SpeTool Introduction Bit Set spetools.com/products/spetool-wd-2-router-bits-set-8-pcs-1-4-shank?ref=JDDesigns Bit selections from Sainsmart amzn.to/3p0O8kn Bits from FoxAlien www.foxalien.com/collections/... Bits from Spe Tools amzn.to/3lNko8R Amana tools from Tooltoday shrsl.com/37eun
Thank you James. I'm a beginner and this information is what I've been needing and missing. Plus, I now understand why there is no 'Use this speed and feed rates' video.
I would love to be able to do a video or guide like that and make it easy. Maybe someone will come up with an app or calculator one day to do it all for us
I've been following this channel for a year or so and chatted with you a few times and always appreciated the info. I took time off from CNC to learn my 3d printers and now concentrating on learning the CNC. Lots more videos now than a year ago. Looks like a good time to start back up again. Cheers.
After all of my own research and I don't know how many videos I have watched, you have been my go to channel James. Always great information in the way I prefer to hear a presentation. I have finally taken the plunge and have ordered my machine which is coming in this week. I decided on the Proverxl 6050 after looking at so many machines. I'm excited to get started and what a great enhancement to my newly constructed workshop. Thanks again James for always providing quality content. Cheers from Utah ! Thumbs up for sure. ;-)
Hi James, great videos! As a toolmaker may I point out an error in your terminology? What you are calling an End Mill is in fact a Slot Drill. The difference is important because true End Mills cannot do plunge cuts. They have usually 4 flutes, and the cutting edges on the bottom do not meet in the middle. Which means they don't cut the full area of the bottom surface - if you try to plunge with them you will have a crash. They are mainly used in metal cutting, moving sideways into material to make slots and rebates. The reason for using them is that they can cut faster with a better finish than a Slot Drill in situations where you don't need to plunge in the material. The cutter moves sideways out of the material, moves down in fresh air, and then moves in again. Or they are used for finishing side cuts inside a pocket, where the material has previously been removed to the required depth using a roughing Slot Drill. For the type of work you are doing you will probably not have much use for End Mills - if your viewers order them they are likely to get the wrong thing and have big trouble on their machines trying to make plunge cuts. What they need are called Slot Drills - usually having 2 flutes. cheers, Martin.
Hi Martin, Thanks for the feedback. Historically I believe this is correct but not so much these days and especially in relation to CNC. For example, if you search for a 1/8 slot drill, the result that come up are more for metal milling machines than CNC. But if you search for 1/8 end mill you will get bits for a CNC machine. I believe the development of technology in how the tools are made ultimately broadened the term of what an end mill actually is (or so I read somewhere) and now includes bits that plunge. Either that or the term just got misused with in the CNC industry and it eventually stuck. Either way probably pretty annoying when you're a tool maker and everyone is calling them end mills.
i just bought my genmitsu 4040 yesterday with basic typical accessories. very excited to work on my machine with your advices and information. thanks james
A bit late to the CNC party but I was about to give up until i found your helpful videos. Take the time, set it up right and its a brilliant bit of kit. Thanks for these vidoes. Best help and advice.
Feed and speed calculator? I’m a cabinetmaker by trade that specialises in cnc programming and operating with nearly 30 years of experience. To work out rotation speed you look at the tool specs. Spiral cutters are usually good for 24000 rpm tct and tok cutters are 18000 rpm max with less for larger diameters. To get your feed rate you start with a reasonable number and listen to the machine. A cutter that is rotating and cutting in the sweet spot will run quietly. Not much louder than the spindle itself. Using this method I have managed to make spiral cutters last for over 100 hours before needing to be sharpened.
I completely agree for most part but people watching this video are starting at the lower end of the CNC scale where the spindles top out at 10-12,000rpm and are lower in torque. Finding that sweet spot audibly I think can be quite difficult on budget machines especially when you are new. But the more experienced I gained, the easier it was to listen for that sweet spot
This tutorial and a feeds and speed calculator helps when you are just starting out with a budget machine you bought with your own hard earned money from a Chinese website with Chinese instructions. Especially when you have zero experience with cnc milling, but a passion for making things and no one explaining how to use it. It gives me a great starting point
@@henkpunt4159 I’m speaking from experience. I have my own cheap Chinese machine to mess around with but when I was in the industry I got put on the machines when they only just started to become mainstream so my experience came from trial and error
I have enjoyed watching this informative vid. I have about 3 years of CNC Routing under my belt and learned something new. Well worth my time to watch. I am a subscriber and will be recommending this video.
