Adapting the BEST Woodworking Joints for 3D Printing
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Even more connections!
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In the previous video we looked at several different ways to improve the dovetail connection by adapting it and taking advantage of the 3D printing process. In this video, we're going to see if we can create 2 completely new connections which are both inspired by some of the best woodworking connections. We are are taking it even further with the goal to achieve the connection which is the strongest which can handle forces in tension, compression and in torsion.
For this video, I've used the Bambu X1C and the QIDI Q1 Pro just like the last video; the filament was Bambu PETG-CF in Brick Red and in Titan Grey linked below (I receive a small commission if purchased through my link and it helps me continue to make videos like these):
ca.store.bambu...
A good video reference for basic wedge principles:
• Mechanical Engineering...
Fusion Files:
Echo-Lock - drive.google.c...
Drop-Lock - drive.google.c...
If you'd like to see more connections, let me know.
Another way to support this channel indirectly is through my affiliate links (where I receive a small commission). It helps me to continue to provide high-quality content videos. Thank you for your support!
QIDI Q1 PRO - qidi3d.com/pro...
BAMBU PRINTERS - shrsl.com/4aghz
CREALITY PRINTERS - shrsl.com/4aghy
NEW MIC (I bought this)
amzn.to/3vcMKAr - Rode Wireless ME mic (Saved me about 4+ hours/vid)
amzn.to/3NBFvZe - Mag clip (Super handy, but a little pricy)
I like how you added more of your Fusion workflow in this video as well as engineering principles. As a Fusion amateur, I appreciate this and would like to see more of that in the future. Keep up the great work.
I would have done this a while back, I thought that fusion had become paid for everyone... turns out it was just me! I figured with it being paid, that it would be less popular. I'll be including some fusion with every video that deals with design. I have whole bunch of ideas for interesting and useful topics that could help people to get the results they're looking for. I'll be working on improving my presentation method as well so it's clearer and more concise as well as packed with info... that's the goal at least. Thanks for your kind words, I really appreciate it!
You are doing great work. You're a great teacher and communicator. As an engineer wannabe, I learn a lot from the way you think, test and iterate. Your channel is fantastic. Keep going
Do yourself a favor and learn...... anything else. Fusion (and the business practices around) are basically trash compared to any other professional CAD program. Most paid CAD programs are on roughly the same price schedule and don't nickel and dime you to death; if you want something free, Onshape is completely free as long as you don't mind your designs being opensource
@@TheGlitchyCorgi It depends on what you're trying to do. If you want to work with meshes a lot, Fusion isn't great, it get bogged down, Blender is best for that type of work. If you want to do mostly engineering calculations, Fusion can be used, but it's going to be expensive for that module. For 3D printing type designs, Fusion is a good program that can do just about everything you need. my understanding is that it is free for personal use still, correct me if I'm wrong. I have to pay about 30US a month for mine since it has been deemed not for personal use.
@@NeedItMakeIt My statement applies when compared to other engineering CAD programs. Virtually the only people that use it are the ones that learned it in college when it was free and never tried anything else, and they suffer because of it
Step 1: have your printer dialed in!
Interesting joinery!
so true my friend
Calibration for these is important, the material has a bit of give to it, so it's going to go together, I just prefer not to have to use a hammer or vise. The Q1 Pro and the X1C are both my go-to printers to give me the best results with the least amount of trouble. I'm still using my other printers, they tend to be more for things that aren't quite as critical for fit. If there is some interest I can show the process I follow to get a good fit. It could be a pretty short video I'd imagine.
@@NeedItMakeIt We could always print our specific shapes, minus the thickness of some sandpaper, to make adjustments if we really needed to.
Edit: But yes, dialing into micrometer levels of accuracy would benefit a lot of people. Getting horizontal and hole expansion %'s into real world 0.01 mm's is definitely a good skill to have. Better to change clearances in Fusion instead because you're changing the entire scale at that point, right? etc, etc. Rainy day ideas anyway. Cheers.
Figurines are fun but even larger ones need parts to fit together eventually!
Too awesome! I love it when people apply existing ideas to 3D printing in new ways. Not only are you coming up with great solutions, but you will help many people think of more.
P.S. It would be fun to try some of these with a little more clearance and fuzzy skin. It would act like insane velcro, haha.
