Thanks for the tutorial. Nice to see the Setup Wizard that I developed a couple of years ago is being used. =) When changing settings manually you should probably also reset the controller before making new movements to make sure the settings are being used. GRBL does not always apply the new settings instantly and could miscalculate the number of steps for the next movement, causing it to crash. The Setup Wizard will automatically reset the controller when these settings are changed.
Thanks James! Great video as usual. Perhaps a follow up to this would be to mark 4 points in a rectangular pattern and check for X - Y square by measuring their diagonals.
You're so amazing for explaining all of this, thank you so soso sososososo much! 5:24 I'm sorry, unrelated, but I have to say that's the cutest little CNC machine I've ever seen!
Hello JD, I just purchased a machine. Just wanted to say thank you for posting this information. Subscribed and will like every vid i view. I will have to view a lot..LOL..information that comes with these cheap machines is Missing a lot. I checked a few other peoples vids and yours are far better to follow and understand. I only purchased this cheap one to learn and hope to purchase a much larger, more professional unit. So thank you again.
This is similar but basic compared to calibration of industrial CNC gear. For example, back in the day, PCB drilling gear such as Excellon Automation used an inch by inch compensation script to allow positioning ±.0001" over 24". We would gen this script using a laser interferometer. It's very cool to see a similar option on low-level CNC gear such as these little desktop routers. Thanks for the video!
Great video. I’m still binging until my 3018 Pro comes. Glad to see the comment about the importance of cal when using the extended bed. Thx for all your effort.
James, Thank you for these tutorials. I just got a 3018 Pro and have been binging the series, then going back to particularly important episodes as I reach milestones in my build. I'm working in a makerspace and there are several of us building the same kits, nearly every meeting one of your videos is mentioned.
Thanks James, I was less than 1mm out over 100mm which wasnt really noticable until i added my extension then found travelling 600mm with a 6mm difference wasnt so good.....Sorted now thanks to you.....Keep up the good work.
For anyone thinking this calibration is too far off... remember... you're milling wood (etc)! Not a crankshaft. ;) Also, another tip for finding 'zero' off your work surface. A sheet of 20lb (typical printer paper) is .003" of an inch thick. Cut up some little squares to use as a sacrificial measuring device. You can step the bit down a tiny step at a time until you feel drag, or spin up the tool and then step until the paper moves. Old school machinist trick. ;)
Thank You, I am converting a Dremel Drill Press to a Mini MIll with a single CNC Z axis via UNO, GRBL, CNC Shield, A 4988. This helps a lot as i just learned the V ref for the A4988. I will manually operate X & Y for this first operation. I am milling a slot into a model train chassis. Its a clearance slot so dimensions can be somewhat lose. I may convert the manual X&Y to CNC later. Appreciate your lecture. I am trying to use Easel but not sure my conventional Mill Design will work ok enough. Z is on one frame while X & Y are below on their on frame. this is not the Z & X on one frame with Y as a bed slinger,. Should be interesting. Dennis
Still enjoy your videos James even though it's not relevant for me as I've moved on to Mach3. I'll forward this to the guy who now owns my 3018. Thanks. Jim
Can't like twice so ill offer up a comment to appease the RUclips gods. I'm waiting on mine to ship in the next batch, so I appreciate all the 3020 details and upgrades you may have planned
given the closeness to 800 steps per mm would it not be correct to assume you have a 2mm pitch leadscrew and 1600 steps (1/8 stepping on a 200 steps per rotation) stepper so the correct calculation from the mechanical design is 800 per mm?
I made my own CNC plasma cutter from scratch, before this video i struggled to get it right, looking forward to trying this tomorrow then will revert but am positive it will work 😂😂😂
The more accurate way of doing this is by taking into account the angle of rotation of 1 step, and how much 1 revolution of the leadscrew moves the spindle ( in german it is Steigung ). This is actually the proper way of doing it, and if something is of, it will mean you are skipping steps or something is malfunktioning. Say 1 step is 1.8°, and 1 rev is 1.5mm. For this you would need 200 steps for 1.5mm, or 13333.333... steps for 100mm.
As you say, the most common stepper motors are 1.8°, so 200 steps per rotation. All the leadscrews and ballscrews I've seen are integer values of travel in millimetres per rotation. This means the 800 steps in his initial default setup was correct. So I have to disagree with James on his calibration method because it's based on manual measurements.