Nicely done James. A difficult topic to cover fully, but you did it well. And I entirely agree that feed rate and depth of cut are more important than adjusting the speed - most of the time at least (which, I suppose, is a bit like saying "except when it isn't!)
Thank you for your videos! I think im coming back to these once my 3018 has arrived and built. Amazing content. Very easy to listen, comprehensive enough to get started and very clearly explained. Cheers!
Brilliant video James, as a complete novice (my PROVer machine is on its way to NZ !) I found this video very helpful, it answered many of my questions.
Dont forget with the ER series collets; the nuts have an eliptical ring inside. You must insert the collet into the nut first, then slide the milling bit in. We had to replace so many collets at my work because people put the collet in the holder, and tighten the nut over it. This rips the collet up, and prevents it from unlocking properly.
Hey James , thank you so much ! great tutorial and foundation knowledge for me being a newbie … we have a laser incorporated into our studio workshop and just purchased a desktop cnc which we are looking fwd to … will binge watch your channel for more info … thanks a million 🙏 regards Steve (Adelaide Australia)
Man, I really appreciate this video. What a great primer. I also watch a gentleman who swears by the longmill. I myself have a fully-loaded/ATC/aluminum table stepcraft 2 d840 + their own official enclosure. Has taken me LONG (extraordinarily unusual amount of time!) to get it setup on this pandemic/with young kids to protect etc - I am not buying in, I am just saying - I really appreciate your channel very much, especially for this video. I would love to see more content like this. Thank you brother. In the meantime, I have very much enjoyed your diode laser videos & your genmitsu router videos - seems like the best-value starting machine on the market. Would you say that is true, or is it still up in the air? I started with this stepcraft & I do not regret it, though the price is a lot better on the genmitsu machine & it seems very well put together - the upgradability is very nice on it.
New 3020 machine and greatly appreciate the insight, presentation style, and common sense approach. Compared to my scroll saw projects, CNC projects lean into the setup and technical aspects for creativity more than the creativity of hands-on feeding/turning wood into the blade. Hopefully, at the end of the finished project, I will be equally (though differently) pleased. Thanks, again.
Awesome James.. here is an idea for a future video: Runout - what it is, how it affects your cuts and how to measure and improve it. I spent quite some time with the 3018 developing a quick way to measure it and ways to improve it. For ~ 0.1mm engravings it can make a difference in the final result!
That would be a tough video for James to do. Wood, depths, bits all effect your cuts. You can take and set a 90 vbit to do a depth cut and it look right on the screen and the vbit will blow out the carve due to the need of a endmill being needed to do the step down to prevent the blowout. It's a super big area to try and cover in a short video
As I am starting to learn, I thought to myself that I needed to learn more about bits and was hoping you had a video as I learn better by video first then reading. Thanks for the great video and awesome info.
Great video at the perfect time. I’m experimenting with bits on carving out names, i.e. key chains. 1/16 corn cobs work pretty good. 80 degree, not so much.
Generally, you want to choke up as high on the shaft as possible with the collet to reduce run-out. When you're cutting wood tho, I guess run-out tolerances must be pretty lenient so it probably won't matter that much.
This tutorial is great and thank you for spending the time to make. I do love DeskProto, as when you setup a tool it gives a starting point of feeds & speed , and once you get to a sweet spot then you can go an edit the tool with the correct settings for that tool and name it Like 3mm Flat End 2 flute Pine kiln dried and your have those tools and settings at hand in a nice organised list Best thing is, its a lot cheaper the Vcarve, and I own that to but find DeskProto better to work with.
Very good explanation to try break the mystery of bits, Feed rates. Chip load & V-Carve. As you said it is a confusing loop, but importantly we don't need to get hung up on the detail, look & listen to what the CNC is doing, how to interpret difference between smooth running cuts & chattering, noisy cuts. I don't know all this will resolve my particular V-Carve problem of rough bands approx located 1-2 & 7-8 on a clock face.had it on 3018 & 4030, ! Anny ideas? I don't think it's feeds & speeds or dull bit as 90% perfect!
