Fix Rotted Door Frame (Brickmold)
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- Опубликовано: 28 май 2024
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5-in-1 Painters Tool (for careful prying):
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Check out our other ROT-RELATED VIDEOS linked below!
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Repair Rotted Door Jambs:
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Fix Rotted Sink Cabinets:
• Rotted Sink Cabinet Fl...
Replace Deck Handrails:
• How To Replace Deck Ha...
Fix Rotted Basement Stairs:
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Repair Leaning Fences:
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Replace Deck Boards:
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Brickmold trim casings on both doors and windows are very prone to rot. This video from The Honest Carpenter will show you how to remove and replace rotted brickmold on a door frame with simple carpentry tools!
Tools:
Oscillating Multi-tool
Utility Knife
16 oz Hammer
Brad Nailer/Compressor
Miter Saw
Six-in-One Painter's Tool
Cat's Paw (Nail Puller)
Combination Square
Caulking Gun
Materials:
PVC Brickmold
Siliconized Acrylic Latex Caulk
Galvanized Brad Nails (2")
For a detailed article about this rotted brickmold repair, check out The Honest Carpenter link below:
thehonestcarpenter.com/blog/h...
And, for an in-depth look at the oscillating multi-tool, including product reviews, go here!
thehonestcarpenter.com/blog/t...
How-To:
1) Mark a perpendicular line on the face of brickmold with a combination square and pencil.
2) Cut through marked line with oscillating multi-tool; be careful not to overcut into door jamb or siding.
3) Cut caulk lines around brickmold with utility knife.
3) Remove cut lower portion of brickmold with 5-in-1 and hammer.
4) Measure open area from lower surface up to underside of remaining brickmold.
5) Cut replacement piece of PVC brickmold (be sure to cut miter on bottom if necessary).
6) Prep area by caulking underside of existing brickmold.
7) Install new brickmold piece with galvanized brad nails.
8) Caulk perimeter of replacement.
9) Paint with exterior-grade paint.
If you enjoyed this rotted brickmold repair video, please hit LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE!
Be sure to check out The Honest Carpenter website for more tips, tricks, articles and tool links! 
Хобби
I have seen a few of your rot repair videos and one comment I would like to make, as a fellow carpenter with over 35 years in the trade, is that once you have the rotten material removed, I recommend you treat the exposed areas with an appropriate chemical to kill any remaining termites or rot fungus that might not be apparent before you make the actual repair. It will give you and your client more peace of mind and make your repairs last longer.
Here’s a tip I use… When using wood brick mould/jamb make sure your use a primer or paint on the bottom 3 inches to help seal it and “help” with future water repelling to assist with
Yes! Thank you for adding that..My heart sank at that sight since I have many problems with …moisture, wood decay, carpenter ants, and termites. Also those holes make lovely homes for mice and More .1
Steve sherrill what chemicals are you referring to my fellow carpenter???
You must have missed the part when he explained his reasoning and plan to adding sealants, etc.
Hello Stephen, just wondering if you do the work in 29650 area! Thanks!
I have been a diy guy from when my dad ( now passed ) had me hold the flashlight for him . Love doing all sorts of projects and helping others with theirs. The Lord commands us to help widows and orphans. No greater joy is there than to finish a job and stand back and see your work done well leaving things better than you found them ... thanks for all your helpful videos and direction as a former school science teacher I would pass on “ how to’s “ with the student body at school... they called it life lessons, I again thank you for yours....Ames
EXACTLY the problem around my back door at the garage - 32 years of sun and rain - brick mold and frame rotted so badly at the bottom, a mouse and a rat might have walked through together. THANKS SO MUCH for the great instruction!!! Got the oscillating multi-tool and PVC brick molding and 1x4, even though my problem was worse than what you showed, the solution was the same. I had 4 carpenters come and tell me to replace the door. The door is fine, it's the trim that needed replacing. None of them called me back, that's when I found your video. So glad I took your excellent advice!! $ 59 for the oscillating tool and $ 25 for the PVC trim, bless you!!!!
