I am a hobbyist, and every time I see new videos from you I get motivated to do some soldering. 🙂 I really like the style of these videos, the editing and the quality of the work.
Hi , thank you for your comment and your support of my channel , it really is appreciated . If the videos can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
Long ago i started pre-heating my boards with a homemade heater. (PID controlled of course). Once heated to 100c, it really makes component removal or replacement easy. I typically use Kapton to hold larger components from moving while installing a new component or to hold a small board in a custom made heat plate (think Intel CPUs which I repair a lot of). Well made and informative video. Thank you.
Another superb heat shield is ceramic fibre insulation board typically used in furnaces up to 1500 degC. It’s about £15 for A4 x 20mm thick and will last a lifetime. With care you can cut it into thin strips about 2mm thick. It’s fragile and not good for your lungs in this state. I paint it with sodium silicate (waterglass, cheap to buy) and heat to 150 deg C to turn the surface into glass which makes it very strong.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . It's always good to receive other product information , the more choices we have the better . Thanks again , take care 👍
Fiber ceramics are too heavy for this use. I think aluminum foil is more than enough. Thank you very much for your Thank you very much for your Thank you very much for your advice. 🌹
@@mrsolderfix3996 those are not proper nozzles for qfp and other smd , have to move the nozzle a lot , they are suitable for bga. I know better nozzles for smd resistors , qfp
Thank you for these videos. I do some work on old video game consoles and watching your techniques have made me better and more confident when removing chips with many tiny legs. Your videos have made me better at my hobby.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very kind of you . I'm glad you have found the videos of use that's great to hear . Thanks again , take care 👍
I enjoy watching your technique when using soldering equipment. Every time you release a new video i find i have to watch it. Cause i always learn new and interesting techniques to at to my soldering skills. Thanks and keep the videos streaming!
Hi , thank you for your continued support of my channel , it really is appreciated . I find it inspires me when I see people like yourself returning to watch my latest videos so thank you once again 👍
I've had the best results with kapton tape when I left an air gap between the plastic bit I wanted to protect and the component I was desoldering. Not everytime you can have that kind of room to leave an air gap tho, thanks for the tip with the aluminium tape! I guess I can try doing that with just a normal aluiminium sheet for baking, it has no glue but it should hold just fine.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video , that's great to hear 👍
6 месяцев назад+3
Why didn't i thought of that. Thanks for the tip. Aluminium foil tape is also used in vapour-tight house isolation, so a roll should be not too expensive.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel, and commenting, very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoy the videos and find them useful , that's great to hear . If I can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then I'm happy . Thanks again and good luck with all your projects 👍
I only occasionally solder for really rudimentary tasks. But I love watching your good resolution videos and detailed narration. Makes it easy to understand and gives me courage (in my head) to try some more difficult tasks. If only my eyes were what they used to be. Thank you for sharing.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , much appreciated . I'm glad the videos have helped you with your soldering , that's great to hear . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you so much for your support of my channel and for recommending me to others , I really appreciate it . If my videos can help a few people out then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and supporting my channel , your time is very much appreciated . If I can help a few people out then I'm happy . Thanks again , take care 👍
You might remember me asking advices on how to solder capacitors recapping an old boombox of mine. I fixed it. Thank you for the advices mate! PS: I also laser cut four gears (two pairs for each deck), did some filing too, and now both the cassette decks work.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I'm glad you found the video useful and glad you fixed your problem . If we can all help each other then that would be great . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your support , hopefully I can help a few people out . I just like passing on what I've learnt , if it's useful then happy days . Thanks again 👍
Thanks so much for your work on these videos. I know how time consuming it can be. The quality of video and still images is superb and your lecture style is just right. The naughty boy in me had to smile at your comment at 30m 37sec "...a nice pair of separated pins..." every man's dream! 🤣
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . Hopefully my channel can help a few people out , if it can then that's great . I dont post that many videos but will always put more on when I get some spare time . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video that's nice to hear . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I have got used to lead free solder nowadays , it is definitely better to work with than when I first used it about 15 years ago . I use one from a company based in England called BLT Circuits . It is SN100SB . It's a great lead free solder and comes in different widths right down to 0.25mm. Also it's a great price compared to some of the big companies like Farnell , RS Components etc . So it's not as bad as people think these days , just up your temperature by about 30 to 40 degrees Celsius and you should be ok . Thanks again , take care 👍
I tend to use kapton tape so I'll give foil a go, seems like it would dissipate heat better than Kapton, When lifting ICs I'll sometime use a tiny bit of leverged upward pressure using a cocktail stick,
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I used only Kapton tape for many years and then reluctantly changed , but I'm so pleased I did because rework is so much safer now for me . Hopefully if you do try the foil you find it much better like I did . Thanks again and good luck 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and for supporting my channel , very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed it , hopefully it can help a few people out . Thanks again , take care 👍
Awesome job on the QFP lift! Super clean! I love all the display that you do! I am guessing that you used a larger tip on the QFP lift to spread heat over a larger area. Always the best on YT regards rework.... I am sold on a hot air tool, checking ebay now....
Hi , thank you for watching the video and supporting my channel , very much appreciated . Yes you are correct . I vary the size of the nozzles I use on my hot air station to suit the size of component being worked on . Occasionally I may leave a smaller one on than I really need if I'm worried about too much heat spreading elsewhere and affecting maybe plastic connectors . Aluminium foil tape is a must if you do decide to purchase a station . Hopefully my videos can help you out here . Thanks again , take care 👍
Brillient demo my friend. Shorts after soldering. You'll find using solder mop to remove blop and solder those pins with fine tip soldering iron much better we find. God bless
Hi , thank you for your comment . Difficult on this one , joint was attached to a plane sucking the heat away as I mentioned in the video . Normally I would do as you said but wouldn't work here . Thanks again 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I have posted some very basic videos on my channel , I have tried to cover from basic stuff to more complicated stuff but I will do more basic ones in the near future , thanks for the suggestion 👍
Very interesting and informative video, thank you. If I were doing that I'd have everything de-soldered and burnt!! You make it look so easy. Thank you again for your videos.
