How To Use Hot Air Rework Station / Soldering / Electronics
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- Опубликовано: 24 май 2024
- How to use hot air rework station is a great , clear guide showing many different aspects of working with hot air on your electronic projects .
With clear demonstrations and photographs throughout as well as many useful vocal tips , see how hot air can be used in many different situations on your pcb's.
From protective tape information, through to working with solder paste you will find this tutorial full of useful information.
If you enjoy this video and find it of use please consider leaving a like and so as to not miss out on any future releases on the Mr SolderFix RUclips channel hit the subscribe button and the notification bell.
Thank you for your support and good luck.
Mr SolderFix
#electronics #soldering #hotairstation 
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I am a hobbyist, and every time I see new videos from you I get motivated to do some soldering. 🙂 I really like the style of these videos, the editing and the quality of the work.
Hi , thank you for your comment and your support of my channel , it really is appreciated . If the videos can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
Stumbled on to this channel some time ago. As a beginner getting into the hobby, your tutorials have helped me a lot. Thanks for the info.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , much appreciated . I'm glad the videos have helped you with your soldering , that's great to hear . Thanks again , take care 👍
One of the greatest videos on SMD rework tips! Great work man!
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated 👍
I enjoy watching your technique when using soldering equipment. Every time you release a new video i find i have to watch it. Cause i always learn new and interesting techniques to at to my soldering skills. Thanks and keep the videos streaming!
Hi , thank you for your continued support of my channel , it really is appreciated . I find it inspires me when I see people like yourself returning to watch my latest videos so thank you once again 👍
long live Mr SolderFix
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated 👍
Thank you for these videos. I do some work on old video game consoles and watching your techniques have made me better and more confident when removing chips with many tiny legs. Your videos have made me better at my hobby.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very kind of you . I'm glad you have found the videos of use that's great to hear . Thanks again , take care 👍
You can also in some cases use ordinary aluminum household foil that you fold double. I have had very successful results with this method.
I've done that
Hi thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Thanks . I am just into electronics and your videos are so inspiring and motivational .
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel, and commenting, very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoy the videos and find them useful , that's great to hear . If I can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then I'm happy . Thanks again and good luck with all your projects 👍
u are da best mr solderfix!!!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and supporting my channel , very much appreciated 👍
My heart goes out to you that you have to use lead free solder excellent work!
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I have got used to lead free solder nowadays , it is definitely better to work with than when I first used it about 15 years ago . I use one from a company based in England called BLT Circuits . It is SN100SB . It's a great lead free solder and comes in different widths right down to 0.25mm. Also it's a great price compared to some of the big companies like Farnell , RS Components etc . So it's not as bad as people think these days , just up your temperature by about 30 to 40 degrees Celsius and you should be ok . Thanks again , take care 👍
I recommend you wherever I can to whomever I can. Legend.
Hi , thank you so much for your support of my channel and for recommending me to others , I really appreciate it . If my videos can help a few people out then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
Another superb heat shield is ceramic fibre insulation board typically used in furnaces up to 1500 degC. It’s about £15 for A4 x 20mm thick and will last a lifetime. With care you can cut it into thin strips about 2mm thick. It’s fragile and not good for your lungs in this state. I paint it with sodium silicate (waterglass, cheap to buy) and heat to 150 deg C to turn the surface into glass which makes it very strong.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . It's always good to receive other product information , the more choices we have the better . Thanks again , take care 👍
That's a nice tip. Still, the tiny razor-sharp fibres at the edges scare me a bit too much to try this.
Fiber ceramics are too heavy for this use. I think aluminum foil is more than enough.
Thank you very much for your Thank you very much for your Thank you very much for your advice. 🌹
Long ago i started pre-heating my boards with a homemade heater. (PID controlled of course).
Once heated to 100c, it really makes component removal or replacement easy.
I typically use Kapton to hold larger components from moving while installing a new component or to hold a small board in a custom made heat plate (think Intel CPUs which I repair a lot of).
Well made and informative video. Thank you.
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated 👍
Nice Job !!
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , much appreciated 👍
You might remember me asking advices on how to solder capacitors recapping an old boombox of mine. I fixed it.
