The front body mounts could be straight aluminum notched in the bottom to straddle the CF chassis and a screw straight through to basically clamp them down on the chassis rails.
I just wanna sit down and have a talk with whoever decided to make frame rail spacing and body post spacing EXACTLY THE SAME I know that it's a problem that hits me more than others, as I'm routinely trying to fit a pre-cut/drilled body to something new.
I’ve just ordered one of these chassis from Amazon UK it’s branded AMC and I’ve ordered rails only for my element RC, I also have a Gspeed for element builders kit 2 and a mod Ecto. Good video, love the rig 😊
That was a great video, I'm always torn about lowering my cg on my Capra, I find in a garden environment, we tend to have more sharp edges and flats than natural nature, but it's nice to know I can adjust my shock mounts and lower by 3 eights anytime I need. Oh love duratrax tyres, they work great on my 4ws capra. Lovin your content, that's one awesome home set up you've built. Brilliant work. Thanks for sharing. John
I know what you means about "jaggies," as much of my course was built with portals in mind, so there are some sections that are much tougher on straight-axle rigs. That said, LCG with portals under it is great, because you get to keep the ground clearance but lower the CG. Welp, I guess I need another set of portal axles! And another chassis!
Good to know! I was wondering how it would work. I have a set of capra axles laying around and I was thinking about getting this kit to throw something together cheap.
Thank you I’ve been looking at LCG carbon frame rails & also the Rock Pirate’s frame rails. I’m not sure if I’ll get a set for my TRX Sport truck or Sendero which has the Element chassis. Nice to see the rails installed then right onto the rocks.
They're called countersunk washers or finishing washers. The price linked is fairly typical, but if you did around you can sometimes find a crazy low price on some odd color. www.amazon.com/dp/B09MKGTR57 You can also find counterbore washers, which are the same sort of thing but for cap heads. www.amazon.com/Counterbore-Anodized-Aluminum-Mechanical-Accessories/dp/B09MKL1XZL
They'll undoubtedly make mounting easier, but I doubt they'll work with existing holes. Because in the divine wisdom of Mfrs. like Axial, Vanquish, Element (and others) the post holes are the exact same width as the chassis rails. Any bolt-on body mount is going to put the posts inside or outside of the rails. Not a problem if the body isn't already drilled.
I run the Gozer body on my ecto as well. It's a little chubby but looks cool. Great video. Negative G makes plug and play lcg kits for trx4, scxiii, phoenix, and capra...all you need is a donor vehicle and electrics. They are amazing, idkw they dont get noticed..
My guess would be $$$. The Negative G offerings are one of, if not the most, expensive LCG options out there. A good bit more expensive than a Sherpa, which is (at least to me) properly expensive. I remember ogling the TC-V1, but... I just couldn't.
Wait till you try a forward skid flat rail LCG chassis!! I think Fimonda RC Official (on Ali Express) has a complete "pick only the components you want" setup for theirs. I'd love to see your thoughts on that one!
i have the deadloc lcg chassis for my element enduro so far its a great chassis for 60$ but this one has peaked my interest with more shock positions and also with the skid location
Well I mean... sometimes you get what you pay for. But despite the number of rigs in my ever growing fleet, I'm not the $175 LCG guy. This one is way more in my wheelhouse.
Good intel. Thanks. Maybe confused, the link take me to parts that don't show the rails for 45.00 are the rails sold ad a separate option? Maybe I missed something in the video.
They're apparently all sold out-- from that seller. Such is my power, I guess.🤣 There's another seller (which is also just a pile of consonants) selling the exact same chassis: www.amazon.com/RXZIXYL-Carbon-Chassis-Crawler-Straight/dp/B0BGQK6K65. Same price as well.
Really appreciate your video and the info included. I currently have a rtr gatekeeper (my first and only crawler, for now) and I'm ready to do a lcg build. A few questions for you. Will you share links to the Amazon servo and wheels you're running on Yella? Where can I find portals that won't hurt my wallet? Lastly, I'm thinking of getting the element builders kit 2 instead of buying all the major components (shocks, Trans, links, etc) separately. Your thoughts will be greatly appreciated! After watching your video I'm ordering this chassis now. Thanks again for your video and any knowledge you're willing to share!
Yella is running an AGFRC SA75 for servo: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09133W2B2 and deep clones of SSD steelies: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B51PPJ8K The cheapest way to get portals, other than buying chinesium from Amazon (which will have gears of questionable quality) is to get some take-offs from a parts house like Jenny's RC. I've gotten TRX-4 axles from them several times. When it comes to getting multiple components, it's always cheaper to buy a kit or builder's kit compared to buying piece by piece. A pair of axles alone is $100-125 (not including Vanquish) while a whole kit will go around $250-300. The Builder's Kit 2 is a great deal.
That’s funny.i just saw this on Amazon .i have been looking to swap my gate keeper on to a chassis like this.looks like yella performs great now.any issues with the front shaft being shortened at all?
