2017 Silverado Cam Swap (AFM/DOD Delete)
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- This 2017 Chevrolet Silverado came in for a Cam swap plus AFM/DOD delete and a full exhaust system including longtube headers.
This is a time lapse of the process to swap the cam and install the rest of the kit. This engine is a Gen 5 direct injection known as the L83 which is a 5.3 liter. This video also applies to the L86 (6.2) engine. Parts came from Texas Speed.
*All work performed by Chris at Kyle Hirt's performance shop.
*All modifications are for off-road use only
#Cammed #L83 #CamSwap
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Damn that sounds good. Nice build.
Thanks!
I’m gonna need a list of EVERYTHING you put into this! This sounds DAMN good, and I want to do this to my 2018 1500…. ASAP! 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Perfect video... No bullshit talking the whole time about nonsense and dragging the video out like those other idiots... Straight to the point... Good job
Couldn't agree more!
Damn your much faster than I am,lol. I'm doing my 15 6.2 Silverado right now. I'm going to check out more of your work. This is my first time in a LS/LT engine. Subbed.👍👍🏁🏁
Did you get it tuned right?
Nice work! Folks hanging onto their l83 , mine being a 2016 gmc Denali figured while in there do a refresh at 56,000. Miles as well
So why did you pull the motor out? Just asking is it a must on the gen5?
I know this is old but I wish to know this as well. I a lot of people opt to do this without pulling the engine and it looks like a lot of the work was done with it in. So it is confusing.
When you have 4x4 and you need to drop the pan it’s easier and quicker to pull the entire motor out for the 4x4 trucks.. otherwise your removing everything in the way to drop the pan
Why wouldn't you. Replace the oil pump and clean the pan out. The douche bags at GM did not pull the pan or install a new pump on mu wifes 2022 Burb. All that metal has to go somewhere. I would hate to do all this work and then have a rod bearing failure, because of all the metal left in the engine.
@@bagger2013jm Because of the simple fact that it can be done without removing the engine. If you are like me and do not have a garage, leaving the engine in might be the best option. Just saying it would be a huge advantage to me and a lot of other people personally. It sounds like if what you are saying is true, I will need to plan to remove the engine to do it correctly, something I have also never done before.
@@DrRob-rt2lf it’s like 8 stub shaft bolts per axle, 1 connector, 2 bolts and 2 nuts plus 4 cross member bolts to drop the front diff. It’s not that hard, definitely a lot less work than trying to keep the trans in place and lining up dowel pins. Coming from a gm tech
You make this look so easy
Nice build! I have a 2016 that I would like a DOD delete ,new lifters,pushrods,springs and a mild cam I don’t want mine too choppy/loud ,how much would that cost me?
i spent $1400 stage 1 cam kit afm dod delete on my 2017 gmc sierra and 600 bucks on my hp tuner but i did the work myself
@@jcperformance928 website you ordered parts from?
@@jcperformance928how did you get the timing chain off?
Great vid, will use this for reference. My 14 just grenaded at 260k but found a 5.3 w/ 42k on it and will be doing the cam kit in the next couple of days.
How many miles at the time of the video? Thanks, awesome truck and build! Also how were the valves from the direct injection? 👍
Sounds good too
Sounds amazing
My 2015 has the AFM mechanically deleted, same cam yours has. I still have to get a performance tune as the guy only slightly tuned it to run so far. After the cam she idled too low to stay running and stuff. But what kinda exhaust do you got? It sounds amazing. Mines still stock but if I can get it to sound like yours id definitely do it lol
Where did you get that valve spring tool? thanks
Beautiful
Why didn’t you pull the motor then remove the heads if you was going to pull it out anyway ?
What all is required when putting in a stage 3 cam? Anything other than valve springs? Thanks
Can you give us any tips for installing the injectors?
Part numbers for injectors and gaskets.
When replaced the gaskets want to just fall off the injectors and had to re-do the injector install several times
What after market cam would you recommend without having to change the torque converter?