Thank you for the advices mate!
PS: I also laser cut four gears (two pairs for each deck), did some filing too, and now both the cassette decks work.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I'm glad you found the video useful and glad you fixed your problem . If we can all help each other then that would be great . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 It's not just your videos. Honestly. It's your good energy. You're a positive person.
All the best mate
Hi , thank you for your support , hopefully I can help a few people out . I just like passing on what I've learnt , if it's useful then happy days . Thanks again 👍
This is genuine entertainment for me. Love your videos. Nice tips, well produced.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and supporting my channel , your time is very much appreciated . If I can help a few people out then I'm happy . Thanks again , take care 👍
I only occasionally solder for really rudimentary tasks. But I love watching your good resolution videos and detailed narration. Makes it easy to understand and gives me courage (in my head) to try some more difficult tasks. If only my eyes were what they used to be. Thank you for sharing.
Magnifying glass wouldn't help?
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Thanks for the video; great tips. I definitely need to pick up some foil tape.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
Super video
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated 👍
Great video.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Well I think you're very skilled. I do soldering and sometimes surface mount but I have no experience with hot air re work stations.
I've had the best results with kapton tape when I left an air gap between the plastic bit I wanted to protect and the component I was desoldering. Not everytime you can have that kind of room to leave an air gap tho, thanks for the tip with the aluminium tape! I guess I can try doing that with just a normal aluiminium sheet for baking, it has no glue but it should hold just fine.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Brilliant job as always, thanks for sharing.
Hi , thank you for your continued support of my channel , it's really kind of you 👍
You can get angled nozzles for the 861DA.
Hi , yes it looks like some suppliers include straight nozzles and others include angled nozzles . I guess people have to shop around and order the type they want . Thanks for your comment .
You are master
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
Why didn't i thought of that. Thanks for the tip.
Aluminium foil tape is also used in vapour-tight house isolation, so a roll should be not too expensive.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Amazing camera work, and easy smooth explanation as usual, thanks
Hi , thank you for your kind words , much appreciated 👍
Great video!!!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and for supporting my channel , very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed it , hopefully it can help a few people out . Thanks again , take care 👍
Brillient demo my friend. Shorts after soldering. You'll find using solder mop to remove blop and solder those pins with fine tip soldering iron much better we find.
God bless
Hi , thank you for your comment . Difficult on this one , joint was attached to a plane sucking the heat away as I mentioned in the video . Normally I would do as you said but wouldn't work here . Thanks again 👍
Thank you for this excellent video where I learned a lot of things 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video that's nice to hear . Thanks again , take care 👍
I hardly ever subscribed to any channel, not sure why though but, sub'ing to your channel was a very easy and quick decision. Keep up the good work, sir! Are you by any chance the same gentleman who runs the "Learn Electronics Repair" channel?
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated . No I am not the person who does the Other channel you mention , sorry . Thanks again , take care 👍
Nice demonstration. I’ve got a PS4 power switch to repair. These techniques will help
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I hope you get on ok with your repair , thanks again 👍
Thanks for this, it has helped so much.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
I tend to use kapton tape so I'll give foil a go,
seems like it would dissipate heat better than Kapton,
When lifting ICs I'll sometime use a tiny bit of leverged upward pressure using a cocktail stick,
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I used only Kapton tape for many years and then reluctantly changed , but I'm so pleased I did because rework is so much safer now for me . Hopefully if you do try the foil you find it much better like I did . Thanks again and good luck 👍
❤❤❤❤❤
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very kind of you 👍
nice
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
Wonderful useful videos. Give us more basic electronic videos for biggners.Watching from Sri Lanka.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . I have posted some very basic videos on my channel , I have tried to cover from basic stuff to more complicated stuff but I will do more basic ones in the near future , thanks for the suggestion 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thanks sir
Brilliant video, what is the temperature setting you have it set too?
THANKS YO
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Thanks
Hi , thank you so much for your kind support of my channel , it really is appreciated . It's always nice when I see familiar names returning to view my videos , it keeps me motivated to keep posting. Thanks again , take care 😊
Any chance you could confirm the model number of the Advance tape? It looks like they have lots of variants. Great video as always.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I would buy the AT500 type or the AT502 type , in that order . Plenty of places sell it online , shop around as big price differences . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
You wanna give teflon tape a go too buddy. Not as mouldable as the aluminium foil tape, but absolutely fantastic at shielding the heat.