With all of the LCGs I've done myself, the front driveshaft invariably has to be shortened. My advice is: when building, put the driveshafts on last, and hold them up in place to see how much need be adjusted. I've had to do significant mods to some, while others-- like in this rig-- I took ~7mm off of the slider section and was done. As long as link placement doesn't interfere with the driveshafts, it shouldn't ever pose an issue. Lastly, the shorter front shaft means the gearbox has effectively moved closer to the front axle, so if nothing else, the weight bias moves slightly forward and down.
The rails are all you need, really. As I did here, you can just bolt a whole Element in, then figure out the body mounts. I ended up using all of the remaining parts that came in the "kit" on other builds.
Amazon link is still good, theres an option for just the rails for $37! I'd be tempted to scan these on a office scanner (ie for paper) digitize them and start making adjustments. Could be fun.
I keep eyeballing getting another one. Though when I sit and try to think about what rig to use it on... I can't think of anything. So I'm saving myself from myself.
Fantastic.I got inspired and got a set of those rails. NOW... I hope I can pick your brain with a few questions. I got the same trans and I'll use AR44's. What do you think about portals with the rig and maybe 80 or 90mm shocks? Second I truly like to have a 4WS set up and set it with servos over axles. Since I'm quite new to this I keep on looking for 2 front Axles on eBay and amazon but I'm not sure I can find what I need. Would you be so kind as to put a link for the correct axles for 4WS? Thanks a million.
I think an LCG is a great choice for a rig with portals, because you can bring that CG down a bit-- ground clearance and lower CG is what we all want. As to axles, you can SOA most any axle, it's just that some are easier than others. Element axles or AR44s are nice because there's a variety of mounts out there, and they're all pretty inexpensive. I give the edge to Element for smoothness, but a performance advantage to the AR44 for being high-pinion-- and having a variety of under/overdrive gears available. So I would lean toward AR44s. Though if you are considering portals, don't discount TRX-4 axles. The only downside there being that the availability of SOA mounts that AREN'T 3D printed is pretty slim. The axles, gears, and portal boxes are tough as nails, though. The problem with cheap metal housing axles (like what are all over Amazon and eBay) is that you never know the quality of the housings or the gears-- you can be sure that the gears will be sintered and the housings cast, but there is a wide range of quality with regards to those parts. You might save some money and get lucky, you might end up with "you get what you pay for." So as to a link? I wish I could help. Sourcing axles is the toughest part of any of my builds-- getting TRX-4 take-offs from Jenny's is the closest I get to being able to just buy axles when I need them, and even at that a pair of fronts is about $140. Keep checking forums/classifieds, keep checking eBay, or just bite the bullet for Axial axle kits (AX31438) which will give you quality parts (and you'll have a bunch of stuff left over) but still run you about $160. Everything in crawling is reasonably economical... until you get to bodies... and axles.
@@CrawlerCanyon thanks a million for your kind response. Perhaps once it’s done sometime in the futureI cam stop by your place and I can learn a thing or two or a lot 😁. I don’t think we are too far from each other. I’m in Palmdale CA. Cheers and again thank you very much
I've been scouring the Google to try to find something at least close, and aside from the common factor of them all being LCGs, nothing out there looks really similar. Some of the NSWD offerings are WILD though. This makes me feel better, as I make some small effort not to buy obvious clones of boutique stuff. I rationalize SSD-clone wheels, because I recognize that they were probably stamped in the same building.
@@CrawlerCanyon Well as of right now it doesn't matter. It seems all the loons bought every one of them. Completely out of stock and will no longer return. Foiled once more I guess.
Behold, my power! MWAHAHA! But seriously though, if you can't have one random assortment of consonants, there's always another. The RXZIYL appears to be the identical item: www.amazon.com/RXZIXYL-Carbon-Chassis-Crawler-Straight/dp/B0BGQK6K65 And potential bonus, available as rails only for 37 bucks: www.amazon.com/RXZIXYL-Carbon-Chassis-Crawler-Straight/dp/B0BBXQ9RCG
What wheels are those. I heard you say ssd wides in the video. But I've searched and searched the net and can't find those. I like deep dish wheels. Appreciate the video. Wanting to lcg my trx4
Ok thank you. I had just found those earlier. Would like to find some that's wide. Even wider then the rc4wd deep dish. I know boom racing has some extra wide wheels. I have a few sets of their pro builds. But they don't have a wagon wheel style
@@badkatzfishin4009 I've never seen steelies on "big" rings. I have a set of clone 105s with 35mm rings, and they make the tire about 2mm wider than being mounted on 24mm rings.
How close to you want to stay to the Sport? Like, are you doing this for a performance bump, or are you looking to convert? For just a performance bump that won't change the geometry or require a bunch of new stuff, the Morlordy rails off of Amazon are great-- I just did a review a few days ago. For a full-blown conversion, I haven't gotten one (yet) but the Dr. Climbenstein from UGRC looks bonkers, and is where I would go if I were going for a full LCG conversion on TRX-4 portals.
@@CrawlerCanyon Thankyou, ill check out your video, was mainly trying to cut out some weight and maybe a little performance bump, would like to keep my 1979 Bronco hard body coz it cost me a fortune 😆 but I like experimenting and re building so I'll check the bonkers one 😉
@@neildaniels5443 The Morlordy be a direct bolt-on, as it uses stock towers, braces, etc. Drops right around 7oz of sprung weight-- to the point that I had to drop spring rate all around.