Your best bet is to call BTR or GPI and speak with one of their sales specialists. They are extremely knowledgeable when it comes to different applications and what cam specs would work best for your setup. Just give them a call!
@@ChrisVaughnTech
Hey I'm in the middle of doing the AFM DOD delete with the Texas speed kit and stage 2 cam on my 2017 l86 Yukon Denali and I'm been curious if you know of or has anybody done a port injection with the direct injection together similar to the 5.0 mustangs that way it'll get rid of the carbon buildup on the valves?
Did you have to remove the oil pump to get the timing chain off or did you use the scre driver method?
Quick question is it necessary to pull the motor for the cam swap or why did you pull it I am planning to cam my 2017 Silverado my self I don’t want to fuck up lol some advice would be great thanks
Which cam was installed??
Can I get a parts list for this complete swap please sir. It sounds amazing..
Did you have any issues with tuning? Mine doesn't idle that good, ecceleration isn't that good and engine dies at low speed,in parking lot or pulling in the driveway
What mpg are you getting with dod delete
Doesn't really matter considering it has a fat cam in it lmao
So how much would something like this cost
Great video series I followed your cam swap series and they were a great help in installing my cam on my 15 Sierra l83. I recently finished everything up had my ECM tuned and I am getting error codes for coil control circuit on cylinders 1,3 and 5 I’ve moved plugs and wires around checked for loose connections including the two grounds on the drivers side head. Just curious if you had heard of anything like this or had any insight to what could be going on? Thanks again for the great videos.
Usually a circuit control code indicates some sort of wiring issue. I would double and triple check all wiring because most likely there is a pinched or broken wire somewhere or maybe even a loose ground somewhere. Try swapping coils between the banks and see if the problem moves or stays on that bank. That will help barrow it down to the PCM or wiring
Specifically check all the wiring going to the coils on that bank. Trace the wires back as far as possible. You may have to unwrap the wires unfortunately to do so. There are quite a few tests you can perform as well if you have a voltmeter. Just post the specific codes you are getting and I'll see what I can find.
@@ChrisVaughnTech thanks for the reply, I’m getting p0300, p0351,P0353 and P0355. I will swap the coils across bank and plan on taking the intake manifold Back off this weekend to check on the harness better.
Hello, I found a nicked wire on cylinder 2 coil plug removed intake manifold tightened grounds and refitted injector and high pressure fuel pump plugs no more codes went for test drive noticed slight misfire engine light flashes under load then goes back off again.
No codes found in system I used another code reader with the same result and I’ve driven with mine plugged in and it won’t pick up any codes 02 sensors still read not ready
Question. Why'd you swap the cam with the engine in the bay then pull the motor? I know you know it's easier on a stand I'm just curious. Great vid tho!
Originally we planned to do the entire job without pulling the engine but made the call halfway through to pull it. You can technically do this job without pulling the engine but it takes some skill to get the chain and cam gear on and off and to verify the timing marks are aligned.
@@ChrisVaughnTech quality work from quality people. Thanks, Chris.
Hey looking to do a cam swap in my 17 Silverado. Wondering you cam and parts you installed on this?
Did you use oem valley cover and just plugged everything?
Did you do the swap with the engine still in the truck?
Do y’all do these as installments or this just for a buddy or yourself?
Like a quote to have this done
This was one of the first cam swaps I've done on a Gen 5 engine. It was completed for a customer at a performance shop that I worked with but I hope to be offering this service on gen 5 engines soon!
Do you need after market lifters or did you use the the stock ones??
The lifters have to be changed from the AFM style to the regular style. Or you can use aftermarket high end lifters as well.
If you are trying to save a few dollars, then don’t doing.
You really need to change lifters, valve springs when doing a camshaft swap no matter what, but this is my personal opinion tho
@@reyperez3424 why change the valve springs if your gonna use the same cam specs?
Sounds good where you located
Did you have to tune it before firing it up?
How many hours? Cost?
Is there a difference between a 2016 and 2017 delete???
Why engine have to come out ?
You have a full video ?
Did you remove radiator and condenser?
I’m in Dallas TX, where can I get this done?
