Thank you so much for watching and the kind words. That means a lot. My goal is to help and offer tips to keep the craft alive (and keep people interested).
Just came across your channel while searching for micro jig info. I must say, you are very refreshing in a crowded space of content creators who all they want to do is push product and not show practical application. You sir have got another subscriber and can’t wait to watch all your videos!
Thank you so much for the kind words. I started my channel to document my shop build and continued in hopes to build trust with education and application. The sled is by far my favorite and most used jig (system) in my shop.
First things first. I like the way your mind works. I’m new to this micro jig hardware stuff. Been a wood worker for over 40 years and I’m wondering how we ever got along without it. Thank you for taking the time to make and share these videos with us.
Rather than cut slots in your rear fence make a thicker one that fits inbetween the slots closest to your blade. The rear fence on a sled only stops it flopping about when you remove it from the saw and maintains the kerf width. If it was me I'd simply glue and screw a piece to the rear of your sled and then double it's thickness by putting one more piece whose base is on the sled. You'd lose no depth of cut. Honestly as a 50 year time served saw slave you do not need a rear fence wider than 7-8inches as long at its 1.5inches thick. Well done for making your own dovetail keys. I think the Match fit System is great but you really only need to buy the clamps. Everything else you can make yourself. I would probably buy their dovetail bit as it's a unique shape and use a straight spiral uncut bit to hog out. I don't have or want a CNC. Space money and don't do computers.
I had considered making the back fence shorter (in length) but opted for a longer one for a couple of reasons. After making a couple of other items with the system, I feared it would warp easily with all the slots and without extra support. This is a HUGE sled and I'm glad I reinforced the back as I did, as other people have done as you mentioned and complained to me about theirs warping. Between the longer fence and the aluminum runners, mine has not. I did cut the curved area to aid in reducing weight and potential warping. I agree about the bit. My first few pieces were done with a standard dovetail and man, what a lot of sanding. The Microjig bit eliminates almost all sanding. I used a standard router for making the sled, I only used the CNC for some of the fixtures to see if I could and what speeds/feeds would be ideal. CNC isn't for everyone but I'm certainly glad I made space for it in my shop. I utilize it quite often in my traditional, as well as CNC only woodworking.
Great videos... yesterday I made Micro Jig sled very basic for my needs... the slot idea I will incorporate into my next sled... "GREAT IDEA" Every morning I have my coffee while watching a woodworking video looking for ideas that "Katz Moses" clamp I have seen before... that's a good product I will be getting one for my Sleds! Keep up the videos... Good Work!!!
I got a hand-me-down Craftsman miter saw from my brother-in-law almost 15 years ago. Since I got my table saw (4 yrs ago) and made a sled for it and bought an Incra V27 miter gauge, I haven't use the miter saw for ANYTHING. It's just been collecting dust, so I sold it. If I found myself always needing to cut down 8 ft boards, then I would probably get another miter saw. For me, a miter saw is unnecessary and with a sled like yours, I'd be saying "A miter what?"
Rough cutting boards is all I use my mitwr saw for in my shop. Then. I helped a friend install molding, and I'm glad I held onto it. It does have a purpose...
@@ChristcrossCrafts most definitely that have a purpose, just not in my shop. I don't have a vehicle that can transport anything longer than 6 ft. I can easily use my table saw to cross-cut boards down when I need to. Things may change for me down the road and I may need a miter saw. The right tool for the job, right?
Great video! Absolutely brilliant and I hope that you will do some more of them as you find new and interesting capabilities. Greetings from South Africa!!!
Great video and very informative. I just finished my sled and must have watched your videos 20 times. Very happy with results and I thank you for that. Would appreciate the dimensions of the handle. That would be the finishing touch. Continued success!
Thank you for watching (so many times). To make it, I used my hand as a guide to determine width and how much was required to stick out. I added some and cut it. Since the video, Microjig started selling handles like what's on the Gripper. I got one of those and replaced my wooden one. I like the yellow, and of course, it utilizes the dovetail slots.
Wow you've created some fantastic jigs and I plan on purchasing the microjig clamps and trying it in the near future. All inspired by your videos on the sled. Dan
Great builds, jigs and illustrations. Thank you! Would you mind showing of more of your othe MJ things. Maybe the already shown drill press, things for workbench, mitre saw, sharpening station (or where you have had the time to make MJ-jigs).
