can't thank these people enough. As a single mum they have helped me fix my Bosch twice now which has cost me $14 au and a bit of time. 12 year old machine still running like new.
Hi, thanks for your comment. It's good to hear that you found our video useful, and are going to try to repair your washing machine yourself and save it from being scrapped!
After being almost crazy with this error I finally figured it out. In my case it was the pin that connects the wire to the carbon brush device. It was a bit loose connection in one of them. I disconnected, then took pliers and made pressure on the pin to make it tighter (not too much) and then connected again and had the feeling of a solid connection! And voila! (I also checked the speed sensor at the end of the engine with a multimeter just in case) Now it's perfect again! Thanks to the video, very professional.
Thanks a lot !! I did exactly as you advised!! Resistance of central pair was infinity/disconnected/open loop,so I replaced the two carbon brushed which the two were half centimeters only! almost touching its wire...washing machine is now functional!! thanks,Yaron
Great guide. On my motor off a Candy CDB 126 I had 6 wires instead of 7. The way I worked through this was firstly tracing the pair for the velocity sensor (2 red wires from the can on the end) 43 ohms [good]. Then I checked the colours from each of the 2 brushes - blue & pink respectively. These measured 4.7 ohms [good]. These confirm the armature windings (the rotating central part) and commutator (copper segments on the end that the brushes are contacting) are all good. Finally there were 2 remaining wires - a black and a grey wire which went inside to the field coils in the motor casing. These measured around 2 ohms [good]. This confirmed the motor is basically OK which means my fault is elsewhere. I have already repaired a couple of broken wires to the dryer heaters so I am checking the wiring from the motor wire plug back to the control board for breaks as these wires are also constantly flexed by the movement of the drum assembly and have possibly become brittle inside.
Excellent and very comprehensive video. This is why youtube is so powerful and genuinely helpful to everyone....of course with the exceptions being the tradesman. lol
My CESET Motor has problem at speed. Firstly thanks to eSpares for an informative video. I found it after fitting a new set of brushes with limited success.
After fitting the new brushes my machine completed a spin cycle and then failed on a wash cycle. Now the motor will turn (with no laundry) at slow speeds, but keeps cutting at high speed as if there’s a loose connection. Having tested the Tacho and Windings everything seems good. I thought the problem might be a start/run capacitor, but these motors don’t seem to require one (guessing because of the field windings). With the absence of a capacitor I decided to investigate the PCB (against even my own better judgement). I thought I’d found the answer when it looked fried with black tracks on the back and a coating on a chip, but all of this blew off to reveal a clean circuit board (apparently dust from belt attracted to electrical current). I did suspect I had found one or two dry solder joints, but I’ve made them good to no avail. Any connectors have been crimped a little tighter and/or blasted with cleaner, which hasn’t helped in the slightest. So, to all that have read this far: - Have you resolved a similar problem and how? - Any ideas on what might be causing the problem or what else I can check? Thanks for any informative replies.
Very good explanation - I don't think I'll bother trying to take the motor out of my Beko though as I think it's the carbon brushes that need replacing as it was sparking and lighting up when I took the back off - you said at the end though that if you find any of these faults then the whole motor needs replacing? You can't just replace the carbon brushes? Probably not worth the time or money to fix if I can get a new one for about £230 anyway
Hello Josh - just watched your excellent video - thanks. I ran the Whirlpool diagnostic which confirmed there's a problem somewhere with the motor. I checked the carbon brushes and they're OK but the sensor on the motor is s/c. Do you know what the effect of this fault would be? Would it prevent the drum from rotating altogether? Thanks in anticipation.
Excellent video, however I just removed my motor from my Hotpoint WDD960P as it keeps tripping the electrics, and on my motor I only have 5 wires, I proceeded to check but the readings are nowhere near what you’re getting, do you have any videos for a hotpoint motor ? Thanks
Thanks fo the video. Our machine topped working ( won't turn on.). I noticed quite some oil pooled underneath. A friend suggested it could be a torn/broken belt. Any advice on how to proceed?
Good demonstration. My motor running but suddenly pulling 2x the current, humming and then shuts down halfway through cycle. Thermal switch I presume. Any idea why it's drawing so much current?
Hi Steve, If you did not take the brushes out to examine them or if they were quite worn by disturbing them they may work for a few washes. However, if this was the problem it is likely it will return.
Yeah, the brush I took out was fine, put it all back together, worked for 5 minutes, then packed up. Ordered new brushes, when I went to fit them, the brush I didn't take out was totally worn away. Lesson learnt, always check both brushes, though was surprised how much worn one was than the other.
Steve Borrett Unusual for one to wear so much more than the other. It may have been sticking a little and the lighter contact may have resulted in it burning away as opposed to normal wear. Glad you sorted at last.
Hi eSpares! is all the front load washing machine motors has the same types of connections? Because i plan to replace the motor of my washing machine from my old LG. thanks and have a great day!
Hi I have a Samsung washing machine when you turn the dial and select a program it doesn’t work do you think it’s a motor problem is it worth changing the whole machine or worth repairing the washing machine?
The speed sensor in my case is reading 140ohms. Does that indicate that it’s faulty? My issue is the machine would fill with water normally but it won’t spin.
very helpful, but can u add how to test the " thermal cut out " inside the motor , after doing all your test everything seemed good .. but 2 purple wires on mine are open circuit.. me thinks this must be the TCO,, pull out the wires and yes , took it apart , stuck small screwdriver under bimetal strip , put all back together , test with lighter , it trips and resets ... do u sell these tco
josh, thanks for a great video. I just have a simple question, what do you set your test meter at, could it be 200-Oms? also, is the cables color cod universal? i mean from one brand to an other
We cannot guarantee the colour code will be the same on all machines but to measure resistance of the motor or coils a low resistance setting (0 - 200) is usually the correct setting.
