Jeep jk 3.6L Headgasket replacement. What not to do. Plus tips and tricks.
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- • Part 5/10: 3.6 Pentast...
In case you only have to do left, drivers side. Does not work for right/passenger side!!!!!!!!
so quick recap. the radiator cracked. wife was driving she called me said the temperature went high then all the way low. i told her to stop driving it but she cant listen. had a few codes and was running rough when she got home had a throttle code temp code, and oil pressure code. it seemed electric and i was going to be away for awhile so i sent it to jeep. they replaced the radiator and it ran worse. they diagnosed it as head gaskets and estimated $3,800. that was seaview jeep in ocean nj in case anyone wants to know. anyway i did the job for probably $500-$600 including new antifreeze, oil, filters, broken bolts and special tools. in the video i show exactly which tools you have to have.
anyway i used Haynes online manual and other youtube videos for all of the actual tech, torques etc. but they dont tell you things like it makes it alot easier to remove the drivers side inner fender, and only 5 front oil pan bolts have to come out.
Also the exhaust smoke cleared up by 5 minutes of running and was probably residuals of the rust buster I used on the exhaust bolts.
Oh and it was out of warranty by 3 months
I just did a 3.6 engine replacement on a Chrysler 200. Honestly not terrible, but a very time consuming job. I never bothered to label my harnesses since each connector is unique and the harness once placed back in the engine bay, everything is within close proximity of each other to connect back in. One thing I will say, screw those 'Christmas tree' clips that hold every wire in. That consumed a bunch of my time getting all those out.
Word to the wise. Change the oil cooler while you are there and replace it with a metal one.
I had a chipped intake valve on the passenger's side. I was able to get that singular torxs head bolt off by taking the very tip of a torxs bit and welding it into a tiny box wrench. Then ground the tool thin enough to loosen the bolt, then needle nose vice grips to back it out. Make sure to stuff rags down the timing chain openings to prevent anything from falling down. I placed a magnet on the head of the bolt and used a stubby hacksaw blade to cut the head off then finish extracting the body of the bolt. If anyone tries this, be super diligent to prevent any fillings from getting down the timing chain openings. Also keep any magnets away from the cam phasers. My favourite part for reassembly was using a slightly shorter hex head bolt for the chain guide bolt that was cut. Now a standard open ended wrench can be used. It took about an hour, but I was able to avoid the removal of the front timing cover.
PS Thank you for posting this, I couldn't find any videos on the right hand side head when I went to do mine. It was a 2013 JKU 3,6L.
Jeff Lemke I thought of that but decided against it since now there is a lot less thread engaging that chain guide.
The left bank bracket, holding the plenum, those 13mm bracket bolts can be accessed through the driver wheel well. Made mine easy once I saw that while removing exhaust.
Nice work, came across this 2013 Jeep Wrangler Sahara unlimited *Needs head gasket replacement* (107k miles)
You convinced me to take it the Jeep dealership
The more of these I watch the more I get confidence to be able to do it. The more I stand in front of my Jeep staring at the engine the more confidence I loose.
Dealers have the worst mechanics find a local mechanic shop with good reviews and a clean but busy shop.
@@thomaskeeler1086that's how it always works out.😂😂
Good job... over the years I am starting to get a theory to just do a new rebuilt long-block if the motor is over 100k and there's thousands of dollars of work to do.
Im doing mine diy and ill be in under 500 all oem parts but otherwise ya if i didn't know how to work on cars id buy Toyota lil
Im in process of removing my 2015's heads.. Ive been chasing codes, this will be the third time Ive tore down the engine without removing the heads... here is a tip, start out with the phaser blocks (at TDC) and you can break free the harmonic balancer and the phaser oil bolts without special tools, if you get to this point you might as well do the timing chains - buy a yellow paint pen for marking your parts, I painted all the new parts as well because it makes reassembly easier. Just go ahead and remove the timing cover as well. PCV valve is a bitch, once you get it off do yourself a favor and get the doorman replacement, it comes with hex screws and makes getting the screws back in WAY easier. Not looking forward to tackling the exhaust.. great video, thanks!
I have to change the heads on mine, but the engines out of the vehicle so much easier
There is a way around the crankshaft removal tool. Before removing the chain cover use the serpentine belt as kinda like a strap wrench lettin the top of the belt go around the timing cover take the rest of the belt to kind of overlap on the crank pulley.use a 24" breaker bar to get it loose.IT WORKS.
As a professional I can’t recommend anyone tackle this job as there first job. One mistake and you will be out 10,000 for a new engine. Just a thought.
Is it an interference engine?
No
For less than 10k I can get a fresh built 5.7 hemi installed.