Hi James thanks for your informative video always great to learn from. My UGS is not Opening up The Icon shows its connection but there are no Functions can you help with this Thanks
Very informative narration. I am in the process of calibrating my XY-Pen Plotter designed and fabricated by me. Your tutorial has helped me in this regard. I had arrived at 160 Steps/mm for my lead screw pitch 1.25 mm for use with Nema 17 stepper motor with 1.8 degree per step. My next query is how to calculate correct values for $110, $111 parameters of X and Y axis. By experimenting I found a value of 250 for X and Y axis Maximum rate mm/min. I need clarity and concept to calculate these parameters ie, X and Y axis Maximum Rate. And also the respective axes acceleration values.
Great video, Thank you! If I could impose upon you to do one with a first cut with a v blade, I'd be your friend forever! I tried downloading a file to cut, but when the job starts it tries to dig into the particle board & that's all. I can't find anything in UGS or online showing how to run a first cut. I'm very sorry for the extreme newbie questions, but this is my first try at using a cnc. Thanks in advance! Never mind....found your video lol!
I have been using my Sable CNC with Mach3 and windows 7 32 bit. With your great video I just calibrated it with a new GRBL controller, Win 10 and UGS using a dial indicator and calipers. Seemed to go well but when I loaded Gcode made in inches I think it was making my part in mm. Do I have to do the calibration over? I could not find anything in UGS to interpret the code as inches.
Just picked up the 4040 Pro-Max going to give this a whirl and dial it in tomorrow. I have been getting an error once I launch the gcode the spindle shoots straight up and hits the limit switch, having a hard time figuring out why this is happening. Set mine up the same as u did in your first cnc job video. What could be causing this?
Hi James. I already try to change my settings. Calibration. My X,Y,Z are wrong. If i change the steps, after when i press the SAFE the system changed as per from before. Let say can't be changed. What about if i delete asnd install again the program . Thanks in advance
I'm not understanding something in this calib video. My masuter pro in ugs is setup differently ie. You have your $100 $101 set at 800.000 my original file is setup to 80.000 when I change it to 800.000 it jumps all over. Am I missing something?
Hi :) i have some problem with my cnc. I did calibration as you have done in the video. When i type "move 50mm" axis move 50mm. But when I'm trying to cut simple 10x10mm square then the dimension are wrong. I'm getting 10,30 (on x axis) and 9.95 (on y axis). I don't know what is wrong. I was trying making g-code in easel, fusion 360. Same results. Do you have any ideas? :/
Hi. Great videos! i have solved alot of issues using your guides. I did the calibration and tuning, however when i run this slot file, it makes only 1 deep pass, the the other passes are the same height. any idea how to fix this?
Have you ever considered using a scale and microscope. I insert a 0.1mm bit into my machine and use the microscope to get the steps setting correct. Using the calipers is not accurate beyond 0.5mm. Standard machine shop accuracy is 0.125mm
Hi wondering if anyone can help?i have a Mostic 3018 i have homing switches everything homes correctly, however when i go to engrave a job the bed moves back on to the y axis limit switches,homes correctly but goes in the opposite direction to engrave?
I had them on my site but I have a feeling I accidentally edited them a while back. Here you go www.techydiy.org/sainsmart-genmitsu-proverxl-4030-grbl-settings/
I guess you can via an offline controller but you would need pretty much every command saved as a separate file with the relevant settings you were trying to change. So yes but it would be significantly easier to find the cheapest laptop possible or an old Raspberry Pi and do it via one of those.
Thank you. Always nice to hear. Easiest thing with Candle is it requires no installation. Technically UGS doesn't either but it does require Java being installed in order to run (although I think they released a bundled version of UGS and Java). That is about where the advantages for Candle end. UGS has better options and functions, as you will have seen in the video it has a setup wizard which can help solve some basic issues people run into. Its Z probe function does a fast find and then a slow find making it more accurate. The travel measurement for the Z can be controlled separately to the X and Y minimising the risk of burying your bit into the material by mistake. these are just some of my favourite features but there are more
Hi James thank you ever so much for the awesome video as usual maybe a silly question the holder which is holding the caliper when doing the z-axis is there that a 3D printed holder or something you just made also can you use this way for 3D printers set up much appreciated
Hi James. Great video; thanks for sharing it! I've been doing this for my 3D printers for years but just got my first CNC router and found this very helpful; especially the technique of using the calipers on the Z-axis. I have a question into which I hope you might have some insight: My CNC router has two stepper motors for the Y-axis. Is there a way to calibrate them separately (since they may not be exactly the same) other than decoupling the X-axis gantry? Cheers!
