Yesterday I built a cross cut sled with Micro jig hold down clamp and dovetail clamps so I can quickly cut angles when needed. That 360 sled is amazing and the tips and tricks you added were great... I watch a woodworking video every morning with my coffee, to me it's a great way to start the day learning something new. I'm getting back into woodworking after a long hiatus, I started with a shop-smith in my 30's which I still have and now have Rigid table saw. Mostly I'm like most semi-woodworkers "Home repairs and large building projects rough work... built a deck a few years ago, put up new railings, replace windows, a chair broke so I turned a new leg on the lathe and repaired it." Years ago in my old house I built a Family room and a work shop" Now I want to get into Cabinet-Making I have a very small shop in the corner of my garage which expands when the cars are parked out side. Set up takes me 10 minutes and same with break down I built some French Cleat wall 8x8 to help with my organization... So, I don't have to stand around and ask "Where the hell did I put my Square???" Everything is on the wall and I can move it to fit the project I'm working on! Great Videos lots of details even a small comments as you work on what and how you're doing something can give the watcher insights into how to overcome or move a project especially when you have a mind block and trying come up with a solution... like making the extended knobs on the sled! Great idea!!!
Hi Bob! Thank you! Glad you are getting back into woodworking. Thank you for your comment! A lot has changed over the years. Tools that make the job easier and some brilliant jigs made by everyday woodworkers. RUclips is a great place to learn. Enjoy the journey of woodworking! Be creative and share. 👍
Good video Gary. Last week I cut out all the parts from 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood for my MicroJig 360 Sled. The one change I made was to the 1 1/4" wide fence bottom. I made mine 1 9/16" wide instead, allowing easy finger tightening of the MicroJig green wing knobs. This eliminates having to make those extended height knobs you made. I still have to drill the 5 holes for the zero play bar. I'll do that this week. As much as I love MicroJig, and I have almost all of their products, this 360 Sled could also be made using a T-slot bit to use standard T-bolts and T-bolt hold down clamps. Cheers from Ontario Canada.
Thank you! Great idea! I had thought of that part for the fence also, after I made it. T-slots would e a great alternative also. Thanks for the suggestion!
Couldn't agree more! Microjig have reinvented the wheel. Slots with standard bolts and better clamps have been around for years. I still enjoyed your presentation
Gary, really enjoyed watching your easy style video. A note to add is to first measure the distance from each edge of the saw blade to the left and right hand miter slots for your table saw before cutting your dovetail slots. I have an old Craftsman 10” table saw Mdl. 113 298750. I was ready to measure and drill out the holes in my sled. Left side measured fine but when I went to measure from the saw blade to the center of the right side miter slot, it ended up being 4-3/32" which ran right in the middle of my 4" dovetail slot. It made this side unusable for attaching the zero play miter bar. I can build another one for the right side and cut either 3" or 5" dovetail slots from the edge. Live and learn.
Great video. I love the level of detail you went into. I subscribed and will watch more of your stuff. I’m about to buy the match fit system so doing some research your video popped up.
Thanks for posting this helpful video. Just built the sled base. Your tips and modifications are excellent. Will next build the fence for this. I'm hoping to use this to finally get accurate angles for cutting segments for bowl turning. I usually use around 18 segments per ring (10 degrees) but if I'm off even a fraction of a degree, there will be a gap and I'll be stuck sanding till I get it right. This should help a lot. Thanks again.
Thanks for the great video. I have a suggestion. When squaring the fence to the blade it is a good idea to make sure the carpenter square touches the blade teeth both at the front and the back of the blade, not just at the front.
Hi Gary, This is the first video of yours that I’ve seen. I like your presentation style. Gives me time to assimilate what you’re saying and the implications and helps me remember what you’ve said and done. On the strength of this, I’ve just subscribed and hit the bell. Ian UK
Gary, Awesome video but I think I will need to watch it a few more times to fully understand what you were doing with this. I like your zero clearance tweak. It just makes more sense. If you haven't already, could you make a taper jig video using the Micro Jig system? Best regards.