I sure do. Episode 1 in this playlist has my fabrication of the GroundFaux: ruclips.net/p/PLZRl9WrWIiCdJLs4mRLrYaL8temC5W6PV Parts 1&2 cover the initial "LCG" build, while Part 6 has revision 2: ruclips.net/p/PLZRl9WrWIiCeFjRzhelVBy_s3m80kj5pQ I the stretched Capra chassis is built in Part 2: ruclips.net/p/PLZRl9WrWIiCfm0ppHI9_BjTZ_J6gwxcPU Zoidberg is now on a second revision LCG as well, I just can't remember what I titled that one. 🤷♂️
Late to the party. Just transplanted this chassis into a gspeed. This chassis works way better bought 4 more gonna transplant to all my current gspeeds
I think there are three running? It's one of those big covered carriers with the lift inside, so there's at least two in there. It's been so long since I've seen them and not just heard them, I can't remember what colors they are.
Hey man! I really appreciate your videos, I've learned a lot from them! I was actually considering buying this chassis but weren't sure if it'd fit my Enduro kit but after watching this i ordered one. Also love that front bumper, do you remember where you got it from or the brand? Thanks!
I looked through Facebook, and there's a "The Crawler Canyon," a group in the Vegas area, and "Crawler Canyon RC Park" which is in the Chicago area. This explains why I often get tagged on IG and see posts from stuff/people I don't know. I guess the place in Chicago doesn't have an IG. I know that if I set up a page or group on FB, I would forget to update it immediately, so I made one anyway. Then I tried to search for it and can't even find my own page. FB does not promote unless they see it as something worthy of monetization.
I just use servo tape. Well, I go back and forth between clear "Gorilla Mounting Tape," Yeah Racing clear servo tape, and some stuff I found at the Daiso for 75¢. Best I can tell, they're all the same stuff.
Kind sir, you in my eyes are man to ask this question. Will the Injora lcg chassis fit the hightrail 336 mm wheelbase? Says all trx4 models, yet I cannot find a carbon fiber chassis. I assume Id be swapping the suspension parts over. Have you heard of anyone doing this?
I think it would fit fine. In virtually every case, wheelbase is altered by changing the rear links only-- I can't think of a rig that has links changed at both ends. So worst case, your rear shocks are laid down a little more, and the rear axle is closer to the bumper mount. But I'm running ~330mm on rigs "built" for 313mm and there's never really an issue.
Hay great video ... I bought a second 3 gear trans with dig from Amazon ...I have issue set screw on front locking disk of dig DO YOU KNOW THE SIZE OF THE ALLEN HEAD SET SCREW? Not the same size as a Vanquish Hurtz Dig units ..
Yah I ordered a new set of hex drivers. Is there a brand you like best? Got set from Amazon try if I think their crap" RETURN TOO SENDED ADDRSS UNKOWN">>lol@@CrawlerCanyon
@@tomandrews5392 For my everyday, "use 'em all the time" drivers, I go for MIP. I have the bit inserts as well as the handled drivers. I put off buying them for a VERY long time, and regret that. They're just so good, and i essentially consider them an investment. For (most) everything else, like nutdrivers, or hexes I might use once in a blue moon, I tend to stick to Wiha. Really inexpensive, and they're honestly pretty good. In Amazon tool terms (that is, the imported stuff sold from sellers whose names are just a pile of loosely related letters,) the only RC-specific tool I'm 100% pleased with are my shock pliers. They're fantastic. But the bit inserts and hex drivers are pretty terrible.
I just use clear servo tape between the bracket and the servo. On some of my battery-on-servo rigs, I just have the battery velcro-strapped to the servo with no tray. The tray is preferable.
Agreed… it’s my go to car channel! On a bizarre side note. You did say everything is content. In one of your upcoming videos. If possible can you do a quick review of your Apple ultra watch - positives and negatives. I don’t trust the reviews out there. It would be most appreciated.
I have a question maybe you can help me with, I have the same lcg kit mine came with the skid being 78mm and the delete, spacers are 70mm would this be correct because the chassis is wider in the middle and smaller on each end doesn't seem right but I've never put one of these together. Thanks
Yes, generally chassis' will have a "pinch" at each end. Thin CF plate makes that bend really easily. The TRX-4 has such a difference between middle and ends that the CF chassis is made of separate front, middle, and end pieces.
Right here on good old Amazon: amzn.to/40laHjU I'm currently running five of them in the fleet. Be aware: when you get one, completely take it apart, oil all the bearings, grease all the gears, and replace the included fasteners with better ones. Some work involved when a dig gearbox is THAT cheap. The JX4409 is a great servo for the dig: amzn.to/3Jqtwwi
I think if you put any/all of the LCG offerings out there (maybe excluding the Sherpa) they all look pretty similar. But I haven't located one that looks REALLY close. The ATL (versions 1 or 2) doesn't look any closer than the Scattergun or any others. I think this is because when overseas companies knock something off, they look at the biggest market share they can, and LCG chassis for rock crawlers is a niche inside a niche-- I can't imagine any one mfr. has sold more than a few thousand at the absolute most. Triple digits is more likely. I'm also curious as to why the boutique builders are almost always out of stock. Well, not really. It's outsourcing. Plate + machine = chassis, unless you have to farm out the work.