I thank you for this as I have some smd stuff to change and was wondering if the kapton tape was ok and low and behold your video drops. I have two different thicknesses of foil tape so it looks like I will try both. Thanks again.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . The foil tape is definitely more protective so I hope you get on ok with your project. Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Hi yes tried both thicknesses the thinner was fine in getting into corners and gaps but it was an absolute nightmare to get off. The thicker tape great , it two seconds more effort to get into gaps but it just came off in one piece. Both traps worked very well it the removal thar was a problem. That maybe due to the glue they used. Which is very sticky on the thin tape. I think the thicker one is 3M no markings on the thin one. Thank you for your reply.
Un detalle compañero....¿por qué no utiliza usted Flux para facilitar la desoldadura?....Gracias por su aportación a la comunidad....Le mando un fuerte abrazo desde Las Islas Canarias (España).....
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very kind of you . I think I mentioned that I did add flux to aid with desoldering , it's just what I personally do , others don't bother with this , but I believe it helps . Thank you again for your time , take care 👍
Hi , thank you so much for your support of my channel , very kind of you . If my channel can help a few people out with their soldering issues then I'm happy . Thanks again for your kindness , take care 👍
Hi , yes it looks like some suppliers include straight nozzles and others include angled nozzles . I guess people have to shop around and order the type they want . Thanks for your comment .
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I would buy the AT500 type or the AT502 type , in that order . Plenty of places sell it online , shop around as big price differences . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Hi thank you for the great desoldering tips. I have an Adat port that I’m trying to desolder from a PCB, I will try and check more videos but it seems to be a tricky one. Should I use flux and wick to remove as I do not own a heat gun? I tried to use a suction gun but it was tricky. Mind you I didn’t have any flux at the time so maybe when that arrives tomorrow it might work. Best, Al
Hi , thank you for your comment . This is what I've said in my videos , Kaptons good for some jobs , Aluminium foil is good for others . I just try and get across mainly that the foil is better when using hot air . Thanks again 👍
I hardly ever subscribed to any channel, not sure why though but, sub'ing to your channel was a very easy and quick decision. Keep up the good work, sir! Are you by any chance the same gentleman who runs the "Learn Electronics Repair" channel?
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated . No I am not the person who does the Other channel you mention , sorry . Thanks again , take care 👍
Interesting video. I picked up some tips from you. Now need to try the techniques One question what sort of solder flux you use for soldering the ics and link to buy it. Thank you for sharing.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting . Both the tapes I talked about , the Advance + 3M makes leave very minimal or no adhesive behind at all . If there is any I just use ULTRASOLVE ( PCB cleaning fluid ) to clean off , which it does easily . Thanks again 👍
Excellent video, I got an Atten 5 months ago that is very similar to the device you are using. Good station makes a lot of difference. Thanks for sharing. One question: In the first half you shared the hot air station settings (speed and temperature). In the second half you mentioned only temperature. Was the speed the same (90)?
Hi Mate, thank you for your time making this video, would it be possible to share in the description some more details on the Advance tape please? I can see on RS there are few of them not sure which is you have used in your video. Also to note that all of them I can see including the 3M tape have a rating of max 149c heat whilst the capton tape alleges it's over 350c, I know from my own experience that capton do as-you-said break under heat, anyway, thanks again hope to hear from you soon, cheers
Hi , thank you for your comment . I either use Advance AT500 or 502 tapes . They are both very good for PCB rework and I personally have applied crazy temperatures to them when doing rework of over 400 degrees Celsius with no problems . Definitely use foil tape rather than Kapton that's the message I try to get over to people . Thanks again 👍
Thanks for your videos Iam a starter with airguns and i am no good😂 I think I've got the wrong stuff, what do you recommend for paste and flux because there is so many I am doing(trying) very small stuff Gr Michel from holland
What setting do you use for airflow on your hot air station? I find if I don't set mine very low, I will often blow components right off the board - especially if it's just a little SMD resistor or capacitor. I'll have to try some of that aluminum tape, that's a great idea.
Very interesting, thank you. I've always felt Kapton tape is a dubious and I've seen max temps of 280c through to 500c. Out of curiosity if you wanted to keep the IC working what would be the max temperature, 380c is too hot?
Hi , I have removed and reused IC's at 380 degrees Celsius and they have still worked fine. I'm not saying all types of IC's will work but the ones I've had to remove and replace due to polarity issues have been fine . In fact I believe I've used 400 degrees Celsius before and been ok . I guess if you have no spares and need to rework the one you have then definitely try it . Thanks for your comment 👍
Hi , thank you so much for your kind support of my channel , it really is appreciated . It's always nice when I see familiar names returning to view my videos , it keeps me motivated to keep posting. Thanks again , take care 😊
Hi, great video there, i wanna ask about how you desolder components from a multilayer board as the solder cant melt at all even with high temperature hot air
Good job, the only thing I am missing is the exact settings on your hot air station. You mentioned some temperatures but no settings on the air flow (or did I miss that?). I have the same rework station and my air flow is mostly arround 30-35. For temperature it depends a little but I am mostly between 320-370.