It's 5 to 6k for a long block 5.7 from mopar
Only 4,000 for a crate motor from Mopar with warranty ,labor cost for replacing head gaskets on 3.6 is over , if you're on a budget get one out of the salvage yard for 1,850 I would not have invested the time and money into a repair of a overheated engine, especially the 3.6..I have been a mechanic for 15 years but that's just my thoughts.
Nice job. I've been thinking about replacing the heads on my Jeep after my wife sunk it in a huge mud hole.
This looks easier than I was expecting.
I have replaced heads on other vehicles and I know my 4.0 like the back of my hand. But the furthest i've jumped in on my JKU is the oil pump and oil sending sensor.
Might be knocking heads out soon.
This is great advice to never get married. Thanks.
You could of disconnected the exhausr at the cat and then take the bead out with manifolds and take the bolts out on a bench so they dont brake
I am looking at a headgasket job. This convinced me to get a 300$ junkyard motor instead.
Yeah man it’s no small feat. Check out the gladiator and JL pages there are guys selling hemi conversion brand new 3.6 w trans for 2-6k
Im happy I have avoided any chrysler product like the plague.
Thats your fault, I've owned many Chryslers not a days problem, every maker has thier issues
Why? These small fixes are easy to do and these engines do last a very long time. I had 2 that had well over 250k and all I did was change a cam on both. The crosss hatch pattern was still on the cylinder walls of both. Bet they last another 200k easy.
6:57 there was nothing wrong with that head gasket. It's normal for the ridge there to be missing. Usually it stays behind on the block when you pull the gasket. The gasket is the MLS style, which stands for "multi layered steel", that means it's several sheets of steel gasket sandwiched together.
Overall, nothing looked out of the ordinary on that cylinder head. If it was passing coolant, the combustion chamber and piston would be squeaky clean. It's called steam cleaning. The water evaporates, and steams the cylinder clean. All three of those combustion chambers look identical, black and carbon. The way they should be.
That’s the skewed view of social media. Engine didn’t run, pushed up driveway. only change was head gaskets. Engine has run for years since. The camera doesn’t always pick up everything
@@steamman9193glad it worked out for you I have a 2014. Not my daily so it is in good condition still.
But if this happens to me I would rather rebuild a 5.7 same gas mileage anyway easier engine with more aftermarket support.
Taking on this job next month. I had a laugh when the timing chain tensioner shot out on you. Haha.
About to do this myself on a 2013. Honestly dreading it but the more videos I watch the more confident I become.
Holy hell, challenger owners have to drop the lower oil pan to get to the 4 bolts on the bottom of the timing cover. We have different lower ends than the jeeps. What a hell of a mess just to change the heads.
I just had a quote for 6500 to do a head gasket. I'll definitely be doing it myself.
You DO NOT have to take the timing cover off. I just made a tool with a short cut off torx and it worked beautifully
On a 2017 grand cherokee 3.6 drivers cyl head i won't have to remove timing cover? That would be great. Have coolant in combustion chamber on boroscope. Any tips?😊
Great video ! I have a Dodge Ram , 316000 kms , she is overheating coming out of the overflow container , think it’s a head gasket , gonna get an engine job done at a shop not by me though .
Chances are the head is warped due to overheating being all aluminum head and block. Gasket may not solve problem for long run new head is the best way . But very expensive
Thanks ! Going to attempt this soon, luckily only my left side needs to be done. 12’ 3.6 with 171k in it. I replaced the oil filter housing a few weeks ago so kids familiar with the first steps already, but this really helped.
J Mali I hope so! That’s why I made the video I couldn’t find anything and I knew other people would be looking.
I will be doing this job in a week or so..2013 dodge challenger..3.6l.
I have seen people attempting these so called short cuts....
It's a puzzle that can only be taken apart and put back together one way..the right way....
That is why I myself will be removing the engine from the car..
As to not make these kind of mistakes...and do the job Right the first time.i hope anyhow.....I have been working on cars since I was 12 year's old..I'm now 56.... I have learned that a few extra steps in any process , are most likely necessary for a reason...
It's easy to get in a hurry and think you have beat the machine...with a short cut in the process... in the end you grasshopper will learn ,,your only cheating your self in the end..
Follow the process take every step on that journey...you will actually get to your destination with much better results.....at least that's wtf I'm shooting for when I start this cluster F of a job ..one I really don't want to do at all....but I'm gunna give it a shot and hope for the best....do both sides.. should have heads checked and resurfacing at least,, check them with straight edge and fealer gauges..and by all means I will also use copper spray on my head gaskets....no guts no glory....
Fight on men,.... keep um running ..
Never give up and never surrender...
She is definitely a trekke at a star wars convention, no offense.
