Repairing damaged or lifted pads on a circuit board
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- When replacing components on a circuit board, sometimes you may accidentally remove or damage the pads used to hold that component in place. Here are a few helpful tips for providing strong, long-lasting repairs for damaged or missing pads.
#soldering #electronics #tutorial
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Pro tip, don't drink red bull and take adhd pills for at least 8 hours before trying to hold on to 36awg with tweezers under a microscope
I'll keep that in mind!
Nah this is so real I can’t do any delicate task soldering for at least 2-3 hours after I drink coffee under the scope it looks like I got Parkinson’s 😅
Great video. Learned so much from it. Amazing tips and tricks and knowledge in general about traces. I have a messed up pads under an ic chip and I wasn't sure where to connect them if their trace point was right next to them haha being confused from the openboard of where it connects to, I assumed i needed to connect the jumper wire there but I reckoned that all I had to do was connect to its trace point and thats all, thanks to you. appreciate it mate.
Thanks so much for this lesson! I though for sure that a device was a gonner since it had two pads ripped out. But I'm still not sure if I am skilled enough to repair. Well, it'll be an interesting learning experience at the very least. :D
If you were an university, I'd like to study there! Your videos are awesome.
Very helpful information. Well done!
Great Tutorial👍 thanx and greetz from germany.
You are welcome!
May I know about scope. Which is and where to buy. Please reply
Details in the video description.
What kind and brand of adhesive is used to adhere something to the motherboard?
its a controler from VW car? isnt it?
Hey how's it going was wondering if there was a way to reach out to you to ask you a few questions.
So, this is more of a "how to do repairs when solder pads are missing" rather than how to repair missing or damaged solder pads.
As per my reply to one of the earlier comments, you are correct. It's more like "How to repair a device with broken pads".
would you be able to repair a micro usb with this method? i bought a screen for my nephew and the power port came off removing some of the pads for the 5 contacts off the back of the micro usb i just want to get it up and running for him
I'm up against the same thing on a 3 year old Amazon Fire tablet I purchased that many years ago for my grandson. The micro USB port port was difficult to remove and three of the five pads came off with it. The problem I am having is there are no traces to be seen on the same side as the pads and on the back side has some type of transparent ribbon cable which has about two dozen traces visible in it. The board also appears to have three layers, so there maybe some internal traces as well. In short I think I'm screwed at this point with no clear path forward to a successful repair. These devices are relatively cheap so this one is probably headed to the trash. I hope you have better luck with yours.
It’s a shame that in this era when we know that we can’t continue harvesting & consuming raw materials etc. from the earth at our current pace/rate at a sustainable rate, that they purposefully continue to manufacture disposable electronics, appliances & basically all consumer goods etc. so that we’ll just have to buy a new one & continue the cycle of waste. Planned obsolence, I believe, is the term for that.
(Guess I’m talking outloud, really. But irregardless, it’s still nonetheless true.)
The Bob Ross of Circuit Boards. I'm so relaxed and feel like I can accomplish anything!
One of these types of things fell off of the back plate of my GPU a p106-100 6gb compute only GPU.
I fell asleep watching this :( so relaxing....
Agreed I just found this channel this minute and you hit the nail right on the head there..
This reply is perfect, it's true.
This dude rules
Still watching some of your other tutorials. Now I feel stupid. I never thought to use solder wick to pull solder out of a soldering point (hole). I've always used a solder sucker which does a crappy job. You made it look so easy and it came out very clean. Ordering fresh solder wick.....
This was great, thanks, I been tryin to find out about "how to find a hot leg on a circuit board" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Ever heard of - Giyathan Bewildering Gratification - (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now ) ? It is an awesome exclusive product for discovering how to repair your electronic items like a wizard without the headache. Ive heard some unbelievable things about it and my mate got great success with it.
Oh, hell yeah! It works like a charm! Thanks!
My electric shaver broke because it has a contact pad switch and the pads were corroded. Cleaned the pads. Put some solder on there, tried to level it out as much as possible. Now it works again.
This was a tremendous help. I got the info I needed within the first few minutes and then just kept watching the rest of the video while I made my own repairs. Helpful and relaxing!
My cat and I were EXTREMELY confused by that whistling. Subscribed.
Im certain he lives in a jungle of sorts lol
Same. After a few times I was wondering if it was outside and what bird it was, or if it was in the recording.
