Oh WOW! That jig with the various cut pieces of angles is one of the most brilliant things I have seen in awhile. What is great, is that once you have made the small squares is they are dead accurate forever, as long as you don't drop them, and you don't have to spend a ton of money to make them either. I really am going to integrate that idea into my next micro-jig crosscut sled. Thanks a million!H
Thank you for the gracious words. They are indispensable for setting up angles. If ya get anything really odd, you can make as many odd balls as needed.
I have all the stuff. But I haven't made the most of it to make jigs like this. This definitely motivated me to get my microjig stuff out and get to work.
I got the Microjig Dovetail Clamp Pro Kit yesterday and I can't wait to get started. I have an Incra V27 miter gauge and it has all but replaced the cross-cut sled I made a few years ago. However, I was making an odd angle cut for a birdfeeder prototype I'm working on, and it just didn't work well. Not that it wasn't accurate, it just wasn't safe. I made a tapering jig a few years back as well but it's just too big for the piece I need to cut. When I got to thinking about making a smaller one, I looked into some T-track and hold downs and hardware and realized, the Matchfit system was a better use of my limited resources. I had seen your "part 2" video a few months ago so when I came across this one in a search, I just had to watch. I'm really impressed with the versatility of the Matchfit system and you have certainly maximized the livin', you know what, out of it. The tenoning jig got my attention when I saw the "part 2" video. It took my three tries to make one that goes over my table saw fence as I just couldn't get it square to the table after driving in the screws. The tenoning attachment you made for your sled is not only a great use of the Matchfit system but also greatly simplifies the jig while maximizing it's usefulness. Your series on the Matchfit system has been a great inspiration. Well done.
Thank you for watching and all of the kind words. I've been woodworking a long time. I have had the same struggles with miter gauges and jigs. The microjig has nearly solved all of my previous complaints and opened up the door to many solutions. I had used the "over the fence" jigs before with the same result. The key for any of them is it needs to be built square & reference something square. I, too, love the safety & repeatability of making jigs for the sled. It frees your hands up to actually be safe and not need four hands to perform a cut. Get creative and make the system work for your needs! Happy woodworking.
@@ChristcrossCrafts I have the Ridgid R4512. It's fence is pretty narrow, which makes squaring a jig all the more challenging. Thanks again for the videos. Hopefully I can put something together and post on my fledgling channel.
Enjoyed watching this here in Aussie-land having just made my first MicroJig MatchFit sled this morning. I can see I will soon need a much bigger shed (and probably a new set of mans' bits) after my wife discovers the new CNC router I need... Many thanks and love your work! Cheers from your new sub from Sydney - Dave
Thanks for watching down under. This system is very addictive and versatile. You will find lots of ways to use it - maybe even part of your shed build. I can't help with the wife though!
@@ChristcrossCrafts That's great! Actually she's an amazing girl and has bought me some great gifts, including the 24" Leigh Dovetail kit (I was taking too long to hand cut my dovetails), a Festool Domino system (I was taking too long hand cutting mortise and tenons) and recently a very high quality 13" helical thicknesser (I was taking too long to prepare my pieces)! Now if somehow I can convey to her how much time a CNC router would save... :-)
I just discovered the Zero play system today. I'm sold! I will order the parts right away. I was really impressed with the work bench. I won't to build one, but I'm reluctant being new. I'll be building the miter sled really soon, though. I just subscribed and will check out more videos tomorrow. If I don't go to bed in 5 minutes, it will be tomorrow! Good night, and thank you for the update. I'll watch your original later.
Thanks for watching. Sleep is important. I absolutely love the system. I would have used the zero play system on mine but my sled is a little large and they wouldn't work for me. For smaller sleds, it certainly will. I'm in the process now of updating my workbench top with a torsion box and matchfit grooves on the top. Everything is custom on it and It has taken me quite a while to build it. It likely won't get posted until next month sometime.