Thanks for this. You just saved me $$ and turned me on too a really cool multi tool. It's awesome. It took me only about 30 min to do this repair. I had a handy man tell me it was easier and cheaper to just replace the whole door with would have been over $600. This cost me $190 including buying a really nice DeWalt Multi Tool. Thank you.
To Anthony Osborne
I thought it'd be a fairly easy couple of hours DIY for me to remove a 12 in section of the bottom left side of door frame, or jamb part. A few inches had rotted, the side that borders a raised flower garden... Too much over spraying the plants over the years is the culprit.
Anyhow, I'm on day 2 lol. I put in a good 2 or 3 hours yesterday, priming the replacement wood section, gently and gingerly and slowly taking out the rotted section. My hands and wrists have gotten too weak over the years, I'm very small ones, barely weigh 90 lbs, so I get way too sore to keep praying, cutting, etc.. the rotten part out then carefully cleaning out the particles and built up calk behind that scary looking area void that is now exposed. I used work gloves and long reaching hand tools to remove the known and unknown debris, silly me, I'm too afraid of running into spiders or other creepy bugs. So far I haven't, lol. I was bound and determined to do this DIY all by myself... Well after talking too long to cut a simple 12"x3" door frame piece with a handsaw, I had my husband finish cutting that piece. Toy chargrin, a few seconds is all it took for him to cut that piece.
Yep, no doubt he could have done this job in a fraction of time that it's taking me.
Luckily I live in the SoCal area where our days are still quite warm out with no rain in sight.
I learn a lot from these very informative videos and also glean a lot from the comments! Have a wonderful weekend everyone. 😃👋✌️
You make good informative video's. 71 year young carpenter here. I always found dry rot to be like a ice berg. You only see about 10% of it. The chop saw, pneumatic nailers and multi tool were game changers.
Yes, hooray for all those. I'd also like to put in a good word for lithium ion battery tools. 🙂
If I understand correctly, it’s nice to replace some dry rot rim joist but not always necessary to get 100% of it out if it’s not structural problem. It’s tempting to go overboard with it but in my case, I think it’s OK to leave some dry rotin a few spots now that I’m going to add the proper building, paper and flashing. This was missing from my deck!
This man is showing a budget friendly solution. He's solving water creep on 2 doors with a budget of one side of one door. The J channel is the issue. Thanks poster!
Here’s a tip I use… When using wood brick mould/jamb make sure your use a primer or paint on the bottom 3 inches to help seal it and “help” with future water repelling to assist with rot.
Great videos
I watched your video twice. (Watch twice, repair once). I would not have really known all your hints and techniques, and the repair on one side of the door was done in half an hour. I'm really happy to have moved up a notch on the handyman scale. Thanx!!
That’s great, Jim! Thanks for watching! 😄
A second plunge cut an inch or two below the top cut helps with the splintering problem. The top cut needs to be nice and square so it looks good when the repair is done. The lower cut doesn't need to be precise since it is only to help avoid splintering into the remaining trim when you pry out the bad part.
I’ve done this repair a lot. Almost the exact same way but I find it easier to cut the new PVC brick mold first, place it parallel to the rotted molding, and use the top of the replacement price to guide the oscillating saw blade. Remove the old rotted piece and the new piece slides right in. Perfect fit every time and it’s a nice time saver.
Seems like the width of the blade would cause the cut to be too high.
@@littlemissy8356 not enough to make a difference
Seejanedrill@youtube.com she will show you some tricks on saving money on those oscillating saw blades... this isn't spam...😂
I would done same thing, however I would have just added a fill bord for deck so add more stubableity its more likely not happend again
So
I just caught a few of your repair videos and it’s refreshing to see someone as yourself actually knowing what their talking about and doing it correctly.
I’ve been a restoration contractor for over 40 years now and I certainly would recommend you to anyone watching this video regardless of some ridicules comments! I appreciate good honest information and a job “well done “ as you’ve demonstrated here!!
I have done this repair a few times as well. The brick modeling is like 6 dollars a piece at the home center. Rip it all out/off. Make the cuts and attach new pieces. Takes me 30 minutes looks a hell of a lot better and I don't have to paint it if I don't want to.