This is a really helpful video with lots of good details - the idea for the knobs seems like a great solution! One recommendation/request I have is to turn down the audio from the video when you are using the power tools - the parts towards the beginning with the table saw and the router table were pretty ear piercing when I was wearing headphones! Thanks for sharing this video, it will be very helpful for making one of these.
Thank you! And thanks for reminding me I need to turn down the audio when using loud machinery. 👍 I've done that in some videos but miss it on occasion. Haveta follow my check list! 🙂
Hey buddy. I like your relaxed style and you and I do things the same! Hahaha a brother from a different mother! Keep up the good work mate. Best regards from Western Australia.!
Great video. I just found out about this product and I'm looking to build the work bench, only smaller, LOL. I'm hoping to build a mobile 2.5x4.5' work bench with that top. But, I'm new, so I'm going to test my skill, or lack thereof, on the table saw sled first. ;) Thank you!
Thank you! As I did in the video, the router table I made to fit into the wing of that saw and I fashioned the tracks and grooves based on the router table I had previously from Rockler. 👍
Gary, thanks for that. Did you make zero clearance inserts for your saw? I have the same saw and was wondering how you did it. Also, do You find the jig useful? It looked like a good idea when I bought the kit, but now that its built, I'm not sure.
Thanks Gary. Question: Why not just use the fence instead of the mitre slots to keep everything square? You could still use the zero clearance when you have something wider where the fence isn't practicable and avoid having to re-tweak everything to get it square. This would be handy for tapered legs, etc.
Hi Gary. This is a really helpful video, especially for figuring out the measuring. I was wondering if you have any special tips for making the fence. I didn't see that part in the video except for making the knobs. Thank you!
Nice video. Did you experience any bowing of the plywood base because of the dovetail slots? I have used this concept in 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood and got noticeable bowing.
Thank you! I have not experienced a bow in mine. I just went and checked it minutes ago too. I had used a scrap piece of cabinet grade plywood that I got from Home Depot. Baltic Birch is supposed to be very stable. I didn't expect as much from cabinet grade plywood. Perhaps I just got lucky. Also here in Southwestern PA I have moderate to low humidity. Humidity can have a factor on how wood behaves. I hope that helps. Thanks!
@@GaryLundgrenCrafts Thanks for your response. I live in NM with very low humidity and my Baltic Birch came from a lumber yard and not a big box store. Over a span of 36", the bow (after the dovetail slots), the bow was just under 1/16" (actual measurement was 0.058"). For a jig that you want to be flat, that seems to be excessive to me.
@@benblackwell44 Yes, 1/16" seems too much. We like to be as close to flat as possible. 36" span seems like a lot. This jig was designed for a max width or length of 20". But if you need more than that then you go longer. In your area MDF may be a better choice. MDF is known for its flatness and stability. Albeit, heavy. MDF is also sensitive to humidity. With low humidity as you have, MDF may be a better choice. For finish I'd just wax it with Johnson Paste Wax rather than a wet finish. Anything wet can make MDF swell like a sponge and give a lot of irregularities. Thanks! Good luck! 👍
@@GaryLundgrenCrafts I agree with your comments about using MDF instead of Baltic Birch plywood for jigs. I have experimented with both MatchFit dovetail clamps and the newer ToolQuest woodanchor clamps with MDF. I took a 6"x14" MDF scrap and routed 7 slots in the 6" direction. The purpose was to see how easily I could route the two different slots and see if MDF would also bow. This was an extreme case that you would not likely do in practice but there was unacceptable bowing. I have also made a taper jig with a 3/4"x12"x30" MDF base. Since there were only three slots in the 12" direction and 1 slot in the 30" direction of the 3/4"x5"x30" fence, acceptable flatness was achieved.