It sure looks like you are addicted to the matchfit system.......I just got the pro and ordered a couple extra clamps.....I also have ideas on how to make it work for me.....I'm totally excited to get some jigs made....This system is AWESOME. As far as the Katz Moses stop goes.....I'd order 3 except the shipping to Canada is crazy stupid.....Oh well, guess I can't have everything. I'm going to subscribe and keep watch for any other ideas you come up with.
Thanks for watching. My part 2 has more. I've also utilized it on other builds and all over my shop. Anytime I'm going to make something, the matchfit system is my first line of thought. It is so versatile. You will get addicted too. Good luck.
Wow; I guess I'll be buying Microjig tools now, lol. I have a few of their tools already, but with the CNC you can really take advantage of a potential (at a cheaper cost) for many, many jigs. Awesome job!
Thank you. I didn't even get into that part of it but absolutely. Plus it's easier and cheaper than metal t track. Wait until you see part 2. I show even more jigs and tips.
CNCing all those parts is an incredible time saver, as well as the precision. Ever consider selling a kit of your sled and all your jigs? Unassembled, so you could flat pack the parts, then a video of the assembly. I'd sure buy one!
Thsnk you for watching and the kind words.. Back when I built the sled I did it all old school with a table saw, router, and drill press. I wished I would have made plans for it but I didn't. I drew it all out on a napkin & paper over a couple of months. Once I get a website and time I considered making plans with scale patterns of the jigs, but that's a ways off.
If I were to make a top for a table using the dovetail system, how thick mdf sheet would you suggest I use - is 3/4” ok? That’s all I can find at my local supply.
Im working on my workbench now. Mdf may be a little brittle and not offer the strength, especially around the edges. You could edge it with hardwood and be okay. If there are no supports, I'd at least glue two pieces and double thickness it. If it's made on a torsion box frame, it should be ok as is with a hardwood edge.
@@ChristcrossCrafts for my application I’ve already built the workbench and adding this dovetail system as an additional layer. Wasn’t aware of this at the time of building the bench. So it has a 1 1/2” top currently (two 3/4” plywood sheets laminated) that I’d add this to. So would the 3/4” mdf be thick enough you believe? Thanks for your advice and I look forward to potentially seeing your build in the future.
@zach smith yeah, that should be fine. I'd still edge it with hardwood or it will be prone to chipping. I made my drilpress table out of particle board with the system before I did my sled.
Thanks Chris for the camera and editing work as well as the new jigs. I'm MicroJig fan as well. Maybe someday I'll have a CNC? Peace be with you Brother!
Thank you for watching. The system is amazing. Part 2 shows more jigs and I answer a couple of questions from my original build. That should drop Sunday.
Thank you for watching. I don't have any plans. These were made up specifically for my needs and larger sled. Some of the design ideas were taken from the MicroJig website plans and videos, and altered to fit my needs. Others were made to help provide proper alignment of those jigs at the different angles.
@@ChristcrossCrafts thats a shame, I dont have a CNC but there is one at my local Men's shed that I could have used. I am in the process of building one based on your design. The only change I might make to mine, making it more appropriate for the Dewalt DWE7491 is to make something that binds tight to the rip fence that will accept a bunch of different jigs., keep making sawdust, love the video's..
@@christopherstewart5443 Thank you. These can all be cut out using traditional tools. Some of my earlier jigs were made on the table saw. Microjig has some patterns for a few variations. I originally was going to use my fence, but it's very difficult to get them perfectly square when tensioned to the fence. It also means you have to move the part and keep it in line with the fence. Using the sled, it's all mounted and you don't have to hold or have any coordination with the part. Simply push the sled, which is always square.
Loved the video as its given me loads of ideas but I have one major problem. Every time I make a matchfit sled it sags. I'm sure that's due to the amount of material removed when making the slots. I've tried MDF and ply but always get a light bow. Do you get any sagging? If not is that the difference between CNC and hand routing? Use thicker material? Any ideas?
