Once you connect the intermediate shaft to the steering wheel and the steering box, put in the two bolts and then turn the steering wheel 90 degrees to expose the threaded end of the bolt under the steering wheel. Then you can use a ratchet to tighten the nut under the steering column.
Perfectly laid out video explaining how to replace these parts! The Drive By Wire trucks will need the pedal mounting bracket removed to get the shaft out. It's just 5, 10mm headed bolts and once out of the way it makes quick work of getting the shaft out. This job was
If you want to make this job as painless as possible, remove the driver's seat (two bolts, two nuts, one conenctor), and then remove the accelerator pedal (2 - 12MM and 3 10MM, one connector). This gives you all the room you need to remove the old steering column bearing and install a new one. Lay a blanket down over where the seat goes for extra comfort.
I fixed my rattling noise with a zip tie. I have the original white plastic part. It was rattling inside the metal tube so I zip tied it to the bracket right next to it. The constant tension stopped the noise!
Best video on replacing these parts. I just changed my steering wheel bearing and the shaft. Everything went in like butter. For the steering wheel bearing I lubed the hell out of it with silicone paste commonly used to lube o rings. Went in easy, though I still wrestled it for about 10 mins. After that was installed, I then lubed the female portion of the bottom shaft with red grease I use on my tractor and the new intermediate shaft went in even easier. II did have my front seat taken off and gas pedal unscrewed and out of the way on my 2004 Silverado 1500. This made things a whole lot easier. Overall, i spent about 20 mins not counting the time it took me to remove the front seat. Thanks for an awesome video👍🏻👍🏻
Unless the music was intended to cover up any swearing, you can do without it. Otherwise, you have the best video on RUclips regarding this sterring problem. Very in detail. Now I'm ready to tackle mine. Thanks a bunch!!
If your working on a duramax, take the inner plastic wheel well out and it’ll expose the steering shaft from the side. The plumbing for the turbo and stuff are in the way if you try tackling it from above.
While installing the new bearing, if you put a long bolt thru the steering shaft hole that holds the intermediate shaft in place you can pry against that and the bearing will slide right into place.
This is a great video I'm going to replace my intermediate steering shaft in my 2000 GMC Savana van 3500 I've done plenty intermediate shafts but this was well video was will explain and give me ideas on how I can take care of my repair a quicker way thanks again
For those with Duramax trucks there is a boost pipe that makes it tougher from under the hood. Mine is lifted and I pulled out the fender well and access was SILLY easy
Thanks! Your video made this simple. I used a 1" closed end wrench as Gary Moore had suggested to seat the bearing, that also worked amazing! Thanks to you both.
FYI, If you align the steering wheel turned 90 from straight to begin with, so that the bolts at the upper and lower connections are accessible vertically, then hold it there firmly with your seat belt, you don't have to fuss with a wrench and can remove / replace the bolts more easily using a ratchet and socket.
Thanks for the video. Just changed the Dorman shaft on my 2002 Tahoe. All went without any problem. I was expecting problem with inserting the new shaft into the lower shaft but with the help of my friend I managed to do that pretty easy. The only thing is that I do not have the Torque wrench, so I hand tightened it and will ask my fellow mechanic to tighten it asap. Cheers!
Great directions. Performed this job on a 2006 Silverado. The only thing is that I could not get the new sleave with the bearings on so I put the new bearings into the old sleeve and it slipped on perfectly. The clunk is gone. thanks great video
Thanks for the video, very detailed and professional. I changed the bearing in my 2003 Z71 Chevy Tahoe after watching the video and the clocking sound is gone, thanks .
watched this video today....great info. I going to be taking my seat out for other reasons and do the bearing then. Just have to figure out a way to hold the steering wheel with no seat belt!! Great video thanks!
Well done video, those are hard camera angles. I see a lot of people replace the shaft and the bearing. For me, I did just the bearing only and it took care of it for me. No more CLUNK! :-)
Yo. Thanks for making this vid. I did this repair last night and it was easy after watching you. Undo the connection in the engine compartment first. Then turn the wheel 90 degrees to remove the nut in the passenger compartment.
Thanks for the overview. However, you made this repair more complicated than necessary. Tip: turn the wheel to where both the fasteners are easily accessed, loosen until finger tight, and then turn the wheel straight and lock in place. No need to wrestle with obstructions on initial fastener loosening. I was able to do complete repair in half hour.
