I just started watching your video, maybe 45 seconds, was so thankful for your details, not everyone is on the same levels, therefore your great attention to detail, will save many woodworkers from getting the wrong drill bits etc, no music, just absolutely great, can’t wait to watch the whole video, checked like, and want to see ( all ) your video’s!
I met Jim Heavey at a wood show in Columbus, OH many years ago. I must say he is as knowledgeable and as kind as he appears on this video. Thanks to WOOD and Mr. Heavey for bringing the craft of woodworking to thousands of garage shops like mine. Thank you so much!
Bought this for my friend for his birthday, and he loves it. Father-in-law was a little jealous, even. :) Built solid, but light enough to move around for projects. Easy to use ruclips.net/user/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe and makes great precision cuts. Doesn't come with a laser mount, but the fence is straight as an arrow and if you measure carefully, it's not a problem. Can handle dimensional lumber with ease, but of course, there's a limit to how thick. Handled a 4x4" post without a problem, but 4x6" we had to flip and cut twice. Only thing we've noticed is make sure to tighten the nut that holds the saw blade when you take it out of the box and maybe check up on it occasionally. For some, this is probably a no-brainer, but we neglected to do this and a few months in, found the motor running but the blade spinning at about half speed or less. Tightened the nut, and problem was solved. Very happy with this purchase. Dewalt makes sturdy stuff.
Being a baltic birch user myself, because I like it better than domestic plywood, Mr. Heavey's use of 3/4" baltic for his very usable jigs is/was a very good choice. And... I subscribed in order to see what else he has to offer. Mr. Heavey is obviously a very experienced wood worker, who even those of us who are thought of as experienced can learn something new. Well done Mr. Heavey ... thanx!
I’ve watched a dozen or more tablesaw jig videos. And just when I thought I had seen it all, I watched your video and learned a ton of techniques. I am giving my older tablesaw to a friend just starting out…this is the best video to recommend he watch, right out of the gate.
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
because it’s spam. I’ve been seeing a lot of these comments on RUclips lately. They’re usually all about a paragraph long, maybe just slightly related to the topic of the video and all of them have some sort of link posted in them. They also usually have an inflated number of likes compared to all the other real comments. I’d avoid clicking on any of those links 🤷♂️
I never once considered a sled stop. Going to make one! This is the most interesting takeaway from this video for me (it was all really done well!). Thanks!!
Ha! watched jim's old jig video many times, and who better to update it with none other than Jim Heavey himself. It's nice to see him not only woodworking still, but even make some improvements to the jigs he originally mentioned. Awesome
Great video! But if I may offer a hint, a better way to cut threaded rod is to set two nuts at the required length, and using two spanners, jam them together. Use one of the nuts as a guide for your saw. The nuts won't move while you are sawing - but you will achieve a precise, 90º cut that creates minimal damage to the end of your thread
Nice video! I will be making the ripping sled with one minor adjustment. I’ll be putting a runner for the mitre slot so it’s not necessary to set the fence ever time.
Clean, clear and to the point! Great presentation and very impressive. You have great teaching ability. Simple enough that even this twit can follow. How can one not love that it is made from just 1/2 sheet of ply. I will save this video for reference for when I build mine. Only suggestion I would make is using the two sliders instead of just one on the crosscut jig for better precision. You now have another subscriber.
Great information. I had almost given up on Wood Mag as the info had turned a bit stale. This video was extremely useful with just enough detail to keep it on track. Kudos to the producer. New sub.
Holy crap, I've seen a lot of cross cut sleds but again, holy crap, yours has got to be the best, now I have to toss the one I already built a few months back and make a new one your way. I'm a retired carpenter trying my hand at woodworking so all this is new to me. I've never needed a crosscut sled before now so thank you for the genius idea to make things easier for me. I already built a router table and a drill press table but I was never really happy with the crosscut sled. I will be now though.
Love these videos... A possible addition... On the fence tools, especially the saddle tool, I'd worry about vertical stiffness. There is a fulcrum created by the bridge board to vertical fence boards. If a person tightens the knobs on the back too much or if a person pushes too much on the top of the taller fence boards you might see deflection at the bottom of the taller board resulting in inconsistent cuts. To fix this I'd add some gussets that attach the bridge board to the taller fence board to stiffen up that joint to better keep the taller fence board vertical.
Sometimes we forget to have a nut on the bolt or all thread when we cut it to length, to clean it up just run the cut portion on a wire brush or wheel. Works great.