How did you pull out out the cam sprocket without pulling the oil pump off?!
So there are two ways to go about it. The way I chose to do it in the video is completely remove the engine and pull the oil pump, oil pan, and do everything.
If you want to do it without removing the oil pan or the oil pump it's a tough job. You have to loosen the bolts to the oil pump and try to give just enough clearance to walk the chain off the cam sprocket without removing the oil pump. It can be done and I've seen it done but it's a very tricky job with the oil pump still on
Thank man! Really appreciate it
How much to get this done if I have a mechanic do it?
Hey man I gotta know what stage and style cam is that
In comparison to a bone stock 5.3, how reliable is this with the new cam? My 16 5.3 runs fine but I don’t want the AFM system to grenade, and if I deleted the AFM and installed a thumpy cam the only thing that’s holding me back is not knowing what happens down the road, 10k/20k/30k miles how well is it holding up? What does it do to fuel consumption? I already get 9.5mpg. Torque converter? Gears? Would like to hear recommendations
It's a little hard to say what kind of reliability you would have because it's heavily dependent on quite a few factors. Deleting the AFM system would likely increase reliability by removing those troublesome parts but you would have to make sure that what is installed in their place are quality parts and they are installed properly.
In my opinion, if you're looking for longevity & reliability, I would delete the AFM system completely and install a very mild cam with all the supporting mods. I can't stress how important it is to choose quality lifters and make sure you have the proper length pushrods to create the correct lifter preload. I recommend the Johnson 2110 lifters or if you can step up to a pair of link bar lifters that would be ideal. The plastic lifter trays easily wear out and cause problems. Eliminating them would add reliability. From there you just need to get a proper street tune from someone experienced.
You shouldn't need to mess with converter or gears as long as you keep the cam specs mild
@@ChrisVaughnTech awesome. I appreciate the response. I think that’s the route I’m going to end up going. Mild and reliable.
@@ChrisVaughnTech what are the cons of deleting the afm system without changing the cam
@@orogold330 you can't delete the system without swapping the cam. You can disable it in the ECM but that's not a delete.
@@ChrisVaughnTech is there still any benefit from deleting it from the ecu
Anyone know the price tag on this? Looking to get it done
(do not wano get ripped off)
Guess that's a no lol. I'm curious to as want my 17 done.
If you buy a mild cam, and only do a cam swap, you’re looking at around 300-500 for a cam, and probably close to 1000k in labor. If you have a buddy, that’s mechanically inclined it’s no rocket science.
Does it kill your gas mileage?
In my experience a dod delete will increase fuel economy.
How much for parts and labor?
Afm bombed on me dropped a cylinder 7 lifter so I’m doing a full dod delete and this same cam in my 16 Silverado in about 2 weekends
My 14’ took a dump on cylinder 6,same issue,worn cam and AFM lifter
@@protecaodivina23 I’ve always been a Chevy guy but bit the bullet and bought a 2019 ram 1500 with the hemi Saturday. And damn I’m loving it so far. I did end up doing a rebuild on the Chevy before trading it in tho
@@bloncomike my cousin has a Ram limited,and yes they are very nice,wish GM would get their head out their ass and make quality work again lol
What the total cost of this?
Can you do this on a 2020 Silverado?
what cam? and did you need to tune the ecu with that cam swap?
It was a Texas Speed stage 3 can I believe and yes you always need a re-tune on the ECU when swapping a Cam.
@@ChrisVaughnTech not always there is some mild cams that don't necessarily need a tune
@@MichaelWittner
😂 🤡
Even stock engines need a tune
@@reyperez3424 lol well thats a rabbit hole we can go down
When doing the delete with a delete cam can I tune with edge programer or do I have to get a custom tune??
That really just depends on the tuner. I think it's possible to do with a handheld but definitely not ideal. The best way is to have it street tuned by a reputable tuner who has experience with this platform. Trust me it's money well spent
How many hours did this take
This one took about two days but that's because I took my time and really documented the process. This was one of the first cam swaps I completed on a Gen 5 engine so I was very careful and meticulous to make sure it was done properly.