I have a bush F841QW and it is displaying excessive vibration. But this only happens during a 40 degree or 30 degrees wash cycle and the excessive vibration only starts after about 20 minutes of wash. But once it starts, it continues during the rinse cycle but not during the spin cycle. But it doesn’t do it during the same cycle but at 20 degrees instead of 40 or 30 degrees. I have been studying its behaviour. And after about 20 minutes of a hot wash, it starts to undergo high acceleration from rest which is not normal and it is this that causes the excessive vibration. It was suggested that the cause of the high acceleration from rest is power surge to the motor and is caused by something heating up with time. The question is what is heating up with time and causing the temporary motor power surge? Any advice will greatly appreciated.
Bosch Nexxt 300 washer spinning super fast..... Codes D06, D08, D09, and D11 came up. Is it the speed sensor? If so, where is it located and how do I replace or repair? Is the speed sensor on the motor? Is speed sensor replaceable ? Or do you need to replace whole motor?
Hi iceman382, they are different error codes but are related to the motor except for D06 which is an NTC short circuit, start by testing the motor with a multimeter and you need ENR number to identify the model details.
Hi, I have a hotpoint wma34 that trips the electric when the motor attempts to spin, I check the brushes and they were very worn so I replaced them but still the same... Then I found this video! The speed sensor gives a reading of about 190 ohms... Also if I manually torn the rotor this reading varies a little as I would expect but it also gives a random null or 1 every now and then which seems odd to me... Does this mean I need to replace the whole motor? I also get a reading of 8.1-10ohms on the final test ( the motor windings?) and very high reading if I connect across the brushes... Thanks for any advice given
Hi batfink 132000, when testing for a fault on the motor you are looking for continuity readings to test it, with your fault you are looking for a component that is going down to earth causing the electrics to trip which would normally require a meggar meter to test the components. Does the machine work OK when washing?
@@eSpares it appears to work OK until the motor trys to spin the drum and the it trips the main fuse box... Thanks for replying but I have decided to replace the machine as it has served us well with no real troubles for at least 17 years possibly over 20 years so I don't think it owes me anything and even if I can repair it I suspect it will only be a matter of time till it suffers more failures
Nice video I have a quick question, I have a Currys Essentials C510WM13 A short time after selecting a cycle the machine stops, I get a few beeps and the start/pause button is flashing 7 times in 4 seconds, according to the manual it's an error 7 and all that's in the manual is "contact maintenance personnel" This happens normally about the same time the drum should start turning on a cycle Could this be a motor fault? Thanks for your time
Question...If im having a problem with the motor should u just buy a new one or can you repair the motor...I had the washing machine for 8yrs and it doesnt spins I look at the belt and notings wrong with it.
i have a bosch wae28468/14 with error F21(brushes,motor or main control brd)Brushes are fine. commutator sooted slightly but now clean,not much wear.my motor has 7 connectors which i think are 1-2 sensor3-4 brushes, 5,6,7 windings.across 1-2 i get 7 ohms, on 3-4 i get 23ohms static or 0-23ohms when turning spindle and approx 2-3 ohms across 5-6,5-7,6-7. I tried several times to reset the error but was unable, so took the front cover off and tried the reset procedure pressing directly on the spring/switch which worked first time. i put back together and put a wash on which worked fine for 30 mins into the program then the machine stopped again on error F21, do you think this could be the main control board or motor problem. do you have a main control brd - BSH 5560 009 098
Hello. My washing machine was giving me an ND Code. I cleaned all the hoses. Then I replaced the pump. And now my washer will go into wash..as soon. As it goes to drain it won't drain. Or spin. But now I'm not even getting the ND code. Can this be wiring?
You say that to test the tacho generator you take the resistance reading which should be "any reading that wasn't a short circuit or an infinite reading" and you measure 70-71 Ohms which you say is fine. Mine is reading a steady 32 Ohms so would appear to be ok but I have read elsewhere that the resistance should vary when you rotate the motor, is this correct? Mine does not vary when I rotate the motor but the tacho generator appears fine when it is removed from the motor. I have removed and inspected the brushes which seem fine, they also show a resistance within your tolerances. My washing machine is a Hoover DYN9124DG-80 with a CESET MCC 52/64-148/CY59 motor. Thanks, Colin :o)
+Colin Preece The tacho resistance does not change but it has a magnet that induces a small voltage that may cause your meter to fluctuate as it is spun. If the Tacho had lost its magnet or gone open circuit the motor would spin to maximum as the board told it to turn. With no feedback to the board it would suspect a problem and stop the motor then usually retry again.
Thanks for the prompt reply. We didn’t notice the motor spinning to maximum, the motor won’t spin at all and shows the error code E08. According to your website (www.espares.co.uk/advice/0/2531/how-to-understand-hoover-and-candy-washing-machine-error-codes) this indicates “a problem with the motor speed sensor. This can result in the motor spinning up at very high speed for a few seconds slowing down and then stopping. It may also mean that the motor is not spinning.” I haven’t checked the motor’s field winding resistance as I can’t work out which wires to check. The multi connector has 9 x wires: 2 x red go to the tacho, 1 x whiteish-grey goes to a brush, 1 x blue goes to the other brush. This leaves 2 x purple, 1 x black, 1 x orange and 1 x brown. The machine has already had a new door latch and PCB when showing error E01 (each renewed item did make a difference) but now the motor doesn’t spin and error E08 is displayed. Any ideas? Thanks.
+Colin Preece The E08 as stated is the control board not seeing the motor turn and is due to the motor not turning. If the brushes are in good condition and you have checked the motor connections and the PCB connections then the problem is likely to be the control board.