Hi Mr. SolderFix, I have a quick question: Should I preheat the board and the SMD components to 200°C before proceeding to 400°C for desoldering with hot air? Or should I go straight to 400°C for desoldering? I've heard that to avoid thermal shock, it's better to preheat the board first. However, some sources suggest using high heat for a short amount of time rather than keeping it at high heat for a prolonged period. I'm still looking for an answer, but no one has responded to me yet. I’ve even tried asking other RUclips channels about this matter, but they haven’t replied either. I'm really confused about which approach I should follow.
@@mrsolderfix3996 Apologies for my confusing post. My request above is kind of irrelevant to your video here. I have seen a number of your solder wicking videos, which I presume were using leaded solder. I find it very challenging to wick lead-free solder even at very high iron temperatures. Do you have any good tips?
Hi , in my videos I just use whatever boards I have , some are leaded , some are lead free . If I'm struggling with lead free wicking the main thing I try is to pre heat the area with the heat gun like I've shown in this video . Lead free solder then becomes much easier to wick off .Works well doing this . I know some people who cheat a bit and blend a bit of leaded in but shouldn't really do that . Add flux to your wick as well . That's really all I do , add localised heat in first to the area . Thanks again , good luck 👍
If you dont want to scratch PCB use plastic tweezers :) or a plastic spudger they are cheap and useful at times :) especially if you have customer that complains about every little scratch
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I use metal or plastic tweezers to push foil tape down ( these are just what I had nearby ), the tape is very protective of the board so if careful scratches will never occur . In lots of my videos I show flux applications using a plastic cable tie , as I am very mindful of damage that can occur at times with metal tweezers . But you are right ,plastic tweezers are very useful at times . Thanks again , take care 👍
One thing I don’t like about Kapton tape: if flux gets near it, it will get loose from the board and might take with it everything attached to it. It happened to me once.
Hi , you are perfectly correct , I'm glad you mentioned this about Kapton . It has happened to me in the past and probably everyone else who has used it . Hopefully people try foil and get good results . Thanks again 👍
Can we have a model or part number of the Advance tape you use? I used aluminum duct tape on a project and it protected the near parts, but when I pulled the tape off it left a messy glue. I used denatured alcohol to get it cleaned up but I would like to find the same tape you used. There are a multitude of Advanced tapes. Could you provide a little more information regarding the tapes. Video is very informative.
Do you have a playlist that could take a complete noob from basic soldering, TH work up to SMT rework like this? I have embedded software engineeers that need fewer fish handed to them but more fishing lessons.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I do have a few basic soldering videos on my channel showing simple though hole stuff and other basic methods . I try to show a bit of everything but I will do more basic ones in the future for sure . Thanks again , take care 👍
if you are in the market pick the one that you can buy spare elements for or at least have service. All dry air elements have limited lifespan due to oxidation.
Hi , thank you for your comment That's why I love this station , easy to get spares for and works so well . I've had this rework station at least 7 years , never had to change the heater element yet but I do know if it does fail I can get a replacement part . Thanks again , take care 👍
I really like watching electronics work and your shots are just gorgeous and a pleasure to follow along. I'm not a practitioner yet but imagine it would be easier to heat shield around only the part worked at, instead of guessing which ones around it is at risk of getting damaged? (25:32) Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . It was good of you to mention the connector nearby that got slightly melted . I wasn't particularly concerned what happened to this connector when I used the heat gun next to it to remove the IC . It was good that it actually melted to prove a point that you should protect your parts and remember from earlier in the video use the foil method . White connectors generally melt really easy as you saw . My usual method is to protect everything around the part being removed , but especially connectors . Thanks again , take care 👍
Could you make a video on how to desolder a mini pci-e slot from laptops etc,because i am stuck with 2 boards where i have to transfer one to the other and i don't have access to parts or replacements,i can desolder with a soldering iron and hot air so you can choose.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting . You do get a feeling for what size nozzle you need the more you do hot air rework . I started with the smallest nozzle , then when I did the QFP i used the next size up . I could have used even bigger but it would have blocked the camera view . The smallest size is definitely the one I use the most as so many components can be removed with this size , i.e resistors , capacitors, small IC's and small SOT 23's . Hope this helps a little . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996The issue with smaller sizes is that airspeed goes up and they might blow away components. Sure not an issue if you can protect everything around with tape.
@@AladimBR hi , with the Quick861 model I use you can turn the air speed down to basically zero so working on small devices using hot air is still pretty easy without them blowing away . Some people use sticky flux to help hold their parts in place . I find if you use normal liquid flux like I do if you hold the part with tweezers just briefly then take your tweezers away and the part stays there until flowing occurs . Thanks again. For your comment 👍
G, day from Sydney Australia. Thanks for protection tips. I was thinking of using a paint heat gun with a reduction tip/nozzle (if it will fit). Solder paste: whats the difference between solder and flux? 🌏🇦🇺
You need a precise control of the temperature on the area you're work on, that paint heat guns don't offer. Some works are possible with these heat guns, using distance to control, but I never tried that. There are some precise heat guns , i use a Steinel HG2320E at work for heatshrink tubes for example. You also need precise control of the location you're heating, so paint heat gun handling may not be as easy as the Quick (or equivalent) station. Flux is a product (rosin, for example) that helps the solder flowing towards the board pad and the component pin. Solder paste : small solder balls within lots of gel flux.