You can but more factors come into things then such as backlash in the axis, run out on the spindle and diameter of the bits (most of my 3.175 bits are actually closer to 3mm for example) so yes, you should find your cuts will be more accurate but may not be perfect because of the other things I just mentioned
@@derekjenkinson8014 in theory yes, but as I say backlash can account a couple of 10ths or a millimeter, your bit may be oversized or undersized, again accounting for a 10th or two of a millimeter, then spindle runout can make the bit cut wider than its diameter. I'm just telling you this because I've known people try and spend hour getting this 100% perfect but there are other factor to consider
Hi, so i have done this calibration. And bed and spindle is moving to the correct distance, but when i'm trying to cut 10x10mm square using fusion 360, i have 0,6 mm difference in x and 0,5 mm in y axis. I have check all nuts, parameters in fusion... i have no idea what more can i do. I have also try it with laser. And there is difference in size too... So i don't think that is a problem with fusion or lightburn config. Moreover when i change steps according to the cutted squares, it does seems to fix the issue... but then the x/y axis, are moving with some inaccuracy... Any ideas what else can i do?
4 Days and a controller reset on my 3018 pro. I loaded Parallels (Windows side by side interface) to run the Windows version of the UGS 64 bit platform on my iMac. it has been fun, but not nessessary. I easily Calibrated and Set my Zero spot in the Middle of my waste Board. Thank you, it will mean payment. UGS on Windows 11 Parallels 64 bit. Playing on a iMac 7 chip intel. I made many mistakes with the Mac 64 UGS app. There are some difficulties loading the Mac version of UGS. Hold the ctrl key down as you double click the UGS Icon to start it.
Thanks for providing this info! I do have a question though. I noticed you did not round when taking the step values to 3 decimal places (which is effectively rounding down). That is, 803.673938... would round to 803.674. Is this important, or is it just a matter of personal preference?
James when I am trying to calibrate my new machine do I always have to go 10 mm than 100 mm? If I decide to do less would my calculation calculator be different? I hope that makes sense.
Thanks so much for your videos! Quick question if you have time. Im new so I am not sure how programs interact with one another. If I change these settings in UGS, will they transfer over to Easel? Or will I have to somehow change settings within Easel? I am just not sure if the settings are being changed on the control board itself or to the program being used. Thanks in advance!
I have the Masuter Pro and installed a Makia router. My issue is with a .25" spoil board and then a .75" work piece when I try to z with the probe and probing is done the router goes too high up and trips the limit switch, is there a way to avoid that, with not having the router go up so much or a good height for the router in the cnc? Thanks for all you help.
You can either adjust the height of the router in the holder to compensate or in your design software you will have a safe height, sometimes this can be as much as 1 inch. If you reduce this value down to something like 0.25in then it should work better
Can you speak more on what the backlash is? How far should the Z axis go all the way up before trying to caliber it? I am so new to this that my machine hasn’t even arrived yet. Thank you
Backlash is essentially the amount of play before it actually engages the element it is trying to drive. So for example if you are using a spanner and turning a bolt one way, if you go to pull the spanner in the opposite direction there is a slight amount play in the spanner head before it engages the bolt to go the opposite way - that's kind of the same thing . As the stepper motor turns in the opposite direction and rotates the lead screw, it will take a fraction of a turn before it actually engages the nut on the axis carriage. Generally speaking its not a huge amount and higher quality machines will have less but overtime the backlash usually gets worse, especially if you don't lubricate the parts because the metal wears away. For most cases, just sending it back 1-2mm will be sufficient to ensure the backlash has been taken out before measuring. Hope that helps.
Hello James, I'm wondering if you have any fixes for a Prover4030 that has two different steps between the Y1 and the Y2 motors! This video did help a lot but Ive noticed this issue and cannot seem to find a solution.
It can be multiple things such as bad wiring, too much resistance on one side. This article briefly cover some of the issues openbuilds.com/threads/y-axis-operating-at-different-speeds.17135/
Great Tutorials! I keep watching your videos trying to improve my knockleg and my 3018. But I keep getting real issues when tuning my grbl settings. My maschine is getting nuts, like inverting the axis or not returning to the 0 point. And i dont know why. Do you have any suggestions? Regards
James, I think this video and and the GRBL setting/tuning video can be done independently. So if I’m setting up a machine from scratch, would you say it is more preferable to do one before the other? I thinking the tuning video before the calibration video. Thoughts?
I'd probably say the other way around. Calibrating the steps is about making your machine accurate, tuning your GRBL settings is about making it faster. 99% of the time I would pick accuracy over speed but not everyone will.
