Recharge refrigerant 1 weight 2/ sight glass [bubbles ] 3 / subcool 4/super heat Low side psi is a function of tx valve and evaporater core High side Psi is a function condenser size and cooling fans SYSYTEM MUST BE 100% FULL FOR GOOD COMPRESSOR OIL CIRCUATION
Nice illustration and most appreciated. However, did you take into consideration the added weight of the hose attached to the can? It is going to register on the scale and affect the number computation, No? The can itself weighs grams or within an oz. I am about to do this same job, of replacing my rear expansion valve and perhaps the evaporator on my 2015 Town and Country, due to a leak back there. I have been watching a few videos, to sorta get this procedure down packed. Thanks and keep up the great videos.
Thanks for your feedback! Since the weight of the hose and can are constant, you don't really need to account for those. Just take the starting and end weights. The difference is in the system. Just remember to take starting weight after you've bled the charge line. Also it's a range that you're aiming for e.g., 500 - 550g. I usually work with the higher value to account for any insensible loss.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Thank you.. I wonder if you can elaborate on something. On my 2015 Chrysler town and Country I found that my AC was blowing warm this summer, and I used a single can to sorta feel some cold. But during an inspection of the right rear shock, I looked up and noticed a green liquid coming from the rear expansion valve junction. I now figured why the AC system continued to fail. So I looked into what is involved with this job. You tube videos (including yours) gave me a good perspective on the re-charge part of this job. However, I would first need to open up the rear and inspect for the parts at fault. This I have done. I actually found that the aluminum with rubber O-rings had deteriorated and therefor caused the leak. The Evaporator was like new, so I purchased the expansion valve and O-rings. I purchased an air vacuum pump, manifold gauge/hose set, 2 new Schrader valves, the Pag 46 oil and three 12oz cans of R134a freon. *** My question is more on the replenishment of the amount of pag oil required. Being that this was leaking (I guess) all winter, I have no idea how much oil has escaped. Which begs to ask, "How much pag 46 oil should I add?" My dual air system normally takes 1150g (2.53 lb) of R134a, and about 6oz pag 46 oil. But I don't believe All the oil has leaked out. So I wonder if Anyone has a general rule of thumb, as to if adding 3 or 4oz is fine when having had this type leak and repair? What say ye? Be blessed and encouraged my friend.
Totally not true. Remember that pressures are determined by ambient temperature. See this temperature pressure chart. carcody.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/r134a-low-pressure-chart.jpg At 30o Celsius, you may even have up to 300psi on the high side.
Did customer or you fix the leak before recharge empty system? During recharge, we always keep high side close? On the tiny spy glass window, what do we do if see liquid filling up there?
The system doesnt have a leak. But it's good to fix any leak present. Yes, high side should always be closed. If fluid it filling up the spy glass, you need to reduce the filling rate by closing the valve on the gas a bit.
Oil should always be added except if the refrigerant you have already has oil in it. You always have refrigerant and oil in the system and a leak will discharge both. A cars service manual usually states the amount of oil to be replaced for leak repairs. The manual for the 7th gen Accord states 25mls for leak repairs.
Oil should always be added except if the refrigerant you have already has oil in it. You always have refrigerant and oil in the system and a leak will discharge both. A cars service manual usually states the amount of oil to be replaced for leak repairs. The manual for the 7th gen Accord states 25mls for leak repairs.
I have a 2007 civic hybrid and replacing my evaporator, expansion valve, condenser, and compressor. How much oil should I put and where’s the best way to put it? Does a new compressor comes with the total right amount of oil in it therefore there’s no need to add for the whole system ? Thanks!
There are specific volumes to add when each of those parts are replaced. The new compressor usually comes with the oil, but there's a specific instruction on how drain the old, measure and use this to inform the new one. I don't have it at the top of my head, but just check online for the specs for your model year.
I've seen other people close the valve as if to test the system for leaks. I'm confused. How can it test the system for leaks when the valve closes off the gauge from the system?