.........and the Koel in the background loved the video too!
This was very helpful, indeed. I equally appreciated your polite conversational demeanor, albeit, one way. 👌🏻
Brilliant thanks Bruce just what I need to fix my Bluetooth speaker.. 👍🇮🇪💚🙏🏼
P S. Can you replace a pad on a board? Do you have any videos showing how to do that?? Thanks
P.P.S. THIS VIDEO IS SHOWING WHAT I NEED. I AM JUST AWAKE SO EXCUSE MY STUPID QUESTION. 🤣 NEED TO WAKE UP MORE. IL SAVE THIS VIDEO. AND I HAVE SUBSCRIBED TO YOU.
Thanks. Very nice instructional video. I like how good you communicate, keep it funny, and very informative. One of the best channels I have come across in a while now. Keep it up
Its the wildlife in the background that was thinking I was drinking too much, lol.great info.
I thought a new species of animal had moved in. I had to keep stopping the video and listening. Could not tell if it was outside my house or on the video for a while there !
I'm not sure but ,if anyone else wants to learn about
laptop repair
try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System (do a google search ) ? Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my brother in law got excellent results with it.
Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else wants to learn about
how to repair electronics devices
try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System ( search on google ) ? Ive heard some unbelievable things about it and my cousin got great results with it.
I think that's his Tui assistant
Sounded like a curlew
I was delighted to come across this as I was struggling with damaged CF pinout pads. Wonderfully clearly presented. A great teacher. Thank you.
Thanks for this. Really helped me fix my 3 year old daughter's toy that grandma and grandpa bought her. Now it's time to buy good solder, an iron that doesn't come from wal mart, and more flux. Learned that from another of your videos
Can you do a through hole pad repair please, because the cheap single sided boards, the pads where the conponenents go through, they burn off
I really appreciate your attention to detail with following traces and pads and making things look as nice as possible, not many people do that. It peavs me to see sloppy work done. Thank you!!
@@lfino100 yes went and signed up we will see and thank you for the info!
I think this video is more on how to avoid or bypass repairing pads and runs using short cuts on how to get your equipment to work. I have to give you Props on originality at time index 12:49 putting the component slightly sideways, however this is not a professional way on how to do it. There was enough pad area to overlap a new pad, glue it done or even use an Eyelet to anchor it, even a wire would work. I know that running a business you have to take short cuts to get the job done, get it to work and out the door, so that's why I thought your approach was economically acceptable just not professional. Retired Avionics & Avionics Test Set Technician of 42 years & formerly Certified Solder Technician of several years. Still I enjoyed the video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
40 odd years ago, I Soldered for a living (a very small electronics company in Guildford N.S.W. known as "Flett Electronics"). Somewhere in my life, I lost the fine art of soldering and making electronic stuff (Really want to get back into it). Anyway, I'm rambling, I have 2 rolls of 60/40 solder from 40 odd years ago, 1 roll is 1mm the other 0.5mm. My question is "in your opinion are such old rolls of 60/40 solder still viable"?
The solder would still be fine, but the flux core of that solder might be past its use by date. Only one way to find out!
word of advice for anyone making own pcbs, make the pads much bigger that the component contacts, it will make your life much easier
I've just destroyed a couple of little 8 legged eeprom pads,they are tiny.This has given me the idea that you really dont have to replace the actual pad,just as long as you make the connection!
Which has given me a little more confidence.
I thought i would have to glue on little pads to the board for the eeprom legs then solder!
I can never get the enamel off of the magnet wire, i resort to burning it with a lighter or scraping it with a scalpel or sandpaper. Copper tape is another good trick and a bag full of different sized via's. How hot do you set your iron to melt the enamel? I think need to move to thinner wire, will recover from speaker coils and old transformers.
On the thinner wires, the enamel comes off really easily. I have my iron an about 400ºC.
At 10:54 did that solder come out so easily because of the flux?! Also, the amount of flux he applies is equivalent to the amount of olive oil Chef Ramsay uses to cook 😂😂
Getting solder out of a hole is sometimes super easy, and sometimes it's a nightmare, though the flux certainly does help. For the really stubborn ones I usually add some fresh solder to the hole. It sounds counterintuitive to add solder first when you want to remove it, but it usually works.
excellent video Bruce - interesting bird call in the background. KR AndyT(UK)
If I remember rightly, the bird call is from an Eastern Koel.