Two things I feel would be helpful if you have someone to lend you a hand. Instead of placing the steering wheel in the centered position when removing the bolt and nut under the dash, turn the wheel 90 degrees. this lets you access the nut using a socket wrench for both removal and install. It also makes it a whole lot easier to reinstall the nut. Remove the three nuts that hold the upper steering shaft boot and remove the boot and the shaft through the engine compartment. This gives you easy access to the bearing assembly when attempting to reinstall it. Once you slide the assembly in as far as possible by hand, use a 18" piece of 1/2" wood doweling and a rubber hammer to tape the bearing assembly in. One person holds the dowel and does the tapping while the other holds the assembly in its correct position and moves the dowel around the housing between taps.
Thank u so much for the vid just did mine on my 05 Tahoe it had the Stabilitrak steering wheel sensor right behind the green piece so I just kind of pryed it off with the bearing also and then when I put on the new bearing I cracked it a little bit so hopefully it doesn't make a big problem later on but all is well now steering is tight thanks again for the great video tutorial
Just a note, the shaft you removed is actually the upgraded Borgeson (sp?). Blue bushing/bearing is the OEM. So someone did the service you did earlier and used the upgraded steering shaft but some no-name bearing. So you upgraded the bearing and downgraded the steering shaft (but the U-joint on the steering shaft looks 100% the same on upgraded and new). BTW, your video saved me easily an hour of struggling to get it all apart. Thank you for posting.
@@GR-uk5ou The issue is with the shaft. When he does a side by side comparison, the old shaft has a tube isolator whereas the new shady is a solid u-joint (no isolation). He explains how there's some play when he rotates only the shaft. This means that the rubber isolation has degraded and so now you have that loose steering feel. Isolators are added to the steering system to reduce the road bumpiness feedback felt by the driver.
The bearing/ plastic bushing didn't look broken but it's still a good idea to replace it. When that breaks, you'll feel chucking on the steering column end.
*First Thing* to do when working underneath the dash is fold a strip of Gorilla Tape over the razor sharp edges on any brackets you have to work up against!!! Thanks For The Video!
success, truck drives a hell of alot better. bearing wasnt such a pain in the ass this time. took about 15-20 min of swearing and i ended up cracking the plastic a tiny bit.
Before you do anything, take cover off top of steering column, where the red flasher button is, and then start the truck and turn the wheel until you see a T-25 torx head screw. Probably loose? Turn wheel other direction until you see another T-25 torx head screw. Mine were just about to fall out. It’s the tilt steering joint. Good luck.
Every video I see, you guys just leisurely push that intermediate shaft out of the way. Not me. Mine wouldn't budge. Holy carp is it a pita if it doesn't easily move.
some parts diagrams show that special bolt (with the sidewall to prevent turning) as a regular bolt. Other show the nut having that sidewall on it. Yet others, like mine, show a regular bolt and regular nut. So odd. Great video, thanx
My new shaft would not fit and my new steering bearing would not fit. I ended up honing the shaft at both ends to a glass finish(I have a knife sharpening business which helped) and even then it took great effort to get it on. The bearing would not go on at all, after an hour I put the old one back on to get the truck running. This job was on a 2007 Silverado Classic, Not much room under the dash.
Should have loosened the inside bolt first with the nut facing down. Leaving the bolt intact. Then straighten out the wheel and loosen the outside bolt. That way you can use a ratchet and help prevent you from cutting yourself.
I just watched your video and I congratulate you it is what I was looking for. I have a question the nut by the bearing is torque as the one on the lower side at 35 ft-lb? thanks a lot for your really good explanation on this project. I hope I get a respond.
First of all thank you very much for your video but one question I have is could you not reposition the steering wheel so the shaft nut under the dash would be easier accessible?
After an hour of trying to put the Dorman piece in, I couldn't get it the last 3/4 inch. So I came up with a plan to use a deep socket (30mm) as a ram to press it on the rest of the way. I didn't need to use a hammer or anything else, just tap the part with the socket. If you do this, use a socket large enough that if is putting force on the outer rim of NEAR the bearing and not the bearing itself. Had it installed in a couple minutes.
Good video.I used a large wrench nut and a hammer, to get the bearing from the engine bay into the steering shaft, but you need a friend to hold the bearing from inside.