AS usual a verry good video , you are a good engineering instructor , and i like your instructions ; it reminds me empirical itterations ...thanks a lot
Great job James, when you talk about the chips produced, is it possible to see an example of good and not so good, (English oak being one of the woods I’m really struggling with. Sorry for newbie question. TIA.
Hi James, Did you mean Feed of 500 not speed at about 25 - 26 mins. I think you used speed twice in stead of feed. Just trying to help. Very interesting Vid. Thanks. Jim
You are right. It was nearly 8 minutes straight talking with no break, I was bound to get something wrong 😄. I'm surprised I kept it all in a single take
Just wanted to say thanks for these vids, I'm a complete beginner. Helped massively. Is a Roland/Techsoft TS-30 a good machine? or would the £800 have been better spent on something else?
As usual your vid's are very good. We need some help in a different direction... Where can we buy a single replacement blue-coated corncob bit? SS does not sell single corncob bits nor ten-packs of a single corncob size bit - only a ten-kit of different sizes. I need two bits to refill my kit gaps - but HOW? 🙃
I got some Bits from amazon and im struggling to add them to Easel There is not option for the Corn cob ones Could you help Define them The choices are Compression , Upcut , Straight cut Downcut , And the last one is V cut which i know it's not that
Hi James. Thanks for your videos on this 3018 unit. They are very informitive. Do you think the upgrade of spindle motor to 20,000rpm motor is a good upgrade to do?... Is it beneficial for cutting/engraving quality or is the 10,000 rpm good enough?
Thanks James, I'm still in the research phase, but loving your videos. Is there value in running an initial down cut pass and then a subsequent up cut pass? Would you even bother? Cheers, JAYTEE
If you have a powerful enough machine then you use the compression bits, buy yes, using a downcut to begin with will get you cleaner surface results especially on something like ply wood
Just so people know. The spindle bits that come with the machines are not for cutting. Which is naughty because they don't tell you this. You have to buy the cutting parts separately. So order them first. Very frustrating when you have a project lined up & you can't do it
Speeds/Feeds is what I was after... being new I don't know is 100rpm, 1000rpm, or 10000rpm is fast or slow. Plus, trying to setup my machine... some people say the motors on the 3018-Pro are 2000rpm, 3000rpm, 10000rpm and 20000rpm.... ???No idea what's right and no idea where to start.
So RPM is revolutions per minute - basically the higher the number so 10000RPM means it spins around 10000 times in 1 minute. A standard 3018Pro is usually 9000 or 10,000. Generally speaking you run them at more or less full speed the whole time unless doing things such as acrylic, then you may want to use a lower RPM value
Hi James, Great video again. Thanks. I need to know something. I hope you can help. I want to make a branding iron from brass with my 3018. Is iti possible? if yes, which bits and speed/feed would you use ? Thanks in advance. My best
Hi Kem, Its nothing local, just terminology I have picked up on and seems to be used across the CNC groups. I know for me, when I search cnc rotary rasp, the ones that's come up are more like the gold set I feature in this video but you might be right. They seem to go under variations as well like corn-mill and corn-shaped
Hi James, I'm trying to add V bits to easel and I'm not sure how to input the specs properly. For a V bit that has a tip of 0.1mm, 20 degree angle and 1/8 shank, should I input 0.1mm or 3mm (1/8inch) as cutting diameter? I suppose that if the v-bit is fully plunged in to work piece, it will cut at a diameter of 1/8 inch (same as the shank size)? Thanks!!
SpeTool Introduction Bit Set
spetools.com/products/spetool-wd-2-router-bits-set-8-pcs-1-4-shank?ref=JDDesigns
Bit selections from Sainsmart
amzn.to/3p0O8kn
Bits from FoxAlien
www.foxalien.com/collections/...
Bits from Spe Tools
amzn.to/3lNko8R
Amana tools from Tooltoday
shrsl.com/37eun
Hands down the best channel for beginners. Thanks a lot James, keep up the great work.
Thank you. That means a lot 👍
Over the last year, I have watched this video several times. I keep on catching new things I missed the first time. Thank you for making this one.
Thanks for all these quality videos.
Props to both you and Graham Bland.
You are both deserving of a lot of praise!
Much appreciated! Graham probably deserves more than me as I've gained a lot knowledge from him :)
Thank you James. I'm a beginner and this information is what I've been needing and missing. Plus, I now understand why there is no 'Use this speed and feed rates' video.