Thanks for watching. I have the part 1, the sled build, and the drill press table videos up on my page. They were done a while back. There will be much more coming.
Thanks. You sold me on the plethora of MICROJIG options. These are brilliant ideas 💡 that will save me lots of $$$ for the equivalent capabilities, e.g. TSO, Festool, Woodpecker gadgets. Glad to know this is the best 🇺🇸 made you can get!!
Thank you for watching. I have been extremely pleased with my system. I have found more and more ways of utilizing it. Now when I need a jig, my first thought is can I use Microjig. Usually, I can.
Nice sled. I would defenitely open up at least the tracks closest to the blade at each side so that I could drop down clamps from above in the far end (furthest away from user). This will not effect the front fence, just rout 1/2" wide as long as the clamping portion of the clamps, down to the bottom of the dovetail slot. You will only sacrifice a few centimeter of clamping track over there in the front but I think the upside is worth it. I hear you say you haven't found a need for using clamps in the front to back slots, but clamping small parts I see as a major win with using this kind of sleds, and the clamps are just faster to work with than hold downs. Refer to around 2.05 in my video (+10 year old sled, prior matchfit clamp era) what I mean with dropping down the clamps from above. You wouldn't need to rout all the way through as I mentioned above. ruclips.net/video/UuoqtK3L-MY/видео.html
All very good points. What I've found is I can access the clamps from behind the main fence. I slide them in from behind, they straddle the fence, and allow clamping right at the fence if needed. I resolved over a year ago to route enough clearance to drop the clamps in if I ever needed to. Between straddling the fence and other fixtures, so far I haven't needed to.
@@CarmoniusFinsnickeri if your fence is tall that presents an issue. As long asit doesn't exceed the clamp range you are set. Mine are just shy using 3/4" material so I made a clamp extender that slips on if needed.
@@ChristcrossCrafts your solution was simple and scalable. I have also 3D printed but it is limited in size and material. Now I have two ways of doing. Thanks
What I did to bring clamps in from back is simply enlarged the groves at the back a few inches so I can drop the clamp in from the top, then run it forward. Why route in groves if you can’t use them?
I use my grooves all the time. I have never needed to update my slots to allow for clamps from the back fence (and I have been prepared to should I need to). I can clamp from the main fence (closest to me) by straddling the fence with the clamp. The grooves go all the way. I use the slots for hardware and fixtures constantly.
MicroJig is a great tool. Most folks do not want to buy Birch Ply which in my opinion is the BEST plywood for jigs. Most stores like Homedpot or Lowes do not carry Birch Ply. I have been using minimum 18 Ply or 3/4 in. for best sturdy jigs. The Ply from the big box stores I have found the jig is not rigid or have holes in the ply and the jig is not reliable for doing routing or holding material.
Yes, there are other options but the Baltic offers the best rigidity and strength. Phenolic and other dense plastics have some benefit but don't do well for applications like this.
This is awesome I just bought into this system I just started to Woodworking looking forward to using it to joint out some boards. Right now I'm just using pallets that I get from work. Also if I see some cull lumber at box stores I pick it up. Can I ask why the walnut for the home made inserts. I have so many questions 😅 thanks for the video
I use the tall fence for multiple purposes. One of them is a straight edge for the router which can perform that task. It also serves as a tapering jig, as well as several other odd ball uses.
Great sled, the jigs you’ve made are very useful. I do have a question. What T-bolts are you yawing that can make the turns in the intersection? I have the rectangular nuts from Klinpour. All the T-bolts I find are the 5/16” ones that doin’t fit.
I'm looking at building this, and was wondering what your gap was between the dovetail slots. I was thinking 4" on my build but that doesn't seem quite narrow enough and yours look more like 3"
I went with 3.5". I planned on 3, but felt that would weaken it since its so large. 4 seemed too much and so I split the difference. Between that, the hefty fence, and the aluminum runners, I felt it would be plenty stable. It hasn't been an issue at all .
How do you like the Katz=Moses stop after these months? Any drawbacks to using it with the dovetail hardware instead of the native hardware & T-Track it comes with?