Hi , I personally have done rework on mobile phone boards using foil tape and they have been ok afterwards . So from my own experience I would say yes 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment . I do occasionally in my day job need to add heat using a hot plate . Normally heat the board up to between 80 and 100 degrees Celsius and then carry out the rework . Hobbyists probably won't have hot plates at home due to costs so that's why I showed the local hot gun method to add some extra heat as you can get fairly cheap hot air guns Thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you. For a hobbyist, do you think it would be an ok idea to stuck the board (say a multilayer PCB with a big ground plane) in the over for 15 min at 80-100°C (checked with a thermocouple)? Then place it on a silicone mat and complete the rework quickly
@NicksStuff hi , you should be ok at 80 to 100 degrees Celsius , but try 80 first of all . I would definitely give the oven a good airing before you do any cooking again as there may be fumes from fluxes , glues etc that may have been on the boards . Just keep an eye on the board during the 15 minutes . Good luck 🤞
On the first half of the video, when you removed the IC between the connectors: the components around were in place, but it looked to me that their solder was affected, needing a quick reflow with new flux. Was it the case?
Hi , the surrounding components were still in perfect condition after the IC was removed with no reflowing necessary . The Electrolytic Capacitor that was missing just behind the foiled connector was already missing before we started . This was a lead free solder board which I'm sure I mentioned so naturally the joints look duller anyway than if it was leaded solder . This is also why it took a bit longer than normal to remove . Thanks for your comment 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment . On the hot air station I use , the Quick 861DA it's really easy . It comes with a small spanner that fits on the nozzle perfectly . You simply turn the nozzle a few milimetres anti clockwise until the nozzle lugs line up with the cut outs in the end of the metal shaft . Then simply pull it straight out . Fitting a different nozzle is everything just mentioned but in reverse . It's very easy . Hope that helps , thanks again for your support , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996Thank you. I have another question, this time about the aluminum tape. Does it ever leave a sticky residue or does it peel off pretty clean?
Total noob question here - I've removed surface mount components before by using solder wick to remove all the solder on the pins and then they fall off or can be lifted off with very little force (going back in with the wick if they still don't come away easily). When/why would you prefer using hot air over this method of removal?
Hi , thank you for your comment Your method is very risky . There will definitely be times doing it your way when you will lift pads due to not wicking all of the solder from underneath pins . A safer way is definitely hot air or if I was doing it the way you do I would slightly lift up the pin by heating it first and getting a fine tweezer point behind it . Once slightly lifted you can then wick out the solder totally . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi thank you for your comment . The method you described I have actually shown in a couple of my other videos on my channel . I never cut using cutters though as this can stress the pads . I always gently score through with a sharp scalpel blade . Works great and gives no stress to the pads as you are always pressing downwards. Thanks again 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment . From what I've experienced in the past you may have your air flow speed a little high . You've probably tried turning it down but if not it's worth a go . Once the initial heat is applied after a few seconds the component tends to stay there even before flowing occurs . Sometimes I will initially hold with tweezers for a couple of seconds then withdraw them and carry on until flowing happens . I wouldn't have thought it would be due to your paste type . Hope you get on ok . Thanks again , take care 👍
I am a hobbyist, and every time I see new videos from you I get motivated to do some soldering. 🙂 I really like the style of these videos, the editing and the quality of the work.
Hi , thank you for your comment and your support of my channel , it really is appreciated . If the videos can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
He makes it look so easy!
Same here. I watch one of these and am immediately exceited to go and practice his techniques
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated 👍
Long ago i started pre-heating my boards with a homemade heater. (PID controlled of course).
Once heated to 100c, it really makes component removal or replacement easy.
I typically use Kapton to hold larger components from moving while installing a new component or to hold a small board in a custom made heat plate (think Intel CPUs which I repair a lot of).
Well made and informative video. Thank you.
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated 👍
One of the greatest videos on SMD rework tips! Great work man!
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated 👍
Another superb heat shield is ceramic fibre insulation board typically used in furnaces up to 1500 degC. It’s about £15 for A4 x 20mm thick and will last a lifetime. With care you can cut it into thin strips about 2mm thick. It’s fragile and not good for your lungs in this state. I paint it with sodium silicate (waterglass, cheap to buy) and heat to 150 deg C to turn the surface into glass which makes it very strong.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . It's always good to receive other product information , the more choices we have the better . Thanks again , take care 👍
That's a nice tip. Still, the tiny razor-sharp fibres at the edges scare me a bit too much to try this.
Fiber ceramics are too heavy for this use. I think aluminum foil is more than enough.
Thank you very much for your Thank you very much for your Thank you very much for your advice. 🌹
@@mrsolderfix3996 those are not proper nozzles for qfp and other smd , have to move the nozzle a lot , they are suitable for bga. I know better nozzles for smd resistors , qfp
Thank you for these videos. I do some work on old video game consoles and watching your techniques have made me better and more confident when removing chips with many tiny legs. Your videos have made me better at my hobby.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very kind of you . I'm glad you have found the videos of use that's great to hear . Thanks again , take care 👍
I enjoy watching your technique when using soldering equipment. Every time you release a new video i find i have to watch it. Cause i always learn new and interesting techniques to at to my soldering skills. Thanks and keep the videos streaming!
Hi , thank you for your continued support of my channel , it really is appreciated . I find it inspires me when I see people like yourself returning to watch my latest videos so thank you once again 👍
I've had the best results with kapton tape when I left an air gap between the plastic bit I wanted to protect and the component I was desoldering. Not everytime you can have that kind of room to leave an air gap tho, thanks for the tip with the aluminium tape! I guess I can try doing that with just a normal aluiminium sheet for baking, it has no glue but it should hold just fine.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
The foil tape is a great tip. I've always used aluminum foil, but the tape would definitely be better in some situations.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video , that's great to hear 👍
Why didn't i thought of that. Thanks for the tip.
Aluminium foil tape is also used in vapour-tight house isolation, so a roll should be not too expensive.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
The solder paste idea is great! Thanks!
Great video. I’ve got plenty of experience with electronics and soldering, but never with SMD’s. This was extremely helpful, my thanks!
Hi thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is very much appreciated 👍
Thanks . I am just into electronics and your videos are so inspiring and motivational .