So, ive just carried out all checks in accordance with the video(which is great by the way) motor would appear to be servicable. However my error code points to the motor/speed sensor. All readings are nominal. Any thoughts? Model: hoover Candy DXOA410C3180 31007922 Error E08
Hi, thanks for your comment and for your appreciation of our video! We have another video focused on the E08 error code that you can see here: ruclips.net/video/Xmh8_1LRrlA/видео.html Hope this helps!
Hi William, to check the motor the meter must be set to the lowest Ohm's range (0-200?). A washing machine motor will typically give a resistance of between only 1 and 10 ohms for a winding or across the brushes.
My multimeter has anything from 2 - 5000ohm range. I’ll test them again @ 200 range and post my results, I’m still convinced the windings test is showing up infinite resistance.
I’ve tested it again and my results are. @ 200ohm setting Armature 00.1 Brushes 46.1 windings 00.0 / @ 20ohms Armature 0.09 Brushes doesn’t budge windings 0.00 / @ 2ohms setting Armature 0.88 Brushes doesn’t budge windings .002 I’m a little confused by the Brushes reading @ 200ohm setting but the windings results seem consistent with a faulty motor. Issue is a machine that won’t engage left turn, right turn or spin whilst in diagnostic mode.
Have you removed and examined the brushes. wash motors rarely go short so as long as you have a 'low resistance it is likely to be OK. If you are getting 'unusual' brush readings suspect worn brushes.
David Pearson The lowest setting for your meter on resistance is 20K ohms so that is most useful for most readings on domestic appliances and for checking Continuity.
Hi do u know why my washing machine won’t turn or sometimes it does or goes into spin I know u mentioned it but my machine is about 20 years old and I didn’t know if them motors would have sensors?
Josh my Bosch front loader is spinning very slow,,, close r very wet at and of cycle ,,, took motor out to find it is brushless,,, tested for ohm reading and set at 200 it read 115.7,,, what should I do,,, disabled and can't afford tech... Please help,,, ps w.pump working but making noise,,, thnx
+Mario Silva The usual cause of a machine not going to spin just tumbling is an out of balance load. This is covered in another one of our videos: ruclips.net/video/uKBy-9NEF5A/видео.html
Hi, I have a Bosch Axxis Washer (was20160uc/18) which I think the motor has gone out. Can you tell me what the Ohms readings should be for this specific motor? The numbers for my primary windings seem low: Pins 2&3 = 1.2 Ohms, Pins 1&2 = .2 Ohms, and Pins 1&3 1.0 Ohms. I believe the part number for the motor is #144843. I cannot find this one but I can find part #145327 which I think will also work. I have talked to some technicians to get them to my home but they only wanted to help me over the phone. It was kind of them and I appreciated it but I have an unhappy wife who wants this fixed. Thank You
+Mike Darius WE do not have the resistances of the motor coils. If the brushes are in good order and you do not have any motor drive see our diagnosis video: ruclips.net/video/D5Aw7CBEGPI/видео.html
I’ve just tested my motor and I’m fairly certain the windings are at fault. I’m getting infinite across all 3 wires. What’s confusing me though is when I test the brushes, in my case....red wire and white wire, I get nothing, no readings whatsoever, just reading 1. What does that mean? Checked brushes and they look fine.
Hi William, to check the motor the meter must be set to the lowest Ohm's range (0-200?). A washing machine motor will typically give a resistance of between only 1 and 10 ohms for a winding or across the brushes.
Quite often my washing machine motor will randomly burst and jerk during the main wash and rinses which causes the machine to bash about, is this a brush problem or more of a motor problem?
***** There are three possible causes . Worn brushes (easy enough to check) see video: ruclips.net/video/MNInJd7js5A/видео.html Loose motor connections (check) If the problem still occurs after checking the above it is possible it is a faulty pcb or module.
My Zanussi ZWF16070W washing machine keeps trying to go into a full speed spin rather than balancing the load and increasing the spin speed gradually, causing the machine to shake violently. It then just winds down, does nothing for a few minutes, and does the same thing over and over again (and will continue to do this until I switch it off). However, the drum rotates properly during the initial washing part of the programs prior to the first spin. It also fills with water and drains properly. From what you say in this video, it appears that the sensor on my washing machine's motor is faulty and is sending the wrong information to the control panel. Can this sensor be replaced or does the entire motor need to be replaced?
Hi Lianne, interesting one this as if the sensor or motor were faulty the drum would normally go to full speed (Like it does on spin) during the wash cycle. Run a spin cycle empty and watch. The drum should turn slowly one direction then the other several times before starting to increase in speed to full. If it does this try with a light load again just rinse and spin. If it goes straight to full speed after the tumble suspect the PCB.
Hi there. Many thanks for your reply. The strange thing is, if I run it on a spin-only cycle it will drain, rotate back & forth as if to balance the load, then commence the spin from the slowest speed, working its way to the fastest speed. However, within a second or two of reaching maximum spin speed something makes a 'dull click' sound and it cuts the spin and slows down to a stop. The spin program is ten minutes long and the last time I tested it, it failed a few minutes before it should have finished. I've tried a few wash programs (including the spin-only program) with light loads of washing and whilst empty, and it does the exact same thing - the spin program functions as I've just described and the wash programs function fine until it needs to spin (I believe the first spin is prior to the first rinse, as the fabric conditioner is still in the drawer at this point) - which is when it tries to launch into a full speed spin rather than gradually. One other thing that is a bit strange is that it seems to complete the 30 minute/30 degree wash program with no issues. Unfortunately this particular program has a short spin duration so the washing is still rather wet. I originally suspected the PCB but after seeing your video I was wondering if it might be the sensor on the motor, however, it looks like my original suspicion is correct. I think I'll just buy a new washing machine. It will be a shame though because although I've had my Zanussi for about ten years it's still like a new machine (apart from this spin issue that's just developed). It's quiet, stays rock-steady at all times (it hardly vibrates at all) and had always washed everything perfectly well.