I'm sure you've thought of this, but it'd be great to see a control sample in the testing video. Having just a 3d printed rod without any joinery could show exactly how much strength is lost or gained with each joint
I really like how, at least from the videos I have seen, you've been going over topics that often are just presented and nothing else. I am mainly referring to how you format your videos in a really easy to follow/replicate manner. So I got to say keep up the good work!
Thank you! I'm trying to put a lot of effort into them in the hopes that the videos are clearer, make more sense and are also at least somewhat entertaining. I'm still working on the style for the walkthroughs, they're a little harder to do and I think I'll have to think about the best way to present them, I need to use my hands somehow while also showing the screen clearly. I'm sure there is some solution out there for that.
I hope you get way more than 100k by 2025. Your videos are some of the best RUclips can offer, thanks for making them!
These videos are prefect for a large format high stress project I’m working on! I like the inclusion of CAD drawing, it makes it easier to recreate even though it isn’t ment to be a step by step tutorial. I’m excited for the final test results!
hands down the best 3d printing channel on RUclips :)
Man! You're awesome! There are so many good channels out there, this is just an amazing thing to hear. I'm still planning on getting better and I'll work as hard as I can in order to provide the best content I can, even if it kills me.
Your drop lock joint exists in woodworking and is called an isoloc joint. You need either a special router jig to cut it or a CNC machine. It's a nice joint because it behaves just like a dovetail in that it only can be assembled or disassembled in one direction, and it has a good mechanical lock when cut with a good fit. Also lots of glue surface area.
You know it does look similar, thanks for pointing it out. I have some plans to try the connections in wood, some are going to be really tough if they're on a curve, the Echo connection is doable with hand-tools for sure, but the Drop Lock with the tapers is not so straight forward. I'll have to think about how it might be possible.
@@NeedItMakeIt for the drop lock with tapered surfaces in wood you could probably use a 3d printed router guide and then use a tapered router bit with either a bearing or follower bushing.
Obviously that limits what taper angle you can get, but I think they sell some pretty shallow taper angle bits.
Just cut each half of the joint from the opposite side of the board, that way the tapers match.
What settings to get the outside walls to look like those with the text? Fuzzy skin? what specific values? Looks super super nice!
Great video series, good designs. Well done.
Im enjoying the joinery videos. Its not something a lot of people think about with 3d printing, but it's really good for printing larger projects. It would be great to see you tie together larger/unusual shaped parts rather than rods as well.
For sure, I think I'd like to create a frame with every type of connection so far, that would be at least a good start, I'm also planning to make some furniture in wood and have it compete against a piece that's 3D printed to see if we can make something that's just as good. That's going to be tough, but I think it's a worthwhile challenge.
Good stuff. I see that the Fusion files are linked in your description. But, I wonder if we could get a PDF of the drawing of the parts. That would help those who don’t have Fusion, as well as those of us who will want to model it ourselves.
Why don’t you put an angle on those connections, like you did with previous videos? Might as well use the advantages of 3d printing.
I prefer the simplicity of the echo lock. Great work
Really like the Echo lock. Would love to see it at a 90 degree. Keep up the great content
Me too, I think it might have the highest potential of any non-screw connection so far. I'll have a follow up video where we can test all of them out to see which connections reign supreme! I'd like to get some ideas from you guys too so we can have some other connections in the mix too.
Very interesting! You should try some of the intricate Japanese woodworking joints.
thanks for these videos man. they are very well done, and super interesting. Drop Lock sound way more professional, stick with that.👍🏻Keep it up!👊🏻
This reminds me of some videos I've seen on Japanese wood working and their fancy joints. I wonder if you could do stuff like this but without bi-directional tapers, then use a center pin to hold it all together. That way it goes together easier but is still firmly fixed.
Great video. I like to make modular objects where you have small parts and steing together a dozen or more, so the joint is really important especially with regards to slipping and slack. Any movement in the joint is multiplied due to the number of joints. I like the dutch joint with a hollow wedge that offers some springiness to hold them together. Obviously not as strong but strong enough for what I need.
Alien fingers is definitely a catchier name
I liked it too, it's maybe not as professional sounding... "Hey Bob, what type of connection are you using?" B: "Oh yeah, I'm using Alien Fingers".... and then silence because they don't know how to respond. Well that's how I picture the conversation going.
This is gold. Keep up the good work!