Hi , thank you for your comment , maybe your suggestion can help a few people . The more ideas we have the better . Thanks again , take care 👍
Un detalle compañero....¿por qué no utiliza usted Flux para facilitar la desoldadura?....Gracias por su aportación a la comunidad....Le mando un fuerte abrazo desde Las Islas Canarias (España).....
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very kind of you . I think I mentioned that I did add flux to aid with desoldering , it's just what I personally do , others don't bother with this , but I believe it helps . Thank you again for your time , take care 👍
Interesting video. I picked up some tips from you. Now need to try the techniques One question what sort of solder flux you use for soldering the ics and link to buy it. Thank you for sharing.
Nice work. Can I ask you what video setup you are using, the clarity is a lot better than my setup,thanks.
I thank you for this as I have some smd stuff to change and was wondering if the kapton tape was ok and low and behold your video drops. I have two different thicknesses of foil tape so it looks like I will try both. Thanks again.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . The foil tape is definitely more protective so I hope you get on ok with your project. Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Hi yes tried both thicknesses the thinner was fine in getting into corners and gaps but it was an absolute nightmare to get off. The thicker tape great , it two seconds more effort to get into gaps but it just came off in one piece. Both traps worked very well it the removal thar was a problem. That maybe due to the glue they used. Which is very sticky on the thin tape. I think the thicker one is 3M no markings on the thin one. Thank you for your reply.
If you dont want to scratch PCB use plastic tweezers :) or a plastic spudger they are cheap and useful at times :) especially if you have customer that complains about every little scratch
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . I use metal or plastic tweezers to push foil tape down ( these are just what I had nearby ), the tape is very protective of the board so if careful scratches will never occur . In lots of my videos I show flux applications using a plastic cable tie , as I am very mindful of damage that can occur at times with metal tweezers . But you are right ,plastic tweezers are very useful at times . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi Mate, thank you for your time making this video, would it be possible to share in the description some more details on the Advance tape please? I can see on RS there are few of them not sure which is you have used in your video. Also to note that all of them I can see including the 3M tape have a rating of max 149c heat whilst the capton tape alleges it's over 350c, I know from my own experience that capton do as-you-said break under heat, anyway, thanks again hope to hear from you soon, cheers
Hi , thank you for your comment . I either use Advance AT500 or 502 tapes . They are both very good for PCB rework and I personally have applied crazy temperatures to them when doing rework of over 400 degrees Celsius with no problems . Definitely use foil tape rather than Kapton that's the message I try to get over to people . Thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you very much, found them just now, have a good day mate.
Hi , no problem , thanks for your time 👍
Excellent video, I got an Atten 5 months ago that is very similar to the device you are using. Good station makes a lot of difference. Thanks for sharing. One question: In the first half you shared the hot air station settings (speed and temperature). In the second half you mentioned only temperature. Was the speed the same (90)?
Nice Demos Thanks . How do you deal with the leftover adhesive from the foil tape ?
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting . Both the tapes I talked about , the Advance + 3M makes leave very minimal or no adhesive behind at all . If there is any I just use ULTRASOLVE ( PCB cleaning fluid ) to clean off , which it does easily . Thanks again 👍
Still can't pronounce solder or aluminum correctly 😅. Still does fabulous videos with excellent visuals and photography! ❤
TIL use foil tape to stop the melting and the flying smt fly crap size parts!!
Hi , thank you for your comment , very much appreciated 👍
Could you make a video on how to desolder a mini pci-e slot from laptops etc,because i am stuck with 2 boards where i have to transfer one to the other and i don't have access to parts or replacements,i can desolder with a soldering iron and hot air so you can choose.
Very interesting, thank you. I've always felt Kapton tape is a dubious and I've seen max temps of 280c through to 500c. Out of curiosity if you wanted to keep the IC working what would be the max temperature, 380c is too hot?