@@ChrisVaughnTech I appreciate the reply so it would take me about 4 days lol
@@kjam87gxp it's definitely not as easy as a cam swap on the 3rd or 4th gen LS motors. Those are much easier. This is very time consuming and usually requires the engine to be pulled to do properly. It is possible to do this job without pulling the motor but I found it to be faster and easier to just pull the engine out.
@@ChrisVaughnTech I am by no means a mechanic but am mechanically inclined. I want to do this but don't want to mess anything up.
Couple days I’m on month but it was my first time and I did everything. Pulled engine, cleaned down to nothing, drained everything including transmission. Built custom
Dual exhaust still finishing, swapped struts bilsteins 5100 and eibach 2.50 lift springs, painted entire engine, the block, covers, coils everything, long tube headers, new tires.. it’s been quite a journey I just need to weld stock cats that I power washed threw for emission on the down pipe.. I wanted to port the heads but decided against it and also modified air intake with another 3 inch hole coming out the bottom.. if I did it again it take half the time but first time just double check take time
How much to do a build similar.
sooo......did you need to pull the engine to handle the timing chain, or did you do that one on another engine on the stand for the video?
You don't technically have to pull the engine but it makes the process a lot easier so that's what I chose to do.
@@ChrisVaughnTech i had asked because i'm in the process of replacing a wiped cam in a 16 tahoe ppv 4x4. i can't see a way to lower the pan, and i can't see a way to get the pump off without lowering the pan. this started off as just needing new lifters on the p/s bank, but as luck would have it the cam's toast.
@@1ltcap lol you are running into the same exact problem that I ran into. The main issue is that you can't get the chain off of the cam sprocket with the oil pump still bolted on. You can loosen the oil pump bolts slightly and some people are able to get the chain off by doing it that way. But the issue with that is that it becomes very hard to align the chain and make sure that your timing marks are correct when you put it back together. So I chose to pull the engine just to make sure everything was completely correct that the timing was right and that there were going to be no leaks or issues after the job. I know you probably don't want to hear this but you should just go ahead and pull the engine and it will make the whole job easier
@@1ltcap even if you could lower the pan, you would have to reseal the pan with rtv. These don't use easy pan gaskets. You have to RTV everything
@@ChrisVaughnTech you are correct, i don't want to hear that, lolol. that said.....it's pretty much what i needed to hear though, and i appreciate that video, and your advice. i'll be pulling it next week as soon as i've caught up on all the work i've been pushing back to deal with this.
thank you sir.
Hello, What Valve Spring tool?
I can't remember where they came from but if you search on google for valve spring tool you will find them.
That’s badass 🥲🙃I want mine done now. Do you know what kind of headers those are?
I believe they came from Texas Speed
no pcm flash needed?
Yes the PCM will have to be street or Dyno tuned by someone knowledgeable
Okay so to cam my L83 Silverado what al l do I need to actual buy? Just a stage 3 camshaft for example or do I need to buy other things too
You need quite a few things including the complete AFM delete kit
When you cammed it did you tune it up
Anytime you swap cams the engine needs to be re-tuned.
Thanks man
How much does something like that realistically run? Wanting to do same to my ‘16
About $3k in labor plus parts
What size lift is that?
What cam?
I can hear a KNOCK!!!!!!!!!!!!
Can this be done with out pulling the engine?
Good vid man, is it necessary to pull the block to swap the cam? I cammed a 99 C5 vet years back. I’m putting a TSP stage 1 in my 15 Sierra. Just wondering I’ve watch a couple vids on this and everyone is pulling the short block. Thanks
It's not 100% necessary to pull the block. Some techs have some fancy ways of working the chain off the cam gear and getting it back on but unless you are very familiar with that process you are almost certainly going to end up pulling the block. There is a way to simply loosen the oil pump bolts without removing it completely and that can sometimes give enough room to swap the cam and gear without removing the oil pump. If you can do that then you may be able to avoid pulling the block. My biggest issue was that you still cannot see behind the oil pump well enough to line up the gears with any degree of certainty. So as most others do I chose to pull the block just to make sure everything was perfect
@@ChrisVaughnTech thanks for the response man, I appreciate it.