I love it. It fit perfectly on my fence and allows adjustment up without losing my settings. It integrates perfectly with the matchfit hardware and knobs. I have found a way to ensure precise setup simply using a square off the sled. If I need to move one way or the other, the face adjustment makes it easy. I'd suggest getting the stop prior to making your fence to ensure fitment from top to bottom. I lucked out and it is less than 1/32" gap between the sled and bottom of the fence.
Thank you, but they are not. I barely have time to make the one, lol. I've considered making plans, but most of mine are one offs or custom for certain things.
Man I love your videos. Great teaching style with a lot of terrific ideas for using the MatchFit system.
Thank you so much for watching and the kind words. That means a lot. My goal is to help and offer tips to keep the craft alive (and keep people interested).
Just came across your channel while searching for micro jig info. I must say, you are very refreshing in a crowded space of content creators who all they want to do is push product and not show practical application. You sir have got another subscriber and can’t wait to watch all your videos!
Thank you so much for the kind words. I started my channel to document my shop build and continued in hopes to build trust with education and application. The sled is by far my favorite and most used jig (system) in my shop.
First things first. I like the way your mind works. I’m new to this micro jig hardware stuff. Been a wood worker for over 40 years and I’m wondering how we ever got along without it. Thank you for taking the time to make and share these videos with us.
I'm glad it was a help. I finding more and more uses all the time.
Rather than cut slots in your rear fence make a thicker one that fits inbetween the slots closest to your blade. The rear fence on a sled only stops it flopping about when you remove it from the saw and maintains the kerf width. If it was me I'd simply glue and screw a piece to the rear of your sled and then double it's thickness by putting one more piece whose base is on the sled. You'd lose no depth of cut. Honestly as a 50 year time served saw slave you do not need a rear fence wider than 7-8inches as long at its 1.5inches thick.
Well done for making your own dovetail keys. I think the Match fit System is great but you really only need to buy the clamps. Everything else you can make yourself. I would probably buy their dovetail bit as it's a unique shape and use a straight spiral uncut bit to hog out. I don't have or want a CNC. Space money and don't do computers.
I had considered making the back fence shorter (in length) but opted for a longer one for a couple of reasons. After making a couple of other items with the system, I feared it would warp easily with all the slots and without extra support. This is a HUGE sled and I'm glad I reinforced the back as I did, as other people have done as you mentioned and complained to me about theirs warping. Between the longer fence and the aluminum runners, mine has not.
I did cut the curved area to aid in reducing weight and potential warping.
I agree about the bit. My first few pieces were done with a standard dovetail and man, what a lot of sanding. The Microjig bit eliminates almost all sanding. I used a standard router for making the sled, I only used the CNC for some of the fixtures to see if I could and what speeds/feeds would be ideal. CNC isn't for everyone but I'm certainly glad I made space for it in my shop. I utilize it quite often in my traditional, as well as CNC only woodworking.
Well done Sir!
Thank you for the kind words.
Great videos... yesterday I made Micro Jig sled very basic for my needs... the slot idea I will incorporate into my next sled... "GREAT IDEA" Every morning I have my coffee while watching a woodworking video looking for ideas that "Katz Moses" clamp I have seen before... that's a good product I will be getting one for my Sleds! Keep up the videos... Good Work!!!
Thank you for watching. I had originally planned on another stop option buy figured this was worth a try. So far I love it.
Thanks for sharing your wonderful work with this match fit set and some of the great ideas you have. I'm sold. God bless you brother 👍🏾
Happy to help. I certainly love all the way its helped me.
I got a hand-me-down Craftsman miter saw from my brother-in-law almost 15 years ago. Since I got my table saw (4 yrs ago) and made a sled for it and bought an Incra V27 miter gauge, I haven't use the miter saw for ANYTHING. It's just been collecting dust, so I sold it.
If I found myself always needing to cut down 8 ft boards, then I would probably get another miter saw. For me, a miter saw is unnecessary and with a sled like yours, I'd be saying "A miter what?"
Rough cutting boards is all I use my mitwr saw for in my shop. Then. I helped a friend install molding, and I'm glad I held onto it. It does have a purpose...
@@ChristcrossCrafts most definitely that have a purpose, just not in my shop.
I don't have a vehicle that can transport anything longer than 6 ft. I can easily use my table saw to cross-cut boards down when I need to.
Things may change for me down the road and I may need a miter saw. The right tool for the job, right?