I just watched how you replaced the bearing for the steering shaft, and since you were there you adjusted the gear box, and so can you say WHY you had to do that ? please does that take away any lose movement on the steering wheel ? and is that to be done when the pitman bracket that connect to the ball joint underneath is replaced ? I will look for your reply on your next input. Thank you every thing else well explained
I posted the videos in reverse order of what you should do. First check the pitman arm and tie rods for looseness and wear. Then check the steering shaft and bearing, then tighten the steering box adjustment. I did all this becuse the steering was loose and sloppy.
thank you for the video, can you tell me once these parts are replaced does it fail again? also how can you tell it has been replaced ? thanks in advance,
Mine didn't fail again but results may vary...I'm not sure how to tell if these have been replaced but if the parts are worn things will be loose and may make clunking noises
old video... but you think this could me my problem? my steering wheel pulls back and wiggles forward and backwards upon acceleration.. every bump makes it jiggle too, feels like it's gonna fall in my lap
@@SevenFortyOne I can fix it.. im just trying to figure out what it could be.. it could be the upper shaft or intermediate. sometimes I can grab the shaft under the hood and wiggle it side to side.. but other times it'll be tight. that bearing on the intermediate shaft that you changed.. that I can grab and slide up and down
What could cause your steering wheel to be really loose and have a lot of play in it or it will cause it to move all the way up and all the way down all the way to the left and all the way to the right?????
Nice work buddy. How long did this job take you? I have some slop in the steering on my 02 Tahoe 190K miles and recently changed my pitman and Idler arms, of course by referencing your video, it seemed to help a little. My next thing is going to be changing the inner and outer tie rods, if this does not get rid of the slop. This job, steering shaft and bushing, will be next on the list. Sure appreciate all the videos.
Thanks Bud - I appreciate the support and kind words! This job only took 30 to 45 minutes (not counting the extra time due to setting up the camera and such). Good luck with your tahoe!
Once you connect the intermediate shaft to the steering wheel and the steering box, put in the two bolts and then turn the steering wheel 90 degrees to expose the threaded end of the bolt under the steering wheel. Then you can use a ratchet to tighten the nut under the steering column.
Perfectly laid out video explaining how to replace these parts! The Drive By Wire trucks will need the pedal mounting bracket removed to get the shaft out. It's just 5, 10mm headed bolts and once out of the way it makes quick work of getting the shaft out. This job was
If you want to make this job as painless as possible, remove the driver's seat (two bolts, two nuts, one conenctor), and then remove the accelerator pedal (2 - 12MM and 3 10MM, one connector). This gives you all the room you need to remove the old steering column bearing and install a new one. Lay a blanket down over where the seat goes for extra comfort.
GM had a recall in those in 02 or 03. They just packed them with heavy grease instead of replacing it . Good video. thanks.
I fixed my rattling noise with a zip tie. I have the original white plastic part. It was rattling inside the metal tube so I zip tied it to the bracket right next to it. The constant tension stopped the noise!
Best video on replacing these parts. I just changed my steering wheel bearing and the shaft. Everything went in like butter. For the steering wheel bearing I lubed the hell out of it with silicone paste commonly used to lube o rings. Went in easy, though I still wrestled it for about 10 mins. After that was installed, I then lubed the female portion of the bottom shaft with red grease I use on my tractor and the new intermediate shaft went in even easier. II did have my front seat taken off and gas pedal unscrewed and out of the way on my 2004 Silverado 1500. This made things a whole lot easier. Overall, i spent about 20 mins not counting the time it took me to remove the front seat. Thanks for an awesome video👍🏻👍🏻
Unless the music was intended to cover up any swearing, you can do without it. Otherwise, you have the best video on RUclips regarding this sterring problem. Very in detail. Now I'm ready to tackle mine. Thanks a bunch!!
Don't forget to unplug your battery and leave it for 15 minutes before you work on this part, You are Working really close to the airbag.
Nonsense, if you’re that worried just unplug both cables and hold the cables together for one minute
Very helpful video man. I sprayed the crap out of that shaft with WD40 and the bearing was MUCH easier to put in
If your working on a duramax, take the inner plastic wheel well out and it’ll expose the steering shaft from the side. The plumbing for the turbo and stuff are in the way if you try tackling it from above.
Very well explained and worked through. I need to do this on my truck and this helps greatly.
While installing the new bearing, if you put a long bolt thru the steering shaft hole that holds the intermediate shaft in place you can pry against that and the bearing will slide right into place.
Great tip! Thanks!