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel, and commenting, very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoy the videos and find them useful , that's great to hear . If I can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then I'm happy . Thanks again and good luck with all your projects 👍
I only occasionally solder for really rudimentary tasks. But I love watching your good resolution videos and detailed narration. Makes it easy to understand and gives me courage (in my head) to try some more difficult tasks. If only my eyes were what they used to be. Thank you for sharing.
Magnifying glass wouldn't help?
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
You can also in some cases use ordinary aluminum household foil that you fold double. I have had very successful results with this method.
I've done that
Hi thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Stumbled on to this channel some time ago. As a beginner getting into the hobby, your tutorials have helped me a lot. Thanks for the info.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , much appreciated . I'm glad the videos have helped you with your soldering , that's great to hear . Thanks again , take care 👍
I recommend you wherever I can to whomever I can. Legend.
Hi , thank you so much for your support of my channel and for recommending me to others , I really appreciate it . If my videos can help a few people out then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
This is genuine entertainment for me. Love your videos. Nice tips, well produced.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and supporting my channel , your time is very much appreciated . If I can help a few people out then I'm happy . Thanks again , take care 👍
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and supporting my channel , very much appreciated 👍
thanks for always being so informative and thorough!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and supporting my channel , your time is very much appreciated 👍
You might remember me asking advices on how to solder capacitors recapping an old boombox of mine. I fixed it.
Thank you for the advices mate!
PS: I also laser cut four gears (two pairs for each deck), did some filing too, and now both the cassette decks work.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I'm glad you found the video useful and glad you fixed your problem . If we can all help each other then that would be great . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 It's not just your videos. Honestly. It's your good energy. You're a positive person.
All the best mate
Hi , thank you for your support , hopefully I can help a few people out . I just like passing on what I've learnt , if it's useful then happy days . Thanks again 👍
long live Mr SolderFix
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated 👍
Thanks so much for your work on these videos. I know how time consuming it can be. The quality of video and still images is superb and your lecture style is just right. The naughty boy in me had to smile at your comment at 30m 37sec "...a nice pair of separated pins..." every man's dream! 🤣
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . Hopefully my channel can help a few people out , if it can then that's great . I dont post that many videos but will always put more on when I get some spare time . Thanks again , take care 👍
Nice video. ✌🏻
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Nice demonstration. I’ve got a PS4 power switch to repair. These techniques will help
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I hope you get on ok with your repair , thanks again 👍
Thank you for this excellent video where I learned a lot of things 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video that's nice to hear . Thanks again , take care 👍
My heart goes out to you that you have to use lead free solder excellent work!
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I have got used to lead free solder nowadays , it is definitely better to work with than when I first used it about 15 years ago . I use one from a company based in England called BLT Circuits . It is SN100SB . It's a great lead free solder and comes in different widths right down to 0.25mm. Also it's a great price compared to some of the big companies like Farnell , RS Components etc . So it's not as bad as people think these days , just up your temperature by about 30 to 40 degrees Celsius and you should be ok . Thanks again , take care 👍
I tend to use kapton tape so I'll give foil a go,
seems like it would dissipate heat better than Kapton,
When lifting ICs I'll sometime use a tiny bit of leverged upward pressure using a cocktail stick,
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I used only Kapton tape for many years and then reluctantly changed , but I'm so pleased I did because rework is so much safer now for me . Hopefully if you do try the foil you find it much better like I did . Thanks again and good luck 👍
Brilliant job as always, thanks for sharing.
Hi , thank you for your continued support of my channel , it's really kind of you 👍
Great video!!!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and for supporting my channel , very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed it , hopefully it can help a few people out . Thanks again , take care 👍
Amazing camera work, and easy smooth explanation as usual, thanks
Hi , thank you for your kind words , much appreciated 👍
Great video, what paste do you use for SMD soldering?
u are da best mr solderfix!!!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Awesome job on the QFP lift! Super clean! I love all the display that you do! I am guessing that you used a larger tip on the QFP lift to spread heat over a larger area. Always the best on YT regards rework.... I am sold on a hot air tool, checking ebay now....
Hi , thank you for watching the video and supporting my channel , very much appreciated . Yes you are correct . I vary the size of the nozzles I use on my hot air station to suit the size of component being worked on . Occasionally I may leave a smaller one on than I really need if I'm worried about too much heat spreading elsewhere and affecting maybe plastic connectors . Aluminium foil tape is a must if you do decide to purchase a station . Hopefully my videos can help you out here . Thanks again , take care 👍
Nice tutorial. Quality work.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is very much appreciated 👍
Brillient demo my friend. Shorts after soldering. You'll find using solder mop to remove blop and solder those pins with fine tip soldering iron much better we find.
God bless
Hi , thank you for your comment . Difficult on this one , joint was attached to a plane sucking the heat away as I mentioned in the video . Normally I would do as you said but wouldn't work here . Thanks again 👍
Great video.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Well I think you're very skilled. I do soldering and sometimes surface mount but I have no experience with hot air re work stations.
Thanks for this, it has helped so much.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Super video
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I find this video very informative and helpful . Liked and subscribed. Thank-you for your time and effort.