For the ripping sled and many other applications, go for the dovetail clamps or rail clamps instead of those hold downs. Cheaper (clamps can be used in many different jigs and are quick to move), way quicker to adopt to different thicknesses, easier to slide than a bolt, no bending of the jig since the clamps takes the force, more wide spread force on the routed t-track compared to a bolt head.
I think those clamps might be faster to use for a single piece, but not as good for repeatability on multiple pieces for tapers since you'd lose your taper every time you removed a part
@@tmuka That is solved easily by adding a side fence that can be angled. Weblinks seems to result in that this comment is deleted but search for "improve your jigs with rail clamps fine woodworking" and you understand what I mean.
Hello Jim, Fix a Tape Rule alongside each T grove. Now you can easily select the pair of hold down blocks at one distance so you can make two cuts parallel.
It is difficult to understand the economics of imported lumber being more expensive than imported goods made from imported lumber. Something smells funny, and if I had more time, I'd follow the money and figure out what billionaires it benefits .
Excellent. I've started building jigs like this, but I need to step it up and build better quality jig. Nice project for the woodbe woodworker expanding their tool kit! 😍
Great jigs - simple but yet very useful. Thanks Jim. I also wonder if the last jig can be used in such a way as to compensate for the blade width by adjusting the screw and then use it for cutting dados for any material thickness.
Very nice. Is there a reason you put the tee nuts on the top of the taper jig instead of the bottom? Putting them on the bottom would make the tightening force push the tee nuts in place instead of pulling them out. (Of course, the force is probably small enough that it doesn't matter.)
I too noticed there was no mention or process shown to make sure the back fence was square to the table saw fence. I attach back fence with one screw on the outside end, then use a high quality precise square to square things up. Works well. 5 cut method good if you need ultra precision.
On your tapering jig, how would it work to have the expansion pieces for larger/thicker material notched from the center hole to one edge so they can be slipped in without needing to completely remove the tightening knob?
Hey Jim, I have a old craftsman contractor saw. Adjusting this saw to cut a 45 degree bevel very difficult. Then afterwards to dial it back to an accurate 90 degree is equally difficult and very time consuming. In your collection of table saw jigs do you have or can you recommend a jig that I can use on the table top to achieve a 45 degree bevel without moving the saw blade? I really enjoy your instructional videos. Thanks In advance.
Is there a reason for not using a runner for the tapering jig? I know it may make limit the width of the piece you are cutting but, it seems like it would make it a little more secure. If I am missing something important, just let me know.
Hi there,,, thanks to youtube for recommending this to me! Can you tell me what issue this is (sorry but I didn’t see it anywhere)? I have about 15 years of your magazines…. Thanks!!
Where do you all get your double sided tape. I’ve looked at both big box stores and all I can is a thicker foam tape. In all the videos I watched your tape looks to be the thickness of painters tape. Thanks in advance for your help.
Couldn't believe I saw you cutting a tall skinny piece of plywood standing on end. If you get that piece at all sideways, you'd need to be faster than the Flash to avoid the kickback coming your way!
This would have been an excellent guide to building all your jigs IF you had specified the centimeter system as well! Too bad, because I liked what you did.
The only part I didn't like was bolting the block into the wing. I think there are other ways to get it in position without drilling into the table saw wing. Also, some people's table saws don't come with cast iron wings like that, but they have smaller sheet metal and that trick wouldn't work.
@@Wood It starts @10:42 and @11:00 you start drilling with a smaller drill bit, and then use a bigger one. It's clearly drilled into the wing. How can you say you didn't bolt it? @11:07 there is clearly a ratchet tightening up a bolt with a wrench behind it and he says, "...and finished with a 5/16" bit for the bolt hole."
one question if I may why are you working with timber and machines and wearing rings? a good way to loose a finger IF a ring should catch on timber YES know of this happening and as a apprentice and tradesman were always told to remove any rings while working , still do , only a matter of when
I just started watching your video, maybe 45 seconds, was so thankful for your details, not everyone is on the same levels, therefore your great attention to detail, will save many woodworkers from getting the wrong drill bits etc, no music, just absolutely great, can’t wait to watch the whole video, checked like, and want to see ( all ) your video’s!
I met Jim Heavey at a wood show in Columbus, OH many years ago. I must say he is as knowledgeable and as kind as he appears on this video. Thanks to WOOD and Mr. Heavey for bringing the craft of woodworking to thousands of garage shops like mine. Thank you so much!