I never thought of such...WOW !!!
Thanks for watching. I love this sled and system.
Thank you for your Ideas
Happy to help. I love these jigs.
Thanks for the great ideas!! Newly addicted Matchfit junkie!!
Careful, it only gets worse from here
Great video! Absolutely brilliant and I hope that you will do some more of them as you find new and interesting capabilities.
Greetings from South Africa!!!
Thank you for watching. Likely the commenter that's furthest away that I'm aware of.
Stay safe my friend.
@@ChristcrossCrafts Thanks so much for your kind thoughts. Stay safe too!
Great ideas. Thanks.
It's a shop game changer.
I love the Katz Moses as well, I got a ton of ideas from this video! Great job!
Thank you. As woodworkers we have to find inspiration anywhere we can. Its a community thing.
Another great video! Keep them coming.
Thank you. I may be out for a while. I'm about to completely revamp my shop. My prototype dust collector just arrived.
Chris thank you for your videos. I love the micro jig sled and all the great options. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for watching and the kind words.
Great video and very informative. I just finished my sled and must have watched your videos 20 times. Very happy with results and I thank you for that. Would appreciate the dimensions of the handle. That would be the finishing touch. Continued success!
Thank you for watching (so many times). To make it, I used my hand as a guide to determine width and how much was required to stick out. I added some and cut it.
Since the video, Microjig started selling handles like what's on the Gripper. I got one of those and replaced my wooden one. I like the yellow, and of course, it utilizes the dovetail slots.
@@ChristcrossCrafts Thank you for the information and quick response!
Wow you've created some fantastic jigs and I plan on purchasing the microjig clamps and trying it in the near future. All inspired by your videos on the sled. Dan
Thank you for the kind words. It's a system that works and has proven to be very valuable in my shop.
Thanks for the great tutorials!! Have JKM Stop Block and getting started with Matchfit System!!
Thanks for watching. I've been meaning to do a full review on the stop block but time has kept me from it. It is a great addition to the sled.
Great builds, jigs and illustrations. Thank you!
Would you mind showing of more of your othe MJ things. Maybe the already shown drill press, things for workbench, mitre saw, sharpening station (or where you have had the time to make MJ-jigs).
Thanks for watching. I have the part 1, the sled build, and the drill press table videos up on my page. They were done a while back.
There will be much more coming.
@@ChristcrossCrafts looking forward to it.
I think you are starting a new religion!
Lol. I'm just making a great system work better for me... and sharing my journey so it might help others too.
Great work
Thanks. Great system.
I bought a big pack of 5” screws so I can cut them to whatever length I need.
Good call. That works really well.
I added slots at the back of my sled so that I can put clamps in from the back side.
I've considered doing it to one. There is one slot that would have come in handy the other day but used a workaround so I held off.
i put springs on my clamps starting from the hex bolt so you don't fight with them when you unscrew it. goes back up by itself.
I thought about that but decided I didn't want to fight the springs.
Thanks. You sold me on the plethora of MICROJIG options. These are brilliant ideas 💡 that will save me lots of $$$ for the equivalent capabilities, e.g. TSO, Festool, Woodpecker gadgets. Glad to know this is the best 🇺🇸 made you can get!!
Thank you for watching. I have been extremely pleased with my system. I have found more and more ways of utilizing it. Now when I need a jig, my first thought is can I use Microjig. Usually, I can.
Great video! I am investing in match fit also. I love the system. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for watching. It truly is an amazing benefit in the shop
Nice sled. I would defenitely open up at least the tracks closest to the blade at each side so that I could drop down clamps from above in the far end (furthest away from user). This will not effect the front fence, just rout 1/2" wide as long as the clamping portion of the clamps, down to the bottom of the dovetail slot. You will only sacrifice a few centimeter of clamping track over there in the front but I think the upside is worth it. I hear you say you haven't found a need for using clamps in the front to back slots, but clamping small parts I see as a major win with using this kind of sleds, and the clamps are just faster to work with than hold downs. Refer to around 2.05 in my video (+10 year old sled, prior matchfit clamp era) what I mean with dropping down the clamps from above. You wouldn't need to rout all the way through as I mentioned above. ruclips.net/video/UuoqtK3L-MY/видео.html
All very good points. What I've found is I can access the clamps from behind the main fence. I slide them in from behind, they straddle the fence, and allow clamping right at the fence if needed.
