I’m from Australia. I just wanted to thank you for taking the trouble to make this video … because you’ve just explained to me why my RCD was tripping … our Beko dishwasher has been having trouble draining the water for a while now … I didn’t put two and two together it was the appliance that was tripping the RCD until I noticed it flooding tonight … it’s probably not worth replacing the motor (I’m a mech engineering not an electrical engineer 🤣) as the dishwasher is already 11 years old … thank you again as we were going nuts wondering which appliance was tripping our RCD!
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. They are a very good machine, the trouble is I don't believe that the new ones are built to last nearly as long. My Daughters 2 week old Beko recently filled her kitchen with smoke when it was just a month old.. If you are a mechanical engineer then you can get your screwdriver out....
@@razenby oh my … that’s not good re your daughter’s Beko 😳. Hoping that was at least resolved under warranty! I’m pretty handy working around the home car and motorbike for most things but because our Beko was 12 years old I didn’t think it was worth the money and sense to replace the drain pump. But I do agree the Beko are good machines - I’ve heard big appliance retailers here vouch for them because not many get reports of problems.
Interesting one. There is an interesting phenomenon when trying to work out these common faults in that rarely does anyone seem to get to the bottom of them - and when an engineer does fix it it seem to reoccur in less than a year. At replacement cost of £400 its cheaper than getting a repair person out. Just got a quote from Gaggenau for £260/hr (plus travel time costs?!) for a technician to come out (instant RCD trip on power at plug on). Its built in so i can't get it out by myself to check the connections. User serviceable machines are a thing of the past due to the economics of it.
Shame. It is a travesty because 99% of the parts in the machine are working fine yet it will likely still end up in the skip. Take, make and throw away boys as fast as you can. Export the pollution, energy and health and safety worries to some far-off unregulated land and give yourselves a pat on the back for being green.
@@razenby Yea. People bang on about "right to repair", sustainability, the environment - only a very very very small number of people will even open up an appliance. So their only option is to pay someone to do it. Modern costs of living e.g. transport and so on mean that costs 1/4 of the value of most appliances at a minimum. Factor in a second visit to fit a spare part and it obviously is cheaper to buy a new item with a warranty. Very frustrating
@@razenbyTruest words I’ve read in a long time, my friend. I’ve got to a point with my 6 year-old Samsung Ecobubble where I’ve spent almost £300 trying to deal with an intermittent RCD trip out issue without success, and it is now economically unviable for me to spend any more on the detective work. Sad thing is that it is probably solvable but…….. needs must. At least I feel guilty about it. And at least I tried. Good post, by the way.
2:50 Just FYI, your IR reading on the rubber hose was ~1 Mohm, about 1 million ohms, which isn't conductive. To trip a 30mA RCD, you would need a L to E resistance of about 15 k ohms or lower. This path would have been through the water to earthed metalwork.
Just FYI, do you mean conductivity of a meter point contacts at at ~3 volts DC or the cross sectional area CSA area whole body of the hose at 25V RMS (peak ~350V peak)? A little knowledge can be a very bad thing.....
@@razenby Your meter is set to 250V, which is an insulation resistance test, the result of which is read from the upper scale in megaohms. This is a DC test (as would be a continuity test), so I'm not sure why you bring up RMS, which relates to AC. For a continuity test on the BM12, you should have use the 'ohms+' setting, and read from the middle scale, in ohms. Had you carried out the test on this setting, then the result would have been off the scale.
My Beko dishwasher uses SAME motor/wash pump. Its 7 years old, used up to 4-5 times a day sometimes, usually on long cycles. Its still alive and running 24/7😂
I believe I’m right in saying. Buses have graphite in the rubber tyres to take the static electricity from the lights etc to the ground/earth. Perhaps there is graphite in these hoses also?
I think you are correct, when you think about it it must be true. The hoses are definitely conductive. Synthetic clothing was all the rage in the 60s and I remember on a dry day, walking down a steep hill with a heavy pram full of shopping and my four sisters all hanging onto it to it. I grabbed a railing and discharged the whole shebang through my body with a huge crack, everyone jumped especially me for whom it was a powerful experience. If the pram had conductive tyres....