Hi , I have removed and reused IC's at 380 degrees Celsius and they have still worked fine. I'm not saying all types of IC's will work but the ones I've had to remove and replace due to polarity issues have been fine . In fact I believe I've used 400 degrees Celsius before and been ok . I guess if you have no spares and need to rework the one you have then definitely try it . Thanks for your comment 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you mate.
Hi , no problem 👍
What camera setup are you using for the close ups views?
I really like watching electronics work and your shots are just gorgeous and a pleasure to follow along.
I'm not a practitioner yet but imagine it would be easier to heat shield around only the part worked at, instead of guessing which ones around it is at risk of getting damaged? (25:32)
Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . It was good of you to mention the connector nearby that got slightly melted . I wasn't particularly concerned what happened to this connector when I used the heat gun next to it to remove the IC . It was good that it actually melted to prove a point that you should protect your parts and remember from earlier in the video use the foil method . White connectors generally melt really easy as you saw . My usual method is to protect everything around the part being removed , but especially connectors . Thanks again , take care 👍
There’s also high heat blue tape. $9.
G, day from Sydney Australia. Thanks for protection tips. I was thinking of using a paint heat gun with a reduction tip/nozzle (if it will fit). Solder paste: whats the difference between solder and flux?
🌏🇦🇺
You need a precise control of the temperature on the area you're work on, that paint heat guns don't offer. Some works are possible with these heat guns, using distance to control, but I never tried that. There are some precise heat guns , i use a Steinel HG2320E at work for heatshrink tubes for example.
You also need precise control of the location you're heating, so paint heat gun handling may not be as easy as the Quick (or equivalent) station.
Flux is a product (rosin, for example) that helps the solder flowing towards the board pad and the component pin.
Solder paste : small solder balls within lots of gel flux.
Hi what camera you use for your videos ?
The advance tape, is it 0.04 or 0.08 you're using?
Thanks for all your excellent videos
Hi , thank you for your comment
I use either the AT500 or AT502 Advance tapes . Thank you for your support of my channel , much appreciated 👍
Nice! I have seen a lot of your videos on wicking leaded solder. Can you please do a video on wicking lead-free solder?
Hi , thank you for your comment . I'm confused as I didn't use any wick in this video 🤷
@@mrsolderfix3996 Apologies for my confusing post. My request above is kind of irrelevant to your video here. I have seen a number of your solder wicking videos, which I presume were using leaded solder. I find it very challenging to wick lead-free solder even at very high iron temperatures. Do you have any good tips?
Hi , in my videos I just use whatever boards I have , some are leaded , some are lead free . If I'm struggling with lead free wicking the main thing I try is to pre heat the area with the heat gun like I've shown in this video . Lead free solder then becomes much easier to wick off .Works well doing this . I know some people who cheat a bit and blend a bit of leaded in but shouldn't really do that . Add flux to your wick as well . That's really all I do , add localised heat in first to the area . Thanks again , good luck 👍
Hello, how tantalum caps can be redone? Thank you.
Did you get Michael Caine to narrate this video? 😊
Hi , no unfortunately , but I might try and get him to donate me half of his wealth 😁
One thing I don’t like about Kapton tape: if flux gets near it, it will get loose from the board and might take with it everything attached to it. It happened to me once.
Hi , you are perfectly correct , I'm glad you mentioned this about Kapton . It has happened to me in the past and probably everyone else who has used it . Hopefully people try foil and get good results . Thanks again 👍
On the first half of the video, when you removed the IC between the connectors: the components around were in place, but it looked to me that their solder was affected, needing a quick reflow with new flux. Was it the case?
Hi , the surrounding components were still in perfect condition after the IC was removed with no reflowing necessary . The Electrolytic Capacitor that was missing just behind the foiled connector was already missing before we started . This was a lead free solder board which I'm sure I mentioned so naturally the joints look duller anyway than if it was leaded solder . This is also why it took a bit longer than normal to remove . Thanks for your comment 👍
Do you have a playlist that could take a complete noob from basic soldering, TH work up to SMT rework like this? I have embedded software engineeers that need fewer fish handed to them but more fishing lessons.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I do have a few basic soldering videos on my channel showing simple though hole stuff and other basic methods . I try to show a bit of everything but I will do more basic ones in the future for sure . Thanks again , take care 👍
Is there a trick to changing the nozzle on the heat gun? Or do you just have to fight it?