@@CrawlerCanyon that one looks a lil different than the one I have previously bought.. the one I have laid next to my gspeed v3 nearly lays identical only difference is v3 has more rise at the ends of the chassis and the shock hoops are a lil shorter.. imo definitely not 100s of dollars worth if difference ya know,?
If your motor isn't "Fusion long" you can clock the gearbox sideways a bit to get it out of the way of the links (usually) but will be limited by driveshaft angle (usually) depending on your axles. Unbolt two of the screws from the center skid and see how much you can rotate the gearbox-- sometimes it doesn't take much. The more-fabrication option is a spacer/plate/shim to angle the gearbox on the axis you need it angled on. I have a 2Low in one of my custom chassis, which was NOT designed to fit that gearbox, so I had to make an adpater plate that both angles the box left to right and tips the gearbox front to rear. It's an annoying gearbox to mount in 80% of chassis.
@@CrawlerCanyon yes is a hard spot the skid allows me to do what you tell me in my mind didn't look right the motor and the gearbox side ways.i want a fusion does not fit I have like 540 motor space .
I guess in that they're both flat plate chassis? This one doesn't look any more like the Scattergun than it does the GroundFox, ATL, or any of the others I've looked up. Which is great, really.
@@CrawlerCanyon i guess i was way off ,my bad ,what matters is that it looks like a good choice judging by the performance and priced very good for the gain you get 👍
@@jimbocreationsbu8203 as I said in another comment, I do try to avoid buying obvious clones of boutique products- as I am myself a maker of boutique products. It didn’t even occur to me when I ordered it, so I’m happy it doesn’t look like anyone else’s chassis.
Umm... no it's not? Every raked LCG out there is front-down by a few degrees. All of them. If you can find an LCG with the skid raked to the back, let me know. As far as I know it doesn't exist.
It’s a crawler why would you get one of the lightest chassis that’s such a disadvantage. It’s not for aero dynamics or speed so why, just get stainless steel
Sprung weight is bad, and the ability to move that weight is good. Removing sprung weight effectively increases unsprung weight (percentage wise,) which is even better. Never, EVER increase weight borne by the shocks if you can avoid it. Having the lightest possible rig allows you to put the weight where you want it, not where dictated by the parts. Do I think it's necessary that it's made of CF? Not really. But I'm not gonna complain about it.
I had never really considered getting an LCG chassis until now. Now I'm thinking about it. My wallet probably needs me to stop watching your videos.
YFGRC is legit I love their Currie style axles. Glad someone finally took the risk on one of these chassis
I’ve been on the fence about trying a cheaper flat rail on my Ecto, but after seeing Yella on the rocks, I’m sold! Excellent job man!
rail spacers use shock bolts to them, will help with bolt stresses on the holes and help transfer load.
That's how I have the GroundFox set up, but on this rig it interferes with the battery.
Yella is going to be a threat next 6 line.
The front body mounts could be straight aluminum notched in the bottom to straddle the CF chassis and a screw straight through to basically clamp them down on the chassis rails.
I just wanna sit down and have a talk with whoever decided to make frame rail spacing and body post spacing EXACTLY THE SAME
I know that it's a problem that hits me more than others, as I'm routinely trying to fit a pre-cut/drilled body to something new.
I’ve just ordered one of these chassis from Amazon UK it’s branded AMC and I’ve ordered rails only for my element RC, I also have a Gspeed for element builders kit 2 and a mod Ecto. Good video, love the rig 😊
That was a great video, I'm always torn about lowering my cg on my Capra, I find in a garden environment, we tend to have more sharp edges and flats than natural nature, but it's nice to know I can adjust my shock mounts and lower by 3 eights anytime I need. Oh love duratrax tyres, they work great on my 4ws capra. Lovin your content, that's one awesome home set up you've built. Brilliant work. Thanks for sharing. John
I know what you means about "jaggies," as much of my course was built with portals in mind, so there are some sections that are much tougher on straight-axle rigs.
That said, LCG with portals under it is great, because you get to keep the ground clearance but lower the CG. Welp, I guess I need another set of portal axles! And another chassis!
Looks really good, look forward to seeing more of this rig. I'm running the injora lcg on capra axles, well happy with it . Keep up the good work.
Good to know! I was wondering how it would work. I have a set of capra axles laying around and I was thinking about getting this kit to throw something together cheap.
@@thomasvanderpool4735 had to make my own upper front links as the stock ones were a little to long
Thank you I’ve been looking at LCG carbon frame rails & also the Rock Pirate’s frame rails. I’m not sure if I’ll get a set for my TRX Sport truck or Sendero which has the Element chassis. Nice to see the rails installed then right onto the rocks.
This was a fun one to watch!