I’m about to do this on my 04 Yukon XL. This has been the best DIY video I’ve seen for this. If you still own this vehicle is the clunk still gone.
I sold it 2 years ago but upto that point it was quiet
This is a great video I'm going to replace my intermediate steering shaft in my 2000 GMC Savana van 3500 I've done plenty intermediate shafts but this was well video was will explain and give me ideas on how I can take care of my repair a quicker way thanks again
Got to do this myself. Thank you for showing some difficulty that can make you cus. Great video.👍👍👍👍😄
Thanks for the information, I already learned a few tricks to make this job a lot easier by watching your video
For those with Duramax trucks there is a boost pipe that makes it tougher from under the hood. Mine is lifted and I pulled out the fender well and access was SILLY easy
facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10156965056287974&set=pcb.2383878388565410&type=3&theater&ifg=1
hopefully pic link works for ya....
Did mine on my 99 gmc Sierra what a difference. No more clunking, quite as could be...So happy with results..
How
Thanks! Your video made this simple. I used a 1" closed end wrench as Gary Moore had suggested to seat the bearing, that also worked amazing! Thanks to you both.
I learned something today, thank you. And oh yah this is for educational purposes only I didn’t forget!
FYI, If you align the steering wheel turned 90 from straight to begin with, so that the bolts at the upper and lower connections are accessible vertically, then hold it there firmly with your seat belt, you don't have to fuss with a wrench and can remove / replace the bolts more easily using a ratchet and socket.
Thanks for the video. Just changed the Dorman shaft on my 2002 Tahoe. All went without any problem. I was expecting problem with inserting the new shaft into the lower shaft but with the help of my friend I managed to do that pretty easy. The only thing is that I do not have the Torque wrench, so I hand tightened it and will ask my fellow mechanic to tighten it asap. Cheers!
Great directions. Performed this job on a 2006 Silverado. The only thing is that I could not get the new sleave with the bearings on so I put the new bearings into the old sleeve and it slipped on perfectly. The clunk is gone. thanks great video
Thanks for the video, very detailed and professional. I changed the bearing in my 2003 Z71 Chevy Tahoe after watching the video and the clocking sound is gone, thanks .
I wanted to say thank you.
I just bought 04 2500HD it has this exact problem 197436 miles.
Good video
I found that putting the new carrier bearing under a light bulb for 20 minutes made installation easier.
watched this video today....great info. I going to be taking my seat out for other reasons and do the bearing then. Just have to figure out a way to hold the steering wheel with no seat belt!! Great video thanks!
Well done video, those are hard camera angles. I see a lot of people replace the shaft and the bearing. For me, I did just the bearing only and it took care of it for me. No more CLUNK! :-)
Yo. Thanks for making this vid. I did this repair last night and it was easy after watching you. Undo the connection in the engine compartment first. Then turn the wheel 90 degrees to remove the nut in the passenger compartment.
Great video, definitely my symptoms. Your camera angles and views are helpful. It looks easy enough to do at home, thanks!
Thanks for the overview. However, you made this repair more complicated than necessary. Tip: turn the wheel to where both the fasteners are easily accessed, loosen until finger tight, and then turn the wheel straight and lock in place. No need to wrestle with obstructions on initial fastener loosening. I was able to do complete repair in half hour.
You are the Man and thanks for all the info. Enjoy your time off😀😀
Good instruction video. Hope that driver's seat gets repaired ✌😀
Two things I feel would be helpful if you have someone to lend you a hand.
Instead of placing the steering wheel in the centered position when removing the bolt and nut under the dash, turn the wheel 90 degrees. this lets you access the nut using a socket wrench for both removal and install. It also makes it a whole lot easier to reinstall the nut.
Remove the three nuts that hold the upper steering shaft boot and remove the boot and the shaft through the engine compartment. This gives you easy access to the bearing assembly when attempting to reinstall it. Once you slide the assembly in as far as possible by hand, use a 18" piece of 1/2" wood doweling and a rubber hammer to tape the bearing assembly in. One person holds the dowel and does the tapping while the other holds the assembly in its correct position and moves the dowel around the housing between taps.
Thank you!
Thanks! Excellent Video! Took Me An Hour To change mine all thanks to your video!!!!
Thanks brother best video on here by far!!
Thank you so much for your skilled explanation and filming.
Glad this helped!
Not an easy job. This video helped me tremendously. Very much appreciated!