Thanks for the Tutorial . I have question for you ! while i was doing Z probe calibration My z axis coming down very slow, and causing alarm 9 before reaches z probe ! using 3018 Pro can you please let me know what i am doing wrong. thanks much
Check your gcode. Should look something like: G38.2 Z-15 F50 G38.2 is the probe command, Z-15 says "go down by as much as 15mm or until you hit the probe", F50 says "move the probe at 50mm/minute.
@@JamesDeanDesigns I was wondering about that. Presumably they're using the same motors, drive electronics, and leadscrews, so why would they be different?
@@Roy_Tellason it's just tolerances to be honest. Every component used will have a tolerances and therefore can just be a fraction different, plus wear and tear. You might find one axis wears more than the other. The X and Y will be very close but chances are they will have a slight difference
@@Roy_Tellason yes, depending how much you use your machine maybe look to do it every 4-6months. Obviously keeping things well lubricated will prolong this as well
Hi JD! I just got my 3018 PRO all set up yesterday, and I am going through your calibration guide, but Im finding that all the numbers in the Controller State (DRO) are red when a job is running. In addition to that, it appears that even though I am increasing the XY axis movement speeds ($120, $121), the actual speed is not increasing. What could cause this? I can't seem to find anything anywhere regarding the Controller State (DRO) numbers being red while active. Any and all help would be appreciated!
Excellent video. Unfortunately, due to mass production techniques, this will need to be done with every machine that is bought. (Unless it has already been calibrated back at the factory). A lot depends on what tolerances you want to work to. As a retired CNC/AutoCad programmer I can tell you that you have achieved a very high level of measurement during that video. I'll be using that exact same method to calibrate my machine.
Im guessing this is more for machines with leadscrews due to there being backlash. You really shouldnt need to calibrate the steps per mm if the components are well made. If you're needing to do this it suggests there are issues with your machine. Could be rigidity or an underpowered motor etc.
Multiple reasons for this video and process. Everything made will have a tolerance. This is about tuning your machine work with the tolerance of the components. Also let's say you've wiped your GRBL settings and don't know your step settings, this process will give you the value needed. In my experience, newer machines with ball screws do seem to be more accurate but I've still had to dial mime in a little
Thanks for the tutorial. Nice to see the Setup Wizard that I developed a couple of years ago is being used. =)
When changing settings manually you should probably also reset the controller before making new movements to make sure the settings are being used. GRBL does not always apply the new settings instantly and could miscalculate the number of steps for the next movement, causing it to crash.
The Setup Wizard will automatically reset the controller when these settings are changed.
Wow! Really cool that you watched my video, thank you. It will pin this to the top as it is useful information.
Thanks 🙏
Wow thanks this is a lifesaver I really struggled b4 I came across this information
Thanks James! Great video as usual. Perhaps a follow up to this would be to mark 4 points in a rectangular pattern and check for X - Y square by measuring their diagonals.
Thanks so much! I would not have got my cnc machine up and running without this video! You're much appreciated
You're so amazing for explaining all of this, thank you so soso sososososo much!
5:24 I'm sorry, unrelated, but I have to say that's the cutest little CNC machine I've ever seen!
Thankyou very much for thiss James. Very well explained and demonstrated.
What a 22 minutes well invested!!! Thanks (again) for your wonderfull video. Realy instructive.😊
Splendid video chap, good on ya mate
Followed your “First Cut” video using the UGS software. Excellent! This calibration process is up next for my 3018Pro.
James is defenitly the "go-to" guy when it comes to CNC tutorials
Great video , you have a gift of explaining things clearly and you are well respected by all the cnc community. Keep up your good work.👍
Thank you very much 🙏
Hello JD, I just purchased a machine. Just wanted to say thank you for posting this information. Subscribed and will like every vid i view. I will have to view a lot..LOL..information that comes with these cheap machines is Missing a lot. I checked a few other peoples vids and yours are far better to follow and understand. I only purchased this cheap one to learn and hope to purchase a much larger, more professional unit. So thank you again.
Excellent, that is always good to hear. I hope you get on well with it
Very informative video, didn’t know it was something I should do. Excellent teaching and love the accent!!!
Thanks!
Thank you for the support 👍
This is similar but basic compared to calibration of industrial CNC gear. For example, back in the day, PCB drilling gear such as Excellon Automation used an inch by inch compensation script to allow positioning ±.0001" over 24". We would gen this script using a laser interferometer. It's very cool to see a similar option on low-level CNC gear such as these little desktop routers. Thanks for the video!
I love finding out information like that. Thanks for sharing 👍
Great video. I’m still binging until my 3018 Pro comes. Glad to see the comment about the importance of cal when using the extended bed. Thx for all your effort.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for that, I had no clue about the calibration, now I'm an expert!!! Thanks again, great help
Glad to help
James, Thank you for these tutorials. I just got a 3018 Pro and have been binging the series, then going back to particularly important episodes as I reach milestones in my build.
