Thanks for explaining that limb design. It did look a bit odd when you were handling it at first. Aso nice to see all the work on the carts. Hang in there through the pre-season madness.
Because of thick core limbs on a longbow. Leaving strung can affect performance and loose draw weight. Only maybe 2 pds. In 20 yrs for recurve. You should shoot strung bows regularly.
Only if you have an all fiberglass/composite limb beginner one piece/2 piece takedown or are using some model with foam core/solid core limbs mainly found in ILF but are on some custom brands one piece where they take these limbs and add them to the bow riser as a one piece model. ILF is another design made so you can leave strung but most do not ever do because of a fear of breaking the limbs. If a bow is too hard to string up, please get a stringer and if you can barely draw back the bow at anchor for a 5 seconds, sorry but you need a lighter bow.
You can leave it strung if it's got glass on it. Never leave a self bow strung. Also if it's strung don't store it in direct sunlight or lean it in a corner.....for that matter don't do that with unstrung bows either
I think it's insane how easily you can tweak weight and tiller on a bow. Your definitely a master of your craft. Do you still enjoy shooting as much as you used to? Or does the day in day out bow work take away from it?
I would think he still does enjoy shooting, maybe not his clients stock models of bows but his own personal models or new test models/modified models of company's current models for sure.
I have a October mountain recurve similar to a samik sage and it has a high wrist grip. Can I rework this grip to more of a mid to low wrist grip? Thanks.
not sure, that seems more like you need to add material maybe even make a bow using as a high grip is higher up so the material would be gone missing from area. There are ways of doing this using the Bow Form a Grip from 3-Rivers Archery.
@@caseysmith544 thanks. I was thinking about just trying to remove some of the hump on the back of the grip that keeps your wrist high and leaving the rest alone so it doesn't affect the brace height but lowers my hand grip down to a more vertical grip instead of horizontal. I don't think the bow has much resale value anyway.
I have a bear montana 60# that i need reduced to 50# because of a shoulder cuff injury i have no income so I'm gunna do it myself have you done a montana what procedures would you recommend
done a few of these type of bows with limited equipment..... the words SLOWLY and CAREFULLY are words to live by... 10 pounds is a lot to remove...if the glass is thick enough, take it off the belly first. then if you need more weight reduction, off the sides VERY SLOWLY... be careful not to get a twist in the ,imb..take material off, then string the bow and draw it several times to let your corrections settle in... any time you think you are going to grind/sand quicker to "get it done" STOP...put the bow on the shelf and come back another day to work on it....
@@greatplainsbow I figured that the other machines working from the others in shop was the issue with the sound not you. The microphone was picking up mainly his sound.
Nice Work on the Reduction of weight ,you're amazingly relaxed
Thanks for watching!
Always looks so damn easy when you do it. nice work as always
Thanks for explaining that limb design. It did look a bit odd when you were handling it at first. Aso nice to see all the work on the carts. Hang in there through the pre-season madness.
Thanks for watching!
Badass!
👍
Great video and rework tips. What are your thoughts on leaving a trad bow strung when not using it? Longbow or recurve. Thanks
Because of thick core limbs on a longbow. Leaving strung can affect performance and loose draw weight. Only maybe 2 pds. In 20 yrs for recurve. You should shoot strung bows regularly.
Only if you have an all fiberglass/composite limb beginner one piece/2 piece takedown or are using some model with foam core/solid core limbs mainly found in ILF but are on some custom brands one piece where they take these limbs and add them to the bow riser as a one piece model. ILF is another design made so you can leave strung but most do not ever do because of a fear of breaking the limbs. If a bow is too hard to string up, please get a stringer and if you can barely draw back the bow at anchor for a 5 seconds, sorry but you need a lighter bow.
You can leave it strung if it's got glass on it. Never leave a self bow strung. Also if it's strung don't store it in direct sunlight or lean it in a corner.....for that matter don't do that with unstrung bows either
I think it's insane how easily you can tweak weight and tiller on a bow. Your definitely a master of your craft.
Do you still enjoy shooting as much as you used to? Or does the day in day out bow work take away from it?
I would think he still does enjoy shooting, maybe not his clients stock models of bows but his own personal models or new test models/modified models of company's current models for sure.
I have a October mountain recurve similar to a samik sage and it has a high wrist grip. Can I rework this grip to more of a mid to low wrist grip? Thanks.
not sure, that seems more like you need to add material maybe even make a bow using as a high grip is higher up so the material would be gone missing from area. There are ways of doing this using the Bow Form a Grip from 3-Rivers Archery.
@@caseysmith544 thanks. I was thinking about just trying to remove some of the hump on the back of the grip that keeps your wrist high and leaving the rest alone so it doesn't affect the brace height but lowers my hand grip down to a more vertical grip instead of horizontal. I don't think the bow has much resale value anyway.
Absolutely. Shouldn't be that difficult
I have a bear montana 60# that i need reduced to 50# because of a shoulder cuff injury i have no income so I'm gunna do it myself have you done a montana what procedures would you recommend
done a few of these type of bows with limited equipment..... the words SLOWLY and CAREFULLY are words to live by... 10 pounds is a lot to remove...if the glass is thick enough, take it off the belly first. then if you need more weight reduction, off the sides VERY SLOWLY... be careful not to get a twist in the ,imb..take material off, then string the bow and draw it several times to let your corrections settle in... any time you think you are going to grind/sand quicker to "get it done" STOP...put the bow on the shelf and come back another day to work on it....
What is the exact size of the bow, 56 or 58 inches? Sorry, it was hard to hear in the video.
@@caseysmith544 yeah I apologize the audio was terrible on that video! It's a 60" bow
@@greatplainsbow I figured that the other machines working from the others in shop was the issue with the sound not you. The microphone was picking up mainly his sound.
Did you build that bearing sander? 🤔
I didn't build it to begin with, but I've rebuilt it multiple times