The problem certainly sounds like the PCB, during spin the motor uses a lot more power so may cause the drive circuit to go short and produce full power. After ten years of regular use the machine is likely to be requiring major repairs shortly (Bearings?) . With a replacement representing a significant cost on this occasion it may be sensible to replace. :-(
Hi, and thanks for the reply again. Apart from the spinning issue everything else seems to be fine. I doubt anything mechanical will need to be replaced any time soon (the bearings are still running smoothly, etc) but there's always the risk of other electronic parts suddenly going wrong at any time. Considering the price of a new PCB I'm thinking it would be better to pay a bit more and buy a new machine. Just seems a shame to dispose of a machine that's in good mechanical condition. Thanks for your help and advice with this - much appreciated.
Hi my washing machine has stopped working for some reason and keeps on leaking and I don't know what to do about it could you please give me some advise thank you
Hi Eisha, There are a number of possible causes for a leak. Check the door seal rim and in the folds for a hole or tear. If the seal is OK unplug the machine and take the back off. Then poor a kettle of water into the drum through the door. If this comes straight out identify where it is leaking from as there may be a hole in the drum caused by a coin. Once identified the cause can then be addressed.
To answer we would need the full model number and part description. Fill in your information on the following link and we will identify the part you require: www.espares.co.uk/contact/sales
hi few days ago Changed board.The problem is that the program makes normally powered, cut it heats, the drum spins left and right, spin INTERMEDIATE but at last SPIN opens and closes the relay and a current of the motor gives a not.end the technician who came told me that blame the tachometer Motor while not not make any trouble codes when you doing the diagnostics test the lights flash 8 times.means motor HELP me if you know something thanks model gorenje wa50060 art.n 157264 ser.n
eSpares It is possible that he will have programming pins j1 j2 j3 j4 j5 Should break some pins or board to the box she had a paper saying the revolutions thanks
+κωστας κωστακης Many control modules have to be 'programmed' to the machine they are used on. This may be by pressing the buttons in a certain sequence or there may be links to remove or move. If there is paperwork with the new board follow the instructions. You may be able to copy the link 'pattern' from the old board to match on the new but check the supplied information first.
Hi I have a Samsung washing machine when you turn the dial and select a program it doesn’t work do you think it’s a motor problem is it worth changing the whole machine or worth repairing the washing machine?
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can't thank these people enough. As a single mum they have helped me fix my Bosch twice now which has cost me $14 au and a bit of time. 12 year old machine still running like new.
Thank you, Melinda Glad we could help.
Very well explained, now I gotta go test those motors, save a washing machine from getting scraped.
Hi, thanks for your comment. It's good to hear that you found our video useful, and are going to try to repair your washing machine yourself and save it from being scrapped!
After being almost crazy with this error I finally figured it out. In my case it was the pin that connects the wire to the carbon brush device. It was a bit loose connection in one of them. I disconnected, then took pliers and made pressure on the pin to make it tighter (not too much) and then connected again and had the feeling of a solid connection! And voila! (I also checked the speed sensor at the end of the engine with a multimeter just in case) Now it's perfect again! Thanks to the video, very professional.
Hi NandoMirandaHorses
. Great work and perseverance on this one! We're glad to hear you enjoyed this video.
Super explanation!👍 Straight to the point, and with actual useful tips.
Hi, thanks for your comment, glad to know you found this video so useful. Hope you have your washing machine fixed soon!
Thanks a lot !! I did exactly as you advised!! Resistance of central pair was infinity/disconnected/open loop,so I replaced the two carbon brushed which the two were half centimeters only! almost touching its wire...washing machine is now functional!! thanks,Yaron
Hi Yaron, thank you for your post and glad our video helped and well done on fixing it.
Great guide. On my motor off a Candy CDB 126 I had 6 wires instead of 7. The way I worked through this was firstly tracing the pair for the velocity sensor (2 red wires from the can on the end) 43 ohms [good].
Then I checked the colours from each of the 2 brushes - blue & pink respectively. These measured 4.7 ohms [good]. These confirm the armature windings (the rotating central part) and commutator (copper segments on the end that the brushes are contacting) are all good.
Finally there were 2 remaining wires - a black and a grey wire which went inside to the field coils in the motor casing. These measured around 2 ohms [good]. This confirmed the motor is basically OK which means my fault is elsewhere. I have already repaired a couple of broken wires to the dryer heaters so I am checking the wiring from the motor wire plug back to the control board for breaks as these wires are also constantly flexed by the movement of the drum assembly and have possibly become brittle inside.
your videos are high quality educational materials. being a technician this further helps me to use multimeter for fault finding.....
Excellent and very comprehensive video. This is why youtube is so powerful and genuinely helpful to everyone....of course with the exceptions being the tradesman. lol
My CESET Motor has problem at speed.
Firstly thanks to eSpares for an informative video. I found it after fitting a new set of brushes with limited success.
After fitting the new brushes my machine completed a spin cycle and then failed on a wash cycle. Now the motor will turn (with no laundry) at slow speeds, but keeps cutting at high speed as if there’s a loose connection. Having tested the Tacho and Windings everything seems good.