Mdf & regular ply doesn't work well unless double thickness. Thicker solid wood or 3/4 Baltic is best. I've had no sagging or warping on mine. I believe mostly because I used taller fences on the front and back, as well as aluminum runners. I also hang it up when stored instead of leaning it up. I have made regular ply pieces that did warp but they are part of an edging that is screwed to a bench so the warp was taken out when mounted.
Not really. It was built custom to my needs and wants. Most of the information is listed throughout the video. I designed it on a napkin then on paper with a list of all I wanted.
Hi Chris. This is really built very professionally and functional. I have a question: Does one need the vertical channels? It looks like there is no way to slide anything in them as both ends are closed. One idea would be to make the front fence not permanent. But of course this means readjusting every-time you remove it. Did you have need to use the vertical channels? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Thank you for watching. I do use the vertical channels. I slide hardware in from the back fence (I made slots so they fit). I also use t slot hardware (like toilet bolts) and they can turn at any intersection. Since this video, I've also found the clamps can straddle the main fence from outside the sled and be used to clamps parts close to the fence. I do use the clamp that got locked in by happy accident (if you watch the original build video). If I ever need more clamp options I decided long ago that I'd widen the slots near the furthest fence to allow clamps to drop in. So far I haven't needed them. All the other methods have worked perfectly. Part 2 of this shows more options and the original build offers more details about functionality of the sled itself.
Thanks for getting back so quick. I should have waited until I watched the ‘jigs’ videos before asking my question. All your videos are fun to watch and informative. Keep them coming. Have a great summer.
It my be shown in part 2. I've made so many jigs for this sled, I did a 2 part video for it. Ive since made another 8-10 jigs. It basically the one microjig made but bigger
I have brought clamps, fixtures, and T-bolts in from the side and easily used them on many projects. After I cut slots in the back fence, I can bring fixture pieces in from the back if I need to for jigs or cam clamps. I can bring in T-bolts from the side and turn them at any intersection to then go front to back. I've been using this sled for almost two years and wouldn't change a thing.
I don't know if anyone else has mentioned or if you've noticed yourself yet... but your 30° and 60° labels are reversed (7:25). And, your 22.5° mark is not on the 22.5 angle (7:36) - that's the 67.5 angle.
Good eye... If you are looking at the angle alone, yes, but these are set-up blocks for the fence that cuts the the opposite. It's confusing, but when referenced on the proper point, they do create the correct angle for the miter. I've tested them.
Cool, can’t wait to see you fly, after you get transhuman Cnc brain! What’s the point? We are so devolving! “Gotta keep up with the times…..” -the manipulative mainstream marketing propagandist who own your thoughts
Yeah. Most "woodworkers" don't have a CNC machine. If we did, we wouldn't need a "jig". Jesus. You guys are setting up a paradigm of "build this" if you have 15k of tools at your disposal. Fuck this.
Um. I built most of my Microjig stuff using a hand router or a router table. I built a few of these jigs on the CNC just to see if I could. Go watch the original build. No CNC required.
![DIY Jigs Workbench [MicroJig Compatible] | HW|Designs](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lOF0fXfMX8g/mqdefault.jpg)
Oh WOW! That jig with the various cut pieces of angles is one of the most brilliant things I have seen in awhile. What is great, is that once you have made the small squares is they are dead accurate forever, as long as you don't drop them, and you don't have to spend a ton of money to make them either. I really am going to integrate that idea into my next micro-jig crosscut sled. Thanks a million!H
Thank you for the gracious words. They are indispensable for setting up angles. If ya get anything really odd, you can make as many odd balls as needed.
The smartest jig I've ever come across...
A new fan from Bolivia...🇧🇴
Thanks for checking it out. I do love their system and how it is so versatile. I have enough new jigs and ways I use it to make a part 3.
Not just what one needs but being able to show what you are capable of doing in full detail is what makes it wonderful 👌. Thanks a lot.