The valves close off the system from the service/charge line and vacuum pump. It doesn't close off the gauge from the system. Its correct to close the valves while observing for leaks. If you leave the valves unlocked you'll leave the vacuum pump/line in the mix.
Don't know why I didn't think of this the first time! The link here as well www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Car-air-conditioning/Car-refrigerant-oil-filling-quantities-2114/
can you make a new video explain how to charge via subcool and superheat for example subtracting static temperature and line temperature doing that to the low and high side and comparing weather or not subcool is too high or too low
@@DIYAutoworksNG subcool is your liquid and superheat is your vapor. if your subcool is higher than your superheat than your overcharged --- if the subcool is lower than your superheat then your undercharged the idea is to have subcool and superheat as the same temperature
Thanks for the explanation. I am not really versed with liquid charging and don't have the tools for it yet. My understanding is that charging as liquid is usually done via the high side and these small cans cannot withstand the pressure on the high side of the system.
Are you certain you didn't have some oil left in the lines prior? Either way, I'd just add the recommended amount listed by the manufacturer and recharge (assuming you didn't replace any components).
@@howlingmedia4354 then, you're meant to add the recommended amount of oil volumes specified when replacing those items. I'm guessing you flushed the lines? Another question, did you add the oil before vacuuming? If you did, that could be the reason.
I have two questions: 1. Is vacuum the a/c system really pulls out its original compressor oil? If not, there is no point to add oil back. I think vacuum only pulls out air and moisture. 2. In your very first purge of the yellow hose, there is still air left in the blue hose that is not purged. When you charge the refrigrant, the air in blue hose will go into the system. Why not purge yellow hose and blue hose at the same time by: - Make sure blue service port adapter is close, open blue valve on manifold - Slightly unscrew the connector at the adapter to purge both hoses at the same time.
A good question and observation. 1. Vacuuming doesn't remove the oil from the system, but the leak that preceeded the refill or if a part was changed, will remove some oil from the system. E.g., Honda service manual recommends adding 25mls of ND-8 oil if you are recharging after leak repair. The most important thing is to follow the recommendation from the manufacturer. 2. There isn't any air left in the blue or red lines, remember that the system was vacuumed and vacuuming happened through both the low and high sides when their valves were opened.
Does the magnetic clutch still engage? You didn't overcharge the system right? You may want to hook up a manifold gauge to the system, let's see what the pressures are at.
@@DIYAutoworksNG it was good and cold for a day and yes the clutch engages. I won't have access to the car again until next weekend but I'll put the gauges on it and I'll let you know.
@@DIYAutoworksNG ok so I was just informed by the owner that it starting blowing cold again for a while. They took a half hour trip in the car and it blew cold again. When they drove back it was hot again. So, what do you think about that? Again I don't have access to it until this weekend.
Recharge refrigerant 1 weight 2/ sight glass [bubbles ] 3 / subcool 4/super heat
Low side psi is a function of tx valve and evaporater core
High side Psi is a function condenser size and cooling fans
SYSYTEM MUST BE 100% FULL FOR GOOD COMPRESSOR OIL CIRCUATION
If ist can gave you 190g after weighing {full Wt 383g-193g} how do you expect 340g from second can when both are same size?
Good observation. The first can was not full. I had used part of it for a different job. Net weight of a full can is 340g
Very good! Thanks and good luck!
Thanks mate!
Bigger one is low while thinner one is high
💯
Paylaşım için teşekkürler. Lütfen türkçe alt yazı ekleyebilirmisin.
Thanks for the request. I'll add Turkish.
Nice illustration and most appreciated. However, did you take into consideration the added weight of the hose attached to the can? It is going to register on the scale and affect the number computation, No? The can itself weighs grams or within an oz. I am about to do this same job, of replacing my rear expansion valve and perhaps the evaporator on my 2015 Town and Country, due to a leak back there. I have been watching a few videos, to sorta get this procedure down packed. Thanks and keep up the great videos.
Thanks for your feedback!
