’ll take 3” extra leverage any day. Goes through pine easier than a chisel because the tip is so narrow. One of the first things ever taught to me on a construction site.
@@TheHonestCarpenter I'll have to check out that video. Thanks.
Here’s a tip I use… When using wood brick mould/jamb make sure your use a primer or paint on the bottom 3 inches BEFORE you install, to help seal it and “help” with future water repelling to assist with rot.
It would make sense to treat these ends with some anti rot product, or even apply wood hardener to stop the wood from absorbing moisture. 🤔
Great video, still contains valuable information. I was getting ready to replace my kitchen storm door when I removed my old one and noticed the rotten wood. Perfection video to saved me some valuable time and expense. Added a minor change, and 😉used Foam Insulation in the cavity, this should eliminate any future moisture issues. Used your last trick chalking the base of both sides of the jamb. Tomorrow just install my new storm door. Thanks again.
I need to make this same repair. Although I'm also replacing the entire brick moulding with PVC, as that's rotting at the base as well. The one issue I had was with the shims. Rather than just use small pieces, would it have been much more effort to make shims that go the width of the board? Seems like it would give the replacement piece a bit more stability and a more solid fit.
Sweet been a carpenter 40 years and I approve. Nice job
I did this same work on a customers garage access door here in Seattle about 4 months ago and yes, oscillating multitool here is the best thing to use. On top of replacing the piece I cut out, I also used wood hardener to treat the softened wood behind it. Then put in wood filler on top of that. then I used waterproof adhesive to put replacement piece in place, primed and painted it with marine paint and finally caulked the joints with marine caulk.
I got a feeling that repair is going to last longer than the house.
This is a great video for the home carpenter to repair their rotted door jam from weather damage. This seems to be a common problem for the Northern states and the Southeastern states where rain/snow did most of the damages. I'd agree, the exterior door jam should be much more resilient to weather for these locations, the manufacturers could just either seal the bottom of the door jam or splice in 6-12" of treat lumber at the bottom edge, the problem would not exist. Having said that, I'd do this repair a little differently as I did at my house. Since the damages to the door jam is really about less than 6" from the bottom, I'd only replace the bottom 6" not 16" to maintain the structural integrity of the door jam (note that the removed upper door jam is still solid wood). Cutting the door jam way above the bottom hinge weaken the entire door jam to carry the door weight. I'd not use the screwdriver to chisel the old damage part out either, I'd cut another straight line from the top down to the bottom while keeping the weather trip pocket and fry out the entire piece. Last but not least, I'd not glue the new door jam wood piece into the frame stud either, because you want to be able to replace the entire door at some point in time in the future, gluing the shim and the repair piece makes it more difficult to remove them later. Once you nail in the new piece and caulk it up, it is solid and not going anywhere and the old door jam is much more structural stable.
They make PVC that size or close to it. I have used it for all my windows and door jams. Never have another problem.
Except for the hidden water damage that wasn't addressed
He made another video that addresses this point exactly! That's something that I did on the one repair I have made, but the windows will be another job worth completing with that in mind.
Excellent detail on how to do an excellent, durable repair. Thanks!
Thank you! 🙏
Great video and great workmanship. Alternative is available though... there is a product by Abatron called LiquidWood and WoodEpox that I just used that worked well. You dig out the dry rotted wood and vacuum what’s left. Then you mix the liquidwood and brush on several times until absorbed. You then use WoodEpox and mold that into place while the liquidwood is still wet. Then you sand a bit until it matches surrounding piece and you are done. Once cured the product can be sanded, painted, or stained. Many historic restorations are done with this stuff.
Either method is good. I am not a fan of lazy manufacturers that create the problem in the first place by using pine or melamine which deteriorates rapidly when water comes into the picture.
Have a great week!
@Mountain Creek Good tip! I haven't used Liquid Wood yet specifically, but I've tried a couple other comparable products and had some success. For small patch, I think it can be a good route for DIYers who might not have as much saw experience. Thanks for writing in!
Video link?
That can be like a dentist who didn't drill out all tooth rot and then put a filling in. You cannot always see ALL the rot, and if you miss ANY, even a speck, it keeps spreading and rotting. I see painters doing that type of repair all the time on jambs and windows, usually fails. Also the expansion and contraction will be different on both materials, causing a crack, then water, then rot/failure. Don't get me started on fillers for rot.
@@edwardschmitt5710 I have read that if you stop the water source, the rot stops. Ours is cleaned up and repaired.