I'm working in a makerspace and there are several of us building the same kits, nearly every meeting one of your videos is mentioned.
Great video, perfectly clear. I have been using a dial indicator but It might be more accurate over a longer distance with calipers.
Thanks James, I was less than 1mm out over 100mm which wasnt really noticable until i added my extension then found travelling 600mm with a 6mm difference wasnt so good.....Sorted now thanks to you.....Keep up the good work.
For anyone thinking this calibration is too far off... remember... you're milling wood (etc)! Not a crankshaft. ;)
Also, another tip for finding 'zero' off your work surface. A sheet of 20lb (typical printer paper) is .003" of an inch thick. Cut up some little squares to use as a sacrificial measuring device. You can step the bit down a tiny step at a time until you feel drag, or spin up the tool and then step until the paper moves. Old school machinist trick. ;)
Thanks for your time and videos
Thank You, I am converting a Dremel Drill Press to a Mini MIll with a single CNC Z axis via UNO, GRBL, CNC Shield, A 4988. This helps a lot as i just learned the V ref for the A4988. I will manually operate X & Y for this first operation. I am milling a slot into a model train chassis. Its a clearance slot so dimensions can be somewhat lose. I may convert the manual X&Y to CNC later. Appreciate your lecture. I am trying to use Easel but not sure my conventional Mill Design will work ok enough. Z is on one frame while X & Y are below on their on frame. this is not the Z & X on one frame with Y as a bed slinger,. Should be interesting. Dennis
Perfect timing, I've just done some upgrades, my 3018 is now 3040 and I added a new Z axis also, thanks for being a mind reader😁
Very clearly presented! Great info!
Still enjoy your videos James even though it's not relevant for me as I've moved on to Mach3. I'll forward this to the guy who now owns my 3018. Thanks. Jim
Great to see some new content 👌 keep it up
Can't like twice so ill offer up a comment to appease the RUclips gods. I'm waiting on mine to ship in the next batch, so I appreciate all the 3020 details and upgrades you may have planned
given the closeness to 800 steps per mm would it not be correct to assume you have a 2mm pitch leadscrew and 1600 steps (1/8 stepping on a 200 steps per rotation) stepper so the correct calculation from the mechanical design is 800 per mm?
That's also what I assumed. Even using digital calipers, his calculations are still based on a manual measurement of two small dots.
I made my own CNC plasma cutter from scratch, before this video i struggled to get it right, looking forward to trying this tomorrow then will revert but am positive it will work 😂😂😂
Great Video!! Thank you!
Thanks.great tutorial.
Great explanations spot on
The more accurate way of doing this is by taking into account the angle of rotation of 1 step, and how much 1 revolution of the leadscrew moves the spindle ( in german it is Steigung ). This is actually the proper way of doing it, and if something is of, it will mean you are skipping steps or something is malfunktioning.
Say 1 step is 1.8°, and 1 rev is 1.5mm. For this you would need 200 steps for 1.5mm, or 13333.333... steps for 100mm.
As you say, the most common stepper motors are 1.8°, so 200 steps per rotation. All the leadscrews and ballscrews I've seen are integer values of travel in millimetres per rotation. This means the 800 steps in his initial default setup was correct.
So I have to disagree with James on his calibration method because it's based on manual measurements.
Hi James thanks for your informative video always great to learn from. My UGS is not Opening up The Icon shows its connection but there are no Functions can you help with this Thanks
Great video James thank you.
Chears Mark
Glad its helped 👍
Thanks for the tips 😊
how would you make the distinction from calibrating step/mm and backlash compensation? Thanks
Very informative narration. I am in the process of calibrating my XY-Pen Plotter designed and fabricated by me. Your tutorial has helped me in this regard. I had arrived at 160 Steps/mm for my lead screw pitch 1.25 mm for use with Nema 17 stepper motor with 1.8 degree per step.
My next query is how to calculate correct values for $110, $111 parameters of X and Y axis. By experimenting I found a value of 250 for X and Y axis Maximum rate mm/min. I need clarity and concept to calculate these parameters ie, X and Y axis Maximum Rate. And also the respective axes acceleration values.
run at different accelerations till it skips steps then you know how fast you can go
I have a laser machine which runs on belts so will the calibration be different ?
Tenks janu love from India🇮🇳
Thank you :)
What's your thread pitch size?