I thought the problem might be a start/run capacitor, but these motors don’t seem to require one (guessing because of the field windings). With the absence of a capacitor I decided to investigate the PCB (against even my own better judgement). I thought I’d found the answer when it looked fried with black tracks on the back and a coating on a chip, but all of this blew off to reveal a clean circuit board (apparently dust from belt attracted to electrical current). I did suspect I had found one or two dry solder joints, but I’ve made them good to no avail.
Any connectors have been crimped a little tighter and/or blasted with cleaner, which hasn’t helped in the slightest.
So, to all that have read this far:
- Have you resolved a similar problem and how?
- Any ideas on what might be causing the problem or what else I can check?
Thanks for any informative replies.
I barely know what the heck I'm doing but this video helped me identify the problem with my Whirlpool's motor.
Thanks for the comments, we try to produce videos that allow anyone to repair their appliances so it is great when we get this type of feedback.
Another excellent seminar from espares.
Very good explanation - I don't think I'll bother trying to take the motor out of my Beko though as I think it's the carbon brushes that need replacing as it was sparking and lighting up when I took the back off - you said at the end though that if you find any of these faults then the whole motor needs replacing? You can't just replace the carbon brushes? Probably not worth the time or money to fix if I can get a new one for about £230 anyway
Excellent video. Helped me identify a faulty brush on my Electrolux washer.
Hello Josh - just watched your excellent video - thanks. I ran the Whirlpool diagnostic which confirmed there's a problem somewhere with the motor. I checked the carbon brushes and they're OK but the sensor on the motor is s/c. Do you know what the effect of this fault would be? Would it prevent the drum from rotating altogether? Thanks in anticipation.
Excellent ...now I know I need new brushes.
Hi David, glad the video helped.
Thanks. The multimeter tips worked for me.
Thanks for this video it was very informative. Do you have any video or suggestion on why my Samsung front loader wont turn on?
Hi Durrel James, if you have power to the machine start by checking the door lock because if that has failed then it wont start.
Excellent video, however I just removed my motor from my Hotpoint WDD960P as it keeps tripping the electrics, and on my motor I only have 5 wires, I proceeded to check but the readings are nowhere near what you’re getting, do you have any videos for a hotpoint motor ? Thanks
Thanks fo the video. Our machine topped working ( won't turn on.). I noticed quite some oil pooled underneath. A friend suggested it could be a torn/broken belt. Any advice on how to proceed?
+Tom Anastasios What machine are we talking about?.
Thanks eSpares for this great Video!
Thank you for the comment Samuel, hope it has helped.
Very helpful video
Hi, thanks for your comment, we hope that it has helped you to resolve the issue you were having with you washing machine!
Good demonstration.
My motor running but suddenly pulling 2x the current, humming and then shuts down halfway through cycle. Thermal switch I presume.
Any idea why it's drawing so much current?
Thanks, was a great help, motor turned out to be fine, when reassembled it all worked properly, so don't know why it packed up in the first place.
Hi Steve, If you did not take the brushes out to examine them or if they were quite worn by disturbing them they may work for a few washes.
However, if this was the problem it is likely it will return.
Yeah, the brush I took out was fine, put it all back together, worked for 5 minutes, then packed up. Ordered new brushes, when I went to fit them, the brush I didn't take out was totally worn away. Lesson learnt, always check both brushes, though was surprised how much worn one was than the other.
Steve Borrett Unusual for one to wear so much more than the other. It may have been sticking a little and the lighter contact may have resulted in it burning away as opposed to normal wear.
Glad you sorted at last.
Hi eSpares! is all the front load washing machine motors has the same types of connections? Because i plan to replace the motor of my washing machine from my old LG. thanks and have a great day!
+Oscar Gasalatan If the machines are from the same range they may well be identical but without the full model numbers we cannot confirm this.
Hi I have a Samsung washing machine when you turn the dial and select a program it doesn’t work do you think it’s a motor problem is it worth changing the whole machine or worth repairing the washing machine?
The speed sensor in my case is reading 140ohms. Does that indicate that it’s faulty? My issue is the machine would fill with water normally but it won’t spin.
we have ordered a bearing a bearing kit for my hotpoint tdl30 its now making a burning smell when running any idea if how to fix this
My Hotpoint Ariston motor speed sensor has a reading of about 137ohms
Would that be ok?
very helpful, but can u add how to test the " thermal cut out " inside the motor , after doing all your test everything seemed good .. but 2 purple wires on mine are open circuit.. me thinks this must be the TCO,, pull out the wires and yes , took it apart , stuck small screwdriver under bimetal strip , put all back together , test with lighter , it trips and resets ... do u sell these tco
Thank you Gosh. very informative video. thank you!
Hi MrTomcat124, thank you for your comment and glad we helped.
Do you have a video on replacing the sensor.... assuming the sensor can be replaced
+damprye gothica Sorry we do not currently have a video on replacing this part.
josh,
thanks for a great video.
I just have a simple question, what do you set your test meter at, could it be 200-Oms?
also, is the cables color cod universal? i mean from one brand to an other
We cannot guarantee the colour code will be the same on all machines but to measure resistance of the motor or coils a low resistance setting (0 - 200) is usually the correct setting.
you are top notch Josh
thank you for your reply.
i now feel confident to have a go at it
Thanks
Thanks for the comments, remember to 'like’ the video if you enjoyed it or it helped.👍
Thanks!
I have a bush F841QW and it is displaying excessive vibration. But this only happens during a 40 degree or 30 degrees wash cycle and the excessive vibration only starts after about 20 minutes of wash. But once it starts, it continues during the rinse cycle but not during the spin cycle. But it doesn’t do it during the same cycle but at 20 degrees instead of 40 or 30 degrees.
I have been studying its behaviour. And after about 20 minutes of a hot wash, it starts to undergo high acceleration from rest which is not normal and it is this that causes the excessive vibration. It was suggested that the cause of the high acceleration from rest is power surge to the motor and is caused by something heating up with time.