I would love to be able to do a video or guide like that and make it easy. Maybe someone will come up with an app or calculator one day to do it all for us
I've been following this channel for a year or so and chatted with you a few times and always appreciated the info. I took time off from CNC to learn my 3d printers and now concentrating on learning the CNC. Lots more videos now than a year ago. Looks like a good time to start back up again. Cheers.
Hi Michael and welcome back 😁
If only I'd have watched the video first!!! One laminated guide is now hanging in the workshop :)
After all of my own research and I don't know how many videos I have watched, you have been my go to channel James. Always great information in the way I prefer to hear a presentation. I have finally taken the plunge and have ordered my machine which is coming in this week. I decided on the Proverxl 6050 after looking at so many machines. I'm excited to get started and what a great enhancement to my newly constructed workshop. Thanks again James for always providing quality content. Cheers from Utah ! Thumbs up for sure. ;-)
Really appreciate comments like this 😁 good luck with your new machine 👍
Thanks for taking your time to explain all the difference and applications for which the bits should be used for.
Glad it helped
Hi James, great videos!
As a toolmaker may I point out an error in your terminology? What you are calling an End Mill is in fact a Slot Drill.
The difference is important because true End Mills cannot do plunge cuts. They have usually 4 flutes, and the cutting edges on the bottom do not meet in the middle. Which means they don't cut the full area of the bottom surface - if you try to plunge with them you will have a crash. They are mainly used in metal cutting, moving sideways into material to make slots and rebates. The reason for using them is that they can cut faster with a better finish than a Slot Drill in situations where you don't need to plunge in the material. The cutter moves sideways out of the material, moves down in fresh air, and then moves in again. Or they are used for finishing side cuts inside a pocket, where the material has previously been removed to the required depth using a roughing Slot Drill.
For the type of work you are doing you will probably not have much use for End Mills - if your viewers order them they are likely to get the wrong thing and have big trouble on their machines trying to make plunge cuts. What they need are called Slot Drills - usually having 2 flutes.
cheers,
Martin.
Hi Martin, Thanks for the feedback. Historically I believe this is correct but not so much these days and especially in relation to CNC. For example, if you search for a 1/8 slot drill, the result that come up are more for metal milling machines than CNC. But if you search for 1/8 end mill you will get bits for a CNC machine. I believe the development of technology in how the tools are made ultimately broadened the term of what an end mill actually is (or so I read somewhere) and now includes bits that plunge. Either that or the term just got misused with in the CNC industry and it eventually stuck. Either way probably pretty annoying when you're a tool maker and everyone is calling them end mills.
Love your tutorials man. Helps me out a lot. Clear and detailed explanations! Keep it up!
First channel with usefull information. Great job James and thank you for what you're doing.
i just bought my genmitsu 4040 yesterday with basic typical accessories. very excited to work on my machine with your advices and information. thanks james
Excellent. Hope you enjoy it :)
Thanks for this and the others you have done. Always pleasantly surprised by knowledgeable people sharing valuable knowledge.
Thanks to Leo for leading me to your channel. I am now a subscriber. Great job.
Excellent. Hope you find it useful 👍
A bit late to the CNC party but I was about to give up until i found your helpful videos. Take the time, set it up right and its a brilliant bit of kit. Thanks for these vidoes. Best help and advice.
Thank you. Glad they have helped 👍
Keep up the good work James, I’m learning so much from you. Thank you!
Feed and speed calculator? I’m a cabinetmaker by trade that specialises in cnc programming and operating with nearly 30 years of experience. To work out rotation speed you look at the tool specs. Spiral cutters are usually good for 24000 rpm tct and tok cutters are 18000 rpm max with less for larger diameters. To get your feed rate you start with a reasonable number and listen to the machine. A cutter that is rotating and cutting in the sweet spot will run quietly. Not much louder than the spindle itself. Using this method I have managed to make spiral cutters last for over 100 hours before needing to be sharpened.
