Simple Method for removing sticky 3d-printed Objects from the Build-Plate
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- There are many hints on RUclips, how to get a 3d-printed object sticking well on a build-plate, but there is no good hint, how to remove it. My method is quite simple, I'm spraying a mix of water and alcohol onto the 3d-printed object and the build-plate, ant then the object can be simply removed. This keeps also the build-plate clean and intact. I'm really wondering, how this works for other users.
Bought the carbon plate from Extrudr:
extrudr.eu/col...
Don't know if it has a special coating - I guess a regular carbon plate works as well.
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Me: Ooh that's a nice sound
"I'm silent so you can hear the nice sound"
Me: Thank you very much XD
00:33 I laughed out loud!! Keep making awesome vids!! Trying this on a 48 hour print, hope it works. :-)
well how did it go its been a year and you said its a 48hr print its been 8760hrs
IKR! Love it
Legit subscribed because of that XD
still waiting 0.o
@@TrippyEye Seriously? My post was a joke! WOW.
I've never seen anyone use carbon fiber for a print bed before, looks pretty neato!
Is it carbon fiber or just carbondum?
It’s not carbon fiber sadly
Thank you! I've been trying to remove prints with hulk strength to get prints off the bed.
It just popped like he said!!! Thanks a lot, Christoph, you rock :)
For anyone still having issues with this method, if you have a glass plate I recommend putting the plate in the freezer. Prints come off easy 100% of the time. Just make sure the plate cools before putting it in and warms up before using it after, to avoid it cracking
Bro just tried the freezer thing, no luck. I thought putting it on tape would make it easier to remove.
@@anthonynash8079 same
@@tyty9009 razor blade And a sawing action is how I fixed it. Takes a good amount of time. Hack at the corners first. Take your time or the blade will break.
hello Christopher,
nice video ! can you please tell me what sort of alcohol did u use ? is it isopropyl or it's the ethanol pure alcohol ?
How thick is your carbon build plate? And where can I get one?
@@zenmctavish7837 Iv'e been using Easy Peelzy for the last year or so. They have been great.
I had some adhesion problems and I used adhesion Lac spray (3dLAC), and now I get the oposite. Some times its imposible to peel them off
Great suggestion! We 3D print a lot at work. I'm definitely going to be using this tip!
Worked perfectly with PLA on aluminum plate on Creality Cr-10S Pro V2!
What type of alcohol do you use in your mix?
This was so helpful, thank you! I had always such a hard time getting my prints unstuck, even when freezing it with can duster but this worked like magic.
What type of alcohol do you use in your mix?
Isopropyl alcohol
We just spent 5 hours trying to get a 24" print off a rubberized bed on a large format printer. We tried everything, including adding water. After seeing this video I just added a little isopropyl alcohol to it, waited and it was off in 5 minutes! Thank you.
I attempted this method to assist in freeing my PETG prints from my PEI coated build plate. Unfortunately, it didn't work as displayed in this video. I tried this technique when the bed was heated and fully cooled. Waiting for longer periods of time did not affect the result. However, I did notice that having the liquid on the bed did assist in getting a sharpened putty knife under the edge to pry free the prints. I'm going to continue to use this method for cleaning purposes and improved adhesion for following prints. Thanks for the idea.
This blew my mind! I've only printed one thing on my new christmas present so far, and it was very difficult to get off the bed. Now that I'm starting to do real things that I don't want messed up, I'm so glad I found this. Can't wait to try it!
I was using the scraper and it slipped and cut 2mm deep into my hand lol
Just sliced my thumb open :(
Ouch
Same
Been there, done that:)
Worked perfectly, brilliant. Thanks for sharing.
Just tried it on a part I couldn't remove for hours and it worked in seconds!! Amazing!
Thank you so much for posting this!!
For removing objects i put my glass in deep refrigerator then it come with single finger 😂😁
not working for me. even after several minutes
Thanks ! I tried with alcohol alone 96% and it also worked, I'm very grateful
This works very well on mid to large size prints, or prints with more flex to them. On smaller very solid pieces it works, but you still need some force to unstick them.
Well hell. I guess I can put my hammer and chisel away. My next option was to explore explosives. Thanks for the hint! It would have been nice if the manufactures would put that in the user guides.
I usually wait until it's room temp and then throw my bed in the freezer. Pops right off after I take it out.
Would the refrigerator work?
will vodka work?🤣🤔
In theory, it should be similar, but since it's not just water and alcohol, you'll add more dirt over time to your plate. Doing it the way described in the video you'll save on cleaning in an extra step though.