The question is what is heating up with time and causing the temporary motor power surge?
Any advice will greatly appreciated.
Bosch Nexxt 300 washer spinning super fast..... Codes D06, D08, D09, and D11 came up.
Is it the speed sensor? If so, where is it located and how do I replace or repair?
Is the speed sensor on the motor? Is speed sensor replaceable ? Or do you need to replace whole motor?
Hi iceman382, they are different error codes but are related to the motor except for D06 which is an NTC short circuit, start by testing the motor with a multimeter and you need ENR number to identify the model details.
Hi, I have a hotpoint wma34 that trips the electric when the motor attempts to spin, I check the brushes and they were very worn so I replaced them but still the same... Then I found this video! The speed sensor gives a reading of about 190 ohms... Also if I manually torn the rotor this reading varies a little as I would expect but it also gives a random null or 1 every now and then which seems odd to me... Does this mean I need to replace the whole motor? I also get a reading of 8.1-10ohms on the final test ( the motor windings?) and very high reading if I connect across the brushes...
Thanks for any advice given
Hi batfink 132000, when testing for a fault on the motor you are looking for continuity readings to test it, with your fault you are looking for a component that is going down to earth causing the electrics to trip which would normally require a meggar meter to test the components. Does the machine work OK when washing?
@@eSpares it appears to work OK until the motor trys to spin the drum and the it trips the main fuse box... Thanks for replying but I have decided to replace the machine as it has served us well with no real troubles for at least 17 years possibly over 20 years so I don't think it owes me anything and even if I can repair it I suspect it will only be a matter of time till it suffers more failures
thanks. very helpful
+michael picard :-)
Nice video
I have a quick question, I have a Currys Essentials C510WM13
A short time after selecting a cycle the machine stops, I get a few beeps and the start/pause button is flashing 7 times in 4 seconds, according to the manual it's an error 7 and all that's in the manual is "contact maintenance personnel"
This happens normally about the same time the drum should start turning on a cycle
Could this be a motor fault?
Thanks for your time
Hi Pete, check the carbon brushes and they may have worn causing the motor to stop rotating. Please let us know how you get on.
eSpares thanks for the response and will be getting parts from you guys :-)
Question...If im having a problem with the motor should u just buy a new one or can you repair the motor...I had the washing machine for 8yrs and it doesnt spins I look at the belt and notings wrong with it.
Hi Douglas, it would depend on the make and model as they are supplied differently, most supply the carbon brushes separate so check them first.
Thanks for your informations.
You are welcome, we have many diagnosis videos for most appliances if you have a problem and need help.
subscribed to your channel.
i have a bosch wae28468/14 with error F21(brushes,motor or main control brd)Brushes are fine. commutator sooted slightly but now clean,not much wear.my motor has 7 connectors which i think are 1-2 sensor3-4 brushes, 5,6,7 windings.across 1-2 i get 7 ohms, on 3-4 i get 23ohms static or 0-23ohms when turning spindle and approx 2-3 ohms across 5-6,5-7,6-7.
I tried several times to reset the error but was unable, so took the front cover off and tried the reset procedure pressing directly on the spring/switch which worked first time. i put back together and put a wash on which worked fine for 30 mins into the program then the machine stopped again on error F21, do you think this could be the main control board or motor problem.
do you have a main control brd - BSH 5560 009 098
Hello. My washing machine was giving me an ND Code. I cleaned all the hoses. Then I replaced the pump. And now my washer will go into wash..as soon. As it goes to drain it won't drain. Or spin. But now I'm not even getting the ND code. Can this be wiring?
You say that to test the tacho generator you take the resistance reading which should be "any reading that wasn't a short circuit or an infinite reading" and you measure 70-71 Ohms which you say is fine. Mine is reading a steady 32 Ohms so would appear to be ok but I have read elsewhere that the resistance should vary when you rotate the motor, is this correct? Mine does not vary when I rotate the motor but the tacho generator appears fine when it is removed from the motor.
I have removed and inspected the brushes which seem fine, they also show a resistance within your tolerances.
My washing machine is a Hoover DYN9124DG-80 with a CESET MCC 52/64-148/CY59 motor.
Thanks, Colin :o)
+Colin Preece The tacho resistance does not change but it has a magnet that induces a small voltage that may cause your meter to fluctuate as it is spun. If the Tacho had lost its magnet or gone open circuit the motor would spin to maximum as the board told it to turn. With no feedback to the board it would suspect a problem and stop the motor then usually retry again.
Thanks for the prompt reply. We didn’t notice the motor spinning to maximum, the motor won’t spin at all and shows the error code E08. According to your website (www.espares.co.uk/advice/0/2531/how-to-understand-hoover-and-candy-washing-machine-error-codes) this indicates “a problem with the motor speed sensor. This can result in the motor spinning up at very high speed for a few seconds slowing down and then stopping. It may also mean that the motor is not spinning.” I haven’t checked the motor’s field winding resistance as I can’t work out which wires to check. The multi connector has 9 x wires: 2 x red go to the tacho, 1 x whiteish-grey goes to a brush, 1 x blue goes to the other brush. This leaves 2 x purple, 1 x black, 1 x orange and 1 x brown.
The machine has already had a new door latch and PCB when showing error E01 (each renewed item did make a difference) but now the motor doesn’t spin and error E08 is displayed.
Any ideas? Thanks.
+Colin Preece The E08 as stated is the control board not seeing the motor turn and is due to the motor not turning. If the brushes are in good condition and you have checked the motor connections and the PCB connections then the problem is likely to be the control board.