I completely agree for most part but people watching this video are starting at the lower end of the CNC scale where the spindles top out at 10-12,000rpm and are lower in torque. Finding that sweet spot audibly I think can be quite difficult on budget machines especially when you are new. But the more experienced I gained, the easier it was to listen for that sweet spot
This tutorial and a feeds and speed calculator helps when you are just starting out with a budget machine you bought with your own hard earned money from a Chinese website with Chinese instructions. Especially when you have zero experience with cnc milling, but a passion for making things and no one explaining how to use it. It gives me a great starting point
@@henkpunt4159 I’m speaking from experience. I have my own cheap Chinese machine to mess around with but when I was in the industry I got put on the machines when they only just started to become mainstream so my experience came from trial and error
rey to find a side hustle training AI to tune CNC from the sound so your experience doesn’t get lost. ;)
I have enjoyed watching this informative vid. I have about 3 years of CNC Routing under my belt and learned something new. Well worth my time to watch. I am a subscriber and will be recommending this video.
Nicely done James. A difficult topic to cover fully, but you did it well. And I entirely agree that feed rate and depth of cut are more important than adjusting the speed - most of the time at least (which, I suppose, is a bit like saying "except when it isn't!)
Thank you for your videos! I think im coming back to these once my 3018 has arrived and built. Amazing content. Very easy to listen, comprehensive enough to get started and very clearly explained. Cheers!
Thank you very much 😁
Brilliant video James, as a complete novice (my PROVer machine is on its way to NZ !) I found this video very helpful, it answered many of my questions.
Excellent. Thats good to hear
*Excellent overview of bits and even the concepts of F&S !!*
Good job James, the feeds and speed comment about experimenting with your bit and your machine is the best advice.
Thanks 👍
You're the man James! Keep it up. You'll be at 100k subscribers in no time.
I just started using my 3018 a month ago and this video was super helpful to understanding bits thanks
Dont forget with the ER series collets; the nuts have an eliptical ring inside. You must insert the collet into the nut first, then slide the milling bit in. We had to replace so many collets at my work because people put the collet in the holder, and tighten the nut over it. This rips the collet up, and prevents it from unlocking properly.
Good point Neil
hi, all your video's are first class, very infomative, keep the great video's up.
Glad you like them! Thank you
Hey James , thank you so much ! great tutorial and foundation knowledge for me being a newbie … we have a laser incorporated into our studio workshop and just purchased a desktop cnc which we are looking fwd to … will binge watch your channel for more info … thanks a million 🙏 regards Steve (Adelaide Australia)
Man, I really appreciate this video. What a great primer. I also watch a gentleman who swears by the longmill. I myself have a fully-loaded/ATC/aluminum table stepcraft 2 d840 + their own official enclosure. Has taken me LONG (extraordinarily unusual amount of time!) to get it setup on this pandemic/with young kids to protect etc - I am not buying in, I am just saying - I really appreciate your channel very much, especially for this video. I would love to see more content like this. Thank you brother. In the meantime, I have very much enjoyed your diode laser videos & your genmitsu router videos - seems like the best-value starting machine on the market. Would you say that is true, or is it still up in the air? I started with this stepcraft & I do not regret it, though the price is a lot better on the genmitsu machine & it seems very well put together - the upgradability is very nice on it.
Brilliant video. Very informative and very professional. Thank you. 👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you James. You have no idea how valuable your videos to me 😊
Bravo 👏 great video for beginners, plenty of information and easy to understand! Thank You
Glad it was helpful!
New 3020 machine and greatly appreciate the insight, presentation style, and common sense approach. Compared to my scroll saw projects, CNC projects lean into the setup and technical aspects for creativity more than the creativity of hands-on feeding/turning wood into the blade. Hopefully, at the end of the finished project, I will be equally (though differently) pleased. Thanks, again.
Very good explanations about a very complex subject. And it definitely does reinforce testing and experimentation. Thanks.
Thank you!
Awesome content. It's refreshing to get great information delivered precisely and clearly. Keep up the great work. Thumbs up all around.
Awesome James.. here is an idea for a future video: Runout - what it is, how it affects your cuts and how to measure and improve it. I spent quite some time with the 3018 developing a quick way to measure it and ways to improve it. For ~ 0.1mm engravings it can make a difference in the final result!
It really can, even things such as actually measuring your bits and using the actual measurements makes a difference.
That would be a tough video for James to do. Wood, depths, bits all effect your cuts. You can take and set a 90 vbit to do a depth cut and it look right on the screen and the vbit will blow out the carve due to the need of a endmill being needed to do the step down to prevent the blowout. It's a super big area to try and cover in a short video
As I am starting to learn, I thought to myself that I needed to learn more about bits and was hoping you had a video as I learn better by video first then reading. Thanks for the great video and awesome info.