For the stress analysis, bonded contacts isn't a good choice to represent reality. Sliding with separation would produce more realistic results. Also, an adaptive mesh type would better highlight the high stress areas. Regardless, real world testing is the best and I look forward to watching your next presentation. Excellent work!
Awesome video, thank you!
Cool video …. Yes do some more joints. Also let’s see some Japanese wood working joints
It would be interesting to see joinery like this that uses locking shims like the ones often associated with Japanese joinery
For testing, you'll need to categorize what forces you're pitting your joints against.
It'd be dangerous to only test for tension (pull), if someone uses your ranking to print ladder rungs for standing on (lateral loading).
Good hunting!
Very nice designs. Thanks!
Subscribed!
I definitely like the dovetail plus version better; mostly because it's simpler to make, but it seems a bit more robust as well
Great video, thanks for reading my comment and implementing it! Subscribed!
Slicers & CAD tools really need to make it easy to do things like joins in large parts.
My guess is that the strength of any joint like this in a 3D print will depend mostly on how continuous the tension is in the outer boundary layers as opposed to the inner shapes that will pull mostly on the infill.
I think your echo lock might work well, mostly because the outer wedges are close to the boundary layers. It might be interesting to test different spacing on the outer wedges, and a smaller inner wedge and see if this affects strength.
There’s also four faces that this tension continuity needs to be optimized for….
I do like the drops a lot cause I imagine they would print a lot quicker, having no sharp edges to decelerate for.
I also imagine fewer corners limits stress points.
You got it! That was the thought around the droplet shape, I thought it would give a bit better speed and remove the sharp corners, it's not really adding anything to pull the connection together, but if adhesive is added it adds glue surface area. It needs a bit more work before the show down.
Ty for kg! Technically newtons would be an actual measure of force and not mass, but this is practical if your scale can’t do newtons
This is great! Just a thought, some music would be cool at sections like @10:00
I'm so bad with music, I will have a look and try to add it here and there, still learning all of the little tricks to make a good video, we'll get there eventually!
I like these video I will check the other videos on the channel Thanks!
Just wanted to drop a line and say thank you. Really like your channel and the direction of it.
I think you need to take the Echo Lock to its natural conclusion: An Echo Echo Lock, an Echo Echo Echo Lock.... fractal it up!!! >:3
Great video. Thank you.
your parts look very good. can you explain how you print whithout layer lines? or can you make a video about it?
It would be fun to see this in a 3d printed frame, like the 100 3D printer
Another way to model joints is to model the spliting surface.
Like model whatever surface you like. analyze it to see if it can slide to join.. maybe curve some parts a bit to make it snap in correct place when fitted. Then for tolerances just thicken the surface to a body and uniontrim both parts with this cuting body. Or just split the bodys with this cutting surface and add offest to create tolerances.. this way may be harder to offset individual surfaces but it leaves more room to adjust tolerances as some dimensions need different tolerances.
I use Catia and modelling a surface in GSD is easy peasy.. cutting bodies in Part Design with that GSD surface is also trivial. (sure an overkill of engineering program with 4-5 figures price.. i have it, i teach it, i use it).
It would be great to have echo lock as feature in Prusa/Orca Slicer.
Can you make an STL that can be used as a subtraction boolean object? This would be handy as one could import it into a slicer as a negative to cut their parts up.
What if you made the fingers shorter in the Drop Lock? In woodworking, longer fingers = more glue surface, but if it’s just a compression fit, wouldn’t it be better to keep the compression close to the part? Like lifting a heavy object close to the body? Essentially, you could apply more force to the fulcrum, like a heavier person staying close to the trunk if you’re standing on a limb. (I’m not sure if I’m explaining this adequately…)
I wonder if the round features of the drop lock are better long term, because with the sharp corners of the other dovetails you can get more concentrated stress points in the corners.
I really liked the style of the dovetail that was on an arc; have you tried that with this style of dovetail?
What type of filament are you using for these test pieces? I have found Carbon fiber PLA very strong, relatively inexpensive and producing amazingly good looking surface finishes.
I've made the echo lock before, every time I do, the clearances seem to not be right, then I spend several hours cleaning them to fit ;-;. Make sure to dial in your settings and do test prints everyone!