Thanks for the info. Recently bought a house that has some rot by the back door I'm looking to fix soon. Haven't done this kind of work before so it's helpful to see how it's done.
Good luck, Daniel!
All these “experts” and “perfectionists” should have their own YT channel. I’d bet if you visited their homes, they wouldn’t be so perfect. Thank you for the video.
Exactly! I ONLY work when I get paid
Instead of caulking for replacement pieces I'll take real fine sawdust & mix with wood glue to fill in joined gap. When it dries sand smooth & paint. Sometimes it makes replacement joint almost impossible to detect. Great video!!
An oscillating tool should be in everyone's tool kit !
I 100% agree Brian!
Yeah I just bought another one, nice to have two, I have two different kind of blades on them, it makes it easier
This and your undersink video have saved me a few hundred.
Glad to hear, Eric! 😄
For those who may have a hard time cutting a straight line. You can take a scrap piece of wood with a straight edge and screw it below your line. This will give you something to rest your tool on. It won’t just help with a level line but keep your pitch too.
With this repair he’s already ripping with a table saw. No harm in ripping down a scrap piece of 2x6 etc and avoid the shims.
He’s doing a cheap repair for those who can’t afford a whole door. Use what materials you have.
Cut your height and angle and width as he showed. Insert the 2x6, scribe a line for your depth and run through a table saw.
Thank you Vince! That’s very well-put advice 🙂
Semper Fi , I agree. Some above complained about the method. Replace the whole board, pull the door etc.
no need for that unless the rot made it into the framing. People don’t always know what’s involved in replacing a whole door and the expense.
I have exactly this problem on a front porch door. I was wondering if this was possible. Apparently, it is! Thank you for the help. Now I can get this nuisance fixed and in short order, too.
Thank you for this. I have to do both sides to my daughter's back door, and have been dreading it. This helped a lot.
Epoxy injection and consolidation are much easier and will not rot again (assuming you took care of original water source--otherwise the wood will rot away from the epoxy next time)
Very clever consultation business concept. Kudos Ethan and TY. ~Doc
Perfect! I have the exact same issue on one of my outside door jambs. This just confirmed my idea on how to do it. Thank you!
You’re welcome Web Crawler! Good luck with the repair!
I design doors and windows for a living and the repair you did will work for a while. The real problem is that unless you buy a fiberglass or other composite door with a composite threshold the jamb stock will wick water again. Under the actual threshold is probably less than a number 2 pine grade pine board. What you kept calling the jamb is actually the "stop" the rest that you dug out is the actual jamb. When installing a new door even with a composite jamb, always use a rubber membrane on the floor that is sticky on the down side to prevent water wicking. It's good to run that up the rough opening about 6 inches and run it past the door and around the corner like flashing. The other beating doors take is no storm door. Every door should be covered by a storm door. The other issue that door jamb had was likely water splashing on it. If your door faces south or west get a venting storm door, otherwise the door can reach 400 degrees. I've seen the plastic surrounds that hold glass in them melt. Home Depot sells the jamb stock with the stop attached so you can cut all the way through to the rough opening and not have to pick out the jamb in pieces. Not trying to dog your work, but make your life easier in the future.
Doesn't the jamb attach to the threshold?
Oscillating tools are the greatest tool ever made. From my experience, the Dewalt XR are the best and you can find them (with batteries, charger, and bag) for $99 all over the place. (But it must be the XR... the other version from Dewalt suuuuuck. And tge Dewalt XR oscillating tool is also the best tool in Dewalt's line.
So for $200 you can get the tool, and the small piece wood to fix door.
Awesome tip. Been putting this off cuz wasn’t confident in process, till now. Thank you
Great job. I would like to recommend that you do something else in addition to adding the cut at the bottom to cause it to clear and stay dry off the concrete at the ground level. I would also prime both the bottom edge as well as the entire backside so that it is further protected and not likely to soak up water (like raw wood would). Thanks and keep em coming!!
Dave Cates primer isn’t weatherproof. Good idea, but use an exterior paint
Yo the type of wood he ise is main thing its presurrure treated moisture resistance.
I don’t like encapsulating wood with barrier. If just a pinhole allows water inside it will rot out more quickly because oxygen is low and no way to dry. Leave inside surface alone and provide downward angled weep holes. Not as aesthetically pleasing but who cares
Thank you for the video! I just used it to repair my door jam. I appreciate it! Very easy...step by step.
Great to hear, Channel!
Also suggest priming the piece before putting in place.