So, ive just carried out all checks in accordance with the video(which is great by the way) motor would appear to be servicable. However my error code points to the motor/speed sensor. All readings are nominal. Any thoughts?
Model: hoover Candy DXOA410C3180 31007922
Error E08
Hi, thanks for your comment and for your appreciation of our video! We have another video focused on the E08 error code that you can see here:
ruclips.net/video/Xmh8_1LRrlA/видео.html
Hope this helps!
Also what ohms range do you have the multimeter set to? I’m getting mixed results.
Hi William, to check the motor the meter must be set to the lowest Ohm's range (0-200?). A washing machine motor will typically give a resistance of between only 1 and 10 ohms for a winding or across the brushes.
My multimeter has anything from 2 - 5000ohm range. I’ll test them again @ 200 range and post my results, I’m still convinced the windings test is showing up infinite resistance.
Meant to say 2000ohm range
I’ve tested it again and my results are. @ 200ohm setting Armature 00.1 Brushes 46.1 windings 00.0 / @ 20ohms Armature 0.09 Brushes doesn’t budge windings 0.00 / @ 2ohms setting Armature 0.88 Brushes doesn’t budge windings .002
I’m a little confused by the Brushes reading @ 200ohm setting but the windings results seem consistent with a faulty motor. Issue is a machine that won’t engage left turn, right turn or spin whilst in diagnostic mode.
Have you removed and examined the brushes. wash motors rarely go short so as long as you have a 'low resistance it is likely to be OK. If you are getting 'unusual' brush readings suspect worn brushes.
Hello. Anyone know what setting to put multimeter on? I have 20k and 200k ohms setting and 20m and 2000m ohms external unit settings.
David Pearson The lowest setting for your meter on resistance is 20K ohms so that is most useful for most readings on domestic appliances and for checking Continuity.
Hi do u know why my washing machine won’t turn or sometimes it does or goes into spin I know u mentioned it but my machine is about 20 years old and I didn’t know if them motors would have sensors?
Hi Kai1234, start by checking the obvious, the filter in case it's blocked then check the carbon brushes and drive belt.
eSpares ok thank u I will check the filter and the brushes and belt are fine
Ok Kai1234, good luck and let us know how you get on.
Hi again I’ve done all the things you’ve suggested but still no luck :(
Josh my Bosch front loader is spinning very slow,,, close r very wet at and of cycle ,,, took motor out to find it is brushless,,, tested for ohm reading and set at 200 it read 115.7,,, what should I do,,, disabled and can't afford tech... Please help,,, ps w.pump working but making noise,,, thnx
+Mario Silva The usual cause of a machine not going to spin just tumbling is an out of balance load. This is covered in another one of our videos: ruclips.net/video/uKBy-9NEF5A/видео.html
If a motor is in place and the pump taken off one end, should the spindle(??) spin freely or is it locked up?????
Hi, I have a Bosch Axxis Washer (was20160uc/18) which I think the motor has gone out. Can you tell me what the Ohms readings should be for this specific motor? The numbers for my primary windings seem low: Pins 2&3 = 1.2 Ohms, Pins 1&2 = .2 Ohms, and Pins 1&3 1.0 Ohms. I believe the part number for the motor is #144843. I cannot find this one but I can find part #145327 which I think will also work. I have talked to some technicians to get them to my home but they only wanted to help me over the phone. It was kind of them and I appreciated it but I have an unhappy wife who wants this fixed. Thank You
+Mike Darius WE do not have the resistances of the motor coils. If the brushes are in good order and you do not have any motor drive see our diagnosis video: ruclips.net/video/D5Aw7CBEGPI/видео.html
+eSpares Lol, thank you, I'll have to check that out. ;)
+Mike Darius :-)
I’ve just tested my motor and I’m fairly certain the windings are at fault. I’m getting infinite across all 3 wires. What’s confusing me though is when I test the brushes, in my case....red wire and white wire, I get nothing, no readings whatsoever, just reading 1. What does that mean? Checked brushes and they look fine.
Hi William, to check the motor the meter must be set to the lowest Ohm's range (0-200?). A washing machine motor will typically give a resistance of between only 1 and 10 ohms for a winding or across the brushes.
I tested all the points I got like 00.1 it good
Hi Ammar, what is the problem and model number and have you checked the brushes are not worn away?.
Quite often my washing machine motor will randomly burst and jerk during the main wash and rinses which causes the machine to bash about, is this a brush problem or more of a motor problem?
***** There are three possible causes .
Worn brushes (easy enough to check) see video:
ruclips.net/video/MNInJd7js5A/видео.html
Loose motor connections (check)
If the problem still occurs after checking the above it is possible it is a faulty pcb or module.
eSpares Thank you very much for your help and advice!
Help anyone! What does a short circuit and infinite reading look like?
My Zanussi ZWF16070W washing machine keeps trying to go into a full speed spin rather than balancing the load and increasing the spin speed gradually, causing the machine to shake violently. It then just winds down, does nothing for a few minutes, and does the same thing over and over again (and will continue to do this until I switch it off). However, the drum rotates properly during the initial washing part of the programs prior to the first spin. It also fills with water and drains properly. From what you say in this video, it appears that the sensor on my washing machine's motor is faulty and is sending the wrong information to the control panel. Can this sensor be replaced or does the entire motor need to be replaced?
Hi Lianne, interesting one this as if the sensor or motor were faulty the drum would normally go to full speed (Like it does on spin) during the wash cycle. Run a spin cycle empty and watch. The drum should turn slowly one direction then the other several times before starting to increase in speed to full. If it does this try with a light load again just rinse and spin. If it goes straight to full speed after the tumble suspect the PCB.