You said in 10 second what it took him 25 minutes to say. lol
You always need to paint over the caulk and filled nails, but I get your point.
Priming and painting the wood used for the door jam, particularly on the bottom where the fibers are open would keep future rot out. Same goes for exterior doors; always paint the bottom before installing.
Not only this but seal the ends as much as possible so it doesn't soak in any moisture.
@@SteelOfLegend Super glue or loctite is supposed to be good for sealing the end grains.
Great job on a very common repair! two small tips, follow your pencil line with a razor knife scribe which will leave a sharp cut edge to follow with the multi tool. Also, when removing the piece, in an effort to eliminate pry marks against the remaining wood trim members, run two drywall screws high and low and use your claw hammer to pry the piece straight off and away. These two things are especially useful when working on highly visible trim repairs. Thanks for all your great work. Your obviously very squared away and doing great work!!
That's a good tip!
Such a great tip!!
Great video. One tip I think to mention as I just returned from finishing neighbors' attempt at replacing is to tape back the blub weather seal on the inside of the door towards the garage whenever cutting the side jamb out actually on any project. In nearly every project I've been called to come and "fix it", the weather seal is ripped or cut leaving an opening, especially on the entry points into their homes. Once the seal is out or needs to be replaced, it can be very difficult. Keep up the good work, Rob
You just saved my butt! I have a week before the building inspector gets here and have the exact same issue just not as bad. Thanks a ton!
Great informative video, especially for homeowners that are scared to do repair work! You explained everything and the reasoning behind it!
Not sure why the PROFESSIONAL carpenters are watching this and giving input 🤦🏻♂️! This is for rookie carpenters wanting great info, thank you for your videos!
@Craig Bynog Thanks Craig :) You're exactly right--I was trying to show a low cost, relatively simple repair that a motivated beginner could probably tackle on their own. I know there are even more thorough approaches, clear up to replacing the whole pre-hung door. But this one probably has a total cost of about $12 overall. And, provided you have a multi-tool and a way to cut new cellular PVC, can really be carried out in about an hour or less. (I usually make the multi-tool cut and removal in a couple minutes). Thank you again for watching. I really appreciate your support!
Thanks for the info. I have a door jamb with dry rot, and this will help me to do my own repairs. My husband rolled his eyes when I said that I could save us a repair job on the rental. Oh ye of little faith. :) Wish me luck!
@Debbie Perkins Thank you for watching! Good luck with the repairs! I think you’ve got this 💪🔨 Be safe, and feel free to reach out to me at the website if you need any more advice
The honest carpenter doesn't like the word dry rot. That rotted area on your door jamb was caused by water and fungus.
I need to replace my rotten door jam also soon!
Ethan's videos are so good I'm always tempted to click "Like" within the first few seconds before he actually explains anything, because I just know what's coming is gonna be awesome.
I love how you explain thoroughly, with enough detail and sidenotes to set us up to actually succeed. And at the same time you keep it quick and basic enough to keep the video moving along and hold my interest. Good stuff! 😁
Run a bead of caulk on both sides from the bottom of the mold to the plate. This is why most start to rot out in the first place. I do this with all door installs!
As a homeowner who has let a handful of repairs stack up, I've watched more than a few of your videos. You seem like a really nice guy who's patient and good at everything. You should be an instructor somewhere.
Thank you, Carl! 😄
I had a similar situation on my garage door, but just trimmed off the rotted wood and sealed it on the new end. May revisit this repair and my door on the side of my garage that has the same damage. Great video and thanks for making it appear simple enough for me to tackle. I’ll post before and after picks.
Thank you so much for sharing your excellent informative DIY projects. Your videos are very detailed and the visuals are excellent as well. Not blurry, unfocused, shaky, etc... I'm very happy that I found your Channel, I'm definitely going to watch many more of your videos.
I sure appreciate your sharing your expertise and wonderful skills that really helps a new like myself, especially after these skyrocketing prices for materials, doesn't leave enough funds for hiring a pro any more.