Thank u so much for the vid just did mine on my 05 Tahoe it had the Stabilitrak steering wheel sensor right behind the green piece so I just kind of pryed it off with the bearing also and then when I put on the new bearing I cracked it a little bit so hopefully it doesn't make a big problem later on but all is well now steering is tight thanks again for the great video tutorial
U rock, wish I'd run across this video many dollars ago.
Nice work,and explained step by step thanks ,would be doing the same job on my 04 yukon this week
Just a note, the shaft you removed is actually the upgraded Borgeson (sp?). Blue bushing/bearing is the OEM. So someone did the service you did earlier and used the upgraded steering shaft but some no-name bearing. So you upgraded the bearing and downgraded the steering shaft (but the U-joint on the steering shaft looks 100% the same on upgraded and new).
BTW, your video saved me easily an hour of struggling to get it all apart. Thank you for posting.
so the issue is with the bearing and no the shaft?
@@GR-uk5ou The issue is with the shaft.
When he does a side by side comparison, the old shaft has a tube isolator whereas the new shady is a solid u-joint (no isolation). He explains how there's some play when he rotates only the shaft.
This means that the rubber isolation has degraded and so now you have that loose steering feel.
Isolators are added to the steering system to reduce the road bumpiness feedback felt by the driver.
The bearing/ plastic bushing didn't look broken but it's still a good idea to replace it. When that breaks, you'll feel chucking on the steering column end.
I just ordered it. Thanks! I was pissed after I changed the steering gear box and still had play. Hopefully this fixes it!
Riddle me this... Batman. Did it fix your play in the steering wheel that’s my problem people kept sayin it’s the gear box but I don’t think it is
Did it remove your play??
*First Thing* to do when working underneath the dash is fold a strip of Gorilla Tape over the razor sharp edges on any brackets you have to work up against!!!
Thanks For The Video!
Very helpful, thank you. Best video on the subject I’ve found.
Yup, that's the noise.. thanks for the video amigo
Hehehe, UTUBE definitely save us some money and gain more experience as well. 🤗
I wish there was a video on this for a 93.
Great video@
Should be pretty similar I would think
Great video, well done! Still can’t figure out how u got in there with the camera! 👍😎
wow gj not breaking the new bearing lol. i feel your pain with that god dang thing. much cursing was had when i had to get the new one back in
i just ordered a new bearing and intermediate shaft, as i didn't replace the shaft when i replaced the bearing last year. wish me luck for round 2 lol
success, truck drives a hell of alot better. bearing wasnt such a pain in the ass this time. took about 15-20 min of swearing and i ended up cracking the plastic a tiny bit.
yeah I felt like selling it when i was installing that bearing . lol
Much appreciated for the vid for my 03 Chevrolet Suburban.
Before you do anything, take cover off top of steering column, where the red flasher button is, and then start the truck and turn the wheel until you see a T-25 torx head screw. Probably loose? Turn wheel other direction until you see another T-25 torx head screw.
Mine were just about to fall out. It’s the tilt steering joint.
Good luck.
Every video I see, you guys just leisurely push that intermediate shaft out of the way. Not me. Mine wouldn't budge. Holy carp is it a pita if it doesn't easily move.
some parts diagrams show that special bolt (with the sidewall to prevent turning) as a regular bolt. Other show the nut having that sidewall on it. Yet others, like mine, show a regular bolt and regular nut. So odd. Great video, thanx
My new shaft would not fit and my new steering bearing would not fit. I ended up honing the shaft at both ends to a glass finish(I have a knife sharpening business which helped) and even then it took great effort to get it on. The bearing would not go on at all, after an hour I put the old one back on to get the truck running. This job was on a 2007 Silverado Classic, Not much room under the dash.
The 15 on mine under the dash TIGHT AF ! dnt wanna damage anything trying to turn it
Need to do this on my 04 Yukon Denali as well, thanks for the video!
Should have loosened the inside bolt first with the nut facing down. Leaving the bolt intact. Then straighten out the wheel and loosen the outside bolt. That way you can use a ratchet and help prevent you from cutting yourself.
Thanks for the video. Best one I found so far.
excellent narration . explained very good !
Thank you
I just watched your video and I congratulate you it is what I was looking for. I have a question the nut by the bearing is torque as the one on the lower side at 35 ft-lb? thanks a lot for your really good explanation on this project. I hope I get a respond.