I have all the stuff. But I haven't made the most of it to make jigs like this. This definitely motivated me to get my microjig stuff out and get to work.
It is such a game changer and worth looking into how it can change your shop.
I got the Microjig Dovetail Clamp Pro Kit yesterday and I can't wait to get started.
I have an Incra V27 miter gauge and it has all but replaced the cross-cut sled I made a few years ago. However, I was making an odd angle cut for a birdfeeder prototype I'm working on, and it just didn't work well. Not that it wasn't accurate, it just wasn't safe. I made a tapering jig a few years back as well but it's just too big for the piece I need to cut. When I got to thinking about making a smaller one, I looked into some T-track and hold downs and hardware and realized, the Matchfit system was a better use of my limited resources.
I had seen your "part 2" video a few months ago so when I came across this one in a search, I just had to watch. I'm really impressed with the versatility of the Matchfit system and you have certainly maximized the livin', you know what, out of it. The tenoning jig got my attention when I saw the "part 2" video. It took my three tries to make one that goes over my table saw fence as I just couldn't get it square to the table after driving in the screws. The tenoning attachment you made for your sled is not only a great use of the Matchfit system but also greatly simplifies the jig while maximizing it's usefulness.
Your series on the Matchfit system has been a great inspiration. Well done.
Thank you for watching and all of the kind words. I've been woodworking a long time. I have had the same struggles with miter gauges and jigs. The microjig has nearly solved all of my previous complaints and opened up the door to many solutions.
I had used the "over the fence" jigs before with the same result. The key for any of them is it needs to be built square & reference something square. I, too, love the safety & repeatability of making jigs for the sled. It frees your hands up to actually be safe and not need four hands to perform a cut.
Get creative and make the system work for your needs! Happy woodworking.
@@ChristcrossCrafts I have the Ridgid R4512. It's fence is pretty narrow, which makes squaring a jig all the more challenging. Thanks again for the videos. Hopefully I can put something together and post on my fledgling channel.
All the jigs look fantastic, so Where can I buy the plans?
I currently don't have plans. Some of the jigs I got the idea from Microjig. Many I made based on my own needs.
Enjoyed watching this here in Aussie-land having just made my first MicroJig MatchFit sled this morning. I can see I will soon need a much bigger shed (and probably a new set of mans' bits) after my wife discovers the new CNC router I need... Many thanks and love your work! Cheers from your new sub from Sydney - Dave
Thanks for watching down under. This system is very addictive and versatile. You will find lots of ways to use it - maybe even part of your shed build. I can't help with the wife though!
@@ChristcrossCrafts That's great! Actually she's an amazing girl and has bought me some great gifts, including the 24" Leigh Dovetail kit (I was taking too long to hand cut my dovetails), a Festool Domino system (I was taking too long hand cutting mortise and tenons) and recently a very high quality 13" helical thicknesser (I was taking too long to prepare my pieces)! Now if somehow I can convey to her how much time a CNC router would save... :-)
I used the micro Jig to make the bed of my 1010 CNC. Work holding quit being a problem.
Very cool.
I just discovered the Zero play system today. I'm sold! I will order the parts right away. I was really impressed with the work bench. I won't to build one, but I'm reluctant being new. I'll be building the miter sled really soon, though.
I just subscribed and will check out more videos tomorrow. If I don't go to bed in 5 minutes, it will be tomorrow!
Good night, and thank you for the update. I'll watch your original later.
Thanks for watching. Sleep is important. I absolutely love the system. I would have used the zero play system on mine but my sled is a little large and they wouldn't work for me. For smaller sleds, it certainly will.
I'm in the process now of updating my workbench top with a torsion box and matchfit grooves on the top. Everything is custom on it and It has taken me quite a while to build it. It likely won't get posted until next month sometime.