My gf ran her car out of oil. I got in her car to go to the store oil gauge was at 0 she said it's been like that for weeks I don't know how that can be. I put 5 quarts of high mileage full synthetic and one quart of Lucas oil stabilizer and the oil guagr came back to life and has far has I can tell it's not completely ruined. Still makes compression some how. 05 Nissan Altima. 209,128 miles
Did you have any resistance installing the left-drivers side cams?
hi, i have a question what is the strength of tightening the head fixing bolts?
What should i pay for labor for this i my jeep did more over heat but definitely made antifreeze sludge so i was guessing its the gasket
If someone quotes $1500 in labor that’s a good deal it’s just an incredibly time consuming project
The harmonic balancer has a key. After taking the blot out It should just slide off with a pry bar.
Slingapens26 sliding off wasn’t the problem getting the keeper bolt off was. It was tight was afraid I was going to break or bend something expensive without the pully removal tool. I’ve broken a lot of stuff in my day. I know when too much force is applied. I was close without that tool.
Thanks bro good vid
Anthony Russo hopefully it helped I wish someone else had one when I did it.
Can you tell me the OD of the 4 round pins and the depth of them off the plate. As well as what the distance is between them is. Like center to center top and bottom and maybe the distance center to center across. I’ll make up my own plate cuz I ain’t got one. Thanks
It’s going to be awhile before I’m near that tool
I consider myself mechanically inclined... but F this!!!
Amen. Fuck FCA. SHIT DESIGN
Did you check the compression of each cylinder before tearing into. My buddys jeep lost all of his coolant, luckily he saw that and shut it down before it overheated. We are leaning towards the head gasket but would love to know what made you go there instead of the heater core or lower intake or something else?
footballer52 it wouldn’t start. Was still losing water. I knew. Call it instinct or experience but a compression check wouldn’t hurt. If you fill it back up you should find the water somewhere
Where in NJ? I'll be over Black Friday so you can do my left side head replacement!
Not sure if your still active on here but how did you get the passenger side chains off with the timing cover still on it? I’ve got a way to get the bolt out with out pulling the cover but can’t find out how to get slack I’m the chain on that side
Damm this was awhile ago. I did buy the timing chain tool don’t remember if I needed it though. Pretty sure you don’t have to have it if you pull the cover.
Sold this jeep a few years back debated selling the tools. Still have them as I have another 3.6 jeep now hopefully ward off the job
Did u reconditioned the cylinder heads machine it or fitted only gaskets
I didn’t have to. I knew it didn’t overheat very long and I checked everything with a straight edge. This was also a low mileage failure from a radiator crack if it had more miles on it a head swap would make more sense. As far as I know this engine is still running 6? Years later it’s the now x wife’s
I assume you replaced the chains, tensioners, guides, ect. While you already in there that deep right?
I didn’t because this was a low mileage failure from an overheat due to a cracked radiator. If I had over 80k miles I probably would have done them. As far as I know this engine is still running- now x wife’s car
would have liked to see head torque sequence , how was that to do?
I got an online Hayes manual for free for 30 days when I did this. Well worth it, even buying. Torque sequence was easy just make sure the holes are clean and you use a light lube
I have a crank balancer puller, it’s a claw type. What is the tool that you used? Do you have a link?
Jeff Ankney at 12:15 you can see the tool, it’s upside down but you can see the tabs
Did you find it necessary to change chains & tensioners due to damage from overheating?
No
@@steamman9193 thank you for the reply. Took ours to a shop for tests and after determining head gaskets are failing in the estimate they are replacing tensioners and timing chains. Feels unnecessary.
There’s tabs on the head gasket for that reason
Labeling things seem like a good idea so I tried it once and realized something in doing so.
Purposely I believe all connectors only fit in the location they came from making it almost impossible to connect any wrong. The harnesses only send connectors so far finding the location easy to find, even if I look at the connector and don't remember where it came off, which is rare anyway.
The bolts are the most important to organize, putting them with the part in hand, played out in the order removed to know what goes back on first.
Which can become important.
Oh, and by the way a small prybar in the hole facing it, to the left on the bottom removing the nut easily. A small nick in the cover as a result.
Also just a little pro tip, that electrical spray is necessary not an option when plugin in old electrical connections, it basically lubes up the old rubber o rings in most of them and allows them to seat properly, u get that click you should always feel when connecting them. Also works amazing for re connecting the radiator hoses or any hoses, because it evaporates when it dries almost immediately.
Lol I said fuck it and pulled the whole engine
Hi, with the engine overheating, you only had to replace the head gaskets ??? Did you have the heads rebuilt? [ This project is a little different, it does not run on steam LOL THANKS FRIEND
Ronald Cach no head work other than the gaskets. I did check for cracks and straitness. It’s been running for a few months now with no further issues
Are head gaskets a common problem with these V6 engines??