Thank You for the video. I don't really know CAD - though I'm hoping to find the time to learn it in the future. What I'm most curious about with these video's is - your print quality is amazing for the most part. I'm assuming you're using glass fiber or CF filament but I wonder if you're using fuzzy skin at all and if so - if you have a video or would share your fuzzy skin settings? Thank You again.
Can you also check how much the length of the part changes due to the dovetails
I agree that the dove lock looks much more stable. If the fingers were dovetails of the same size, I believe they'd have more surface area, which kinda takes the crowning point away from having round fingers. The fundamentals of both of these designs are the same, you're just playing with frequency and depth of tabs, corner shape, and symmetry. It's a very scientific way of searching out the perfect joint, keep the variables small and controllable. I have a more abstract wonder, though.. could you make an interlocking joint based on a scutoid?
I love your videos!! Very thorough and interesting joints. Keep up the great content! At 5:21 you are showing the offset amount at .05 mm but only on the grey side of the joint. Is this offset done on the red side of the joint as well? Do you also fillet the outer corners/edges of the joint faces with .3 mm? Also, what size chamfer do you use on the outside edges of the whole part?
Cool! Really helpful, thank you so much
Im new to 3D printing and have no idea where to start love your videos tho
No problem. Well, I'd start with something that you need. Download Fusion unless you have it already, I think it's still free unless you use it for a business and try to create something small and simple to begin with. If you have an enclosed printer, you can probably print with ABS, but PETG and PLA are a bit easier to work with. I made the mistake of starting with ABS on an open frame printer about 5 years ago, and it was a nightmare to try to make it work because of how ABS reacts to cooling. I moved to PETG and that was the end of those problems.
I really enjoy these videos, specially because I'm just getting started and have a bunch of things that I want to print that are outside of printer build area.
My Initial thought is that these connections have a base that is too thing and therefore can't withstand forces pulling away at it that well, so best to keep it for compression forces. I only print in PLA and it doesn't like tugging or lateral forces that much, compression is mostly fine as long as I'm not putting dumbbell on it I guess.
Are these concerns valid? Could I make a frame out of these to hang stuff from it that is under 10-15 kg load?
I think most of your joints will be much stronger than the parts themselves.
Mainly because the parts are somewhat hollow, while the joints have higher density of outlines, and they double up.
PS: I still love that filament you are using :)
I think this is a demonstration though, in real prints it may be that he uses different infills wall thickness etc
How are the walls of such high quality?
You use fuzzy skin on your prints right?
Is there a way to deactivate it in certain areas?
Like at the joint it would be beneficial so the tolerances add up again or is the fuzzy skin not protruding as much as I think?
I haven’t watched yet but some software allows you to change how it prints so it only fills on the inside (the walls will be more accurate to model) so that could be used to help tolerances
It’s called on one program Cura slicing tolerance with the options being exclusive inclusive and middle. It allows you to choose whether it aims to be right on the line, right within the line or right outside the line
Clicked like and subscribed
Awesome, thank you so much! The last month has been just incredible, I'm going to push hard to get back to 2 videos / week, its tough, but at least 1 as a minimum. I have a lot more ideas for videos and you guys have a lot of really good ideas too so we'll put them all together to see what we can come up with, it should be cool!
I really like the echo lock and may use it in future. btw what are your fuzzy skin settings? i need to try it out and experiment but yours look really nice
I like the Echo Lock too, the more I think about it, the more I like it. I can't take much credit for the looks, it's the material in this case. I'm using PETG-CF, and it produces that really nice matte and slightly rough finish, it also helps to hide any layer lines too. I've used 0.16mm LH on these which does help a little bit as well.
do you have one for joining 2 thing walls? like 3mm thin?
heh alien fingers is fun. some folks saying drip instead of drop, which i kinda like cuz every time i hear drop lock i assume there is some reference to a drop functionality (drop forge or drop on the floor or drop a sag), but then i see it and i get it. but then drip i might assume some plumbing function. naming things can be hard 😛
Nice, I like your logic on that. The drop was supposed to be a water droplet, but then they also are "dropped together". I have one more video coming out tomorrow on connections and then I'm finally ready to test them all out to see which one(s) are the best.
@@NeedItMakeIt yep looking forward to that. great work Mike, thank you! ps i envy ur fusion skills.
Commenting to propagate more of this content
It would be good if you could somehow use generative design or topology optimisation on your joints and see what the computer comes up with.