Regarding the "stubborn hole". What's really going on there? Is it lead-free original solder, not "diluted" properly with leaded, and then the braid soaks up the leaded solder too fast before enough heat can be transfer to melt the (still mostl lead-free solder underneath?
It's usually caused when the hole is connected to ground. The ground plane on the board is usually a large flat piece of copper on one of the layers and it dissipates the heat from the iron. In these circumstances I usually grab a larger soldering iron tip so that I can get more heat to the area, add a bit more fresh leaded solder and voila.
This is now my favorite channel! Thank you!
I’ve really enjoyed watching you repair the pads and traces in two of your videos, but the thing I’ve enjoyed most is that you call what you are doing soldering not soddering 😂😂
I stopped using solder wick many years ago when solder suckers became easily available and quite efficient but having watched your video it does look like a much better tool for clearing clogged holes on a PCB, using a solder sucker to clear holes can easily do more damage by removing pads as well. I will have to order a couple of solder wicks again or try to find the ones I used to use a while ago. Thanks for your videos they are quite informative even for those of us who have been in the business for over forty years.
Is that Cuckoo bird singing?? Where are you from?😊😊😊
I suspect that what you are hearing is a Koel. We get lots of them around during Spring. I'm in western Sydney.
@@BranchusCreations Thanks😊
Can you you some nail varnish if you have no UV solder mask.?? Anybody???
Yes, I think you should be safe with that.
what is preventign us from jsut putting the old pad where it was with some glue. pr ppssobly wth the same glue by heating it up? and then .,, if needed, we could scrape away some of the insulation on the trave a connect the pad with the trace by solder?
Great video, I'm learning loads, but modern circuit boards are made very poorly, as soon as you try to remove a part, the pad comes away, it's happened to me loads, even though I'm being careful, older boards are fine👍
the bird in the background
I can confirm that I use a Swann-Morton scalpel when I am removing the mask from vias to get a good surface for solder.
You mention pads and we also call them lands. Anyone know the difference?
Dude thank you so much! I am a beginner, and I wasn’t initially using as much flux as was necessary, and this has helped me salvage some earlier diy projects I fucked up
Good flux makes a word of difference. I'vr personally found that the flux core in solder lead just vaporizes too quickly for most jobs, at least rework and things with a bit of thermal mass.
Just remember: Use ventilation. Fume extractor is king, but at minimum a fan to blow the fumes away from you. Flux fumes are hazardous as hell. And - remember to clean off the flux afterwards, unless it's truly no-clean type, and that you _know_ it comes from the original manufacturer. If eg. a 10cc tube of the very popular Amtech 559 flux costs $2-7, it's fake. Original is more than twice that, straight from Amtech. *_Most_* of the cheap flux you can get on the internet (like Amtech 599), is fake stuff. Only on _very_ rare occations, you might get genuine but out-of-date stuff. Some of the fake stuff does a very decent job as a flux while soldering - but you have no idea how it will behave if left on the board long term. Some of ir can be corrosive. All of it will be tacky (which can become a serious problem if it's an actively cooled device, as it'll collect and trap huge amounts of dust and other crud from the air cirulating through it. And dust is commonly conductive.).
Only leave flux on the board if you know it will behave according to the original manufacturer spec (and those properties are ok with your particular project).
@@josefinasolorzano3784 SPAM
@@jenniferrey4787 SPAM
What happens if the pad has been removed from too much heat, but the trace is under the surface & you can't see it (a multi layered circuit board) how do you repair that?
I understand that the UV mask is doing duel duty... Mechanical security and insulation. But, I think I would add mechanical security to the component body. Some type of adhesive that can be removed, if need be. Maybe the white adhesive used on big caps. I like Shoe Goo; no kidding. It's great stuff. Hot glue is not appropriate, IMO. I might also flatten the wire that goes under the IC and coat it with mask, before seating the IC, to prevent gaps between the pad and pins.
THANK YOU!!
Super useful information and very clearly shown. Inspired to go back to some boards I've just given up on!
...very rare repair tips...thanks to the internet and you..a sound mind is critical for this jobs...frustrations is not an option..