Yes it should. Cheap vodka is 40% ethanol in water. It should be pretty clean. However, in most countries drinking alcohol is taxed, so denatured alcohol is cheaper.
Jonathan Knirsch
Seems like the expensive option to me but if you can't lay your hands on some IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol NOT India Pale Ale!) then vodka would probably work fine.
just wiith russian machines :D
I was wondering the same thing. :D
Hi,
where did you purchase the carbon plate?
Thanks, does it work, because the fluid evaporated and the evaporation chill shrinks the part more than the build surface due to the expansion coefficient? Regarding the cracking noise i think...
Greetings from Thun (also Switzerland ) 😉
Yep, think so. You essentially let the piece "sweat" itself off. ;)
So, spray while it's still hot is my take away. Thank you for the tip.
I recently had a 3D-printed object stick to my Anycubic I3 Mega's printer bed. I tried a few things along with a little force. No luck. I tried Christoph's method and it worked like a charm. Thanks for the vid.
I just printed my very first piece and was like "damn, this is hard to remove, what now??", lol
Awesome method, thanks again Mr Christoph!
Thank you! This worked even better than expected. Is this due to capillary action?
"I am silent so you can hear the beautiful sound..."
The beautiful sound of your German-English ASMR?
Just kidding, thank you for the video.
Omg, you owe me a Pepsi - laughed way too hard at the whisper ;) thank you very much, great information and humor! ♥
LOL, I almost fell out of my chair when he whispered. Love this dude!
"I'm silent so you can hear the beautiful sound" hahaha
I have tried and it works really well. Just after the print ends, no matter what temperature the print bed is. I use a syringe to drip some alcohol 70% along the edge of the print and after several seconds it loses very easy. Thanks a lot!
I use an Fr4 plate, it also works just fine for me...
Thanks Christoph, this looks like a great idea - easy print removal AND a lovely shiny print bed!
I assume this works due to the difference in temperature coefficient of the bed and the plastic printed part (both cool at different rates) which is accelerated by the application of the water alcohol mix. In which case, anything with a cooling effect, such as freeze spray and solvents, would work. I may experiment with different such additives to see which works best. Obviously, certain solvents, although evaporatively cooling, would have a detrimental effect on the printed plastic part and should be avoided - especially as I have a PEI coated glass bed, which could also be damaged.
Pete... Did you find out what works best?
I was assuming the same thing. Turns out you can just stick it in the freezer for 2-3 minutes and the parts basically fall off.
I use FR4 printed circuit board plate.
I have a very fine and thin spatula with a sharp point on the front. This was usually intended for painting but I had it lying around and just tried it. Result: i really don't know what your struggle of removing your prints is about as I never had These problems 😀
thank you very much for the tip . very helpful !!
I printed a beautiful statue on my glass bed as a gift to my friend's birthday. I tried all the ways to remove the print from the build plate but I couldn't. I gifted him the print with the build plate itself and he thought that it was a nice presentation on glass.
I had a test print of a small bird cage with bird inside, about 1”x1 1/2”, that crumbled when I tried to remove it from my Grizzly G0923 printer. The second time around I used, what I thought was, your method. I took 70% isopropanol (alcohol: rubbing) to water in your proportions. Did not work, so I used my Leatherman’s knife and a 6”x1”x1/4” piece of aluminum bar, as a hammer, and was able to safely dislodge it. ⚠️ The term “alcohol” is a broad category including such sub-categories as concentration as available to the hobbyist at are local grocer, pharmacy, home store or hardware store since shipping of more concentrated/professional/scientific chemicals can be problematic. Alcohol is generally available as methylated spirits (primarily methanol: wood alcohol, one carbon), denatured alcohol (ethanol: grain or corn based, two carbons) ⚠️ do not drink this, and rubbing alcohol (isopropanol: 3 carbons with one carbon [methanol group] on a side chain. There are longer, more carbons, alcohols and each has differing properties. So, what alcohol and in what concentration, since that effects the amount of water needed, did you use? Also note that methanol and ethanol as purchased by the consumer are highly flammable, caution ⚠️ around energized equipment!
Tried this on PLA. Didn't work at all.
Hi! I'm curious, have you tried Nylon or Carbon Fiber Nylon on your carbon fiber build plate? If yes, how well does nylon adhere to it?
Great!! works great with the FLASHFORGE - BUILD SURFACE STICKER!
was normally almost impossible to detach
Thanks
Which alcohol is used by u sir.
You are the man!!! With everything going on I had to use 80 proof vodka but that's A 40% mix and it worked like a charm!