I met him in Baltimore a few years ago. Great guy.
Bought this for my friend for his birthday, and he loves it. Father-in-law was a little jealous, even. :) Built solid, but light enough to move around for projects. Easy to use ruclips.net/user/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe and makes great precision cuts. Doesn't come with a laser mount, but the fence is straight as an arrow and if you measure carefully, it's not a problem. Can handle dimensional lumber with ease, but of course, there's a limit to how thick. Handled a 4x4" post without a problem, but 4x6" we had to flip and cut twice. Only thing we've noticed is make sure to tighten the nut that holds the saw blade when you take it out of the box and maybe check up on it occasionally. For some, this is probably a no-brainer, but we neglected to do this and a few months in, found the motor running but the blade spinning at about half speed or less. Tightened the nut, and problem was solved. Very happy with this purchase. Dewalt makes sturdy stuff.
Being a baltic birch user myself, because I like it better than domestic plywood, Mr. Heavey's use of 3/4" baltic for his very usable jigs is/was a very good choice. And... I subscribed in order to see what else he has to offer. Mr. Heavey is obviously a very experienced wood worker, who even those of us who are thought of as experienced can learn something new. Well done Mr. Heavey ... thanx!
This is why I'm glad I have a miter saw for those beveled cuts & cross cuts.
I’ve watched a dozen or more tablesaw jig videos. And just when I thought I had seen it all, I watched your video and learned a ton of techniques. I am giving my older tablesaw to a friend just starting out…this is the best video to recommend he watch, right out of the gate.
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
Link g doesn't work
because it’s spam. I’ve been seeing a lot of these comments on RUclips lately. They’re usually all about a paragraph long, maybe just slightly related to the topic of the video and all of them have some sort of link posted in them. They also usually have an inflated number of likes compared to all the other real comments. I’d avoid clicking on any of those links 🤷♂️
Harvey jigs serve the philosophy of repetitively creating with ease and precision
Owe you a lot for teaching skills and techniques
GBU
Finally, someone is using standard measurement. ☺
That’s it I need a bigger shop to store all these jigs and everything else of made from this channel. Love this channel
Thanks 👍
I never once considered a sled stop. Going to make one! This is the most interesting takeaway from this video for me (it was all really done well!). Thanks!!
Thank you Jim & Wood Magazine for your long time sharing of woodworking.
Ha! watched jim's old jig video many times, and who better to update it with none other than Jim Heavey himself. It's nice to see him not only woodworking still, but even make some improvements to the jigs he originally mentioned. Awesome
Amazingly simple and yet precise instructions make following a joy to be a woodworker with theses jigs. Thank you.
Great video!
But if I may offer a hint, a better way to cut threaded rod is to set two nuts at the required length, and using two spanners, jam them together.
Use one of the nuts as a guide for your saw. The nuts won't move while you are sawing - but you will achieve a precise, 90º cut that creates minimal damage to the end of your thread
🤙
Thank you Jim, Great to see you back making these great videos..
Nice video! I will be making the ripping sled with one minor adjustment. I’ll be putting a runner for the mitre slot so it’s not necessary to set the fence ever time.
Very clear directions. I appreciate the details on all the drill sizes.
Clean, clear and to the point! Great presentation and very impressive. You have great teaching ability. Simple enough that even this twit can follow. How can one not love that it is made from just 1/2 sheet of ply. I will save this video for reference for when I build mine. Only suggestion I would make is using the two sliders instead of just one on the crosscut jig for better precision. You now have another subscriber.
The best how to video on RUclips this is perfect great job thanks for this content
Last one is genius in its simplicity.
Great information. I had almost given up on Wood Mag as the info had turned a bit stale. This video was extremely useful with just enough detail to keep it on track. Kudos to the producer. New sub.
Holy crap, I've seen a lot of cross cut sleds but again, holy crap, yours has got to be the best, now I have to toss the one I already built a few months back and make a new one your way. I'm a retired carpenter trying my hand at woodworking so all this is new to me. I've never needed a crosscut sled before now so thank you for the genius idea to make things easier for me. I already built a router table and a drill press table but I was never really happy with the crosscut sled. I will be now though.
Axel aus Berlin, Deine Videos sind einfach Klasse
Great tutorial, you remind me of my 8th grade woodworking teacher Mr Blackmore ❤❤
Thanks for everything you guys have taught me over the years.
Thanks Jim; you’re a great teacher!