Hi there. Many thanks for your reply. The strange thing is, if I run it on a spin-only cycle it will drain, rotate back & forth as if to balance the load, then commence the spin from the slowest speed, working its way to the fastest speed. However, within a second or two of reaching maximum spin speed something makes a 'dull click' sound and it cuts the spin and slows down to a stop. The spin program is ten minutes long and the last time I tested it, it failed a few minutes before it should have finished. I've tried a few wash programs (including the spin-only program) with light loads of washing and whilst empty, and it does the exact same thing - the spin program functions as I've just described and the wash programs function fine until it needs to spin (I believe the first spin is prior to the first rinse, as the fabric conditioner is still in the drawer at this point) - which is when it tries to launch into a full speed spin rather than gradually.
One other thing that is a bit strange is that it seems to complete the 30 minute/30 degree wash program with no issues. Unfortunately this particular program has a short spin duration so the washing is still rather wet. I originally suspected the PCB but after seeing your video I was wondering if it might be the sensor on the motor, however, it looks like my original suspicion is correct. I think I'll just buy a new washing machine. It will be a shame though because although I've had my Zanussi for about ten years it's still like a new machine (apart from this spin issue that's just developed). It's quiet, stays rock-steady at all times (it hardly vibrates at all) and had always washed everything perfectly well.
The problem certainly sounds like the PCB, during spin the motor uses a lot more power so may cause the drive circuit to go short and produce full power. After ten years of regular use the machine is likely to be requiring major repairs shortly (Bearings?) . With a replacement representing a significant cost on this occasion it may be sensible to replace. :-(
Hi, and thanks for the reply again. Apart from the spinning issue everything else seems to be fine. I doubt anything mechanical will need to be replaced any time soon (the bearings are still running smoothly, etc) but there's always the risk of other electronic parts suddenly going wrong at any time. Considering the price of a new PCB I'm thinking it would be better to pay a bit more and buy a new machine. Just seems a shame to dispose of a machine that's in good mechanical condition. Thanks for your help and advice with this - much appreciated.
😊
Hi my washing machine has stopped working for some reason and keeps on leaking and I don't know what to do about it could you please give me some advise thank you
Hi Eisha, There are a number of possible causes for a leak. Check the door seal rim and in the folds for a hole or tear. If the seal is OK unplug the machine and take the back off. Then poor a kettle of water into the drum through the door. If this comes straight out identify where it is leaking from as there may be a hole in the drum caused by a coin. Once identified the cause can then be addressed.
Thanks you save me €70 I need just replace brushes :-)
Thanks for the comments, remember to 'like’ the video if you enjoyed it or it helped.👍
Hi. How to make induction motor to rotate in reverse?
Hi farabielec, it would depend on the type of washing machine but generally from a control board.
Hello, can you tell me about the WTB740E1W Beko washing machine motor details?
Motor of washing machine over heated and start smelling
Bearings replaced
What can be problem?
My washing machine not turning and i dont hear anything at the motor so what the problem
Hi Joanne, check the carbon brushes in the motor which if they are worn will stop the motor from turning.
. did you now nomber part of sensor please
To answer we would need the full model number and part description. Fill in your information on the following link and we will identify the part you require:
www.espares.co.uk/contact/sales
When I turn on my washing machine
It spins
After few minutes
Electricity shuts down
What's the solution?
Hi Naughtyjerry, we believe the fault could be related to either the heating element or mains filter.
hi few days ago Changed board.The problem is that the program makes normally powered, cut it heats, the drum spins left and right, spin INTERMEDIATE but at last SPIN opens and closes the relay and a current of the motor gives a not.end the technician who came told me that blame the tachometer Motor while not not make any trouble codes when you doing the diagnostics test the lights flash 8 times.means motor HELP me if you know something thanks model gorenje wa50060 art.n 157264 ser.n
+κωστας κωστακης We would suspect the motor as you have already replaced the control board.
eSpares It is possible that he will have programming pins j1 j2 j3 j4 j5 Should break some pins or board to the box she had a paper saying the revolutions thanks
+κωστας κωστακης Many control modules have to be 'programmed' to the machine they are used on. This may be by pressing the buttons in a certain sequence or there may be links to remove or move. If there is paperwork with the new board follow the instructions. You may be able to copy the link 'pattern' from the old board to match on the new but check the supplied information first.
THANK YOU FOLLOW THE directions of the paper will break spike believe correct the problem Thanks for responding.
+κωστας κωστακης You are welcome.
How to remove motor outer body... The moter leg its broken
Hi Goutham vinu., can you provide your model details for us to have a look at it.
@@eSpares Hi sir
Model samsung 6.5kg with nob...
Dymond drum.
Hi Goutham, that's not the model number, it on the rating plate of the washing machine.
Any sujjetion
my washing machine is not discharge
+OLA FAGBEMI For information on your problem see another of our videos:
ruclips.net/video/frEJhX9Sppw/видео.html
My motor has no brushes.
Many machines are no being supplied with 'brush-less motors'. If the motor does not turn on a setting it is likely to be a control board problem.
NEED WH20X10028 TACHOMETER ONLY
Hi John, sorry but we do not stock the Tacho separately.
Jolene wants her pants back! LG
full
My tacho coil reading is approx 179 ohms, is this normal for a Zanussi ZWH 6160P washing machine, Prod no. 91490641500
Hi MrJsingh1986, the meter reading does vary, having the reading would suggest the tacho is OK
Hi I have a Samsung washing machine when you turn the dial and select a program it doesn’t work do you think it’s a motor problem is it worth changing the whole machine or worth repairing the washing machine?
Have you been able to fix it?…the same thing is happening to my machine also
Please let me know
@RaheemaKhalifa have you been able to fix it…the same thing is happening to my machine