The forward weight bias of the chassis (sprung weight )makes a big difference in front suspension not unloading
The other flat rails have always been out of reach, but this one I can swing. Thanks for the review 👍
Great video! What’s the name of the washers? Would like to check them out.
They're called countersunk washers or finishing washers. The price linked is fairly typical, but if you did around you can sometimes find a crazy low price on some odd color. www.amazon.com/dp/B09MKGTR57
You can also find counterbore washers, which are the same sort of thing but for cap heads. www.amazon.com/Counterbore-Anodized-Aluminum-Mechanical-Accessories/dp/B09MKL1XZL
I have this chassis they make lcg aluminum body mounts that mount in the upper shock mounts that will work with your existing holes
They'll undoubtedly make mounting easier, but I doubt they'll work with existing holes. Because in the divine wisdom of Mfrs. like Axial, Vanquish, Element (and others) the post holes are the exact same width as the chassis rails. Any bolt-on body mount is going to put the posts inside or outside of the rails. Not a problem if the body isn't already drilled.
I run the Gozer body on my ecto as well. It's a little chubby but looks cool. Great video.
Negative G makes plug and play lcg kits for trx4, scxiii, phoenix, and capra...all you need is a donor vehicle and electrics. They are amazing, idkw they dont get noticed..
My guess would be $$$. The Negative G offerings are one of, if not the most, expensive LCG options out there. A good bit more expensive than a Sherpa, which is (at least to me) properly expensive. I remember ogling the TC-V1, but... I just couldn't.
Wait till you try a forward skid flat rail LCG chassis!! I think Fimonda RC Official (on Ali Express) has a complete "pick only the components you want" setup for theirs. I'd love to see your thoughts on that one!
i have the deadloc lcg chassis for my element enduro so far its a great chassis for 60$ but this one has peaked my interest with more shock positions and also with the skid location
With regards to the Deadloc, it's odd (at least to me) to see a flat-plate LCG chassis without an angled skid.
typically I agree that these are not plug and play. however, the TGH Titan chassis for element is exactly plug and play lol
Well I mean... sometimes you get what you pay for. But despite the number of rigs in my ever growing fleet, I'm not the $175 LCG guy. This one is way more in my wheelhouse.
@@CrawlerCanyon You and me both. I'm quite fond of Amazon myself 😂
Good intel. Thanks. Maybe confused, the link take me to parts that don't show the rails for 45.00 are the rails sold ad a separate option? Maybe I missed something in the video.
They're apparently all sold out-- from that seller. Such is my power, I guess.🤣 There's another seller (which is also just a pile of consonants) selling the exact same chassis: www.amazon.com/RXZIXYL-Carbon-Chassis-Crawler-Straight/dp/B0BGQK6K65. Same price as well.
@@CrawlerCanyon Thanks much!
Just started seeing your videos and I am loving them! You knowledge has definitely help me. Rock on brother! 🤘🏼
Really appreciate your video and the info included. I currently have a rtr gatekeeper (my first and only crawler, for now) and I'm ready to do a lcg build.
A few questions for you. Will you share links to the Amazon servo and wheels you're running on Yella? Where can I find portals that won't hurt my wallet? Lastly, I'm thinking of getting the element builders kit 2 instead of buying all the major components (shocks, Trans, links, etc) separately. Your thoughts will be greatly appreciated! After watching your video I'm ordering this chassis now. Thanks again for your video and any knowledge you're willing to share!
Yella is running an AGFRC SA75 for servo: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09133W2B2
and deep clones of SSD steelies: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B51PPJ8K
The cheapest way to get portals, other than buying chinesium from Amazon (which will have gears of questionable quality) is to get some take-offs from a parts house like Jenny's RC. I've gotten TRX-4 axles from them several times.
When it comes to getting multiple components, it's always cheaper to buy a kit or builder's kit compared to buying piece by piece. A pair of axles alone is $100-125 (not including Vanquish) while a whole kit will go around $250-300. The Builder's Kit 2 is a great deal.
@@CrawlerCanyon thank you! Appreciate you sharing knowledge and the quick response!
That’s funny.i just saw this on Amazon .i have been looking to swap my gate keeper on to a chassis like this.looks like yella performs great now.any issues with the front shaft being shortened at all?
With all of the LCGs I've done myself, the front driveshaft invariably has to be shortened. My advice is: when building, put the driveshafts on last, and hold them up in place to see how much need be adjusted. I've had to do significant mods to some, while others-- like in this rig-- I took ~7mm off of the slider section and was done. As long as link placement doesn't interfere with the driveshafts, it shouldn't ever pose an issue. Lastly, the shorter front shaft means the gearbox has effectively moved closer to the front axle, so if nothing else, the weight bias moves slightly forward and down.
@@CrawlerCanyon .thank you sir.keep up the awesome builds/videos 👍
For thise watching in the future, the rails are available for $35!
The rails are all you need, really. As I did here, you can just bolt a whole Element in, then figure out the body mounts. I ended up using all of the remaining parts that came in the "kit" on other builds.
Amazon link is still good, theres an option for just the rails for $37! I'd be tempted to scan these on a office scanner (ie for paper) digitize them and start making adjustments. Could be fun.