Great video, Thank you! If I could impose upon you to do one with a first cut with a v blade, I'd be your friend forever! I tried downloading a file to cut, but when the job starts it tries to dig into the particle board & that's all. I can't find anything in UGS or online showing how to run a first cut. I'm very sorry for the extreme newbie questions, but this is my first try at using a cnc. Thanks in advance! Never mind....found your video lol!
I have been using my Sable CNC with Mach3 and windows 7 32 bit. With your great video I just calibrated it with a new GRBL controller, Win 10 and UGS using a dial indicator and calipers. Seemed to go well but when I loaded Gcode made in inches I think it was making my part in mm. Do I have to do the calibration over? I could not find anything in UGS to interpret the code as inches.
I use candle Software and when i prsss homing my Z axis is going up and up and dont stop. Do you know what can be. I dont have limit switch
Hi JD Like your Calibration Method. How do I input a movement of 100mm using Candle software to start calibration please.
Just picked up the 4040 Pro-Max going to give this a whirl and dial it in tomorrow. I have been getting an error once I launch the gcode the spindle shoots straight up and hits the limit switch, having a hard time figuring out why this is happening. Set mine up the same as u did in your first cnc job video. What could be causing this?
Hi James. I already try to change my settings. Calibration. My X,Y,Z are wrong. If i change the steps, after when i press the SAFE the system changed as per from before. Let say can't be changed. What about if i delete asnd install again the program .
Thanks in advance
I'm not understanding something in this calib video. My masuter pro in ugs is setup differently ie. You have your $100 $101 set at 800.000 my original file is setup to 80.000 when I change it to 800.000 it jumps all over. Am I missing something?
AWESOME James as always, you keep teaching i keep learning. Quick question if you don`t mind, where is the heck the probe feature in UGS. THANKS
Hoe van i Produce a heightmap like as with canule. Usg does not
Hi :) i have some problem with my cnc. I did calibration as you have done in the video. When i type "move 50mm" axis move 50mm. But when I'm trying to cut simple 10x10mm square then the dimension are wrong. I'm getting 10,30 (on x axis) and 9.95 (on y axis). I don't know what is wrong. I was trying making g-code in easel, fusion 360. Same results. Do you have any ideas? :/
I set the step size to 5mm but the x axis moves 50mm.
Does this calibration method work to get my 3040 x axis to only move the 5mm it’s supposed to?
Hi. Great videos! i have solved alot of issues using your guides. I did the calibration and tuning, however when i run this slot file, it makes only 1 deep pass, the the other passes are the same height. any idea how to fix this?
Have you ever considered using a scale and microscope.
I insert a 0.1mm bit into my machine and use the microscope to get the steps setting correct. Using the calipers is not accurate beyond 0.5mm.
Standard machine shop accuracy is 0.125mm
Hi wondering if anyone can help?i have a Mostic 3018 i have homing switches everything homes correctly, however when i go to engrave a job the bed moves back on to the y axis limit switches,homes correctly but goes in the opposite direction to engrave?
Where did you get the green gap fillers for the 8020 extrusion?
Hi James. I checked your blog and was hoping you had the factory default GRBL settings for the Genmitsu 4030. Are you able to provide them? Thanks!
I had them on my site but I have a feeling I accidentally edited them a while back. Here you go www.techydiy.org/sainsmart-genmitsu-proverxl-4030-grbl-settings/
Hi, thanks for video. Can we calibrate machine without PC/laptop connected?
I guess you can via an offline controller but you would need pretty much every command saved as a separate file with the relevant settings you were trying to change. So yes but it would be significantly easier to find the cheapest laptop possible or an old Raspberry Pi and do it via one of those.
@@JamesDeanDesigns , I figured out that I can do it via Android GLBR controller app, that can replace laptop for GCODE. Thanks for answer
Good info and presentation James. I have only used candle. What advantages, if any , would you say UGS has over candle and vice versa.
Thank you. Always nice to hear. Easiest thing with Candle is it requires no installation. Technically UGS doesn't either but it does require Java being installed in order to run (although I think they released a bundled version of UGS and Java). That is about where the advantages for Candle end. UGS has better options and functions, as you will have seen in the video it has a setup wizard which can help solve some basic issues people run into. Its Z probe function does a fast find and then a slow find making it more accurate. The travel measurement for the Z can be controlled separately to the X and Y minimising the risk of burying your bit into the material by mistake. these are just some of my favourite features but there are more
you said there would be a link for UGS in the description, but i don't see it. What am I missing?