I just started the free trial of the simulation module in fusion, but I need to take some time to learn it properly to understand it better, but I think there probably is a best type of connection for each plastic based on their individual characteristics. Fusion seems to think that the plastic will stretch, but the connection will just continue to develop stresses without opening up, that's not the case in reality, and we're going to test that in one of the upcoming videos.
Surely it should be measured in newtons?
What is the app that shows the stress on the joint at 10:40 ?
As you are 3d printing, so complex geometry isn't a problem, how about having T shaped fingers interlocking so joint rotation is less of an issue.
How about those joints, but across a diagonal cut.
Enjoy your contract ! 🔥
Ah man ove just started working with fusion ( for fun) and you make it look so simple 😂
I can't even figure out how to get holes lined up properly. ( Attempting to design a load bearing handle ) Even sketching out the form to extrude didnt seem to work. Couldnt ergo grip style waves to draw at all.
I can certainly venture down the path of the how-to's in Fusion. I wanted to come up with a more interactive method of doing it, watching a screen capture isn't good enough IMO.
@@NeedItMakeIt I would also like to see more Fusion content. Not as much tutorial just more of a "how I do it" in relation to the designs you are doing. Your content is very good!!
I prefer Drop lock for the name ;)
Incorporate clips into the 3d print. They don't just need to be extrusion shapes
i would prefer waterdrop instead of alienfinger or droplock :D
I think your finger joints would be better if you alternated the lengths of the fingers. IE make the middle finger longer. The bulges of the side fingers would then correspond to a relatively thick portion of the opposing side rather than make 3 thin portions that are all in the same plane.
I think so too, and could the fingers become shorter as they approach the edges as well I wonder. It has some potential I think, and these being small doesn't help. Too bad we can't share sketches here, it's a bit annoying to have to describe everything.
I think you need to get away from the idea of a dove tail and move toward jagged teeth from both sides. The idea in woodworking was to create a connection that could be, at least somewhat, easy to create with a chisel or a saw. With 3D printing, you're not limited to that shape. I like the echo lock, but you could make it stronger by extending the little black tabs farther into the red block and using some right angles and reverse acute angles. I'm thinking of a tree limb saw blade. Use several across the connecting face that extend from both the red to the black and black to the red. The teeth need to be big enough to be strong but small enough to put several across the face.
Can you do a quick sketch and email it over? I'd like to understand your idea a bit more! Needitmakeit@gmail.com
@@NeedItMakeIt Maybe. So I started to draw with pen and paper. But I'm not an artist. So I moved to FreeCAD. And you (at least I) can't draw and not slice and print. So I sliced and printed and my parts don't fit together. I guess that wasn't a surprise ... or at least shouldn't have been. 🙂When does a plan ever come together the first time?
I am still not a fan in general, of this type of joints. They are very filament and printer dependent. That being said, in general, there is a lot of wisdom in the gaining strength through counter forces, that apply to these joints. Just as a heads up, on my MKIII i need to print infill super slow for PETG, for the infill to be strong. For PETG, the tolerances on that printer, is super important, for the stuff you do here, and it is wildly speed dependent. Since I mainly print using PETG, I have actually stopped using tracks or joints like you do here, due to the insane tailoring needed for each and every printer and filament. It just don't seem universal. If you find a great joint, it would be super interesting, if you also had a universal and easy to apply adjustment for tolerance.
Tolerances are a real pain. I seem to get different joint tightness depending on layer height, speed and filament (different PLA). I think I've got it worked out and change one of the variables and it all goes to cock 😄
God way to print larger models.
People wanted kilograms-force? Not Newtons?
ASMR
now make a table top out of it
Just embrace the balding, go for the full shaved head 👍
What?! I'm balding???!!
Why all metric?
😢 no, not kilograms, pounds !
I just can't win, I think I'll have to just have both or dub over it for a metric and imperial version of each my my videos. That would be pretty funny. I'll dub my own video, maybe an accent too while I'm at it. In Canada, we use both, there is no one standard, even in construction we have Commercial work which is all in Metric and Residential work is in imperial. I speak in both now and it's become normal, so apologies I'll figure something out for the next videos.