Thank you so much. Have a wonderful weekend. A SoCal gal fan. 😃👋✌️
Excellent tutorial. I like your organization - intro, body, & conclusion. I like the many details you describe with much specificity. You've inspired me to repair my garage service door right now - if it only weren't 20 degrees F. outside here in the Midwest! Oh well, one more thing to do this coming spring.
You’re my new go to guy in these home repairs. Excellent video, very well explained. Thank you. 🙏🏽👍
Just replace all the brickmold with PVC. Home Depot sells pre cut kits for just over $30. You may have to cut to fit your exact door, but would be easier than making those plunge cuts and risk a poor cut. Then you don't have to worry about any other parts rotting out and it will all match each other. The PVC kit is also paintable to your desired color.
That looks to be in Canada only. I don't see it on the US' Home Depot site.
And even if you can't buy the pvc kit from Home Depot you're better off just to replace it all with new wood. It's cheap and a lot simpler.
@@johnschwenke6307o
@@johnschwenke6307 I'm not sure if I would agree that it is "simpler"
@Richard Starr
If you have a miter saw, it's really not hard if you have a little skill working with wood. I did it in half an hour, and I'm just a shade tree carpenter. 😆
Thank you so much for the video! I thought it was possible to fix my door jamb and not have to replace the whole thing, even though my husband didn’t think so! Appreciate it very much!
I have three doors that need these repairs. I was planning on pulling the whole door frames/brick molds. Thanks. This type repair will probably last the rest of my life.
This video was perfect - I have to replace several pieces of baseboard moulding due to condensation/water damage from a series of interior floor-to-ceiling window frames, and I'll be using these techniques. Total newb here, but I'm confident I'll manage! The oscillating power tool looks like what I need.
I have this brick mould repair coming up when it gets warmer... I picked up the plunge saw just for this repair. Always need a reason to pickup a new tool.
Thanks for writing in DG. They’re such handy tools. Good luck with the project!
john vonburg it’s not just trim, it’s part of the door frame in my case.
Nice job. I fill any gaps or spaces with foam filler before I set in the new brick mold and or trim. I found this helped reduce moisture build up inside. Also keeps ants from moving in as well.
What kind of foam filler do you recommend for these areas?
@@BalancingChaos I recommend the bug and insect resistant foam filler for many areas. Green can. Make sure it’s exterior too.
I learn so much whenever I watch another lesson from you. Ethan, you're great!
This repair emulates my recent door jamb repair.
Thanks man! I’ve been an electrician for 15 years so I’m pretty handy, but I SUCK at carpentry. Great videos! Subscribed
I am going to have to do this exact job. Right on time with this video. Thank you.
I'm going to have to do this on my front garage trim as the full south sun has caused it to dry out & come apart, I will replace the whole piece of trim, Yes I will be doing this my self, after I pick up some tools.
I do all my own repairs as well. Experience is the best teacher. You go girl......
Excellent video. Keep up the good work.
Great video I also have this problem on a garage service door. The volume on the video was so low I had the volume up 100%.
Great Job, Just wish I could've seen it finished. 👍
Awesome as a female you made this look easy. Also the tools are on my list to purchase.
While I think this was a good video to show how you did the repair, I would suggest all who think about doing this there is a better, faster and easier way of doing this repair. Remove all 3 sides of brickmold. Buy a PVC brickmold kit which already has the miter cuts done. You will have to square cut to length and one miter for the top.( you can choose to reuse your top mitered piece if you dont want to miter) if you dont have a miter saw use a square and cut angle from the backside of the piece. The kit is about 25 dollars from home depot. This is a forever fix with no wood to PVC seams to fill, sand and make look like there's no seam. You dont even have to paint it if you dont want unlike wood brickmold which is only primed. It will take less time to replace all with PVC than to cut out section and repair. Besides its a much more professional and solid fix. I charge 95 dollars a door to do these and it takes about 15 minutes. Anyone can do this with 30 dollars and 30 minutes and no osscilator tool needed( unless you need a reason to go buy a new tool)
Excellent video! You do a great job explaining what you're doing and why. Thanks!
Thank you Mark! I try to break it down as much as possible
Awesome video! Thanks for posting!
A 45 degree angle cut with the top piece lapping over the new bottom piece also cut at a 45 degree angle prevents rot from forming because water will more easily run into a straight cut every time.