Thank you for the excelent crash dive video! Since the rotor bearings are disgustingly designed weak point of the whole unit I refused to spend such a money on new motor. More so that on my newer model it's sold only as one unit with a heating element... It is possible to obtain bronze slip sleeve bearings from a specialized bearing company and reseal the stator housing with resin. Problem solved for a couple of pennies. My original bearings lasted exactly 3 years. Shame on you Beko engineers.
Hi Magic Smoke, I could use some advice related to Beko dishwashers and my RCD being tripped please. Your video was really interesting and I'm trying to work out what to do in my case. A week or so ago, it tripped the RCD and we eventually worked out it was the dishwasher. It would do it almost immediately that I flipped the switch for it. So I replaced the fuse in the plug, hoping the would fix it. Everything was fine for a week and now it's gone again. It's an integrated Beko model (DIN15R11) and I'm pretty sure I can now detect a slight burning smell from one of the small circuit boards in the control fascia (there's also a hairline crack in the plastic about 2mm long in the same area. After seeing your video and knowing very little about plumbing or electrics, I'm trying to work out if the conductive piping issue you've found could lead to a burnout in one of the circuit boards? And is the best remedy here a new dishwasher?
The most likely cause of an RCD trip is electrical leakage to ground in the water heating element. These can be just enough to trip the RCD. Often they get worse. You could disconnect the heating element and run it and of the trip doesn't flip then it is the water heater element. Have a look inside for condensation. If you can smell burning then look ate the point where the mains lead enters the unit. Often there is a small filter block that can fail. Another problem is with the mechanism that releases the detergent. If you smell burning then follow your nose and also have a really good look at the connections. Look for discoloration.
Fascinating. Do you think that all the “Players” use this rubber in this way these days? It might explain the laughably short lifespan of so many White-goods appliances today, both at the budget end and high end of the price spectrum. Customers just don’t want to keep throwing good money after bad in trying to locate causes of intermittent tripping faults and end up just binning the appliance and buying a new one. Strikes me that this is a cunning way to build in garaunteed obsolescence on the appliance in double-quick time. Would love to know your thoughts on that. We are always being told that the pump on a washing machine or dishwasher never has anything to do with RCD trips these days. Mmmmm.
It is an odd one. The lousy seal on the pump leaks. Water gets into the windings, current leaks up the rubber pipe to ground and blows the trip. Why not just have a ground wire to the pump motor. The reliability these days is shockingly bad and constitutes and ECO crime. My LG 2004 washer featured in the other video is still going strong.
Who would think it had conductive pipe. I did think the water was the path to ground, but the bearing i was surprised (cheap design). I had a beko washing machine, it was very poor quality and it lasted two weeks and started playing up. They brought a new machine to replace it, that one started playing up a month later. I bought a bosch serie 4 later, not a single fault in 4 years.
No doubt the water conducted some of it to ground but during debugging the pipe was empty and the path was the rubber of the pipe. The rubber isn't just electrically leaky it is actually quite conductive.
Motor shaft seal worn, Water got in bearing causing wear. The wear cause the rotor to foul on housing wearing away the plastic and exposing the stator windings to the water.
My Beko DWD 4310 runs for most of the cycle but trips RCD. I notice that water remains in machine . Could this be the drain pump as opposed to the circulation pump.
It is possible. Most dishwashers drain the drain pump at the start of the cycle before filling - You would think it would trip then atthe start of the cycle... before Best bet it to take the panels off and have a really close look at everything for evidence of leaks... You could disconnect the drain pump. It will still stop as the water isn't drained but if it doesn't trip the RCD then the diagnosis is good.