@@NeedItMakeIt - it's all good !! you win with every video you make ! Yeah, south of your border we just use imperial measurements .... and as the old fart that I am at nearly 65, it's tough to teach an old dog new tricks .... I was a product designer for over 35 years in the imperial world, and even though we included dual dimensioning on our drawings I never really wanted to learn the metric system ! However since retiring and 3D printing as a hobby, I have found the metric system is actually pretty easy. At least the math part of it - the visualization is much more difficult, so "Alexa, what is 37mm ? 37mm is about 1.4 inches" comes in handy !! Weights - kg, etc are a whole nother game... no idea ! I have seen some channels that will just add a small graphic in the lower left with the equivalent metric value when speaking in imperial measurements ! That would work ! And even if you don't do anything different, thanks for sharing !!
When you start with subscriber statistics before you even get into the content you lose me. Earn me as a subscriber, don't beg for it. Stopped at 0:35. Was very interested in your content. Not anymore.
Sorry to hear that. What I will say that I will tell you what the deal is with no ulterior motives or manipulation; if you want honesty, I'm your man, if you prefer to be manipulated without realizing it, you're welcome to look elsewhere. I hope you have a great day and life if I do not hear from you again.
The Drop Lock joint is definitely intended to maximize contact area and be glued.
More generaly speaking, woodworking joints are designed to mitigate 2 very specific issues:
- anisotropic strength of wood fibers: wood has its strength in one dimension only, whereas 3D print has two (XY plane)
- anisotropic distortion / warp due to woods' sensitivity to moisture
Woodworking joints are cool as f, but 3D printing it a different process.
Each has its own perks and losses
Just wanted to say that I am really, really enjoying your stuff. I have been kind of obsessed with the idea of combining woodworking with 3D printing (with wood filament, no less) and have been learning tons. Thanks for all you're doing.
Would love it if you tested each joints maximum breaking load from both angles of stress!! Push it till they snap and measure the forces. We would be able to see which joints would be suitable for what jobs. Thanks for sharing your great work! Keep it up!
That is coming! I wanted to collect as many ideas and have them prepped and then we'll have an ULTIMATE face-off, Travolta/Cage style. I have a feeling that a screw and connection combination will be the best overall, it's hard to say for sure. Also a connection like this which uses adhesive would make for a very strong connection too. I have a lot of ideas for follow up videos and it's interesting and I hope at least a little bit useful.
like to see each joint make a cube that if scaled could be sat on
Drip lock (or Drop lock)...looks like a drop of water or melted plastic
The Echo lock looks like a pretty tough lock
Keep em coming!!!!
Looks great, the first dovetail you made in the other video with the scarf joint seems to have a lot more surface area for the joint to succeed. Wonder if you made the echo lock with the same scarf angle if it would perform better than the original dovetail.
This has been the one of the strongest connections I've seen in the Internet yet. Thank you for sharing your knowledge to the World
Thank you very much, and I think we've only just begun! I'm hoping that together we can put all of our heads together and crowd-source the best ideas. I don't know for sure where this will end up, but I think we're onto something and I hope it opens up some opportunities for 3D printing larger parts and objects, and maybe gives people some ideas. Lots and lots more to come my friend, thank you so much for the kind word and support!
@@NeedItMakeIt we all thank you for content creators like you to share knowledge.
Did you use fuzzy skin to get that nice texture on the walls of the print? What settings did you use? It looks great.
great video, what was your fuzzy skin setting ?
Maybe alongside thanking subscribers and Patreon supporters you should also thank the RUclips algorithm. Seems it’s been helping out quite a lot in the last few weeks
These are great! I've got to try these in ny projects. I appreciate you've shown how to create then in fusion 360. Thanks!
First like!
With plastic you really need to rethink these..its not wood. Plastic has sprin, bounce and flex in it. You need to think parts that snap together or click into one another. Unless ur goal is to make wood type joints. When u do setup a test I hope they lenghts will be the theoretical size of ur build plate extended to double that length. Those shorts lengths have no leverage and one can just print a single piece.
Cool! I'm eager to see the strength test! For a well designed system you will be ultimately limited by the pulling surface at the neck
This has me wondering about joints for mixed materials. What if you want to join a PETG print to a wooden plank or dowel?
From what you've demonstrated, it's clear there are woodworking joins you could use that don't require the unique abilities of 3D printing. But maybe there's also something clever you could do with an asymmetrical design, where the printed side would take advantage of what you can do with the printer's additive process while still leaving the wooden side easy to craft with traditional subtractive tools.