Thank you! Great question. I would say yes if you want the zero blade clearance as I did. If you make it per MicroJig's plans with no zero blade clearance, then no. With MicroJig's plan you can use a 1/8" or 3/32 inch blade. You just don't get a zero blade clearance cut. 👍
Thank you! My table saw is a Ridgid R4512 (Home Depot) and drill press is a Porter*Cable 14" Floor Standing unit (Lowes). Big box store items. Some day I may upgrade to better, but these are working perfectly well for me with a few modifications.
Thanks. I guess then I would flip the table side up and rout the dados along that measurement with a guide clamped on. Just be careful to get it square to the edges.
Great video Gary... as always! I have the same Ridgid saw with same upgrades, but still not happy with the fence. Have you found any tips to improve the fence? I have to push it forward to get it to align correctly each time. Have you looked into after market fences? Thanks again for you great videos.
Thank you! I still use the original fence. True, one must push it forward to get it to lock down square. I'll have to look into any adjustments or alternatives. Stay tuned! Thanks 😀
I don't want to give this a thumbs down because there's some good info here, but something bugs me. First, if i were to re-cut this video, id edit out the original method of mounting the miter bar. Second, its easy enough to make a right and left base. Moving the miter bar around just compromises the accuracy. For me, i start with an oversized piece for the base. Adjust and mount the bar with double sided tape. Use the bar as a drilling template and mount with hardware. Cut the base to final width (zero clearance). From there its just cutting the match-fit slots.
Thank you for your comment. That is a bummer! Sometimes that happens with plywood. I usually use a cabinet grade plywood or Baltic Birch for jigs like this. Those are more stable. Haven't had a problem. What did you use? Did you see any voids in the plywood? I also used a 3/4" thick plyw. Again, thanks for letting us know.
I have also seen people having that problem with some plywood. But as I read in some blog if you're going to use cheap plywood like the one used in construction better get two half inch boards, glue them together and then use that, it will be stronger than using a 3/4" sheet. But for this jig and everything used for the microjig clamps is better to use good quality plywood.
Thank you for your comment. My router is a Bosch 1617 EVS. 2.25 hp. I always run work pieces thru the router at a reasonable feed rate so the router doesn't bog. In the video it may look as if I fed it fast as I speed up video play for brevity, and I turn down the sound track because a router makes the most annoying sound. Thanks for bringing that up! 👍
Very helpful video Gary, especially the alternative positions for the mitre bar to suit both mitre slots, which I will certainly implement. Not trying to set myself up as a 'Safety Sally', but I was surprised to see you kept your watch on when working with power tools, and even more so when I saw the bracelet. When I was an engineering apprentice (around 60 years ago) we were taught to remove all jewellery - especially things like rings.
Thank you! I think you may be referring to another video on aligning a table saw blade. Paste wax is a good idea. I have a dry spray lube I use Bostik GlideCote. There's others too. Thanks for the tip!
Thank you! Somehow I remember that per the plans the clearance between the edge of the sled and the blade was 1/8" wide. I'm trying to look that up to see how I got that. I'll get back here. Thanks!
Seems like massive overkill to me: I would just measure from blade to miter slot center on your saw, add 1/4", mount the slot guide at that distance at both ends without worrying about it being even 1/8" off, and then just run it through the saw for a perfect zero clearance. Now that you have the perfect reference to the blade, you can measure across from it to where you want your dovetail slots and clamp some guides for a router and route the dovetails. Then just clamp the fence using a square to the blade edge of the board. easy peasy... Because ultimately, other than looks sake, it doesn't matter if the plywood base is 10 degrees out from square, or it's a trapezoid shape: the miter slot locks it into controlled travel past the blade, and using the blade to cut the zero clearance gives you a perfect edge which then you can reference to set the right angle of the back fence. Everything else you spend time on is just for looks sake.