Good job! And informative video. I appreciate it.
Nice channel mate! I’m from the UK and do property maintenance for a living. Really find it interesting how you do things on the other side of the pond as it were. Similar methods of repairs but on totally different styles of buildings. Would love to job swap in the USA for a month to broaden my experience as it were! Keep the good videos coming. Marc.
Marc Gray Thank you, I really appreciate you watching! I lived in Glasgow for a while when I was in my twenties. Thinking back on that time, I always wish I’d gotten to work some construction over there 😁 carpentry is one of those things: universal, and yet slightly different everywhere you go. Maybe someday I’ll get to come back that way for some work or videos!
Ah Glasgow Scotland... only been there once myself! I’m from the midlands in England which is a fair few hours drive from Glasgow 😂 like 8 !! I think the UK needs more tradesmen and women to be fair.... ones that are good at their trades and can be of help. There are still unfortunately too many people that aren’t that claim they are and take advantage!
@@MarcGray1990 Wow, England's contractors sound like America's contractors, you can trust maybe a small percentage....
Honest Carpenter, I will be making a similar repair for a customer and would like to know if you would recommend just replacing the bottom portion of the brick molding like you did in this video or just replacing the entire brick molding? I am thinking that it would be easier to just replace all of the brick molding in order to avoid using a multi-tool to make several special cuts.
I did similar replacement to 4 doors recently. One addition, a buddy/builder suggested-use Great Stuff foam or similar under threshold (if you have access). Makes it feel and sound solid and adds to air sealing.
@David Phelps That sounds like a good idea! I’m sure it helps prevent threshold bouncing and drafts
This is good repair for an EMP inspection fix if you're selling a house, but if your staying any length of time replace the ENTIRE brickmould. It's just as easy and it will look better.
I would have taken the whole piece off and replaced it with the vinyl or PVC type
This is exactly what i need to do to my basement door, thank you
Thank you. This helped my repair.
Thanks a lot for your amazing and useful advice. It really helped me to make a correct decision thanks to your advise in your video.
excellent skill - very informative
I used bondo, but mine was just rotted a little at the bottom, has been good for 2 years now. Good video.
Bondo ? Wow is it still lasting?
@@hairbarber-ology yep. Holding really well. Just checked it. Super solid. I will definitely be using it again on wood rot. Best part about it is it's very easy to work with. The area I patched though was about 5 inches high and the entire width of the board
Oh God thank you so much for this video! I’m having this exact problem right now and I happened upon your video and the first one that actually explains to me what I’m supposed to be doing. Thank you thank you thank you
use the rolls of two part epoxy (they come in a little tube and look like a swiss roll) to fill the gaps at the cut points. You can sand it down before you paint the repair is invisible.
000p1l0
Had a similar problem and fixed it in a similar way. I filled the cavity behind the brick molding with Great Stuff plus caulk.
I tend to cut the old material upward at an angle and the new piece at the exact opposite angle then slide the new piece up under the exiisting wood. It makes for a smoothe transition if you cut it right
I’ll be Dad here.. ... plz wear eye and ear protection. That oscillation tool is 1 of the best tools in a fells box. Thanks for the great video!!!
Thank you! A problem I needed to deal with and did not know how
One thing that's totally glossed over in this video is on the door side of the jamb, he doesn't mention anything about weatherstripping. Most doors similar to that one have the weatherstripping let into a saw kerf on the jamb. This is easy to replicate but does require table saw or special router bits.
I use Wizzard repair products, treat surrounding area and use the very strong dough. Another way to fix it, it worked great for rot and termite damage.
Don't spend a dollar to save a dime, as in time is expensive, material is cheap.. The use of PVC brick molding is an excellent choice for wet NW locations.
Nice job.
thank you for the info I have some doors to repair /frames and brick mold that someone just covered with siding to hide it. I know I will have to jack up and repair floor and sill
thanks again Roy
You’re welcome Roy! Thanks for watching, and good luck with the project 🙂
This was a great help. The PVC board will help with my similar problem. Do you have a video on repairing rusted out metal door? At this same door the bottom of the door has rusted out. Hoping it can be salvaged. Thanks
Nice repair by the guy on the Karate Kid, William Zabka.