I put my board with a solder mask under a strong UVC light three times for 30 minutes, and it doesn't want to cure. It barely did anything to it. Unfortunately, it is not sunny enough to put it outside. Will it conduct electricity while it's still drying?
Nice video, nice chap. I would suggest to not use wire with enamel at short reroutings, use normal (naked) wire instead (stripped from a cable or such), only use it when you have to. I would suggest to clean the wire first with a knife to be sure the copper is fully exposed. The problem of wire with enamel is that you need to be sure it is burned away completely and you need to provide more heat to do this. When it is covered by solder, you are unable to see what is going on under the solder, there may be contaminants or a (sticky) cold solder joint. To avoid this, clean the wire first, it is better to clean it first to be sure there is always a good connection in the smallest period of time to heat/stress other pads, tracks or components.
Tip: When you are in need of wire with enamel, try to reuse coils from a spare board. It is cheap, plenty available and evironment friendly. ;-)
Yes, I agree that NOT ALL enamel wire is good for melting and leaves oxidation residue with poor solder joints. BUT he may be using an enamal wire that is made for the purpose of melting and tinning. By the smell he points out, I don't think it is. Myself, I prefer uninsulated solid copper wire for short runs and wire from old network/telephone cables for long runs. Another method for sourcing and wiring thin component tracks is to use a few strands of copper wire from your solder braid. Just unravel the strands to length required. Solder braid is a tinning wonder wire! And has more uses that just mopping up solder. Still, this was another great video which I will refer to all the time to refresh my repairing methods. SUBSCRIBED!
the way you fix it is really easy because you basically just use an exposed other pad/pin/connector. How about connecting a bodge wire directly to a trace? Sometimes that's the only possibility. But you did not address this, afaik. Unfortunate.
Super video. Very high quality cameras. Nice you have the microscope to show clearly what you are doing.
Hi I really enjoyed watching your video. Just wondering what type of flux you are using to dispense it so easily. I've tried the liquid flux with the little brush, which was rubbish stuff, the solid flux in a tin, which is hard to work with.
It would be helpful for these tutorial vid, if you mention your heat setting that you use. For instance, during pad removal you caution on being heavy handed but no heat setting. Also, there was an annoying whistling sound that was periodic which prevented me from watching. FYI, other tutorial vids that I watched they do mention heat settings.
The smell is certainly similar to that of Band-Aid brand plasters (bandages). In them, "Ortho-cresol" is responsible. In magnet wire/enamel wire, Sasol WES259 is the cresylic acid coating responsible for the smell. See the PDF at www.sasoltechdata.com/tds/WES259_TDS_2018.pdf for full details.
Just wonderful, I've been looking for "how to check a circuit board for faults" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Giyathan Bewildering Gratification - (do a google search ) ? It is a great one of a kind guide for discovering how to repair your electronic items like a wizard minus the hard work. Ive heard some incredible things about it and my co-worker got cool results with it.
Oof. I ripped a bunch of pads off using desoldering braid that I accidentally let cool too much before pulling away from the board. Let's see if it's recoverable. One of the pads was a through-hole whose pad was also the bridge between two parts of the ground plane, and on one side of that pad I destroyed, there is only a bank of the teensy SMD capacitors. Literally the only SMT components on the entire board are these capacitors whose ground connection I've just severed...
could i replace a full trace with a wire its only about 1/4 of an inch from pad to pad mosfet gate to cap full pads and trace gone? How would i go about gluing the wire to the board could i use black fingernail polish or what type of adhesive would i use?
I enjoyed seeing your video. You explained well. Lovely bird singing in background.
ruclips.net/video/eCFrRsBCKHc/видео.html, red eyed bird xD
@@josip1881 thanks for the video of the bird. Now I know the mysterious bird.
Circa the 18:05 mark you say something that sounds like "oooh ehyyah"...this to me sounds like a common expression showing mild frustration in Maltese, my mother language. Is that right, or am I just imagining things?
i have used this method often but i wonder, will copper tape cut to the size of the pad and some e-7000 conductive glue work?
Edit: I ask because some boards are all SMT and the traces may not have anything in sight to anchor to.
How many years needs to have that dexterity?VERY NICE!
Bob ross of soldering
If I have any questions on repairing pads is there anyway to reach out to get a bit more help.
I have a CD/DVD drive that I was modifying to work in an og Xbox and I got all the points soldered except I accidentally pulled the pad up on the open and close signal. I tried to pull it from a different source but it didn't work.