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Wonderful useful videos. Give us more basic electronic videos for biggners.Watching from Sri Lanka.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I have posted some very basic videos on my channel , I have tried to cover from basic stuff to more complicated stuff but I will do more basic ones in the near future , thanks for the suggestion 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thanks sir
Very interesting and informative video, thank you. If I were doing that I'd have everything de-soldered and burnt!! You make it look so easy. Thank you again for your videos.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support of my channel is very much appreciated 👍
Bedankt
Hi , thank you so much for your kind donation and supporting my channel , it really is appreciated 👍
I thank you for this as I have some smd stuff to change and was wondering if the kapton tape was ok and low and behold your video drops. I have two different thicknesses of foil tape so it looks like I will try both. Thanks again.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . The foil tape is definitely more protective so I hope you get on ok with your project. Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Hi yes tried both thicknesses the thinner was fine in getting into corners and gaps but it was an absolute nightmare to get off. The thicker tape great , it two seconds more effort to get into gaps but it just came off in one piece. Both traps worked very well it the removal thar was a problem. That maybe due to the glue they used. Which is very sticky on the thin tape. I think the thicker one is 3M no markings on the thin one. Thank you for your reply.
Un detalle compañero....¿por qué no utiliza usted Flux para facilitar la desoldadura?....Gracias por su aportación a la comunidad....Le mando un fuerte abrazo desde Las Islas Canarias (España).....
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very kind of you . I think I mentioned that I did add flux to aid with desoldering , it's just what I personally do , others don't bother with this , but I believe it helps . Thank you again for your time , take care 👍
Thanks!
Hi , thank you so much for your support of my channel , very kind of you . If my channel can help a few people out with their soldering issues then I'm happy . Thanks again for your kindness , take care 👍
You can get angled nozzles for the 861DA.
Hi , yes it looks like some suppliers include straight nozzles and others include angled nozzles . I guess people have to shop around and order the type they want . Thanks for your comment .
I just subscribed to your channel.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated 👍
Nice Job !!
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , much appreciated 👍
Brilliant video, what is the temperature setting you have it set too?
Any chance you could confirm the model number of the Advance tape? It looks like they have lots of variants. Great video as always.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I would buy the AT500 type or the AT502 type , in that order . Plenty of places sell it online , shop around as big price differences . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Hi thank you for the great desoldering tips. I have an Adat port that I’m trying to desolder from a PCB, I will try and check more videos but it seems to be a tricky one. Should I use flux and wick to remove as I do not own a heat gun? I tried to use a suction gun but it was tricky. Mind you I didn’t have any flux at the time so maybe when that arrives tomorrow it might work. Best, Al
The two tapes are used for different purposes. They both have their uses in the right place.
Hi , thank you for your comment . This is what I've said in my videos , Kaptons good for some jobs , Aluminium foil is good for others . I just try and get across mainly that the foil is better when using hot air . Thanks again 👍
I loved this video it helped. Can I ask what type of aluminum foil you’re using, HVAC? I see it’s rated to 100c, but kapton much higher
I hardly ever subscribed to any channel, not sure why though but, sub'ing to your channel was a very easy and quick decision. Keep up the good work, sir! Are you by any chance the same gentleman who runs the "Learn Electronics Repair" channel?
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated . No I am not the person who does the Other channel you mention , sorry . Thanks again , take care 👍
Great presentation, as always. Would you have any guidance on what sort of digital microscope to use ?
Interesting video. I picked up some tips from you. Now need to try the techniques One question what sort of solder flux you use for soldering the ics and link to buy it. Thank you for sharing.
Nice Demos Thanks . How do you deal with the leftover adhesive from the foil tape ?
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting . Both the tapes I talked about , the Advance + 3M makes leave very minimal or no adhesive behind at all . If there is any I just use ULTRASOLVE ( PCB cleaning fluid ) to clean off , which it does easily . Thanks again 👍
You are master
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
Excellent video, I got an Atten 5 months ago that is very similar to the device you are using. Good station makes a lot of difference. Thanks for sharing. One question: In the first half you shared the hot air station settings (speed and temperature). In the second half you mentioned only temperature. Was the speed the same (90)?
Hi Mate, thank you for your time making this video, would it be possible to share in the description some more details on the Advance tape please? I can see on RS there are few of them not sure which is you have used in your video. Also to note that all of them I can see including the 3M tape have a rating of max 149c heat whilst the capton tape alleges it's over 350c, I know from my own experience that capton do as-you-said break under heat, anyway, thanks again hope to hear from you soon, cheers
Hi , thank you for your comment . I either use Advance AT500 or 502 tapes . They are both very good for PCB rework and I personally have applied crazy temperatures to them when doing rework of over 400 degrees Celsius with no problems . Definitely use foil tape rather than Kapton that's the message I try to get over to people . Thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you very much, found them just now, have a good day mate.
Hi , no problem , thanks for your time 👍
Thanks for your videos
Iam a starter with airguns and i am no good😂
I think I've got the wrong stuff, what do you recommend for paste and flux because there is so many
I am doing(trying) very small stuff
Gr Michel from holland
What setting do you use for airflow on your hot air station? I find if I don't set mine very low, I will often blow components right off the board - especially if it's just a little SMD resistor or capacitor. I'll have to try some of that aluminum tape, that's a great idea.
Thx m8!!
Nice work. Can I ask you what video setup you are using, the clarity is a lot better than my setup,thanks.
Very interesting, thank you. I've always felt Kapton tape is a dubious and I've seen max temps of 280c through to 500c. Out of curiosity if you wanted to keep the IC working what would be the max temperature, 380c is too hot?
Hi , I have removed and reused IC's at 380 degrees Celsius and they have still worked fine. I'm not saying all types of IC's will work but the ones I've had to remove and replace due to polarity issues have been fine . In fact I believe I've used 400 degrees Celsius before and been ok . I guess if you have no spares and need to rework the one you have then definitely try it . Thanks for your comment 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you mate.
Hi , no problem 👍
Thanks
Hi , thank you so much for your kind support of my channel , it really is appreciated . It's always nice when I see familiar names returning to view my videos , it keeps me motivated to keep posting. Thanks again , take care 😊
Hi, great video there, i wanna ask about how you desolder components from a multilayer board as the solder cant melt at all even with high temperature hot air
Good job, the only thing I am missing is the exact settings on your hot air station. You mentioned some temperatures but no settings on the air flow (or did I miss that?).
