Tha plans on your website show the miter bar running parallel with the 16” length of the sled. The videos and pictures of the sled show the miter bar running parallel with the 20” length. There’s also a 2:8” gap between the edge of the sled and the blade.
Tim, Sorry for any confusion. One of the great things about shop-built jigs, fixtures and sleds is that you can make them your way. Saws can have different measurements between the miter slot and the blade, so any measurement we put on the plans will likely be wrong for some saw. This is why we stress laying all the hole and groove locations before actually cutting anything. If in Step 2.1 you set the rip fence with the blade slightly exposed, then the sled base can be cut giving you a "zero clearance" edge. I personally do not do this since I may be using different blades and over time the edge gets shaved down and stops being perfectly aligned to the blade. You can orient the sled base as you wish, I use mine mostly for cross-cutting so the 16" orientation works. If you will be cutting larger panels, the 20" orientation may be better. For smaller saws like jobsites, you can even drop one square in each direction making a sled 12" by 16" which fits better on the smaller top saws. Please feel free to email or call our office if you need more info; (855) 747-7233
At 6:49 your instructions say to clamp the base to the face of the fence. Are you supposed to glue it prior to clamping? Also, how do you square the fence to the saw blade? Since it is not permanently attached to the sled base, I assume you must square it each time you want a 90 degree cut? This is probably the most versatile sled I’ve seen, but squaring the fence at 90 each time you use it makes me want to make a dedicated version with a fixed rear fence.
JT, yes, glue the fence base to the fence face when you clamp it. Second, you are correct, the fence has no presets, so you do need to square it for 90 degree cuts. If you square the base edge to your fence, then a good quality Speed Square will let you rapidly set 45 and 90 degree cuts. I actually use an inexpensive digital bevel square (about $30.00) to set my fence. It has the advantage of being able to set any angle very precisely. The problem with a fixed rear fence is that it will greatly restrict the ability for rotating of the 360 fence.
Art, Thanks for the kind words! A light coat of shellac is my go-to for jigs and sleds. Or even just paste wax. You do not want too smooth a finish because a little friction helps clamping parts firmly in place.
You certainly can, especially if you plan on cutting parts with the blade angled. Pretty much all modern table saws are left tilt now. I generally do not use my 360 Sled with the blade beveled, so I use mine on the left.
I often use the table saw with a 1/4" dado blade set up to make the relief grooves, but there is no practical way to cut the dovetail grooves using the table saw.
First, at 4:22, you are adjusting the ZEROPLAY Bar itself to fit your miter slot. This is using the supplied hex wrench on the button head screws. Later, at 4:55, you are squaring the sled to the blade/miter slot using a screwdriver to loosen and re-tighten the mounting screws. Two different adjustments. If this was not what you were asking, please feel free to email us a support@microjig.com or call us at (855) 747-7233 and we can answer your question.
It is actually easier than a standard cross cut sled to make, and is very versatile. Building sleds, jigs and fixtures for your shop is also an excellent way to improve your skills as you improve your shop. We do not currently make the sled for sale.
As a beginner I appreciate that the video shows how to overcome a small router table limitation for the 8" grid cuts.
David, our pleasure! We try to keep in mind that not everyone has all the cool toys...yet! :)
Tha plans on your website show the miter bar running parallel with the 16” length of the sled. The videos and pictures of the sled show the miter bar running parallel with the 20” length. There’s also a 2:8” gap between the edge of the sled and the blade.
1/8” gap
Tim, Sorry for any confusion. One of the great things about shop-built jigs, fixtures and sleds is that you can make them your way.
Saws can have different measurements between the miter slot and the blade, so any measurement we put on the plans will likely be wrong for some saw. This is why we stress laying all the hole and groove locations before actually cutting anything.
If in Step 2.1 you set the rip fence with the blade slightly exposed, then the sled base can be cut giving you a "zero clearance" edge. I personally do not do this since I may be using different blades and over time the edge gets shaved down and stops being perfectly aligned to the blade.
You can orient the sled base as you wish, I use mine mostly for cross-cutting so the 16" orientation works. If you will be cutting larger panels, the 20" orientation may be better. For smaller saws like jobsites, you can even drop one square in each direction making a sled 12" by 16" which fits better on the smaller top saws.
Please feel free to email or call our office if you need more info; (855) 747-7233
That’s a very intelligent design
Thank you, we are pretty proud of the 360 Sled design and the new ZEROPLAY Miter Bar that can now be setup and adjusted from above the table.
At 6:49 your instructions say to clamp the base to the face of the fence. Are you supposed to glue it prior to clamping? Also, how do you square the fence to the saw blade? Since it is not permanently attached to the sled base, I assume you must square it each time you want a 90 degree cut? This is probably the most versatile sled I’ve seen, but squaring the fence at 90 each time you use it makes me want to make a dedicated version with a fixed rear fence.
JT, yes, glue the fence base to the fence face when you clamp it.
Second, you are correct, the fence has no presets, so you do need to square it for 90 degree cuts.
If you square the base edge to your fence, then a good quality Speed Square will let you rapidly set 45 and 90 degree cuts.
I actually use an inexpensive digital bevel square (about $30.00) to set my fence. It has the advantage of being able to set any angle very precisely.
The problem with a fixed rear fence is that it will greatly restrict the ability for rotating of the 360 fence.
Great presentation which sold me on making one. Should some type of finish be applied to the wood? WELL DONE!! Thank you.
Art, Thanks for the kind words!
A light coat of shellac is my go-to for jigs and sleds. Or even just paste wax. You do not want too smooth a finish because a little friction helps clamping parts firmly in place.
I love this system
I have a SawStop table saw which tilts to the left. Should I use the right miter slot for the sled?
You certainly can, especially if you plan on cutting parts with the blade angled.
Pretty much all modern table saws are left tilt now.
I generally do not use my 360 Sled with the blade beveled, so I use mine on the left.
What's the difference between this sled and the ultimate sled
Any way to use a table saw to make the grooves?
I often use the table saw with a 1/4" dado blade set up to make the relief grooves, but there is no practical way to cut the dovetail grooves using the table saw.
What was the point in the adjustment I’m the beginning if we just reverse it in the end and put it at the narrow point?
First, at 4:22, you are adjusting the ZEROPLAY Bar itself to fit your miter slot. This is using the supplied hex wrench on the button head screws.
Later, at 4:55, you are squaring the sled to the blade/miter slot using a screwdriver to loosen and re-tighten the mounting screws.
Two different adjustments.
If this was not what you were asking, please feel free to email us a support@microjig.com or call us at (855) 747-7233 and we can answer your question.
Should a finish be applied to the finished sled?
Looks extremely complicated to make? Does anyone just sell them?
It is actually easier than a standard cross cut sled to make, and is very versatile. Building sleds, jigs and fixtures for your shop is also an excellent way to improve your skills as you improve your shop.
We do not currently make the sled for sale.