And, I would not put silicone caulking on anything that will be painted. He did suggest that for the bottom of the good side of the jamb.
Just use PVC or composite instead of more wood that will eventually fail again. Pressure treated wood is not rot proof and since he didn’t seal the end that’s on the sill moisture will eventually get up in there again. I did mine with PVC or Aztec and after paint you can’t tell the difference!
@@pblask6451 AZEK.
smiths penetrating epoxy, 100% water proofing. Paint is partially waterproof and loses waterproofing over time.
seal the end grain even though it is treated...still from my pov a cheesy repair
Don't use painters caulk to seal water out. If it says easy water cleanup it's not for outdoors where I come from. Also, a little pre priming or azek/PVC boards adds life. We always use composite jambs or doors with jamb savers here on the Oregon coast anymore, wood ones last about 2 years
Been putting this off for a year and came across this while in quarantine... Thanks for explaining cause of problem. Very nice!!
Awesome! Super helpful, liked the shim work as well. My husband and I can replace our door frame now!
This is why I have a Larson heavy duty storm door. With the lock on the storm door it is additional protection for you as you answer your door. If someone wanting to rush in they have to deal with heavy duty storm door while you close your main door and lock it.
I can't believe that you wouldn't want to show the finished jamb. I really like the idea, thanks.
Better than new, I’m sure that treated patch will outlast the door, good job
This is true! A number of good suggestions have been made here (including several I made) but I can guarantee that this repair, exactly as he’s done it, will last a very long time. I’ve done it similarly and seen it last for years. The door unit will likely be replaced before anything goes wrong with this repair imho.
Had a similar problem and used a similar method. A lot of rot in behind that I couldn’t totally correct. Used a lot of wood hardened and Great Stuff. So far so good.
After more than 45 years as a craftsman in the restoration field, I recommend Abatron epoxy injection and epoxy consolidant for this and forget the dutchman scab.
Want to thank you for showing this repair is possible. I did it like you showed. I used a scrap pvc board. Will paint when it stops raining.
very good replacement there .
me , i would have prepainted that slab before installing it. then apply more later for cosmetics.
awesome video !!
Thank you Scorp!
Awesome! Thank you! It's basically advanced LEGOs and understanding materials and building science. Knowing how to use a multi-tool and table saw helps!
I’d suggest also painting the end grain of the bottom edge before fixing the replacement jamb. That should reduce any moisture absorption. 👍🏻
This seems to be more geared toward professionals to get the job done faster or for major damage worse than what was shown. An average person doing this at their home I would think would be to use a paint able epoxy after cleaning out the rotted ends using a dremel or die grinder. This Old House has a good tutorial on the other method, but this always seems to be the most popular method found online.
With those thick shim and moisture getting in at the bottom, seems like a great place for mold to grow behind the new wood.
Maybe try thinner shims and or thicker wood
Mold really is not an issue in a little cavity behind an exterior door jamb. It won’t be able to get anywhere else.
Frotus M bullshit
English Vietnamese With Mimi mold is good for you
English Vietnamese With Mimi is you are Vietnamese you should be more respectful of family. Please rethink before saying hurtful things especially during this time.
I just fixed one of these with bonds and putty, comes out great.
You should have primed the end grain at the bottom to stop it sucking up moisture!
He said it is treated deck lumber, albeit I suppose he should seal the end grain anyway.
@@rbrtck He showed in the video he shoots silicone underneath to prevent moisture from getting there. He showed it on the original piece and not the new one. You can't believe he would seal the bottom on the old wood and not do the same to the new piece he just replaced.
Great point!
Nice job, I have jams on 20 yr. old house rotting a way and wow what a job to fix. I appreciate the help and the tips.
Glenna Gremanis You’re welcome! Thank you for watching 🙂
So why would you not choose a pvc type piece for replacement instead of pressure treated? Thanks!
Possibly cost and the huge mess it makes - Properly prepped wood will last many decades.
Expansion and contraction is different in PVC compared to timber which would lead to caulk and paint cracking along the joints where it meets the timber....which will allow rain water to enter and rot the remaining timber.
I'm not gonna lie. That repair should be good to go for a very long time. Nice work 👍
Thanks for the instructions. I was about to replace the whole jamb but this will be easier. That oscillating saw is what I need.
You’re welcome Karl! Good luck with the job!