Gonna try this out, shattered my glass build plate today by accident removing a .25 kg print 😢 so hoping to keep the replacement in good condition
How much did a new plate cost? Can you use any glass? (Like from an old copier/scanner).
It works very well. PLA was sticking very hard to my Ender bed sheet. I put the mix 50/50 in a small eye glass cleaner spray bottle and shake it before use. A couple of minutes soak time and I grab the parts with some spark plug boot pliers that have rubber tips and the parts pop off. I clean the bed with a plastic razor blade tool that I got from Lee Valley so it doesn't scratch the bed sheet. Works really well. I'm making parts for Covid face shields so my Ender 3 is getting a work out:)
I just switched from the textured side of the glass bed that came with my Ender 3 v2 to the plain glass side, and my print was stuck so bad I couldn’t pry it off from any angle. This worked perfectly in SECONDS. Thank you!! No idea why those crackly sounds happen but it sure was satisfying 😂
It is the contraction of plastic and glass as they cool.
This will be a good justification for a bottle of booze in the lab :D Tried the trick on a porous magnetic pad - the print didn't get off as easily as in the video but still with no damage to the pad. Lost one a couple days ago due to a stuck print. Thanks man!
what to do when this doesn't work? lol!
HOLY CRAP IT WORKS. I JUST TRIED IT ON MY TEVO TORNADO!
Be it chemistry or witchcraft, I now have a whole bottle of “uncle Chris’s secret sauce” next to my 3D printer.
Thanks so much for the video Chris! :)
Hi Christoph! Thank you ever so much for this method! We have danced around our new 3D Robox printer trying to remove our fresh-printed models and had no luck - we broke all of them. And finally! Our first printed 3D object in our hands - unbroken! Really -10 sec - and magic happened. Thank you so much!
Rubbing achahal or like beer
I just remove the glass from the heated bed as soon as the print is ready and lay it on my desk. The faster cooling down gives the same effect as what you show here. I hear the crackling noise and it pops off the glass on it's own. When I let the glass on the heated bed and let it cool down slowly, it sticks so well, that it brakes out a piece of glass if I am not careful enough. For that (when forgetting to remove the glass after the print), your method could be a great way to avoid breaking the glass plate.
I'd like to move to a carbon plate, but I did not find a carbon plate that is not heavily overpriced so far.
i do a similar thing
but , i turn the glas around (print down)
and lol ...i simply hold it under some running water
works for me lol
Thanks. It worked. Still was tough getting the print off the bed, but it was impossible before. I could lift the entire printer by the print. I have a heated aluminum bed and I use a glue stick to get adherence. The alcohol/water mixture melted the glue and I think that helped. I'd like to try the freezer trick mentioned below but my bed is attached with 3 screws that level the bed.
Christopher, Thank you sir, your method works wonderful. I know have a small former windex spray bottle with your solution by the printer. As soon as the print is done, spray, wait 10 and out the print comes. No more abusing the pallet. Thank you again.
I print directly to glass without any glue at all. I find all my prints adhere to the bed just fine
thebosun181
That may be the case, but how easy are they to remove?
Thanks man, you saved a 2 days print, I didn't have alcohol so I used perfume and it worked.
does the build plate have to be cold?
Your method failed (no crackling, no removal) using Anycubic PLA on an Anycubic glass bed. Considering the porosity of 3-D (FFD) printed objects, getting them wet isn’t advisable. I washed PETG objects made on a different printer (Prusa, which releases objects so readily upon cooling I can practically blow them off the textured plate) and found that water rapidly wicked into them and slowly oozed out for several days thereafter.
Wow! thats amazing!!!
2 questions: how did you do that starter strip around your print? it looks like the ooze control skirt, but only one layer..?
second, what is the mechanics that enables that to work?
I'm going to try this out just as soon as my replacement ribbon cable arrives today.
1) It’s a setting you can enable for bed adhesion, i believe it’s called a rim or a skirt
2) Capilary action. Water(and alcohol) will naturally wick itself into small crevices such as that between a build plate and a print, and is also how paper towels soak up water. It’s very powerful
You using clips for your carbon fiber is inspiring enough for me to change over to clips again. Double stick tape is just too unreliable man…
I even remove my bed from the freezer and the parts are still as if I used epoxy instead of PLA. Hate the glue stick, but if I don't use it, parts don't stick, even if heating the bed to 60 degrees. At this point I will buy a flexible bed.
How to you get your prints to adhere so well in the fist place? Please do tell.
Step 1 : Hammer the object off.