My beko dishwasher tripped the rcd breaker a few times. It was the stupid floor lamp that got wet a few times if water accidentally dripped on it through the right side hinge gap on the door. The floor lamp stopped working after about a year then if it got splashed it would trip the rcd breaker so I removed the floor lamp part and isolated the cables. No stupid part and no more rcd tripping 👍🏼
Thanks for your helpful video, in my case I believe it is something to do with the door switch. The machine is working perfectly but will sometimes trip the RCD, however if I blow into the door switch/catch it will allow me to flip the RCD back on, if I don't do this it wont allow me to flip the RCD. Have you come across this before? if so which part should I change? Thankyou
Could be ? Sometime other leaking wiring or appliances can leak causing the RCD to become uber sensitive. A plausible cause is moisture/water/damp in the door switch area... Temporarily Disconnect and link the wires to the door switch and see it this fixes the tripping issue...
Not necessarily. With no RCD It would fizz, hydrolyise the windings would dissolve then you would have nasty electrical smell and eventually the pump motor would stop working.. Of course it could also blow the fuse in the mains plug. I would much prefer an earth wire connected to the stator laminated metal part.
Our dishwasher has been tripping like this for months but intermittently looks like this might be the answer. Our dishwasher is 10yrs old so is it cost effective to get someone out to repair it out do you think better to just get a new machine?
I have no idea except to provide leakage to ground because the motor has no supply earth connection. That would only be the case if the water is quite pure else you would expect the water to provide that path, A strange feature indeed.
I ahree. Those ceramic water bearings are usually quite good. There was quite a lot of wear on the steel shaft and the bearing. The DW is about 5 years old.
Great video. That. Explains why I couldn't find a fault on the motor but when I changed the motor it stopped tripping the RCD
thanks.
I’m from Australia. I just wanted to thank you for taking the trouble to make this video … because you’ve just explained to me why my RCD was tripping … our Beko dishwasher has been having trouble draining the water for a while now … I didn’t put two and two together it was the appliance that was tripping the RCD until I noticed it flooding tonight … it’s probably not worth replacing the motor (I’m a mech engineering not an electrical engineer 🤣) as the dishwasher is already 11 years old … thank you again as we were going nuts wondering which appliance was tripping our RCD!
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. They are a very good machine, the trouble is I don't believe that the new ones are built to last nearly as long. My Daughters 2 week old Beko recently filled her kitchen with smoke when it was just a month old.. If you are a mechanical engineer then you can get your screwdriver out....
@@razenby oh my … that’s not good re your daughter’s Beko 😳. Hoping that was at least resolved under warranty! I’m pretty handy working around the home car and motorbike for most things but because our Beko was 12 years old I didn’t think it was worth the money and sense to replace the drain pump. But I do agree the Beko are good machines - I’ve heard big appliance retailers here vouch for them because not many get reports of problems.
Interesting one. There is an interesting phenomenon when trying to work out these common faults in that rarely does anyone seem to get to the bottom of them - and when an engineer does fix it it seem to reoccur in less than a year. At replacement cost of £400 its cheaper than getting a repair person out. Just got a quote from Gaggenau for £260/hr (plus travel time costs?!) for a technician to come out (instant RCD trip on power at plug on). Its built in so i can't get it out by myself to check the connections. User serviceable machines are a thing of the past due to the economics of it.
Shame. It is a travesty because 99% of the parts in the machine are working fine yet it will likely still end up in the skip. Take, make and throw away boys as fast as you can. Export the pollution, energy and health and safety worries to some far-off unregulated land and give yourselves a pat on the back for being green.
@@razenby Yea. People bang on about "right to repair", sustainability, the environment - only a very very very small number of people will even open up an appliance. So their only option is to pay someone to do it. Modern costs of living e.g. transport and so on mean that costs 1/4 of the value of most appliances at a minimum. Factor in a second visit to fit a spare part and it obviously is cheaper to buy a new item with a warranty. Very frustrating
@@razenbyTruest words I’ve read in a long time, my friend. I’ve got to a point with my 6 year-old Samsung Ecobubble where I’ve spent almost £300 trying to deal with an intermittent RCD trip out issue without success, and it is now economically unviable for me to spend any more on the detective work. Sad thing is that it is probably solvable but…….. needs must. At least I feel guilty about it. And at least I tried. Good post, by the way.