If I can repair the pad then I can have the drive and Xbox fully assembled without having to use the old drive to open and close the new one
Hi there great video. I have a question? I have a PS4 bored with the the power supply connector ripped off. The connector sits on 4 pads, 1 of the pads has come off and is hanging on only by the green coating. This pad doesn’t seem to have another connection to anything else. So am thinking correctly that it mite be a earth?? Could I simply solder the old pad back on? Or do I need to make a fresh/new pad from scratch? Any feedback would be grateful. Cheers Stu.
Bardzo chumorystycznie by było zrobić różowa płytę główną do iphone 😂 są producenci pcb i są pliki gerber dla śmiechu może jakiś youtuber by zrobił różową płytę główną do iphona ponieważ jakość od apple jest różowa w porównaniem do brązowego koloru z kiblową jakością wykonania
Learn lots of new things. Thank you sir for showing us your amazing skills.
Man, what is the magic you do to make the solder attach to the pins and pads? Is it the flux? To me, the solder always tend to attach to the solder iron, not de wire or pads.
There are three things you need for good soldering adhesion: clean contacts, enough heat in your iron and a good quality flux. I go over this in more detail in my learning to solder video: ruclips.net/video/M2Jf8cebwCs/видео.html
@@BranchusCreations thanks a lot! I need this solder with flux, otherwise my soldering looks like a mess as one you demonstrated in the begining.
Hi, what is the off white stuff at the bottom of my large capacitors? These are 6800uf 80v 85 degrees C. Could they cause the trace lines on the other side break if they are bad? Thank you.
Great video, I wish I had this Infos as I broken my amstrad 6128 and threw it away afterways :) thanks for that, another food lesson learned!
Thanks for the informative video. You demonstrated how easily a pad is removed at beginning of video. Is it possible to remove a pad in the you used , from a donor board, then use the removed pad to replace a damaged one?? Hospital smell from wire enamel = iodine in the enamel? Thanks for your time -Jason Burchell
I'm having some serious problems, my thumb drive stopped connecting it was a solder connection on the number 3 pin the USB plug I ended up removing it and wiring directly to the board out to a USB socket that I just plug it in, however it is not working it is heating up I have the wires in the correct configuration however I may have scratched the motherboard so it maybe it's shorting out, can you advise?
I'm recapping a mac classic 2, and I lifted a few pads. One of them (the positive terminal for pad C15) doesn't have a nearby via hole. It looks like the trace runs up the board a bit and then disappears under a chip.
How can I repair a lifted bad if there isn't a nearby via hole to anchor a wire?
How do you know what components to solder to the pads when there is nothing left of them? The only number is L10 and L11 ??
"I put some solder on the tip of my soldering iron....blup" :D
Bruce, this is a good vid, and I wonder if can set me in the right direction with the following: I am about to recap a Sega Game gear, and all the caps there are fitted on pads. My question: If the pads are in terrible shape, is it an option, to just simply bend and trim the legs of the new caps to fit in the holes, where the original pads traces joining into, and solder the cap legs in the + and - holes directly?
Nie prościej zdjąć wszystkie elementy i zanurzyć w cieczy by zrobić zamiedzianie elementu ???? Płytka pcb przed trawieniem jest miedzianą Płytką bez ścierzek. Podając napięcie na daną ścieszke prąd elektryczny pobierze wiązanie z miedzią ??? Można taką samą ścieżkę naprawić taką metodą
Thanks so much for sharing these insights, you just saved me 50€ for a replacement board! ❤️
were you using the 28 gauge wire for this?
I screwed myself recently while repairing a bass amp. I was using copper braid instead of my usual sucker and it got stuck to a pad, when I tried pulling up the braid with my iron the pad,trace, and half the trace around a via came with it. Luckily I didnt need that pad but that via was where a resistor was supposed to go. I bodged it by scraping off some of the enamle on the trace leading from the via to the screen of the tube it was connected to and soldered the resistor in. I'd like to avoid doing that again so does anyone have advice on how to use braided copper without taking a pad or trace with it?