Awesome video!
Thank you for the video, I needed it.
Thanks for posting
This is so helpful thank you
Good video and some good tips. From and older carpenter to a younger carpenter.... use your eye and ear protection. At some point you think man I should of used my eye and ear protection. Why tempt fate?
Good luck and keep up the good work.
Ron H My ears ring all the time from helping my dad use power tools in the basement when I was a kid.
Composite brickmold is the way to go.
Great Video Thanks for Sharing
Impressive...you are very good.
How did you cut the slot for the weatherstripping to snap into new jamb?
It happens usually when doors installed and not painted. I found it is faster and look better to replace all three pieces of the brickmold. PVC is preferred but if a storm door will be installed then wood is stronger, especially where there're strong winds.
Not much money to buy a kit of PVC brick mold and pin nail it on. I like to caulk between the brick mold and the j channel. Great video either way!
Thank you for the information.
Pro-Tip and How to Deal With Clients and Prospects... ALL wood to be seated onto an area subject to moisture or rain - I cut the board short by 1/8” so there is a gap to be filled in by an elastomeric bead which will adhere to the wood and bottom surface and it will yawn and stretch with expansion and contraction. I also use a modern primer on the two ends of the board (entire board both sides if pine) so it will be likely far more permanent of a solution. No bugs, no moisture wicking into the bottom edge of the board. Everyone wins. I also recommend to premium client a PVC (Azek) trim board in lieu of wood which remarkably are perfectly stable. These surfaces also never need repainting except for color change. Goodbye uneven and ugly surfaces and unstable knots which crack through eventually. BTW for knots, I used an oscillating blade to wide the cracks, prime it, fill it in with elastomeric, prime all of it and paint over. The biggest mistake is filling a wood surface with a hard compound. The board expands and contracts naturally and the hardened compound won’t move with this and cracks appear. If you take a moment to explain the two ways to do it and why the method you use is more durable, they just keep calling you for everything and refer you to their friends. People want to feel they found a gem. Marketing 101. 51% of what matters is client communication which must be honest and keep it very short. Blabbing on is a turn off. Don’t brag, just BRIEFLY explain why you prefer one over another. If its more than 30 seconds, it’s too long. No one wants a lecture. Once the bond of trust with that client is sealed, they trust you, no need to explain much after.
Thx Amigo,, great video
My question is just how expensive is the new brick molding? It seems to me that it the cost is not prohibitive then why not just replace the entire section with PVC? PVC would never rot period and the labour costs would be minimal.
Good job !!
Honest carpenter. May I ask you for your advice on repairing door threshold
Thanks..very helpful.
Thanks, you have a new subscriber!
I need that elector-widdling tool!
Hey man, very helpful video. I am trying to replace the trim in the middle of a 3 door exterior jam. What do you call the wood piece that goes up on each side of the middle door? It is a different molding than the PVC Brick. Is it just a piece of 2" x 1" wood? I am trying to buy a new piece at Lowes and I don't know what it is called
I repaired mine with bondo. Made a female jig to shape it. Took 3 applications then sanded. Took longer to make the jig than to do the repair. No more wood there to rot.
Your the best you should link tools so we buy the ones you use ♥️✅😀
great videos. when you repair brick mold and jamb on same unit do you always cut back at different heights or same height? ty
Really appreciate your videos. Q: why wasn’t pvc used to replace the doorjambs in this video?
That was very Helpful ty🍂
EXCELLENT VIDEO - THANKS!!! Just one question: Why didn't you use PVC for the door jamb repair? You did for the brick mold but not the jamb. Seems like it is set for more rot in the future. Thanks again for an awesome video.
How do you match the brick molding with the original? Are their only a few styles?
Very helpful. Thanx.
Good information.
Very helpful video. However I couldn't tell if the profiles of the old and the new brick molding matched. What do you do if you can't match the profiles? Thanks!
Good fix .When replacing the Brickmold with PVC material can a pella storm screen aluminum door be installed Thanks