2:50 Just FYI, your IR reading on the rubber hose was ~1 Mohm, about 1 million ohms, which isn't conductive. To trip a 30mA RCD, you would need a L to E resistance of about 15 k ohms or lower. This path would have been through the water to earthed metalwork.
Just FYI, do you mean conductivity of a meter point contacts at at ~3 volts DC or the cross sectional area CSA area whole body of the hose at 25V RMS (peak ~350V peak)? A little knowledge can be a very bad thing.....
@@razenby Your meter is set to 250V, which is an insulation resistance test, the result of which is read from the upper scale in megaohms. This is a DC test (as would be a continuity test), so I'm not sure why you bring up RMS, which relates to AC. For a continuity test on the BM12, you should have use the 'ohms+' setting, and read from the middle scale, in ohms. Had you carried out the test on this setting, then the result would have been off the scale.
My Beko dishwasher uses SAME motor/wash pump. Its 7 years old, used up to 4-5 times a day sometimes, usually on long cycles. Its still alive and running 24/7😂
Great news. I expectthe production quality of the components varies from batch to batch.
@@razenby Yep! It did start squealing while washing recently… So I guess I can expect similar situation haha
I believe I’m right in saying. Buses have graphite in the rubber tyres to take the static electricity from the lights etc to the ground/earth. Perhaps there is graphite in these hoses also?
I think you are correct, when you think about it it must be true. The hoses are definitely conductive. Synthetic clothing was all the rage in the 60s and I remember on a dry day, walking down a steep hill with a heavy pram full of shopping and my four sisters all hanging onto it to it. I grabbed a railing and discharged the whole shebang through my body with a huge crack, everyone jumped especially me for whom it was a powerful experience. If the pram had conductive tyres....
Great find 👍🏻🇬🇧
Thanks Jim. It was very intermittent.
Thank you for the excelent crash dive video! Since the rotor bearings are disgustingly designed weak point of the whole unit I refused to spend such a money on new motor. More so that on my newer model it's sold only as one unit with a heating element... It is possible to obtain bronze slip sleeve bearings from a specialized bearing company and reseal the stator housing with resin. Problem solved for a couple of pennies. My original bearings lasted exactly 3 years. Shame on you Beko engineers.
Thanks for watching and for the info. I go to the municipal tip and see all those lovely machines for the crusher. Something has to change.
Hi Magic Smoke, I could use some advice related to Beko dishwashers and my RCD being tripped please. Your video was really interesting and I'm trying to work out what to do in my case. A week or so ago, it tripped the RCD and we eventually worked out it was the dishwasher. It would do it almost immediately that I flipped the switch for it. So I replaced the fuse in the plug, hoping the would fix it. Everything was fine for a week and now it's gone again. It's an integrated Beko model (DIN15R11) and I'm pretty sure I can now detect a slight burning smell from one of the small circuit boards in the control fascia (there's also a hairline crack in the plastic about 2mm long in the same area. After seeing your video and knowing very little about plumbing or electrics, I'm trying to work out if the conductive piping issue you've found could lead to a burnout in one of the circuit boards? And is the best remedy here a new dishwasher?
The most likely cause of an RCD trip is electrical leakage to ground in the water heating element. These can be just enough to trip the RCD. Often they get worse. You could disconnect the heating element and run it and of the trip doesn't flip then it is the water heater element. Have a look inside for condensation. If you can smell burning then look ate the point where the mains lead enters the unit. Often there is a small filter block that can fail. Another problem is with the mechanism that releases the detergent. If you smell burning then follow your nose and also have a really good look at the connections. Look for discoloration.
Fascinating. Do you think that all the “Players” use this rubber in this way these days? It might explain the laughably short lifespan of so many White-goods appliances today, both at the budget end and high end of the price spectrum. Customers just don’t want to keep throwing good money after bad in trying to locate causes of intermittent tripping faults and end up just binning the appliance and buying a new one. Strikes me that this is a cunning way to build in garaunteed obsolescence on the appliance in double-quick time. Would love to know your thoughts on that. We are always being told that the pump on a washing machine or dishwasher never has anything to do with RCD trips these days. Mmmmm.