This video is A W E S O M E. I'll be making all of these jigs for use in my shop. Thanks for the information. You're the man!
Very informative and clearly explained. Thanks you. UK Dave
I particularly like the dado jig.
Excellent video. I've seen a bunch of shop made jig videos and this is the one for me. Brilliant.
Thank you so much.
By far this is most accurate and amazing woodworking Chanel, thanks for the contents.
Love these videos...
A possible addition...
On the fence tools, especially the saddle tool, I'd worry about vertical stiffness. There is a fulcrum created by the bridge board to vertical fence boards. If a person tightens the knobs on the back too much or if a person pushes too much on the top of the taller fence boards you might see deflection at the bottom of the taller board resulting in inconsistent cuts. To fix this I'd add some gussets that attach the bridge board to the taller fence board to stiffen up that joint to better keep the taller fence board vertical.
Excellent!!! I learned a lot!!! Thanks, God bless you
Great video.....i m excited with the taper jig...i was searching on how to make the "clamps" to avoid buying the expensive ones from rockler
Thank you for your information packed time consuming well presented content ,
Jim your ideas are great ...
Sometimes we forget to have a nut on the bolt or all thread when we cut it to length, to clean it up just run the cut portion on a wire brush or wheel. Works great.
Before taking off the nut, I always grind the circumference at 45 deg to remove the razor sharp edges:; plus, it helps when starting a nut.
dragging a hack saw thru the buggered up threads does too
👍👍 Very cool video.
Tons of useful ideas are springing forth for new projects I can do now. Thanks for posting this ☺️
Jim is the best
For the ripping sled and many other applications, go for the dovetail clamps or rail clamps instead of those hold downs. Cheaper (clamps can be used in many different jigs and are quick to move), way quicker to adopt to different thicknesses, easier to slide than a bolt, no bending of the jig since the clamps takes the force, more wide spread force on the routed t-track compared to a bolt head.
I think those clamps might be faster to use for a single piece, but not as good for repeatability on multiple pieces for tapers since you'd lose your taper every time you removed a part
@@tmuka That is solved easily by adding a side fence that can be angled. Weblinks seems to result in that this comment is deleted but search for "improve your jigs with rail clamps fine woodworking" and you understand what I mean.
Excellent, thank you for showing this
I really enjoyed your video.
Your instructions are very precise. You presentation is easy to understand . Thank you so much..
Walt Sommers
Your sentences are so short. Thanks, Walt Sommers!
Excellent video 👍👍👍👍👍
Hello Jim, Fix a Tape Rule alongside each T grove. Now you can easily select the pair of hold down blocks at one distance so you can make two cuts parallel.
Great job! And thank you for those tips!
Excellent - will definitely use your jigs
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
You bet!
Amazing. Thanks for wonderful ideas!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge very helpful
That's Great work!
Awesome !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for the knowledge.
good job Jimbo !
Thank you this will help me a lot ! Very nice explanation on how to make! Thanks again just what I was looking for.
Cool jigs. I will modify some to fit to my fence. Thx for the inspirations.
VERY WELL INSTRUCTED AND PUT TOGETHER ENJOYED. NOW CAN YOU MAKE A DADO SLOT JIG I DO NOT HAVE THE DADO SAWS LOL THANK YOU
Excellent...Thank you.
Thanks
Great video.
Good luck finding let alone affording, Baltic Birch nowadays.
you can find it - but it is $$$$$$
Would not be my choice for making jigs.
It is difficult to understand the economics of imported lumber being more expensive than imported goods made from imported lumber. Something smells funny, and if I had more time, I'd follow the money and figure out what billionaires it benefits .
Found it yesterday in NJ for $148 full sheet
Very nice birch for $86. I took the birch
@@samh9072Really. Where did you find it? I'm in NJ. Thanks.
👋👋👋 great job!
Excellent. I've started building jigs like this, but I need to step it up and build better quality jig. Nice project for the woodbe woodworker expanding their tool kit! 😍
Great video. These are great jigs
very nice
Great jigs.Very well explained.I think I will build your taper jig Mine is a bit cumbersome.
Great video. Now, can you add a sixth jig for cutting tapers?
Awesome presentation and amazing jigs and best of all very cheap to make thanks for sharing I’ll be building those for sure.
great video
Great video! thanks
Brilliant.
Great jigs - simple but yet very useful. Thanks Jim. I also wonder if the last jig can be used in such a way as to compensate for the blade width by adjusting the screw and then use it for cutting dados for any material thickness.