No, it wasn't there. I've just added it but its
winder.github.io/ugs_website/
Hi James thank you ever so much for the awesome video as usual maybe a silly question the holder which is holding the caliper when doing the z-axis is there that a 3D printed holder or something you just made also can you use this way for 3D printers set up much appreciated
Hi James. Great video; thanks for sharing it! I've been doing this for my 3D printers for years but just got my first CNC router and found this very helpful; especially the technique of using the calipers on the Z-axis.
I have a question into which I hope you might have some insight: My CNC router has two stepper motors for the Y-axis. Is there a way to calibrate them separately (since they may not be exactly the same) other than decoupling the X-axis gantry?
Cheers!
Do you know if its possible to get .cn files already done, eg I want to mill a 20mm hole 1mm depth in perspex
That is a fairly simple cut that you could do in the free version of Easel as opposed to getting someone to make it for you
good video. What are the grbl commands you are using to move the x and y axis?
No code used. Just use the jog controls in the software
Do you have to change the value to 700 or can one leave it at 800 and get the same results? Thank you
hi just got my first cnc machine for xmas 3018-prover v2 can you tell me what program you use thanks
This talks you through the different options 👍
ruclips.net/video/EMI97Rcb0bQ/видео.html
Would you follow this up but doing a cut to ensure it is correct?
You can but more factors come into things then such as backlash in the axis, run out on the spindle and diameter of the bits (most of my 3.175 bits are actually closer to 3mm for example) so yes, you should find your cuts will be more accurate but may not be perfect because of the other things I just mentioned
@@JamesDeanDesigns if you do an outside path on a box should this not then match, regardless of the bit size?
@@derekjenkinson8014 in theory yes, but as I say backlash can account a couple of 10ths or a millimeter, your bit may be oversized or undersized, again accounting for a 10th or two of a millimeter, then spindle runout can make the bit cut wider than its diameter. I'm just telling you this because I've known people try and spend hour getting this 100% perfect but there are other factor to consider
Hi, so i have done this calibration. And bed and spindle is moving to the correct distance, but when i'm trying to cut 10x10mm square using fusion 360, i have 0,6 mm difference in x and 0,5 mm in y axis. I have check all nuts, parameters in fusion... i have no idea what more can i do. I have also try it with laser. And there is difference in size too... So i don't think that is a problem with fusion or lightburn config. Moreover when i change steps according to the cutted squares, it does seems to fix the issue... but then the x/y axis, are moving with some inaccuracy... Any ideas what else can i do?
4 Days and a controller reset on my 3018 pro. I loaded Parallels (Windows side by side interface) to run the Windows version of the UGS 64 bit platform on my iMac. it has been fun, but not nessessary. I easily Calibrated and Set my Zero spot in the Middle of my waste Board. Thank you, it will mean payment. UGS on Windows 11 Parallels 64 bit. Playing on a iMac 7 chip intel. I made many mistakes with the Mac 64 UGS app. There are some difficulties loading the Mac version of UGS. Hold the ctrl key down as you double click the UGS Icon to start it.
Thanks for providing this info! I do have a question though. I noticed you did not round when taking the step values to 3 decimal places (which is effectively rounding down). That is, 803.673938... would round to 803.674. Is this important, or is it just a matter of personal preference?
James when I am trying to calibrate my new machine do I always have to go 10 mm than 100 mm? If I decide to do less would my calculation calculator be different? I hope that makes sense.
They can be any distance and the calculations should still work
Thank you James
Thanks so much for your videos! Quick question if you have time. Im new so I am not sure how programs interact with one another. If I change these settings in UGS, will they transfer over to Easel? Or will I have to somehow change settings within Easel? I am just not sure if the settings are being changed on the control board itself or to the program being used. Thanks in advance!
I have the Masuter Pro and installed a Makia router. My issue is with a .25" spoil board and then a .75" work piece when I try to z with the probe and probing is done the router goes too high up and trips the limit switch, is there a way to avoid that, with not having the router go up so much or a good height for the router in the cnc? Thanks for all you help.
You can either adjust the height of the router in the holder to compensate or in your design software you will have a safe height, sometimes this can be as much as 1 inch. If you reduce this value down to something like 0.25in then it should work better
@@JamesDeanDesigns I will check it out, thanks
Can you speak more on what the backlash is? How far should the Z axis go all the way up before trying to caliber it? I am so new to this that my machine hasn’t even arrived yet.
Thank you
Backlash is essentially the amount of play before it actually engages the element it is trying to drive. So for example if you are using a spanner and turning a bolt one way, if you go to pull the spanner in the opposite direction there is a slight amount play in the spanner head before it engages the bolt to go the opposite way - that's kind of the same thing . As the stepper motor turns in the opposite direction and rotates the lead screw, it will take a fraction of a turn before it actually engages the nut on the axis carriage. Generally speaking its not a huge amount and higher quality machines will have less but overtime the backlash usually gets worse, especially if you don't lubricate the parts because the metal wears away. For most cases, just sending it back 1-2mm will be sufficient to ensure the backlash has been taken out before measuring. Hope that helps.