It sure looks like you are addicted to the matchfit system.......I just got the pro and ordered a couple extra clamps.....I also have ideas on how to make it work for me.....I'm totally excited to get some jigs made....This system is AWESOME. As far as the Katz Moses stop goes.....I'd order 3 except the shipping to Canada is crazy stupid.....Oh well, guess I can't have everything. I'm going to subscribe and keep watch for any other ideas you come up with.
Thanks for watching. My part 2 has more. I've also utilized it on other builds and all over my shop. Anytime I'm going to make something, the matchfit system is my first line of thought. It is so versatile.
You will get addicted too. Good luck.
Wow; I guess I'll be buying Microjig tools now, lol. I have a few of their tools already, but with the CNC you can really take advantage of a potential (at a cheaper cost) for many, many jigs. Awesome job!
Thank you. I didn't even get into that part of it but absolutely. Plus it's easier and cheaper than metal t track. Wait until you see part 2. I show even more jigs and tips.
Chris, great video. If you have the Vectric files for these jigs, I'd be more than happy to purchase from you.
Thank you for watching. I currently don't sell plans or files. They are fairly easy to lay out.
CNCing all those parts is an incredible time saver, as well as the precision. Ever consider selling a kit of your sled and all your jigs? Unassembled, so you could flat pack the parts, then a video of the assembly. I'd sure buy one!
Thsnk you for watching and the kind words.. Back when I built the sled I did it all old school with a table saw, router, and drill press. I wished I would have made plans for it but I didn't.
I drew it all out on a napkin & paper over a couple of months.
Once I get a website and time I considered making plans with scale patterns of the jigs, but that's a ways off.
If I were to make a top for a table using the dovetail system, how thick mdf sheet would you suggest I use - is 3/4” ok? That’s all I can find at my local supply.
Im working on my workbench now. Mdf may be a little brittle and not offer the strength, especially around the edges. You could edge it with hardwood and be okay.
If there are no supports, I'd at least glue two pieces and double thickness it. If it's made on a torsion box frame, it should be ok as is with a hardwood edge.
@@ChristcrossCrafts for my application I’ve already built the workbench and adding this dovetail system as an additional layer. Wasn’t aware of this at the time of building the bench. So it has a 1 1/2” top currently (two 3/4” plywood sheets laminated) that I’d add this to. So would the 3/4” mdf be thick enough you believe?
Thanks for your advice and I look forward to potentially seeing your build in the future.
@zach smith yeah, that should be fine. I'd still edge it with hardwood or it will be prone to chipping. I made my drilpress table out of particle board with the system before I did my sled.
well done
Thank you. Pt 2 will have a few more jigs and some answered questions from the original sled video
Excellent.
Thank you.
Thanks Chris for the camera and editing work as well as the new jigs. I'm MicroJig fan as well. Maybe someday I'll have a CNC? Peace be with you Brother!
Thank you for watching. The system is amazing. Part 2 shows more jigs and I answer a couple of questions from my original build. That should drop Sunday.
love the design and the explanations. Do you by chance have the CNC plans for sale? that is something I would happily pay for to get that.
Thank you for watching. I don't have any plans. These were made up specifically for my needs and larger sled. Some of the design ideas were taken from the MicroJig website plans and videos, and altered to fit my needs. Others were made to help provide proper alignment of those jigs at the different angles.
@@ChristcrossCrafts thats a shame, I dont have a CNC but there is one at my local Men's shed that I could have used. I am in the process of building one based on your design. The only change I might make to mine, making it more appropriate for the Dewalt DWE7491 is to make something that binds tight to the rip fence that will accept a bunch of different jigs., keep making sawdust, love the video's..
@@christopherstewart5443 Thank you.
These can all be cut out using traditional tools. Some of my earlier jigs were made on the table saw. Microjig has some patterns for a few variations.
I originally was going to use my fence, but it's very difficult to get them perfectly square when tensioned to the fence. It also means you have to move the part and keep it in line with the fence. Using the sled, it's all mounted and you don't have to hold or have any coordination with the part. Simply push the sled, which is always square.