I have the same rework station and my air flow is mostly arround 30-35. For temperature it depends a little but I am mostly between 320-370.
nice
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
THANKS YO
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Hi Mr. SolderFix, I have a quick question: Should I preheat the board and the SMD components to 200°C before proceeding to 400°C for desoldering with hot air? Or should I go straight to 400°C for desoldering? I've heard that to avoid thermal shock, it's better to preheat the board first. However, some sources suggest using high heat for a short amount of time rather than keeping it at high heat for a prolonged period. I'm still looking for an answer, but no one has responded to me yet. I’ve even tried asking other RUclips channels about this matter, but they haven’t replied either. I'm really confused about which approach I should follow.
Nice! I have seen a lot of your videos on wicking leaded solder. Can you please do a video on wicking lead-free solder?
Hi , thank you for your comment . I'm confused as I didn't use any wick in this video 🤷
@@mrsolderfix3996 Apologies for my confusing post. My request above is kind of irrelevant to your video here. I have seen a number of your solder wicking videos, which I presume were using leaded solder. I find it very challenging to wick lead-free solder even at very high iron temperatures. Do you have any good tips?
Hi , in my videos I just use whatever boards I have , some are leaded , some are lead free . If I'm struggling with lead free wicking the main thing I try is to pre heat the area with the heat gun like I've shown in this video . Lead free solder then becomes much easier to wick off .Works well doing this . I know some people who cheat a bit and blend a bit of leaded in but shouldn't really do that . Add flux to your wick as well . That's really all I do , add localised heat in first to the area . Thanks again , good luck 👍
The advance tape, is it 0.04 or 0.08 you're using?
Thanks for all your excellent videos
Hi , thank you for your comment
I use either the AT500 or AT502 Advance tapes . Thank you for your support of my channel , much appreciated 👍
What kind of tweezers are you using
Hi , thank you for your comment . I've recently posted a complete video on my channel all about tweezers , hopefully this can help 👍
Advanced AT500 tape?
Hi , the tape used was Advance AT500 , not Advanced . Hope that was what you were questioning .
If you dont want to scratch PCB use plastic tweezers :) or a plastic spudger they are cheap and useful at times :) especially if you have customer that complains about every little scratch
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I use metal or plastic tweezers to push foil tape down ( these are just what I had nearby ), the tape is very protective of the board so if careful scratches will never occur . In lots of my videos I show flux applications using a plastic cable tie , as I am very mindful of damage that can occur at times with metal tweezers . But you are right ,plastic tweezers are very useful at times . Thanks again , take care 👍
One thing I don’t like about Kapton tape: if flux gets near it, it will get loose from the board and might take with it everything attached to it. It happened to me once.
Hi , you are perfectly correct , I'm glad you mentioned this about Kapton . It has happened to me in the past and probably everyone else who has used it . Hopefully people try foil and get good results . Thanks again 👍
Can we have a model or part number of the Advance tape you use? I used aluminum duct tape on a project and it protected the near parts, but when I pulled the tape off it left a messy glue. I used denatured alcohol to get it cleaned up but I would like to find the same tape you used. There are a multitude of Advanced tapes. Could you provide a little more information regarding the tapes. Video is very informative.
Do you have a playlist that could take a complete noob from basic soldering, TH work up to SMT rework like this? I have embedded software engineeers that need fewer fish handed to them but more fishing lessons.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I do have a few basic soldering videos on my channel showing simple though hole stuff and other basic methods . I try to show a bit of everything but I will do more basic ones in the future for sure . Thanks again , take care 👍
if you are in the market pick the one that you can buy spare elements for or at least have service. All dry air elements have limited lifespan due to oxidation.
Hi , thank you for your comment
That's why I love this station , easy to get spares for and works so well . I've had this rework station at least 7 years , never had to change the heater element yet but I do know if it does fail I can get a replacement part . Thanks again , take care 👍
I really like watching electronics work and your shots are just gorgeous and a pleasure to follow along.
I'm not a practitioner yet but imagine it would be easier to heat shield around only the part worked at, instead of guessing which ones around it is at risk of getting damaged? (25:32)
Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . It was good of you to mention the connector nearby that got slightly melted . I wasn't particularly concerned what happened to this connector when I used the heat gun next to it to remove the IC . It was good that it actually melted to prove a point that you should protect your parts and remember from earlier in the video use the foil method . White connectors generally melt really easy as you saw . My usual method is to protect everything around the part being removed , but especially connectors . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi what camera you use for your videos ?
You wanna give teflon tape a go too buddy. Not as mouldable as the aluminium foil tape, but absolutely fantastic at shielding the heat.
Hi , thank you for your comment , maybe your suggestion can help a few people . The more ideas we have the better . Thanks again , take care 👍
Could you make a video on how to desolder a mini pci-e slot from laptops etc,because i am stuck with 2 boards where i have to transfer one to the other and i don't have access to parts or replacements,i can desolder with a soldering iron and hot air so you can choose.
❤❤❤❤❤
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very kind of you 👍
Hello, how tantalum caps can be redone? Thank you.
I've always been confused with using the proper nozzle size as well
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting . You do get a feeling for what size nozzle you need the more you do hot air rework . I started with the smallest nozzle , then when I did the QFP i used the next size up . I could have used even bigger but it would have blocked the camera view . The smallest size is definitely the one I use the most as so many components can be removed with this size , i.e resistors , capacitors, small IC's and small SOT 23's . Hope this helps a little . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996The issue with smaller sizes is that airspeed goes up and they might blow away components. Sure not an issue if you can protect everything around with tape.