Thank you! Thanks for your tip. That would be good practice. In my years in woodworking I've rarely gotten anything on my table saw top. I use something like craft paper, cloth, or in the case of epoxy - wax paper. If I do get some on the top, I let it dry, scrape it off with a shop chisel, and clean with some alcohol, but not my favorite whiskey. Usually I use isopropyl alcohol. 😁 Thanks for the tip! 👍
Yesterday I built a cross cut sled with Micro jig hold down clamp and dovetail clamps so I can quickly cut angles when needed. That 360 sled is amazing and the tips and tricks you added were great... I watch a woodworking video every morning with my coffee, to me it's a great way to start the day learning something new. I'm getting back into woodworking after a long hiatus, I started with a shop-smith in my 30's which I still have and now have Rigid table saw. Mostly I'm like most semi-woodworkers "Home repairs and large building projects rough work... built a deck a few years ago, put up new railings, replace windows, a chair broke so I turned a new leg on the lathe and repaired it." Years ago in my old house I built a Family room and a work shop" Now I want to get into Cabinet-Making I have a very small shop in the corner of my garage which expands when the cars are parked out side. Set up takes me 10 minutes and same with break down I built some French Cleat wall 8x8 to help with my organization... So, I don't have to stand around and ask "Where the hell did I put my Square???" Everything is on the wall and I can move it to fit the project I'm working on! Great Videos lots of details even a small comments as you work on what and how you're doing something can give the watcher insights into how to overcome or move a project especially when you have a mind block and trying come up with a solution... like making the extended knobs on the sled! Great idea!!!
Hi Bob! Thank you!
Glad you are getting back into woodworking. Thank you for your comment! A lot has changed over the years. Tools that make the job easier and some brilliant jigs made by everyday woodworkers. RUclips is a great place to learn. Enjoy the journey of woodworking! Be creative and share. 👍
Thanks Gary, Finally someone who takes the time to show the measurements of the project. :)
Thank you!
Mate, fantastic vidio, in depth and great instructions!
Hat off to you !
Your a born instructor!
Pat😮
Good video Gary. Last week I cut out all the parts from 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood for my MicroJig 360 Sled. The one change I made was to the 1 1/4" wide fence bottom. I made mine 1 9/16" wide instead, allowing easy finger tightening of the MicroJig green wing knobs. This eliminates having to make those extended height knobs you made. I still have to drill the 5 holes for the zero play bar. I'll do that this week. As much as I love MicroJig, and I have almost all of their products, this 360 Sled could also be made using a T-slot bit to use standard T-bolts and T-bolt hold down clamps. Cheers from Ontario Canada.
Thank you! Great idea! I had thought of that part for the fence also, after I made it. T-slots would e a great alternative also. Thanks for the suggestion!
Couldn't agree more! Microjig have reinvented the wheel. Slots with standard bolts and better clamps have been around for years. I still enjoyed your presentation
@@WasimBarri Thanks!
Thanks Gary. A very valuable video that's not a commercial for the product. Thank you. Subscribed.
Thank you!
Gary, really enjoyed watching your easy style video. A note to add is to first measure the distance from each edge of the saw blade to the left and right hand miter slots for your table saw before cutting your dovetail slots. I have an old Craftsman 10” table saw Mdl. 113 298750. I was ready to measure and drill out the holes in my sled. Left side measured fine but when I went to measure from the saw blade to the center of the right side miter slot, it ended up being 4-3/32" which ran right in the middle of my 4" dovetail slot. It made this side unusable for attaching the zero play miter bar. I can build another one for the right side and cut either 3" or 5" dovetail slots from the edge. Live and learn.
Thank you! Thanks for the tip! 👍
George I had that thought when I watched. with my luck I would have cut the dovetails and found the bar mount holes lined up.
this is so amazing, that you still have all your fingers, that is with this type of technique over so many years. Impressive!
Thanks!
thanks for sharing on how to make the jig and most important measurement which very helpful to beginner woodworker which I appreciate so Thank you .
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. I love the level of detail you went into. I subscribed and will watch more of your stuff. I’m about to buy the match fit system so doing some research your video popped up.
Good job Gary!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for posting this helpful video. Just built the sled base. Your tips and modifications are excellent. Will next build the fence for this. I'm hoping to use this to finally get accurate angles for cutting segments for bowl turning. I usually use around 18 segments per ring (10 degrees) but if I'm off even a fraction of a degree, there will be a gap and I'll be stuck sanding till I get it right. This should help a lot. Thanks again.