Thank you!
Thank you!!
Hello James, I'm wondering if you have any fixes for a Prover4030 that has two different steps between the Y1 and the Y2 motors! This video did help a lot but Ive noticed this issue and cannot seem to find a solution.
It can be multiple things such as bad wiring, too much resistance on one side. This article briefly cover some of the issues openbuilds.com/threads/y-axis-operating-at-different-speeds.17135/
Great Tutorials! I keep watching your videos trying to improve my knockleg and my 3018. But I keep getting real issues when tuning my grbl settings. My maschine is getting nuts, like inverting the axis or not returning to the 0 point. And i dont know why. Do you have any suggestions? Regards
James, I think this video and and the GRBL setting/tuning video can be done independently. So if I’m setting up a machine from scratch, would you say it is more preferable to do one before the other? I thinking the tuning video before the calibration video. Thoughts?
I'd probably say the other way around. Calibrating the steps is about making your machine accurate, tuning your GRBL settings is about making it faster. 99% of the time I would pick accuracy over speed but not everyone will.
I really need this lol... just cut a part that was 2mm out. I have no idea what im doing!!
Thanks for the Tutorial . I have question for you ! while i was doing Z probe calibration My z axis coming down very slow, and causing alarm 9 before reaches z probe ! using 3018 Pro can you please let me know what i am doing wrong. thanks much
What software? Usually you have to get your bit within about 10mm of the probe, but within UGS you can control this distance to be greater or smaller
Check your gcode. Should look something like:
G38.2 Z-15 F50
G38.2 is the probe command, Z-15 says "go down by as much as 15mm or until you hit the probe", F50 says "move the probe at 50mm/minute.
I would recommend rounding (e.g. 803.6739 should be 803.674 rather than 803.673) the value rather than truncating it to three digits.
Thanks
Will the x and y axis have the same settings or can it vary?
If they have the same size lead screw or belts/cogs then usually they will be very close but not necessary exactly the same
@@JamesDeanDesigns I was wondering about that. Presumably they're using the same motors, drive electronics, and leadscrews, so why would they be different?
@@Roy_Tellason it's just tolerances to be honest. Every component used will have a tolerances and therefore can just be a fraction different, plus wear and tear. You might find one axis wears more than the other. The X and Y will be very close but chances are they will have a slight difference
@@JamesDeanDesigns If wear is a factor does that mean that you should repeat this calibration periodicall.y?
@@Roy_Tellason yes, depending how much you use your machine maybe look to do it every 4-6months. Obviously keeping things well lubricated will prolong this as well
hi，jd，Excuse me what is the name of the software, and is not the same as the previous GRBL
The software I use is called UGS which is short for Universal G-code Sender
Hi JD!
I just got my 3018 PRO all set up yesterday, and I am going through your calibration guide, but Im finding that all the numbers in the Controller State (DRO) are red when a job is running. In addition to that, it appears that even though I am increasing the XY axis movement speeds ($120, $121), the actual speed is not increasing. What could cause this? I can't seem to find anything anywhere regarding the Controller State (DRO) numbers being red while active. Any and all help would be appreciated!
Hi, Check you GRBL settings particularly $10. It should be set to $10=3
Excellent video. Unfortunately, due to mass production techniques, this will need to be done with every machine that is bought. (Unless it has already been calibrated back at the factory).
A lot depends on what tolerances you want to work to. As a retired CNC/AutoCad programmer I can tell you that you have achieved a very high level of measurement during that video. I'll be using that exact same method to calibrate my machine.
Thank you 👍
Im guessing this is more for machines with leadscrews due to there being backlash. You really shouldnt need to calibrate the steps per mm if the components are well made. If you're needing to do this it suggests there are issues with your machine. Could be rigidity or an underpowered motor etc.
Multiple reasons for this video and process. Everything made will have a tolerance. This is about tuning your machine work with the tolerance of the components.
Also let's say you've wiped your GRBL settings and don't know your step settings, this process will give you the value needed.
In my experience, newer machines with ball screws do seem to be more accurate but I've still had to dial mime in a little
James eres un puto maquinon!!
Muchas gracias tron.
Happy to help 😁
Now check it at 300 and i bet it is off again it should be left at 800
I have a laser machine which runs on belts so will the calibration be different ?