It is an odd one. The lousy seal on the pump leaks. Water gets into the windings, current leaks up the rubber pipe to ground and blows the trip. Why not just have a ground wire to the pump motor. The reliability these days is shockingly bad and constitutes and ECO crime. My LG 2004 washer featured in the other video is still going strong.
@@razenbyECO crime is dead right, my friend. The big manufacturers of kitchen appliances should hang their heads in shame.
Well done, I like to think I'm good at fault finding but I doubt I would have worked that one out myself.
Took me while....
Who would think it had conductive pipe.
I did think the water was the path to ground, but the bearing i was surprised (cheap design).
I had a beko washing machine, it was very poor quality and it lasted two weeks and started playing up.
They brought a new machine to replace it, that one started playing up a month later.
I bought a bosch serie 4 later, not a single fault in 4 years.
No doubt the water conducted some of it to ground but during debugging the pipe was empty and the path was the rubber of the pipe. The rubber isn't just electrically leaky it is actually quite conductive.
amazing fault finding!
Thanks for watching.
Did you check the door seal?
Motor shaft seal worn, Water got in bearing causing wear. The wear cause the rotor to foul on housing wearing away the plastic and exposing the stator windings to the water.
My Beko DWD 4310 runs for most of the cycle but trips RCD. I notice that water remains in machine . Could this be the drain pump as opposed to the circulation pump.
It is possible. Most dishwashers drain the drain pump at the start of the cycle before filling - You would think it would trip then atthe start of the cycle... before Best bet it to take the panels off and have a really close look at everything for evidence of leaks... You could disconnect the drain pump. It will still stop as the water isn't drained but if it doesn't trip the RCD then the diagnosis is good.
My beko dishwasher tripped the rcd breaker a few times. It was the stupid floor lamp that got wet a few times if water accidentally dripped on it through the right side hinge gap on the door. The floor lamp stopped working after about a year then if it got splashed it would trip the rcd breaker so I removed the floor lamp part and isolated the cables. No stupid part and no more rcd tripping 👍🏼
That's crazy and very useful info. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for your helpful video, in my case I believe it is something to do with the door switch. The machine is working perfectly but will sometimes trip the RCD, however if I blow into the door switch/catch it will allow me to flip the RCD back on, if I don't do this it wont allow me to flip the RCD. Have you come across this before? if so which part should I change? Thankyou
Could be ? Sometime other leaking wiring or appliances can leak causing the RCD to become uber sensitive. A plausible cause is moisture/water/damp in the door switch area... Temporarily Disconnect and link the wires to the door switch and see it this fixes the tripping issue...
So what happens if there is not an RCD and only a fuse. Does it eventually blow the fuse or catch fire?
Not necessarily. With no RCD It would fizz, hydrolyise the windings would dissolve then you would have nasty electrical smell and eventually the pump motor would stop working.. Of course it could also blow the fuse in the mains plug. I would much prefer an earth wire connected to the stator laminated metal part.
Our dishwasher has been tripping like this for months but intermittently looks like this might be the answer. Our dishwasher is 10yrs old so is it cost effective to get someone out to repair it out do you think better to just get a new machine?
They are good machines. Get you screwdrivers out and change the pump??
A conductive rubber hose? I wonder how that speciality was build there... Maybe extra steel inlays because they knew before what would happen :-9
I have no idea except to provide leakage to ground because the motor has no supply earth connection. That would only be the case if the water is quite pure else you would expect the water to provide that path, A strange feature indeed.
what model was it?
I cant remember but this pump is widely used in many BEKO models.
Nice 🎉
Thanks 🤗
I just replaced it and still the RCD is tripping
At what stage in the cycle does it trip?
Could they have made the bearing any smaller. lol.. smh
I ahree. Those ceramic water bearings are usually quite good. There was quite a lot of wear on the steel shaft and the bearing. The DW is about 5 years old.