I resolved over a year ago to route enough clearance to drop the clamps in if I ever needed to. Between straddling the fence and other fixtures, so far I haven't needed to.
@@ChristcrossCrafts ok, good answer, didn't think of that you can reach with the clamps over the fence.
@@CarmoniusFinsnickeri if your fence is tall that presents an issue. As long asit doesn't exceed the clamp range you are set. Mine are just shy using 3/4" material so I made a clamp extender that slips on if needed.
Idea, cut 1" holes in it to reduce weight.
With so many slots, I don't want to risk any opportunities to warp. It looks heavier than it is. Good thought, though.
I have added my own hardware with my 3d printer
There are many times I wished I had a 3d printer. Not yet though.
@@ChristcrossCrafts your solution was simple and scalable. I have also 3D printed but it is limited in size and material. Now I have two ways of doing. Thanks
What I did to bring clamps in from back is simply enlarged the groves at the back a few inches so I can drop the clamp in from the top, then run it forward. Why route in groves if you can’t use them?
I use my grooves all the time. I have never needed to update my slots to allow for clamps from the back fence (and I have been prepared to should I need to). I can clamp from the main fence (closest to me) by straddling the fence with the clamp. The grooves go all the way. I use the slots for hardware and fixtures constantly.
MicroJig is a great tool. Most folks do not want to buy Birch Ply which in my opinion is the BEST plywood for jigs. Most stores like Homedpot or Lowes do not carry Birch Ply. I have been using minimum 18 Ply or 3/4 in. for best sturdy jigs. The Ply from the big box stores I have found the jig is not rigid or have holes in the ply and the jig is not reliable for doing routing or holding material.
Yes, there are other options but the Baltic offers the best rigidity and strength. Phenolic and other dense plastics have some benefit but don't do well for applications like this.
This is awesome I just bought into this system I just started to Woodworking looking forward to using it to joint out some boards. Right now I'm just using pallets that I get from work. Also if I see some cull lumber at box stores I pick it up. Can I ask why the walnut for the home made inserts. I have so many questions 😅 thanks for the video
Thanks for watching. Woodworking is addictive... be careful. I used walnut because it's what I had. Any hardwood will work.
Do you have a dado jig for the router using micro jig system?
I use the tall fence for multiple purposes. One of them is a straight edge for the router which can perform that task. It also serves as a tapering jig, as well as several other odd ball uses.
Great sled, the jigs you’ve made are very useful. I do have a question. What T-bolts are you yawing that can make the turns in the intersection? I have the rectangular nuts from Klinpour. All the T-bolts I find are the 5/16” ones that doin’t fit.
Thank you for watching. They are 1/4" t bolts with the elongated head. They sell 4 lengths. They are snug but do move freely in the grooves.
I'm looking at building this, and was wondering what your gap was between the dovetail slots. I was thinking 4" on my build but that doesn't seem quite narrow enough and yours look more like 3"
I went with 3.5". I planned on 3, but felt that would weaken it since its so large. 4 seemed too much and so I split the difference. Between that, the hefty fence, and the aluminum runners, I felt it would be plenty stable. It hasn't been an issue at all .
How do you like the Katz=Moses stop after these months? Any drawbacks to using it with the dovetail hardware instead of the native hardware & T-Track it comes with?
I love it. It fit perfectly on my fence and allows adjustment up without losing my settings. It integrates perfectly with the matchfit hardware and knobs.
I have found a way to ensure precise setup simply using a square off the sled. If I need to move one way or the other, the face adjustment makes it easy.
I'd suggest getting the stop prior to making your fence to ensure fitment from top to bottom. I lucked out and it is less than 1/32" gap between the sled and bottom of the fence.
Been looking in Lowe's, HD, ACE & True Value... Can't find 1032 threaded rod anywhere! Did you have any luck?
Not threaded rod but did find some longer screws. I also got a tap & die set so I can make my own if I want to.
What is the maximum panel you can cut on your sled? Great system.
I can crosscut 26" wide.
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼💪🏽
Time to get jiggy with it.
If your jigs are on ebay or etsy I'd buy a few
Thank you, but they are not. I barely have time to make the one, lol. I've considered making plans, but most of mine are one offs or custom for certain things.