Since the weight of the hose and can are constant, you don't really need to account for those. Just take the starting and end weights. The difference is in the system. Just remember to take starting weight after you've bled the charge line. Also it's a range that you're aiming for e.g., 500 - 550g. I usually work with the higher value to account for any insensible loss.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Thank you.. I wonder if you can elaborate on something. On my 2015 Chrysler town and Country I found that my AC was blowing warm this summer, and I used a single can to sorta feel some cold. But during an inspection of the right rear shock, I looked up and noticed a green liquid coming from the rear expansion valve junction. I now figured why the AC system continued to fail. So I looked into what is involved with this job. You tube videos (including yours) gave me a good perspective on the re-charge part of this job. However,
I would first need to open up the rear and inspect for the parts at fault. This I have done. I actually found that the aluminum with rubber O-rings had deteriorated and therefor caused the leak. The Evaporator was like new, so I purchased the expansion valve and O-rings. I purchased an air vacuum pump, manifold gauge/hose set, 2 new Schrader valves, the Pag 46 oil and three 12oz cans of R134a freon.
*** My question is more on the replenishment of the amount of pag oil required. Being that this was leaking (I guess) all winter, I have no idea how much oil has escaped. Which begs to ask, "How much pag 46 oil should I add?" My dual air system normally takes 1150g (2.53 lb) of R134a, and about 6oz pag 46 oil. But I don't believe All the oil has leaked out.
So I wonder if Anyone has a general rule of thumb, as to if adding 3 or 4oz is fine when having had this type leak and repair? What say ye?
Be blessed and encouraged my friend.
High side shouldn't be higher than 250 and low side 35 you did it wrong
Totally not true. Remember that pressures are determined by ambient temperature. See this temperature pressure chart. carcody.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/r134a-low-pressure-chart.jpg
At 30o Celsius, you may even have up to 300psi on the high side.
Measuring 25ml is that point you used your knowledge in medicine as a technician. Well done Chief ✊🏼
😂 😂 😂 Exactly! Had the same thought...
Superb explanation. Thanks
You're welcome
Did customer or you fix the leak before recharge empty system?
During recharge, we always keep high side close?
On the tiny spy glass window, what do we do if see liquid filling up there?
The system doesnt have a leak. But it's good to fix any leak present. Yes, high side should always be closed. If fluid it filling up the spy glass, you need to reduce the filling rate by closing the valve on the gas a bit.
How do I know how much oil to add? No other videos say to add oil unless you change a major component like the compressor or evaporator.
Oil should always be added except if the refrigerant you have already has oil in it. You always have refrigerant and oil in the system and a leak will discharge both. A cars service manual usually states the amount of oil to be replaced for leak repairs. The manual for the 7th gen Accord states 25mls for leak repairs.
Oil should always be added except if the refrigerant you have already has oil in it. You always have refrigerant and oil in the system and a leak will discharge both. A cars service manual usually states the amount of oil to be replaced for leak repairs. The manual for the 7th gen Accord states 25mls for leak repairs.
I have a 2007 civic hybrid and replacing my evaporator, expansion valve, condenser, and compressor. How much oil should I put and where’s the best way to put it? Does a new compressor comes with the total right amount of oil in it therefore there’s no need to add for the whole system ? Thanks!
There are specific volumes to add when each of those parts are replaced. The new compressor usually comes with the oil, but there's a specific instruction on how drain the old, measure and use this to inform the new one. I don't have it at the top of my head, but just check online for the specs for your model year.
Extremely clear and well explained..
Thanks!
You closed the manifold valves,, Your guage held negative pressure, how do you know that your system held negative pressure?
The needle of the gauge went below zero which indicates vacuum. The system should hold the vacuum and not drop if left standing for an hour.
I've seen other people close the valve as if to test the system for leaks. I'm confused.
How can it test the system for leaks when the valve closes off the gauge from the system?
The valves close off the system from the service/charge line and vacuum pump. It doesn't close off the gauge from the system. Its correct to close the valves while observing for leaks. If you leave the valves unlocked you'll leave the vacuum pump/line in the mix.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Thank you for the quick replies. I understand now.
Cheers!
This is very well explained, may God bless you..
