Heating Element Repair / 858 Heating Tool
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- Опубликовано: 19 апр 2021
- This video shows the replacement of the heating element/thermocouple in the hand piece of the popular 858 series heat gun. I obtained the replacement unit here
www.ebay.com/i...
Tips for anyone else doing this: make sure to order a heating element that includes the outer insulation. Some are sold without it. Also check that the voltage is correct for your unit. Lastly, be careful when disassembling the handle because the ground wire may be spot welded to the metal shaft and can break off easily.
The paper in mine disintegrated when I pulled it out. Where can I get it or do I even need it.
Thanks for the explanation about the heat sensor. The leads pass continuity check so I would have thought there wasn't polarity. Would it matter if polarity was reversed? If -.2mV was sent to the base instead of .2mV would the circuit still read the temperature correctly?
As for the power, one wire is connected to the top of the coil and the other the bottom, so measuring the resistance between the two wires should give between 20 and 30 ohms. I can't think of any reason for the polarity to matter in this case but maybe I'm wrong.
I've dropped the gun twice and it's fell on the floor, the caddy arrangement is poor, thinking of 3d printing something better.
Anyway on the 2nd drop it had failed like yours, upon disassembly the paper and element were in pieces, I ordered a replacement element from China, it arrived in an envelope without packing, surprisingly it was ok. Unfortunately the mica insulation paper was not included, I have ordered some.
What I noticed when ordering is that there appears to be other models of gun that used far more robust elements, some actually cost less than the element for this model, it would be good to know what element fits what unit, because I feel this model will require attention far too often? It's such a handy go to device, not just for electronics but for odd heating jobs, melting/joining screw posts etc.
Hey just a random suggestion, not soldering related but if you buy l-arginine from Walmart and take it daily it will improve blood flow and help steady your hands.
Thanks, I will try that.
Steve
My element is extremely hot. Within few seconds turns red makes me to disconnect power supply. What might be the problem
Are you kidding me?this is normal
Your hot air gun's blower is built into the handle which is near the heating element. This causes the blower to overheat and malfunction, creating more even more heat as it snowballs into a full blown meltdown. See Dave Jones video. I would replace it with a unit that has the air pump built inside the housing or you'll be scraping Chinese corium from your work desk.
The blower takes in cool air and forces it forward through the handle, cooling the wires before the air reaches and then passes into the heating element. I have not ever had a blower failure, only heating elements.
Thanks
Steve
I have this exact same unit, I have little to no experience using it, yesterday I used this unit with a tiny nozzle to remove a small ic, the tiny nozzle could not let the heat escape quickly enough, I could hear crackling in the handle so I turned it off immediately, heat built up in the metal part and it was glowing red hot, the plastic started to melt and was smoking, I had to keep the handle in an upright position until the handle had cooled down and the plastic solidified, the metal part was moving around as if it had no support
Today I checked to see if it was still working, it’s working but no hot air, hence why I am here watching and learning to see if I can dismantle it to see if it safe to repair, the black plastic which you unscrewed is really stiff on mines, I think it’s melted together
Update: I’ve managed to dismantle the handle, it doesn’t look too bad, should be repairable, where did you buy the heating element, do you have a link? Thanks, I’ve liked and subbed
@@darattaqwa Don't sink anymore money into that murder wand. Get another hot air station with the pump inside the housing. They're safer and quieter and produce good consistent heat. You can save your nozzles and use it on them. I recommend Aoyue or some other brand. If you look hard enough on eBay or Amazon, you can buy a used one for less than $100.
@@bobweiram6321 thanks Bob, I literally hesitantly placed an order for an 8586 (next model up from 858D) few mins before i read your message, I’ve requested to cancel so I can buy a used aoyue 852a+ for £46 + £8 postage (the brand new 8586 was £32 inc postage), to be honest the handle on my 858D should never have got red hot, melted the handle and not switch itself off for safety! I only had the unit on for approx 2-3 mins, the handle is melted and beyond repair
@@darattaqwa You're going to be way happier with it and you can always resell it for something when you decide to upgrade. Let us know how it works out,
How do you remove the tips?
Mine came with a black pencil shaped piece of plastic and a bit of wire. What are those for?
I don't know, mine did not come with anything like that.
Good Luck
Steve
@@stevestrivia-bystevewagner4852 I got my tip off with a lot of force and a large pair of pliers. As for the extra pieces included with the unit, I think those are for removing ICs.
How about error code H-E...
Which one component i must check to...
Sorry, I ave no idea.
Steve
H-E is a heat element error...check that voltage is being output at the pcb when you test it it will tell you which way to look for the problem.....p.s. you need to be measuring for voltage as soon as you turn it on because once the error show it cuts the output, and be careful when measuring there's mains voltage connections in there
@@Bimmer_MD ok thank's for advice sir...
I have check the heating element, the outer of cable is broke n connect with other on inside of handle...
How did you get it apart?
Push, Pull and generally felt like t was going to break, Good Luck!
Steve