Loved the video as its given me loads of ideas but I have one major problem. Every time I make a matchfit sled it sags. I'm sure that's due to the amount of material removed when making the slots. I've tried MDF and ply but always get a light bow. Do you get any sagging? If not is that the difference between CNC and hand routing? Use thicker material? Any ideas?
Mdf & regular ply doesn't work well unless double thickness. Thicker solid wood or 3/4 Baltic is best. I've had no sagging or warping on mine. I believe mostly because I used taller fences on the front and back, as well as aluminum runners. I also hang it up when stored instead of leaning it up.
I have made regular ply pieces that did warp but they are part of an edging that is screwed to a bench so the warp was taken out when mounted.
Any pdf plans with dimensions and cut list?
Not really. It was built custom to my needs and wants. Most of the information is listed throughout the video. I designed it on a napkin then on paper with a list of all I wanted.
Hi Chris. This is really built very professionally and functional. I have a question: Does one need the vertical channels? It looks like there is no way to slide anything in them as both ends are closed. One idea would be to make the front fence not permanent. But of course this means readjusting every-time you remove it. Did you have need to use the vertical channels? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Thank you for watching. I do use the vertical channels. I slide hardware in from the back fence (I made slots so they fit). I also use t slot hardware (like toilet bolts) and they can turn at any intersection.
Since this video, I've also found the clamps can straddle the main fence from outside the sled and be used to clamps parts close to the fence.
I do use the clamp that got locked in by happy accident (if you watch the original build video). If I ever need more clamp options I decided long ago that I'd widen the slots near the furthest fence to allow clamps to drop in. So far I haven't needed them. All the other methods have worked perfectly.
Part 2 of this shows more options and the original build offers more details about functionality of the sled itself.
Thanks for getting back so quick. I should have waited until I watched the ‘jigs’ videos before asking my question. All your videos are fun to watch and informative. Keep them coming. Have a great summer.
but where was the tenon jig? I could see you cutting the tenon from a top view but what jig were you using? you never showed it.
It my be shown in part 2. I've made so many jigs for this sled, I did a 2 part video for it. Ive since made another 8-10 jigs. It basically the one microjig made but bigger
7:27 these two angled feels swapped ?
It's possible. Lots of angles and math while recording. Good catch
WOW...
Great system
Can't use the other parallel slots either no way to get clamps in them.
I have brought clamps, fixtures, and T-bolts in from the side and easily used them on many projects. After I cut slots in the back fence, I can bring fixture pieces in from the back if I need to for jigs or cam clamps. I can bring in T-bolts from the side and turn them at any intersection to then go front to back. I've been using this sled for almost two years and wouldn't change a thing.
I don't know if anyone else has mentioned or if you've noticed yourself yet... but your 30° and 60° labels are reversed (7:25).
And, your 22.5° mark is not on the 22.5 angle (7:36) - that's the 67.5 angle.
Good eye... If you are looking at the angle alone, yes, but these are set-up blocks for the fence that cuts the the opposite. It's confusing, but when referenced on the proper point, they do create the correct angle for the miter. I've tested them.
@@ChristcrossCrafts Ah! Sorry, that makes sense. So the label is not for the angle on the jig, it's for the angle of the cut that jig gives you.
Cool, can’t wait to see you fly, after you get transhuman Cnc brain! What’s the point? We are so devolving! “Gotta keep up with the times…..” -the manipulative mainstream marketing propagandist who own your thoughts
Yeah, not sure about all of that. I like tools and jigs that work... and these do
Yeah. Most "woodworkers" don't have a CNC machine. If we did, we wouldn't need a "jig". Jesus. You guys are setting up a paradigm of "build this" if you have 15k of tools at your disposal.
Fuck this.
Um. I built most of my Microjig stuff using a hand router or a router table. I built a few of these jigs on the CNC just to see if I could. Go watch the original build. No CNC required.