Thank you! I hope that works well for you. If you have any tips, please share with us. 👍
Thanks for the great video. I have a suggestion. When squaring the fence to the blade it is a good idea to make sure the carpenter square touches the blade teeth both at the front and the back of the blade, not just at the front.
Thank you! Great suggestion! Must be accurate. 👍
I made such a table. It works very well!
Great video and thanks for your Service.
Thank you!
I love it! thank you Mr. Lundgren
Thanks for the video and those wooden wrong nuts
Great idea
Thank you!
Gary, thank you for sharing the process you used with "more common" tools.
Thank you!
Excellent video. Way better than Micro-jig has done.
Thank you!
Loooong yet useful. Greetings from Tenerife Island
Thanks for watching!
Hi Gary,
This is the first video of yours that I’ve seen. I like your presentation style. Gives me time to assimilate what you’re saying and the implications and helps me remember what you’ve said and done. On the strength of this, I’ve just subscribed and hit the bell.
Ian
UK
Thank you!
I would have just bought a knob or glued a piece if flat wood into a slot in the top of the dowell but your knob does look nice.
Thanks for watching!
Oh, and a question about your plywood, is oak any better than birch for this? I have some 3/4 birch is why I’m asking. Thanks.
Gary, Awesome video but I think I will need to watch it a few more times to fully understand what you were doing with this. I like your zero clearance tweak. It just makes more sense. If you haven't already, could you make a taper jig video using the Micro Jig system? Best regards.
He passed away
This is a really helpful video with lots of good details - the idea for the knobs seems like a great solution! One recommendation/request I have is to turn down the audio from the video when you are using the power tools - the parts towards the beginning with the table saw and the router table were pretty ear piercing when I was wearing headphones!
Thanks for sharing this video, it will be very helpful for making one of these.
Thank you! And thanks for reminding me I need to turn down the audio when using loud machinery. 👍 I've done that in some videos but miss it on occasion. Haveta follow my check list! 🙂
Hey buddy. I like your relaxed style and you and I do things the same! Hahaha a brother from a different mother! Keep up the good work mate. Best regards from Western Australia.!
Thank you!
Thanks Gary! Great upgrades and tips!
Thank you!
Thank you Gary. Great instruction for this Jig.
Thank you!
Great video. I just found out about this product and I'm looking to build the work bench, only smaller, LOL. I'm hoping to build a mobile 2.5x4.5' work bench with that top. But, I'm new, so I'm going to test my skill, or lack thereof, on the table saw sled first. ;)
Thank you!
Thank you!
Gary I appreciate the video, But I would like the info on that router table. I could really use that it will save space in my garage.
Thank you! As I did in the video, the router table I made to fit into the wing of that saw and I fashioned the tracks and grooves based on the router table I had previously from Rockler. 👍
Gary, thanks for that. Did you make zero clearance inserts for your saw? I have the same saw and was wondering how you did it. Also, do You find the jig useful? It looked like a good idea when I bought the kit, but now that its built, I'm not sure.
Thank you! The zero clearance inserts on my table saw I bought from Woodcraft.com. Item# 153117. 👍😁
Thanks Gary. Question: Why not just use the fence instead of the mitre slots to keep everything square? You could still use the zero clearance when you have something wider where the fence isn't practicable and avoid having to re-tweak everything to get it square. This would be handy for tapered legs, etc.
Thank you! Great question too. I think that is a very good idea as an alternative. Thanks for sharing that!
Gary, thank you for showing how to put this together. I enjoyed watching you do it, but I'm still confused 😖 lol
Thank you! What are you confused about?
@@GaryLundgrenCrafts unfortunately I have a LD, and I'm awful at math
@@cheryltaylor1322 So sorry for that. You may find a local woodworking group that may help you.
Hi Gary. This is a really helpful video, especially for figuring out the measuring. I was wondering if you have any special tips for making the fence. I didn't see that part in the video except for making the knobs. Thank you!