I keep eyeballing getting another one. Though when I sit and try to think about what rig to use it on... I can't think of anything. So I'm saving myself from myself.
Fantastic.I got inspired and got a set of those rails. NOW... I hope I can pick your brain with a few questions. I got the same trans and I'll use AR44's. What do you think about portals with the rig and maybe 80 or 90mm shocks? Second I truly like to have a 4WS set up and set it with servos over axles. Since I'm quite new to this I keep on looking for 2 front Axles on eBay and amazon but I'm not sure I can find what I need. Would you be so kind as to put a link for the correct axles for 4WS?
Thanks a million.
I think an LCG is a great choice for a rig with portals, because you can bring that CG down a bit-- ground clearance and lower CG is what we all want.
As to axles, you can SOA most any axle, it's just that some are easier than others. Element axles or AR44s are nice because there's a variety of mounts out there, and they're all pretty inexpensive. I give the edge to Element for smoothness, but a performance advantage to the AR44 for being high-pinion-- and having a variety of under/overdrive gears available. So I would lean toward AR44s. Though if you are considering portals, don't discount TRX-4 axles. The only downside there being that the availability of SOA mounts that AREN'T 3D printed is pretty slim. The axles, gears, and portal boxes are tough as nails, though.
The problem with cheap metal housing axles (like what are all over Amazon and eBay) is that you never know the quality of the housings or the gears-- you can be sure that the gears will be sintered and the housings cast, but there is a wide range of quality with regards to those parts. You might save some money and get lucky, you might end up with "you get what you pay for." So as to a link? I wish I could help. Sourcing axles is the toughest part of any of my builds-- getting TRX-4 take-offs from Jenny's is the closest I get to being able to just buy axles when I need them, and even at that a pair of fronts is about $140.
Keep checking forums/classifieds, keep checking eBay, or just bite the bullet for Axial axle kits (AX31438) which will give you quality parts (and you'll have a bunch of stuff left over) but still run you about $160. Everything in crawling is reasonably economical... until you get to bodies... and axles.
@@CrawlerCanyon thanks a million for your kind response. Perhaps once it’s done sometime in the futureI cam stop by your place and I can learn a thing or two or a lot 😁. I don’t think we are too far from each other. I’m in Palmdale CA.
Cheers and again thank you very much
Thank you for doing this video! Lots of great information in there. In a week I'm ordering my parts!!! EDIT: its not a clone of G-Speed or TGH either.
I've been scouring the Google to try to find something at least close, and aside from the common factor of them all being LCGs, nothing out there looks really similar. Some of the NSWD offerings are WILD though. This makes me feel better, as I make some small effort not to buy obvious clones of boutique stuff. I rationalize SSD-clone wheels, because I recognize that they were probably stamped in the same building.
@@CrawlerCanyon Well as of right now it doesn't matter. It seems all the loons bought every one of them. Completely out of stock and will no longer return. Foiled once more I guess.
Behold, my power! MWAHAHA! But seriously though, if you can't have one random assortment of consonants, there's always another. The RXZIYL appears to be the identical item: www.amazon.com/RXZIXYL-Carbon-Chassis-Crawler-Straight/dp/B0BGQK6K65
And potential bonus, available as rails only for 37 bucks: www.amazon.com/RXZIXYL-Carbon-Chassis-Crawler-Straight/dp/B0BBXQ9RCG
@@CrawlerCanyon You have too much power sir! I'm ordering asap before all the dwellers snag them up.
@@CrawlerCanyon I want you to build me a rig
Rock Pirates body pin mounts would work good probably.
What wheels are those. I heard you say ssd wides in the video. But I've searched and searched the net and can't find those. I like deep dish wheels. Appreciate the video. Wanting to lcg my trx4
They were a lot tougher to find back then, but they're all over Amazon now. Deep steelies, pretty cheap, come in at least 6 colors: amzn.to/3WAvO2o
Ok thank you. I had just found those earlier. Would like to find some that's wide. Even wider then the rc4wd deep dish. I know boom racing has some extra wide wheels. I have a few sets of their pro builds. But they don't have a wagon wheel style
@@badkatzfishin4009 I've never seen steelies on "big" rings. I have a set of clone 105s with 35mm rings, and they make the tire about 2mm wider than being mounted on 24mm rings.
Can you confidently recommend a carbon fibre chassis kit for a trx4 sport, its fine if you are not sure.
How close to you want to stay to the Sport? Like, are you doing this for a performance bump, or are you looking to convert? For just a performance bump that won't change the geometry or require a bunch of new stuff, the Morlordy rails off of Amazon are great-- I just did a review a few days ago. For a full-blown conversion, I haven't gotten one (yet) but the Dr. Climbenstein from UGRC looks bonkers, and is where I would go if I were going for a full LCG conversion on TRX-4 portals.
@@CrawlerCanyon Thankyou, ill check out your video, was mainly trying to cut out some weight and maybe a little performance bump, would like to keep my 1979 Bronco hard body coz it cost me a fortune 😆 but I like experimenting and re building so I'll check the bonkers one 😉
@@neildaniels5443 The Morlordy be a direct bolt-on, as it uses stock towers, braces, etc. Drops right around 7oz of sprung weight-- to the point that I had to drop spring rate all around.