Very nice. Is there a reason you put the tee nuts on the top of the taper jig instead of the bottom? Putting them on the bottom would make the tightening force push the tee nuts in place instead of pulling them out. (Of course, the force is probably small enough that it doesn't matter.)
Wonderful
Great video! Can't wait to make it. Do you have a full cut list / instructions that can be printed and brought to the workshop?
Yep. Check the video description for the download link.
@@Wood I see it now, thank you very much!
I don't see it
good
Really cool.
Is'nt the crosscut sled back fence should be fix permenently only after doing the bullet proof 5 cuts method mesurement for accuracy ?
I too noticed there was no mention or process shown to make sure the back fence was square to the table saw fence. I attach back fence with one screw on the outside end, then use a high quality precise square to square things up. Works well. 5 cut method good if you need ultra precision.
Use forest enter bit first, then then smaller bit to make hole for threaded insert.
Legend
Can you use 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood? Thank you
what's the saw stop straight thing your using
On your tapering jig, how would it work to have the expansion pieces for larger/thicker material notched from the center hole to one edge so they can be slipped in without needing to completely remove the tightening knob?
Hey Jim, I have a old craftsman contractor saw. Adjusting this saw to cut a 45 degree bevel very difficult. Then afterwards to dial it back to an accurate 90 degree is equally difficult and very time consuming. In your collection of table saw jigs do you have or can you recommend a jig that I can use on the table top to achieve a 45 degree bevel without moving the saw blade? I really enjoy your instructional videos. Thanks In advance.
Is there a reason for not using a runner for the tapering jig? I know it may make limit the width of the piece you are cutting but, it seems like it would make it a little more secure. If I am missing something important, just let me know.
Awesome jigs, tutorial, and videography ❤👍👍. Would the jigs work on a small, benchtop ( portable ) tablesaw ?
They should, but you may need to modify them to suit the smaller miter slots and fences on benchtop saws.
@@Wood
Thanks for your courteous reply 👍
EXCELENTE.
Cool
Hi there,,, thanks to youtube for recommending this to me! Can you tell me what issue this is (sorry but I didn’t see it anywhere)? I have about 15 years of your magazines…. Thanks!!
Issue 231 (March 2015), Elmer. Thanks for your loyalty!
Where do you all get your double sided tape. I’ve looked at both big box stores and all I can is a thicker foam tape. In all the videos I watched your tape looks to be the thickness of painters tape. Thanks in advance for your help.
Look for double-sided carpet tape at the home center or here: amzn.to/3vn4zdK
Can anyone tell me if these jigs would work with an 8inch blade table saw? Or do I lose too much depth of cut? Many thanks to anyone who knows
Couldn't believe I saw you cutting a tall skinny piece of plywood standing on end. If you get that piece at all sideways, you'd need to be faster than the Flash to avoid the kickback coming your way!
How do you make sure the ripping sled gives you a cut that is square?
The sled itself is square.
This would have been an excellent guide to building all your jigs IF you had specified the centimeter system as well! Too bad, because I liked what you did.
A google search will do the conversion.
Baltic birch for jigs? Very expensive.
I think maple ply would be good enough.
❤️
The only part I didn't like was bolting the block into the wing. I think there are other ways to get it in position without drilling into the table saw wing. Also, some people's table saws don't come with cast iron wings like that, but they have smaller sheet metal and that trick wouldn't work.
We didn't drill or bolt anything into the wing. Can you give us a time in the video so we can see what you're talking about?
@@Wood It starts @10:42 and @11:00 you start drilling with a smaller drill bit, and then use a bigger one. It's clearly drilled into the wing. How can you say you didn't bolt it? @11:07 there is clearly a ratchet tightening up a bolt with a wrench behind it and he says, "...and finished with a 5/16" bit for the bolt hole."
@@jarodmorris611 You are right. However an epoxy will do the same job.
@@Wood 2+ years of silence?
Where are the layouts???
Link in description.
Sorry...spoke too soon. ?The taper jig is great!
I'm 90% sure that Jim is ex military. Only military give concise and rapid fire instruction...
ex Fire Department Battalion Chief, as a matter of fact.
@@Wood Close enough Great job No antics
one question if I may why are you working with timber and machines and wearing rings? a good way to loose a finger IF a ring should catch on timber YES know of this happening and as a apprentice and tradesman were always told to remove any rings while working , still do , only a matter of when