@@AladimBR hi , with the Quick861 model I use you can turn the air speed down to basically zero so working on small devices using hot air is still pretty easy without them blowing away . Some people use sticky flux to help hold their parts in place . I find if you use normal liquid flux like I do if you hold the part with tweezers just briefly then take your tweezers away and the part stays there until flowing occurs . Thanks again. For your comment 👍
G, day from Sydney Australia. Thanks for protection tips. I was thinking of using a paint heat gun with a reduction tip/nozzle (if it will fit). Solder paste: whats the difference between solder and flux?
🌏🇦🇺
You need a precise control of the temperature on the area you're work on, that paint heat guns don't offer. Some works are possible with these heat guns, using distance to control, but I never tried that. There are some precise heat guns , i use a Steinel HG2320E at work for heatshrink tubes for example.
You also need precise control of the location you're heating, so paint heat gun handling may not be as easy as the Quick (or equivalent) station.
Flux is a product (rosin, for example) that helps the solder flowing towards the board pad and the component pin.
Solder paste : small solder balls within lots of gel flux.
Can you use these tapes on mobile phone motherboardsb
Hi , I personally have done rework on mobile phone boards using foil tape and they have been ok afterwards . So from my own experience I would say yes 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 excellent thank you
Do you ever pre-heat your boards?
Hi , thank you for your comment . I do occasionally in my day job need to add heat using a hot plate . Normally heat the board up to between 80 and 100 degrees Celsius and then carry out the rework . Hobbyists probably won't have hot plates at home due to costs so that's why I showed the local hot gun method to add some extra heat as you can get fairly cheap hot air guns
Thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you.
For a hobbyist, do you think it would be an ok idea to stuck the board (say a multilayer PCB with a big ground plane) in the over for 15 min at 80-100°C (checked with a thermocouple)?
Then place it on a silicone mat and complete the rework quickly
@NicksStuff hi , you should be ok at 80 to 100 degrees Celsius , but try 80 first of all . I would definitely give the oven a good airing before you do any cooking again as there may be fumes from fluxes , glues etc that may have been on the boards . Just keep an eye on the board during the 15 minutes . Good luck 🤞
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks!
Hi , no problem , hope you get on ok 👍
On the first half of the video, when you removed the IC between the connectors: the components around were in place, but it looked to me that their solder was affected, needing a quick reflow with new flux. Was it the case?
Hi , the surrounding components were still in perfect condition after the IC was removed with no reflowing necessary . The Electrolytic Capacitor that was missing just behind the foiled connector was already missing before we started . This was a lead free solder board which I'm sure I mentioned so naturally the joints look duller anyway than if it was leaded solder . This is also why it took a bit longer than normal to remove . Thanks for your comment 👍
why no flux in any of these removals
Hi , I do mention at times in the video that I've already added flux to the joints just to speed the video up slightly . Thank you for your comments 👍
Is there a trick to changing the nozzle on the heat gun? Or do you just have to fight it?
Hi , thank you for your comment . On the hot air station I use , the Quick 861DA it's really easy . It comes with a small spanner that fits on the nozzle perfectly . You simply turn the nozzle a few milimetres anti clockwise until the nozzle lugs line up with the cut outs in the end of the metal shaft . Then simply pull it straight out . Fitting a different nozzle is everything just mentioned but in reverse . It's very easy . Hope that helps , thanks again for your support , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996Thank you. I have another question, this time about the aluminum tape. Does it ever leave a sticky residue or does it peel off pretty clean?
Hi , it can leave a very small amount , but is easily removed with PCB cleaning fluids . Hope that helps .
@@mrsolderfix3996 that's what I needed to know. Thank you!
what air and heater settings in removing SMDs? air and heater range 1-8
8:16 the nozzle is very small for that size of the chip. The air doesn't heat the whole chip at the same time.
Total noob question here - I've removed surface mount components before by using solder wick to remove all the solder on the pins and then they fall off or can be lifted off with very little force (going back in with the wick if they still don't come away easily). When/why would you prefer using hot air over this method of removal?
Hi , thank you for your comment
Your method is very risky . There will definitely be times doing it your way when you will lift pads due to not wicking all of the solder from underneath pins . A safer way is definitely hot air or if I was doing it the way you do I would slightly lift up the pin by heating it first and getting a fine tweezer point behind it . Once slightly lifted you can then wick out the solder totally . Thanks again , take care 👍
@mrsolderfix3996 ah yeah that makes sense. I only did it a few times, guess I was lucky. Thanks for the reply! :)
@bennicus4901 no problem , thanks again for your support of my channel 👍
Can someone tell me what the alligator clip that plugs into the of the machine..what is it used for?
what paste is it
Often you can simply take a pliers and cut the contacts of the chip individually. Then remove the rest of the contacts with a soldering iron.
Hi thank you for your comment . The method you described I have actually shown in a couple of my other videos on my channel . I never cut using cutters though as this can stress the pads . I always gently score through with a sharp scalpel blade . Works great and gives no stress to the pads as you are always pressing downwards. Thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Hi thanks for your response, I will checkout your scalpel video. But yeah, if a hot airgun is available, it's the preferred method.
I must have cheap paste the hot air just blows the components around
Hi , thank you for your comment . From what I've experienced in the past you may have your air flow speed a little high . You've probably tried turning it down but if not it's worth a go . Once the initial heat is applied after a few seconds the component tends to stay there even before flowing occurs . Sometimes I will initially hold with tweezers for a couple of seconds then withdraw them and carry on until flowing happens . I wouldn't have thought it would be due to your paste type . Hope you get on ok . Thanks again , take care 👍