Do you have videos on making your own lcg chassis?
I sure do.
Episode 1 in this playlist has my fabrication of the GroundFaux: ruclips.net/p/PLZRl9WrWIiCdJLs4mRLrYaL8temC5W6PV
Parts 1&2 cover the initial "LCG" build, while Part 6 has revision 2: ruclips.net/p/PLZRl9WrWIiCeFjRzhelVBy_s3m80kj5pQ
I the stretched Capra chassis is built in Part 2: ruclips.net/p/PLZRl9WrWIiCfm0ppHI9_BjTZ_J6gwxcPU
Zoidberg is now on a second revision LCG as well, I just can't remember what I titled that one. 🤷♂️
I intend to build my first LCG from mostly Amazon. I do want to keep it a sub 6 lbs. what axles can you recommend? What are the kids doing these days?
Late to the party. Just transplanted this chassis into a gspeed. This chassis works way better bought 4 more gonna transplant to all my current gspeeds
Your neighbors tiger green with big turbos? I raced it in New Mexico 10 years ago.
I think there are three running? It's one of those big covered carriers with the lift inside, so there's at least two in there. It's been so long since I've seen them and not just heard them, I can't remember what colors they are.
Could it be OK for the Enduro Sendero (12.3 in/313 mm)?
Absolutely. This is on a 12.8" wheelbase, but there are plenty of shock mounting holes, so getting the shock angle you want shouldn't be a problem.
Hey man! I really appreciate your videos, I've learned a lot from them! I was actually considering buying this chassis but weren't sure if it'd fit my Enduro kit but after watching this i ordered one. Also love that front bumper, do you remember where you got it from or the brand? Thanks!
I think that's the... second bumper I welded? Maybe the third. But that one is homebrew.
@@CrawlerCanyon No wonder I couldn't find one anywhere lol
Do you not have a Facebook page? I tried to find it to give you a like/follow on there but didn't see one for the crawler canyon
I looked through Facebook, and there's a "The Crawler Canyon," a group in the Vegas area, and "Crawler Canyon RC Park" which is in the Chicago area.
This explains why I often get tagged on IG and see posts from stuff/people I don't know. I guess the place in Chicago doesn't have an IG.
I know that if I set up a page or group on FB, I would forget to update it immediately, so I made one anyway. Then I tried to search for it and can't even find my own page. FB does not promote unless they see it as something worthy of monetization.
How did you attach the battery tray to the servo
I just use servo tape. Well, I go back and forth between clear "Gorilla Mounting Tape," Yeah Racing clear servo tape, and some stuff I found at the Daiso for 75¢. Best I can tell, they're all the same stuff.
Thanks
Kind sir, you in my eyes are man to ask this question. Will the Injora lcg chassis fit the hightrail 336 mm wheelbase? Says all trx4 models, yet I cannot find a carbon fiber chassis. I assume Id be swapping the suspension parts over. Have you heard of anyone doing this?
I think it would fit fine. In virtually every case, wheelbase is altered by changing the rear links only-- I can't think of a rig that has links changed at both ends. So worst case, your rear shocks are laid down a little more, and the rear axle is closer to the bumper mount. But I'm running ~330mm on rigs "built" for 313mm and there's never really an issue.
Hay great video ... I bought a second 3 gear trans with dig from Amazon ...I have issue set screw on front locking disk of dig DO YOU KNOW THE SIZE OF THE ALLEN HEAD SET SCREW? Not the same size as a Vanquish Hurtz Dig units ..
Super tiny-- IIRC, it's 0.7mm.
Yah I ordered a new set of hex drivers. Is there a brand you like best? Got set from Amazon try if I think their crap" RETURN TOO SENDED ADDRSS UNKOWN">>lol@@CrawlerCanyon
@@tomandrews5392 For my everyday, "use 'em all the time" drivers, I go for MIP. I have the bit inserts as well as the handled drivers. I put off buying them for a VERY long time, and regret that. They're just so good, and i essentially consider them an investment. For (most) everything else, like nutdrivers, or hexes I might use once in a blue moon, I tend to stick to Wiha. Really inexpensive, and they're honestly pretty good.
In Amazon tool terms (that is, the imported stuff sold from sellers whose names are just a pile of loosely related letters,) the only RC-specific tool I'm 100% pleased with are my shock pliers. They're fantastic. But the bit inserts and hex drivers are pretty terrible.
How did you attached the battery to the servo? Nice build man!
I just use clear servo tape between the bracket and the servo. On some of my battery-on-servo rigs, I just have the battery velcro-strapped to the servo with no tray.
The tray is preferable.
Did you 4 link it and get rid of the panhard?
"throttle house is cool". though i prefer "regular car reviews" much more. it is quite funny.
The RCR for the 1997 Geo Prizm might be one of the funniest things of all time. I love it.
