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@@jimfogleman4599 Hi Jim, sure you can use maple in your riser, and there's a chance if you just used solid maple that it would have good longevity, however it's not absolutely foolproof until you add at least .25 thick I-beam or spar lineally through the tenon and riser. If you want to go that route I'd be happy to sell you an I-beam that would already be ground and ready for glue-up

@@greatplainsbow I do have solid maple in the core with hickory laminated around it. Thanks for the reply, as I have the riser glued up I will give it a try. I will contact you for the I beam on my next try. Great RUclips channel and thanks so much for thr reply. Jim

@@jimfogleman4599 thanks for watching, Jim! Good luck with your project!

@@JoelWigginsjr it's just the overlays. I can see how the title would be misleading. Never thought of that till now

@@stringbean585 oh I pulled it a bunch it's just not on video, but it's not that necessary. You're gonna shoot it anyway to test it

Hey thanks for watching!

@@kennylainhart7148 Thanks for watching!

@@roncrawford7128 Thanks so much for watching my videos! It means a lot to me!

@@paullewis5045 thanks so much for watching!

@@aaronhollenbeck2880 thanks for watching, Aaron!

@@davemartin8113 trapping it and sanding belly will go a long ways

@@MikeFerguson-yq2jh Hey Thanks, Mike! Thanks for watching!

@@greatplainsbow I have built guitars and mandolins for many years, i would suggest finding a 1/4 sheet vibrating pad sander with a soft sole for doing the finish work, those random orbits take to much off at time and will actually dig divots if you don’t use extreme caution

@@MikeFerguson-yq2jh thanks I'll keep that in mind

@@CamelCasee I see. I've never had a Ragim Wolf in my hands before

@@greatplainsbow For what it's worth they share pretty much all of the points you made in the video about this bow, handshock and don't cast very far, high arrow shelf and low grip. They tend to eat strings from the stringing and unstringing process too.

@@CamelCasee hey I really appreciate that info. Thanks!

@@davemartin8113 sure I've reduced bear Montana's before. Easy bow to reduce. Just take it evenly off the edges of the belly using the trapping method. I've got numerous videos where you can see me trapping the limbs

@@greatplainsbow What's the title of the video where you trapped the longbows

@@davemartin8113 it's in multiple videos. Just find one where I'm reducing a longbow

@@str8sh2ter thanks for watching!

@@markwesthoff1757 that's what's great about being a human with opposable thumbs and free choice. We get to choose when to stop a video and go to bed or we can stop a video and watch something else. Just fantastic freedom that we have here

@@nicholasosborne1356 That's a good question and I'm not sure what would be the best bow in that range, but I'd say go for a bow company that isn't production line, but is a reputable company built by hand. The $300-$500 range might be tough as that range is still kinda from production line companies

@@str8sh2ter that's an excellent question. In theory and probably also in action it would reduce the stacking, but it would make the limb unstable and likely cause a failure. The performance of a bow is determined in the limb profile by the bowyer when the bow is glued up. After it is in it's final shape you must remove material evenly along the entire length of the limb or it will compromise the bow

@@greatplainsbow Great answer. I was thinking along those lines but wasn't sure. Thank you very much.

Thanks for watching!

I didn't build it to begin with, but I've rebuilt it multiple times

@@caseysmith544 yeah I apologize the audio was terrible on that video! It's a 60" bow

​@@greatplainsbow I figured that the other machines working from the others in shop was the issue with the sound not you. The microphone was picking up mainly his sound.

Thanks for watching!

I would think he still does enjoy shooting, maybe not his clients stock models of bows but his own personal models or new test models/modified models of company's current models for sure.

Because of thick core limbs on a longbow. Leaving strung can affect performance and loose draw weight. Only maybe 2 pds. In 20 yrs for recurve. You should shoot strung bows regularly.

Only if you have an all fiberglass/composite limb beginner one piece/2 piece takedown or are using some model with foam core/solid core limbs mainly found in ILF but are on some custom brands one piece where they take these limbs and add them to the bow riser as a one piece model. ILF is another design made so you can leave strung but most do not ever do because of a fear of breaking the limbs. If a bow is too hard to string up, please get a stringer and if you can barely draw back the bow at anchor for a 5 seconds, sorry but you need a lighter bow.

You can leave it strung if it's got glass on it. Never leave a self bow strung. Also if it's strung don't store it in direct sunlight or lean it in a corner.....for that matter don't do that with unstrung bows either

not sure, that seems more like you need to add material maybe even make a bow using as a high grip is higher up so the material would be gone missing from area. There are ways of doing this using the Bow Form a Grip from 3-Rivers Archery.

@@caseysmith544 thanks. I was thinking about just trying to remove some of the hump on the back of the grip that keeps your wrist high and leaving the rest alone so it doesn't affect the brace height but lowers my hand grip down to a more vertical grip instead of horizontal. I don't think the bow has much resale value anyway.

Absolutely. Shouldn't be that difficult

@@billnewell4456 Nik is selling them off his Facebook page @ Nik Branstine bows