Hi , thank you for your comment . On the hot air station I use , the Quick 861DA it's really easy . It comes with a small spanner that fits on the nozzle perfectly . You simply turn the nozzle a few milimetres anti clockwise until the nozzle lugs line up with the cut outs in the end of the metal shaft . Then simply pull it straight out . Fitting a different nozzle is everything just mentioned but in reverse . It's very easy . Hope that helps , thanks again for your support , take care 👍
I've always been confused with using the proper nozzle size as well
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting . You do get a feeling for what size nozzle you need the more you do hot air rework . I started with the smallest nozzle , then when I did the QFP i used the next size up . I could have used even bigger but it would have blocked the camera view . The smallest size is definitely the one I use the most as so many components can be removed with this size , i.e resistors , capacitors, small IC's and small SOT 23's . Hope this helps a little . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996The issue with smaller sizes is that airspeed goes up and they might blow away components. Sure not an issue if you can protect everything around with tape.
@@AladimBR hi , with the Quick861 model I use you can turn the air speed down to basically zero so working on small devices using hot air is still pretty easy without them blowing away . Some people use sticky flux to help hold their parts in place . I find if you use normal liquid flux like I do if you hold the part with tweezers just briefly then take your tweezers away and the part stays there until flowing occurs . Thanks again. For your comment 👍
Can you use these tapes on mobile phone motherboardsb
Hi , I personally have done rework on mobile phone boards using foil tape and they have been ok afterwards . So from my own experience I would say yes 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 excellent thank you
I must have cheap paste the hot air just blows the components around
Hi , thank you for your comment . From what I've experienced in the past you may have your air flow speed a little high . You've probably tried turning it down but if not it's worth a go . Once the initial heat is applied after a few seconds the component tends to stay there even before flowing occurs . Sometimes I will initially hold with tweezers for a couple of seconds then withdraw them and carry on until flowing happens . I wouldn't have thought it would be due to your paste type . Hope you get on ok . Thanks again , take care 👍
Advanced AT500 tape?
Hi , the tape used was Advance AT500 , not Advanced . Hope that was what you were questioning .
Do you ever pre-heat your boards?
Hi , thank you for your comment . I do occasionally in my day job need to add heat using a hot plate . Normally heat the board up to between 80 and 100 degrees Celsius and then carry out the rework . Hobbyists probably won't have hot plates at home due to costs so that's why I showed the local hot gun method to add some extra heat as you can get fairly cheap hot air guns
Thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you.
For a hobbyist, do you think it would be an ok idea to stuck the board (say a multilayer PCB with a big ground plane) in the over for 15 min at 80-100°C (checked with a thermocouple)?
Then place it on a silicone mat and complete the rework quickly
@NicksStuff hi , you should be ok at 80 to 100 degrees Celsius , but try 80 first of all . I would definitely give the oven a good airing before you do any cooking again as there may be fumes from fluxes , glues etc that may have been on the boards . Just keep an eye on the board during the 15 minutes . Good luck 🤞
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks!
Hi , no problem , hope you get on ok 👍
I've done a lot of electronic repairs, but why would you not put flux on when you removing any components.
Hi , if you watch this and my other videos I do put flux on when I remove components . I mention it in this one where I removed the qfn and also the first IC between the 2 connectors . I probably use more flux than 99% of people posting soldering videos on RUclips . I'm a bit confused by your comment 🤷
I love your work so much and I am subscribed to your channel. I just noticed a lot of channels they take big parts of your videos and they pretend that its their credit and they replace your voice with random BGM. >> This is an example ruclips.net/video/Jrf-aKKb9cI/видео.html
So I just hope you take my advice and add a logo or watermark on your videos to protect your work.
Hi I have a simple hack to help remove multi way contacts consisting of using an old tip or cartridge. Have a couple of photos and a short description but wanted to just pass it on but so much easier to show pictures. I tried to send messages via email but not listed so left this comment to try and contact you. If interested if not no problem. Thanks.