Thank you! At time mark 30:42 I made reference on making the fence to MicroJig's video on that. They give a good explanation there. 😃
Love from France.
Thanks!
Nice video. Did you experience any bowing of the plywood base because of the dovetail slots? I have used this concept in 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood and got noticeable bowing.
Thank you! I have not experienced a bow in mine. I just went and checked it minutes ago too. I had used a scrap piece of cabinet grade plywood that I got from Home Depot. Baltic Birch is supposed to be very stable. I didn't expect as much from cabinet grade plywood. Perhaps I just got lucky. Also here in Southwestern PA I have moderate to low humidity. Humidity can have a factor on how wood behaves. I hope that helps. Thanks!
@@GaryLundgrenCrafts Thanks for your response. I live in NM with very low humidity and my Baltic Birch came from a lumber yard and not a big box store. Over a span of 36", the bow (after the dovetail slots), the bow was just under 1/16" (actual measurement was 0.058"). For a jig that you want to be flat, that seems to be excessive to me.
@@benblackwell44 Yes, 1/16" seems too much. We like to be as close to flat as possible. 36" span seems like a lot. This jig was designed for a max width or length of 20". But if you need more than that then you go longer. In your area MDF may be a better choice. MDF is known for its flatness and stability. Albeit, heavy. MDF is also sensitive to humidity. With low humidity as you have, MDF may be a better choice. For finish I'd just wax it with Johnson Paste Wax rather than a wet finish. Anything wet can make MDF swell like a sponge and give a lot of irregularities. Thanks! Good luck! 👍
@@GaryLundgrenCrafts I agree with your comments about using MDF instead of Baltic Birch plywood for jigs. I have experimented with both MatchFit dovetail clamps and the newer ToolQuest woodanchor clamps with MDF. I took a 6"x14" MDF scrap and routed 7 slots in the 6" direction. The purpose was to see how easily I could route the two different slots and see if MDF would also bow. This was an extreme case that you would not likely do in practice but there was unacceptable bowing. I have also made a taper jig with a 3/4"x12"x30" MDF base. Since there were only three slots in the 12" direction and 1 slot in the 30" direction of the 3/4"x5"x30" fence, acceptable flatness was achieved.
Excellent
Thank you!
Enjoyed the episode Gary! Thanks!
Thank you!
Do you need a differrent jig for each different blade width used?
Thank you! Great question. I would say yes if you want the zero blade clearance as I did. If you make it per MicroJig's plans with no zero blade clearance, then no. With MicroJig's plan you can use a 1/8" or 3/32 inch blade. You just don't get a zero blade clearance cut. 👍
Very good video. Thx. - I was wondering what kind of table saw and drill press you have?
Thank you! My table saw is a Ridgid R4512 (Home Depot) and drill press is a Porter*Cable 14" Floor Standing unit (Lowes). Big box store items. Some day I may upgrade to better, but these are working perfectly well for me with a few modifications.
Thank you sgt.
Thank you!
Great tips!
Thank you!
great table, I'm so sorry I just learned Gary passed a way last year..
If my router fence doesn't go to 8 inches what can I do?
Thanks. I guess then I would flip the table side up and rout the dados along that measurement with a guide clamped on. Just be careful to get it square to the edges.
Great video Gary... as always! I have the same Ridgid saw with same upgrades, but still not happy with the fence. Have you found any tips to improve the fence? I have to push it forward to get it to align correctly each time. Have you looked into after market fences? Thanks again for you great videos.
Thank you! I still use the original fence. True, one must push it forward to get it to lock down square. I'll have to look into any adjustments or alternatives. Stay tuned! Thanks 😀
Vary nice..
Thank you!
I don't want to give this a thumbs down because there's some good info here, but something bugs me. First, if i were to re-cut this video, id edit out the original method of mounting the miter bar. Second, its easy enough to make a right and left base. Moving the miter bar around just compromises the accuracy. For me, i start with an oversized piece for the base. Adjust and mount the bar with double sided tape. Use the bar as a drilling template and mount with hardware. Cut the base to final width (zero clearance). From there its just cutting the match-fit slots.