So I'm facing this same repair, but my doorway is just 20' off a very busy street corner. So I'm afraid of tearing apart the doorway and screwing up in front of dozens of people. But I found this very instructive video, it's so understandable! Thanks! I'll just blame you if I screw up. :o)
They also sell pre hung units with a jamb saver this comes with a composite material finger joined to the bottom of each leg. That’s all I order for clients or full composite
@gregwolters2 That’s a good point. A lot more milling companies are starting to add composite bottoms, so you can even get single side jambs with the 5 degree cut in place if you look around 🙂
My clients get jamb savers, I don’t give them an option, it’s something like $20 more. I used to do those jamb repairs and discovered that replacing the entire jamb side is faster and the finished product looks better. My local Millwork shop sells the jamb legs milled or unmilled for the hinges.
Great info! I did this same repair years ago, but in my case, the brick mold had rotted too. I actually bought another door jam (the whole thing) because it wasn't that much, and I cut about a foot out of the bottom section that I needed. I cut the existing jam with one of those circular rotozip tools, but I think using the oscillator tool would be easier.
Thanks Jay Man! I'm using pvc a lot these days for this repair, and I do the same thing you did--just buy a pvc door jamb and use that for components :)
I suppose that's great and all if your original door jamb is not too old and you can find replacement door jamb parts that match evenly.
If it’s a 4 9/16” jamb, Lowe’s sells treated prefabricated jamb legs that you can install (just cut to size) that has the weatherstripping groove. Just make sure to cut below the bottom hinge so you don’t have to mortise it out.
yeah but where is the fun in that?
@Ryan Fontenot he simply said to cut 'below' the hinge so you wouldn't have to cut a hinge pocket or even take the door off.
Have the the table saw, but the dado blade costs more than what I paid for the saw, got the saw, for like $35, dado is over $50
Thank you for the tip. I have a back door that needs repair. : )
I've been watching several videos on entry door repairs and basically the best answer really is build a porch with a roof for your front entry! Keep the water out and away from your door entirely!
if you cut the rotted portion at a 45, then use liquid nails to glue it in, the seam will virtually disappear.
That’s good advice Daniel! Thank you!
@Semper Fi Read the post I put. It explains how to cut angle and bevel cuts with a multi-tool.
Daniel Smith yeah that was my thought. 45 with a circular saw to make a straight and quick cut then switch to the oscillating multitool to finish cutting all the way through.
That’s how I do it love from England
@@joycemiller4716 make a video pleade
Nice professional work
I like using Bondo wood filler. The stuff dries hard as a rock, and you can sand it down with an oscillating tool. It works great as an alternative.
And does nothing to stop or kill the existing fungus.
Semper Fi you're supposed to prime and paint the patch onces you're done
Very helpful and detail video for DIYer. Thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome kimour, thanks for watching!
needed to see this thank you. though im scared mine might have a little more damage then in your video. though as soon as i get mine fixed im getting me a storm door to further protect it.
U]] try g
going to try this with cement board instead of treated. I'm in South La. thx for this tip and video.
My carpenter uses PVC board for those repairs. Nice vid .
Thanks Gary! PVC is a great option here too--a little more expensive, but every year I feel like I see it come down in price a little
Excellent idea
Iv done this repair many times and not always because of rot actually. My leading reason of this repair is actually storm door damage. I do it slightly different with the same goal, just different approach. I continue the "control cut" as you call it right down the interior stop. Once new jamb fits flush with the existing jamb, I run a pencil line along the back of my patch " representing the weather stripping" and run a rip. It will take two passes to open the kerf correctly. Most of the time it is approximately 5/32 or a blade and a half. Too tight and the stripping the never fit into loose and it will not stay in place. Then to finish everything off I've always used epoxy wood filler so I can sand Prime and paint within an hour
My saw blades hate PVC. I don’t like it either. There is a soda ash composite that can be submerged if you’re after something esoteric with limited availability and application...
@@TheHonestCarpenter cost of material shouldn't contribute to choice it's charged to customer anyway. ALWAYS use best materials for ALL work & not cutting corners sacrificing durability of repair
Sweet! Great video. This will make a bigger job more easy! Thanks mate!
Instead of hammering on a screw driver like it's a chisel, use a chisel, or use your oscillating tool to make vertical cuts.
he said it was a demo screwdriver, so he's repurposed it for that. nothing wrong with what he's doing
Work smart not hard
looks good, you did a good job ...I have a couple of tips.I only cut out a few inches above the rot don't see a need to bring it up higher. When you bring it up higher your bringing it up closer to eye level where the joint can be seen. Also about that joint I would use wood filler or bondo not calk . The calk will shrink in and that joint will be visible. With wood filler or bondo you can make it disappear...