No problem, having some background knowledge always helps before getting stuck in :)
Thanks James, another excellent learning tool!
Thank you 🙏
Thanks James, that helped so much in understanding what bits I need to start off with. Excellent video as always!
Thank you 👍
-MASTER CLASS- Thanks James for doing this video, better is imposible. Greetings from Guatemala XD
Thank you. Thats a great compliment
Thanks so much for the videos you provide. You are truly a master of relaying information in a down to earth and concise method. Cheers mate.
You are very welcome and thank you for the kind words
Great video at the perfect time. I’m experimenting with bits on carving out names, i.e. key chains. 1/16 corn cobs work pretty good. 80 degree, not so much.
Your videos are amazing. Certainly giving me the confidence I need to start my CNC journey. Thank you so much
Glad to hear that 😁
Once you've set your Z probe up like in the video, you just run the Z probe command before every job
Thank you, very informative and well explained.
Thanks 😊
Generally, you want to choke up as high on the shaft as possible with the collet to reduce run-out. When you're cutting wood tho, I guess run-out tolerances must be pretty lenient so it probably won't matter that much.
Thank you for the great video. You make so easy to understand all the technical details.
I love your channel
Thats really kind. Thank you very much.
Great Vid. Thanks a lot, very informative, just starting my CNC journey. Keep up the great work.
Super helpful. I'm very thankful
Glad it helped!
Thank you James, very interesting.
Glad you enjoyed it
Brilliant explanation! So much terrific information!
Glad it was helpful!
This tutorial is great and thank you for spending the time to make.
I do love DeskProto, as when you setup a tool it gives a starting point of feeds & speed , and once you get to a sweet spot then you can go an edit the tool with the correct settings for that tool and name it
Like 3mm Flat End 2 flute Pine kiln dried
and your have those tools and settings at hand in a nice organised list
Best thing is, its a lot cheaper the Vcarve, and I own that to but find DeskProto better to work with.
Very good explanation to try break the mystery of bits, Feed rates. Chip load & V-Carve. As you said it is a confusing loop, but importantly we don't need to get hung up on the detail, look & listen to what the CNC is doing, how to interpret difference between smooth running cuts & chattering, noisy cuts.
I don't know all this will resolve my particular V-Carve problem of rough bands approx located 1-2 & 7-8 on a clock face.had it on 3018 & 4030, !
Anny ideas? I don't think it's feeds & speeds or dull bit as 90% perfect!
Thanks John. Send some photos on Facebook. Sounds odd that's its on both opposite diagonals.
Thanks for a great video with so much useful information!
Thanks James, again a great video
Glad they help 👍
thank you. im a newbie here. can't wait to build the machine and build.
Hope you enjoy it :)
Excellent video explained so well
Great video mate, very informative.
Thanks 👍
Great Job, Well explained
Excellent tutorial, thank you.
Great information. Thank you.
Thanks. This was very informative.
Glad you enjoyed it :)
AS usual a verry good video , you are a good engineering instructor , and i like your instructions ; it reminds me empirical itterations ...thanks a lot
Thank you very much. Glad you've found it useful 👍
@@JamesDeanDesigns I'm so gladfull to hear you, so keep ongoing
You are doing a great kob
Job
Great, helpful video. Thanks.
Excelent video, thanks again!
- Great presentation.
- Thx.
Great job James, when you talk about the chips produced, is it possible to see an example of good and not so good, (English oak being one of the woods I’m really struggling with. Sorry for newbie question. TIA.
Perfect video
thank you so much, this is a lot of help
Thank you. Awesome info!!!
Glad to help
Thank You!
Excellent! Thanks.
Thanks for the quality video, what software do you use?
fab video !
Thanks for the video.
Great job James. I just got Ex pro. I was wondering if you can tell me about where to get collets that fit my spindle .to accommodate 1/4 bits
Lots of great info here, thanks! I would suggest the use of "obviously" should be avoided in anything called a beginner's guide, though. 10:35
Outstanding!!
Glad you like it!
James,
Can you provide video examples of good and bad feed rates? Us newbies have a hard time with that ‘feel’ you mention.