No, but the radiators were then you have a blown head gasket like my x wife who wouldn’t listen to her husband when he said stop driving it
Sadly, I like the motor. As well as the 4.7 v8. So.... Gaskets not that hard. The motor was a good idea. But, they certainly have this problem I dunno what to say. My suzukis, have timing chain probs. I'd rather do the chains.......
I m on my 2nd 3.6 in a 2020 gladiator now. It’s a fantastic engine when paired with the 8 speed transmission. I get 20mpg on 33” BFG KO2S
Did you get a lot of the torque specs from a Haynes manual?
exactly. i got a free online manual
@@steamman9193 quick question. Does the manual say to put anything on the head bolts. My manual is on its way. Should be here tomorrow
How bad was getting that cylinder head off without taking the timing cover off? Isn’t the timing chain tensioner Bolted to the head ?
George Marris it’s do able but only for the drivers side. It may save 30 to 1hr as opposed to removing the timing cover. This guy has a good video but it’s from a caravan ruclips.net/video/HpmtrAQ0nwQ/видео.html
Did you have to send the heads. To a shop?
No I didn’t I checked them myself with a straight edge and everything looked ok. I don’t own this truck anymore but it ran fine for years afterwards
Hey can you give me some dimensions on that crank tool please? how far apart are the fingers from each other. I want to make my own since I work in the metal industry. im cheap i know Thanks for the info. Im about to do the same thing to my crapola challenger.
Triple Nickle I can’t find it. All you need is something to keep it from turning while you take of the nut. I didn’t have anything to make one out of so I just spent the money. Plus I was exhausted from all of the actual work
I pulled some dimensions off mine tonight. I have something in mind that will work. Did you check out your heads after you pulled them off? I'm sending mi e out to have a leak down test performed on them and check for warp.
It’s the now x wife’s car so wasn’t going to spend more than I had to. I took a straight edge and checked as many way as I could. I felt good about finding bad gaskets. If you don’t find bad gaskets than you may want to check your heads or get new ones $$$$$
@@Chippers-r5i sorry to hear that. But thanks for getting back to me. If your in the Houston area feel free to come by and give me a hand. BTW my car is boosted and I think that aided in the blown head gasket/s Im not sure.
I’m actually in Houston pretty often but nothing scheduled right now. And yeah a turbo can do that you are probably putting out a lot of power per Cubic inch it’s got to go somewhere. After this I ordered an cordless ratchet. Best tool money I ever spent. Milwaukee is the only one I know available on the shell but you can order them online pretty cheap.
I don't even own a car.. why am I here?
Do you have the head bolts removal sequence?
I downloaded the Hays manual. Your going to need a few things that it has
You got a link I can use?
I only found a printed version and I don’t want to wait if possible
Union hours 👍🏻👍🏻
Did the coolant go into the oil?
No, not on this one that is usually a tell of a bad head gasket but not always
@@steamman9193 I haven’t noticed my coolant go into my oil or anything like that. I had it tested by Jeep and they said the block test passed. I also did the combustion test and it looked good to me. But my Jeep keeps rising in temp. So I just used a leak finder pump and the gauge went up like crazy when I started the Jeep. When I accelerated, the Jeep pressure went up super high is this also a sign of a bad head?
@@m9katchm9 what pressure? What temperature?
@@steamman9193 I drained the coolant out to take the thermostat out and put water only to run it without a thermostat.. and it waste any more coolant.
I pumped it to 15-16 psi.. and it rose to 18.. and then 20 when off.. as I accelerated .. I haven’t noticed any loss of coolant
@@m9katchm9 I don’t understand what you are trying to test. Are you losing coolant?
Ok was this actually successful ?
Yes, I had it for about 2 years after the repair. My now x wife got the truck in the divorce and as far as I know she’s still driving it. It’s almost 5 years ago. Don’t know the mileage now
What a pain in the ass! I guess just plan on pulling the timing cover!
I think I’d just throw the whole jeep out. Lol. Looks like a PITA
At he time running it was worth $28,000! Not running a lot less! This was a 2013 depending on mileage could easily still be worth $20k +
Need to have head resurfaced if it got hot. Head gaskets are a temporary fix only
Lol 😆 you really don't need to label anything, It's all plug and play.
If you know where all the wires go you don’t need to watch a RUclips video on how to do it
@@steamman9193 the only wires you need to unplug on that is the ground in the damn injector wires you don't really have to move a lot of that you just zip tie it out of the way and pull the heads I'm a MasterTech for Lithia I get random videos on this because I like watching shit that other people do when I'm bored LOL
how 'bout that. his wife drives a stick shift.
Lol but now she’s the x wife so don’t know how much that skill was worth. She also couldn’t read a temperature gauge 😡
3.6 is a pile of crap no matter what vehicle its in.junk
I agree
I guess you've never owned an Audi
Motor is toast dude
Being this was 4 years ago and it’s still running I’d say you are incorrect