But I didn't see the links you promise to give out.
Thanks for the compliment! The links are in the description for the video. Just before comments. Let me know if you don't still see them.
Don't know why I didn't think of this the first time! The link here as well
www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Car-air-conditioning/Car-refrigerant-oil-filling-quantities-2114/
Thanks so much
can you make a new video explain how to charge via subcool and superheat for example subtracting static temperature and line temperature doing that to the low and high side and comparing weather or not subcool is too high or too low
Hi thanks for your comment. Do you mind explaining this a bit further? It's not yet clear to me.
@@DIYAutoworksNG subcool is your liquid and superheat is your vapor. if your subcool is higher than your superheat than your overcharged --- if the subcool is lower than your superheat then your undercharged the idea is to have subcool and superheat as the same temperature
Thanks for the explanation. I am not really versed with liquid charging and don't have the tools for it yet. My understanding is that charging as liquid is usually done via the high side and these small cans cannot withstand the pressure on the high side of the system.
@@DIYAutoworksNG wrong, you always charge on the low side always. its not hard to do ill send you link to a video
@@DIYAutoworksNG ruclips.net/video/fVaM2kAN4s8/видео.html&ab_channel=Chaddz3
Hello, for some reason when I was doing a vacuum on the system, the vacuums oil went into the gauges
Was the system evacuated before vacuuming?
@@DIYAutoworksNG yes, that's what I can figure out
Are you certain you didn't have some oil left in the lines prior? Either way, I'd just add the recommended amount listed by the manufacturer and recharge (assuming you didn't replace any components).
@@DIYAutoworksNG I took it apart completely,lines, evaporator valve, but , I didn't change the condenser.
@@howlingmedia4354 then, you're meant to add the recommended amount of oil volumes specified when replacing those items. I'm guessing you flushed the lines? Another question, did you add the oil before vacuuming? If you did, that could be the reason.
Good video my friend
Thank you 👍
Excellent job!! Keep on.
Many thanks!!!
I have two questions:
1. Is vacuum the a/c system really pulls out its original compressor oil? If not,
there is no point to add oil back. I think vacuum only pulls out air and moisture.
2. In your very first purge of the yellow hose, there is still air left in the blue hose that
is not purged. When you charge the refrigrant, the air in blue hose will go into the system.
Why not purge yellow hose and blue hose at the same time by:
- Make sure blue service port adapter is close, open blue valve on manifold
- Slightly unscrew the connector at the adapter to purge both hoses at the same time.
A good question and observation.
1. Vacuuming doesn't remove the oil from the system, but the leak that preceeded the refill or if a part was changed, will remove some oil from the system. E.g., Honda service manual recommends adding 25mls of ND-8 oil if you are recharging after leak repair. The most important thing is to follow the recommendation from the manufacturer.
2. There isn't any air left in the blue or red lines, remember that the system was vacuumed and vacuuming happened through both the low and high sides when their valves were opened.
I pulled a vaccum, let it hold and showed no leaks. I recharged the system, and it blew cold for one day. What is my problem if there's no leaks
Does the magnetic clutch still engage? You didn't overcharge the system right? You may want to hook up a manifold gauge to the system, let's see what the pressures are at.
@@DIYAutoworksNG it was good and cold for a day and yes the clutch engages. I won't have access to the car again until next weekend but I'll put the gauges on it and I'll let you know.
Okay. Also, be sure to also check the cabin air cleaner element or filter. A clogged filter compromises cooling.
@@DIYAutoworksNG ok so I was just informed by the owner that it starting blowing cold again for a while. They took a half hour trip in the car and it blew cold again. When they drove back it was hot again. So, what do you think about that? Again I don't have access to it until this weekend.
Could be a failing AC clutch relay or the AC clutch itself. Intermittent operation is one of the early signs of final failure.
Nice job 👍 not by wight how much on the gage or psig is the high side an on the low side it shows with those two can of Freon please
Thanks for your comment. I'm trying to understand the question. Can you clarify?
How much in psig the low and the high side show on the gage because I don't have a scale is that clear thanks God bless