Step 2 : use Scraper to scratch your whole Base plate without taking the rest of the filament off.
Step 3 : 🤔
Step 4 : Just buy new Base plate.
Step 5 : repeat process 😂
Thanks for the video. Great Job... I have a Tevo Tornado and am only new (day 2). The printer prints well etc... But, removal is an absolute B^&t^h... Is your mix for Alcohol and Water 50/50? If not what mix do you use? Is Isopropyl what you use? if not, What is your mixture. Maybe a silly question (I don't know). I'm new to 3d printing. Thanks again for the video.
50% water, and 50% alcohol I believe.
Thanks
Sadly doesn't work for me :c. I'm using the textured side of the Ender 3 V2 bed and have a important print that's really stuck
I would like to know exactly what alcohol you use? I am fighting so hard with my printer everytime I need to remove my prints.... Help please.
I have a CR10-S Pro V2 with a stock bed, I have constant issues with print sticking too good to the print bed. I am trying this right now.
50% alc and 50% water? Wait, is it something like vodka, just slightly stronger? Have you tested raw vodka?
Does the bed need to heated
Welp I literally took a little maybe .5mm chunk right out of the center of one side of my plate with a razor blade. Will try this next...
I use for my print bed i don’t have a heated one but i use it is glass and i use glue so it sticks. Do you think the alcohol/water will help to take the prints off? Also i subbed
Hello Christoph Laimer
The bed and the plastic were hot at the moment that you apply the liquid solution?
If it is so, what bed temperature is recommended to do it? In order to avoid glass cracking.
Please let me know your knowledge.
Best regards
Rafael
Why does this work? Does it cool and shrink the plastic?
I just got my Ender 3 v2, after printing a part so I could put a Raspberry Pi in to the toolbox opening, the part wouldn't separate from the bed. This saved me so much! Can't thank you enough!
The item in the example is exactly what I printed and was having trouble removing.. what a small internet world
Best advice, my spray bottle was defective but I just daubed it on with a brush, worked a treat
Thank you!! The instructions that came with the printer were wrong. Your advice saved us
Dangerous if your printer is plugged in to the electrical supply - which it is right 🤯🙀
Stupid question I'm sorry....alcohol as in, isopropyl alcohol?
Not working for me. I dont hear the noise at all and using 91% ispropyl
After accidentally putting a small hole in my index finger this morning (I've been using a knife to remove my 3d plates) I suddenly had the urge to figure out a better way of removing PLA prints from the build plate. Thx! Works great and now I don't have to put my blood into my work...
Ohhh man!! U saved me a 46 hours print!! Thank You!! This trick works!!
Simply Fantastic, 50% Alcohol + 50% H2O, does the trick for me. My Creality Ender 6 COREXY has very strong bed adhesion, prints great but the toughest part was to eject the prints. This solution works great, there is a cracking sound and in about 10 seconds it comes off super easy. Well done!
Thank you so much! Worked great (no crackling sound tho :P )
Thanks for your advice. Worked well after about 30 secs. PLA object with brim on a LokBuild surface.
Omg I destroyed a few prints before I watched this, and I literally had half a print stuck because it broke when I tried to remove it and I couldn't get it off. This saved me so much annoyance, time, and the alcohol spray unhinges it so quickly.
I would not want to be wetting things. That means getting water trapped that could take a while to dry. BEST to use a flexible magnetic build plate. Just bend the outer edges toward the center, the print will pop off easily!
Is it better to separate the print from the build plate while the plate is still hot or to let it cool first?
Hi 😊
The link below the video is not working anymore? 😊
This has been very successful for me! Thank you for the video tip!
i have megnetic pad how there remove object im using tpu filament
I know this is old but hopefully you can help. What type of alcohol do you use? Isopropyl? And this should work with the stock Ender 3 v2 bed? Thanks
hello friend very grateful for your video, i would like to tell you my experience so you can tell me what i can do to keep working, i have a longer 4lk hot bed printer and my last print got stuck so bad it did even melt with the teflon layer peeling of and leaving holes in the 2 places the print was placed, i asked for a new plate already, in the meantime how do you suggest i can keep working with this bed ? can i place some tape over it to level the floor? thank you again for your help.
ive got a hole in my hand from a putty knife. im going to try this now!
Tried diluted bio ethanol and pure ethanol. Sadly didn't work.
The alcohol evaporates very quickly causing a "Cooling" effect. Works really nicely. Eliminating the "Freezer" cooling.
Which type of alcohol are you using? Isopropyl or ethanol?
What type of alcohol are you using, is it rubbing or iso?