@@ChrisVaughnTech
This guy knows what he’s doing, that’s the best way to do things right
How much HP gain
I'm not too sure. We didn't usually dyno trucks of this size. Typically a full cam swap job, tune and few other supporting mods should get you 100hp gain
@@ChrisVaughnTech how much would you guys charge for this service?
What kind of exhaust is it?
Texas speed
Hey I would like to know more about this. Can you give me a call sometime because I’ve been trying to mod my teuck but I don’t want to mess it up
Usually I try to steer clear of giving any advice over the phone. Your best bet would be to call BTR, GPI or Texas Speed and talk to them. They literally have people for that exact reason who know exactly what you need and can help you order the correct parts for your build. Just give them a call.
@@ChrisVaughnTech thank you so much sir
Who did the tune ?
Justin Daniels @ Precision Speed Technology
To do this on my 2020 that has a l83 as I am in Fl. What would your back log look like . What kind of notice do you need to have the spot open ? . Then I also have the L86 6.2 I was planning on putting in my 08 z71 . I was reading the comments below and you had mentioned that it was easier to pull to motor to do the work if that is true my planes will change. Cam delete the DOD maybe some head work to the 6.2 as it is on the stand. Then pull the 5.3 replace it with the done 6.2 tune it … I like it ? Then we can run throw the 5.3 put in my 08 ???
Send me a message here or on Facebook and let's chat. I'm only working on dealer inventory at the moment but we may be able to work something out
What is DOD?
@Lorenzo Displacement On Demand
what cam is this?
I believe it was a Texas speed stage 2 or 3 cam for the L83 engine.
Texas speed, BTR, and GPI are all good options. You can simply call them and they will go over your setup and needs and recommend the perfect package
My 14 Silverado was misfiring on cylinder 6,sure enough once my cousin who works at a gmc as a tech opened the motor,the cam and lifter is damaged and he says it’s mainly because of the idiocy of the AFM,so now I’m pondering a delete kit and a mild cam but idk if I should lol
Yes you should. Reinstalling the OEM parts is just asking for another failure as the AFM lifters are prone to failure.
@@ChrisVaughnTech what size cam would be good as a mild cam,nothing aggressive but enough to hear it chop lol
@@protecaodivina23 Give BTR or TSP a call and they can tell you all you need to know and get you a package together that suits your exact needs. They are experts at putting those packages together. Just give them a call
Sounds good man,thanks for your time.
What’s was the cost? And what all did you order?
Where is you're shop located
The shop that this work was performed at is located in Southwest Florida. I completed this job while working there but I hope to have my own shop up and running soon!
@@ChrisVaughnTech can you let me know of any shops or mechanics near gainesville or jacksonville please thank you
I see you forgot to mark everything to time it without pulling the motor out
That's not at all why I pulled the engine. The oil pan and oil pump needed to come off for this one so we made the choice to pull it and do all gaskets at the same time.
@@ChrisVaughnTech oh alrite i just thought that happened but keep up the good work bro 💯💪
@@nokchevy1 setting the timing on these engines is super easy. It's just two marks and you align them so that's not an issue at all. The problem was that the oil pump needed to be removed and to do that you have to remove the oil pan. The oil pan on these engines is RTV sealed so in order to install the pan and seal it correctly you pretty much have to pull the engine to do it properly. So that's what we did
@ChrisVaughnTech Why did the oil pump need to be removed, is that part of this procedure or was it unrelated?
@K0NFUZE you don't have to remove the pump to cam it but you do need to mark everything since you can't see the timing mark on the crank Sprocket if you don't mark it and it moves now you have to pull the pan to take the oil pump out and time it
What cam lifters and springs did you use
It was a TSP stage 3 cam I believe with TSP PAC dual valve springs
Sounds awsome nice work
all you can see in your video was your hat
What is the head bolts torqued at?
What does this cost ?