I'm here because I broke my laptop GPU pads trying to reballing hehe
I wonder if you can help me... I dropped an older Sony dream machine and it hit the kitchen lino very hard and now it shows no sign of life. I checked the circuit board and don't see and broken pieces. No broken plastic. I checked the electrical cord for continuity to its soldered connections and it doesn't appear to be broken...there was continuity to the thick pad of solder for each one. Any advice on what to look for next?
What is the flux for. Does one need it if the solder has flux in it still?
The flux in the solder burns away very quickly. It's fine for through-hole soldering, but I highly recommend a secondary flux source when doing surface-mount soldering.
HEllo, i ripped off a pad and part of the green circut board for a 3DS LL charging port. how would i fix that exactly?
Smells like a hospital... chloroform?
Wystarczy zamiedzić dany sektor ścieżki by miedź się połączyła pobierając materiał z cieczy zamiedzając miedzią element wyznaczony
I was a bit stupid and misunderstood "scrape a bit of the via to expose the solder" and removed the entire solder on it so now cant solder to it, I tried tricks like trying to put a thin bit of tinned wire in but no luck as it just blobs up, someone suggested conductive paint but im not sure if that will work.
Hi Sir, I want to ask you how to rebuild the PCB board contact, use usually for to place on LCD
and also button
Radio Shack used to sell a "Pre-tinned wire" (278-1341) that I used for similar repairs. It works great through vias since it will flow solder right through and never had an enamel coating in the first place. If you're the type to save component leg trimmings for making jumpers, it's a bit like having a 50ft spool of component leg!
At around 17 minutes you trimmed the excess wire on one side when you still had work to do on the other. I suggest leaving that extra length there until you have the other end secured. As you demonstrated earlier in the video, a short little wire like this will often reflow existing solder while you are working on the other side. This can cause difficulties if you are making a particularly short and precarious jumper. The extra length at the other end gives it more thermal mass and makes solder less likely to unintentionally reflow at the other side.
I tend to do the repairs as I see them, and I don't always necessarily do them the same each time. And I do (regularly) look back at some repairs and think "I would have been better off doing that one a different way", but that's just part of the fun!
Do a through hole pad not just surface mounts
No problems, will do that in a future vid!
@@BranchusCreations Thx!
Agreed. I was hoping you would demonstrate a repair of a through hole pad. I’ve got both hole pads missing on both sides of the board for one hole. How to fix that??
Hello great techniques. I would like to email you a question for a suggestion. Where can I send the picture?
if you want to repair the pads and you have some donor boards around sometimes you can try and cut some pads of with the trace on it and then stick it on the broken pad, i use to do that if its a smd ic where sometimes you cannot solder a wire because of the space
I have been trying to repair a hard drive for months and had to change the rom chip from the original pcb to a donor pcb for it to work, while doing so I damaged 3 of the 8 pads on the pcb I had to install the rom chip, when that happened I tought that was it, that I lost that hard drive for good. Thanks to your video I could repair it and right now im backing up all the data. Thank you so much, I suscribed to your channel, you are awesome!
I'm not sure but ,if anyone else wants to discover
electronics repair course
try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System ( search on google ) ? Ive heard some interesting things about it and my colleague got excellent results with it.
how to replace the ring pads on a mouse pcb? wanted to replace a switch and took the pad also
hi, nice video out there! what temperature do you use to melt the soldering wire at this video??
For those of you who are new to soldering. There is a cetification program called IPC. I worked as IPC certified for several years. Being polite: this stuf is not IPC certifiable.
As I've always said in my videos, my way isn't the right way, just the way that works for me. I'm not actually certified at... anything. I just fix stuff.
So how is the IPC way to fix lifted pads, if any?
Hi, is there a way I can send you a picture of what I want to try and fix . Or just ask if it is possibly to fix
Fantastic! Some very good tips! Very helpful, informative, and with very good camera shots. I like the manner in which you present the information. Thank you so much!
You can re-plate the board with copper then solder the components over that normally
For bords that you cant add wire.
Though it requires a good knowledge of chemicals
Its called electroless plating.
That sounds like a lot of work.
hi I accidentaly removed sotter from my mouse board can that be repairable
only holes are visible
Really good stuff! :)
I have a question that's not related to what you are doing. I am repairing the back of a TV, and there are these silver soft strips that connect one side to another. What are those components called? It may be an old thing, but I would appreciate knowing if one side came undone if it can be just slide back inside, or it's a destruct.
size is about 1.5' by 3'