Agreed… it’s my go to car channel! On a bizarre side note. You did say everything is content. In one of your upcoming videos. If possible can you do a quick review of your Apple ultra watch - positives and negatives. I don’t trust the reviews out there. It would be most appreciated.
Which gearbox are you using in this rig and would you reccomend it?
This is the Que-T dig gearbox from Amazon, I'm running six of them. amzn.to/434ML5X
Love the work.
I have a question maybe you can help me with, I have the same lcg kit mine came with the skid being 78mm and the delete, spacers are 70mm would this be correct because the chassis is wider in the middle and smaller on each end doesn't seem right but I've never put one of these together. Thanks
Yes, generally chassis' will have a "pinch" at each end. Thin CF plate makes that bend really easily.
The TRX-4 has such a difference between middle and ends that the CF chassis is made of separate front, middle, and end pieces.
@@CrawlerCanyon thank you so much
can you share what gearbox you use? where to buy and share the link.
Right here on good old Amazon: amzn.to/40laHjU
I'm currently running five of them in the fleet. Be aware: when you get one, completely take it apart, oil all the bearings, grease all the gears, and replace the included fasteners with better ones. Some work involved when a dig gearbox is THAT cheap. The JX4409 is a great servo for the dig: amzn.to/3Jqtwwi
@@CrawlerCanyon THANK YOU
Go look at the brazin scale ATL chassis.. they look damn near exact to me
I think if you put any/all of the LCG offerings out there (maybe excluding the Sherpa) they all look pretty similar. But I haven't located one that looks REALLY close. The ATL (versions 1 or 2) doesn't look any closer than the Scattergun or any others. I think this is because when overseas companies knock something off, they look at the biggest market share they can, and LCG chassis for rock crawlers is a niche inside a niche-- I can't imagine any one mfr. has sold more than a few thousand at the absolute most. Triple digits is more likely.
I'm also curious as to why the boutique builders are almost always out of stock. Well, not really. It's outsourcing. Plate + machine = chassis, unless you have to farm out the work.
@@CrawlerCanyon that one looks a lil different than the one I have previously bought.. the one I have laid next to my gspeed v3 nearly lays identical only difference is v3 has more rise at the ends of the chassis and the shock hoops are a lil shorter.. imo definitely not 100s of dollars worth if difference ya know,?
Link is to a gear box..
Canyon wiht the 2low gearbox the links bump in the motor any ideias?
If your motor isn't "Fusion long" you can clock the gearbox sideways a bit to get it out of the way of the links (usually) but will be limited by driveshaft angle (usually) depending on your axles. Unbolt two of the screws from the center skid and see how much you can rotate the gearbox-- sometimes it doesn't take much. The more-fabrication option is a spacer/plate/shim to angle the gearbox on the axis you need it angled on. I have a 2Low in one of my custom chassis, which was NOT designed to fit that gearbox, so I had to make an adpater plate that both angles the box left to right and tips the gearbox front to rear. It's an annoying gearbox to mount in 80% of chassis.
@@CrawlerCanyon yes is a hard spot the skid allows me to do what you tell me in my mind didn't look right the motor and the gearbox side ways.i want a fusion does not fit I have like 540 motor space .
@@CrawlerCanyon the chassis for best working position for the 2low is?can you tell me ¿love your work and pacien for noob like me
720$ shipped for the VRD Carbon.. lol
Crazy
Wow bro you can big a rig
🥰🤩💥💯👍👏
nice car👍
Awsome
What body is that
JConcepts Gozer
this looks like a NWSD rc Scattergun chassis clone
I guess in that they're both flat plate chassis? This one doesn't look any more like the Scattergun than it does the GroundFox, ATL, or any of the others I've looked up. Which is great, really.
@@CrawlerCanyon i guess i was way off ,my bad ,what matters is that it looks like a good choice judging by the performance and priced very good for the gain you get 👍
@@jimbocreationsbu8203 as I said in another comment, I do try to avoid buying obvious clones of boutique products- as I am myself a maker of boutique products. It didn’t even occur to me when I ordered it, so I’m happy it doesn’t look like anyone else’s chassis.
@@CrawlerCanyon after refreshing my view ,it is a bit of a mishmash and not like any 1 chassis ,which is great 👍
It‘s a clone of bd Crawler Chassis
Lol 😆😂😆
The skid is angled the wrong way, deal breaker...
Umm... no it's not? Every raked LCG out there is front-down by a few degrees. All of them. If you can find an LCG with the skid raked to the back, let me know. As far as I know it doesn't exist.
Stop referencing this as a human!!! Wtf is he
It’s a crawler why would you get one of the lightest chassis that’s such a disadvantage. It’s not for aero dynamics or speed so why, just get stainless steel
Sprung weight is bad, and the ability to move that weight is good. Removing sprung weight effectively increases unsprung weight (percentage wise,) which is even better.
Never, EVER increase weight borne by the shocks if you can avoid it. Having the lightest possible rig allows you to put the weight where you want it, not where dictated by the parts. Do I think it's necessary that it's made of CF? Not really. But I'm not gonna complain about it.
🪨🗻🪨🪨crawler canyon rocks!🗻🪨🗻🪨🪨