Thank you! Thanks for your insights that we sometimes miss. That helps us all. 👍
Why are the measurements different from the Micro Jig video? Theirs was 20" x 30" and I think yours was 20" x 24".
Built one and the plywood base split when I tried to tighten the clamps.
Thank you for your comment. That is a bummer! Sometimes that happens with plywood. I usually use a cabinet grade plywood or Baltic Birch for jigs like this. Those are more stable. Haven't had a problem. What did you use? Did you see any voids in the plywood? I also used a 3/4" thick plyw. Again, thanks for letting us know.
I have also seen people having that problem with some plywood. But as I read in some blog if you're going to use cheap plywood like the one used in construction better get two half inch boards, glue them together and then use that, it will be stronger than using a 3/4" sheet. But for this jig and everything used for the microjig clamps is better to use good quality plywood.
what do you have for a motor in the router table did not hear it bog down
Thank you for your comment. My router is a Bosch 1617 EVS. 2.25 hp. I always run work pieces thru the router at a reasonable feed rate so the router doesn't bog. In the video it may look as if I fed it fast as I speed up video play for brevity, and I turn down the sound track because a router makes the most annoying sound. Thanks for bringing that up! 👍
How do I get the plans for this project
Thanks! Unfortunately you have to buy the kit and the plans come with that. They don 't have them to download. See www.microjig.com/products/360-sled
Very helpful video Gary, especially the alternative positions for the mitre bar to suit both mitre slots, which I will certainly implement. Not trying to set myself up as a 'Safety Sally', but I was surprised to see you kept your watch on when working with power tools, and even more so when I saw the bracelet. When I was an engineering apprentice (around 60 years ago) we were taught to remove all jewellery - especially things like rings.
Thank you!
You need to lubricate you trunnion on your table saw. I use paste wax
Thank you! I think you may be referring to another video on aligning a table saw blade. Paste wax is a good idea. I have a dry spray lube I use Bostik GlideCote. There's others too. Thanks for the tip!
At 8:50 I notice holes have been bored off camera. ?
Thanks. I showed how to bore the holes at 19:38.
👍👍👍✌️😎🇺🇸
I think they leave it a bit long so your first pass creates your zero clearance
Thank you! Somehow I remember that per the plans the clearance between the edge of the sled and the blade was 1/8" wide. I'm trying to look that up to see how I got that. I'll get back here. Thanks!
Seems like massive overkill to me: I would just measure from blade to miter slot center on your saw, add 1/4", mount the slot guide at that distance at both ends without worrying about it being even 1/8" off, and then just run it through the saw for a perfect zero clearance. Now that you have the perfect reference to the blade, you can measure across from it to where you want your dovetail slots and clamp some guides for a router and route the dovetails. Then just clamp the fence using a square to the blade edge of the board. easy peasy...
Because ultimately, other than looks sake, it doesn't matter if the plywood base is 10 degrees out from square, or it's a trapezoid shape: the miter slot locks it into controlled travel past the blade, and using the blade to cut the zero clearance gives you a perfect edge which then you can reference to set the right angle of the back fence. Everything else you spend time on is just for looks sake.
Thank you! Great tips for us. 👍
i know what u meant but had to comment anyway, ur using a 3/32nd width blade not 3/16 lol
Thank you! You're right! A 3/16 blade is 1/16 wider than a 1/8. I mixed up my numbers. Thanks for correcting me!
Great video! However, I cringe when I see you using your table saw as an assembly table with epoxy and glue.
Thank you! Thanks for your tip. That would be good practice. In my years in woodworking I've rarely gotten anything on my table saw top. I use something like craft paper, cloth, or in the case of epoxy - wax paper. If I do get some on the top, I let it dry, scrape it off with a shop chisel, and clean with some alcohol, but not my favorite whiskey. Usually I use isopropyl alcohol. 😁 Thanks for the tip! 👍
en français svp merci
Merci d'avoir regardé!