You'll have to check a factory service manual for the correct torque, i don't know what it should be
Amazing video thank you
Oh yes I also used a 15/16 open end wrench to kind of hammer it on had to go buy one of those at AutoZone
Did it my self. Thanks
Very informative. Thanks!
I'm definitely going to try this to my 03 avalanche.
The Little SJ's x
you have a lot of room under the dash. On my silverado the gas pedal makes it very difficult to work down there. You'd think they would be the same
First of all thank you very much for your video but one question I have is could you not reposition the steering wheel so the shaft nut under the dash would be easier accessible?
After an hour of trying to put the Dorman piece in, I couldn't get it the last 3/4 inch. So I came up with a plan to use a deep socket (30mm) as a ram to press it on the rest of the way. I didn't need to use a hammer or anything else, just tap the part with the socket. If you do this, use a socket large enough that if is putting force on the outer rim of NEAR the bearing and not the bearing itself. Had it installed in a couple minutes.
Great vidio Steve really!! Now its time for me to get it done.
Thanks Bill! As you saw, its not too bad of a job to tackle.
Great Great tutorial Sir and music was awesome and in time with your style
Excellent, detailed video !
Rick Sweet 2&
2005 gmc sierra has metal under cab,,can you take it out by eng bay side?
Great job man.
Thanks!
Good video.I used a large wrench nut and a hammer, to get the bearing from the engine bay into the steering shaft, but you need a friend to hold the bearing from inside.
Great video
Thanks for this vid very detailed
My van have the same issues my question is if that part can cause to my stirring weel clock my tired to the left and how much I should be get it fixed
I just watched how you replaced the bearing for the steering shaft, and since you were there you adjusted the gear box,
and so can you say WHY you had to do that ? please does that take away any lose movement on the steering wheel ?
and is that to be done when the pitman bracket that connect to the ball joint underneath is replaced ?
I will look for your reply on your next input. Thank you every thing else well explained
I posted the videos in reverse order of what you should do. First check the pitman arm and tie rods for looseness and wear. Then check the steering shaft and bearing, then tighten the steering box adjustment. I did all this becuse the steering was loose and sloppy.
@@SevenFortyOne 91 s10 steering colunm upper shaft nuckle. Popped off. How do you get it back in. Tilt. That plastic nuckle t thingy
Awsome. Good info
Great video...!
Is one of the problems has to do with the streering wheel not locking???
Thanks so much.
I’m having this problem right now and wondering Will this part fit on my 1999 Cadillac Escalade?? So I can order the right one
You'll have to check with someone else...I have no idea
thank you for the video, can you tell me once these parts are replaced does it fail again? also how can you tell it has been replaced ?
thanks in advance,
Mine didn't fail again but results may vary...I'm not sure how to tell if these have been replaced but if the parts are worn things will be loose and may make clunking noises
Thanks
Then 1 day later with the smaller knuckle the clanking starts again
GMC Sierra pickup when I make a Left turn . and try to straighten out steering slips . and almost went on to I'm coming traffic ? Any ideas thanks
old video... but you think this could me my problem? my steering wheel pulls back and wiggles forward and backwards upon acceleration.. every bump makes it jiggle too, feels like it's gonna fall in my lap
Take your car to a mechanic immediately
@@SevenFortyOne I can fix it.. im just trying to figure out what it could be.. it could be the upper shaft or intermediate. sometimes I can grab the shaft under the hood and wiggle it side to side.. but other times it'll be tight. that bearing on the intermediate shaft that you changed.. that I can grab and slide up and down
What could cause your steering wheel to be really loose and have a lot of play in it or it will cause it to move all the way up and all the way down all the way to the left and all the way to the right?????
How long did it last till noise came back mine lasted about 2 months
It never came back
Is it really necessary to torque it ? I don’t have one of those big ass torque wrenches so what could I do
Nice work buddy. How long did this job take you? I have some slop in the steering on my 02 Tahoe 190K miles and recently changed my pitman and Idler arms, of course by referencing your video, it seemed to help a little. My next thing is going to be changing the inner and outer tie rods, if this does not get rid of the slop. This job, steering shaft and bushing, will be next on the list. Sure appreciate all the videos.
Thanks Bud - I appreciate the support and kind words! This job only took 30 to 45 minutes (not counting the extra time due to setting up the camera and such). Good luck with your tahoe!
Is it safe to drive on a bad steering column bearing?
Good work 👌👍
Thanks!
Nice job!
good video
Great video.
i'm having the same problem so just change the intermediate steering shaft