Awesome video! Though I did get an ad for mental health services while watching so maybe that is a bad omen lol
I am struggling with cutting foamboards and coroplast material. What bits will be recommended for softer materials?
Hi James, Did you mean Feed of 500 not speed at about 25 - 26 mins. I think you used speed twice in stead of feed. Just trying to help. Very interesting Vid. Thanks. Jim
You are right. It was nearly 8 minutes straight talking with no break, I was bound to get something wrong 😄. I'm surprised I kept it all in a single take
FAR better than I could do James. Well done. Jim
Just wanted to say thanks for these vids, I'm a complete beginner. Helped massively.
Is a Roland/Techsoft TS-30 a good machine? or would the £800 have been better spent on something else?
30:10 GD JD, this is a GD GOOD video.
As usual your vid's are very good. We need some help in a different direction...
Where can we buy a single replacement blue-coated corncob bit? SS does not sell single corncob bits nor ten-packs of a single corncob size bit - only a ten-kit of different sizes. I need two bits to refill my kit gaps - but HOW? 🙃
I got some Bits from amazon and im struggling to add them to Easel There is not option for the Corn cob ones Could you help Define them The choices are Compression , Upcut , Straight cut Downcut , And the last one is V cut which i know it's not that
Hi James, great video, please do you have a cut plan for the enclosure for your CNC machines ?
Hi James. Thanks for your videos on this 3018 unit. They are very informitive. Do you think the upgrade of spindle motor to 20,000rpm motor is a good upgrade to do?... Is it beneficial for cutting/engraving quality or is the 10,000 rpm good enough?
I am learning cnc and English as well ^=^
Keep it up
The link to Grahams guide is not working. Never mind I got it thank you for this and all the videos you do.
Sometimes it takes a while to load but glad you got it
Ummmmmm I cant find the link….please help🙄🤦♀️
Bull - BOOL. Like Pool. Ball, Ball, like you said. AUSTRALIAN REVOLUTION! GOD BLESS FARMERS EVERYWHERE.
Thanks James, I'm still in the research phase, but loving your videos. Is there value in running an initial down cut pass and then a subsequent up cut pass? Would you even bother? Cheers, JAYTEE
If you have a powerful enough machine then you use the compression bits, buy yes, using a downcut to begin with will get you cleaner surface results especially on something like ply wood
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks, I'm just mentally working through the processes ;)
Just so people know. The spindle bits that come with the machines are not for cutting. Which is naughty because they don't tell you this. You have to buy the cutting parts separately. So order them first. Very frustrating when you have a project lined up & you can't do it
Speeds/Feeds is what I was after... being new I don't know is 100rpm, 1000rpm, or 10000rpm is fast or slow. Plus, trying to setup my machine... some people say the motors on the 3018-Pro are 2000rpm, 3000rpm, 10000rpm and 20000rpm.... ???No idea what's right and no idea where to start.
So RPM is revolutions per minute - basically the higher the number so 10000RPM means it spins around 10000 times in 1 minute. A standard 3018Pro is usually 9000 or 10,000. Generally speaking you run them at more or less full speed the whole time unless doing things such as acrylic, then you may want to use a lower RPM value
Looking to do a juice groove for a cutting board. Need 1/8” shank. Any recommendations?
Hi James, Great video again. Thanks.
I need to know something. I hope you can help.
I want to make a branding iron from brass with my 3018. Is iti possible? if yes, which bits and speed/feed would you use ?
Thanks in advance. My best
Not sure if it's just local terminology, but I've always heard the "corn cob bits" referred to as rotary rasps.
Hi Kem, Its nothing local, just terminology I have picked up on and seems to be used across the CNC groups. I know for me, when I search cnc rotary rasp, the ones that's come up are more like the gold set I feature in this video but you might be right. They seem to go under variations as well like corn-mill and corn-shaped
Newbie question: What material did you use for those cream-coloured pieces, please?
Some sort of laminated ply?
Thanks
Hi James, I'm trying to add V bits to easel and I'm not sure how to input the specs properly. For a V bit that has a tip of 0.1mm, 20 degree angle and 1/8 shank, should I input 0.1mm or 3mm (1/8inch) as cutting diameter? I suppose that if the v-bit is fully plunged in to work piece, it will cut at a diameter of 1/8 inch (same as the shank size)? Thanks!!